[Elecraft] wanted: KAT3 Internal ATU for K3

[Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA]

Hi everyone,
I am interested in purchasing a KAT3 internal ATU for my K3 and I was
wondering if anyone had one available as a result of an upgrade that they
are interested in selling.
Of course, I will pay the postage costs and if payment via Paypal is ok I
will cover any Paypal fee's too.

Many thanks in advance,
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
(Use mycall at arrl.net for emails off list please.)



-
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
Innisfail, QLD, Australia.
K3 #4767

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility questions

[a45wg]

Gary,
I also had a look around for control software - but could find nothing 
I really liked (There re some great programs out there) - but either too 
complex or not focused on what I want. So….

Write your own ! I know it sounds daunting - but the K3 has an 
excellent programming document - and the K3 Utility gives you a test bed to try 
out your commands (I would suggest a degree of caution) - once you have that 
done - it is simply a matter of an interface - which can be as complex or as 
simple as you want.

Assuming you do not want to write your own - but wish to use multiple programs 
at the same time - then….

Depending upon the port connection mechanism you are using - will 
depend if the port is available for other devices to use. Most software opens a 
device similar to a file - i.e. in exclusive mode. Thus blocking other programs 
from using that port.

However - there are options….

Mac: the Mac seems quite happy with the /dev/CU-x to allow multiple ports
Windows: I think on Windows you could look for a virtual port driver - and gain 
access to the “real” port using virtual ports. I did this years ago for sharing 
GPS Receivers amongst programs.
Linux:  you should use a Daemon (a Central process that listens to many clients 
who wish to talk to the Device). The Linux mechanism is far superior (Opps 
maybe I am a little biased, for it could be implemented as a service in Windows 
also - its just almost no Windows programmer ever does this) - but it does add 
another layer of complexity to the whole control process.

The Daemon/detached process mechanism is best/easiest used using ricgtld 
(Linux) - I do see people using it for Windows also - but I have no experience 
on that. 

Regards

Tim
A45WG




> On 1 Apr 2016, at 23:53, Gary Smith  wrote:
> 
> I'm starting to explore other options with 
> different software and my K3s. My main 
> interest is in being able to send CW, RTTY 
> and it would be a nice plus to send from 
> the voice memories when calling in a 
> pileup and not have to keep hitting the 
> function button every time I put out my 
> call.
> 
> Seeing as I have the K3 Utility already 
> working, I have found the terminal seems 
> to work well for the immediate needs on 
> CW. I do though have to run it separately 
> from my logging program because the only 
> port that is available is #8 and that is 
> dedicated to the K3 and the logging 
> program takes ownership of it. Once I make 
> a contact I have to shut off the utility 
> and load the program to get it logged. 
> Then if I want to use the terminal I have 
> to do it all over again.
> 
> I tried to use OmniRig to run the 
> K3/logging program and the Elecraft 
> Utility but see no way to share the 
> utility with it. 
> 
> - Is there another software to use the 
> terminal with the K3 at the same time? 
> Maybe another method? Right now I'm trying 
> not to add more hardware.
> 
> - Also, I tried to use the memories in the 
> Utilities terminal for RTTY but could not 
> get RTTY to work. I'm sure I missed 
> something I need to change in the 
> configuration but if so, I don't know what 
> it is.
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> 
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[Elecraft] OT: Windows 10 observations

[Ken G Kopp]

I have an HP desktop from Staples that started out with Windows 7 Home
Office and an HP laptop ... also from Staples ... with Windows 7.  Both
have Norton anti-virus protection that updates nightly, DX4WIN logging
programs, and N1MM+ contest loggers.  They are both set up with the
utilities to do updates of the K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500, KX3, PX3, KXPA100,
etc.  Both have 4-port USB hubs, photo editing programs and other assorted
devices hooked up.

I use MS Excel for coordinating Montana's VHF and UHF repeaters.  The
program is "busy" with about 1200 lines of data.

Both (automatically) updated to Windows 10 a few weeks ago. They are
connected 24/7 to the Internet via a secured router and CenturyLink DSL and
spend several hours prowling on line each night.

Most likely due to Century Link and Norton I seldom get SPAM.

The point of all the above ... it all works and doesn't quit.  I know very
little about computers, but I'm happy with Windows 10!

73

K0PP
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[Elecraft] Rotating Antenna from a remote location.

[Don Strom]

Am getting ready to order K3S with the remote rig duo from Elecraft.

Any one out there that is rotating their antennas remotely?

If so, very interested in what you are using to do the job.

Thanks!  Don  W0EAR

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment on top of K3?

[Jim Brown]

Yes, that works fine, and it's how mine are mounted. I use velcro tabs 
to keep the P3 from sliding back -- I use the tilt-bale on the bottom of 
the K3 to place it at a good viewing and operating angle.


73, Jim K9YC

On Fri,4/1/2016 5:46 PM, Mike Dodd wrote:
it allowed to place the P3 on top of the K3? I see ventilation slots 
in the top panel, but I think the P3 has feet that elevate it. Is 
there enough clearance for satisfactory K3 ventilation?


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[Elecraft] [OT] Rules on selling...

[Phil Hystad]

What are the rules or what is the proper polite protocol for selling on the 
Elecraft list.  I see Elecraft equipment all the time listed for sale and 
sometimes I see other stuff not made by Elecraft.  Not sure whether my item is 
right for the list (a Tek scope).

Thanks,
73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Oscillating Lab Power Supply

[Richard W. Solomon]

Or, you could go over to that "auction" place and buy a real power supply, 
like Kepco or Lambda or ... (one marked ..."Made in U.S.A."...). 
If you want the "Cadillac of the Industry, find a Krohn-Hite.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Ellington
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2016 6:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Oscillating Lab Power Supply

The other day, I was testing my new KX-1 with one of these power supplies:

http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-HY3005D-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B000E14F56

It caused some awful garbage to come out of the KX-1, which was caused by
the power supply oscillating and generating a bunch of 120 Hz ripple.
They're sold under several brand names, and there are several versions, all
basically the same.  I'm guessing I'm not the only one who was attracted to
their low price.

The fix is easy, though it took most of the day to figure out. Contact me if
you need it.

73,

Scott  K9MA

--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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[Elecraft] Oscillating Lab Power Supply

[Scott Ellington]

The other day, I was testing my new KX-1 with one of these power supplies:

http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-HY3005D-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B000E14F56

It caused some awful garbage to come out of the KX-1, which was caused 
by the power supply oscillating and generating a bunch of 120 Hz 
ripple.  They're sold under several brand names, and there are several 
versions, all basically the same.  I'm guessing I'm not the only one who 
was attracted to their low price.


The fix is easy, though it took most of the day to figure out. Contact 
me if you need it.


73,

Scott  K9MA

--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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[Elecraft] Equipment on top of K3?

[Mike Dodd]

I'm eagerly awaiting delivery of a K3s/100 kit on Tuesday. I didn't 
order the P3 panadapter, but plan to in a few months.


Is it allowed to place the P3 on top of the K3? I see ventilation slots 
in the top panel, but I think the P3 has feet that elevate it. Is there 
enough clearance for satisfactory K3 ventilation?


Thanks for any info.

--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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[Elecraft] K3/100 F.S. MINT With options

[Ron Durie]

Elecraft K3/100; Late #7504, which includes all factory upgrades, in Mint
condition.  
This is an excellent K3, out of the box.

K3SYN3AUPG newest Synthesizer option installed.  This significantly improves
receiver performance.  

KXV3A Receive ANT IF out and XVRTR Interface board, installed.  
KIO3 I/O board option, installed.  

Standard KTCXO3 Reference Oscillator, 0.5PPM. 
KBPF3 General Coverage Receive option, installed.  

Standard 5 pole 2.7 kHz crystal filter.
KAT3 Internal automatic antenna tuner option, installed.  

In "Like New" condition.  No scratches or blemishes.  Even all the front
panel knobs are new.  One owner nonsmoker; and 18 months old. 

When I build, these I treat every connector pin with Caig De-Oxit Pro gold
solution, to prevent pin Oxidation; intermittent connections; easy connector
insertion; with very low contact resistance.  

Includes PowerPole Power cable; Allen wrenches; PA Jumper; and all manuals. 

Contact me off line at:  WB4OOA at gmail.com 
$2695 Shipped CONUS.  PayPal preferred; Check when cleared; and pictures
available upon request. 

Ron Durie
Elecraft K3s-Line





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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Actually Willis, there is no additional tuner.  Just the motor in the antenna 
and a single base matching coil.  I have put in a 15 turn airdux coil and use 
taps to set the best for 80 and up.  Works for me.
Pictures on on file at several elecraft/antenna/mobile/HI-Q/ etc blogs. 
Anything in particular and I will send it direct.

Mel, K6KBE


  From: Mike Furrey 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 7:47 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
   
I use the HiQ 4-80 with a 2' mast extender mounted on the back bumper of a 
F150. At the base of the antenna I have a hb box of six relays to switch in the 
appropriate capacitors to match the feed point impeadance and I use the 
Ameritron SDC-102 memory controller that does a good job of going to the saved 
locations but I usually have to give it a "bump" or two on 60, 80, or 160 (with 
aux coil I can add if I have to get on that band).

As this system is "almost" seamless, and as someone else mentioned. I still 
stop to change bands to keep it safe.

The old ARRL mobile manual is still pretty good read on this subject.

73 es GL Mike WA5POK
On Thu, 3/31/16, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft  wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
 To: "Mel Farrer" , "Bill Frantz" 
, "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 Date: Thursday, March 31, 2016, 10:44 PM
 
 Interesting comments Mel.
  I have purchased  a Little Tarheel and installed it on my
 vehicle, but I have not got around to doing anything with
 it.  I have a MFJ tuner that looks like it will work as
 well as the one you use.  Are you using a Coax switch?  I
 would be interested in your pictures if you have them on
 line.  I also have a MFJ tuner that I have not installed as
 yet, but it looks like if you installed the tuner so that it
 is in line with the anslyzer or the rig when you have a coax
 switch installed you could use auto tune and then see what
 you have as well. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,
 
       From: Mel Farrer via
 Elecraft 
  To: Bill Frantz ;
 "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
 
 
  Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 4:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation
 "bible"
    
 While I never tune while driving, I got rid of
 the autotuners for the HI-Q 5-160 antenna and installed a
 switch to allow me to transfer the antenna to a FG-01
 analyzer.  So when I need to move frequency, I pull over
 stop, switch to the analyzer and tune the antenna.  Simple
 and fool proof.  Legal too.  Pictures on file.
 
 Mel, K6KBE
 
 
       From: Bill Frantz
 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
  Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 1:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation
 "bible"
   
 I have
 a Little Tarheel screwdriver antenna on the 4Runner. It 
 works well on 21MHz and higher, and less well
 as you go down in 
 frequency. When parked, I
 try to add an external counterpose 
 clipped
 to the ground side of the antenna mount, which seems to 
 help on 40M. I really think you want your
 counterpose to be on 
 the order of 1/4 wave
 long, and the 4Runner isn't 10 meters long.
 
 I do remember doing search and
 pounce in the California QSO 
 party on 80M.
 As I tuned up the band and found a new station, I 
 had to re-turn the antenna, which I did while
 giving my call. 
 Everyone who answered said
 something along the line of, "You're 
 down in the noise, but we'll make it
 work." I thank them.
 
 73 Bill AE6JV
 
 ---
 Bill Frantz        | I don't have
 high-speed      | Periwinkle
 (408)356-8506      | internet. I have DSL. 
       | 16345 
 Englewood Ave
 www.pwpconsult.com |                 
             | Los Gatos, 
 CA 95032
 
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 Message delivered to farrerfo...@yahoo.com
 
 
   
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 Please help 

Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Dick via Elecraft]

Don,
I have my sub receiver connected to the AUX input, and it still works just fine 
with diversity receive.  The way you do is connect your receive only antenna to 
the RX in BNC on the back of the K3,  then run a short piece of coax with male 
BNC connectors on each in between the RX OUT and the AUX input.  Not sure why 
this method has not been mentioned in the manual. I have being doing this since 
I purchased my original K3.  I use either Beverages, or the Hi Z 8 now; but am 
in the process of erecting a SAL 30 fro Array Solutions.   That will give me 
three different choices for receive antennas.
Dick, K8ZTT 

  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 12:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the 
KAT3
   
Sverre,

That task can be accomplished by removing only the top cover.

The angled TMP connector on the subRX is a little difficult to reach 
without tilting the back of the subRX up a bit, but it can be done.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/1/2016 1:56 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:
> When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
> input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
> want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
> reception.
>
> How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in another 30 cm
> tmp cable to the KRX3 board than the one I am using now.

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[Elecraft] FS: SOLD - 6 KHz AM/ESSB filter

[Jim Spears]

The filter is sold.

 

Jim

N1NK

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[Elecraft] K3 Utility questions

[Gary Smith]

I'm starting to explore other options with 
different software and my K3s. My main 
interest is in being able to send CW, RTTY 
and it would be a nice plus to send from 
the voice memories when calling in a 
pileup and not have to keep hitting the 
function button every time I put out my 
call.

Seeing as I have the K3 Utility already 
working, I have found the terminal seems 
to work well for the immediate needs on 
CW. I do though have to run it separately 
from my logging program because the only 
port that is available is #8 and that is 
dedicated to the K3 and the logging 
program takes ownership of it. Once I make 
a contact I have to shut off the utility 
and load the program to get it logged. 
Then if I want to use the terminal I have 
to do it all over again.

I tried to use OmniRig to run the 
K3/logging program and the Elecraft 
Utility but see no way to share the 
utility with it. 

- Is there another software to use the 
terminal with the K3 at the same time? 
Maybe another method? Right now I'm trying 
not to add more hardware.

- Also, I tried to use the memories in the 
Utilities terminal for RTTY but could not 
get RTTY to work. I'm sure I missed 
something I need to change in the 
configuration but if so, I don't know what 
it is.

Suggestions?

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J

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Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Rose]

Some models of UHF under-dash Motorola mobiles have a short (+/- 6") TMP
M/M jumper cable connecting two boards.  A female circuit board connector
can be salvaged from the the radio for use as a end connector on the short
cable, making a M/F extension for the input to the 2nd receiver.  I have
the ends of this extension cable and the cable from the rear BNC rear
connector laid atop the 2nd receiver, making it an easy task to lift the
top cover and choose the antenna being fed to the 2nd receiver's input.

I'm not been able to find a source for cable-end female TMP connectors, or
even a part number to order them from Motorola ... and I'm a retired
two-way tech. (;-)

Perhaps Elecraft parts may have them.  I "scrounged" several cables and
boards from a friend who owns a two-way radio shop when I made mine and a
couple for friends.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K3/K3s KFL3A-6K AM/ESSB 8 pole filter

[Bob Darlington]

Interested, I'll mail direct.

On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 11:34 AM, Jim Spears  wrote:

> I am doing a bit of reconfiguration on one of my K3 units.  I do not need
> the 6 KHz AM/ESSB filter and would like to find a new home for it.
>
>
>
> Current Elecraft list price is $149.95.  I am asking $95 shipped USPS
> Priority mail stateside.  I will ship outside USA  for additional actual
> cost.
>
>
>
> Jim/N1NK
>
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> Message delivered to rdarling...@gmail.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

Thanks for very quick responses to my question - I'm overwhelmed! I'll remove
the top cover and start right away!

I have two antennas, and no special receive antenna, and the two antennas
are connected to ANT1 and ANT2 all the time. If I reroute the KRX3 AUX input
to the KAT3, I will be able to check out diversity - provided that the
antennas in practice are well enough isolated. It's a horizontal loop and a
vertical so I hope it should be fine, although the vertical is in one of the
corners of the loop.


73 and thanks



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Don Wilhelm]

Sverre,

That task can be accomplished by removing only the top cover.

The angled TMP connector on the subRX is a little difficult to reach 
without tilting the back of the subRX up a bit, but it can be done.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/1/2016 1:56 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:

When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
reception.

How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in another 30 cm
tmp cable to the KRX3 board than the one I am using now.


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 144, Issue 1

[Dauer, Edward]

And without in any way disparaging the K3, I’d add the same for the K2.  
Just got mine reliably on the air (with Don Wilhelm’s help), and within 
the first hour added ET7L and SO1WS to the log on 40, among less exotic 
others, using just an inverted Vee and under conditions of weak signals 
and unusually high noise, not to mention significant pileups in the UP 
space.

>Message: 28
>Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2016 10:43:57 -0400
>From: "Peter Chamalian" 
>To: 
>Subject: [Elecraft] Incredible Receiver
>Message-ID: <001001d18c24$ec3b8510$c4b28f30$@Comcast.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"
>
>Well the K3 is just amazing me once again.  Without the benefit of 
>anything
>special for antennas I have managed to hear and work VK0EK 160-10.  As the
>saying goes, you can't work 'em if you can't hear them.  The toughest was
>160 (a hold your breath and focus) but there it was in the log!  Ditto 
>this
>morning on 10 although they were louder but lots of QSB.
>
> 
>
>Thanks again Elecraft for a truly great radio!
>
> 
>
>Pete, W1RM
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Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Nr4c]

I put both cables in at build time. Unused one is routed into the shielded area 
and secured to the shield. 

Easy to re-configure. Take off top and change cables. A pair of surgical clamps 
may be useful. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)  wrote:
> 
> When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
> input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
> want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
> reception. 
> 
> How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in another 30 cm
> tmp cable to the KRX3 board than the one I am using now. But how many panels
> do I need to remove from the K3? The top I'm sure I need to remove, but is
> that enough?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Sverre, LA3ZA
> 
> K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
> LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
> LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
> http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Rerouting-the-KRX3-AUX-Input-from-the-Rear-BNC-to-the-KAT3-tp7615802.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Sverre,

just curious, why would you like to route the 2nd RX through the KAT3? 
What is it that you trying to accomplish?


Arie PA3A

Op 1-4-2016 om 19:56 schreef Sverre Holm (LA3ZA):

When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
reception.

How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in another 30 cm
tmp cable to the KRX3 board than the one I am using now. But how many panels
do I need to remove from the K3? The top I'm sure I need to remove, but is
that enough?





-
Sverre, LA3ZA




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[Elecraft] Rerouting the KRX3 AUX Input from the Rear BNC to the KAT3

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

When I built my K3 some years ago I routed the second receiver's AUX antenna
input to the rear panel BNC connector. But now I have changed my mind and
want to route it through the KAT3 instead, in order to try diversity
reception. 

How complex is this to accomplish? I know I need to plug in another 30 cm
tmp cable to the KRX3 board than the one I am using now. But how many panels
do I need to remove from the K3? The top I'm sure I need to remove, but is
that enough?





-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
--
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

We're hitting the OT posting limit on this one. Let's wind it down in the next 
2-3 posts.


73,
Eric
Moderator from time to time..
/elecraft.com/

On 4/1/2016 10:23 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
My only attempt at HF in a mobile was on my old 78 Scout Traveler (diesel).  
Before heading to AK I had a welder install a big front bumper with space for 
a winch and brush guard for front grill and head lights.  Alas, I never bought 
the winch so had a tool box installed in its place. ...


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi folks - We closed this OT thread yesterday due to the excessively high number 
of postings.


73,

Eric
Moodulator
/elecraft.com/

On 4/1/2016 9:17 AM, Jerry T. Dowell wrote:

My Conditional Class code exam in 1954, administered by an Extra Class ham,
was mixed code groups (5-letter as I recall) sent from an old Signal Corps
manual at 15 wpm or so with a bug. I imagine that a few others who lived in
the boondocks had similar experiences. The rules, of course, called for
plain language text.

Jerry  AI6L

-Original Message-
From: lstavenhagen [mailto:lstavenha...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 1:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

Oops, my apologies: one of those was me, my excuse will have to be that it
was in 1973 and I guess those memories are no longer what they used to be!

I probably mixed that up with my code practice tapes, which definitely did
have 4 letter code group parts

73,
LS
W5QD


Mike Morrow-3 wrote

Code groups were never part of ham exams at any speed.

Exactly!  Yet some report, even here in the past few days, that their ham
Morse exams were random character code groups.  Thanks for information to
the contrary that can be neither doubted nor disputed!

73,
Mike / KK5F


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[Elecraft] FS: K3/K3s KFL3A-6K AM/ESSB 8 pole filter

[Jim Spears]

I am doing a bit of reconfiguration on one of my K3 units.  I do not need
the 6 KHz AM/ESSB filter and would like to find a new home for it.

 

Current Elecraft list price is $149.95.  I am asking $95 shipped USPS
Priority mail stateside.  I will ship outside USA  for additional actual
cost.

 

Jim/N1NK

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Edward R Cole]

My only attempt at HF in a mobile was on my old 78 Scout Traveler 
(diesel).  Before heading to AK I had a welder install a big front 
bumper with space for a winch and brush guard for front grill and 
head lights.  Alas, I never bought the winch so had a tool box 
installed in its place.  OK I used the 1-inch steel tubing as a clamp 
support for a Hustler 4BTX which I had the 80m whip option.  It stuck 
up there a ways so was only installed when I was parked.  Worked 
K4USA (I think the call was) from Eagle, AK to the Antarctic via 20m 
and 100w.  The scout was a heavy rig 4500-lbs. and had a nice steel 
frame which probably helped.


Now if you want a challenge install a 4-MHz HF Marine SSB station on 
a fishing boat (typ. 25-35 foot).  The one's with fiberglass hulls 
can be a challenge.  Most Marine HF used either 21-foot or 35-foot 
whips and had a manual tuner (In the old days vs auto-tuner now days) 
attached to something metallic right at the base of the 
antenna.  Usually had a 1-inch mesh ground strap to ground and RG-8 
to the radio.  The manual tuners had a motorized switch to select 
taps in the loading coil and jumpers for the bank of fixed tuning 
caps.  Fortunately only about six to eight channels were programmed 
as one could spend a hour easily trying to find the best combo of tap 
position and capacity.  2182-KHz was the mandatory emergency watch 
frequency and getting a good match was awful. 4125-KHz (4A) was the 
standard in AK for all the fisherman and one could hear them some 
times out to 800 mi at night.  100-125w was standard.


On my last job I installed a Harris 1kW linear to serve as Marine HF 
Base on 4125 and strung a dipole at 40-foot between two Rohn-25 
towers (nice to be a rich oil company!).  They sold them as Satellite 
telephone has largely replaced HF for commercial marine.  Boats still 
have them but little used.


Sorry about reminiscing - the topic reminded me of those days in early 1980's.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Incredible Receiver

[Wes]

Or as they say in real estate, "Location, location, location"

On 4/1/2016 7:43 AM, Peter Chamalian wrote:

Well the K3 is just amazing me once again.  Without the benefit of anything
special for antennas I have managed to hear and work VK0EK 160-10.  As the
saying goes, you can't work 'em if you can't hear them.  The toughest was
160 (a hold your breath and focus) but there it was in the log!  Ditto this
morning on 10 although they were louder but lots of QSB.

  


Thanks again Elecraft for a truly great radio!

  


Pete, W1RM

  



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Mike Furrey]

I have found Ham sticks work fine on 20 and up but I won't talk about what 
happen to a 75 meter ham stick we were tinkering with and forgot to turn off 
the mobile amp!

On Fri, 4/1/16, Jim Brown  wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
 To: "Reflector Elecraft" 
 Date: Friday, April 1, 2016, 3:54 PM
 
 I used HamSticks.
 
 73, Jim
 
 On
 Fri,4/1/2016 4:57 AM, tnny...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 > >> When I still ran HF
 mobile, I found that a rig with an
 >
 auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth
 of an
 > antenna.<<
 > Jim, what type of antenna did you employed
 the auto-tuner?
 > Was it a screwdriver
 type antenna as in the HI-Q 5-160?
 > Or,
 was it an Hustler?
 >
 >
 73 Milverton / W9MMS.
 >
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[lstavenhagen]

Hi Don,
No problem, in fact going through those calcs would probably do me some
good. Part of why I'm building K2 #2 is to learn something along the way.
Especially when I have a problem or question I stop building and start
reading, and am having a great time lol. All kinds of things I didn't pay
attention to during K2 #1 a few years ago.

It occurred to me also that I could just do a continuity check with my DMM
directly at the board, from the pin I'm worried about (pin #6) to some point
at the board also. I'll get out the calculator!

You all are why I only do Elecraft rigs now!

thanks kind sir,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

[Jerry T. Dowell]

My Conditional Class code exam in 1954, administered by an Extra Class ham,
was mixed code groups (5-letter as I recall) sent from an old Signal Corps
manual at 15 wpm or so with a bug. I imagine that a few others who lived in
the boondocks had similar experiences. The rules, of course, called for
plain language text.

Jerry  AI6L

-Original Message-
From: lstavenhagen [mailto:lstavenha...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 1:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

Oops, my apologies: one of those was me, my excuse will have to be that it
was in 1973 and I guess those memories are no longer what they used to be!

I probably mixed that up with my code practice tapes, which definitely did
have 4 letter code group parts

73,
LS
W5QD


Mike Morrow-3 wrote
>> Code groups were never part of ham exams at any speed.
> 
> Exactly!  Yet some report, even here in the past few days, that their ham
> Morse exams were random character code groups.  Thanks for information to
> the contrary that can be neither doubted nor disputed!
> 
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[Don Wilhelm]

LS,

You can do a resistance check from the schematic if you are willing to 
do all the series/parallel resisance calculations.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/1/2016 11:39 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Hi Don,
Ok, thanks for the info. Would a resistance check according to the schematic
be reliable at this point (just finished the varactor diode installation
steps)? I dont know if I want to try to power anything up in the half built
state lol.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Jim Brown]

I used HamSticks.

73, Jim

On Fri,4/1/2016 4:57 AM, tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:

>> When I still ran HF mobile, I found that a rig with an
auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth of an
antenna.<<
Jim, what type of antenna did you employed the auto-tuner?
Was it a screwdriver type antenna as in the HI-Q 5-160?
Or, was it an Hustler?

73 Milverton / W9MMS.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Mike Furrey]

I use the HiQ 4-80 with a 2' mast extender mounted on the back bumper of a 
F150. At the base of the antenna I have a hb box of six relays to switch in the 
appropriate capacitors to match the feed point impeadance and I use the 
Ameritron SDC-102 memory controller that does a good job of going to the saved 
locations but I usually have to give it a "bump" or two on 60, 80, or 160 (with 
aux coil I can add if I have to get on that band).

As this system is "almost" seamless, and as someone else mentioned. I still 
stop to change bands to keep it safe.

The old ARRL mobile manual is still pretty good read on this subject.

73 es GL Mike WA5POK
On Thu, 3/31/16, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft  wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
 To: "Mel Farrer" , "Bill Frantz" 
, "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 Date: Thursday, March 31, 2016, 10:44 PM
 
 Interesting comments Mel.
  I have purchased  a Little Tarheel and installed it on my
 vehicle, but I have not got around to doing anything with
 it.  I have a MFJ tuner that looks like it will work as
 well as the one you use.  Are you using a Coax switch?  I
 would be interested in your pictures if you have them on
 line.  I also have a MFJ tuner that I have not installed as
 yet, but it looks like if you installed the tuner so that it
 is in line with the anslyzer or the rig when you have a coax
 switch installed you could use auto tune and then see what
 you have as well. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,
 
       From: Mel Farrer via
 Elecraft 
  To: Bill Frantz ;
 "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
 
 
  Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 4:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation
 "bible"
    
 While I never tune while driving, I got rid of
 the autotuners for the HI-Q 5-160 antenna and installed a
 switch to allow me to transfer the antenna to a FG-01
 analyzer.  So when I need to move frequency, I pull over
 stop, switch to the analyzer and tune the antenna.  Simple
 and fool proof.  Legal too.  Pictures on file.
 
 Mel, K6KBE
 
 
       From: Bill Frantz
 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
  Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 1:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation
 "bible"
   
 I have
 a Little Tarheel screwdriver antenna on the 4Runner. It 
 works well on 21MHz and higher, and less well
 as you go down in 
 frequency. When parked, I
 try to add an external counterpose 
 clipped
 to the ground side of the antenna mount, which seems to 
 help on 40M. I really think you want your
 counterpose to be on 
 the order of 1/4 wave
 long, and the 4Runner isn't 10 meters long.
 
 I do remember doing search and
 pounce in the California QSO 
 party on 80M.
 As I tuned up the band and found a new station, I 
 had to re-turn the antenna, which I did while
 giving my call. 
 Everyone who answered said
 something along the line of, "You're 
 down in the noise, but we'll make it
 work." I thank them.
 
 73 Bill AE6JV
 
 ---
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 high-speed      | Periwinkle
 (408)356-8506      | internet. I have DSL. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[lstavenhagen]

Hi Don,
Ok, thanks for the info. Would a resistance check according to the schematic
be reliable at this point (just finished the varactor diode installation
steps)? I dont know if I want to try to power anything up in the half built
state lol.

I'm pretty confident in the daughter board since I checked it over after
flush cutting it, etc. One of the pins got hot enough to melt the solder on
the daughter board itself while I was soldering it to the RF board (my fault
for holding heat onto the pad at RP3 too long) and it rocked out of place a
bit before I repositioned it. 

It looks ok and I dont know if I dare try to get my soldering iron in there
to try to "touch it up". So I'd just like to do a continuity check on that
pin. And maybe the whole board while I'm at it?

Thanks kind sir,
LS
W5QD




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[Don Wilhelm]

LS,

The most common problem with the thermistor board is a solder bridge on 
that board.
One quick check is the voltage at U6 pin 5 which should be 1/2 of the 8 
volt supply.
Another check is to see if the voltage at U6 pin 1 is twice the voltage 
at pin 3.  Those voltages will change as the VFO is changed over a 10kHz 
range, so check with several positions of the VFO.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/1/2016 10:41 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Hi all,
Is there a procedure where I could check the K2 thermistor board for proper
operation once soldered in? I just passed that step in my second K2 build,
and I'm uncertain about one of the pins - it rocked out of place while I was
soldering it to the RF board, but of course it's now soldered in. It's not
just in there but it's IN THERE hi hi and I'd like to check it before
tearing it up trying to pull it out of the board.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Decoding high speed CW

[w7aqk]

Hi All,

I think all the FCC code exams were plain text, not code groups--at least to 
my memory going back to the 50's.  The reason may be obvious, in that the 
examiner had to check them "on the spot", and code groups would have been 
too difficult to check.  I took the Extra Class exam in front of an FCC 
examiner, and I know that was plain text.  I think those guys had the test 
material memorized, because they were checking them off pretty fast!   On my 
test I bracketed a big section I knew was right, and showed it to the 
examiner.  He looked at it for about 3 seconds, and said, "Yeah, you 
passed"!


In the Army, all we used were 5 letter code groups, and those were a bearcat 
to check!  I had that job for a while, and hated it!  Sometimes the hardest 
part was even deciphering what had been written down.  Unfortunately, 
penmanship was never part of the curricula!


Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] Incredible Receiver

[lstavenhagen]

Yep, I was going to sell my K3 to help pay for my K3S, but after putting the
new synthesizer upgrade in it, it seems to refuse to go up for sale hi hi.
Now I need to come up with a Ponzi scheme of some kind so I can keep both
rigs.

The only thing better than a K3 + new synth that you can buy now is a K3S
and at that I can hardly tell the difference between mine. 

As for VK0EK, I'm going to have to pull out all the stops to try to work
them on any band. The K3/10 plus Buddipole is all I got, but I do have
several mountain tops in the area reachable by 4WD vehicle. 10,000 feet
above sea level will hopefully do the trick...

73,
LS
W5QD 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[lstavenhagen]

PS: I've looked at the schematic but I've gone as far as putting the varactor
diodes in, so I'm unsure if there's enough circuitry installed to mess up
just going by the schematic for it...

Help Me, Obiwan!

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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[Elecraft] Incredible Receiver

[Peter Chamalian]

Well the K3 is just amazing me once again.  Without the benefit of anything
special for antennas I have managed to hear and work VK0EK 160-10.  As the
saying goes, you can't work 'em if you can't hear them.  The toughest was
160 (a hold your breath and focus) but there it was in the log!  Ditto this
morning on 10 although they were louder but lots of QSB.

 

Thanks again Elecraft for a truly great radio!

 

Pete, W1RM

 

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[Elecraft] K2 thermistor board check

[lstavenhagen]

Hi all,
Is there a procedure where I could check the K2 thermistor board for proper
operation once soldered in? I just passed that step in my second K2 build,
and I'm uncertain about one of the pins - it rocked out of place while I was
soldering it to the RF board, but of course it's now soldered in. It's not
just in there but it's IN THERE hi hi and I'd like to check it before
tearing it up trying to pull it out of the board.

Visual inspection still shows the makeshift pin in place, but I'd just like
to do some kind of measurement or continuity at the RP3 location just to be
sure.

Thanks es 73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Myron Schaffer]

All, 

The coax length doesn't matter because of the following reasons. Assuming the 
tuner is at the rig, there is a run of any coax to the antenna feed point, and 
you have a fairly high Q low band antenna that can't QSY much. 

With short HF mobile antennas that are high Q the reactance at the feed point 
when you QSY beyond 3:1 or so makes the system very lossy regardless of how low 
a loss or how short of coax is in there. 

The power accepted by the antenna under these conditions goes down the further 
you QSY due to the large reactance leaving the dissipated power to be burned up 
in the coax (and some in the imperfect antenna tuner at the rig) no matter how 
low loss it is or how short it is. You cannot increase the power accepted by 
the antenna unless you bring the feed point back closer to 50-ohms somehow 
through external loading of the antenna. (Even then there are other loss 
factors to consider such as ground loss and radiation resistance).

It's kind of like a "tug of war" between two Qs. The antenna Q and the tuner Q 
with the coax in the middle accepting all the power.

73/72,
Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data

> On Mar 31, 2016, at 11:09 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Bearing in mind that in a mobile installation, coax is too short to introduce 
> enough loss to matter, so it's merely a matter of making the rig's output 
> stage happy (and running at full output).
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

>> When I still ran HF mobile, I found that a rig with an 
auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth of an 
antenna.<
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 12:09 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
   
On Thu,3/31/2016 2:13 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> While I never tune while driving, I got rid of the autotuners for the HI-Q 
> 5-160 antenna and installed a switch to allow me to transfer the antenna to a 
> FG-01 analyzer.

Short loaded antennas are, by their nature, pretty narrow band for 
tuning. When I still ran HF mobile, I found that a rig with an 
auto-tuner was a big help in extending the useful bandwidth of an 
antenna. If, for example, the antenna was resonant on 7075, a tuner 
might match it to the rig from 7000 to 7150 or even higher, whereas 
without the tuner I'd be limited to about half that.

Bearing in mind that in a mobile installation, coax is too short to 
introduce enough loss to matter, so it's merely a matter of making the 
rig's output stage happy (and running at full output).

73, Jim K9YC
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