Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Wes Stewart]

Slick.

I have a bunch of those shelves in a bigger size in the garage.

Wes   N7WS

On 3/26/2018 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save some 
desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - and I'm very happy 
with both cost and quality.  For any also interested in stacking their gear 
without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap 


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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Bob Nielsen]

I use the same rack in black (from Amazon).

73,


On 3/26/18 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and 
save some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - 
and I'm very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also 
interested in stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[Don Wilhelm]

Mark,

The amplifier is not keyed while the KAT1500 is tuning.
Similar to the KPA500 and KAT500.

You do not have to put the amp in standby, it is done automatically.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2018 9:34 PM, Mark E. Musick wrote:

Hi Jay,
Why would you need the HF AUTO ("My question is this. Is there an option
with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep hitting stand-by
on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto")? The KPA1500
has a built-in tuner. Is there a reason you do not want to use it?

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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[EricJ]

And you can still warm pies over the KPA500.

Eric KE6US


On 3/26/2018 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and 
save some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - 
and I'm very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also 
interested in stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Nr4c]

Looks nice but can you get to the controls?  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 26, 2018, at 9:36 PM, Mike Markowski  wrote:
> 
> I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save some 
> desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - and I'm very happy 
> with both cost and quality.  For any also interested in stacking their gear 
> without the expense of rack mounting:
> 
>   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/
> 
> 73,
> Mike ab3ap
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Dave Fugleberg]

Very nice looking setup!
I use a similar rack from home depot which holds the K3, P3, four
transverters and amps for VHF / UHF, and associated SWR meters, etc. About
360 days of the year it sits on the desk in the shack connected to the
shack computer and antennas. When it's time for a VHF+ contest, the whole
thing relocates to the back seat of my truck for rover operations.
Works very well. I liked it so much that I bought a second rack for some
other stuff in the shack (rotor controllers, antennas switches, etc.).
On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 9:35 PM kevinr  wrote:

> Room for expansion too.  Very Cool.
>
> Kevin.  KD5ONS
>
>
> On 03/26/2018 06:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
> > I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and
> > save some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) -
> > and I'm very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also
> > interested in stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:
> >
> >http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/
> >
> > 73,
> > Mike ab3ap
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to kev...@coho.net
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[kevinr]

Room for expansion too.  Very Cool.

   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 03/26/2018 06:36 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and 
save some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - 
and I'm very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also 
interested in stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[John Nogatch]

>> On Mar 26, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski  wrote:
>> I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save some 
>> desk space. ...
>>   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

Yes, I like those chrome plated metal racks. I have used several of
them to make my operating desk strong and stable, and provide shelf
space for heavy battery, power supply, etc..

To stack the radios on top of the desk, I used PVC, as shown about 1/3
into this presentation:

https://www.slvarc.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Homebrew_2015.pdf

-John AC6SL
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Bill Johnson]

What a great idea.  Love the simplicity.  Thank you, Mike!

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Mike Markowski
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 8:36 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save some 
desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - and I'm very happy 
with both cost and quality.  For any also interested in stacking their gear 
without the expense of rack mounting:

http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[Bill Johnson]

I read this is a remote tuner?  Thus the question?

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Mark E. Musick
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 8:35 PM
To: 'Jason Pecora' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

Hi Jay,
Why would you need the HF AUTO ("My question is this. Is there an option with 
the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep hitting stand-by on the 
amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto")? The KPA1500 has a 
built-in tuner. Is there a reason you do not want to use it?

Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jason Pecora
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 9:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

Group good evening. I have a certain style of operation and a question about 
the KPA1500 I would like to ask in the group. My normal operation is the K3S 
into a Palstar HF Auto that tunes several antennas on my property.
I have had a lot of amplifiers in the past, from solid state to tube amps.
Currently I'm running a OMpower 2000+ amplifier. My normal process is that I 
have 2 memories set on the K-pod, one is that it puts the radio into tune mode 
at 8 watts out. This 8w output tunes the HF auto with low power until it gets a 
good match which is very quick. During this 8w tune I have the amplifier in 
stand-by mode, and all set to tune it next. After the 8w tune, I have the same 
button set up to "HOLD" the button for a 30w tune in which then I tune the 
amplifier which is pretty much ready to go off of a list that I compiled, just 
basically a touch up is all that is needed. The radio stays at 30w after that 
tune and I'm ready to go... My question is this. Is there an option with the 
KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep hitting stand-by on the 
amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto, can I set up a K-pod 
button to do this, or a button on the K3S? So basically does the K3S talk to 
the buttons on the KPA1500 so that I could create a stand-by butto
 n on the K-pod...I'm right on the fence on a purchase and this feature would 
really be of importance to me...

Jay KB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Rick McGaver]

Looks Very Nice !
NK 9G

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 26, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Mike Markowski  wrote:
> 
> I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save some 
> desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - and I'm very happy 
> with both cost and quality.  For any also interested in stacking their gear 
> without the expense of rack mounting:
> 
>   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/
> 
> 73,
> Mike ab3ap
> __
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[Elecraft] Pie rack K-Line

[Mike Markowski]

I found an economical way to go vertical with my Elecraft gear and save 
some desk space.  It's slightly off-beat - which suits me :-) - and I'm 
very happy with both cost and quality.  For any also interested in 
stacking their gear without the expense of rack mounting:


   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/rack/

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[Mark E. Musick]

Hi Jay,
Why would you need the HF AUTO ("My question is this. Is there an option
with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep hitting stand-by
on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto")? The KPA1500
has a built-in tuner. Is there a reason you do not want to use it?

Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Jason Pecora
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 9:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

Group good evening. I have a certain style of operation and a question about
the KPA1500 I would like to ask in the group. My normal operation is the K3S
into a Palstar HF Auto that tunes several antennas on my property.
I have had a lot of amplifiers in the past, from solid state to tube amps.
Currently I'm running a OMpower 2000+ amplifier. My normal process is that I
have 2 memories set on the K-pod, one is that it puts the radio into tune
mode at 8 watts out. This 8w output tunes the HF auto with low power until
it gets a good match which is very quick. During this 8w tune I have the
amplifier in stand-by mode, and all set to tune it next. After the 8w tune,
I have the same button set up to "HOLD" the button for a 30w tune in which
then I tune the amplifier which is pretty much ready to go off of a list
that I compiled, just basically a touch up is all that is needed. The radio
stays at 30w after that tune and I'm ready to go... My question is this. Is
there an option with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep
hitting stand-by on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto,
can I set up a K-pod button to do this, or a button on the K3S? So basically
does the K3S talk to the buttons on the KPA1500 so that I could create a
stand-by button on the K-pod...I'm right on the fence on a purchase and this
feature would really be of importance to me...

Jay KB8O
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[Elecraft] KX2/KX3 operating tip: A/B testing of two antennas without retuning the ATU

[Wayne Burdick]

Sometimes you’ll have two antennas available for your KX2 or KX3, for example 
different whips (my situation the other day) or a whip and a wire, etc. In both 
cases you might be using the internal ATU.

Q: Do you need to retune the ATU each time you swap antennas?

A: No. Both rigs have a menu entry added last year called “ATU DATA” (SET 1 and 
SET 2). If you select SET 1 for one antenna and SET 2 for the other, tuning up 
the ATU on each separately, you’ll then be able to recall the appropriate ATU 
settings using this menu entry. This can be done very quickly using the 
programmable switch feature. On the KX3, assign MENU:ATU DATA to either PF1 or 
PF2. On the KX2, there’s only one PFn switch but this gives you access to four 
programmable functions.

Further information on ATU DATA sets, from the firmware release notes:

* TWO ATU DATA SETS:  The KX2/KX3 will now store two full sets of per-band data 
for the internal ATU (KXAT2 or KXAT3). Use the ATU DATA menu entry to select 
which set to use. Typically SET 1 is used at a home location, and SET 2 for 
field operation. They can also be used in cases where more than one antenna is 
available for a given band. (Note: The ATU DATA menu entry has no effect on 
KXAT100 ATU data, which is already stored separately for each of the KXPA100 
amplifier’s antenna jacks. The KX2/KX3 can remotely switch KXPA100 antennas 
using the radio’s ANT.X SW menu entry.)

If you need to A/B test antennas often during operation, you’ll need an 
external manual switch of some kind. Flip the switch, then swap the ATU DATA 
set at the rig.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[dick]

Hi, Jay!

The KPA1500 bypasses the power amplifier during ATU TUNE.

Your K3S can communicate its current VFO frequency to the KPA1500 via the
ACC cable.  The KPA1500 will then change the ATU based on frequency, without
transmission.

If you have several antennas, as I do, I've done the tuning on each antenna
about every 20 kHz across the band in what we've called an ATU "training
session".

The KPA1500 retains ATU settings for each of these antennas for each "band
segment".  Then when you QSY to that frequency and transmit, the ATU
evaluates SWR, if it's above an SWR threshold (that you set), then the ATU
switches the PA to bypass, runs through the available ATU settings, and
picks the best one, then restores the PA to full power.  Depending on how
many antennas you've tuned for, this takes small tens of milliseconds, about
15 msec per ATU setting that needs to be evaluated.This behavior is
turned on with a configuration choice, "ATU HiSWR RETUNE".

After the training session, I tune across the band and change antennas as I
wish, and the pre-tuned ATU settings are determined in a few tens of
milliseconds.  I don't press any buttons to cause ATU tuning, once I've
asked the KPA1500 to memorize the ATU settings for my set of antennas.  The
KPA1500's amplifier is bypassed when it needs to be for ATU tuning.  We
can't hot-switch the ATU relays at full amplifier power. ATU tuning is done
at exciter power, usually around 20-50 watts, although 100W isn't too much
for the relays.

If I get to a new frequency that I've never tuned for, I have to press the
KPA1500 ATU TUNE button.  

I have a keying cable connected between the KPA1500 and K3 "straight key"
input that allows the KPA1500 to key the K3S when it needs carrier to tune
the ATU.  We're working on a signal between KPA1500 and K3S on the ACC
connector that will hopefully remove the need for that extra keying cable.

If this is as clear as mud, send me another note...

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Jason Pecora
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 14:55
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

Group good evening. I have a certain style of operation and a question about
the KPA1500 I would like to ask in the group. My normal operation is the K3S
into a Palstar HF Auto that tunes several antennas on my property.
I have had a lot of amplifiers in the past, from solid state to tube amps.
Currently I'm running a OMpower 2000+ amplifier. My normal process is that I
have 2 memories set on the K-pod, one is that it puts the radio into tune
mode at 8 watts out. This 8w output tunes the HF auto with low power until
it gets a good match which is very quick. During this 8w tune I have the
amplifier in stand-by mode, and all set to tune it next. After the 8w tune,
I have the same button set up to "HOLD" the button for a 30w tune in which
then I tune the amplifier which is pretty much ready to go off of a list
that I compiled, just basically a touch up is all that is needed. The radio
stays at 30w after that tune and I'm ready to go... My question is this. Is
there an option with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep
hitting stand-by on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto,
can I set up a K-pod button to do this, or a button on the K3S? So basically
does the K3S talk to the buttons on the KPA1500 so that I could create a
stand-by button on the K-pod...I'm right on the fence on a purchase and this
feature would really be of importance to me...

Jay KB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[Don Butler]

Jason, the short answer is that when the KPA1500 and K3S (or K3) are
connected via the KPAK3AUX cable and your K3S config menu is set to "power
per band" the K3S will memorize two separate power settings per band .. one
which kicks in when the amp is set to "STBY" and the other when and the mode
switch is changed to "OPER"

Don, N5LZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jason Pecora
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 3:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

Group good evening. I have a certain style of operation and a question about
the KPA1500 I would like to ask in the group. My normal operation is the K3S
into a Palstar HF Auto that tunes several antennas on my property.
I have had a lot of amplifiers in the past, from solid state to tube amps.
Currently I'm running a OMpower 2000+ amplifier. My normal process is that I
have 2 memories set on the K-pod, one is that it puts the radio into tune
mode at 8 watts out. This 8w output tunes the HF auto with low power until
it gets a good match which is very quick. During this 8w tune I have the
amplifier in stand-by mode, and all set to tune it next. After the 8w tune,
I have the same button set up to "HOLD" the button for a 30w tune in which
then I tune the amplifier which is pretty much ready to go off of a list
that I compiled, just basically a touch up is all that is needed. The radio
stays at 30w after that tune and I'm ready to go... My question is this. Is
there an option with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep
hitting stand-by on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the HF-Auto,
can I set up a K-pod button to do this, or a button on the K3S? So basically
does the K3S talk to the buttons on the KPA1500 so that I could create a
stand-by button on the K-pod...I'm right on the fence on a purchase and this
feature would really be of importance to me...

Jay KB8O
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 questions...

[Jason Pecora]

Group good evening. I have a certain style of operation and a question
about the KPA1500 I would like to ask in the group. My normal operation is
the K3S into a Palstar HF Auto that tunes several antennas on my property.
I have had a lot of amplifiers in the past, from solid state to tube amps.
Currently I'm running a OMpower 2000+ amplifier. My normal process is that
I have 2 memories set on the K-pod, one is that it puts the radio into tune
mode at 8 watts out. This 8w output tunes the HF auto with low power until
it gets a good match which is very quick. During this 8w tune I have the
amplifier in stand-by mode, and all set to tune it next. After the 8w tune,
I have the same button set up to "HOLD" the button for a 30w tune in which
then I tune the amplifier which is pretty much ready to go off of a list
that I compiled, just basically a touch up is all that is needed. The radio
stays at 30w after that tune and I'm ready to go... My question is this. Is
there an option with the KPA1500 that I don't have to reach over and keep
hitting stand-by on the amplifier every time I need to touch up the
HF-Auto, can I set up a K-pod button to do this, or a button on the K3S? So
basically does the K3S talk to the buttons on the KPA1500 so that I could
create a stand-by button on the K-pod...I'm right on the fence on a
purchase and this feature would really be of importance to me...

Jay KB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?

[Mark Goldberg]

IPC-610 is really an acceptance criteria, what it should look like after it
is done. A company or industry can choose to use this or not. Some think it
has caused companies to build in lower cost countries that don't actually
follow it, but claim to. One of the major standards to build to is
J-STD-001. I have and use that too, but IPC-610 has more info about what it
should look like after it is done.

So, IPC-610 and J-STD-001 are what I am familiar with, so I use them and
other referenced standards. They have three classes. Generally the highest
Class 3 is considered for high performance or critical systems. If I was an
automotive company, that is what I would use. For commercial products,
lower Class 2 or even the lowest Class 1 might be OK. My work probably
meets Class 1 most of the time.

Some manufacturers have done things not in the specs for their own reasons,
such as phone makers using low silver content lead free solder because it
works well in shock (dropped phones) but not so much in vibration that may
be found in aircraft or autos.

The specs may be used for anything if you wish. NASA has had their own
specs (NASA-STD-8739.3, superseded by J-STS-001-FS which I have never seen
as I never worked on space products) and other manufacturer's may have
their own specs too. I just don't know who actually uses them.

You can Google these various standards and find some old versions for free,
but most of the latest ones will cost you. They are long and boring, but I
generally search for what I want to do and read that section. I used to
work with some of the fine people who wrote the standards to point out the
right sections to me. These standards are updated after thousands of hours
of testing and experimentation. I was also able to watch some very skilled
people solder. My skills pale in comparison, but I try.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sun, Mar 25, 2018 at 3:22 PM, N2TK, Tony  wrote:

> Mark,
> Does IPC-610 also cover automotive products?
> N2TK, Tony
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark Goldberg
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 6:20 PM
> To: Elecraft Mailing List 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques:
> trim
> before or after soldering?
>
> For commercial products, there is IPC-610. That is 400+ pages of
> descriptions of how to determine acceptability of and  build electronic
> assemblies. It has very clear explanations and lots of pictures and
> diagrams
> of right and wrong ways to do things.
>
> Unfortunately, you may have to pay to get a copy. There are also a whole
> series of more specific specification documents for certain operations, but
> IPC-610 will have most of what you need to know. At least, it is what I
> look
> at first.
>
> Section 7.3.5.9 allows trimming after soldering if the trimming does not
> damage the solder. For certain classes of products, a visual inspection at
> 10X is required. Reflowing after cutting is also acceptable instead of
> inspection. I believe there are special trimmers that minimize shock during
> the trimming process.
>
> I attempt to follow IPC-610, although my skills may not be fully up to the
> task. At least I know where I fall short.
>
> 73,
>
> Mark
> W7MLG
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 10:28 AM, Mark Petrovic 
> wrote:
>
> > While reading through my new K2 kit's control board assembly
> > instructions, I see that some builders prefer to trim the resistor and
> > capacitor leads before soldering.  I'm intrigued by this, and wonder
> > if someone who uses this technique can share their experiences. Do you
> > the solder the component from the top of the board or bottom?  How do
> > you keep the component in place during soldering?  I am assuming the
> > value of this technique is in the resulting lower profile of the
> components on the backside of the board.
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Mark
> > AE6RT
> >
> > --
> > Mark
> > __
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> >
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Help: 

Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation

[kevinr]

If Günter Grass and Thomas Pynchon had worked together the boy in The 
Tin Drum could have been a V2 pilot.


   73,

  Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 03/26/2018 11:46 AM, a45wg wrote:

So you are all “Rocket Scientists” !!

That explains a lot….

Keep up the V interesting posts


73s

Tim

Du3/M0FGC


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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation

[a45wg]

So you are all “Rocket Scientists” !!

That explains a lot….

Keep up the V interesting posts 


73s 

Tim

Du3/M0FGC

> On Mar 26, 2018, at 10:04 PM, Tom Doligalski  wrote:
> 
> https://www.techbriefs.com 
> 
> 73, Tom W4KX
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 26, 2018, at 1:24 PM, n0...@juno.com  wrote:
>> 
>> Back in the early 80's, a friend of mine had a job-related
>> subscription to "NASA Tech Briefs" (or something like that title).
>> I never read the article myself, but my friend was very good at
>> relaying details.
>> 
>> One of the subjects covered was soldering and the "shock wave" problem.
>> IIRC, the leads could be trimmed with a scissor-like tool.  
>> 
>> I would think the nippers that someone mentioned would be OK
>> to use because of the way the cutting edge is designed.  
>> 
>> I tried to find the Tech Briefs on the web, but no luck.  If
>> anyone has access to those publications I would sure
>> like to read the article.  Again, that was back in the early
>> 80's or maybe late 70's.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Charlie, N0TT
>> 
>>> Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted
>> the soldered connection left undisturbed.
>> 
>>> If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get
>> a verbal warning that first time and a written warning if >it ever
>> happened again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do
>> that.
>> 
>>> So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires
>> before doing the final soldering.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation

[Tom Doligalski]

https://www.techbriefs.com

73, Tom W4KX

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 26, 2018, at 1:24 PM, n0...@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Back in the early 80's, a friend of mine had a job-related
> subscription to "NASA Tech Briefs" (or something like that title).
> I never read the article myself, but my friend was very good at
> relaying details.
> 
> One of the subjects covered was soldering and the "shock wave" problem.
> IIRC, the leads could be trimmed with a scissor-like tool.  
> 
> I would think the nippers that someone mentioned would be OK
> to use because of the way the cutting edge is designed.  
> 
> I tried to find the Tech Briefs on the web, but no luck.  If
> anyone has access to those publications I would sure
> like to read the article.  Again, that was back in the early
> 80's or maybe late 70's.
> 
> 73,
> Charlie, N0TT
> 
>> Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted
> the soldered connection left undisturbed.
> 
>> If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get
> a verbal warning that first time and a written warning if >it ever
> happened again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do
> that.
> 
>> So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires
> before doing the final soldering.
> __
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[Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation

[n0tt1]

Back in the early 80's, a friend of mine had a job-related
subscription to "NASA Tech Briefs" (or something like that title).
I never read the article myself, but my friend was very good at
relaying details.

One of the subjects covered was soldering and the "shock wave" problem.
IIRC, the leads could be trimmed with a scissor-like tool.  

I would think the nippers that someone mentioned would be OK
to use because of the way the cutting edge is designed.  

I tried to find the Tech Briefs on the web, but no luck.  If
anyone has access to those publications I would sure
like to read the article.  Again, that was back in the early
80's or maybe late 70's.

73,
Charlie, N0TT

>Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted
the soldered connection left undisturbed.

>If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get
a verbal warning that first time and a written warning if >it ever
happened again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do
that.

>So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires
before doing the final soldering.
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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio

[Lyle Johnson]

When installing the DSP board,it is very easy to mis-align the 5-pin 
connector between the front panel board and the DSP board. This 
connector carries mic audio from the front panel microphone jack to the DSP.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio

[John Klewer]

*What do you mean by “voice isn’t working”? That sounds like a problem for
your doctor.*
A little kindness and grace would go a long way towards keeping the
reflector civil.

Just sayin'

John

On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 9:30 AM, Nr4c  wrote:

> What do you mean by “voice isn’t working”?
>
> That sounds like a problem for your doctor.
>
> If you mean no TX monitor you may need to turn u the monitor volume.
>
> Did you select the proper mic input jack?  What mic, does it need Bias?
>
> Have you consulted the manual?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> > On Mar 26, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Mark Bayern  wrote:
> >
> > 'voice not working'
> >
> > Ok ... some more questions to help those of us on this list figure out
> > what you're trying to convey.
> >
> > First I'll assume we are talking about a K3 or K3s. My next assumption
> > is that we are talking about a receiver problem and not a transmitter
> > issue. If either of those are incorrect, let me know.
> >
> > Does either receiver work? Can you hear any band noise? CW? anything?
> > (Is the speaker plugged in properly? Does a headset or pair of
> > earphones work?)
> >
> >
> > Mark  AD5SS
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:27 AM, Robert  wrote:
> >> Sorry, I think I am not specific enough.
> >>
> >> It's the voice what is not working, since I installed the subreceiver.
> >>
> >> As said, I have not changed the settings and tested it with the headset,
> >> but also the hand microphone.
> >>
> >> After saving a configuration backup, I did a factory reset, that didn't
> >> solve, even not, when I restored the backup file.
> >>
> >> So I wonder now, why isn't the voice working or did I miss something,
> >> that I have forgotten.
> >>
> >> PD7RB Robert
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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio

[Bill Frantz]

From Robert's original report:

  Radio: K3
  He says, "All normal settings are oke, but still no audio, 
even not with a
hand microphone.", so I think we can assume he has a problem 
with the microphone.


He describes his settings as:

  TX is working normal.

= Mic sel : FP.H - high
= Mic level : 20
= CMP level : 20

Things to check:

Is MIC BIAS set correctly (ON for an Elecraft mic)?

Does a microphone plugged into the rear panel jack produce audio?

It is possible there is a bad connection from installing the 
second receiver, possibly aligning the multi-pin connectors.


These are the things I can immediately think of.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/26/18 at 8:52 AM, m...@mlb.net (Mark Bayern) wrote:


'voice not working'

Ok ... some more questions to help those of us on this list figure out
what you're trying to convey.

First I'll assume we are talking about a K3 or K3s. My next assumption
is that we are talking about a receiver problem and not a transmitter
issue. If either of those are incorrect, let me know.

Does either receiver work? Can you hear any band noise? CW? anything?
(Is the speaker plugged in properly? Does a headset or pair of
earphones work?)


Mark  AD5SS



On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:27 AM, Robert  wrote:

Sorry, I think I am not specific enough.

It's the voice what is not working, since I installed the subreceiver.

As said, I have not changed the settings and tested it with the headset,
but also the hand microphone.

After saving a configuration backup, I did a factory reset, that didn't
solve, even not, when I restored the backup file.

So I wonder now, why isn't the voice working or did I miss something,
that I have forgotten.

PD7RB Robert

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---
Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the

www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio

[Nr4c]

What do you mean by “voice isn’t working”?

That sounds like a problem for your doctor. 

If you mean no TX monitor you may need to turn u the monitor volume. 

Did you select the proper mic input jack?  What mic, does it need Bias?

Have you consulted the manual?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 26, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Mark Bayern  wrote:
> 
> 'voice not working'
> 
> Ok ... some more questions to help those of us on this list figure out
> what you're trying to convey.
> 
> First I'll assume we are talking about a K3 or K3s. My next assumption
> is that we are talking about a receiver problem and not a transmitter
> issue. If either of those are incorrect, let me know.
> 
> Does either receiver work? Can you hear any band noise? CW? anything?
> (Is the speaker plugged in properly? Does a headset or pair of
> earphones work?)
> 
> 
> Mark  AD5SS
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:27 AM, Robert  wrote:
>> Sorry, I think I am not specific enough.
>> 
>> It's the voice what is not working, since I installed the subreceiver.
>> 
>> As said, I have not changed the settings and tested it with the headset,
>> but also the hand microphone.
>> 
>> After saving a configuration backup, I did a factory reset, that didn't
>> solve, even not, when I restored the backup file.
>> 
>> So I wonder now, why isn't the voice working or did I miss something,
>> that I have forgotten.
>> 
>> PD7RB Robert
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Re: [Elecraft] No Audio

[Mark Bayern]

'voice not working'

Ok ... some more questions to help those of us on this list figure out
what you're trying to convey.

First I'll assume we are talking about a K3 or K3s. My next assumption
is that we are talking about a receiver problem and not a transmitter
issue. If either of those are incorrect, let me know.

Does either receiver work? Can you hear any band noise? CW? anything?
(Is the speaker plugged in properly? Does a headset or pair of
earphones work?)


Mark  AD5SS



On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:27 AM, Robert  wrote:
> Sorry, I think I am not specific enough.
>
> It's the voice what is not working, since I installed the subreceiver.
>
> As said, I have not changed the settings and tested it with the headset,
> but also the hand microphone.
>
> After saving a configuration backup, I did a factory reset, that didn't
> solve, even not, when I restored the backup file.
>
> So I wonder now, why isn't the voice working or did I miss something,
> that I have forgotten.
>
> PD7RB Robert
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[Elecraft] No Audio

[Robert]

Sorry, I think I am not specific enough.

It's the voice what is not working, since I installed the subreceiver.

As said, I have not changed the settings and tested it with the headset,
but also the hand microphone.

After saving a configuration backup, I did a factory reset, that didn't
solve, even not, when I restored the backup file.

So I wonder now, why isn't the voice working or did I miss something,
that I have forgotten.

PD7RB Robert
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