Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Gary Hunt
K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB, 
and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say any 
other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're bragging up 
our K3s.lol.
 
73
 
Gary
KC9EE
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Edward R Cole

George,

You do not say what power you are transmitting and it would be 
helpful to know the separation between the antennas. Will the 
vertical be as high as the yagi?  Need to know what frequency is used.


OK, in lieu of this data I will make some assumptions and show you 
the math to calculate the power received.

F = 3.5-MHz
Po = 100w = 50 dBm
separation = 60 feet = 18.3m
cross-pol loss = 20 dB (it will not be quite this much at this close 
separation)

L = 32.4 + 20 Log F + 20 Log d, where F= MHz and d= km
L = the space loss between antenna, in dB
L = 32.4 +20 Log (3.5) + 20 Log (18.3/1000)
L = 32.4 + 10.9 - 5
L = 38 dB
Ltot = L + Lcross-pol = 58 dB
Po - Ltot = -8 dBm

That is a very strong signal but will not hurt the 
receiver.  Typically anything under 0 dBm is safe.  I run 1500w and 
have a preamp attached to the TR coax relay and have had no problems 
blowing up the very sensitive transistor in the preamp if the relay 
isolation is equal to the power in dBm.


Now cross-pol loss is probably not 20 dB but more like 15 dB and your 
antennas are in near-field so these formula are not quite 
accurate.  Ideally you would measure the power on the receiving 
antenna with a milliwatt power meter but I suppose you do not have 
one.  Also I did not include antenna gains in this, but in close 
proximity they are probably not accurate.


I have tested my tower mounted preamp by sending a test signal to an 
antenna about 130-foot away and using the space loss formula pretty 
accurately predicted received signal level.  This let me test the 
preamp sensitivity without removing it from the tower.


If you have a scope look at the received RF signal and measure the 
peak voltage.

P = E^2*R or
E = sq-rt (P/50)
P = 0 dBm = 0.001w
sq-rt(0.001/50) = .004v

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS: If you run more than 100w then either short the receiver antenna 
line or use a coax relay to disconnect it when transmitting.



Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 23:36:09 +
From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Message-ID:
040f2ec01a53458babf11914164d5...@server.thorntonmostullaw.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that 
barely fits on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical 
as a second HF antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be 
pretty close to the Yagi.


I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on 
each channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any 
danger of overloading and frying the other receiver?



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Ralf Wilhelm
Hi George,

The 130 feet corresponds to lambda/2 on 80 and you can use the far field 
approximation (that Ed is using) there...

At short distances (less than a quarter or a sixth of the wavelength), however, 
1/r^2 and 1/r^3 (near field) components of E and H fields are still present 
(or dominant) and the far field approximation should not be used. You also have 
to be careful with the cross-polarization argument, since the electrical near 
field has all three vector components almost anywhere in space and the coupling 
can be much higher (depending on how well symmetry is preserved in the 
yagi+vertical system). 

Better use a NEC based program (e.g. EZNEC or the free 4nec2), if you have on 
access to a milliwatt-meter/scope and have to calculate...

By the way, P should read 
P= E*I = E^2/R 
=  E=sqrt(P*R)=223mV 
for a 0dBm (S9+67dB) signal (?)


Greetings 

Ralf, DL6OAP


 

Am 12.02.2014 um 10:31 schrieb Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net:

 George,
 
 You do not say what power you are transmitting and it would be helpful to 
 know the separation between the antennas. Will the vertical be as high as the 
 yagi?  Need to know what frequency is used.
 
 OK, in lieu of this data I will make some assumptions and show you the math 
 to calculate the power received.
 F = 3.5-MHz
 Po = 100w = 50 dBm
 separation = 60 feet = 18.3m
 cross-pol loss = 20 dB (it will not be quite this much at this close 
 separation)
 L = 32.4 + 20 Log F + 20 Log d, where F= MHz and d= km
 L = the space loss between antenna, in dB
 L = 32.4 +20 Log (3.5) + 20 Log (18.3/1000)
 L = 32.4 + 10.9 - 5
 L = 38 dB
 Ltot = L + Lcross-pol = 58 dB
 Po - Ltot = -8 dBm
 
 That is a very strong signal but will not hurt the receiver.  Typically 
 anything under 0 dBm is safe.  I run 1500w and have a preamp attached to the 
 TR coax relay and have had no problems blowing up the very sensitive 
 transistor in the preamp if the relay isolation is equal to the power in dBm.
 
 Now cross-pol loss is probably not 20 dB but more like 15 dB and your 
 antennas are in near-field so these formula are not quite accurate.  Ideally 
 you would measure the power on the receiving antenna with a milliwatt power 
 meter but I suppose you do not have one.  Also I did not include antenna 
 gains in this, but in close proximity they are probably not accurate.
 
 I have tested my tower mounted preamp by sending a test signal to an antenna 
 about 130-foot away and using the space loss formula pretty accurately 
 predicted received signal level.  This let me test the preamp sensitivity 
 without removing it from the tower.
 
 If you have a scope look at the received RF signal and measure the peak 
 voltage.
 P = E^2*R or
 E = sq-rt (P/50)
 P = 0 dBm = 0.001w
 sq-rt(0.001/50) = .004v
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 PS: If you run more than 100w then either short the receiver antenna line or 
 use a coax relay to disconnect it when transmitting.
 
 
 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 23:36:09 +
 From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
 To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 Message-ID:
040f2ec01a53458babf11914164d5...@server.thorntonmostullaw.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 This might be a stupid question, but here goes.
 
 I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
 on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
 antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.
 
 I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
 channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
 overloading and frying the other receiver?
 
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Jeff Griffin
Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)

73 Jeff kb2m

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB,
and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say
any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
bragging up our K3s.lol.
 
73
 
Gary
KC9EE

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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Gary Hunt
I seem to have the same issue. 

73

Gary
KC9EE

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Dennis Griffin
Funny that Elecraft is the only amateur radio mfr I know of whose sick radios 
don't need a trip to the service center to be made well again.

73 de Dennis KD7CAC
Scottsdale, AZ

On Feb 12, 2014, at 4:49 AM, Gary Hunt kc...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I seem to have the same issue. 
 
 73
 
 Gary
 KC9EE
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread George Danner
Good advice:
I use wire antennas for 40m  80m with a HexBeam for the higher bands  a 
5BTV vertical. My sub-receiver is connected to a 50' vertical wire. The 
vertical wire is about 20' (horizontally) from the wire antennas and about 
30' from the 5BTV and HexBeam
When I installed the KPA500 I did the same test starting at 10 watts on 80m 
through 10m. I found that there was enough isolation on all antennas to 
leave the sub-receiver connected. I use the sub-receiver for diversity and 
would miss that feature.
George

--
From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @ 
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing 
the vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more 
power out of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you 
can find your answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of 
fun.  Maybe you will too!

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
overloading and frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread George Danner
Good advice:
I use wire antennas for 40m  80m with a HexBeam for the higher bands  a 
5BTV vertical. My sub-receiver is connected to a 50' vertical wire. The 
vertical wire is about 20' (horizontally) from the wire antennas and about 
30' from the 5BTV and HexBeam
When I installed the KPA500 I did the same test starting at 10 watts on 80m 
through 10m. I found that there was enough isolation on all antennas to 
leave the sub-receiver connected. I use the sub-receiver for diversity and 
would miss that feature.
George

--
From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @ 
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing 
the vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more 
power out of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you 
can find your answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of 
fun.  Maybe you will too!

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
overloading and frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH

Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?

Admittedly, we hams have our jargon, but lets limit our foray's into today's 
POP culture terminology as much as we can.


Are we kool with that?  Groovy !

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Griffin k...@comcast.net

To: 'Gary Hunt' kc...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!


Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)

73 Jeff kb2m

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB,
and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say
any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
bragging up our K3s.lol.

73

Gary
KC9EE

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread JeremyJones
With Q7/Q8 removed, the resistance from the Collector solder pad to ground on
both is 70 ohms.

Doing a Tune with Q7/Q8 removed results in 1.0V on the Base pads and a Low
P on the display.  I do have the KAT2 installed, just in case this makes a
difference.  This was done into a dummy load.

The antenna that I normally run is an 80m Carolina Windom strung up between
a tree in my front yard to a tree in my backyard.  I have no additional
grounding to it, just the baluns that are part of the normal antenna design. 
I am very cautious of lightning in the summer, and leave the antennas
disconnected when not using the radio, however given that its winter here
and sub zero temperatures, I didn't worry about it.  I had never heard of
static caused by the wind.  What is a good way to protect against this?

Thanks,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Won-t-power-on-tp7584083p7584107.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Keith Heimbold
I agree the K3 is one sick piece of gear! It is also so killer!

Keith
AK6ZZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

 On Feb 12, 2014, at 5:57 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:
 
 Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?
 
 Admittedly, we hams have our jargon, but lets limit our foray's into today's 
 POP culture terminology as much as we can.
 
 Are we kool with that?  Groovy !
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Jeff Griffin k...@comcast.net
 To: 'Gary Hunt' kc...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:44 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!
 
 
 Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)
 
 73 Jeff kb2m
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
 Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!
 
 K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB,
 and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say
 any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
 bragging up our K3s.lol.
 
 73
 
 Gary
 KC9EE
 
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Rich
But the King's English is not what is spoken in America, or in much of 
the world.  The guiding reference The King's English was printed in 
1906, some 20 years before the production of Modern English Usage in 
the 1920s almost 100 years ago.  American English  has evolved some 
since then. International or Business English has also evolved.


Sick meaning good has been in use since the 1980s and a roughly 
similar meaning was around in the 1920s.


Wouldn't it be terrible if ham radio was associated with Pop culture.  
Oh my!  You might have to deal with young people!  You know, like those 
in their 60s.


Grin

Rich
NU6T

On 2/12/2014 5:55 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?

Admittedly, we hams have our jargon, but lets limit our foray's into 
today's POP culture terminology as much as we can.


Are we kool with that?  Groovy !

73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - From: Jeff Griffin k...@comcast.net
To: 'Gary Hunt' kc...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!


Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)

73 Jeff kb2m

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 
40CW/SSB,
and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to 
say

any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
bragging up our K3s.lol.

73

Gary
KC9EE

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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Keith Heimbold
The K3 is money!

Keith
AK6ZZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

 On Feb 12, 2014, at 6:19 AM, Rich reh...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
 
 But the King's English is not what is spoken in America, or in much of the 
 world.  The guiding reference The King's English was printed in 1906, some 
 20 years before the production of Modern English Usage in the 1920s almost 
 100 years ago.  American English  has evolved some since then. 
 International or Business English has also evolved.
 
 Sick meaning good has been in use since the 1980s and a roughly similar 
 meaning was around in the 1920s.
 
 Wouldn't it be terrible if ham radio was associated with Pop culture.  Oh my! 
  You might have to deal with young people!  You know, like those in their 60s.
 
 Grin
 
 Rich
 NU6T
 
 On 2/12/2014 5:55 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
 Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?
 
 Admittedly, we hams have our jargon, but lets limit our foray's into today's 
 POP culture terminology as much as we can.
 
 Are we kool with that?  Groovy !
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Jeff Griffin k...@comcast.net
 To: 'Gary Hunt' kc...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 6:44 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!
 
 
 Will someone please pass me the coolade so I can comment :-)
 
 73 Jeff kb2m
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Hunt
 Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:23 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!
 
 K3 7956 is sick enough to score FT5ZM on 17CW/SSB, 20CW/SSB, 30CW, 40CW/SSB,
 and 80CW, with 100w, inverted L and a cobwebb. Of course that's not to say
 any other 100watt radio wouldn't have worked them also but since we're
 bragging up our K3s.lol.
 
 73
 
 Gary
 KC9EE
 
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[Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread DGB
I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the 
OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off. 
I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.


What do I need to look for?

73 Dwight NS9I
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

70 ohms is too low on the +12 volt power line, you should see a large 
capacitor charging and the resistance should climb if all is normal.
1 volt on the base during a TUNE is too high, so plan to replace Q11 and 
Q13 - they are included in the K2PAKIT.


Yes, static can be induced by wind, rain and snow as well as nearby 
lightning - we sometimes have lightning even in Winter.


Unfortunately, you will have to find where the problem origin is. You 
can lift one end of R45 to remove Q5.  Check again at the collector pad 
for Q7 or Q8 after removing Q5.

Then to remove Q6, lift one end of RFC4 and check again.

To remove the RF Preamp from the 12 volt rail, lift one end of R74. 
Check again.

To remove the Post Mixer Amp, lift one end of R82 and check once more.
To remove the TX Buffer, lift one end of R97 and check again.

If the 12 volt rail still shows low resistance to ground, you probably 
have a faulty capacitor.  Those are difficult to locate - it is probably 
an electrolytic, so look for any that are not flat on the top.  They 
normally expand inside when they fail, so you are looking for a slightly 
rounded top.  Removal of all the capacitors on the 12 volt rail is the 
next step if you cannot spot a bad one visually.  Look at the schematic 
and look for every line marked +12v - if there is a capacitor 
connected to that line, remove it and check the resistance on the board 
after each one.


Yes, a low resistance to ground is a nasty problem to troubleshoot and 
just takes time to isolate to the failure.  Work methodically - if you 
jump around and try to shotgun it, the normal result is frustration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 8:58 AM, JeremyJones wrote:

With Q7/Q8 removed, the resistance from the Collector solder pad to ground on
both is 70 ohms.

Doing a Tune with Q7/Q8 removed results in 1.0V on the Base pads and a Low
P on the display.  I do have the KAT2 installed, just in case this makes a
difference.  This was done into a dummy load.

The antenna that I normally run is an 80m Carolina Windom strung up between
a tree in my front yard to a tree in my backyard.  I have no additional
grounding to it, just the baluns that are part of the normal antenna design.
I am very cautious of lightning in the summer, and leave the antennas
disconnected when not using the radio, however given that its winter here
and sub zero temperatures, I didn't worry about it.  I had never heard of
static caused by the wind.  What is a good way to protect against this?




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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread Joe Hutchens
Dwight...  Without a theory of operation manual and a good schematic, 
it's really difficult to tell what would cause this.  I'd like to see 
Elecraft publish an addendum to assist troubleshooting this amp.


Would a defective interlock switch cause this or a loose circuit board 
plug?  That would be too easy.  270 and 60 volts run to the PA assembly. 
You would have to isolate the PA assembly from the power supply for 
troubleshooting.


Give Elecraft a call and they will help you out!

Joe Hutchens  ( AJ8MH )
http://webpages.charter.net/aj8mh-radio/


On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 9:25 AM, DGB wrote:

I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the 
OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it 
off. I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.


What do I need to look for?

73 Dwight NS9I
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[Elecraft] Elecraft reflector

2014-02-12 Thread Chris Pickett
Can you please remove my e-mail address from the reflector now, its got
almost as many Lids as your average pile-up these days and is no longer
informative I am afraid to say, can't put up with this dribble any more. The
US Lid who sited 'the Kings English' was the last straw.

 

best of 73 

Chris

M5LRO



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Wes (N7WS)
Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best vertical 
antenna theory.  It's always worked out for me.  Now if I lived on the beach.


Wes  N7WS

On 2/12/2014 12:09 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

[snip]
I'm still working on the comparison of verticals to horizontal antennas -- 
I've done all the modeling and know the results, but haven't organized it to 
show yet. AD5X has also done some excellent work on the 43 ft vertical idea. 
And QST recently published a piece showing that a better use of a 43 ft 
vertical might be as the center support for horizontal dipoles for 80 and 40, 
a concept with which I strongly agree. :)


73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] WG: Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I am all for caution!  That is why I suggested  to start with 100 mw and work 
up rather that full power and take your chances.  There is also a big 
difference in the selected antennas.  Either a Carolina Windom or a classic 
Windom has a lot of vertical polarization while a Yagi has very little.  Also 
my opinion of the quality of a K3 versus an FT-2K is very much higher, but I 
think the ability to turn the power down to sub QRP levels and the difference 
in antennas is very important.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: bernhard.ho...@bmw.de bernhard.ho...@bmw.de
To: wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 9:00 AM
Subject: WG: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 

Hi Willis,

I killed an FT-2000D with a windom on ANT1 and Groundplane on ANT2...they were 
both about 20feet apart!
Before that happened that on 15m my SWR of the windom was bad when the GP was 
connected..so the isolation of the FT-2000D was pretty poor.
But this was, after speaking to other FT-2k owners, only an issue with the 200W 
version.

Using now a 2 el Ultrabeam (by the way cool antenna for small spaces ), HF2V 
Vertical, Longwire and 3 Band Windom but haven't tried this with the K3.
Using a 4 x switch on the roof of the house now and one cable going to the 
shack.

So I am pretty cautious with 2 ant on one rig...hi

73s from Bavaria
Bernie
DL5RDP

--
From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @ 
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing 
the vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more 
power out of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you 
can find your answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of 
fun.  Maybe you will too!

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
overloading and frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft reflector

2014-02-12 Thread Dave Hachadorian

The US Lid who sited 'the Kings English' was the last straw.


That should be cited.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ







.
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Dave
By the way, in case the news hasn't got round yet, we've had a Queen on the 
throne (Elizabeth II) since 1952...


:-)

Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!



Can I request that we try to stick to the king's English here?


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[Elecraft] room on your desks for those monster monitors!

2014-02-12 Thread AD0ES
Hi,

he said:
 I hate you guys that have room on your desks for those monster monitors!  I 
 can just barely fit a pair of ACER 22 inchers and an old
 Lenovo 15 square (for the P3/SVGA) on mine and have room for everything else 
 I need on the shelf.

I have 4 large monitors running, made possible with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00358RFJ8/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00?ie=UTF8psc=1

They allow the monitors to 'float' above the equipment, permitting the 
rigs/etc. to be stacked side by side
across the desk, and the monitors to be side by side above them.  I needed more 
reach from the wall for the
2 side monitors so I added:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PYHYXG/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8psc=1

They are very well made, I tried cheaper brands, no comparison!  One big 
advantage of this setup over
the traditional wood shelf above the rigs with monitors on it is access to 
the rigs.  Merely swing the monitor
out of the way, no shelf blocking access to the back of the rigs.

Steve AD0ES

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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 is Sick!

2014-02-12 Thread Frank Precissi
On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 6:23 AM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:

 The K3 is money!


Totes McGoats!

(Beat that one guys!)

Frank
KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft reflector

2014-02-12 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Folks, 

Please, no personal criticisms or attacks of others on the list. Calling 
someone here a LID is a direct list rules violation and calls for a personal 
apology from the poster.

Personal attacks, snide remarks and rude statements are outside of the list 
guidelines. Please also remember that we have a wide range of list users from 
many regions of the U.S. and the world with different cultures and languages. 
Posts from others are easily mis-interpreted, so please resist the urge to 
quickly post a negative reply.  

Criticizing a person's use of language in a post is also inappropriate. If you 
have the urge to criticize the posting of another, please avoid rushing to hit 
return and instead save it in your drafts folder overnight to see if it is 
really worth posting in the morning. Most of the time, once viewed after a good 
rest,  it isn't.

Please remember that this is just a hobby, with a wide range of interests, 
technical skill and time available for each of us to participate in it. The 
bottom line - let's just have fun and respect everyone on the list. 

Of course, drinking a little the Elecraft 'kool-aid' enthusiasm from time to 
time is OK ;-) Those posts re-energize us and keep us putting in the long hours 
each day to make more great radios and accessories. 

73,
Eric.  WA6HHQ
Your List moderator, who speaks Californian, Dude!
elecraft.com
(Now in our 16th year of making cool, gnarly and rad radios.)
_..._

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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread bill conkling
Mine did this right from the start.  Trace the 270 volt wire from PS go amp 
module, thru the Z bracket.  Somewhere the 270 is going low.  Mine had a bad 
cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector.

... bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:

I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the 
OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off. 
I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.

What do I need to look for?

73 Dwight NS9I
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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread Brian Alsop

Or the interlock hardware is installed wrong.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 2/12/2014 17:28, bill conkling wrote:

Mine did this right from the start.  Trace the 270 volt wire from PS go amp 
module, thru the Z bracket.  Somewhere the 270 is going low.  Mine had a bad 
cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector.

... bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:


I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the
OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off.
I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.

What do I need to look for?

73 Dwight NS9I
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 02/12/14






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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 02/12/14

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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread DGB

The interlock switch and hardware checks out good.

I've had this amp for a couple of years.

Removing the p.s. now to check it out as Bill mentioned.

thanks 73 Dwight NS9I

On 2/12/2014 11:44 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

Or the interlock hardware is installed wrong.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 2/12/2014 17:28, bill conkling wrote:
Mine did this right from the start.  Trace the 270 volt wire from PS 
go amp module, thru the Z bracket. Somewhere the 270 is going low.  
Mine had a bad cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector.


... bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:


I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the
OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off.
I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.

What do I need to look for?

73 Dwight NS9I
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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 
02/12/14







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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 02/12/14

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[Elecraft] kpa100 toroid changes

2014-02-12 Thread John Cooper
Over the years the type of toroids in the kpa100 have changed.  Is this because 
of availability or other reasons?  I have a prewound set of toroids for the 
kpa100 but its old enough to not have rfc1.  Plus the the ones I have don’t 
match descriptions from the latest manual Im working off of.  I don’t have the 
originals either since I never ordered the kit.  Can I modify the L18 I don’t 
need anymore to work in rfc1 spot?

john wt5y
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Re: [Elecraft] What is actually present on Rx-Out BNC of the KXV3 RF bosrd??

2014-02-12 Thread Bob KD7YZ
On 2/11/2014 11:25, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 
 There is nothing there on the RX Out unless one select RX Ant.  Look
 at the K3 schematics and read the Owners Manual. 

read the manual. sadly lacking explaining the Rx-Out BNC.

thanks for the help. Basically it's useless in light of the severe
losses. I need it for the three transverters if I want to run MAP65 on
the EME portions. Sig's already weak enough as it is.

 If you want to split
 the main receiver antenna feed, you will need to add a splitter to the
 RX Out, connect one output port to your Fucbr (whatever that is),


hi hi, sorry, I need a new keyboard as this one has rubbed off letter as
well as some keys, I now see, do not type if pressed to lightly.


Funcube-Dongle-Pro-Plus




-- 

Bob KD7YZ
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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Re: [Elecraft] kpa100 toroid changes

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

The toroids have changed because of the KPA100UPKT.
If you have ordered that kit to update your older kit, you will have two 
blue toroid cores.  The red cores for use at L15 and L16 will not be 
used.  No, you cannot use those cores, you must have 15 uHy of 
inductance at L16 and RFC1 and it would take more turns on the red cores 
than you would want to wind.


Make certain you also have the updated shield kit.  If it is current you 
will have a shield for the speaker magnet and 3 grounding clips as well 
as 2 solder lugs to ground the SO-239 jack directly to the outer side of 
the shield.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 2:11 PM, John Cooper wrote:

Over the years the type of toroids in the kpa100 have changed.  Is this because 
of availability or other reasons?  I have a prewound set of toroids for the 
kpa100 but its old enough to not have rfc1.  Plus the the ones I have don’t 
match descriptions from the latest manual Im working off of.  I don’t have the 
originals either since I never ordered the kit.  Can I modify the L18 I don’t 
need anymore to work in rfc1 spot?




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Re: [Elecraft] What is actually present on Rx-Out BNC of the KXV3 RF bosrd??

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Why don't you connect that Funcube Dongle to the K3 IF OUT jack? That 
will provide a broad spectrum at the 8 MHz IF.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 2:21 PM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:

On 2/11/2014 11:25, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

There is nothing there on the RX Out unless one select RX Ant.  Look
at the K3 schematics and read the Owners Manual.

read the manual. sadly lacking explaining the Rx-Out BNC.

thanks for the help. Basically it's useless in light of the severe
losses. I need it for the three transverters if I want to run MAP65 on
the EME portions. Sig's already weak enough as it is.

  If you want to split

the main receiver antenna feed, you will need to add a splitter to the
RX Out, connect one output port to your Fucbr (whatever that is),


hi hi, sorry, I need a new keyboard as this one has rubbed off letter as
well as some keys, I now see, do not type if pressed to lightly.


Funcube-Dongle-Pro-Plus






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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.

2014-02-12 Thread Scott
Thanks Rich, that is a very clear and thorough explanation!  I cannot relate 
all to my level of understanding, but your explanation is complete so I can 
study it.  In really basic language, what I understand is that adjusting the 
width will only affect the upper limit until I get it narrow enough so that 
both are in an acceptable range.

However, I am still left with some doubts: particularly, why does the upper 
limit change when I adjust the lo-cut, and the lower limit change when I adjust 
the hi-cut?  Thus, if I want to narrow my bandwidth to avoid a station above 
the desired one, I must adjust the lo-cut (I can see this happen on the P3).  
This occurs on all bands on CW.

You are good at giving explanations—I hope I am not trying your patience!

Thanks, 
Scott  AA0AA


Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:06:56 -0500
From: Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net

OK, if you're talking about CW, the K3's normal CW is on lower sideband.
In CW the filter behaviour gets tangled up with the sidetone pitch
setting, which is also the default FC (centre frequency) for the filters
in CW mode. Suppose the sidetone pitch/FC is 500 Hz and the BW
(bandwidth) is 2000 Hz. Given those numbers, the calculated hi-cut and
lo-cut frequencies would be 1500 Hz (FC + BW/2) and -500 Hz (FC - BW/2).
That's a minus sign on the lo-cut frequency, meaning it's on the other
sideband. The firmware should not allow that; it needs to place the
lo-cut frequency on the proper sideband far enough above zero to give
adequate carrier and opposite sideband suppression. IIRC, the low-pass
cutoff is adjustable in the latest firmware - I believe it can be set to
100 Hz, 200 Hz or 300 Hz.
So, with the low-pass cutoff set at 200 Hz, FC at 500 Hz and BW at 2000
Hz, the actual filter bandpass will be from 200 Hz to 1500 Hz. Adjusting
the Width control would only affect the upper limit, as the lower limit
is fixed by the low-pass cutoff. If the Width setting is sufficiently
narrow for the calculated lo-cut frequency to be at or above the
low-pass cutoff (100, 200 or 300 Hz), the effect of the Width control
becomes symmetric about the centre frequency, as you might have
originally expected.
Because CW is on the lower sideband, adjusting the Width control only
affects the lower RF (=higher audio) edge of the bandpass - the upper
edge is fixed by the low-pass cutoff.
Does this help make sense of your observations?
73,
Rich VE3KI

Scott Monks cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com wrote:

Now before you guys think I too am complaining--no, I just have a curious mind!

Two questions that I am sure you more experienced can help me with:

1. When I begin narrowing the DSP down, on filter 1 (2.7, std, offset -0.84) 
only the lower freq side moves.? The DSP switches to the 2.1 filter, reacting 
the same, but when it narrows to about 1.10 (within filter 2; 2.1, offset 0.0) 
it changes so that both low and high move equally.? Even narrowing continues 
through the 700 and 400 Hz filters.? The reverse occurs in the same way.?? I 
have checked the offsets with the K3 program, and they are set as required.? 
On the K-3 display the bar-thing always seems to move equally on both 
sides.? Is this normal?

2. When seen on the P-3, on hi-cut-lo, if I move the lo side, the higher freq 
side moves, and if I move the hi side, the lower freq side moves.? On the K-3 
display the expected side moves.? Again, is this normal?

I have the last production software installed.? This was first noticed when I 
got the P3 and a big screen, when in a contest I wanted to shift the 
receiver up to avoid a disturbing signal and found I had to move the hi side 
to move the lo side!? Now I am accustomed and just watch my screen to make 
sure I am moving outside of the interfering peak.

These only bother me because I know there must be a reason but I don't why 
it happens!? If curiosity is going to kill the cat, don't tell me and I will 
just continue to be happy with my partial K-line!

Thanks for your patience,
Scott? AA0AA


Scott  AA0AA; XE1/AA0AA
cq_dx_de_aa...@yahoo.com


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2014-02-12 Thread Mike Sullivan
referral program http://esgalicia.com/c11f714t9d0z8r.php







From: Mike 2/12/2014 9:39:23 PM
  
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2014-02-12 Thread Edward R Cole

Ralf,

Thanks for catching my mistake in the ohm's law formula.
P = E^2/R

Regarding using the far-field loss formula it is probably prudent to 
try measuring power on the receiving antenna when transmitting on the 
other antenna (the yagi).  At the very least check with a SWR meter 
in the lowest power range and see if you detect anything.  If the 
meter deflects or twitches power is probably way too high and you 
need some kind of protection device.  There are some simple milliwatt 
power meter designs in some ham Handbooks (look for field strength 
meters); simplest is a IN34 and 1ma meter.  If you blow up the 1N34 
you have your answer!  Better that you use a couple 20-dB coax 
attenuators before the meter at first.  I no power is seen then 
remove one and test again.


You can rely on using 0 dBm as maximum survivable input to the 
receiver, but the receiver still will be driven into compression and 
not usable while transmitting.


My example of 130-feet was at 144-MHz so not a fair comparison with 
HF freq. which have much longer wavelength.


The space loss formula is useful for making measurements at far-field 
(google it)


73, Ed - KL7UW


From: Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
Message-ID:
8dbfe76b-9bb4-4da1-a0b9-4a507d1ae...@super-deutschland.net
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Hi George,

The 130 feet corresponds to lambda/2 on 80 and you can use the far 
field approximation (that Ed is using) there...


At short distances (less than a quarter or a sixth of the 
wavelength), however, 1/r^2 and 1/r^3 (near field) components of E 
and H fields are still present (or dominant) and the far field 
approximation should not be used. You also have to be careful with 
the cross-polarization argument, since the electrical near field has 
all three vector components almost anywhere in space and the coupling 
can be much higher (depending on how well symmetry is preserved in 
the yagi+vertical system).


Better use a NEC based program (e.g. EZNEC or the free 4nec2), if you 
have on access to a milliwatt-meter/scope and have to calculate...


By the way, P should read
P= E*I = E^2/R
=  E=sqrt(P*R)=223mV
for a 0dBm (S9+67dB) signal (?)


Greetings

Ralf, DL6OAP




73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Ralf Wilhelm
Hi Ed,

Actually, my S9+67 dB for 0dBm turned out to be wrong - I lost one 6 dB in my 
book keeping, so 0dBm is S9+73 dB - or S9 equals -73 dBm (which is the number I 
had in mind).

No doubt about the space loss formula and the far field  - free space loss is 
no dissipative loss like for example loss in the ground but just a geometry 
factor. Basically the free space formula calculates the aperture area of 
your rx antenna divided by the area of a sphere centered on the tx antenna and 
with radius r (r being the distance). But this is the free space loss only if 
E and H fields decay as 1/r because that means that power density decays as 
1/r^2 and integration over the sphere yields the total emitted power (which is 
the idea behind the formula) and by definition 1/r decay is the far field. If 
the 1/r^2 and 1/r^3 components of the fields have not already decayed, the 
space loss formula gives wrong results (which is why the german FCC 
equivalent wants us to either perform a near field calculation or  a 
measurement if we run more than 10 Watts ERP to be sure that we don't exceed 
the near field limits).

Regarding the polarization decoupling you mentioned: one can see by a little 
gedankenexperiment (as we say in physics even in english) that all electrical 
field vector components exist in the near field of the transmitting antenna: a 
part of the near field of a (electrically short) dipole follows the charge 
distribution on the dipole immediately (almost no retardation) and looks 
pretty much the same as the field between a positive and a negative charge (a 
static dipole) - or a short magnet - there are some field lines leaving the 
positve charge perpendicular to the antenna axis and then bending towards the 
other charge. If you view this from the side, you can see that even a perfectly 
horizontally polarized antenna has a vertical near field component, but for a 
short dipole, this decays as 1/r^3 (I think so) and is not present in the far 
field any more but might be dominant in the near field - so, with the vertical 
in the near field, the polarization decoupling can be d
 rastically reduced. Only if the yagi plus vertical system is symmetric - the 
(balanced) yagi pointing exactly towards the vertical or exactly  in the 
opposite direction - this near field component will vanish (for symmetry 
reasons) and the polarization decoupling works, but for the other directions of 
the yagi it won't...

So, regardless if you simulate or measure, don't forget to turn the yagi 
antenna into several directions - may be the coupling is stronger when one end 
of the driven element is close to the vertical...


Greetings

Ralf, DL6OAP





Am 12.02.2014 um 21:46 schrieb Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net:

 Ralf,
 
 Thanks for catching my mistake in the ohm's law formula.
 P = E^2/R
 
 Regarding using the far-field loss formula it is probably prudent to try 
 measuring power on the receiving antenna when transmitting on the other 
 antenna (the yagi).  At the very least check with a SWR meter in the lowest 
 power range and see if you detect anything.  If the meter deflects or 
 twitches power is probably way too high and you need some kind of 
 protection device.  There are some simple milliwatt power meter designs in 
 some ham Handbooks (look for field strength meters); simplest is a IN34 and 
 1ma meter.  If you blow up the 1N34 you have your answer!  Better that you 
 use a couple 20-dB coax attenuators before the meter at first.  I no power is 
 seen then remove one and test again.
 
 You can rely on using 0 dBm as maximum survivable input to the receiver, but 
 the receiver still will be driven into compression and not usable while 
 transmitting.
 
 My example of 130-feet was at 144-MHz so not a fair comparison with HF freq. 
 which have much longer wavelength.
 
 The space loss formula is useful for making measurements at far-field (google 
 it)
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Bill Turner
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage 
would be done by the situation originally posted.


Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many 
variables in a particular situation to risk  depending on calculations 
when expensive equipment is endangered.


If  you must go ahead with your situation, I strongly suggest, as others 
have done, that you measure the interaction rather than try to calculate 
it.


73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] Polarization loss [was no subject]

2014-02-12 Thread Fred Jensen

On 2/12/2014 12:46 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Ralf,

Thanks for catching my mistake in the ohm's law formula.
P = E^2/R


It's been at least 100 years since I worked antenna problems out on my 
KE log-log duplex vector slide rule, but the rule of 20 dB loss with 
crossed polarization doesn't apply well [or at all] in the near-field. 
 And, the near-field doesn't just suddenly end, it declines as 1/d^k 
where k is usually somewhere between 2 and 3 depending on a bunch of 
other factors.  The result is that the NF fades into the FF, there's no 
sign out from the antenna that says, The Far-Field starts here.** :-) 
 Again, I would be extremely careful connecting a second antenna to a 
receiver if the antennas are at all close.  Many a radio has been fried 
on Field Days.


On the subject of destroying the front end of a receiver, be very wary 
of precipitation static with ungrounded antennas.  Each rain drop or 
snowflake deposits a tiny charge.  In the absence of some path to 
ground, each tiny charge will add to the total charge on the input 
capacitance of the first stage [like an FET], and eventually the voltage 
will rise high enough to destroy the device.  I believe Elecraft radios 
have internal bleeds on the antennas but I still have external ones on mine.


The same crew with over 200 hours of aggregate ham experience that put 
the CW and SSB stations in the same cabin watched a tiny little bit of 
grass on the baseline of a 756Pro2 that we couldn't even hear as it 
began to snow.  Then silence.  So, being highly experienced, we replaced 
it with another 756Pro2, and watched it die the same death.  Easiest way 
to do it externally is to solder a 50K or so resistor into a PL-259, 
screw it onto one arm of a coax T, put the antenna on the other arm and 
screw the T onto the radio.  You can use an RF choke instead of a 
resistor, however that can sometimes lead to parasitic resonances.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

**The original transcontinental railroad began in Sacramento.  The 
government subsidy to the railroad was higher for construction in the 
mountains.  The terrain around Sacramento is very flat, and the 
foothills of the Sierra Nevada are a good 30 miles or more to the east. 
 A few miles NE of downtown is a golf course [flat], and there is [or 
was] a plaque on a rock that read, The mountains begin here.



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Wire a small grain-of-wheat incandescent light bulb to the unused antenna 
feed and fire up the transmitter.  If the bulb lights brightly, you need 
some protection.  Admittedly, this is a crude test, but it can point to a 
problem and takes into account all those variables in the calculations.  Try 
all bands and start at low power, otherwise, you may blow the bulb before 
any relative results can be gleaned.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage would 
be done by the situation originally posted.


Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many 
variables in a particular situation to risk  depending on calculations 
when expensive equipment is endangered.


If  you must go ahead with your situation, I strongly suggest, as others 
have done, that you measure the interaction rather than try to calculate 
it.


73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Jim Brown

On 2/12/2014 7:29 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best 
vertical antenna theory.  It's always worked out for me.  Now if I 
lived on the beach...


Hi Wes,

Based on my model studies, I wouldn't go that far -- it depends on how 
high either of the antennas are, as well as the quality of the ground. 
If your criteria is low angle radiation and you have better than average 
soil, a vertical dipole that's 20 ft or more above ground will beat a 
low dipole. Here in the mountains, our soil is stinko, so the only band 
where a vertical beats a horizontal dipole is 160M.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread bill conkling
Measure the voltage at end of wire thru Z bracket while not connected to the 
amp module.  And also connected.  Should be 270 V.  Mine was 12 V when 
connected.

...bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:

The interlock switch and hardware checks out good.

I've had this amp for a couple of years.

Removing the p.s. now to check it out as Bill mentioned.

thanks 73 Dwight NS9I

On 2/12/2014 11:44 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:
 Or the interlock hardware is installed wrong.

 73 de Brian/K3KO

 On 2/12/2014 17:28, bill conkling wrote:
 Mine did this right from the start.  Trace the 270 volt wire from PS 
 go amp module, thru the Z bracket. Somewhere the 270 is going low.  
 Mine had a bad cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector.

 ... bill nr4c

 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

 DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:

 I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the
 OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off.
 I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.

 What do I need to look for?

 73 Dwight NS9I
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[Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Dick Frey
-- 
Dick - K4XU
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Jack
When we had our place in Silver Springs, NV, our 40-meter 4-square, with 
an excellent radial system, was killer. I cannot imagine anything short 
of a full-size 2, possibly 3, element yagi up at least 70 feet even 
coming close. I would think it would take the 3-element yagi to even 
approach the F/B ratio of the 4-square.


On the beach works *real* well. Any antenna we tried at Ballenita, 
Ecuador, worked great. The QTH was roughly 10-meters inland from 
high-tide! :)


Jack, W6NF/VE4SNA/HC2UA
Shelley, K7MKL/HC2UB

On 2/12/2014 3:17 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 2/12/2014 7:29 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best 
vertical antenna theory.  It's always worked out for me.  Now if I 
lived on the beach...


Hi Wes,

Based on my model studies, I wouldn't go that far -- it depends on how 
high either of the antennas are, as well as the quality of the ground. 
If your criteria is low angle radiation and you have better than 
average soil, a vertical dipole that's 20 ft or more above ground will 
beat a low dipole. Here in the mountains, our soil is stinko, so the 
only band where a vertical beats a horizontal dipole is 160M.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500

2014-02-12 Thread Dwight Bosselman
Mine did too ... Elecraft is sending me a new one, was under warranty!

Kudos to Elecraft!

73 Dwight NS9I
On Feb 12, 2014 5:29 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 Measure the voltage at end of wire thru Z bracket while not connected to
 the amp module.  And also connected.  Should be 270 V.  Mine was 12 V when
 connected.

 ...bill nr4c

 *Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID*


 DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:

 The interlock switch and hardware checks out good.

 I've had this amp for a couple of years.

 Removing the p.s. now to check it out as Bill mentioned.

 thanks 73 Dwight NS9I

 On 2/12/2014 11:44 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:
  Or the interlock hardware is installed wrong.
 
  73 de Brian/K3KO
 
  On 2/12/2014 17:28, bill conkling wrote:
  Mine did this right from the start.  Trace the 270 volt wire from PS
  go amp module, thru the Z bracket. Somewhere the 270 is going low.
  Mine had a bad cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector.
 
  ... bill nr4c
 
  Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
 
  DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote:
 
  I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the
  OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off.
  I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine.
 
  What do I need to look for?
 
  73 Dwight NS9I
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Phil Wheeler

Bill,

You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)

73, Phil w7ox

On 2/12/14, 2:45 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
I see a number of people are trying to calculate 
whether any damage would be done by the 
situation originally posted.


Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. 
There are too many variables in a particular 
situation to risk  depending on calculations 
when expensive equipment is endangered.


If  you must go ahead with your situation, I 
strongly suggest, as others have done, that you 
measure the interaction rather than try to 
calculate it.


73, Bill W6WRT


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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Joel Black

Dick,

Make sure you don't have SYNC DATA enabled. You will know if you do by a 
-S just under the DATA indication on the right side of the screen.


I ran into this while trying to work a DX station on AFSK A split. I 
kept getting UP UP W4JBB. Although everything indicated I *was* split, I 
was not. I don't know why. All I know is that with SYNC DATA enabled (I 
use it for WINMOR), it minimizes T/R delays by forcing the same crystal 
filter for both transmit and receive.


73,
Joel - W4JBB

On 2/12/14, 5:33 PM, Dick Frey wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] Polarization loss [was no subject]

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
A 'technical' consideration - rather than a creating a path to 'ground' 
for the antenna, it is better to create a DC path across each feedline.  
Fred's suggestion works and works quite nicely.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 6:09 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Easiest way to do it externally is to solder a 50K or so resistor into 
a PL-259, screw it onto one arm of a coax T, put the antenna on the 
other arm and screw the T onto the radio.  You can use an RF choke 
instead of a resistor, however that can sometimes lead to parasitic 
resonances.




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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Wayne Burdick
As mentioned in the K3 owner's manual SPLIT is not available for all mode 
combinations. If you see N/A flashed on VFO B when you try to enter split, 
then either the VFO A and B modes in effect at present are not usable in SPLIT, 
or you may have VFO B in a different mode than you think. Try tapping AB twice 
to ensure that VFO A and B are in the same mode. 

In any case where SPLIT isn't available you can always use RIT or XIT. If you 
have the sub receiver, you can achieve split operation without going into SPLIT 
mode: just use VFO B to tune the station you're listening to, and use VFO A to 
find a clear spot to call. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 12, 2014, at 3:57 PM, Joel Black w4...@charter.net wrote:

 Dick,
 
 Make sure you don't have SYNC DATA enabled. You will know if you do by a -S 
 just under the DATA indication on the right side of the screen.
 
 I ran into this while trying to work a DX station on AFSK A split. I kept 
 getting UP UP W4JBB. Although everything indicated I *was* split, I was not. 
 I don't know why. All I know is that with SYNC DATA enabled (I use it for 
 WINMOR), it minimizes T/R delays by forcing the same crystal filter for both 
 transmit and receive.
 
 73,
 Joel - W4JBB
 
 On 2/12/14, 5:33 PM, Dick Frey wrote:
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Bill Frantz
MOst frequently for me is I haven't pressed A-B twice to set 
the second VFO to the same mode etc. as the primary one.


Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

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Bill Frantz| Re: Hardware Management Modes: | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | If there's a mode, there's a   | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | failure mode. - Jerry Leichter | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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[Elecraft] Upright Whip Antenna

2014-02-12 Thread Richard Mitchell
I am using an MFJ-1899T antenna on my KX3 using the right angle BNC connector I 
purchased from Elecraft.  My issue is that the antenna will not stand up 
straight because the right angle connector does not lock into place.  It 
rotates freely around the axis connected to the KX3.  Is there a solution for 
keeping the antenna upright other than holding it with my fingers which will 
probably affect SWR.

73,

Rich NC4EN
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[Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread Jim Lowman
A while ago, someone postulated about the percentage of KX3 owners who 
might also buy a KXPA100 amp.

At the time, I though that it sounded a bit high.

Today I read that KXPA100 #605 had been received, as has KX3 #5485.
My math shows that only 11% of KX3 owners are also owners of the KXPA100.

I don't expect this percentage to change much with time, now that (I 
believe) Elecraft has caught up with all of the pre-orders on the 
KXPA100 and, certainly, the KX3.
I also believe that almost everyone who was on the proverbial fence 
about either, has jumped in and ordered at this point.


It will be interesting to see what the trend is on the 2m module.
I'm hoping that the big announcement will be made soon, and the gate 
opened for pre-orders on the 2m module; at least, before I go in the 
hospital for surgery on the 24th.


72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread John
I love my 40 mtr 4 SQ  it's in the woods of FAR NW WI. Poor soil, good ground 
system (36 each vertical) and very exact construction. Antennas are surrounded 
by much taller aspen. I moved from a location where I had a big 2 element at 
125'. It feels very similar and at 72, I'm done climbing big towers.  Sure is 
easier to maintain/fix/adjust. For those considering, it's verybroadbanded and 
even has directivity on 30!  Worked FT5ZM on CW and rtty on 30 using the 40 mtr 
4 SQ. 
It stinks for ss on 40, but great band opener for DX (further away the better). 
John, N0IJ
Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 12, 2014, at 5:34 PM, Jack vhfp...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 When we had our place in Silver Springs, NV, our 40-meter 4-square, with an 
 excellent radial system, was killer. I cannot imagine anything short of a 
 full-size 2, possibly 3, element yagi up at least 70 feet even coming close. 
 I would think it would take the 3-element yagi to even approach the F/B ratio 
 of the 4-square.
 
 On the beach works *real* well. Any antenna we tried at Ballenita, Ecuador, 
 worked great. The QTH was roughly 10-meters inland from high-tide! :)
 
 Jack, W6NF/VE4SNA/HC2UA
 Shelley, K7MKL/HC2UB
 
 On 2/12/2014 3:17 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 On 2/12/2014 7:29 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
 Also known as, The worst horizontal antenna is better than the best 
 vertical antenna theory.  It's always worked out for me.  Now if I lived 
 on the beach...
 
 Hi Wes,
 
 Based on my model studies, I wouldn't go that far -- it depends on how high 
 either of the antennas are, as well as the quality of the ground. If your 
 criteria is low angle radiation and you have better than average soil, a 
 vertical dipole that's 20 ft or more above ground will beat a low dipole. 
 Here in the mountains, our soil is stinko, so the only band where a vertical 
 beats a horizontal dipole is 160M.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread EricJ

Surprised me too. It ALWAYS produces results.

Eric
KE6US

On 2/12/2014 3:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Bill,

You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)

73, Phil w7ox

On 2/12/14, 2:45 PM, Bill Turner wrote:
I see a number of people are trying to calculate whether any damage 
would be done by the situation originally posted.


Frankly, I think this is a dangerous approach. There are too many 
variables in a particular situation to risk  depending on 
calculations when expensive equipment is endangered.


If  you must go ahead with your situation, I strongly suggest, as 
others have done, that you measure the interaction rather than try to 
calculate it.


73, Bill W6WRT


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread JeremyJones
Lifting one end of R45 still showed 70 ohms.  Lifting one end of RFC4
increased to 87 ohms.  I left the leg of R45 disconnected when taking this
measurement, and I want to confirm whether I should leave the components
disconnected as I go through, or reconnect them before moving on to the
next.

Thanks,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

2014-02-12 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 2/12/2014 3:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Bill,

You don't trust the traditional Smoke Test? :-)

73, Phil w7ox 


REPLY:

Of course I trust it. I use it whenever I need smoke.  :-)

73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread bill conkling
I don't think it's supposed to.  I don't remember why.

...bill nr4c

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Dick Frey k4xu.1...@gmail.com wrote:

-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

Leave them disconnected until you find the culprit.
Take notes of waht you have done if necessary so you can restore things 
after you have found the problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 8:46 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Lifting one end of R45 still showed 70 ohms.  Lifting one end of RFC4
increased to 87 ohms.  I left the leg of R45 disconnected when taking this
measurement, and I want to confirm whether I should leave the components
disconnected as I go through, or reconnect them before moving on to the
next.




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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Jim Miller
When using RTTY I only use FSK-D and DX pileups always mean split. You must
have something misconfigured.

You're welcome to email me direct and we can compare settings.

73

jim ab3cv


On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 8:56 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 I don't think it's supposed to.  I don't remember why.

 ...bill nr4c

 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

 Dick Frey k4xu.1...@gmail.com wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] Why won't my K3 work split in FSK-D mode?

2014-02-12 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 2/12/2014 4:07 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
MOst frequently for me is I haven't pressed A-B twice to set the 
second VFO to the same mode etc. as the primary one. 


REPLY:

For my style of split operation I always press it twice.

This would be a nice option in the Config menu: Press once to transfer 
frequency only or to

transfer all A VFO settings.


73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] curious behavior of the K3/P3, etc.

2014-02-12 Thread Richard Ferch

Let's see if I can make this clearer.

Let's suppose you are listening to a CW signal that is on exactly 
14020.00 kHz. Let's also suppose that the sidetone pitch in your K3 is 
set to 500 Hz. Leaving aside all the frequency translation stuff that 
goes on inside a superhet and just talking about the frequencies you 
observe from outside the radio, what actually happens in the receiver is 
that its effective BFO frequency (which digital-mode amateurs today 
often refer to as the suppressed carrier frequency) is tuned to 
14020.50 kHz. What you hear in your speaker or headphones is the 500 Hz 
beat between the BFO and the actual transmitted signal. Note that in CW, 
the K3's dial displays the actual CW frequency, not the suppressed 
carrier frequency as it does in SSB.


You can verify this in practice by tuning in a CW signal until its pitch 
exactly matches your sidetone pitch, then changing modes to LSB. In 
order to hear the same thing you hear in CW, you will find that you have 
to tune the dial frequency higher by an amount equal to your sidetone 
pitch, at which point what you hear in LSB will be the same as what you 
heard in CW. Actually, there is a VFO OFS setting in the K3 (under 
CONFIG:CW WGHT, 5 button) that will do this retune automatically for you 
when you switch modes, if that is how you want the rig to behave.


OK, so with the suppressed carrier tuned to 14020.50 kHz, the centre of 
your filter bandpass is on 14020.00 (assuming you have left FC equal to 
the sidetone pitch). Let's suppose your filter is set to 400 Hz 
bandwidth, so that it passes audio frequencies between 300 Hz and 700 
Hz. The frequency at the bottom of the audio range (the lo-cut 
frequency) is 300 Hz below the suppressed carrier, i.e. 14020.20 kHz. 
The frequency at the top of the audio range (the hi-cut frequency) is 
700 Hz below the suppressed carrier, i.e. 14019.80 kHz. Note that the 
lo-cut audio frequency is the higher frequency at RF, and the hi-cut 
audio frequency is the lower frequency at RF.


The reason the AF and RF bandpasses are inverted with respect to one 
another is that normal CW in the K3 is on the lower sideband, i.e. the 
suppressed carrier or BFO is above the frequency you are listening to. 
In CW-REV, the suppressed carrier is below the frequency you are 
listening to (i.e. the receiver is in USB), and in that case the AF and 
RF bandpasses are no longer inverted with respect to one another.


Hope this helps.

73,
Rich VE3KI


On 2014-02-12 2:44 PM, Scott wrote:

Thanks Rich, that is a very clear and thorough explanation!  I cannot
relate all to my level of understanding, but your explanation is
complete so I can study it.  In really basic language, what I understand
is that adjusting the width will only affect the upper limit until I get
it narrow enough so that both are in an acceptable range.

However, I am still left with some doubts: particularly, why does the
upper limit change when I adjust the lo-cut, and the lower limit change
when I adjust the hi-cut?  Thus, if I want to narrow my bandwidth to
avoid a station above the desired one, I must adjust the lo-cut (I can
see this happen on the P3).  This occurs on all bands on CW.

You are good at giving explanations—I hope I am not trying your patience!

Thanks,
Scott  AA0AA


Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:06:56 -0500
From: Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca mailto:ve3...@storm.ca
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net

OK, if you're talking about CW, the K3's normal CW is on lower sideband.
In CW the filter behaviour gets tangled up with the sidetone pitch
setting, which is also the default FC (centre frequency) for the filters
in CW mode. Suppose the sidetone pitch/FC is 500 Hz and the BW
(bandwidth) is 2000 Hz. Given those numbers, the calculated hi-cut and
lo-cut frequencies would be 1500 Hz (FC + BW/2) and -500 Hz (FC - BW/2).
That's a minus sign on the lo-cut frequency, meaning it's on the other
sideband. The firmware should not allow that; it needs to place the
lo-cut frequency on the proper sideband far enough above zero to give
adequate carrier and opposite sideband suppression. IIRC, the low-pass
cutoff is adjustable in the latest firmware - I believe it can be set to
100 Hz, 200 Hz or 300 Hz.
So, with the low-pass cutoff set at 200 Hz, FC at 500 Hz and BW at 2000
Hz, the actual filter bandpass will be from 200 Hz to 1500 Hz. Adjusting
the Width control would only affect the upper limit, as the lower limit
is fixed by the low-pass cutoff. If the Width setting is sufficiently
narrow for the calculated lo-cut frequency to be at or above the
low-pass cutoff (100, 200 or 300 Hz), the effect of the Width control
becomes symmetric about the centre frequency, as you might have
originally expected.
Because CW is on the lower sideband, adjusting the Width control only
  

Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread JeremyJones
I have lifted R45, RFC4, R74, R82 and R97, with only a slight increase from
70 ohms to 87 ohms after lifting RFC4.  I'll continue troubleshooting
tomorrow by removing any capacitors connected to 12V.

I also want to confirm that I should be doing these resistance checks with
no power applied.  
Also, I am using an inexpensive ohm meter.  Will that have enough power to
charge the capacitors up enough to show the expected resistance?

Thanks,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Won't power on

2014-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jeremy,

Yes, you should be doing the resistance checks with no power applied.
Inexpensive ohmmeter?  Well, if it is a digital multimeter in resistance 
mode, you should be OK, but i it is an analog VOM or VTVM, it may not be 
showing you the real picture because the voltage may be sufficient to 
turn on semiconductor junctions.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/12/2014 9:15 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

I have lifted R45, RFC4, R74, R82 and R97, with only a slight increase from
70 ohms to 87 ohms after lifting RFC4.  I'll continue troubleshooting
tomorrow by removing any capacitors connected to 12V.

I also want to confirm that I should be doing these resistance checks with
no power applied.
Also, I am using an inexpensive ohm meter.  Will that have enough power to
charge the capacitors up enough to show the expected resistance?

Thanks,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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[Elecraft] P3 160M issue

2014-02-12 Thread Gary Smith
Hi,

I just bought a used P3 with SVGA card and am experiencing something 
interesting on 160M: When on all other bands the P3 display presents 
with an appropriate S meter reading on the left of the P3 monitor but 
on 160 my S level in the K3 is S10+ but the P3 display does not 
display higher than S9 so all I can see is the noise level, no 
signals.

When going to all other bands the P3 acts as expected and the S meter 
on the P3 shows: +35 on 80M, +50 on 60M, +35 on 40M, +60 on 30M, +35 
on 20M, +40 on 17M, +45 on 15M, +35 on 17M, +20 on 10M and +35 on 6M 
- All of these bands I see a waterfall display.

When the K3 is on 160M, all you see are the lower yellow tips of the 
RF moving at the top of the VGA, no S readings are displayed on the 
left side of the VGA monitor. 

On the P3 monitor it is all blue, pink where the waterfall should be 
and the highest reading displayed on the left is S9.

When I switch to 160M I can immediately see there are signals on 160 
but the reading floats to the top in about 2-3 seconds.  

Is there a setting I haven't come across yet to address this?

73,

Gary
KA1J

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 160M issue

2014-02-12 Thread Matt Zilmer
You should adjust the REF LVL.  See the column of switches on the
right?

matt W6NIA

On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:32:19 -0500, you wrote:

Hi,

I just bought a used P3 with SVGA card and am experiencing something 
interesting on 160M: When on all other bands the P3 display presents 
with an appropriate S meter reading on the left of the P3 monitor but 
on 160 my S level in the K3 is S10+ but the P3 display does not 
display higher than S9 so all I can see is the noise level, no 
signals.

When going to all other bands the P3 acts as expected and the S meter 
on the P3 shows: +35 on 80M, +50 on 60M, +35 on 40M, +60 on 30M, +35 
on 20M, +40 on 17M, +45 on 15M, +35 on 17M, +20 on 10M and +35 on 6M 
- All of these bands I see a waterfall display.

When the K3 is on 160M, all you see are the lower yellow tips of the 
RF moving at the top of the VGA, no S readings are displayed on the 
left side of the VGA monitor. 

On the P3 monitor it is all blue, pink where the waterfall should be 
and the highest reading displayed on the left is S9.

When I switch to 160M I can immediately see there are signals on 160 
but the reading floats to the top in about 2-3 seconds.  

Is there a setting I haven't come across yet to address this?

73,

Gary
KA1J

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--
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spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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[Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Jim Miller
Starting to setup for some LF up conversion with the new 10Mhz IF.

Settings:

XV1 on
XV1 RF 0
XV1 IF 10
XV1 PWR L .05
XV1 OFS 0.00
XV1 ADR trn1

When I exit the CONFIG menu the frequency shows 333.045.80. Seems odd...

P3 display shows 14.333.037.30 for the cursor location.

I would have thought the display would have read KHz with some reasonable
values and the P3 would likewise display the desired result.

I must be doing something wrong.

Suggestions?

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 160M issue

2014-02-12 Thread Gary Smith
Thanks for all the replies. I'd tried the Ref LVL but didn't get that 
point regarding the adjustment with the pot. Yes, it looks like it 
had been set up for this earlier. I didn't realize about the two 
inter-related functions with that switch. Now I am getting it to 
work. 

Still reading the manual but now I have it so I can make sense of it.

Thanks!

73,

Gary
KA1J

 I'm guessing the other bands have already been setup this way
 but 160m has not, try this below:
 
 tap the REF LVL button
 and turn the knob so the
 Ref Lvl (-dBm): numbers go down
 
 then when you have the grass (noise floor) at the bottom
 hold the REF LVL button
 and turn the knob until you have the 'scale' showing thetop signals at 
 the level you want to see
 
 On 2/12/2014 9:32 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
  Hi,
 
  I just bought a used P3 with SVGA card and am experiencing something
  interesting on 160M: When on all other bands the P3 display presents
  with an appropriate S meter reading on the left of the P3 monitor but
  on 160 my S level in the K3 is S10+ but the P3 display does not
  display higher than S9 so all I can see is the noise level, no
  signals.
 
  When going to all other bands the P3 acts as expected and the S meter
  on the P3 shows: +35 on 80M, +50 on 60M, +35 on 40M, +60 on 30M, +35
  on 20M, +40 on 17M, +45 on 15M, +35 on 17M, +20 on 10M and +35 on 6M
  - All of these bands I see a waterfall display.
 
  When the K3 is on 160M, all you see are the lower yellow tips of the
  RF moving at the top of the VGA, no S readings are displayed on the
  left side of the VGA monitor.
 
  On the P3 monitor it is all blue, pink where the waterfall should be
  and the highest reading displayed on the left is S9.
 
  When I switch to 160M I can immediately see there are signals on 160
  but the reading floats to the top in about 2-3 seconds.
 
  Is there a setting I haven't come across yet to address this?
 
  73,
 
  Gary
  KA1J
 
 -- 
 GB  73
 K5OAI
 Sam Morgan
 




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Jim,

If you tune below 0.000.00 as indicated on the display, you encounter a 
leetle buglet not yet fixed. Try rotating the VFO clockwise until you get above 
0. 

Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 12, 2014, at 7:47 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

 Starting to setup for some LF up conversion with the new 10Mhz IF.
 
 Settings:
 
 XV1 on
 XV1 RF 0
 XV1 IF 10
 XV1 PWR L .05
 XV1 OFS 0.00
 XV1 ADR trn1
 
 When I exit the CONFIG menu the frequency shows 333.045.80. Seems odd...
 
 P3 display shows 14.333.037.30 for the cursor location.
 
 I would have thought the display would have read KHz with some reasonable
 values and the P3 would likewise display the desired result.
 
 I must be doing something wrong.
 
 Suggestions?
 
 jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Jim AB3CV
Just entered 0 for frequency via buttons and 0.490.00 (MHz) showed up on VFOA
display.

Can't go below 490.

If I enter via buttons 1 as the frequency I get to 1.000.00 (presumably Mhz)
but still can't dial below 490.

The 630M band will be 472-479Khz so that won't work.

Plus I was hoping this would work from 10 to 10.5Mhz to allow for SWL
activity outside the 630M band. 

I've got the general coverage filters.

Thanks

jim ab3cv



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[Elecraft] KX3 TX EQ menu feature

2014-02-12 Thread J-F Ménard VA2SS
Hi,

I started to use today my KX3 + KPA100 as my main rig at home. I always
dream using the same rig at home and during portable outdoor.

I also wish to limit the settings adjustment at a minimum when switching
between both separate activities.

To have different settings for TX EQ would be really great, and I really
think this wish do not imply such big development for Elecraft team.

TX EQ menu could be set to :

1- OFF (flat EQ)
2- EQ 1 (8 bands settings for home operation, rag chew or DX)
3- EQ 2 (8 bands settings for outdoors, optimize for more audio punch)

It will give us also more flexibility when trying to compare between to
different TX setup on the air with other guys if we could switch fast
between 2 different settings.

I really hope this feature could be implemented in a future release.

Thanks Elecraft for all the works !!!

Regards,

J-F VA2SS



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Jim AB3CV
Also switching to 160 and back again reverts to 334.076.00 odd display.

jim ab3cv (chasing V26M...)



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Re: [Elecraft] # 5607 first contact QRP!

2014-02-12 Thread J-F Ménard VA2SS
Congratulations Dale !!

You make me remember my first one too !!

Best 73.

J-F VA2SS



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Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread Stephen Selberg
Greetings,

I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on getting
one but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) letting
the bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from others
4) did I mention finances...boy diapers are expensive 5) didn't order one
initially due to the delay of order fulfillment  6) as you mentioned the 2
meter module, cant decide if I want that or the amp first 7) the xyl
factor... God forbid I buy more radio gear before buying her the extremely
overpriced purse that she wants...8) something at home always needs to be
repaired/replaced taking from the radio fund...

I'm sure the ratio will move up as time goes on.

Good luck with your surgery Jim. I wish you a speedy recovery.

73 Steve KS6PD



On Wednesday, February 12, 2014, Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 A while ago, someone postulated about the percentage of KX3 owners who
 might also buy a KXPA100 amp.
 At the time, I though that it sounded a bit high.

 Today I read that KXPA100 #605 had been received, as has KX3 #5485.
 My math shows that only 11% of KX3 owners are also owners of the KXPA100.

 I don't expect this percentage to change much with time, now that (I
 believe) Elecraft has caught up with all of the pre-orders on the KXPA100
 and, certainly, the KX3.
 I also believe that almost everyone who was on the proverbial fence about
 either, has jumped in and ordered at this point.

 It will be interesting to see what the trend is on the 2m module.
 I'm hoping that the big announcement will be made soon, and the gate
 opened for pre-orders on the 2m module; at least, before I go in the
 hospital for surgery on the 24th.

 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

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[Elecraft] K1-4

2014-02-12 Thread kh6golf

For sale K1-4
 Bands: 40,30,20 and 17meters
 KAT1 : Automatic Tuner
 KNB1: Noise Blanker
   Backlight Mod
   It is a surplus to my needs, now that I have a KX3. Asking $375. Very good 
condition with limited use.

  Clarence, KH6G

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Eric NO3M
Switch to the transverter band you setup using the BAND up/dwn buttons.  
When you see 334.076.00, move the VFO clockwise to pass the 0.000 point 
and continue upwards if you're headed for 475 kHz territory, set the 
VFO to Course tuning to get there faster.


DON'T enter direct frequency, doing that will change the freq. of the 
160M band slot, it just doesn't work the way you are expecting. That is 
why when you move down after entering the freq. you hit a wall at 490 
kHz.  For now, if you have a frequency in the transverter band to QSY 
to, move there with the VFO.


Running the 10 MHz IF here with dual diversity RX and TX.  Currently 
running a side-by-side digital mode TX test tonight around 475.5 kHz.


GL 73 Eric NO3M / WG2XJM

On 02/12/2014 11:09 PM, Jim AB3CV wrote:

Also switching to 160 and back again reverts to 334.076.00 odd display.

jim ab3cv (chasing V26M...)






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Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread george fritkin

I have one.  Luckily money is not an issue. Up dates?  Who cares!  It works 
great as is. Software bugs, eh.  Ask me I am an old software developer. It is a 
great companion for the kx3. It also drives a linear nicely

George,W6GF



--
On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 8:24 PM PST Stephen Selberg wrote:

Greetings,

I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on getting
one but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) letting
the bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from others
4) did I mention finances...boy diapers are expensive 5) didn't order one
initially due to the delay of order fulfillment  6) as you mentioned the 2
meter module, cant decide if I want that or the amp first 7) the xyl
factor... God forbid I buy more radio gear before buying her the extremely
overpriced purse that she wants...8) something at home always needs to be
repaired/replaced taking from the radio fund...

I'm sure the ratio will move up as time goes on.

Good luck with your surgery Jim. I wish you a speedy recovery.

73 Steve KS6PD



On Wednesday, February 12, 2014, Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 A while ago, someone postulated about the percentage of KX3 owners who
 might also buy a KXPA100 amp.
 At the time, I though that it sounded a bit high.

 Today I read that KXPA100 #605 had been received, as has KX3 #5485.
 My math shows that only 11% of KX3 owners are also owners of the KXPA100.

 I don't expect this percentage to change much with time, now that (I
 believe) Elecraft has caught up with all of the pre-orders on the KXPA100
 and, certainly, the KX3.
 I also believe that almost everyone who was on the proverbial fence about
 either, has jumped in and ordered at this point.

 It will be interesting to see what the trend is on the 2m module.
 I'm hoping that the big announcement will be made soon, and the gate
 opened for pre-orders on the 2m module; at least, before I go in the
 hospital for surgery on the 24th.

 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 10Mhz IF questions with the latest beta

2014-02-12 Thread Wayne Burdick
Jim,

You can't use FREQ ENT if XVn RF is set to 0, because there's a regular K3 band 
(160 m) that captures that range. You got 490 kHz when you entered 0 using 
FREQ ENT because that the lowest the K3 can tune on 160 m.

If you just switch to your 10-MHz transverter band, then rotate the VFO, you 
should be able to get to the desired frequency. 

Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 12, 2014, at 8:06 PM, Jim AB3CV j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

 Just entered 0 for frequency via buttons and 0.490.00 (MHz) showed up on VFOA
 display.
 
 Can't go below 490.
 
 If I enter via buttons 1 as the frequency I get to 1.000.00 (presumably Mhz)
 but still can't dial below 490.
 
 The 630M band will be 472-479Khz so that won't work.
 
 Plus I was hoping this would work from 10 to 10.5Mhz to allow for SWL
 activity outside the 630M band. 
 
 I've got the general coverage filters.
 
 Thanks
 
 jim ab3cv
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread Mark Petiford
Re:  I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me.Yep, Steve, we 
are on the same cruise, and our boat is floating on the water in my kitchen!  
Just found out today that I may have a water leak in the kitchen under the 
slab.  While they have the slab dug up the wife will be thinking new cabinets, 
countertops, somewhat different layout, etc., etc., etc.  By the time we get 
all of this done, I probably could have bought 10 KXPA100's...maybe 20!I am 
walking around mumbling a very Eeyore-like, Oh me, oh my!MarkKE6BB

From: Stephen Selbergke6...@gmail.com
Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Feb‎ ‎12‎, ‎2014 at ‎8‎:‎25‎ ‎PM
To: Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

Greetings,I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on 
gettingone but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) 
lettingthe bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from 
others4) did I mention finances..
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Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread Ariel Jacala
I am one of those that opted for the KPA500 instead.  I have a Hardrock50 with 
the QSK board which keeps up with the KPA500 quite nicely.   I have the best of 
both worlds 200w on 30m and 500w everywhere else.  My KX3 does yeoman's duty in 
the shack.  The K2 is dedicated to RTTY, JT65 and PSK and occasional phone.  I 
have an SO2R arrangement ready to pounce when the opportunity strikes.  Of 
course I do QRP as well.  I just got a card in the mail from a DX requesting 
confirmation.  How often does that happen?  It was for a QRP contact with Japan 
on 80m.  He was running 1 kW and I was running 5 watts.  He was running an 
FT920 and I was running a KX3.  Most of the time I am running 500w on 80m.  
When propagation is good and the DX is strong - I run 5w.
Ariel NY4G

 Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:12:02 -0800
 From: rv6am...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100
 
 Re:  I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me.Yep, Steve, we 
 are on the same cruise, and our boat is floating on the water in my kitchen!  
 Just found out today that I may have a water leak in the kitchen under the 
 slab.  While they have the slab dug up the wife will be thinking new 
 cabinets, countertops, somewhat different layout, etc., etc., etc.  By the 
 time we get all of this done, I probably could have bought 10 
 KXPA100's...maybe 20!I am walking around mumbling a very Eeyore-like, Oh me, 
 oh my!MarkKE6BB
 
 From: Stephen Selbergke6...@gmail.com
 Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Feb‎ ‎12‎, ‎2014 at ‎8‎:‎25‎ ‎PM
 To: Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100
 
 Greetings,I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on 
 gettingone but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) 
 lettingthe bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from 
 others4) did I mention finances..
 __
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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
  
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[Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100

2014-02-12 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Ariel,

I am also using HR50 and KPA500.  Could you please give me a wiring diagram 
among KX3 + HR50 + KPA500 for my reference?  It will be a piece of useful 
information.

73

Johnny VR2XMC
 


 寄件人︰ Ariel Jacala n...@hotmail.com
收件人︰ Mark Petiford rv6am...@yahoo.com; elecraft reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2014年02月13日 (週四) 2:30 PM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100
  

I am one of those that opted for the KPA500 instead.  I have a Hardrock50 with 
the QSK board which keeps up with the KPA500 quite nicely.   I have the best of 
both worlds 200w on 30m and 500w everywhere else.  My KX3 does yeoman's duty in 
the shack.  The K2 is dedicated to RTTY, JT65 and PSK and occasional phone.  I 
have an SO2R arrangement ready to pounce when the opportunity strikes.  Of 
course I do QRP as well.  I just got a card in the mail from a DX requesting 
confirmation.  How often does that happen?  It was for a QRP contact with Japan 
on 80m.  He was running 1 kW and I was running 5 watts.  He was running an 
FT920 and I was running a KX3.  Most of the time I am running 500w on 80m.  
When propagation is good and the DX is strong - I run 5w.
Ariel NY4G

 Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:12:02 -0800
 From: rv6am...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100
 
 Re:  I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me.Yep, Steve, we 
 are on the same cruise, and our boat is floating on the water in my kitchen!  
 Just found out today that I may have a water leak in the kitchen under the 
 slab.  While they have the slab dug up the wife will be thinking new 
 cabinets, countertops, somewhat different layout, etc., etc., etc.  By the 
 time we get all of this done, I probably could have bought 10 
 KXPA100's...maybe 20!I am walking around mumbling a very Eeyore-like, Oh me, 
 oh my!MarkKE6BB
 
 From: Stephen Selbergke6...@gmail.com
 Sent: ‎Wed, ‎Feb‎ ‎12‎, ‎2014 at ‎8‎:‎25‎ ‎PM
 To: Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Percentage of KX3 owners who bought a KXPA100
 
 Greetings,I'm sure a number of people are in the same boat as me. I plan on 
 gettingone but am holding off for now for a few reasons. 1) finances 2) 
 lettingthe bulk of the bugs get worked out 3) waiting to hear feedback from 
 others4) did I mention finances..
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
 This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/
 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

                          
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 TX EQ menu feature

2014-02-12 Thread F5LCI
I would look at the Macros utility, but I am not an expert.
72'



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