Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Cooler KXT Aftermarket KX3 Heatsink Upgrade -- Website Grand Opening
I saw (in the archives). TNX. A mighty fine post if I may say so! From: fredem [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n7590564...@n2.nabble.com] Sent: Thursday 26 Jun 2014 0151 To: Gary W. Hvizdak Subject: [KX3] Cooler KXT Aftermarket KX3 Heatsink Upgrade -- Website Grand Opening I am thrilled to announce that I now have a website that's worthy of my premier Cooler KXT product line, of aftermarket KX3 heatsinks. I invite you to visit and check out my products up close; their superiority is evident! The URL is http://www.ve7fmn.ca/ Especially note that the performance of my heatsinks has been independently verified by my customers, who include: a Physicist and an Electrical Engineer. Even though this is my site's grand opening, it is still evolving, with new material being added almost hourly. So, I invite you to stop by again soon to see what's new. --- - - - --- My first production run sold out around the end of May and the second run is currently in paint. Painted units will begin shipping next week, while Clear Chromate Conversion undercoated and raw/unfinished units are already shipping from stock. I hope to reduce if not completely eliminate the need for backordering between future production runs. Cheers 73, Fred VE7FMN Simply Better Manufacturing P.S. Grateful thanks to K7ADD, KI4GGX, 5B4AIY, G4GOC, W3FPR, K7PEH, W6ELA, and others for their contributions to this project. _ If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Cooler-KXT-Aftermarket-KX3-Heatsink -Upgrade-Website-Grand-Opening-tp7590564.html This email was sent by fredem http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=user_no desuser=314378 (via Nabble) To receive all replies by email, subscribe to this discussion http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=subscri be_by_codenode=7590564code=Z2FyeS5odml6ZGFrQGNmbC5yci5jb218NzU5MDU2NHw2OTk wMzEzMzQ= -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/RE-KX3-Cooler-KXT-Aftermarket-KX3-Heatsink-Upgrade-Website-Grand-Opening-tp7590566.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler
Sorry, I didn't give you a link, I assumed you knew the web site: http://www.remoterig.com 73, Mitch DJ0QN Mitch Wolfson DJØQN / K7DX Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436 Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378 On 26.06.2014 01:10, bwru...@gmail.com wrote: I just signed up using the link from Mitch. I cannot post to their forum until I get an email saying I am approved. Brian Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A. From my iPad On Jun 25, 2014, at 7:06 PM, Milt -- N5IA n...@zia-connection.com wrote: Mitch, What is the access to the RemoteRig forum? Milt, N5IA -Original Message- From: Mitch Wolfson DJØQN Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 3:57 PM To: bwru...@gmail.com ; Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler Brian, You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the developers monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft). 73, Mitch DJ0QN Mitch Wolfson DJØQN / K7DX Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436 Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378 - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4714 / Virus Database: 3986/7742 - Release Date: 06/25/14 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Apology
Sorry for my previous post. I thought it was an off Reflector reply directly to VE7FMN. (Apparently, that's what happens when you're CC'd on a Reflector post!) --- - - - --- While I'm writing, I heard from INRAD a few hours ago that the next batch of 700 Hz K3 filters has shipped from Japan well ahead of the date we were expecting. The batch still needs to: clear customs; be processed by INRAD; and travel from the west coast to Ken -- so the best I can say right now, is that Ken will have them in roughly two or three weeks. This is an especially small batch as our aim is to squeeze in yet another production run in time for the December holiday buying season. My point being that they'll probably sell out much quicker than usual, possibly by early August. Please visit http://www.unpcbs.com/ for full details. 73, Gary KI4GGX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Companion, does it work?
Have anybody got the KX3 Companion App for Android to work? http://kx3companion.com/ I downloaded the app and tryed it, but the app locks up i after TX. Also, the App has a 4 seconds delay after the last text is sent, and there doesn't seem to be possible to adjust this delay. Due to these flaws, the app is unusable for me. I have tryed the both with my Sony Xperia Z phone and my Samsung Tab 2 7 and with 4 different OTG cables, and the app locks up after TX on all devices. Have anybody else got the KX3 Companion app to work OK? Martin Storli LA8OKA Oslo, Norway ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Companion, does it work?
Martin, I cannot make any comments about the app locking up after TX, but I can comment on the 4 second delay - I assume you are using data modes. When sending data modes that originate as ASCII text, the KX3 (and K3) have a 4 second hang time to allow for interruptions in typing. To terminate immediately, end your text string with the | character. This character will be interpreted by the KX3 as an immediate stop. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/26/2014 6:50 AM, Martin Storli - LA8OKA wrote: Have anybody got the KX3 Companion App for Android to work? http://kx3companion.com/ I downloaded the app and tryed it, but the app locks up i after TX. Also, the App has a 4 seconds delay after the last text is sent, and there doesn't seem to be possible to adjust this delay. Due to these flaws, the app is unusable for me. I have tryed the both with my Sony Xperia Z phone and my Samsung Tab 2 7 and with 4 different OTG cables, and the app locks up after TX on all devices. Have anybody else got the KX3 Companion app to work OK? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
Don't rule out traps. Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld wire that has a black polyethylene insulation. If I remember correctly, it is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas. For all practical purposes, it doesn't stretch, is fairly slippery and only a little springier than hard drawn copper. I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for flexible wire cable to hold everything together. I was concerned about them holding through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up for about ten years now. It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160 80 M coverage and a pair of 40 meter traps in the lower leg for 60 40 M coverage. It is fed thru a 1:1 balun with RG-213 and is tuned for resonance. Basically, I operate SSB 99% of the time, so the antenna is tuned for that end of the bands. An MN-2700 tuner in the shack takes care of small excursions from resonance. It's only up about 50 feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not straight either and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' telephone poles that are 105 feet apart. The ends droop down at about 45 degrees to tie-off points in trees. A compromise? Yes, but it works. 73, Charlie k3ICH - Original Message - From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote: So, I've been selecting two of the tallest candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope between them. In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees, thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side, and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends. In one variation on the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee. In another I tried a linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't perform as well as the full length version. If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator? Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good antenna, and is easy to build. My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element. The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213. For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen. My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, and 6M works pretty well. For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander. http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
This is an interesting discussion about antennas for forest regions where you have very tall trees. I have a lot of trees, but getting an antenna to 45 or 50 feet would involve very small branches. I have mostly Chinese Tallow Trees with some Ash and Beech, so stringing a wire from trees is marginal for me. I do have a 65 foot tower and conductive soil, so the trombone elements from SteppIR work well for me. You will be surprised how directive a rotatable dipole at 65 feet can be for 30 and 40 with 6 to 10 dB nulls at the ends and not much loss over a full dipole. A 60 foot wire vertical from a ground stake to the top guy is a good 80 meter antenna and if you add an 80 meter trap and a drooping extension it pretty good for 160. I have lived near a neighbor with 100 foot pine trees and I have seen them leaning nearly 45 degrees in 100 mile an hour winds during Hurricane Alicia. I think a wire antenna would break. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart On Thursday, June 26, 2014 12:57 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote: So, I've been selecting two of the tallest candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope between them. In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees, thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side, and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends. In one variation on the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee. In another I tried a linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't perform as well as the full length version. If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator? Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good antenna, and is easy to build. My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element. The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213. For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen. My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, and 6M works pretty well. For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander. http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to wrco...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions
I'd very much like to see a response from Elecraft on this one; perhaps they are running some tests of their own? If proven, maybe some sort of hardware solution is needed. It would be a pity for the technical problem to be lost beneath a debate on slang terms. 73 Dave G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Companion, does it work?
Do not think the lock up is due to the app, but rather to interference on the connection between the KX3 and the tablet/ phone. An opto isolator should eliminate this. I had a similar problem with both HC and other Amateur software. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Companion-does-it-work-tp7590569p7590574.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Slide switches terminology
The proper name for the power switch type used in gear such as the SB-200 is Rocker Switch. There, that's off my chest. 73, RoyK6XK --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]
One of my Elmers showed me another way. Purposley choose the twig ends of the branch of a huge tree. Use this as your center of the dipole, or whatever. Blow a line all the way over the tree, and attach it to something other than the tree. Pull up the antenna, and leave rope line going down from the center point. Once you get the center where you want it, tie the dangling rope to something solid, like a Land Anchor. Pull the other side and tie it down to something solid as well, like another Land Anchor, or even the base of another tree. Now your center point is suspended towards the outside of a tree branch, and will not move up and down, as you have it anchored from above, and below even when the wind blows. Use the ends of the antenna to stop the antenna from moving side to side. The trick is not allowing the centerpoint to twist before you get the ends stretched out. Keith KB9WMJ - Original Message - From: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net To: Doug Person k0...@aol.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 12:19 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT] Hi Doug: I use a similar technique in suspending my antennas. I thought I would add some do's and don'ts. Like don't forget copper will stretch. I use 1 gallon paint buckets full of dirt for about 10# of weight on the pulleys. I suspend the rope in a tree yoke or a limb close to the trunk to minimize sway. Be sure there is pleanty of travel for wind storms. The ends of the antenna are 'hotter' than the feed point so I like to clear the end of the antenna and the tree with at least 8' of rope. If I have a middle support I use a yard arm of at least 4'. If you are using an antenna like a G5RV, Windom, or zepp that uses a portion of the feed line as a match, don't forget that portion will be radiating too so keep it vertical and away from the tree. I have found pine and eucalyptus trees to be the worst for parasitic absorption but I think that is largely a function of the volume of sap and water so the wetter the more loss and the further away you want to keep the antenna. 73, Fred, AE6QL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Vedr: KX3 Companion, does it work?
The lock up happens even with 0 watt out to a dummy load, so I don't think that interference is an issue here. Martin Storli LA8OKA Oslo, Norway ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm Fra: Bob N3MNT b...@hogbytes.com Til: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sendt: Torsdag, 26. juni 2014 14.49 Emne: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Companion, does it work? Do not think the lock up is due to the app, but rather to interference on the connection between the KX3 and the tablet/ phone. An opto isolator should eliminate this. I had a similar problem with both HC and other Amateur software. -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Companion-does-it-work-tp7590569p7590574.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arcticp...@yahoo.no __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Companion, does it work?
Martin and All, Yes, I think KX3 Companion does work. Shortly after it was first released, I downloaded it onto my Motorola Droid Maxx. Once I obtained the OTG cable (not easy to find locally), I hooked it up to my KX3, and it seemed to work very well. I haven't really had a chance to use the program very much, but I also have connected a bluetooth keyboard to simplify the typing process. I think there may be an update to the KX3 Companion program which I have not yet downloaded. Possibly there is a glitch in that which may be giving you a problem??? I would think the program would work well on your Samsung. Anyway, I can tell you that it should work, so keep trying. Someone else may have better info to pass on to you. Dave W7AQK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Vedr: [KX3] KX3 Companion, does it work?
I downloaded the latest full version from Google Play. On my Sony Xperia Z the android version i 4.4.2. I don't have the Samsung Galaxy Tab2 where I am right now. I'm not using any external PA, and I don't think interference is an issue since the behaviour is the same even when connected to a dummy load and the KX3 set to 0 watt output. I'm using the SEND button in the App. I can't see any XMIT button in the App. I hope the problems can be solved, because it will be so great for portable operation! Martin Storli LA8OKA Oslo, Norway ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm Fra: Andrea IU4APC iu4...@yahoo.com [KX3] k...@yahoogroups.com Til: k...@yahoogroups.com k...@yahoogroups.com Kopi: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sendt: Torsdag, 26. juni 2014 13.23 Emne: Re: [KX3] KX3 Companion, does it work? Hi Martin, are you using the latest version? Free or Full version? Which version of Android are you running? Are you using the external PA? About sending... are you using the SEND or XMIT mode? In any case... later today I'll release an updated version dedicated to Field Day with improvements on the logging side. More about it later. 73, Andrea IU4APC http://kx3companion.com/ Il giorno 26/giu/2014, alle ore 12:50, Martin Storli - LA8OKA arcticp...@yahoo.no [KX3] k...@yahoogroups.com ha scritto: Have anybody got the KX3 Companion App for Android to work? http://kx3companion.com/ I downloaded the app and tryed it, but the app locks up i after TX. Also, the App has a 4 seconds delay after the last text is sent, and there doesn't seem to be possible to adjust this delay. Due to these flaws, the app is unusable for me. I have tryed the both with my Sony Xperia Z phone and my Samsung Tab 2 7 and with 4 different OTG cables, and the app locks up after TX on all devices. Have anybody else got the KX3 Companion app to work OK? Martin Storli LA8OKA Oslo, Norway ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm __._,_.___ Posted by: Andrea IU4APC iu4...@yahoo.com Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New Topic • Messages in this topic (2) Visit Your Group* New Members 17* New Photos 6 • Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use . __,_._,___ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] New KX3 Fast-Play feature (1-touch message play/repeat)
Hi all, I've added an experimental fast-play mode to the KX3 to allow play/repeat of message buffers 1, 2, and 3 with a single switch press (1 and 2 in the case of voice modes, which use the built-in digital voice recorder). In this mode, you don't have to tap MSG first. The K2 has a similar feature; the K3 doesn't need it since it has 4 dedicated message switches. Since the normal message-play buttons (1-6) all have primary functions that are heavily used, I selected a different set of switches for fast play: BAND+, BAND-, and FREQ ENT. During contesting, the tap and hold functions of these switches are rarely used once you've selected a band. So they're arguably a good choice for fast-play. To enable Fast-Play: Hold the REC switch for about 3 seconds. This selects Fast-Play mode, displaying the message FAST PLAY (BAND+/-, FREQ ENT) as a reminder that the three upper-left switches will instantly play/repeat messages 1, 2, and 3. To disable Fast-Play: Hold REC for about 3 seconds again, OR turn power off/on. (Fast-Play mode is not sticky. A power off/on must cancel it in case the operator gets into it accidentally.) I expect to have the new firmware ready soon. If you're interested in trying it out, please email me directly. If all goes well it may be posted on our web site as beta later today. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
The K9YC modelling with EZNEC http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf is quite interesting. Certainly has me thinking about vertical dipoles. The half-wave end-fed looks like the perfect candidate for a simple vertical dipole. Doug -- K0DXV On 6/25/14, 11:55 PM, Jim Brown wrote: On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote: So, I've been selecting two of the tallest candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope between them. In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees, thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side, and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends. In one variation on the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee. In another I tried a linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't perform as well as the full length version. If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator? Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good antenna, and is easy to build. My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element. The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213. For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen. My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, and 6M works pretty well. For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander. http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron rope that was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, actually). The extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k0...@aol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
For pre-built antennas, HyPower is a good choice. He has lots of options, fan dipoles, loaded dipoles, even combinations. I have a fan dipole made from a full-size 40m element and an element that is full-size for 80 and loaded for 80. He also sells the loading coils if you would rather DIY. http://www.hypowerantenna.com/ wunder K6WRU On Jun 26, 2014, at 5:30 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote: Don't rule out traps. Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld wire that has a black polyethylene insulation. If I remember correctly, it is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas. For all practical purposes, it doesn't stretch, is fairly slippery and only a little springier than hard drawn copper. I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for flexible wire cable to hold everything together. I was concerned about them holding through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up for about ten years now. It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160 80 M coverage and a pair of 40 meter traps in the lower leg for 60 40 M coverage. It is fed thru a 1:1 balun with RG-213 and is tuned for resonance. Basically, I operate SSB 99% of the time, so the antenna is tuned for that end of the bands. An MN-2700 tuner in the shack takes care of small excursions from resonance. It's only up about 50 feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not straight either and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' telephone poles that are 105 feet apart. The ends droop down at about 45 degrees to tie-off points in trees. A compromise? Yes, but it works. 73, Charlie k3ICH - Original Message - From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote: So, I've been selecting two of the tallest candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope between them. In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees, thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side, and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends. In one variation on the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee. In another I tried a linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't perform as well as the full length version. If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator? Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good antenna, and is easy to build. My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element. The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213. For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen. My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, and 6M works pretty well. For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander. http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
That's a good and useful presentation. Although they don't affect Jim's vertical vs. horizontal conclusions, slides 22, 26, and 73 contain errors confusing quarter- and half wavelengths for 160/80/40 meters (i.e. 133 ft is a quarter wave on 160, not a half wave). John, KU4AF Pittsboro, NC Elecraft mailing list wrote The K9YC modelling with EZNEC lt;http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdfgt; is quite interesting. Certainly has me thinking about vertical dipoles. The half-wave end-fed looks like the perfect candidate for a simple vertical dipole. Doug -- K0DXV -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/RF-in-the-Trees-tp7590553p7590582.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Affordable Heatsink
Johnny I too am using one of John's KB8UHN heatsinks. My first impression is the quality and price. I opted for the unpainted version and I like the way it matches the KX3 lettering and contrasts the black. I have not used it in heavy digital transmitting but this weekend. It fits well with my Sidex add on and cover and my KX-3 still fits nicely in my Crown Royal bag sleeve. hi hi Bill J K7BRR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
On 6/26/2014 9:17 AM, KU4AF wrote: Although they don't affect Jim's vertical vs. horizontal conclusions, slides 22, 26, and 73 contain errors confusing quarter- and half wavelengths for 160/80/40 meters (i.e. 133 ft is a quarter wave on 160, not a half wave). Thanks John. I had fixed that at least a month ago, but the corrected version didn't get to the website correctly. It's corrected now. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
I have used trees to hang wire in the past. Now I use metal trees i.e. Rohn-25 and Rohn-45 metal trees. Much easier to climb and they do not sway near as much. Truthfully, the forest does not reach much higher than50-60 feet in my part of Alaska. We get 50-60 mph winds each year (mainly in Nov-Dec) which lays the native white spruce and birch trees over to about 30 to 45 degrees off plumb and no pulley system will handle that violence. I had my anemometer blown off one of the towers last winter. I guess it registered 65 when I came apart. Just got a phone call, yesterday, that it had been rebuilt and on its way back from the factory. Two falls ago we had some of the 60-foot spruce blown over that were pulled out by the roots! Had heavy rain for two months beforehand that softened the soil. I have two 50-foot ROHN-25 spaced 130 foot ad run an inverted-L between them and a 80/40m inverted-V hung from 40-feet on one at right angles to the inverted-L (which is tuned to 600m). We have one member of the ARRL Experimental Group on 600m that has actually loaded a pine tree to act as a vertical antenna, He wrapped a huge amount of wire around the base of the tree as a coupling coil. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Kits made by KL7UW Dubus Mag business: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions
Dave Lankshear d...@lanks.plus.com wrote: I'd very much like to see a response from Elecraft on this one Hi Dave, It may be possible to further reduce emissions, and we'll post if we have any new information. Some external cable treatments were suggested to the original poster by the world's leading authority on such issues. We added a 60-MHz low-pass filter right at the KX3's output early on, though the current issue isn't related to the antenna jack. A word on design compromises: The KX3 is a very small all-band/all-mode radio with a high degree of integration, intended for lightweight field use. To hit our size/weight/cost targets, we chose to use miniature PCB-mount connectors where practical, and did not go overboard on internal or external shielding. We did use state-of-the-art multi-layer PCB design techniques, which provides a significant shielding effect for RF paths. As a result, the KX3 passed all required tests, and very few of the thousands of KX3 owners have had any issue with emissions. That said, if solutions to specific problems become practical, we will test and document them and make components available. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3: Data A Mode on 6M
I've been using WSJT-X for JT65 and JT9 on the HF bands for several months with my K3, along with cocoaModem for PSK31. All three modes were set up with the rig in Data A mode and everything worked fine. I'd like to try JT65 on six meters but I'm seeing a different display on the K3 - it was always going into REV when I set it to DATA A. I can switch it out of REV mode easily enough but I'm wondering why it defaulted to that? I have seldom operated on this band and did not intentionally set it to REV. How is is supposed to be set up for normal DATA A on six meters? Thanks, Jim / W6JHB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Data A Mode on 6M
Jim, The K3 uses up-conversion 6 m, which inverts the sidebands. It should stay in NORM data mode on 6 meters once you've un-reversed it using the ALT switch. 73 Wayne Six http://www.elecraft.com On Jun 26, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote: I've been using WSJT-X for JT65 and JT9 on the HF bands for several months with my K3, along with cocoaModem for PSK31. All three modes were set up with the rig in Data A mode and everything worked fine. I'd like to try JT65 on six meters but I'm seeing a different display on the K3 - it was always going into REV when I set it to DATA A. I can switch it out of REV mode easily enough but I'm wondering why it defaulted to that? I have seldom operated on this band and did not intentionally set it to REV. How is is supposed to be set up for normal DATA A on six meters? Thanks, Jim / W6JHB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Data A Mode on 6M
Yes - I reversed it and it does stay in normal mode. Thanks Wayne! On Thursday, Jun 26, 2014, at Thursday, 11:41 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote: Jim, The K3 uses up-conversion 6 m, which inverts the sidebands. It should stay in NORM data mode on 6 meters once you've un-reversed it using the ALT switch. 73 Wayne Six http://www.elecraft.com On Jun 26, 2014, at 11:34 AM, Jim Bennett w6...@mac.com wrote: I've been using WSJT-X for JT65 and JT9 on the HF bands for several months with my K3, along with cocoaModem for PSK31. All three modes were set up with the rig in Data A mode and everything worked fine. I'd like to try JT65 on six meters but I'm seeing a different display on the K3 - it was always going into REV when I set it to DATA A. I can switch it out of REV mode easily enough but I'm wondering why it defaulted to that? I have seldom operated on this band and did not intentionally set it to REV. How is is supposed to be set up for normal DATA A on six meters? Thanks, Jim / W6JHB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to w6...@me.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
My only method of raising wire into the air to act as dipoles (actually fan dipoles) are trees -- nice tall straight trees. In my case, Douglas Fir, Red Cedar, and Hemlock. Each tree is about 80 to 95 feet tall. I don't climb these trees though. All antennas launched via bow arrow with heavy fishing line that lifts up dacron line that lifts up insulated #12 house wire. One of my antennas is a 80/40 fan dipole with a home-made balun at the center (created with the help of Jim's, K9YC, RFI paper). The other is a 30-meter dipole. Wires up about 50 feet elevation. Never have had a problem and I have only had one break and I think that was caused by a squirrel looking for food inside of 3/8th Dacron line wrapped over the top of a tree branch. No problem, I'm getting pretty good with the bow arrow method of launching. 73, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
Jim's presentation is excellent, covering lots of trade-offs that most of us face putting up antennas. There are a couple (at least) other aspects that should be considered. I've been using an end fed half wave vertical for several years with my K1 for portable ops. It's easy to put up on a 33 ft fiberglass pole and covers 40, 30, and 20 using loading coils on the lower bands. I couple it to the 50 ohm feed line using a link coupled tuned tank circuit to accommodate the very high feed point impedance. Since that impedance can be in the k-ohms, and the voltages involved increase as the square of the power, this setup is strictly a QRP deal. If I try to use more than about 20 w the toroid in the coupler begins to arc like a Tesla coil. The other thing I have encountered with verticals vs horizontal antennas in an urban environment is that verticals are inherently noisier. For weak signal situations (QRP Fox Hunts) I've compared the above vertical with my inverted V and found that the V wins out on receive SNR most of the time. I've noticed the same thing comparing vertical vs horizontal feed setups on a 20 m delta loop I had up for a while. 73, Brian, K0DTJ On 6/26/2014 7:59 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote: Certainly has me thinking about vertical dipoles. The half-wave end-fed looks like the perfect candidate for a simple vertical dipole. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
On 6/26/2014 1:38 PM, Brian Hunt wrote: I've been using an end fed half wave vertical for several years with my K1 for portable ops. EFHW's are very popular with the Summits On The Air crowd, and there are several varieties of transformers that will get the impedance down to what the ATU in a QRP rig can handle. Some have added links for band change, KT5X has a trapped EFHW. The other thing I have encountered with verticals vs horizontal antennas in an urban environment is that verticals are inherently noisier. True ... not always, but as a rule of thumb from many years ago, a vertical will likely be noisier. I have a GAP Titan up on the roof that I use for the top two WARC bands mostly. My other two wires will radiate but because the antennas are large compared to the wavelength, they tend to squirt my RF in all sorts of useless directions. There are times, however, that the vertical is as quiet as the tribander on 20m. I'm always amazed at how well my magnetic loop works when in the field. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote: I'm getting pretty good with the bow arrow method === For years I used a slingshot, firing a weight attached to a spinning reel. Worked pretty good. But last year I bought one of these gadgets: http://www.kr4loairboss.com/ It has a certain gee-whiz factor that makes you feel like a naughty kid. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
I have a theory about this. Compare a vertical to a dipole. One reason for additional noise is that a vertical is omnidirectional, and noise comes from all directions. The signal is coming from one direction, and if it is the right direction, then the 2.2 dB gain from directivity of a dipole improves the s/n ratio by that much. But subjectively the difference seems greater than this. It's also true that the vertical is better for signals off the side of the dipole. As Brian said, most verticals appear to be far noisier in urban environments where there is a lot of manmade noise. I believe that this is /not/ because manmade noise tends to be vertically polarized, as is often said. I believe that it is because most verticals are not adequately decoupled from the feedline. Therefore, manmade noise is picked up on the outside of the feedline and flows directly into the antenna. This is exactly the same problem that happens with a dipole without a balun. Therefore the solution to the problem may be a good choke 'balun' at the vertical's feedpoint. On 6/26/14 1:38 PM, Brian Hunt wrote: The other thing I have encountered with verticals vs horizontal antennas in an urban environment is that verticals are inherently noisier. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] A product that would revolutionize ham radio
On 6/16/14 at 6:21 PM, estept...@gmail.com (Tony Estep) wrote: I suppose they could do some market research. One data point would be to survey how many KX3 owners have rigged theirs up with a whip and made it into a porta-station I admit getting a BNC whip antenna so I can use my KX3 on 6 meters. It can hit the local repeater, but will probably work better with a counterpose. 73 Bill AE6JV - Bill Frantz| When it comes to the world | Periwinkle (408)356-8506 | around us, is there any choice | 16345 Englewood Ave www.pwpconsult.com | but to explore? - Lisa Randall | Los Gatos, CA 95032 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the US The problem with the bow or slingshot is when (if) the projectile comes down. The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it down. Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day. The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be equally dangerous. Accurate shots are challenging. Here is what I use (no pecuniary interest) and it solves those issues. http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html It is simple to use, moderately safe (standard weapon rules about pointing etc) and accurate shots are simple. I've used it to clear (and then some) 200' trees. A weighted tennis ball (of a BRIGHT color so it can be seen) is simple to make an accurate shot; can pass through, then be pulled to earth by the increased mass. If you clear the tree and want to shorten the flight path, simply touching the fishing line stops momentum immediately, the ball falls. So there are several options, some safer than others, some more expensive and they all work. What works best for you is the choice but please be safe and wear a hardhat. I've also seen someone using the antenna launcher to shoot tennis balls for their dog to chase. A 100 yard shot is pretty easily done. By the time the (tiring) dog came back with the ball, the launcher was ready to shoot again. 73, Rick, WA6NHC iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-) On Jun 26, 2014, at 3:02 PM, Tony Estep estept...@gmail.com wrote: On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote: I'm getting pretty good with the bow arrow method === For years I used a slingshot, firing a weight attached to a spinning reel. Worked pretty good. But last year I bought one of these gadgets: http://www.kr4loairboss.com/ It has a certain gee-whiz factor that makes you feel like a naughty kid. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to happymooseph...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
I wonder if anyone's ever used a kite in a field to keep a wire up. I see kites a lot in the summer, along belt parkway here in Brooklyn and they seem to stay in one place for long periods of time. I'm sure one can use 12 or 14 AWG wire and let a kite carry it pretty high. Of course you need wind for that but being near water (salt water, no less) there's usually wind present. Hmm. Another idea that may be used to place a wire with a lot of precision is one of those RC quadricopters that are becoming wildly popular. A little servo claw to release the wire or just to place it's apex where you want it... __ Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS w2...@arrl.net On Jun 26, 2014, at 7:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC happymooseph...@gmail.com wrote: This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the US The problem with the bow or slingshot is when (if) the projectile comes down. The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it down. Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day. The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be equally dangerous. Accurate shots are challenging. Here is what I use (no pecuniary interest) and it solves those issues. http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html It is simple to use, moderately safe (standard weapon rules about pointing etc) and accurate shots are simple. I've used it to clear (and then some) 200' trees. A weighted tennis ball (of a BRIGHT color so it can be seen) is simple to make an accurate shot; can pass through, then be pulled to earth by the increased mass. If you clear the tree and want to shorten the flight path, simply touching the fishing line stops momentum immediately, the ball falls. So there are several options, some safer than others, some more expensive and they all work. What works best for you is the choice but please be safe and wear a hardhat. I've also seen someone using the antenna launcher to shoot tennis balls for their dog to chase. A 100 yard shot is pretty easily done. By the time the (tiring) dog came back with the ball, the launcher was ready to shoot again. 73, Rick, WA6NHC iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-) On Jun 26, 2014, at 3:02 PM, Tony Estep estept...@gmail.com wrote: On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote: I'm getting pretty good with the bow arrow method === For years I used a slingshot, firing a weight attached to a spinning reel. Worked pretty good. But last year I bought one of these gadgets: http://www.kr4loairboss.com/ It has a certain gee-whiz factor that makes you feel like a naughty kid. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to happymooseph...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to sla...@nullserv.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions
Hi, The #61 ferrite torroids and snap-ons arrived today. I've confirmed that the sproggies I'm receiving in my other radios aren't being picked up in the near field of my KX3 by relocating the entirely disconnected KX3 to the other end of (my admittedly small, terraced) house, and the strength of the spurii remain roughly the same. I've also taken the KX3 upstairs to within 8ft of the discone in the loft and have seen the strength of the same specific sproggy increase by about 20dB. My I/Q cable assembly includes a short adapter with a 2.5mm plug and in-line 3.5mm socket, followed by an inline stereo line-isolator and then on to to the extension cable to the PC (all other connections being with 3.5mm TRS other than the one on the rig). The torroids I bought are Fair-Rite 5961001201, I got 5. I am able to get 2 turns around the torroid with the short 2.5/3.5mm adapter, which when straight is about 6 inches long. Without nothing connected to the KX3, I'm seeing the spur on 389.4MHz at about -68dB, as observed on my USRP using my loft discone. The noise floor is about -80dB. Plugging in the adapter without the 2 turn choke boosts the receive signal to about -46dB. Plugging in the adapter with the 2 turn choke puts the spur at about -65dB, about 20dB improvement than without the choke (how much the bunching of the cable into a small bundle contributes to this I don't know). After connecting up the full compliment of cables and liberally scattering the remaining 4 #61 torroids and 6 snap-ons around the rest of the KX3's own personal rats-nest, the spur is at about -61dB, around 20dB over the noise floor in the USRP (sampling at 125kHz). This is a decent improvement, over the same setup without the benefit of the #61 ferrite, but I think there's still some way to go before satisfaction is achieved. Also, it should be remembered that this is just a spot check on a single frequency. I have good reason to suspect that there are other sproggies related to this fundamental, and then a vast range of other fundamentals to consider, all equally likely to generate some cruft in undesirable places. I have no idea yet how effective the ferrite is at taming the full spectrum of unwanted emissions. I will have time to investigate further over the coming weekend. If there was a way to nail this inside the KX3 box, I would be very grateful. I've often thought that an optical SPDIF interface for the I/Q output would have made sense. Cheers, 73 Darren, G0HWW On 26/06/14 19:07, Wayne Burdick wrote: Dave Lankshear d...@lanks.plus.com wrote: I'd very much like to see a response from Elecraft on this one Hi Dave, It may be possible to further reduce emissions, and we'll post if we have any new information. Some external cable treatments were suggested to the original poster by the world's leading authority on such issues. We added a 60-MHz low-pass filter right at the KX3's output early on, though the current issue isn't related to the antenna jack. A word on design compromises: The KX3 is a very small all-band/all-mode radio with a high degree of integration, intended for lightweight field use. To hit our size/weight/cost targets, we chose to use miniature PCB-mount connectors where practical, and did not go overboard on internal or external shielding. We did use state-of-the-art multi-layer PCB design techniques, which provides a significant shielding effect for RF paths. As a result, the KX3 passed all required tests, and very few of the thousands of KX3 owners have had any issue with emissions. That said, if solutions to specific problems become practical, we will test and document them and make components available. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to darren.l...@mac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the US The problem with the bow or slingshot is when (if) the projectile comes down. The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it down. Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day. The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be equally dangerous. Accurate shots are challenging. In my case, the arrows I shoot up into and over trees always land on my property and I am the only one on my property at the time. So, not much chance of hurting anyone. I don't think my bow has enough power to launch an arrow off of my property. Not that my property is that great, more that my bow is not that powerful (30 lb maximum pull). It is just good enough to launch up into and over my trees. I have never had an arrow get hung up in branches in all of my experience with the bow. I think maybe I am just lucky though. 73, phil, K7PEH __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote: This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the US It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, which we do at times. :-) The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it down. Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day. I wrapped some heavy, old solder I had around the arrow tip in two layers, and then wrapped that with electrical tape. So far, it's always come down ... sometimes takes a little while with wind moving the branches. The two layers of solder make the tip very blunt, impalement is unlikely, bruise maybe if you don't have a hat on. Regardless of how you do it, my experience is that an Inv-V with the apex pulled up close to a limb but with the legs pulled out from the tree works just fine. It's hard to beat a horizontal 80m dipole with the center between two 90 ft pine or fir trees more than a wavelength apart, but sometimes we obsess about antennae minutiae. The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be equally dangerous. Accurate shots are challenging. Arrow works better for me in the field, but the slingshot is a lot smaller and lighter. There's a reason arrows are long although the sling worked for David, I guess. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] RF in the Trees
Now THAT is what being a ham is about! OK, my part in this thread is over. Loading a tree can't be topped. Ted, KN1CBR We have one member of the ARRL Experimental Group on 600m that has actually loaded a pine tree to act as a vertical antenna, He wrapped a huge amount of wire around the base of the tree as a coupling coil. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com Kits made by KL7UW Dubus Mag business: dubus...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
On 6/26/2014 4:24 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: I wonder if anyone's ever used a kite in a field to keep a wire up. I see kites a lot in the summer, along belt parkway here in Brooklyn and they seem to stay in one place for long periods of time. I'm sure one can use 12 or 14 AWG wire and let a kite carry it pretty high. Of course you need wind for that but being near water (salt water, no less) there's usually wind present. Hmm. The original German Notsender, forerunner of the WW2 Gibson Girl emergency beacon [AN/CRT-5] used a folded box kite, launched by a rocket from an inflatable raft ... let's see -- rocket in an inflatable raft, this conjures up many scenarios, most of them bad. The CRT-5 operated on the Holy Frequency [600 meters] and had a weighted copper braid to drop overboard into the salt water, and the ones we had used balloons inflated with hydrogen to lift the antenna. That was problematical in anything but a dead calm. I doubt most kites in most situations would handle #12 or even #14 wire, the high part of the wire ends up being a long way up toward the kite. Another idea that may be used to place a wire with a lot of precision is one of those RC quadricopters that are becoming wildly popular. A little servo claw to release the wire or just to place it's apex where you want it Monofilament line, sounds like a great idea! Pull a Dacron line up and then the wire. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
Hmmm. Interesting theory Vic. I agree that ambient noise probably doesn't have any particular polarization. My dipoles clearly have less noise pickup than my verticals. I do have a Cushcraft MV-6 compact vertical on top of the garage which has a balun as part of its design and it's noise level seems lower than the ground mounted verticals. But, it also has negative gain compared to a dipole or a full-size vertical. I was planning an experiment consisting of a full size vertical radiator made of aluminum tubing and two horizontal ground planes made of carefully tuned ham sticks. Now, I'll be sure to feed it through a good current balun to insure the feedline is fully decoupled. Another experiment on the summer agenda is a full-wave loop configured as a vertical rectangle to produce a 50 ohm feed point. I've read that a full wave loop is much better at rejecting noise and produces a lower angle of radiation for a given height than a dipole. I'd love to put up a quad, but $600 is a bit much right now. A full wave loop costs almost nothing by comparison. I'm wondering if perhaps a delta loop could be effective as a portable radiator for the KX3. An inverted triangle fed from the bottom apex seems simple enough. With summer finally here it is time to pull out the boxes of wire, coax and insulators and see what sort of interesting things to build. Doug -- K0DXV On 6/26/14, 4:07 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote: I have a theory about this. Compare a vertical to a dipole. One reason for additional noise is that a vertical is omnidirectional, and noise comes from all directions. The signal is coming from one direction, and if it is the right direction, then the 2.2 dB gain from directivity of a dipole improves the s/n ratio by that much. But subjectively the difference seems greater than this. It's also true that the vertical is better for signals off the side of the dipole. As Brian said, most verticals appear to be far noisier in urban environments where there is a lot of manmade noise. I believe that this is /not/ because manmade noise tends to be vertically polarized, as is often said. I believe that it is because most verticals are not adequately decoupled from the feedline. Therefore, manmade noise is picked up on the outside of the feedline and flows directly into the antenna. This is exactly the same problem that happens with a dipole without a balun. Therefore the solution to the problem may be a good choke 'balun' at the vertical's feedpoint. On 6/26/14 1:38 PM, Brian Hunt wrote: The other thing I have encountered with verticals vs horizontal antennas in an urban environment is that verticals are inherently noisier. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier
I have a K3 and a P3 which are 'daisy-chained' to the computer in the normal manner. I am thinking of getting an SPE amplifier and am wondering how to connect its RS-232 port into the mix. Is there some kind of splitter or router that will add it in? Or some other method? Thanks in advance. 73, Bill W6WRT dez...@outlook.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
Short wave listeners use kites and baloons to hold up long wire antennas all the time. I did this long before becoming a ham. -- K8JHR -- On 6/26/2014 7:24 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: I wonder if anyone's ever used a kite in a field to keep a wire up. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
I remember that Benjamin Franklin was a short wave listener -- his radio used a rusty key as the detector. His resonant circuit included a Leyden Jar capacitor. He quit this hobby though when, during an electrical storm, his lightning protection failed and destroyed his rig. Embarrassed about making such foolish mistakes, he invented an entirely different story to account for his being out in the storm flying a kite. 73, phil, K7PEH On Jun 26, 2014, at 9:31 PM, K8JHR jricha...@k8jhr.com wrote: Short wave listeners use kites and baloons to hold up long wire antennas all the time. I did this long before becoming a ham. -- K8JHR -- On 6/26/2014 7:24 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote: I wonder if anyone's ever used a kite in a field to keep a wire up. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to phys...@mac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier
The SPE Expert Amp needs a separate connector to the port. It does not do CAT control, but rather connects to a separate program to duplicate the control functions on the front of the amp. For CAT control it connects to the DB-15 Acc connector. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart On Thursday, June 26, 2014 9:03 PM, Bill Turner dez...@outlook.com wrote: I have a K3 and a P3 which are 'daisy-chained' to the computer in the normal manner. I am thinking of getting an SPE amplifier and am wondering how to connect its RS-232 port into the mix. Is there some kind of splitter or router that will add it in? Or some other method? Thanks in advance. 73, Bill W6WRT dez...@outlook.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to wrco...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
