Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500: Does yours need time to warm up?
Thanks for the info. I will try the tx gain calibration. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA-500-Does-yours-need-time-to-warm-up-tp6967951p6989465.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Hum on 15 Meters CW
Don, You are right, as usual, that it appears to be from my computer speakers across the room. Thanks again. 73, Mitch -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Hum-on-15-Meters-CW-tp6988831p6990115.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Wallwart for K1
Hello all, This is my first posting to the reflector, after purchasing a used K1-4. First let me say how impressed I am with the receiver. Simply amazing! I am now in the process of learning all abt it because in January, I have the oppertunity to operate portable KH6. My question is, can anyone recommend a wallwart to use with the K. One that is free of birdies. I would prefer a linear supply, but if there is a switcher out there that is lnown to be clean, Im willing to use one. Many thanks and hope to work many Q's as N9HF/KH6 as I can. Dave N9HF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] P3 Speaker Enclosure
Surely I can't be the only one to whom it occurred that the P3 enclosure would be great speaker? Can we buy the housing from Elecraft? Cordially, Bruce J. Howes Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 100 Watt Amp and Tuner - What's Needed?
I've seen more than one K2 with external 100 Watt amp and tuner, could someone tell me how this is done, and exactly what parts I need to order? Thanks! Cordially, Bruce J. Howes Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 100 Watt Amp and Tuner - What's Needed?
Bruce, Go to http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html and you will see all versions of how to do it. You need to order the EC2 enclosure, KPA100 and KAT100-2 unless you have them already. In the base K2, you will need the KIO2 or the substitute detailed in the above document. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 12:49 PM, Bruce J. Howes wrote: I've seen more than one K2 with external 100 Watt amp and tuner, could someone tell me how this is done, and exactly what parts I need to order? Thanks! Cordially, Bruce J. Howes __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] SSB Net on 14.307
__ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart for K1
Dave, Be careful with wallwarts - many of them are unregulated and the output voltage will soar with low current draw. I would suggest a 13.8 volt 3 to 6 amp power supply instead of a wallwart - consider this one from MPJA http://www.mpja.com/138VDC-6A-Benchtop-Power-Supply/productinfo/9323+PS/. An alternative would be a gel cell connected to a smartcharger. The battery will stay topped off and the smartcharger can stay connected to the battery indefinitely. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 11:58 AM, David Linda Kerl wrote: Hello all, This is my first posting to the reflector, after purchasing a used K1-4. First let me say how impressed I am with the receiver. Simply amazing! I am now in the process of learning all abt it because in January, I have the oppertunity to operate portable KH6. My question is, can anyone recommend a wallwart to use with the K. One that is free of birdies. I would prefer a linear supply, but if there is a switcher out there that is lnown to be clean, Im willing to use one. Many thanks and hope to work many Q's as N9HF/KH6 as I can. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart for K1
On 11/13/2011 8:58 AM, David Linda Kerl wrote: Hello all, This is my first posting to the reflector, after purchasing a used K1-4. First let me say how impressed I am with the receiver. Simply amazing! It really is! Rich, NU6T, and I activated Leviathan Peak for SOTA on Field Day this year, I with my K2 and he with his K1. After a couple of hours, I asked if he'd like to trade rigs for awhile ... I'd run a K1 and in fact, had never seen one. What a fun radio! My question is, can anyone recommend a wallwart to use with the K. I would strongly advise against doing this. A number are SMPS designs and can produce a lot of hash [as opposed to discrete birdies which can usually be tolerated]. That, however, is not the real problem. Nearly all are completely unregulated and produce fairly high voltages under light loads despite the label reading 12V. The DC in the label is also usually a lie. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Wallwart
HEY! Thanks to all that replied. The answer was right under my nose, er, fingers. The p.s. for this laptop is ideal. Regulated, 12.5 volts, 2.5 amps. Double duty. There is only so much room in carry-on luggage. On another note. My K1-4 has the KAT1 tuner. I do not have any documentation on its operation, however. Where can I get a copy of it. Mainly, how to use it. Dave N9HF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart
Download the KAT1 manual from the Elecraft website: http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KAT1_man_rev_C.pdf You need pages 11-14 for operation. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- HEY! Thanks to all that replied. The answer was right under my nose, er, fingers. The p.s. for this laptop is ideal. Regulated, 12.5 volts, 2.5 amps. Double duty. There is only so much room in carry-on luggage. On another note. My K1-4 has the KAT1 tuner. I do not have any documentation on its operation, however. Where can I get a copy of it. Mainly, how to use it. Dave N9HF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart for K1
The most recent issue of QEX contains an article that outlines some simple filtering that can be applied to a small switcher to remove the birdies inherent in the class. That said, I don't remember ever seeing a linear power supply in this low-current application, but there are no doubt some...try e.g. Astron -- I have a couple of their larger linear supplies that are very good. It seems unlikely that you can find a wallwart linear, but there are good wallwart-type supplies with filtering...normally used to provide power for higher-end laptop computers. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 11/13/2011 11:58 AM, David Linda Kerl wrote: Hello all, This is my first posting to the reflector, after purchasing a used K1-4. First let me say how impressed I am with the receiver. Simply amazing! I am now in the process of learning all abt it because in January, I have the oppertunity to operate portable KH6. My question is, can anyone recommend a wallwart to use with the K. One that is free of birdies. I would prefer a linear supply, but if there is a switcher out there that is lnown to be clean, Im willing to use one. Many thanks and hope to work many Q's as N9HF/KH6 as I can. Dave N9HF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Raspy audio on ssb on one band
Is this only on one end of the band, high or low, or is it constant across the entire band? On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 10:01 PM, cbscholl sch...@scholl.org wrote: I bought the radio used earlier in the year. I believe that it is sn in late 2000 but it was to factory in 2010 for upgrades. I listened on same antenna with ic-765 and no issues. Are there and settings which are band dependent that could be causing the problem? Barney On Nov 12, 2011, at 9:28 PM, w0mu [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n6989030...@n2.nabble.com wrote: The only distortion I have seen is with the NB on which he said he checked. Is this an early version of the radio? Maybe this is a case of oxidation on the connectors. Only hearing it one band makes this a very interesting problem. Mike W0MU J6M CQ WW DX CW Contest 2011 J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011 W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net On 11/12/2011 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Whoops, I did not catch that on the first reading. I concede and have no easy answers. Even so, the SSB demodulation in the K3 is not band dependent either, so a good look at your antenna system and consideration for the reception of interfering signals from consumer devices are prime candidates for investigation. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/12/2011 9:15 PM, cbscholl wrote: Why would rf feedback be causing an issue on receive? Barney On Nov 12, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft][hidden email] wrote: Barney, The most common cause for problems of that nature is RF feedback in the shack. If you have another receiver, listen to the transmitted audio while the K3 is connected to a dummy load. If there are no problems with that configuration, take a serious look at your antenna system for that troublesome band. There is nothing in the K3 modulation scheme that is band dependent - in other words, if it works OK on one band, it should work well on all bands unless something external to the K3 is causing a problem. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/12/2011 7:34 PM, cbscholl wrote: I believe that I am hearing raspy or slightly distorted audio on receive on my K3. It has current mods. I have noticed the problem only on 15 meters. The other band seem fine. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Barney __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989005.html To unsubscribe from Raspy audio on ssb on one band, click here. See how NAML generates this email -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989022.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989030.html To unsubscribe from Raspy audio on ssb on one band, click here. See how NAML generates this email -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989060.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list:
[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!
NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night! Our November sprint is this coming Wednesday evening local time (8:30-10:30 p.m. E.D.T.), which is Thursday, November 17, 0130-0330z. I will refer you to the proper URL: http://naqcc.info/sprint20.html There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important information. Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE, DX, and if anyone has a 160M gain antenna, a certificate in the GAIN category as well. Prizes: A prize of a set of bug/paddle handles or a K1/K2 knob insert donated by master woodworker Gregg WB8LZG is awarded for each sprint to the winner of a random drawing among all participants. Previous winners are not eligible. This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); but you must use QRP power levels to compete for awards. If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE! Just sign up on the NAQCC website (http://naqcc.info/) and you will receive a handsome certificate, with your membership number which is good for life, plus a starter kit. Come join us and have a real good time! 72/73 de Dave VA3RJ NAQCC #0004 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart for K1
Try www.power-sonic.com Regards, Mike VP8NO On 13/11/2011 16:06, John Ragle wrote: The most recent issue of QEX contains an article that outlines some simple filtering that can be applied to a small switcher to remove the birdies inherent in the class. That said, I don't remember ever seeing a linear power supply in this low-current application, but there are no doubt some...try e.g. Astron -- I have a couple of their larger linear supplies that are very good. It seems unlikely that you can find a wallwart linear, but there are good wallwart-type supplies with filtering...normally used to provide power for higher-end laptop computers. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 11/13/2011 11:58 AM, David Linda Kerl wrote: Hello all, This is my first posting to the reflector, after purchasing a used K1-4. First let me say how impressed I am with the receiver. Simply amazing! I am now in the process of learning all abt it because in January, I have the oppertunity to operate portable KH6. My question is, can anyone recommend a wallwart to use with the K. One that is free of birdies. I would prefer a linear supply, but if there is a switcher out there that is lnown to be clean, Im willing to use one. Many thanks and hope to work many Q's as N9HF/KH6 as I can. Dave N9HF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I was going to install a new Filter before the SS next weekend. I used the proper size Phillips screwdriver. The screws on the case lid came out easily. However one of the two side screws that hold the Stiffener Bar will not break loose. The last time this screw was removed and reinstalled was at the factory. I know it's the right size Phillips. It fit fine in the other screws. But despite trying to bear down on this screw, the Phillips head just slips inside of the screw head. Before it gets round off any more, I thought I'd ask for recommendations. I'd like to be able to install the Filter without damaging the case. Regardless it'll have to be replaced with a regular Ace Hardware SS screw. Thanks .. Dave, W9ZRX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Raspy audio on ssb on one band
I honestly do not know. I have only listened in ssb band. I have listed up at top or down in cq. I will try. Barney On Nov 13, 2011, at 2:42 PM, Guy, K2AV [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n6990641...@n2.nabble.com wrote: Is this only on one end of the band, high or low, or is it constant across the entire band? On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 10:01 PM, cbscholl [hidden email] wrote: I bought the radio used earlier in the year. I believe that it is sn in late 2000 but it was to factory in 2010 for upgrades. I listened on same antenna with ic-765 and no issues. Are there and settings which are band dependent that could be causing the problem? Barney On Nov 12, 2011, at 9:28 PM, w0mu [via Elecraft] [hidden email] wrote: The only distortion I have seen is with the NB on which he said he checked. Is this an early version of the radio? Maybe this is a case of oxidation on the connectors. Only hearing it one band makes this a very interesting problem. Mike W0MU J6M CQ WW DX CW Contest 2011 J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011 W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net On 11/12/2011 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Whoops, I did not catch that on the first reading. I concede and have no easy answers. Even so, the SSB demodulation in the K3 is not band dependent either, so a good look at your antenna system and consideration for the reception of interfering signals from consumer devices are prime candidates for investigation. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/12/2011 9:15 PM, cbscholl wrote: Why would rf feedback be causing an issue on receive? Barney On Nov 12, 2011, at 8:46 PM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft][hidden email] wrote: Barney, The most common cause for problems of that nature is RF feedback in the shack. If you have another receiver, listen to the transmitted audio while the K3 is connected to a dummy load. If there are no problems with that configuration, take a serious look at your antenna system for that troublesome band. There is nothing in the K3 modulation scheme that is band dependent - in other words, if it works OK on one band, it should work well on all bands unless something external to the K3 is causing a problem. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/12/2011 7:34 PM, cbscholl wrote: I believe that I am hearing raspy or slightly distorted audio on receive on my K3. It has current mods. I have noticed the problem only on 15 meters. The other band seem fine. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Barney __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989005.html To unsubscribe from Raspy audio on ssb on one band, click here. See how NAML generates this email -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989022.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Raspy-audio-on-ssb-on-one-band-tp6988925p6989030.html To unsubscribe from Raspy audio on ssb on one band, click here. See how NAML generates this email -- View this message in context:
Re: [Elecraft] Wallwart
Dave wrote: The p.s. for this laptop is ideal. Regulated, 12.5 volts, 2.5 amps. Double duty. There is only so much room in carry-on luggage. Does it have a coaxial DC power plug of the proper size and wiring polarity that allows it to serve either the computer or the K1 without a home-made adapter? Another thing to test whenever you're trying a small DC power supply of unknown internal configuration is the RF noise that it generates. I'm not speaking only of the garbage that comes from most switcher supplies at various frequencies. The power supply for my Samsung cell phone generates a very **broadband** noise across several HF ham bands when the supply is plugged in to the phone for charging. With no load, there is no noise. It pays to test several such conditions. For which bands is your K1 built? Right now band conditions are proving something that I have always claimed as the best of the features of the non-DDS K1 which the KX1 and other simple DDS-based QRP rigs can not offer ...coverage of 15 meters! That's a fantastic QRP band when it is open, which it has been frequently during the past few weeks. It should only get better over the next few years. Congratulations on your K1. 73, Mike / KK5F K1 Serial 175 (November 2000) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
Dave Zeph wrote: I was going to install a new Filter before the SS next weekend. I used the proper size Phillips screwdriver. The screws on the case lid came out easily. However one of the two side screws that hold the Stiffener Bar will not break loose. I've done that a few times! Unscrew all the remaining screws on the side panel. Then carefully rotate the entire panel slightly counterclockwise about the locked screw. This should remove some tension on the screw so you can then remove it with the screwdriver. If you had 2 locked screws on a panel this method would not work. I've since learned to be very careful when tightening the screws! 73 GL! Bill -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Overtighted-Case-Screw-Removal-tp6990655p6990702.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (OT) EFHW Vertical Antenna (Mike Morrow)
Stan and group, I found this post and referenced video very interesting. However I am bothered by several things. First, a multi-band antenna cannot be a “end-fed half wave” on all bands. only on one band, as far as I know. I’ve read many articles about “end-fed half wave” antennas over the years, and they have always been single band antennas with special matching circuits to tune them, and most have agreed that when they are a half wave on the frequency used, a counterpoise or radial is not required. Which leads me to question the statement that a counterpoise or radial other than maybe a one meter or less one is required for this antenna. A 30’ antenna will only be a half wave near 20 meters, what happens on the rest of the bands? I know that sometimes using 5 watts or less, you might not notice a hot chassis or RF floating around, but, what is going to happen when you load this antenna with 100 watts? I would appreciate hearing from others and what they think about the questions I have raised. 73, Bill, k6mgo __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (OT) EFHW Vertical Antenna (Mike Morrow)
Bill - and group! I sure wish I had the brains and experience to answer these questions but I don't. My expertise lies in other fields. When they named us amateurs they must have meant me ;). Hopefully, other listers with deeper technical knowledge will comment. I can only address my actual experiences. I can tell you is that this antenna WORKS GREAT if the measure of *success* is a practical one -- how many QSOs can I make, can I hold a QSO for more than the usual (unfortunately) 30 seconds it takes to get a 599 and a TU, and are my rig's finals happy. Most of all, can I add new countries to my list? What my video shows is an end-fed (i.e. awful high impedance!) vertical piece of wire that uses its coax feedline's shield for the small current return at this impedance (as I *think* I understand it). Above this halfwave, it works better than below. So yes, it most certainly is *only* a halfwave antenna for 20 meters. But I've worked DX with it on 30 and 40 meters also. On 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10 it's super - practically speaking. Bill, my station at home is grounded to a *real* cold water pipe; I don't have any RF floating around at home. Touching my rig produces none of the usual indications of floating RF. When I brought it to Tony's house for the video, it was not grounded. Still didn't exhibit any bad habits. I sure didn't mean to cause any controversy and I never intended to suggest that *my* antenna is something special - rather, it is an effective and far less costly alternative to the many commercial portable antennas that so many hams turn to when they decide to try away-from-home operating or, like me, they face rather severe antenna restrictions. I don't mean to impugn the many commercial products out there. I happen to own an HFp vertical and it's a good portable antenna that fits in an 18 nylon bag. If I'm going somewhere on an airplane, that's what I'd pack! But if I want to operate closer to home - or, in my case - I want an alternative to the 44' non-resonant doublet in my attic which is oriented East-West, I can just push this vertical solution up in about 30 seconds and have fabulous success with it. 73 to all and to all a good night (hey, Christmas is around the corner ;) Stan WB2LQF On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 3:47 PM, Bill Ross wrote: Stan and group, I found this post and referenced video very interesting. However I am bothered by several things. First, a multi-band antenna cannot be a “end-fed half wave” on all bands. only on one band, as far as I know. I’ve read many articles about “end-fed half wave” antennas over the years, and they have always been single band antennas with special matching circuits to tune them, and most have agreed that when they are a half wave on the frequency used, a counterpoise or radial is not required. Which leads me to question the statement that a counterpoise or radial other than maybe a one meter or less one is required for this antenna. A 30’ antenna will only be a half wave near 20 meters, what happens on the rest of the bands? I know that sometimes using 5 watts or less, you might not notice a hot chassis or RF floating around, but, what is going to happen when you load this antenna with 100 watts? I would appreciate hearing from others and what they think about the questions I have raised. 73, Bill, k6mgo __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd: Belated CW Net Reports
Original Message Subject:Belated CW Net Reports Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:26:39 -0800 From: kevinr kev...@coho.net To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Good Afternoon, A few rainy days have kept me inside. This was a good time to catch up with logging into the database and writing this report. Now to get the last six done so I am completely done with the reports. Then I can spend some time this winter as the snow blows around the house getting the database repaired from the crash of about a year ago. Too much to do and too little time. Now to split more wood and get the bills paid before today's first net. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) Elecraft CW Net Report for October 16th 17th, 2011 On 14050 kHz at 2200z: NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820 K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183 KN5L - John - TX - K2 - 7212 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241 KB3FBR - Joe - PA - K2 - 6178 On 7045.5 kHz at 0100z: N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 KN5L - John - TX - K2 - 7212 AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241 NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820 KS4L - Randy - AL - K2 - 337 Elecraft CW Net Report for October 23rd 24th, 2011 On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z: K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183 NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820 AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170 K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642 WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K2 - 1392 K6HTN - Kate - CA - K3 - 5252 KN5L - John - TX - K3 - 4448 KG6IRW - David - CA - K3 - 4982 On 7045 kHz at 0100z: W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183 K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686 KG6IRW - David - CA - K3 - 4982 Elecraft CW Net Report for October 30th 31st, 2011 On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z: K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686 W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139 N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345 AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642 AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241 On 7045.5 kHz at 0100z: KN5L - John - TX - K3 - 4448 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345 AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170 N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994 AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457 AC0E - Jim - KS - K3 - 674 W9XC - Leslie - IL - K3 - 3947 - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FS: Alberto Frattini Pro Bug
Bug has been sold. Thanks, Rick K7MW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822. 822 was fine, but with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times. I sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together! Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. de Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
Backward drill bit? Would that be an Easy Out? Kevin. KD5ONS On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822. 822 was fine, but with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times. I sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together! Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. de Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
No, there are actually left-hand drill bits for certain specialty operations. This would be one of them ;-) I can testify that left-hand drills and left-hand taps should be securely locked up in the shop lest they vex the unwary - hehe. 73, geo - n4ua On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 5:44 PM, kevinr kev...@coho.net wrote: Backward drill bit? Would that be an Easy Out? Kevin. KD5ONS On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822. 822 was fine, but with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times. I sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together! Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. de Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (OT) EFHW Vertical Antenna (Mike Morrow)
Bill, you are absolutely right - a radiator of a given size is 1/2 wavelength long on only one frequency. There are two reasons for providing an RF ground for any end fed antenna: 1) To minimize the RF currents induced in the earth which cause loss. 2) To keep the RF voltage on the rig's enclosures and ancillary equipment low. Reason 1) is really critical when a short radiator is used - 1/4 wavelength or less - because such radiators have a low impedance, hence a relatively large RF current flows into the radiator and into the RF ground system. The RF power is divided between the antenna and ground, with the larger resistance consuming the most RF power. So a poor, high resistance (impedance) ground working with a low impedance antenna will see most of the RF power consumed in the RF ground. It's not unusual for a short antenna with a poor ground to have less than 5% or the RF radiated and 95% consumed in ground loss. With a given ground system, the losses can be reduced by raising the feed point impedance of the radiator because that also reduces the current flowing into the RF ground system. An easy way to do that is to make the radiator 1/2 wavelength long. Such an antenna can easily be more than 90% efficient even with a minimal ground system. Such antennas are often called 'ground independent' but, like most things, that's only partly true. There is the issue of losses near the antenna caused by RF currents induced in the ground by the RF current in the antenna. However, a 1/2 wave vertical already has the high-current area of the radiator raised 1/4 wavelength above the ground, so the coupling to the earth is much, much less than a 1/4 wavelength or shorter monopole that has its feed point (and highest current point) right at ground level. Reason 2) applies to any antenna that brings a voltage loop (high RF voltage point) to the rig. Usually some sort of RF ground system is needed when feeding a 1/2 wavelength radiator for this purpose. But it doesn’t have to be much. A cold water pipe connection or a single 1/4 wave radial will do (and the radial will not radiate significantly because very little RF current flows into it). The extreme high impedance found at the end of a 1/2 wavelength antenna or the extreme low impedance found at the end of a 1/4 or shorter antenna never occur at longer lengths. The impedance continues to shift up and down every 1/4 wavelength, but without the extreme values. So such true long wire antennas are less dependent upon a really good RF ground system and, with a suitable matching network, work extremely well over a very wide range of frequencies. I have a half wave end fed inverted L on 80 meters, and it works extremely well up through 10 meters. (It loads on 6, but I haven't tried it there yet.) Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Stan and group, I found this post and referenced video very interesting. However I am bothered by several things. First, a multi-band antenna cannot be a “end-fed half wave” on all bands. only on one band, as far as I know. I’ve read many articles about “end-fed half wave” antennas over the years, and they have always been single band antennas with special matching circuits to tune them, and most have agreed that when they are a half wave on the frequency used, a counterpoise or radial is not required. Which leads me to question the statement that a counterpoise or radial other than maybe a one meter or less one is required for this antenna. A 30’ antenna will only be a half wave near 20 meters, what happens on the rest of the bands? I know that sometimes using 5 watts or less, you might not notice a hot chassis or RF floating around, but, what is going to happen when you load this antenna with 100 watts? I would appreciate hearing from others and what they think about the questions I have raised. 73, Bill, k6mgo __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] NB and NR algorhythm
No nit I have with the K3 is the Noise Blanker and Noise Reduction algorithm . Is there any possibility of making these features more linear so that by holding down the NB or NR buttons one could adjust them in a linear, ie . 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 etc. manner, like is done in the FT5000. If the NB and NR features could be improved I might use them. As it is now I hardly ever do. How about it Wayne and Lyle, is this something you could do in firmware change to the DSP in the K3? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBACK wrote: So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. It's called an Easy-Out and it's a rather brute force procedure, drilling and tapping a pilot hole in the screw. I hate to do that in any screw smaller than 1/4 inch diameter! If the problem is that there isn't enough torque to loosen the screw and the screwdriver rides out of the groove(s), there are compounds (one brand is Gitta Grip), a paste that when applied in very small quantities to the tip of the screwdriver will keep it in the groove(s) and permit more torque to be applied to loosen a reluctant screw. A small container goes a very long way. Search for it on the 'web - it's hard to find at retail. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
EZ outs? Mike W0MU J6M CQ WW DX CW Contest 2011 J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011 W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net On 11/13/2011 3:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822. 822 was fine, but with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times. I sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together! Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. de Doug KR2Q __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I had this happen once and was stuck because it wasn't in a place that permitted removing all the other screws and rotating the panel, so I simply drilled the screw out. It's very simple and doesn't damage the threads or panel with the flat head screws used in the K3 and subsequent Elecraft gear. I used a drill bit the same diameter as the shaft of the screw. The cross grooves in the head hold it centered nicely. Drill slowly and suddenly the head of the screw will fall off, freeing the panel. Then you can remove the threaded screw shaft with your fingers - it will no longer be jammed (unless it was cross-threaded when it was put in). Done carefully, there is no damage to the panel or the threaded hole. Now all you need is a replacement screw. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 3:45 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal? On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBACK wrote: So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels). Worst case, you can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they are really called) and take it out that way. I did not need to do that. It's called an Easy-Out and it's a rather brute force procedure, drilling and tapping a pilot hole in the screw. I hate to do that in any screw smaller than 1/4 inch diameter! If the problem is that there isn't enough torque to loosen the screw and the screwdriver rides out of the groove(s), there are compounds (one brand is Gitta Grip), a paste that when applied in very small quantities to the tip of the screwdriver will keep it in the groove(s) and permit more torque to be applied to loosen a reluctant screw. A small container goes a very long way. Search for it on the 'web - it's hard to find at retail. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] (OT) EFHW Vertical Antenna (Mike Morrow)
I've been using a EFHWA vertical for a couple years now as a portable antenna for 20, 30 and 40 meters. It is 33 ft tall and supported by the MFJ fiberglass pole. It uses a small, tapped inductor located about 6 feet from each end to provide electrical half wave length on 30 and 40 meters. The coils are shorted for 20 meters. The only downside is you have to pull the antenna down to change bands. The matching network is a tuned tank using a toroid wound coil and air variable. The tank circuit is matched to 50 ohm coax using a secondary winding with several taps. Full credit goes to N0LX for the design and construction details ( http://www.n0lx.com/efhwa.html ). I usually use it with a short (10 ft) counterpoise wire and about 10-15 ft of coax to the rig. I suppose a bead style choke balun could be used on the coax but I've never noticed problems with RF at the tranceiver I typically run 5 - 15 watts into the antenna. YMMV Brian K0DTJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I agree on the (phillips) screwdriver tips. They sneak up on you and you don't realize that they are rounded off. What I have done for another alternate is to take a dremmel cut off disc, the thinnest one and carefully cut a tiny groove across the head of the screw after first sticking down two small strips of duct tape on both sides of the screw for protection. Just a tiny slot is all that is needed, then take a flat blade screwdriver and try to back it out. First I (gently) tap the screwdriver head with a small hammer (gently) this helps loosen the interface between the steel screw thread and the aluminum. If you have a new phillips screwdriver you might try the (gentle) tap then turn approach first and see what happens. Good luck, I know it is frustrating ! Thumbs up on the drop of oil on the screw threads too !!! Bob K6UJ On Nov 13, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
Rapid cooling of the screw may also help. You don't need to go out and buy some freeze spray if you have a can of dry air aerosol dust remover. Turn the can upside down, using an extender tip that often comes with contact cleaner or aerosol lubricants, and try to limit the spray to the screw. Turned upside down the can releases the liquid propellent which is about as good as freeze spray. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
I've found a little dab of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip works wonders working on aircraft parts. Jim K5AUP In a message dated 11/13/2011 9:37:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, k...@pacbell.net writes: I agree on the (phillips) screwdriver tips. They sneak up on you and you don't realize that they are rounded off. What I have done for another alternate is to take a dremmel cut off disc, the thinnest one and carefully cut a tiny groove across the head of the screw after first sticking down two small strips of duct tape on both sides of the screw for protection. Just a tiny slot is all that is needed, then take a flat blade screwdriver and try to back it out. First I (gently) tap the screwdriver head with a small hammer (gently) this helps loosen the interface between the steel screw thread and the aluminum. If you have a new phillips screwdriver you might try the (gentle) tap then turn approach first and see what happens. Good luck, I know it is frustrating ! Thumbs up on the drop of oil on the screw threads too !!! Bob K6UJ On Nov 13, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
Another almost miraculous chemical fix for such problems is to get your hands on a can of Kano Kroil. (See details at http://www.kanolabs.com/). This stuff is flat-out unbelievable. I used it for many years to loosen stubbornly rusted and/or galled antenna hardware and it never failed to do the job. It used to be hard for civilians to get, but my dad was a maintenance mechanic at an Alcoa Aluminum rolling mill and he got me a can or three. That was around 30 years ago, and I still have most of one can left. I see now that you can buy it directly from the company's web site. It ain't cheap, but it's the best thing going. 73... Randy, W8FN Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics. Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then try it on the screwhead. OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip and cement the tip to the screw. One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of damaging something if it slips off. And wear eye protection, most of the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a projectile. I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and getting started backing out. Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise enough to loosen it. Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out the centre of the screw and remove the remains. In cases where the screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this usually does. There is very very high risk of drilling off square though and damaging the original threads. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA100 question
I know its possible but just to verify could the d16 and 17 chem ok and be bad? Im getting high power and current which from the archives suggests them but they chk about 380 ohms. The q1 and q2 are ok. Works fine below 10 watts. Thanks Mark T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
As I reported earlier, I found that this is quite easy to do because the cross point slots make a well-centered starting point. I used a Dremel tool that was easy to hold. You don't need to get anywhere near the threads. The flat head of the screw will come loose the moment the drill bit has passed through it and long before it's anywhere near the threads behind the panel. The big thing is to use a drill bit that is the same diameter as the screw shaft. You don't want to open up the hole in the panel. That would allow screws to bottom out against what's behind the panel and never tighten against the panel itself. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out the centre of the screw and remove the remains. In cases where the screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this usually does. There is very very high risk of drilling off square though and damaging the original threads. Ron VE8RT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 question
Mark, The real answer is YES. Measure your actual power when the power request is set to 5 watts - if it is really 12 watts or more, then that is an indication that the power control is not working, and the KPA100 wattmeter diodes are the first suspects. 380 ohms is much lower than normal, but that depends a lot on your ohmmeter. They should measure low in one direction (normally about 3K) and quite high (about 43k) in the other direction. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 9:52 PM, Mark Flavin wrote: I know its possible but just to verify could the d16 and 17 chem ok and be bad? Im getting high power and current which from the archives suggests them but they chk about 380 ohms. The q1 and q2 are ok. Works fine below 10 watts. Thanks Mark T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 question
When the tuner comes out will it be internal to the KPA500 or will it be an outboard unit like the P3? I am getting ready to order a KPA500 and want to know if I should wait. If the tuner is inside the KPA case I will wait and order it all at once but if it is an outboard unit then it makes no difference when I order the amp. Joe K2UF No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons were inconvenienced. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question
The KAT500 is external to the KPA500. It will have the same footprint as the KPA500 and K3, but is very low profile and will sit nicely on top of either unit. 73, Lyle KK7P When the tuner comes out will it be internal to the KPA500 or will it be an outboard unit... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (11/13/11)
We had a good net with generally strong signal levels. A net on 14.304 MHz caused us to move to 14.307 MHz, which worked out fine. We had 26 participants over a 26 minute period. Discussions were on a new S-meter command and IF overload in a multi-single contest scenario. Have a great week. Here is the list of participants. Station NameQTH Rig S/N KA0NCR Arnie NE K3 185 WO1IDickMA K3 911 N1YXIgorMA K3 4653 K6LMP Lou CA K3 3805QRP K6DSW Don CA K3 3138 W5IQS EvanTX K2 1920QRP W4PFM PaulVA K3 1673 KD8KJS Steve CA Alnico K5LAD Jim OK K3 1068 W9EJB Ed IN K3 1593 NJ6GDennis CA K3 5717 WB9JNZ EricIL K3 4017 W8OVDaveTX K3 3139 K1ZWLarry NC K3 5185 KE5EFY Dwayne TX K3 5287 KC5RY George TX K3 5208 N6JWJohnCA K3 936 K2UFJoe NY K3 5057 W4RKS Jim AL K3 3618 KE5RBS Kelvin AR K2 7162QRP AB8YK Jim OH K3 5269 KH6TE Daryl HI K3 1962 KJ6CBS DaveCA K3 4052QRP KG0KP Jim MO K3 1442 K7KBJ Ken NV FT301D NS7PPhilOR K3 1826 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?
If it's tight enough to require this much intervention and compenstion, just drill off all of the screw heads and replace the 2-D block and the countersunk screws. Don't panic. You're not dealing with a relic, it's a modern ham rig. Any part(s) can be replaced easily, and Elecraft support for problems like this is excellent. After this much discussion I have little doubt Elecraft tech support would not send the replacement parts to you gratis in an envelope pretty quick-quick. They almost always do this. It is Their Way. 73, matt W6NIA On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:50:27 -0700, you wrote: While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics. Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then try it on the screwhead. OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip and cement the tip to the screw. One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of damaging something if it slips off. And wear eye protection, most of the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a projectile. I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and getting started backing out. Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise enough to loosen it. Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out the centre of the screw and remove the remains. In cases where the screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this usually does. There is very very high risk of drilling off square though and damaging the original threads. Ron VE8RT On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: I would like to add 2 things. First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. I replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 months. Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out the screwhead. When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain tools will cause you headaches in the long run. Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not expand at the same rate. A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in will allow the screw to be removed. That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the past 50 years. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote: Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block came off with the side panel. I then used a traditional pliers to undo the block. So like I said, no way I made it that tight originally. Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws? LOL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] SDR-IF and I/Q questions
I didn't get any responses to my questions asking for info about those who were successfully running SDR-IF software on a par with a P3, or from those who were not successful. I did not find any ground loops in my system, and I still do not know why some SDR-IF programs run with mirrored images and a few do not. IMHO, those that do not have mirrored images with my computer, are not on par with a P3. So, I am moving on to other things. I have decided that, at my age, life is too short for SDR. I am greatly disappointed to learn that the KX3 will not accept a P3. Richard Fjeld, n0ce rpfj...@embarqmail.com I'd rather be learning. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
