Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread David G4DMP
There is an excellent video magazine here, all about kite antennas in
Great Britain 
http://www.txfilms.co.uk/txfactor/txf003.shtml

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, K8JHR jricha...@k8jhr.com writes
Short wave listeners use kites and baloons to hold up long wire
antennas all the time.   I did this long before becoming a ham.

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions

2014-06-27 Thread Dave
As this message doesn't appear to be on the forum, I guess the attachments 
were the problem, so I'm reposting the original and I've put the attachments 
into my dropbox at


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201002.jpg

Which is with my KX3 switched off and

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201005.jpg

Which is with my KX3 switched on and set to 7.080MHz USB.

Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 9:43 AM

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions



I've just done a couple of tests using an RF Explorer portable spectrum
analyser set to monitor between 15MHz and 614MHz.  I can 'zoom in' if
necessary but kept it wide in the first case to have an overview of as 
wide
a frequency range as possible.  The antenna is the Ngoya NA-773 
144/430MHz

whip antenna supplied with the analyser with the whip fully retracted.The
analyser and fitted antenna are about 15cm (6inches) away from the KX3.

My KX3 has leads plugged into the RX I/Q socket, the Phones socket, the 
ACC1
socket and a 13.8V supply to the 9-15V DC socket.  No cable connected to 
the

ACC2 socket. None of the leads have any RF beads on them, that I can see
anyway.  The DC, ACC1 and RX I/Q leads are the ones suplied by Elecraft.

If the screenshots get taken off before they get onto the reflector, I'll
put them in a dropbox folder and will post a link.

The 1st screenshot shows the situation with the KX3 switched off, date
stamped 27-06-2014 1002. With the KX3 swiched off I see a steady signal at
389.999MHz (-83dBm) and, as the red line shows, there's an occasional 
signal

at 143.571MHz (-78.5dBm).  There's also another occasional signal at
422.142MHz (-78.5dBm).

The second screen shot is with the KX3 switched on, date stamped 
27-06-2014
1005, frequency set to 7.080Mhz USB.  With the KX3 on I am seeing a rise 
in

the noise floor at a whole range of frequencies, but no specific single
frequency spike, other than the ones that I see with the KX3 switched off 
of

course, as yet.

I'll set the analyser to monitor just the VHF/UHF spectrum next and see if 
I

can track any specific carriers down.

Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
From: Darren Long

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com;
j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions



My I/Q cable assembly includes a short adapter with a 2.5mm plug and
in-line
3.5mm socket, followed by an inline stereo line-isolator and then on to 
to

the
extension cable to the PC (all other connections being with 3.5mm TRS
other than
the one on the rig).



Without nothing connected to the KX3, I'm seeing the spur on 389.4MHz at
about
-68dB, as observed on my USRP using my loft discone. The noise floor is
about -80dB.

Plugging in the adapter without the 2 turn choke boosts the receive 
signal

to
about -46dB.





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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Gerry leary
Thanks very much for showing me HYpower Anntennas.  They look very interesting, 
and I am going to call them with questions.  Gerry

Sent from my iPhone this time 

 On Jun 26, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote:
 
 For pre-built antennas, HyPower is a good choice. He has lots of options, fan 
 dipoles, loaded dipoles, even combinations. I have a fan dipole made from a 
 full-size 40m element and an element that is full-size for 80 and loaded for 
 80. He also sells the loading coils if you would rather DIY.
 
 http://www.hypowerantenna.com/
 
 wunder
 K6WRU
 
 On Jun 26, 2014, at 5:30 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:
 
 Don't rule out traps.
 
 Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded copperweld 
 wire that has a black polyethylene insulation.  If I remember correctly, it 
 is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas.  For all practical purposes, it doesn't 
 stretch,  is fairly slippery  and only a little springier than hard drawn 
 copper.
 
 I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for 
 flexible wire cable to hold everything together.  I was concerned about them 
 holding through the poly insulation, but the following antenna has been up 
 for about ten years now.  It consists of a double (fan) dipole with a pair 
 of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160  80 M coverage and a pair of 40 
 meter traps in the lower leg for 60  40 M coverage.  It is fed thru a 1:1 
 balun with RG-213 and is tuned for resonance.  Basically, I operate SSB 99% 
 of the time, so the antenna is tuned for that end of the bands.  An MN-2700 
 tuner in the shack takes care of  small excursions from resonance.  It's 
 only up about 50 feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not 
 straight either and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' 
 telephone poles that are 105 feet apart.  The ends droop down at about 45 
 degrees to tie-off points in trees.  A compromise? Yes, but it works.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
 
 
 On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
 So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
 candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
 between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
 thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
 and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
 the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
 rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
 linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
 perform as well as the full length version.
 
 If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you 
 want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?
 
 Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
 20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
 antenna, and is easy to build.
 
 My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big box 
 store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch until it 
 breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get hurt. Now you 
 have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and pre-stretched. Use 
 that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or #14 THHN (house wire) 
 for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into 
 lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire 
 fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in 
 place by soldering short lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare 
 copper of the long element.
 
 The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should 
 be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 
 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 depending on 
 the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small coax. My 110 ft 
 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.
 
 For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to one 
 end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my trees. 
 If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up on the 
 ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.
 
 My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
 that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants 
 observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is greatest 
 with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort of works, 
 and 6M works pretty well.
 
 For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
 statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander.
 
 

Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Gerry leary
I wonder if the tree hurts during key down?

Sent from my iPhone this time 

 On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:05 PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:
 
 Now THAT is what being a ham is about!
 
 OK, my part in this thread is over.  Loading a tree can't be topped.
 
 Ted, KN1CBR
 
 
 
 We have one member of the ARRL Experimental Group on 600m that has
 actually loaded a pine tree to act as a vertical antenna,  He wrapped
 a huge amount of wire around the base of the tree as a coupling coil.
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions

2014-06-27 Thread Dave
Here are two more screen grabs for KX3 on and off, but just looking at the 
frequency range 100MHz to 500MHz.  Everything else is the same between the 
test done earlier.


KX3 on 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201122.jpg


KX3 off 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201123.jpg


I can't see any additional frequency peaks and moving the VFO on the KX3, or 
changing the band, doesn't appear to make any difference to the display on 
the analyser.


So, I can say that I'm not seeing seeing any distinct frequency spikes, 
which vary as I tune the KX3 VFO up and down, as Darren is seeing from his 
KX3.


Dave (G0DJA) 


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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Dave
I seem to remember seeing some report about loading trees done for the 
military.  I'll see if I can find it again.


Cheers - Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
From: Gerry leary gerrylear...@icloud.com

To: Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



I wonder if the tree hurts during key down?

Sent from my iPhone this time


On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:05 PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:

Now THAT is what being a ham is about!

OK, my part in this thread is over.  Loading a tree can't be topped.

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Dave
Heres the link to the experiments on 600M to load up trees as antennas and 
the page has links to the work done by the military, and other links to 
similar experiments.


http://w5jgv.com/tree_antenna/index.htm

Cheers - Dave (G0DJA)
- Original Message - 
From: Gerry leary gerrylear...@icloud.com

To: Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



I wonder if the tree hurts during key down?

Sent from my iPhone this time


On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:05 PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:

Now THAT is what being a ham is about!

OK, my part in this thread is over.  Loading a tree can't be topped.

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Gerry leary
I do it a little diffeerently.  I tie a rock on the end of the Antenna that 
needs to be in the tree.  Then I lay the wire untangled on the ground.  Then I 
tie the other end to myself so I don't throw the wire where I can't find it.  I 
can't get the heighth I would like, But I don't have to try to find the thrown 
end of the wire later.

Sent from my iPhone this time 

 On Jun 26, 2014, at 5:48 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote:
 
 
 This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in the 
 US
 
 The problem with the bow or slingshot is when (if) the projectile comes 
 down.  
 
 The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and doesn't 
 have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow gravity to pull it 
 down.  Should it comes later, the risks of impalement can ruin the day.
 
 The slingshot can improve over the arrow by increasing mass but can be 
 equally dangerous.  Accurate shots are challenging.
 
 
 In my case, the arrows I shoot up into and over trees always land on my 
 property and I am the only one on my property at the time.  So, not much 
 chance of hurting anyone.  I don't think my bow has enough power to launch an 
 arrow off of my property.  Not that my property is that great, more that my 
 bow is not that powerful (30 lb maximum pull).  It is just good enough to 
 launch up into and over my trees.
 
 I have never had an arrow get hung up in branches in all of my experience 
 with the bow.  I think maybe I am just lucky though.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Vedr: [KX3] KX3 Companion, does it work?

2014-06-27 Thread Gerry leary
Is there anything for the Iphone?

Sent from my iPhone this time 

 On Jun 26, 2014, at 7:40 AM, Martin Storli - LA8OKA arcticp...@yahoo.no 
 wrote:
 
 I downloaded the latest full version from Google Play.
 On my Sony Xperia Z the android version i 4.4.2.
 I don't have the Samsung Galaxy Tab2 where I am right now.
 I'm not using any external PA, and I don't think interference is an issue 
 since the behaviour is the same even when connected to a dummy load and the 
 KX3 set to 0 watt output.
 I'm using the SEND button in the App.
 I can't see any XMIT button in the App.
  
 I hope the problems can be solved, because it will be so great for portable 
 operation!
 
 Martin Storli 
 LA8OKA
 Oslo, Norway 
  
 ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! 
 http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
 
 
 
 Fra: Andrea IU4APC iu4...@yahoo.com [KX3] k...@yahoogroups.com
 Til: k...@yahoogroups.com k...@yahoogroups.com 
 Kopi: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sendt: Torsdag, 26. juni 2014 13.23
 Emne: Re: [KX3] KX3 Companion, does it work?
 
 
 
   
 Hi Martin,
 
 
 are you using the latest version? Free or Full version? Which version of 
 Android are you running? Are you using the external PA?
 
 About sending... are you using the SEND or XMIT mode?
 
 In any case... later today I'll release an updated version dedicated to Field 
 Day with improvements on the logging side. More about it later.
 
 73, Andrea IU4APC
 http://kx3companion.com/
 
 
 
 
 Il giorno 26/giu/2014, alle ore 12:50, Martin Storli - LA8OKA 
 arcticp...@yahoo.no [KX3] k...@yahoogroups.com ha scritto:
 
 
 
 Have anybody got the KX3 Companion App for Android to work?
 http://kx3companion.com/
 I downloaded the app and tryed it, but the app locks up i after TX.
 
 Also, the App has a 4 seconds delay after the last text is sent, and there 
 doesn't seem to be possible to adjust this delay.
 
 Due to these flaws, the app is unusable for me.
 
 I have tryed the both with my Sony Xperia Z phone and my Samsung Tab 2 7 
 and with 4 different OTG cables, and the app locks up after TX on all 
 devices.
 
 Have anybody else got the KX3 Companion app to work OK?
 
 Martin Storli
 LA8OKA
 Oslo, Norway
  
 ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages!
 http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
 
 __._,_.___  
 
 
 
 Posted by: Andrea IU4APC iu4...@yahoo.com 
 
 
 
 Reply via web post  • Reply to sender   • Reply to group   • Start a New 
 Topic  • Messages in this topic (2)   
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
The professional Arborists use a cloth or leather bag filled with lead 
shot and something called tangle-free line or similar to throw up in a 
tree so that they can pull up a supporting rope for tree trimming etc.  From 
what I've seen, the bag is about the size of a tear drop shaped golf ball. 
The idea of the shot instead of a solid weight is to make the bag less 
damaging if it hits your house (or window) on the way down.


I have a neighbor who's son is an arborist, so I've watched him on several 
occasions.  It DOES take a bit of practice, but the line never seems to get 
tangled.


I tried this with a few lead fishing weights on some thin nylon line and it 
was a disaster.  The secret is to use a thick enough line so that it won't 
spin around itself and (mysteriously) tie itself in a knot way up in the 
tree.


73, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote:

This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in
the US


It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, 
which we do at times. :-)



The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and
doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow
gravity to pull it down.  Should it comes later, the risks of
impalement can ruin the day.




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Re: [Elecraft] Interfacing an old MM transverter

2014-06-27 Thread g3yjr
Thanks Joe  Don. I had forgotten about the RX ANT connection. I have a
pre-amp conncted to RX ANT in/out, but I think I can daisy-chain the
transverter through the pre-amp by-pass connection.  The back of the K3 is
getting busy!

Thanks for your help.



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Interfacing-an-old-MM-transverter-tp7590240p7590617.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread K8JHR
Hmmm   vertical dipole... vs... end fed half wave vertical dipole 
 - not sure these are equivalent in performance.  I know W8JI thinks 
the end fed half wave needs some sort of ground system-counterpoise to 
keep the feed line from becoming part of the antenna, so I am wondering 
- asking not telling - whether these two are really equivalent?  (He 
said reaching for his ARRL Antenna Book...)


I believe Jim K9YC modeled a true vertical dipole  (including the n6BT 
end-loaded vertical dipole) - but I would expect it to work out 
differently from an end fed half wave vertical.  The GAP antennas and 
Cuschraft R8 and R9 type are supposed to be loaded vertical dipoles, and 
are not, I don't think, end feds... but that is the question... are 
these really all equivalent?  Certainly feeding at the bottom of an end 
fed would be easier from a construction and deployment point of view, so 
I can see the obvious appeal therefor, but then does it work as well as, 
say, the N6TB vertical dipole fed in the middle?


Again, this is a question not a critique.

 K8JHR ---



On 6/26/2014 10:59 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

The K9YC modelling with EZNEC
http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf is quite interesting.
Certainly has me thinking about vertical dipoles.  The half-wave end-fed
looks like the perfect candidate for a simple vertical dipole.


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[Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Michael Walker
It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Half-wave dipoles are equal no matter how they are fed.  With an end-fed 
dipole, the short counterpoise advocated by W8JI is merely a method of 
accomplishing feed to that high impedance point.  There is no difference 
in the radiation of any half wave dipole (except as influenced by 
ground, surrounding objects, etc.) - if you can couple RF into it, it 
will radiate.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/27/2014 8:51 AM, K8JHR wrote:
Hmmm vertical dipole... vs... end fed half wave vertical dipole 
 - not sure these are equivalent in performance.  I know W8JI thinks 
the end fed half wave needs some sort of ground system-counterpoise to 
keep the feed line from becoming part of the antenna, so I am 
wondering - asking not telling - whether these two are really 
equivalent?  (He said reaching for his ARRL Antenna Book...)




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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
In other words, divide up the group so that we all have to subscribe to 
several lists instead of just one?


Each of those groups will of course tend to wander off topic, and likely 
into topics that belong on the other group(s).


We'd also see crossposts, like tp the Yahoo KX3 list and this one.

I've been around reflectors for about 25 years, and this is what they 
do.  Trying to tame them by making more groups will fail.


Best we all just learn to self-moderate a little better.  Myself included.

There is a wonderful piece of software called POPfile, that is pretty 
amazing in its' ability to sort mail.  I haven't tried it on this list, 
but I'm quite tempted.  I  think it'd solve the problem for those who 
can't just skim and delete.


73 -- Lynn

On 6/27/2014 6:47 AM, Michael Walker wrote:

It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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[Elecraft] Noise from P3

2014-06-27 Thread W0WFH Bill via Elecraft
Hello all:
I operate a lot of 6 meters an want to use the P3 band scope for weak signal 
operating.  However when I turn the P3/SVGA on my noise floor jump up 3 or 4 db 
above what it is with the P3 turned off.  Turning on and off the Monitor makes 
no differance.

I know of a couple other guys in South West Missouri that has the same problem 
on 6 meters.  


Oh just  for informaton the P3 works well on all of the other band 160 to 10 
and 2 meters.  I am running a K3 with all the options except the second 
receiver.  It is a great working radio too.

73, Bill, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Wes
Why would it matter where it's fed? A half wave dipole has the same current 
distribution regardless of the feed point. 

Wes. N7WS


On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:51 AM, K8JHR jricha...@k8jhr.com wrote:

 Hmmm   vertical dipole... vs... end fed half wave vertical dipole  - 
 not sure these are equivalent in performance.  I know W8JI thinks the end fed 
 half wave needs some sort of ground system-counterpoise to keep the feed line 
 from becoming part of the antenna, so I am wondering - asking not telling - 
 whether these two are really equivalent?  (He said reaching for his ARRL 
 Antenna Book...)
 
 I believe Jim K9YC modeled a true vertical dipole  (including the n6BT 
 end-loaded vertical dipole) - but I would expect it to work out differently 
 from an end fed half wave vertical.  The GAP antennas and Cuschraft R8 and R9 
 type are supposed to be loaded vertical dipoles, and are not, I don't think, 
 end feds... but that is the question... are these really all equivalent?  
 Certainly feeding at the bottom of an end fed would be easier from a 
 construction and deployment point of view, so I can see the obvious appeal 
 therefor, but then does it work as well as, say, the N6TB vertical dipole fed 
 in the middle?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Jsodus
Hello,
Yahoo has a feature that I use for each of my groups.
I cannot recall the name used for it but, basically without going into great 
detail, it is condenses the day's emails for that group into one email. I scan 
the summary and, if any topic looks interesting, I scroll down to read it; 
otherwise, I delete that email.
Some groups may have as many as 15 postings in that summary, so with this 
feature, rather than having to delete 15 emails, I delete only one.
I'd like to have that feature here as well.
Just my $0.02.
73 Jerry KM3K
Sent from my NOOK


Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com wrote:


In other words, divide up the group so that we all have to subscribe to 
several lists instead of just one?

Each of those groups will of course tend to wander off topic, and likely 
into topics that belong on the other group(s).

We'd also see crossposts, like tp the Yahoo KX3 list and this one.

I've been around reflectors for about 25 years, and this is what they 
do.  Trying to tame them by making more groups will fail.

Best we all just learn to self-moderate a little better.  Myself included.

There is a wonderful piece of software called POPfile, that is pretty 
amazing in its' ability to sort mail.  I haven't tried it on this list, 
but I'm quite tempted.  I  think it'd solve the problem for those who 
can't just skim and delete.

73 -- Lynn

On 6/27/2014 6:47 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
 It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
 their product.

 However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
 from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
 Elecraft staff are part of this group.

 Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
 then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
 that are directly related to the product.

 Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions

2014-06-27 Thread Darren Long
Hi Dave,

Thanks for performing this comparison test.  I admit that I found it difficult
to perform repeatable measurements, as levels varied by as much as 10 to 15dB
due to position and orientation of the rig and cables  and my position with
respect to the equipment.  That is why I chose to provide considered
representative figures derived from multiple observations as opposed to precise
measurements or screen-shots, but I could provide screen-shots by way of
examples if anyone feels that would be really useful.

My KX3 is #01685, purchased complete (not kit) with the roofing filter and ATU
options, from Waters  Stanton in the UK. I fitted the battery charger when it
shipped, and have also recently fitted the SideKX end-plates and a VE7FMN
CoolerKX heatsink (although as noted before, the issue described pre-dates these
retrofits).

Your results lead me to hope that my KX3 might be defective and that the problem
could be resolved by repair or exchange. I suppose I should order a KX3-PCKT
cable set to try in case the official I/Q cable mitigates this issue, but I have
tried the 2.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable that came with my Sennheiser headphones
and that didn't seem any better.

I look forward to hearing confirmation from Elecraft of whether or not these
emissions are considered typical for this build standard of KX3.

Cheers, 73

Darren, G0HWW



On 27/06/14 11:39, Dave wrote:
 Here are two more screen grabs for KX3 on and off, but just looking at the
 frequency range 100MHz to 500MHz.  Everything else is the same between the 
 test
 done earlier.
 
 KX3 on
 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201122.jpg
 
 KX3 off
 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/65397105/KX3%20Test%2027-06-2014%201123.jpg
 
 I can't see any additional frequency peaks and moving the VFO on the KX3, or
 changing the band, doesn't appear to make any difference to the display on the
 analyser.
 
 So, I can say that I'm not seeing seeing any distinct frequency spikes, which
 vary as I tune the KX3 VFO up and down, as Darren is seeing from his KX3.
 
 Dave (G0DJA)
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Re: [Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier

2014-06-27 Thread Igor Sokolov
I have exactly the same setup with Expert 1K-FA, K3 and P3 and have been 
using it for the last 5 years. I actually have a pair of K3s connected to 
1K-FA simultaneously. It is pretty easy to connect SPE amp to your system. 
You need to make Y splitter for RS 232 port of K3. One leg of Y goes to P3, 
another goes to one of the DB15 connectors of the amp. The details are in 
the SPE manual that you can download prior to your purchase. This amp 
actually got 3 x RS232  ports. 2 ports are on DB15 connectors (these are 
used for CAT connection of 2 transceivers, PTT, ALC etc) and one port on DB9 
connector used for remoting the amplifier where you can duplicate all the 
buttons and meters on the computer screen with the help of a software SPE 
supplies with the amp.


73, Igor UA9CDC

- Original Message - 
From: WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
To: Bill Turner dez...@outlook.com; elecraft...@yahoogroups.com; 
Elecraft at mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier


The SPE Expert Amp needs a separate connector to the port. It does not do 
CAT control, but rather connects to a separate program to duplicate the 
control functions on the front of the amp. For CAT control it connects to 
the DB-15 Acc connector.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Thursday, June 26, 2014 9:03 PM, Bill Turner dez...@outlook.com wrote:



I have a K3 and a P3 which are 'daisy-chained' to the computer in the
normal manner. I am thinking of getting an SPE amplifier and am
wondering how to connect its RS-232 port into the mix. Is there some
kind of splitter or router that will add it in? Or some other method?

Thanks in advance.

73, Bill W6WRT
dez...@outlook.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jerry,

You *can* do that on the Elecraft reflector.  Go to 
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft, log in, and set your 
mail delivery to Digest.


I find that inconvenient to post a reply, or even to read through it, 
and some replying to a digest post do not delete the 'extra' and you 
find the entire digest being sent back to the reflector.


You might try what I consider better, just by creating a filter in your 
email client.  First create an Elecraft folder in your Inbox.
Then create a filter so that everything with [Elecraft] in the subject 
line is moved to the Elecraft folder.


Now you have your own personal digest that you can view at any time.  
Delete those emails that are not of interest, reply to those you wish 
to, or save some for future reference.  Quick and easy and it does not 
clutter your Inbox.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/27/2014 10:48 AM, Jsodus wrote:

Hello,
Yahoo has a feature that I use for each of my groups.
I cannot recall the name used for it but, basically without going into great 
detail, it is condenses the day's emails for that group into one email. I scan 
the summary and, if any topic looks interesting, I scroll down to read it; 
otherwise, I delete that email.
Some groups may have as many as 15 postings in that summary, so with this 
feature, rather than having to delete 15 emails, I delete only one.
I'd like to have that feature here as well.
Just my $0.02.
73 Jerry KM3K
Sent from my NOOK




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Re: [Elecraft] Noise from P3

2014-06-27 Thread Jim Rogers

Bill,

I  do not have the SVGA board in my P3, but do weak signal 6M 
operating and have no difficulty with noise floor increases on the K3 on 
6M.  I removed power completely from the P3 just to be sure. The noise 
floor stayed the same. You might remove the SVGA board and just see if 
that is the problem.  Most modern flat screens actually do not turn 
fully off with the on/off switch.  I would remove the power source 
completely to make sure the noise is not from the monitor.


JIm, W4ATK
On 6/27/2014 9:37 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft wrote:

Hello all:
I operate a lot of 6 meters an want to use the P3 band scope for weak signal 
operating.  However when I turn the P3/SVGA on my noise floor jump up 3 or 4 db 
above what it is with the P3 turned off.  Turning on and off the Monitor makes 
no differance.

I know of a couple other guys in South West Missouri that has the same problem 
on 6 meters.


Oh just  for informaton the P3 works well on all of the other band 160 to 10 
and 2 meters.  I am running a K3 with all the options except the second 
receiver.  It is a great working radio too.

73, Bill, W0WFH
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread ejkkjh
I have asked Elecraft a couple times to create an email list for official 
announcements from them, like new firmware releases, new products, technical 
info releases, etc.  Lots of companies have similar email lists for product 
announcements etc. , where only Elecraft would send emails. The only reason 
I am part of this list is to receive info from Elecraft, not to be part of a 
ham radio chat list, like this list is now.  I belong to approximately 20 
email lists relating to ham radio, this list by far, has many more off topic 
posts than all the others combined.  So in my experience this is not the 
norm for off topic posts.
A good example is nearly 40 posts over last couple days about RF in trees. 
So I have lots of Elecraft gear and I have lots of trees, so it must be 
relevant..

Emory  WM3M
PS - if you feel the need to disagree with me, please reply off list to this 
email.   73



-Original Message- 
From: Michael Walker

Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 9:47 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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[Elecraft] KX3 self activites

2014-06-27 Thread Dennis L. Haarsager
In the past couple of weeks, in which I've otherwise not used my KX3, I've
noticed that it had turned itself on three or four times while connected to
an AC supply.  I've since turned the power off on the p.s.  To my
knowledge, we've not had any power outages in that time.

Nothing seems to be amiss with the radio's performance other than that.
 But I either have a poltergeist in the basement or something weird is
going on with the radio.

Any thoughts?

73,
Dennis Haarsager, N7DH
Hillsboro, VA

--
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Walter Underwood
There is special cord designed to not get stuck in trees. It is called 
arborist throw line. It really works, I use it for bear bagging on 
backpacking trips. You can get the line, a throw weight, and a storage bag as a 
throw kit.

http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:27 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:

 The professional Arborists use a cloth or leather bag filled with lead shot 
 and something called tangle-free line or similar to throw up in a tree so 
 that they can pull up a supporting rope for tree trimming etc.  From what 
 I've seen, the bag is about the size of a tear drop shaped golf ball. The 
 idea of the shot instead of a solid weight is to make the bag less damaging 
 if it hits your house (or window) on the way down.
 
 I have a neighbor who's son is an arborist, so I've watched him on several 
 occasions.  It DOES take a bit of practice, but the line never seems to get 
 tangled.
 
 I tried this with a few lead fishing weights on some thin nylon line and it 
 was a disaster.  The secret is to use a thick enough line so that it won't 
 spin around itself and (mysteriously) tie itself in a knot way up in the tree.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 8:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
 
 
 On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote:
 This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in
 the US
 
 It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, 
 which we do at times. :-)
 
 The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and
 doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow
 gravity to pull it down.  Should it comes later, the risks of
 impalement can ruin the day.
 
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 self activites

2014-06-27 Thread Matt Zilmer
Hi Dennis,

You should probably check the ALARM menu function.  The KX3 might also
be detecting a remote power on event at the MIC PTT input.  Pages 21
and 28 of the owner's manual give information about these functions.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Fri, 27 Jun 2014 11:20:20 -0400, you wrote:

In the past couple of weeks, in which I've otherwise not used my KX3, I've
noticed that it had turned itself on three or four times while connected to
an AC supply.  I've since turned the power off on the p.s.  To my
knowledge, we've not had any power outages in that time.

Nothing seems to be amiss with the radio's performance other than that.
 But I either have a poltergeist in the basement or something weird is
going on with the radio.

Any thoughts?

73,
Dennis Haarsager, N7DH
Hillsboro, VA
Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will
spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Michael Walker
I am aware of Digest, and that is fine, but I don't want Digest my real
time Elecraft discussions.  Digest has its own set of issues as you loose
the subject  of the conversation when you reply unless you stay on top of
it.

Then again, I could leave and join as required since I sold move of
Elecraft stuff (other than the KPA5  and the non-functioning KRC2).

IF we followed the [OT] format, then I can easily write a rule to take care
of it as well.  Personally, I subscribe to 19 email forums.  All of which I
have a variety of filters installed on.  With those forums, I get 4-600
emails a day (and zero spam thanks to Gmail).

I leave it to the Moderators to solve.  I just thought I would ask.  I was
also concerned that the SME's (subject matter experts) from Elecraft would
stop paying attention, and that would be a great loss.

73 all, Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Good topic, but we're hotting the posting limit for a single topic. Let's wind 
this one down asap.

Eric
Your friendly jet lagged moderator (at the Freidrichshafen, Germany, Ham Radio 
show.)
elecraft.com
_..._

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote:
 
 There is special cord designed to not get stuck in trees. It is called 
 arborist throw line. It really works, I use it for bear bagging on 
 backpacking trips. You can get the line, a throw weight, and a storage bag as 
 a throw kit.
 
 http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html
 
 wunder
 K6WRU
 
 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:27 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:
 
 The professional Arborists use a cloth or leather bag filled with lead 
 shot and something called tangle-free line or similar to throw up in a 
 tree so that they can pull up a supporting rope for tree trimming etc.  From 
 what I've seen, the bag is about the size of a tear drop shaped golf ball. 
 The idea of the shot instead of a solid weight is to make the bag less 
 damaging if it hits your house (or window) on the way down.
 
 I have a neighbor who's son is an arborist, so I've watched him on several 
 occasions.  It DOES take a bit of practice, but the line never seems to get 
 tangled.
 
 I tried this with a few lead fishing weights on some thin nylon line and it 
 was a disaster.  The secret is to use a thick enough line so that it won't 
 spin around itself and (mysteriously) tie itself in a knot way up in the 
 tree.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 8:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
 
 
 On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote:
 This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in
 the US
 
 It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, 
 which we do at times. :-)
 
 The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and
 doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow
 gravity to pull it down.  Should it comes later, the risks of
 impalement can ruin the day.
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 --
 Walter Underwood
 wun...@wunderwood.org
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier

2014-06-27 Thread Bill Turner


Problem solved.

Thanks to Igor UA9CDC and Cookie, K5EWJ.

73, Bill W6WRT
dez...@outlook.com
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Terry Schieler
Sal,

The main problem with kites is safety.  One doesn't always know when the kite 
will change directions, dive or loop, with the potential of the kite wire 
crossing over a very deadly, high voltage utility line.  Poof!  You are vapor.

73,

Terry, W0FM


-Original Message-
From: Slava Baytalskiy [mailto:sla...@nullserv.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 6:25 PM
To: Rick Bates, WA6NHC
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

I wonder if anyone's ever used a kite in a field to keep a wire up.
I see kites a lot in the summer, along belt parkway here in Brooklyn and they 
seem to stay in one place for long periods of time.
I'm sure one can use 12 or 14 AWG wire and let a kite carry it pretty high. Of 
course you need wind for that but being near water (salt water, no less) 
there's usually wind present.
Hmm.

Another idea that may be used to place a wire with a lot of precision is one of 
those RC quadricopters that are becoming wildly popular.
A little servo claw to release the wire or just to place it's apex where you 
want it...
__
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w2...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Gentlemen,

As per the list guidelines and in the interest of keeping list traffic 
reasonable, please avoid discussing list requests, splitting lists etc on the 
list. Emailing the moderator is always OK though. :-)

We -are- planning on setting up a parallel Elecraft announcement only list in 
the near future. Stay tuned.

73,

Eric
Moderator
elecraft.com
_..._



 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:17 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have asked Elecraft a couple times to create an email list for official 
 announcements from them, like new firmware releases, new products, technical 
 info releases, etc.  Lots of companies have similar email lists for product 
 announcements etc. , where only Elecraft would send emails. The only reason I 
 am part of this list is to receive info from Elecraft, not to be part of a 
 ham radio chat list, like this list is now.  I belong to approximately 20 
 email lists relating to ham radio, this list by far, has many more off topic 
 posts than all the others combined.  So in my experience this is not the norm 
 for off topic posts.
 A good example is nearly 40 posts over last couple days about RF in trees. So 
 I have lots of Elecraft gear and I have lots of trees, so it must be 
 relevant..
 Emory  WM3M
 PS - if you feel the need to disagree with me, please reply off list to this 
 email.   73
 
 
 -Original Message- From: Michael Walker
 Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 9:47 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?
 
 It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
 their product.
 
 However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
 from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
 Elecraft staff are part of this group.
 
 Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
 then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
 that are directly related to the product.
 
 Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
typo - hitting the limit..

Eric
elecraft.com
_..._



 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:33 PM, Eric Swartz  WA6HHQ - Elecraft 
 e...@elecraft.com wrote:
 
 Good topic, but we're hotting the posting limit for a single topic. Let's 
 wind this one down asap.
 
 Eric
 Your friendly jet lagged moderator (at the Freidrichshafen, Germany, Ham 
 Radio show.)
 elecraft.com
 _..._
 
 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote:
 
 There is special cord designed to not get stuck in trees. It is called 
 arborist throw line. It really works, I use it for bear bagging on 
 backpacking trips. You can get the line, a throw weight, and a storage bag 
 as a throw kit.
 
 http://www.wesspur.com/throw-line/zing-it-throw-line.html
 
 wunder
 K6WRU
 
 On Jun 27, 2014, at 5:27 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com wrote:
 
 The professional Arborists use a cloth or leather bag filled with lead 
 shot and something called tangle-free line or similar to throw up in a 
 tree so that they can pull up a supporting rope for tree trimming etc.  
 From what I've seen, the bag is about the size of a tear drop shaped golf 
 ball. The idea of the shot instead of a solid weight is to make the bag 
 less damaging if it hits your house (or window) on the way down.
 
 I have a neighbor who's son is an arborist, so I've watched him on several 
 occasions.  It DOES take a bit of practice, but the line never seems to get 
 tangled.
 
 I tried this with a few lead fishing weights on some thin nylon line and it 
 was a disaster.  The secret is to use a thick enough line so that it won't 
 spin around itself and (mysteriously) tie itself in a knot way up in the 
 tree.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 - Original Message - From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 8:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees
 
 
 On 6/26/2014 4:12 PM, Rick Bates, WA6NHC wrote:
 This may be off topic, but in light of it being Field Day Weekend in
 the US
 
 It's radio, Eric will probably see it as relevant, unless we overdo it, 
 which we do at times. :-)
 
 The arrow has an issue because it gets hung up or in branches and
 doesn't have enough mass to pass through some branches or allow
 gravity to pull it down.  Should it comes later, the risks of
 impalement can ruin the day.
 __
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 Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
 
 --
 Walter Underwood
 wun...@wunderwood.org
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise from P3

2014-06-27 Thread Wayne Burdick
Bill,

You might have a defective I.F. cable. Our customer support department will be 
contacting you.

Wayne
N6KR


On Jun 27, 2014, at 7:37 AM, W0WFH Bill via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
wrote:

 Hello all:
 I operate a lot of 6 meters an want to use the P3 band scope for weak signal 
 operating.  However when I turn the P3/SVGA on my noise floor jump up 3 or 4 
 db above what it is with the P3 turned off….


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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread Dale Holloway
Only problem is I get my email on my phone too and haven't found a way to 
filter mail on it. Hence, I get seemingly dozens of OT emails on it daily. No 
problem on the laptop.

Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

Jerry,

You *can* do that on the Elecraft reflector.  Go to 
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft, log in, and set your 
mail delivery to Digest.

I find that inconvenient to post a reply, or even to read through it, 
and some replying to a digest post do not delete the 'extra' and you 
find the entire digest being sent back to the reflector.

You might try what I consider better, just by creating a filter in your 
email client.  First create an Elecraft folder in your Inbox.
Then create a filter so that everything with [Elecraft] in the subject 
line is moved to the Elecraft folder.

Now you have your own personal digest that you can view at any time.  
Delete those emails that are not of interest, reply to those you wish 
to, or save some for future reference.  Quick and easy and it does not 
clutter your Inbox.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/27/2014 10:48 AM, Jsodus wrote:
 Hello,
 Yahoo has a feature that I use for each of my groups.
 I cannot recall the name used for it but, basically without going into great 
 detail, it is condenses the day's emails for that group into one email. I 
 scan the summary and, if any topic looks interesting, I scroll down to read 
 it; otherwise, I delete that email.
 Some groups may have as many as 15 postings in that summary, so with this 
 feature, rather than having to delete 15 emails, I delete only one.
 I'd like to have that feature here as well.
 Just my $0.02.
 73 Jerry KM3K
 Sent from my NOOK



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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/27/2014 3:16 AM, Gerry leary wrote:

Thanks very much for showing me HYpower Anntennas.  They look very interesting, 
and I am going to call them with questions.


When I was getting back on the air in 2003 in Chicago, I needed a 
shortened antenna for 80 and 40. I bought his shortened 80/40 dipole. 
It's a full size half wave on 40, with loading coils and more wire on 
each side for 80M. It worked fine. When I moved to CA, I bought only the 
loading coils for the comparable 160/80 version. I've since used those 
coils to build 160/80/40M antennas at two very different sites. I built 
the 160/80 per Barry's design, and added a fan element for 40M.


73, Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] 400 HZ Cw Filter Setup

2014-06-27 Thread pastormg2
Good Afternoon,
I am looking to install my new 400 hz cw filter this evening. I see on page 46 
of the manual that there is a crystal filter setup that can either be done with 
the radio or with the software program that elecraft has. What would be good 
settings for the 400 hz cw filter? Thanks! Mark Griffin, KB3Z

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/27/2014 6:30 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
if you can couple RF into it, it will radiate. 


Yes. There are many ways to feed a vertical dipole. I developed a method 
that uses the outside of the coax as half of the dipole, and uses a 
ferrite choke to form the end insulator. The choke is positioned a 
quarter wave down the coax from the center insulator.


I published this method about six years ago, after seeing a similar 
suggestion ftrom Rudy Severns, N6LF. Rudy used a coil of coax, forming 
only an inductor. My contribution was the ferrite choke, which makes the 
antenna insensitive to feedline length.


The end of a dipole is a high voltage point, so there's considerable 
voltage across the choke if you're running much power. I tested this 
concept around 2008 on 40M with 1.5kW, and found that I needed two 
chokes in series, each of which was 5,000 ohms.  A single choke would 
work quite well at 100W or less.


Note that electrically, this dipole is center fed -- there's a quarter 
wave wire connected to the coax that goes to an end insulator that can 
be suspended in a tree, then the coax hangs down, and the choke is a 
quarter wave down from the wire. The impedance of a vertical dipole like 
this is about 70 ohms at resonance, which makes it a good match for 75 
ohm coax.  Remember that SWR in a system is determined by the match 
between the antenna and the line, so losses will be lower with 75 ohm 
coax. Also remember that the velocity factor of coax is for signals 
INSIDE the coax. For signals OUTSIDE the coax, the velocity factor is 
like any other insulated wire of comparable size, roughly 0.98.


The choke should be wound using the guidelines in my Cookbook.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
Why not have someone clone this group for the sore heads who's delete key is 
broken.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, June 27, 2014 8:49 AM, Michael Walker va...@portcredit.net wrote:
 


It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft
I don't really understand why traps have gotten such a bad rap. Consider 
that most all triband beams use traps as well as many verticals.  I have 
been using Spi-Ro traps for 20 years and never had a problem and I 
certainly don't see any indication that I am suffering some kind of loss 
as a result.  I have made many comparisons between the trapped dipoles 
and single band non-trapped dipoles and the only difference I see is a 
reduction in usable bandwidth.  The Spi-Ro traps are rated for 600 watts 
making them perfect for the KPA500 powered station.  Indeed - do not 
rule out traps.


I also use a similar wire that to what Charlie mentions.  Last order was 
for 600 feet. It's great stuff.


Now I'm thinking of what would be the best all-band antenna for the K2 
which is my secondary operating position in the living room where I can 
give demos to visitors.  I'm thinking of giving the 88 foot doublet fed 
with 300 ohm twinlead a try.


Doug -- K0DXV

On 6/26/14, 6:30 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Don't rule out traps.

Also, the RF Connection and probably others, sell a nice stranded 
copperweld wire that has a black polyethylene insulation.  If I 
remember correctly, it is 13 ga and is ideal for antennas.  For all 
practical purposes, it doesn't stretch,  is fairly slippery and only a 
little springier than hard drawn copper.


I use those double ferrule aluminum crimp on's that are designed for 
flexible wire cable to hold everything together.  I was concerned 
about them holding through the poly insulation, but the following 
antenna has been up for about ten years now.  It consists of a double 
(fan) dipole with a pair of 80 meter traps in the top leg for 160  80 
M coverage and a pair of 40 meter traps in the lower leg for 60  40 M 
coverage.  It is fed thru a 1:1 balun with RG-213 and is tuned for 
resonance.  Basically, I operate SSB 99% of the time, so the antenna 
is tuned for that end of the bands.  An MN-2700 tuner in the shack 
takes care of  small excursions from resonance.  It's only up about 50 
feet, so performance is what you'd expect. It's not straight either 
and is sort of a lazy Z, being strung between two 55' telephone poles 
that are 105 feet apart.  The ends droop down at about 45 degrees to 
tie-off points in trees.  A compromise? Yes, but it works.


73, Charlie k3ICH




- Original Message - From: Jim Brown 
j...@audiosystemsgroup.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2014 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees



On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout 
nylon rope
between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the 
Vees,
thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to 
side,
and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one 
variation on
the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the 
supporting

rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but 
didn't

perform as well as the full length version.


If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would 
you want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?


Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY 
good antenna, and is easy to build.


My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big 
box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch 
until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get 
hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and 
pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 
or #14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by 
cutting 1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire 
fans, and about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is 
a good rule of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short 
lengths of copper around the spacer to the bare copper of the long 
element.


The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator 
should be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 
ohms than 50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 
or RG11 depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with 
small coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.


For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to 
one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high 
my trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL 
end up on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.


My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood 
forest that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the 
pants observation is that attenuation increases 

Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Edward R Cole

http://w5jgv.com/tree_antenna/index.htm

Ralph is the ham I was referring to.  Now you have as much as I am 
aware of.  I forgot that Ralph wound a torus around the tree 
base.  He used an old oak which brings song to mind tie a yellow 
ribbon around that ole oak tree


The question about whether the tree feels the electrical field gets 
into the whole earth realm of whether flora feel as much a fauna?  I 
would say, yes.  The tree probably feels excited with an 
electrifying experience! :-D


Long term effects on the health of a tree is probably 
unknown.  Mankind generally does not have much empathy for the plant 
world.  We grow it and we harvest it for food or shelter.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin

This is how we feel about the plant world:

*John Barleycorn*

There were three men came out of the West,
Their fortunes for to try,
And these three men made a solemn vow:
John Barleycorn must die.

They've ploughed, they've sown, they've harrowed him in,
Threw clods upon his head,
And these three men made a solemn vow:
John Barleycorn was dead.

They've let him lie for a very long time,
Till the rains from heaven did fall,
And little Sir John sprung up his head,
And so amazed them all.

They've let him stand till midsummer's day,
Till he looked both pale and wan,
And little Sir John's grown a long, long beard,
And so become a man.

They've hired men with the scythes so sharp,
To cut him off at the knee,
They've rolled him and tied him by the way,
Serving him most barbarously.

They've hired men with the sharp pitchforks,
Who pricked him to the heart,
And the loader he has served him worse than that,
For he's bound him to the cart

They've wheeled him around and around the field,
Till they came unto a barn,
And there they made a solemn oath,
On poor John Barleycorn.

They've hired men with the crab-tree sticks,
To cut him skin from bone,
And the miller he has served him worse than that,
For he's ground him between two stones.

And little Sir John and the nut-brown bowl,
And he's brandy in the glass;
And little Sir John and the nut-brown bowl,
Proved the strongest man at last.

The huntsman, he can't hunt the fox,
Nor so loudly to blow his horn,
And the tinker he can't mend kettle nor pot,
Without a little Barleycorn

With apologies to Traffic :)
73,
Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 6/27/2014 11:18 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

http://w5jgv.com/tree_antenna/index.htm

Ralph is the ham I was referring to.  Now you have as much as I am 
aware of.  I forgot that Ralph wound a torus around the tree base.  He 
used an old oak which brings song to mind tie a yellow ribbon around 
that ole oak tree


The question about whether the tree feels the electrical field gets 
into the whole earth realm of whether flora feel as much a fauna?  I 
would say, yes.  The tree probably feels excited with an 
electrifying experience! :-D


Long term effects on the health of a tree is probably unknown. Mankind 
generally does not have much empathy for the plant world. We grow it 
and we harvest it for food or shelter.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Jim Bennett
Doug - I've been using an 88 foot long doublet at 45 feet for about four years 
- works very, very well on 40-6 meters. It tunes on 80 but I have an inverted L 
I use there. Currently I feed it with about 110 feet of 450-ohm ladder line and 
a Current Designs 4:1 balun, and then about ten feet of RG-8X into the shack. 
My only complaint is that the SWR jumps all over the place when it's raining, 
which it normally does here in this part of the state in the winter. I may go 
back to 600-ohm open wire line later this summer. But other than that, the 
88-foot doublet is a good performer. BTW - mine is made out of #26 silky coat 
wire from The Wireman in SC - I have to keep it stealthy, but have no problem 
running 500w to it from my Elecraft K3/KPA500.

Jim / W6JHB
Folsom, CA


On   Friday, Jun 27, 2014, at  Friday, 10:40 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

 
 
 Now I'm thinking of what would be the best all-band antenna for the K2 
 which is my secondary operating position in the living room where I can give 
 demos to visitors.  I'm thinking of giving the 88 foot doublet fed with 300 
 ohm twinlead a try.
 
 Doug -- K0DXV

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise from P3

2014-06-27 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Bill,

I have the P3 with SVGA and have no additional noise on 6 meters.

73,
Mike K2MK


Elecraft mailing list wrote
 Hello all:
 I operate a lot of 6 meters an want to use the P3 band scope for weak
 signal operating.  However when I turn the P3/SVGA on my noise floor jump
 up 3 or 4 db above what it is with the P3 turned off.  Turning on and off
 the Monitor makes no differance.
 
 I know of a couple other guys in South West Missouri that has the same
 problem on 6 meters.  
 
 Oh just  for informaton the P3 works well on all of the other band 160 to
 10 and 2 meters.  I am running a K3 with all the options except the second
 receiver.  It is a great working radio too.
 
 73, Bill, W0WFH





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[Elecraft] KX3 FAST-PLAY field-test firmware now available (rev. 2.11)

2014-06-27 Thread Wayne Burdick
Several KX3 users have now tested the new fast-play feature (see operating 
details below), so we're making the firmware available for those who don't mind 
working with a field-test release. It'll be a great feature for Field Day, but 
you'll want to get it downloaded and tested before hand. 

The rev. 2.11 firmware can be found on this page:

   ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/KX3/firmware/beta/

(If it's a bit slow, note that FTP directories can take awhile to open.)

Make sure you have the latest release of KX3 Utility before loading the new 
firmware into your KX3. 

If you haven't loaded new KX3 firmware in awhile, you might have a temporary 
issue with MCU/DSP firmware compatibility that affects the load process. If 
have any difficulty with the normal one-click firmware load:

1. Select Advanced mode within KX3 Utility.

2. Check the box to load just the MCU code, then click the send button.

3. When the MCU load completes (possibly with DSP error code), check the box to 
load just the DSP code, and click send. On completion of 

Here are the details on fast-play:

FAST MESSAGE PLAY

A long-hold of MSG (~3 sec) puts the KX3 into FAST PLAY mode. In this mode, the 
BAND+, BAND-, and FREQ_ENT switches can be used to play/repeat messages 1, 2, 
and 3 immediately, without the need to first tap MSG. To turn off fast play, 
hold MSG for ~3 seconds again, or turn the KX3 off and back on. 

Notes: 

(1) In voice modes (using the built-in DVR), only messages 1 and 2 are 
available, corresponding to BAND+ and BAND- in fast-play. 

(2) At present, message chaining (starting another message while one is already 
in progress) is only available in CW modes (with both normal and fast-play).

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] Assembled K2 Misc. Accessory Board available

2014-06-27 Thread Lou Voerman W2ROW
I recently went in on a group buy for the MAB project. I received three
boards and only need two for my K2's. I did assemble and test the third
board if anyone is interested. It does not include the Internal Mic Adapter
but you could add that yourself by removing 4 zero ohm resistors and adding
the IMA parts. 

To install you need to plug the board into the mic header on the front panel
board and solder four wires - 3 to the front panel board and one to the
control board. The MAB gives you a fixed audio output (W3FPR circuit), a key
line and a CW tuning indicator (K6XX circuit). See 
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/K2MiscAccessoryBoard/index.htm   for
the MAB details. The MAB was designed by KW4M and is a very nice addition to
the K2.

I will sell for $30 shipped via priority mail to the lower 48. I can be
reached at my call @ arrl.net.

Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
The actual charter as I understand it is to discuss matters related to Amateur 
Radio in a rational manner.  It is sponsored by Elecraft, so things related to 
Elecraft are emphasized.  I do not recall any clause limiting the topics to 
those which all Amateurs agree (is there any such?)  Certainly there have been 
some topics that are more controversial than average discussed on this forum 
with a sharp divide of opinions, but since Elecraft products can be used or 
discarded by the actions of ARRL and FCC, I would say the controversy is 
exactly on target.  I would rather that only my views be elaborated and I am 
sure that others have the same wish, but it is not going to happen.  How else 
other than discussion can we reach any reasonable solution?  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, June 27, 2014 12:11 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com wrote:
 


In other words, divide up the group so that we all have to subscribe to 
several lists instead of just one?

Each of those groups will of course tend to wander off topic, and likely 
into topics that belong on the other group(s).

We'd also see crossposts, like tp the Yahoo
 KX3 list and this one.

I've been around reflectors for about 25 years, and this is what they 
do.  Trying to tame them by making more groups will fail.

Best we all just learn to self-moderate a little better.  Myself included.

There is a wonderful piece of software called POPfile, that is pretty 
amazing in its' ability to sort mail.  I haven't tried it on this list, 
but I'm quite tempted.  I  think it'd solve the problem for those who 
can't just skim and delete.

73 -- Lynn

On 6/27/2014 6:47 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
 It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
 their product.

 However, I am
 concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
 from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
 Elecraft staff are part of this group.

 Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
 then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
 that are directly related to the product.

 Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

2014-06-27 Thread EricJ
Between self-moderation and Eric's very reasonable tolerance of OT 
posts, I don't think further measures are necessary. Breaking it up into 
subgroups just means the experts we all rely on most will have less 
reason to hang around answering questions. That would be a very negative 
consequence.


What would REALLY help is that more people use meaningful subject lines, 
particularly using Elecraft model numbers, and OT when that is the case. 
I filter out KX3 and K3 because I don't have those rigs. Lots of posts 
have to do with those two rigs, but don't note it in the subject line. 
Not a problem, though, because I have a functioning Delete key and I'm 
trained to use it.


Ironically, this thread about OT complaints and splitting up the group 
is far less interesting than any of the OT threads that precipitated it.


Eric
KE6US


On 6/27/2014 1:17 PM, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft wrote:

The actual charter as I understand it is to discuss matters related to Amateur 
Radio in a rational manner.  It is sponsored by Elecraft, so things related to 
Elecraft are emphasized.  I do not recall any clause limiting the topics to 
those which all Amateurs agree (is there any such?)  Certainly there have been 
some topics that are more controversial than average discussed on this forum 
with a sharp divide of opinions, but since Elecraft products can be used or 
discarded by the actions of ARRL and FCC, I would say the controversy is 
exactly on target.  I would rather that only my views be elaborated and I am 
sure that others have the same wish, but it is not going to happen.  How else 
other than discussion can we reach any reasonable solution?
  
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman

K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, June 27, 2014 12:11 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com wrote:
  



In other words, divide up the group so that we all have to subscribe to
several lists instead of just one?

Each of those groups will of course tend to wander off topic, and likely
into topics that belong on the other group(s).

We'd also see crossposts, like tp the Yahoo
  KX3 list and this one.

I've been around reflectors for about 25 years, and this is what they
do.  Trying to tame them by making more groups will fail.

Best we all just learn to self-moderate a little better.  Myself included.

There is a wonderful piece of software called POPfile, that is pretty
amazing in its' ability to sort mail.  I haven't tried it on this list,
but I'm quite tempted.  I  think it'd solve the problem for those who
can't just skim and delete.

73 -- Lynn

On 6/27/2014 6:47 AM, Michael Walker wrote:

It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am

  concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away

from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] Assembled K2 Misc. Accessory Board sold

2014-06-27 Thread Lou Voerman W2ROW
It has a new home - thanks.

Lou W2ROW



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[Elecraft] Playing with my KX3-2M

2014-06-27 Thread Edward R Cole
Finally hit a breather in my busy schedule* to spend a little time 
with the new 2M transverter module. *Just wound up running a week of 
W1AW/KL7 for 2m eme.


My unit was one of the few that had to have the Rx fixed as result of 
field testing.  Came back in great shape and verified the RF output 
to be 3w.  I still don't have enough time to make the exhaustive 
frequency measurements that I want to evaluate for use with mw 
transverters that commonly use 144 as IF, but


...made some local 2m-FM contacts and noticed the receiver audio 
seemed scratchy, sort of like one would see with poor 
signals.  That got me curious to make some tests with my other 2m-FM 
rig and that also seemed off.


At the same time I decided to program the KX3 with the local NOAA Wx 
station (162.475) and it was terrible.  I switched to my standard 
vertical dual-band base station whip and NOAA came at S6 loud and 
clear -wow!  Quick check of the tower-mounted preamp shows its 
blown.  It reverts to bypass by removing 12v power.  BTW the preamp 
is connected to a yagi pointed toward Anchorage 70-mi north.  The 
NOAA station is 20mi south.


But the thing I wanted to say is KX3-2M Rx sensitivity at 162 MHz 
appears pretty good!  Quick check of 2m Rx sensitivity was made using 
my XG3+30 dB step-attenuator and good it was hearing down to -137 dBm 
in SSB bandwidth.


Now I am fixing a RFConcepts 2-23 30w linear amp to be driven by the 
KX3-2M.  This amp is a very nice brick which is small enough to take 
on a plane in a briefcase when traveling.  Being linear it can be 
used on 2m-SSB with the KX3-2M.  Check out my new webpage for the 2M module:

http://www.kl7uw.com/KX3-2M.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB connection 
from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The laptop is hooked 
directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true serial port with a 
DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set the 
com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial connection 
and one for the USB connection.  Reading the installation notes for N1MM 
just buries me in information when all I really need is a picture of 
which com ports to use.  The last time I did this I just worked my way 
through all combinations until one magically worked.  Currently I don't 
have that kind of patience :)  Could anyone direct me to the short form 
of the instructions or give me a little hint as to which ports may 
work?  By the way, the OS I am using on the Thinkpad is the last version 
of XP.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread K8JHR
This guy comae up with a variation on the OCF Dipole that matches well 
on many bands and has been field tested in contests by a station in 
Germany.  Lightweight, low profile, durable, especially good for QRP or 
field day operations.


Maybe it will give you an idea or two... I understand the developer 
spent countless hours modeling, testing, re-modeling, re-testing, etc., 
until he got the right feed point offset to maximize low SWR on multiple 
bands, as if looking for the holy grail of antennas.


http://www.aerial-51.com/

I have no financial interest in any of it, but if the balun comes potted 
in epoxy, it was kinda my idea ...   ;-)


  K8JHR --


On 6/27/2014 1:40 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:


Now I'm thinking of what would be the best all-band antenna for the K2
which is my secondary operating position in the living room where I can
give demos to visitors.  I'm thinking of giving the 88 foot doublet fed
with 300 ohm twinlead a try.


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[Elecraft] N1MM and K1EL Winkey

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
Thus far I have found a few of the problems.  I needed an FT232R 
driver.  Now the Winkey can drive the K3 just fine.  N1MM on the other 
hand cannot seem to run the K3 at all.  While the USB connection is on 
COM 4 the serial port between the keyer and the laptop does not work on 
COM 1.  I am not sure what changed since I last had this all working.  
Any suggestions for getting N1MM to drive my K3?  I may need to reboot a 
few more times; this is a windows machine after all :)


==

My previous email 

I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB connection 
from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The laptop is hooked 
directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true serial port with a 
DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set the 
com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial connection 
and one for the USB connection.  Reading the installation notes for N1MM 
just buries me in information when all I really need is a picture of 
which com ports to use.  The last time I did this I just worked my way 
through all combinations until one magically worked.  Currently I don't 
have that kind of patience   Could anyone direct me to the short form of 
the instructions or give me a little hint as to which ports may work?  
By the way, the OS I am using on the Thinkpad is the last version of XP.




73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM and K1EL Winkey

2014-06-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Kevin,

If you have moved the USB connection from connector to connector, check 
your USB port assignment in Control Panel.  Sometimes a different com 
port is assigned to USB to serial adapters unless the same USB port is used.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/27/2014 7:46 PM, Kevin wrote:
Thus far I have found a few of the problems.  I needed an FT232R 
driver.  Now the Winkey can drive the K3 just fine.  N1MM on the other 
hand cannot seem to run the K3 at all.  While the USB connection is on 
COM 4 the serial port between the keyer and the laptop does not work 
on COM 1.  I am not sure what changed since I last had this all 
working.  Any suggestions for getting N1MM to drive my K3?  I may need 
to reboot a few more times; this is a windows machine after all :)


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[Elecraft] Progress with N1MM

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
I can run the contest from the K1EL Winkeyer at this point and N1MM 
tracks the frequencies of the K3.  But, N1MM keeps telling me I don't 
have a CW port selected even though I have set the COM1 port as such.  
The baud rates of the com ports on both the laptop and the K3 are the 
same which was causing one difficulty.  However, this last problem seems 
to be very arcane.


Luckily I can log on paper as I do for the few contests I enter.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Charles Tropp via Elecraft

Hi Kevin,

Setting up the K3 and the Winkeyer is actually pretty simple. Lets 
assume that you have connected your K3 to your laptop on your serial 
port. Let's also assume that you have connected your Winkeyer and that 
it has passed the communication test. Now your serial port is probably 
Com1. So open N1MM make sure you have the information and entry windows 
open. Now click on Config at the top of the entry window. Then select 
the very first line on the drop down menu called configure ports, mode 
control, ports, other. This will open the rather intimidating 
configurer window. Make sure the Hardware tab has been selected. Look 
at the first column, do you see Com1 on the left? Now click the little 
down arrow on that line and select the Elecraft K3 from the list that 
opens. Now push the set button on the right hand side. All the 
suggested Elecraft K3 settings have already been set for you. Just press 
OK down at the bottom. Now select the Winkey tab. Again, the settings 
have already been selected for you. Click OK at the bottom. When you do 
you will see the Winkey version appear on the Information window. Voila! 
You should be in business.


Good Luck, Charles N2SO

On 6/27/2014 7:04 PM, Kevin wrote:
I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB 
connection from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The laptop 
is hooked directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true serial 
port with a DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set 
the com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial 
connection and one for the USB connection.  Reading the installation 
notes for N1MM just buries me in information when all I really need is 
a picture of which com ports to use.  The last time I did this I just 
worked my way through all combinations until one magically worked.  
Currently I don't have that kind of patience :)  Could anyone direct 
me to the short form of the instructions or give me a little hint as 
to which ports may work? By the way, the OS I am using on the Thinkpad 
is the last version of XP.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

2014-06-27 Thread Robert S. McCuskey
Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2  -  SOLD -  Thanks .   73, W7BV

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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Bob N3MNT
You can also use the USB port to the radio interface to key the radio
directly and set up 10 user memories that will not require the K1EL keyer at
all unless you want to hand key .



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/N1MM-setup-help-tp7590656p7590663.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] N1MM lack of instructions

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
I finally guessed the correct setup.  No searching of N1MM's 
documentation helped at all.  It was simply guessing which made the 
setup work.


Since COM1 is used by the Elecraft K3 and the Winkeyer uses COM4 I 
thought COM1 should be set as the CW port.  No, this is incorrect. It is 
solely the control port and not the CW port.  What is necessary is to go 
into setup from the Configure panel and check one box.  That box says 
Winkey.  I have yet to find this explained anywhere or by anyone.  It 
was just random chance that lead me to the dialog box I needed.  I 
picked COM4 and setup to get there. Once I checked the Winkey box I was 
able to use CW from the N1MM application.


Now how many more hours will it take before I discover how to load a 
Field Day template?  Does anyone use N1MM for a contest logger?


Kevin.  KD5ONS


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
Thank you.  After I finally found this by a chance discovery you have 
reaffirmed my effort.  Could you please tell me which template to choose 
for Field Day?

73,
 Kevin.   KD5ONS


On 6/27/2014 5:48 PM, Charles Tropp wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Setting up the K3 and the Winkeyer is actually pretty simple. Lets 
assume that you have connected your K3 to your laptop on your serial 
port. Let's also assume that you have connected your Winkeyer and that 
it has passed the communication test. Now your serial port is probably 
Com1. So open N1MM make sure you have the information and entry 
windows open. Now click on Config at the top of the entry window. Then 
select the very first line on the drop down menu called configure 
ports, mode control, ports, other. This will open the rather 
intimidating configurer window. Make sure the Hardware tab has been 
selected. Look at the first column, do you see Com1 on the left? Now 
click the little down arrow on that line and select the Elecraft K3 
from the list that opens. Now push the set button on the right hand 
side. All the suggested Elecraft K3 settings have already been set for 
you. Just press OK down at the bottom. Now select the Winkey tab. 
Again, the settings have already been selected for you. Click OK at 
the bottom. When you do you will see the Winkey version appear on the 
Information window. Voila! You should be in business.


Good Luck, Charles N2SO

On 6/27/2014 7:04 PM, Kevin wrote:
I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB 
connection from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The laptop 
is hooked directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true serial 
port with a DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set 
the com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial 
connection and one for the USB connection.  Reading the installation 
notes for N1MM just buries me in information when all I really need 
is a picture of which com ports to use. The last time I did this I 
just worked my way through all combinations until one magically 
worked.  Currently I don't have that kind of patience :)  Could 
anyone direct me to the short form of the instructions or give me a 
little hint as to which ports may work? By the way, the OS I am using 
on the Thinkpad is the last version of XP.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] Progress with N1MM

2014-06-27 Thread Nr4c
Check the CW box in configurer for port to k1el WK. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


 On Jun 27, 2014, at 8:25 PM, Kevin kev...@coho.net wrote:
 
 I can run the contest from the K1EL Winkeyer at this point and N1MM tracks 
 the frequencies of the K3.  But, N1MM keeps telling me I don't have a CW port 
 selected even though I have set the COM1 port as such.  The baud rates of the 
 com ports on both the laptop and the K3 are the same which was causing one 
 difficulty.  However, this last problem seems to be very arcane.
 
 Luckily I can log on paper as I do for the few contests I enter.
 
 Any suggestions would be helpful.
Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Nr4c
Try FD. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


 On Jun 27, 2014, at 9:01 PM, Kevin kev...@coho.net wrote:
 
 Thank you.  After I finally found this by a chance discovery you have 
 reaffirmed my effort.  Could you please tell me which template to choose for 
 Field Day?
73,
 Kevin.   KD5ONS
 
 
 On 6/27/2014 5:48 PM, Charles Tropp wrote:
 Hi Kevin,
 
 Setting up the K3 and the Winkeyer is actually pretty simple. Lets assume 
 that you have connected your K3 to your laptop on your serial port. Let's 
 also assume that you have connected your Winkeyer and that it has passed the 
 communication test. Now your serial port is probably Com1. So open N1MM make 
 sure you have the information and entry windows open. Now click on Config at 
 the top of the entry window. Then select the very first line on the drop 
 down menu called configure ports, mode control, ports, other. This will 
 open the rather intimidating configurer window. Make sure the Hardware tab 
 has been selected. Look at the first column, do you see Com1 on the left? 
 Now click the little down arrow on that line and select the Elecraft K3 from 
 the list that opens. Now push the set button on the right hand side. All 
 the suggested Elecraft K3 settings have already been set for you. Just press 
 OK down at the bottom. Now select the Winkey tab. Again, the settings have 
 alre
 ady been selected for you. Click OK at the bottom. When you do you will see 
the Winkey version appear on the Information window. Voila! You should be in 
business.
 
 Good Luck, Charles N2SO
 
 On 6/27/2014 7:04 PM, Kevin wrote:
 I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is plugged 
 into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB connection from the 
 K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The laptop is hooked directly to the 
 K3 via its serial port; yes, a true serial port with a DB9 connector.
 
 Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.
 
 It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
 installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set the 
 com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial connection and 
 one for the USB connection.  Reading the installation notes for N1MM just 
 buries me in information when all I really need is a picture of which com 
 ports to use. The last time I did this I just worked my way through all 
 combinations until one magically worked.  Currently I don't have that kind 
 of patience :)  Could anyone direct me to the short form of the 
 instructions or give me a little hint as to which ports may work? By the 
 way, the OS I am using on the Thinkpad is the last version of XP.
 
 73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] Finally got N1MM to work

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin
It only took six hours this time to install and setup N1MM to run with 
my K3.  Hopefully it will work tomorrow when I reboot that computer.  I 
wish the documentation was not so confusing.  Most application manuals I 
read are not so obfuscated.  A few real world examples would have been 
nice.  Simply guessing at the settings to make things work is a 
ludicrous method of obtaining the goal desired.  If I had not found the 
Winkey check box by mere luck I would still be banging at the keyboard.  
A good index to the documentation would be nice since searching by 
suspected keywords did not work at all!

Kevin.  KD5ONS


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 self activites

2014-06-27 Thread Fred Jensen
I worked at KSBY-TV supporting myself in college.  In the control room, 
large windows in the hall behind me, the transmitters were on the other 
side of the hall.  Many meters, had to read and log them every half 
hour.  Late at night, studying physics while on network with nothing 
local to do, I got this eerie feeling that all the meters were totally 
wrong and getting worse.  I never could turn around quickly enough to 
catch them at it.


Just say'in Dennis ...

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 6/27/2014 8:20 AM, Dennis L. Haarsager wrote:

In the past couple of weeks, in which I've otherwise not used my KX3, I've
noticed that it had turned itself on three or four times while connected to
an AC supply.  I've since turned the power off on the p.s.  To my
knowledge, we've not had any power outages in that time.

Nothing seems to be amiss with the radio's performance other than that.
  But I either have a poltergeist in the basement or something weird is
going on with the radio.



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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Charles Tropp via Elecraft
Yes, sometimes, trial and error works the best Kevin. Setting up for 
field day is also very simple. First open N1MM and make sure you are at 
the entry window. Now click File at the top. Click on new database 
on the menu that opens. For a file name I would suggest ARRL Field 
Day. Now click save. Go back to File and in the menu that opens select 
the first line new log in data base. In the window that opens, up at 
the top push down on the little down arrow and scroll through the 
alphabetical list until you see FD. Click on that entry. Now in the 
contest tab below look at all the pre-filled entries to see if they 
match your proposed operation. You can explore each by clicking on the 
little drop down arrow. My entries in the order listed are: Single-Op, 
All, Low, CW, (N/A overlay), Fixed, Assisted, One. You may wish to 
consult the rules to see what applies to you. Just press the button to 
the right labeled Show Rules. Now your sent exchange should be filled 
in according to the class of station that you have and your ARRL 
section. The example already filled in may already have your section but 
not your class. Now click on the tab called Associated Files. The 
first line refers to the Master.DTA Filename. It should be Master.DTA. 
Make sure you have the latest version installed on your computer. To 
check, close out the open window by clicking on OK at the bottom. Now to 
to the tab Tools on the entry window and select download latest check 
partial file. Follow the instructions on the website to download and 
install the latest file. While you're at it also _download_ and _import_ 
the latest Country File in the Tools menu. One last thing and we're 
done. Open the N1MM website and click on the Files Tab. On the menu 
that opens select sample function key files. Then click on the CW keys.

On 6/27/2014 9:01 PM, Kevin wrote:
Thank you.  After I finally found this by a chance discovery you have 
reaffirmed my effort.  Could you please tell me which template to 
choose for Field Day?

73,
 Kevin.   KD5ONS


On 6/27/2014 5:48 PM, Charles Tropp wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Setting up the K3 and the Winkeyer is actually pretty simple. Lets 
assume that you have connected your K3 to your laptop on your serial 
port. Let's also assume that you have connected your Winkeyer and 
that it has passed the communication test. Now your serial port is 
probably Com1. So open N1MM make sure you have the information and 
entry windows open. Now click on Config at the top of the entry 
window. Then select the very first line on the drop down menu called 
configure ports, mode control, ports, other. This will open the 
rather intimidating configurer window. Make sure the Hardware tab 
has been selected. Look at the first column, do you see Com1 on the 
left? Now click the little down arrow on that line and select the 
Elecraft K3 from the list that opens. Now push the set button on 
the right hand side. All the suggested Elecraft K3 settings have 
already been set for you. Just press OK down at the bottom. Now 
select the Winkey tab. Again, the settings have already been 
selected for you. Click OK at the bottom. When you do you will see 
the Winkey version appear on the Information window. Voila! You 
should be in business.


Good Luck, Charles N2SO

On 6/27/2014 7:04 PM, Kevin wrote:
I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB 
connection from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The 
laptop is hooked directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true 
serial port with a DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set 
the com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial 
connection and one for the USB connection. Reading the installation 
notes for N1MM just buries me in information when all I really need 
is a picture of which com ports to use. The last time I did this I 
just worked my way through all combinations until one magically 
worked. Currently I don't have that kind of patience :)  Could 
anyone direct me to the short form of the instructions or give me a 
little hint as to which ports may work? By the way, the OS I am 
using on the Thinkpad is the last version of XP.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Help: 

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 self activites

2014-06-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Another Cal Poly grad? I was an EL major there from 1963 to 1965, US Navy
from 1965-1969, and Math / Comp Sci from 1968-1971. It's a great place,
isn't it?

I remember a drive up Cuesta Grade and up the hill to KSBY once, we took a
two meter radio and some sort of antenna up on that hill for some event.  It
was a long time ago, I can't remember why.  But we visited the transmitter
site and I remember we were invited in.

73 Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 18:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 self activites

I worked at KSBY-TV supporting myself in college.  In the control room,
large windows in the hall behind me, the transmitters were on the other side
of the hall.  Many meters, had to read and log them every half hour.  Late
at night, studying physics while on network with nothing local to do, I got
this eerie feeling that all the meters were totally wrong and getting worse.
I never could turn around quickly enough to catch them at it.

Just say'in Dennis ...

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 6/27/2014 8:20 AM, Dennis L. Haarsager wrote:
 In the past couple of weeks, in which I've otherwise not used my KX3, 
 I've noticed that it had turned itself on three or four times while 
 connected to an AC supply.  I've since turned the power off on the 
 p.s.  To my knowledge, we've not had any power outages in that time.

 Nothing seems to be amiss with the radio's performance other than that.
   But I either have a poltergeist in the basement or something weird 
 is going on with the radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM setup help

2014-06-27 Thread Charles Tropp via Elecraft
Sorry Kevin, I pressed send before I was quite done. In the CW keys 
right click on the one that reads FD-CW.mc. Download that file and save 
it to your N1MM directory. Now go back to the entry window, select file, 
open log in database, associated files, and in the CW function key 
filename line, click Change in the far right and find the sample 
function key file that you just downloaded. Click open when you find it. 
Then OK to close out the open window. Take a look at your entry window, 
see if the function keys are to your liking. If now they can be edited 
by going to Configure, change CW function key definitions. An editor 
will open and you can make the changes directly. Save the file and you 
are in business. I am sorry this took so long to explain, but it is much 
easier done than written about. With experience you will become a pro. 
If you have specific questions, do not hesitate to contact me. I am 
about done for the night but I'll be back early tomorrow. Hope to wrk 
you in FD. CUL.


73, Charles N2SO.


On 6/27/2014 9:01 PM, Kevin wrote:
Thank you.  After I finally found this by a chance discovery you have 
reaffirmed my effort.  Could you please tell me which template to 
choose for Field Day?

73,
 Kevin.   KD5ONS


On 6/27/2014 5:48 PM, Charles Tropp wrote:

Hi Kevin,

Setting up the K3 and the Winkeyer is actually pretty simple. Lets 
assume that you have connected your K3 to your laptop on your serial 
port. Let's also assume that you have connected your Winkeyer and 
that it has passed the communication test. Now your serial port is 
probably Com1. So open N1MM make sure you have the information and 
entry windows open. Now click on Config at the top of the entry 
window. Then select the very first line on the drop down menu called 
configure ports, mode control, ports, other. This will open the 
rather intimidating configurer window. Make sure the Hardware tab 
has been selected. Look at the first column, do you see Com1 on the 
left? Now click the little down arrow on that line and select the 
Elecraft K3 from the list that opens. Now push the set button on 
the right hand side. All the suggested Elecraft K3 settings have 
already been set for you. Just press OK down at the bottom. Now 
select the Winkey tab. Again, the settings have already been 
selected for you. Click OK at the bottom. When you do you will see 
the Winkey version appear on the Information window. Voila! You 
should be in business.


Good Luck, Charles N2SO

On 6/27/2014 7:04 PM, Kevin wrote:
I am using my IBM Thinkpad with an older K1EL keyer.  The keyer is 
plugged into the back of the K3 in the keyer socket.  The USB 
connection from the K1EL keyer is hooked to the Thinkpad.  The 
laptop is hooked directly to the K3 via its serial port; yes, a true 
serial port with a DB9 connector.


Now comes the problem: Setting the com ports correctly.

It has been years since I last hooked this together and I just today 
installed N1MM onto the recently installed OS.  I know I need to set 
the com ports to get it running correctly.  One for the serial 
connection and one for the USB connection. Reading the installation 
notes for N1MM just buries me in information when all I really need 
is a picture of which com ports to use. The last time I did this I 
just worked my way through all combinations until one magically 
worked. Currently I don't have that kind of patience :)  Could 
anyone direct me to the short form of the instructions or give me a 
little hint as to which ports may work? By the way, the OS I am 
using on the Thinkpad is the last version of XP.


73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM lack of instructions

2014-06-27 Thread Gary K9GS

Kevin,

Did you look at the Getting Started documentation at:

http://n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=N1MM+Logger+Documentation

It's pretty foolproof.  For specific information on interfacing with a 
K3 see:


http://n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=Supported+Radios#K3 
http://n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=Supported+Radios#K3



On 6/27/2014 7:59 PM, Kevin wrote:
I finally guessed the correct setup.  No searching of N1MM's 
documentation helped at all.  It was simply guessing which made the 
setup work.


Since COM1 is used by the Elecraft K3 and the Winkeyer uses COM4 I 
thought COM1 should be set as the CW port.  No, this is incorrect. It 
is solely the control port and not the CW port.  What is necessary is 
to go into setup from the Configure panel and check one box.  That box 
says Winkey.  I have yet to find this explained anywhere or by 
anyone.  It was just random chance that lead me to the dialog box I 
needed.  I picked COM4 and setup to get there. Once I checked the 
Winkey box I was able to use CW from the N1MM application.


Now how many more hours will it take before I discover how to load a 
Field Day template?  Does anyone use N1MM for a contest logger?


Kevin.  KD5ONS


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--


73,

Gary K9GS

Check out K9NS on the web:  http://www.k9ns.com
Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com



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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net warning

2014-06-27 Thread Kevin

Good Evening,
   Please don't wait for the net on Sunday.  As usual on Field Day I 
will not be running either net.  Why?  As I learned from Tevye: the best 
thing to do is spread your arms wide and proudly state Tradition!.  
Don't worry, I'll be back next week checking in as many of you as I can 
hear.
Good luck with Field Day and stay safe.  Beware of the sparrow 
sized mosquitoes of the South, heat stoke of the Midwest, the sticky 
maple syrup of New England, dehydration in the Southwest, or hypothermia 
in the Pacific Northwest.  Stay dry, let your generators cool before you 
refuel them, make sure they're grounded safely, watch out for falling 
antennas, don't eat too much :), and treat other operators with respect.

 Kevin.  KD5ONS


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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Brian Denley
I also have one of their fan dipoles: full size 40, full size 20 with coils and 
more wire on the ends that gives me shortened 80.  Excellent quality!  Great 
price.

Brian KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 6:16 AM, Gerry leary gerrylear...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 Thanks very much for showing me HYpower Anntennas.  They look very 
 interesting, and I am going to call them with questions.  Gerry
 
 Sent from my iPhone this time 
 
 On Jun 26, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org wrote:
 
 For pre-built antennas, HyPower is a good choice. He has lots of options, 
 fan dipoles, loaded dipoles, even combinations. I have a fan dipole made 
 from a full-size 40m element and an element that is full-size for 80 and 
 loaded for 80. He also sells the loading coils if you would rather DIY.
 
 http://www.hypowerantenna.com/
 
 wunder
 K6WRU
 
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
End of thread. 

In the future, please self moderate and end threads as quickly as possible in 
the interest of better list SNR. 

73,

Eric
Modulator
elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net warning

2014-06-27 Thread Walter Underwood
Kosher ham on the roof?

I saw Fiddler on the Roof on Broadway in a choir trip to NYC in 1972 (when my 
Novice ticket was still valid). It was a life-changing show. Remember to wear 
your hat.

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 27, 2014, at 9:30 PM, Kevin kev...@coho.net wrote:

 Good Evening,
   Please don't wait for the net on Sunday.  As usual on Field Day I will not 
 be running either net.  Why?  As I learned from Tevye: the best thing to do 
 is spread your arms wide and proudly state Tradition!.  Don't worry, I'll 
 be back next week checking in as many of you as I can hear.
Good luck with Field Day and stay safe.  Beware of the sparrow sized 
 mosquitoes of the South, heat stoke of the Midwest, the sticky maple syrup of 
 New England, dehydration in the Southwest, or hypothermia in the Pacific 
 Northwest.  Stay dry, let your generators cool before you refuel them, make 
 sure they're grounded safely, watch out for falling antennas, don't eat too 
 much :), and treat other operators with respect.
 Kevin.  KD5ONS

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

2014-06-27 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Hi Jim,

This thread has been closed. Please take further discussion off list in the 
interest of reducing list overload for others.


73,

Eric
elecraft.com

On 6/28/2014 9:32 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/27/2014 6:30 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
if you can couple RF into it, it will radiate. 


Yes. There are many ways to feed a vertical dipole. I developed a method that 
uses the outside of the coax as half of the dipole, and uses a ferrite choke 
to form the end insulator. The choke is positioned a quarter wave down the 
coax from the center insulator.




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