Re: [Elecraft] Old topic RE: CM500

[Buck]

Look an Amazon for "headphone ear covers," or "headphone ear pads."

Buck, K4IA
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
License and Operating Manuals

On 2/14/2024 3:32 PM, Jim Leder wrote:

I have two Yamaha CM500 headsets that I really like. However, both are 
suffering from the ear pad deterioration problem. A long time back I saw 
several postings suggesting replacement ear pads AND the foam inside cover. 
Naturally now I can't find them. I would like to rebuild at least one of them 
via the 'goop' (glue) method. Any recommendations for both the ear pad AND the 
foam inside cover?

Thanks,

Jim Leder ... K8CXM
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[Elecraft] K3s and P3 Sale Price Reduced

[Buck K4IA]

K3S # 114** (Jan 2018)
100W ATU 2nd RX DVR MH4 Mic
Filters Main RX 250, 400, 1.0, 1.8, 2.7
Filter 2nd RX 2.7
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$3100 reduced to $3000

P3 #1755
VGA board and cables
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$700

Prefer to sell together $3,600  Plus shipping USA only ($100?)

--
Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K3S and P3 for sale

[Buck K4IA]

My K4 is now firmly affixed to the operating position and it is time to 
sell the second best radio I have ever owned.  Pics on request.


K3S # 114** (Jan 2018)
100W ATU
2nd RX
DVR MH4
Mic
Filters Main RX 250, 400, 1.0, 1.8, 2.7
Filter 2nd RX 2.7
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$3100

P3 #1755
VGA board and cables
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$700

Together $3,600 Plus shipping USA only ($100?)

--
Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 recommendation - wait for HD or no?

[Buck]

I haven't yet encountered a situation where I said, "Gee, I really wish 
I had that HD front end."  Not to say it won't happen but I don't have 
any big gun neighbors.


Buck, K4IA
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
License and Operating Manuals

On 1/18/2023 3:39 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/18/2023 11:53 AM, Joseph M. Durnal wrote:
I have my sights set on a K4D, but wondering if I should be 
considering the

HD version.


I bought a K4D. The HD is a module upgrade, not yet available.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale K3/100

[Buck K4IA]

You got a heck of a deal.  I've seen those P3/VGAs go for $800 or more.

Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 1/16/2023 3:40 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/16/2023 7:14 AM, Marc via Elecraft wrote:
I rarely do not post a price when selling, but I am not sure what this is worth now. 



I recently bought an early serial number K3 and P3/SVGA from a member 
of our local contesting club for $2K. It had the second RX, both were 
loaded with 2-3 filters, and the P3 had the wattmeter.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] RFIth

[Buck K4IA]

The impedance increases with the square of the turns.  2 turns = 4 times 
the impedance.  It would take 4 chokes in series to equal one choke with 
2 turns.  A "turn" is one pass through the middle.  More turns is better 
until we get to very large chokes where the inter-coil capacitance 
lowers the impedance.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/20/2021 9:49 PM, David Herring wrote:

Pete,

Yes. You either have to have lots of them, or you need to get bigger ones and 
run multiple turns through them. Also get the right “mix” for the frequency 
range in question. Type 31 is pretty good for HF.

Not an expert, but studiedhttp://k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf>,http://k9yc.com/RXChokesTransformers.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/RXChokesTransformers.pdf>,http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf>  and others athttp://k9yc.com/publish.htm  
<http://k9yc.com/publish.htm>.  There is a wealth of information there, available for free.
  
73,

Dave - N5DCH





On Dec 20, 2021, at 7:21 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:

Others can speak more authoritatively about this, but I thought those clamp-on 
cores, where they go right on the existing run of coax, offered too little 
inductance to be of much use below VHF.  Experts?

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the new Reverse Beacon Network
web server at <http://beta.reversebeacon.net  <http://beta.reversebeacon.net/>>.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 12/20/2021 8:02 PM, Bob McGraw wrote:

For those using the clamp-on ferrite devices, when installing them, be sure 
part A closes completely and solidly contacts part B. Otherwise, there is no 
flux path and the device is ineffective. If it is closed and loose on the 
cable, then that's good.   If it is closed or difficult to close, it isn't 
large enough for the cable and will likely not be effective.   Any gap between 
the halves renders it worthless for the application.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/20/2021 6:18 PM,elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net  wrote:

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2021 08:34:24 -0800
From: Dave
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RFI
Message-ID:<8cdb19ae-b111-5a6c-3f2a-d29efdd25...@nk7z.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Hi,

Purchase some FT240-31 ferrite cores,
(https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1912768.pdf), and wind at least 5
turns of each cable going to, or from, the computer through the ferrite.

I have several of these, and they stopped ALL of my RFI issues with my
computer, and with a weather station I have as well.

Shop around looking for the best price, some folks are asking 10 bucks
for one of these, others are asking 5 bucks...  I use Newark, and
Digikey as my goto places.

Also look to K9YC's site, for more information on how to make the chokes...

http://k9yc.com/2018Cookbook.pdf

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

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Re: [Elecraft] RFI

[Buck K4IA]

Bond the computer case and radio with strap.  That provides an alternate 
path for RF reducing the amount on the USB cable.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/19/2021 7:24 PM, David F. Reed wrote:


Due to some HOA C, I am confined to attic and gutter antennas for 
the time being.


I am getting a bit of RFI on occasion into my PC; it manifests itself 
mainly by apparently disconnecting the com port from Commander.  When 
this happens, I can restore functionality by selecting a different com 
port, and then re-selecting the original correct com port.


I am grounded to a 10' ground rod about 8 ft. from the station via 2" 
copper strap. I did install ferrite beads on the USB cables at the 
back of the PC as well as on the power cord, and this has reduced the 
frequency of occurrence, but I would like to eliminate it altogether.


Any other ideas and suggestions would be most appreciated!

Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

[Buck K4IA]

My bet is you have a rogue tech who couldn't find the problem and 
decided to blame you.  He greatly exceeded his authority and as soon as 
a higher-up hears what happened, this will be reversed.  Besides, since 
we know you aren't the problem, the problem is still there and his 
"solution" will be proven wrong.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 10/21/2021 9:35 AM, Julia Tuttle wrote:

But remember, you're required to use the lowest power level feasible...

...so time to try for some really challenging DX, and keep your logs!

Seriously though, did you find out if they're actually kicking you off or
if this was just a grumpy local tech misguidedly trying to fix a problem by
threatening you?

73,

Julie

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021, 09:27 Al Lorona  wrote:


Jim beat me to it. I was also going to urge you to transmit as much as
possible on 20 meters with the highest power you can. The idea is to become
a hair ball that Xfinity can't swallow nor can't cough back up.

If anybody comes up to you to complain that you're still causing outages,
use the same twisted logic that Xfinity used and tell them, "That's
impossible. It couldn't be me because Xfinity has already disconnected me."

Al  W6LX/4




and 3) operate at you highest practical power
level as often as possible.
73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K4

[Buck]

If you don't travel first class, your kids will.

Get the K4 (and the K5) and when your key goes silent the kids can sell it.

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/17/2021 1:23 AM, BRUCE WW8II wrote:

Give it to your kids

WW8II

On Mon, Aug 16, 2021 at 5:40 PM Ken Roberson via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:



I have 4 kids, I could give each another $1500.00 when I dieor I could buy

A new K4 , Let’s see which should I do?
Ken K5DNL

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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature or Warmth of KPA500 when "Off" ?

[Buck]

Another interesting side note - the 12 volt rail in the K3 is "ON" all 
the time, even when the K3 is turned off.  I found that out when one of 
the finals developed a partial short and the radio was drawing 2 amps 
when turned "OFF."


If you are not using equipment, find a way to disconnect the power or 
turn off the power supply.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/1/2021 11:54 AM, Hal Massey wrote:

Maybe so. But this is an old design.


On Jul 1, 2021, at 04:50, David Woolley  wrote:

I don't think this design would be acceptable in modern consumer equipment, at 
least not in Europe. Typically they would have an auxiliary power supply for 
the microcontroller, to reduce power consumption to well under 1 watt, and 
maintain a reasonably good power factor, when in a soft power off state.

Current and voltage figures quoted elsewhere in the thread suggest over 10 
watts and an unknown number of VA.  There was a lot of campaigning to hard 
power off devices at a time when standby powers were more like 5 watts.

On 01/07/2021 00:09, Jack Brindle wrote:


It is powered by the 5V linear regulator, which is providing the heat you feel, 
along with the +12V and -12V regulators (also linear). I seem to recall that 
the input to the regulator is something like +15 or +18V, which gets regulated 
down to the three supplies that are used for running the microcontroller the 
RS-232 interfaces and the LCD. The LCD is disabled when front-power is off.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: High school drafting class

[Buck]

In those days, there was no such thing as ADHD.  You got whacked on the 
back of the head until you paid attention.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/27/2021 6:22 PM, n0...@juno.com wrote:

OK, so I gotta chime in and tell this brief story
Circa 1958, HS mechanical drawing class.  Some kid
was screwing off.  Distruptive!  Mr Gersic, went back to the kid,
picked him up off his stool by the seat of his pants/belt with one hand,
the other
on his shoulder, and carried him out door.  Never saw the kid in class
again!!  :D)

Charlie, N0TT

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Re: [Elecraft] Speaker upgrade

[Buck]

If you don't care for amplified speakers, the Pyle 3" Mini Cubes are 
excellent.  Less than $30 a pair online.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/23/2021 7:23 PM, Jim Sheldon wrote:

Don, you’re right on about those West Mountain Com Speakers.  I’ve had a pair 
on my K3S since day one and I wouldn’t trade them for anything.

My wife got me a second pair and I use them with my KX2 when I’m operating on 
my back deck.  Sure makes the KX2’s receiver sound super good.

Jim, W0EB

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 23, 2021, at 6:13 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Since the K3 has stereo output, I suggest you look at the West Mountain Radio 
ComSpeakers.  They do a good job.
My K3 had 2 Radio Shack mini speakers on it, and the KX3 uses the ComSpeakers.  
Great in all respects.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/23/2021 6:01 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:
Regardless of radio, my go to is the black Motorola mobile speakers (~5" 
square, with mounts).  Already shaped for communications audio (chopped lows, peaked 
mids and some highs) by design, they sound awesome on the K3 *once you find a 
matching output pair* (they can vary in output by several dB).  Estate sales, swap 
meets and radio shop closures are prime spots to find them; often $10 each (oh heck 
yeah, snag it and bag it!).

Also, if you find them, the old Radio Shack speaker cubes (about 2" cubed) have 
very clear communication audio and work great in a mobile environment.  Before RS 
went out of business the price was jacked up to about $60 (from $10) so swap meet 
prices may vary.

I (almost) never use any internal speaker since they are not usually more than 
a basic add on, or have to be cranked up so much to be useful that they don't 
last long (and are mono with dual receivers).

You might check to see what Elecraft offers for speakers to match your radio 
esthetics should your budget allow it.

73,
Rick NK7I



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Re: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Buck]

I don't know what the correct signals are.  Haven't been able to find 
that data


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/19/2021 5:49 PM, Hal Massey wrote:

Hi Buck,

I appreciate the continuity tests you did on your cable. Can you functionally 
test the cable? With the cable connected to the 7610 are the correct signals at 
the cable outputs?

Regards
-Hal / WB6NNR


On Apr 19, 2021, at 1:06 PM, Buck  wrote:

Auto-sense works.  I just don't understand why Icom/Elecraft would even suggest 
hooking up the molex connector to the KAT500 if it doesn't do anything.  It is 
a waste of time.

I got the W2GNY plug to fool the 7610 into transmitting as 10 signal and it 
works.  I guess I will stick with that.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/19/2021 2:31 PM, Ken Winterling wrote:

Buck,
I have had the IC-7610 and KAT500/KPA500 for almost three years and they are a very nice 
pair (or trio..). The IC-7610 doesn't "control" the KAT500 per se. Changing 
bands/frequencies on the IC-7610 doesn't cause any response from the KAT500. Only when 
the IC-7610 transmits does the tuner detect (sense) the RF and then adjust the capacitors 
and inductors to match to the current antenna. An Elecraft transceiver, OTOH, does 
communicate with the KAT500 (and KPA500) and changes bands/frequencies/antenna ports as 
the bands and frequencies are changed.
The KPA500 responds the same way and changes bands by sensing transmit RF. You can build 
a "band data" cable to interface the IC-7620 to the KP500 and it will, with 
restrictions, follow the band selected by the IC-7610. The restriction is that Icom's 
band data voltages do not support the WARC bands. As a result, both 24 mHz and 28 mHz 
select 28mHz; both 18 mHz and 21 mHz select 21mHz. So, for all bands except WARC, the 
KPA500 will follow band selections made on the IC-7610 (or almost any other Icom such as 
the IC-7300, etc.).
I can send you a diagram of the band data cable if you would like. It is only marginally 
useful and most ops of non Elecraft gear seem to just let the KPA500 (and KAT500) RF 
sense the transmitted RF to make necessary selections. Be sure to read the KAT500 manual 
section regarding "training" your tuner.
GL!
Ken
WA2LBI
On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 2:05 PM Buck mailto:radiok...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I made up the cable from the Molex to the TUNE on the KAT500 as
described and have checked continuity from end to end.  All OK.
I have the SEND from the 7610 connected to the PTT RLY on the KAT500.
When I change bands, nothing happens.  Is there another setting I need
to change in the 7610?
Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
On 4/19/2021 10:35 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
 > Buck -
 >
 > The KAT500 Rev D1 Manual, pages 13, 14 and 15 cover the Icom
connections.
 >
 > The "AH4" cable (the one you're describing) powers the KAT500 and
controls
 > the "Tune" function.  If yours isn't doing anything, the cable is
probably
 > defective.
 >
 > What else do you have connected?
 >
 > 73
 > Lyn, W0LEN
 >
 >
 > -Original Message-
 > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>
     > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>] On Behalf Of Buck
 > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:42 AM
 > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 > Subject: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610
 >
 > Anyone who has succeeded, I could use some help.  The connection from
 > the 7610 molex antenna tuner jack to the "Icom in" jack on the
KSAT500
 > doesn't do anything.
 >
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___

Re: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Buck]

Auto-sense works.  I just don't understand why Icom/Elecraft would even 
suggest hooking up the molex connector to the KAT500 if it doesn't do 
anything.  It is a waste of time.


I got the W2GNY plug to fool the 7610 into transmitting as 10 signal and 
it works.  I guess I will stick with that.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/19/2021 2:31 PM, Ken Winterling wrote:

Buck,

I have had the IC-7610 and KAT500/KPA500 for almost three years and they 
are a very nice pair (or trio..). The IC-7610 doesn't "control" the 
KAT500 per se. Changing bands/frequencies on the IC-7610 doesn't cause 
any response from the KAT500. Only when the IC-7610 transmits does the 
tuner detect (sense) the RF and then adjust the capacitors and inductors 
to match to the current antenna. An Elecraft transceiver, OTOH, does 
communicate with the KAT500 (and KPA500) and changes 
bands/frequencies/antenna ports as the bands and frequencies are changed.


The KPA500 responds the same way and changes bands by sensing transmit 
RF. You can build a "band data" cable to interface the IC-7620 to the 
KP500 and it will, with restrictions, follow the band selected by the 
IC-7610. The restriction is that Icom's band data voltages do not 
support the WARC bands. As a result, both 24 mHz and 28 mHz select 
28mHz; both 18 mHz and 21 mHz select 21mHz. So, for all bands except 
WARC, the KPA500 will follow band selections made on the IC-7610 (or 
almost any other Icom such as the IC-7300, etc.).


I can send you a diagram of the band data cable if you would like. It is 
only marginally useful and most ops of non Elecraft gear seem to just 
let the KPA500 (and KAT500) RF sense the transmitted RF to make 
necessary selections. Be sure to read the KAT500 manual section 
regarding "training" your tuner.


GL!

Ken
WA2LBI




On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 2:05 PM Buck <mailto:radiok...@gmail.com>> wrote:


I made up the cable from the Molex to the TUNE on the KAT500 as
described and have checked continuity from end to end.  All OK.

I have the SEND from the 7610 connected to the PTT RLY on the KAT500.

When I change bands, nothing happens.  Is there another setting I need
to change in the 7610?

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/19/2021 10:35 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
 > Buck -
 >
 > The KAT500 Rev D1 Manual, pages 13, 14 and 15 cover the Icom
connections.
 >
 > The "AH4" cable (the one you're describing) powers the KAT500 and
controls
 > the "Tune" function.  If yours isn't doing anything, the cable is
probably
 > defective.
 >
 > What else do you have connected?
 >
 > 73
 > Lyn, W0LEN
 >
 >
 > -Original Message-
 > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>
 > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>] On Behalf Of Buck
 > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:42 AM
 > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
 > Subject: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610
 >
 > Anyone who has succeeded, I could use some help.  The connection from
 > the 7610 molex antenna tuner jack to the "Icom in" jack on the
KSAT500
 > doesn't do anything.
 >
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Re: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Buck]

I made up the cable from the Molex to the TUNE on the KAT500 as 
described and have checked continuity from end to end.  All OK.


I have the SEND from the 7610 connected to the PTT RLY on the KAT500.

When I change bands, nothing happens.  Is there another setting I need 
to change in the 7610?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/19/2021 10:35 AM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Buck -

The KAT500 Rev D1 Manual, pages 13, 14 and 15 cover the Icom connections.

The "AH4" cable (the one you're describing) powers the KAT500 and controls
the "Tune" function.  If yours isn't doing anything, the cable is probably
defective.

What else do you have connected?

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Buck
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2021 7:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

Anyone who has succeeded, I could use some help.  The connection from
the 7610 molex antenna tuner jack to the "Icom in" jack on the KSAT500
doesn't do anything.


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[Elecraft] Controlling KAT500/KPA500 with Icom 7610

[Buck]

Anyone who has succeeded, I could use some help.  The connection from 
the 7610 molex antenna tuner jack to the "Icom in" jack on the KSAT500 
doesn't do anything.

--
k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Sudden loss of K3 RX sensitivity

[Buck]

I have had a similar loss of RX on my K3S.  It is cured by turning the 
RF control down and then back up.  I don't know what causes this and 
whether it is hardware or software related.  A twist of the knob is all 
it takes to fix so I live with it.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 2/23/2021 8:40 AM, Mike K8CN wrote:

Pete,

There was a similar report on the forum last year from Per-Tore, LA7NO. In
an extended email conversation we deduced his problems were caused by failed
PIN diodes in one of the T/R switches, which ultimately proved to be the
case.  His K3 also lost TX power, unlike your situation, so you may have
lost only the PIN diode in the RX path.  There were many other possible
causes suggested by others on the forum around that time (late July 2020) -
you might read that thread and try the simple fixes first (e.g., twist and
re-seat the TMP connectors) before delving into circuit/component failure
possibilities.  The old thread is here:

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-K3-problem-td7663573.html#a7663581

73,
Mike, K8CN




--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Fair price for a used KPA500?

[Buck]

As a general rule I use 80 - 85% of retail for a current production rig 
in excellent condition.  Elecraft gear would be on the high side.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/20/2020 9:42 AM, Jim Miller wrote:

I'm looking to buy a used KPA500 from a friend. What would be a fair price?

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Main Power - ON 24/7/365?

[Buck]

If you leave it "on," the power supply is energized.  A surge on the 
line could fry the unit.  It happened to me with a Yaesu Quadra.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 10/20/2020 12:16 AM, Jack W9JH wrote:

Is there any harm in leaving the KPA500 rear MAIN Power Switch ‘ON', 24/7/365? 
(not the front panel power button).

I have done that with my KPA500 at the home station with no problem, but 
wondered about doing it at the remote site? I can operate the front panel “ON” 
button and “OPER/STBY” switch remotely so the amp is not running full-time, 
just the internal power supply.

73,
Jack W9JH
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 IF signal 'OUT' for external application useage

[Buck]

As I recall, there is an HDMI output on the back of the K4.  You can 
choose to have it display the front panel, the panadapter or both on an 
external monitor.


You won't need to use I/Q to an LP-PAN.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 9/24/2020 2:51 PM, Brian wrote:


Looking at the recent (though long from complete) K4 guide, I don't see an IF 
OUT per se as I have in the accessory board in my K3 (or in fact the output I/Q 
 from the KX3 I can run directly into my sound card on the computer).   Does 
the XVTR IF OUT suffice for this?

The reason I ask is that eventually my LP-PAN is going to die - hopefully not 
soon but I have been using it for quite some time now. I use the IF  out from 
the K3 into the LP-PAN and then into NaP3.

Now I do realize there is a panadapter on the K4 - obviously - but I DO enjoy 
(in fact pretty much need) the large computer display for the pana/spectrum 
display and DO use the NaP3 software controls for K3 functions on my keyboard 
and mouse for tuning and such.
The display on the K4 is not the same thing I don't think. Even with some 
keyboard/mouse controls native to the K4 (?) the display size is a deterent to 
me as it exists.  Apologies to the company. I assume maybe there MIGHT be a 
video card OUT re. the K4 panadapter at some time, but that is a maybe.. and 
more money.

I won't be nearly the first to get a K4.. down the line probably as I have a 
K3S here and a K3 at the in-law's property. If I did get that 'last final rig' 
and it was  a K4 (Iikely as I don't have much in the shack since 2000 that was 
not Elecraft) I would, as an older fellow then.. want the larger visual display 
of the computer/IF out/NaP3 sort of solution.

So, do I get some IF out I can use?
tnx
Brian VE3VAW

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Re: [Elecraft] "Introduction to the Elecraft K4" manual now available

[Buck]

First glance, it is really well done.  I love the yellow arrows and hate 
it when a manual says push the X button but you have no idea where the X 
button is.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 9/24/2020 1:49 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

The first draft of "Introduction to the Elecraft K4" is now available, at:

   
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K4/Manuals%20Downloads/Introduction%20to%20the%20Elecraft%20K4,%20rev.%20A-7.pdf

This is a 40-page, full-color manual with dozens of illustrations highlighting the 
K4's user interface and features. The document's 8.5 x 14" form factor is 
uniquely suited to the K4, allowing illustrations to be virtually the same size as 
the front panel. A printed, spiral-bound copy of this manual will be included with 
the K4.

I'd like to thank those who volunteered to review this and other K4 
documentation, including our intrepid field testers. Additional input is always 
welcome. We'll be updating these documents as K4 software evolves.

73,
Wayne
N6KR





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Re: [Elecraft] Rear Mike Jack Question

[Buck]

I would suspect a Windoze update scrambled your sound assignments.  Go 
back and check all your settings.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/23/2020 11:56 AM, N4ZR wrote:
Recently, I began trying to use the rear microphone jack on my K3 with 
my Yamaha boom mike, instead of using a stand-alone USB sound card and 
feeding the signal to the LIN IN jack.  This worked fine for a couple of 
weeks, but today when I tried it, I got very loud white noise driving my 
radio and amp essentially to full scale. I have MIC SEL set to RPH BIAS, 
which has worked in the past. Any MIC gain setting over 7 drives the amp 
to full output.  When I pull the mike plug out of the jack, the problem 
goes away.


Have I inadvertently messed up another setting, or perhaps a failure in 
the mike?



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Re: [Elecraft] K-4 and Expo

[Buck]

I didn't hear anything about delivery in the presentation.

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/9/2020 9:43 AM, Martin Sole wrote:

First ones end of August. Apparently

Sent from my iPhone


On 9 Aug 2020, at 16:37, Art Suberbielle  wrote:

Did Elecraft answer the big question-When will they start shipping the K-4?

I am registered for the Expo but unable to get any further than Elecraft
booth. Clocking on videos brings me to YouTube and the latest promo video.
But no mention there of the big question.

73,
Art KZ5D
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 training

[Buck]

Wayne, you think of everything.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/7/2020 2:10 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi Bill,

Yes, the built-in Info System (accessed by tapping the "?" button) is a unique 
feature of the K4. We're refining it as we go along. It will be available for 
preview/comment at some point.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



On Aug 7, 2020, at 10:57 AM, Bill Frantz  wrote:

I have a vague memory that the K4 was supposed to include a built-in help 
system. I can see it as being just showing the relevant section of the manual, 
but it might be different.

Is it currently available, or is it waiting for the manual. or is something 
different?

73 Bill AE6JV

On 8/7/20 at 11:47 AM, r...@tavan.com (Rick Tavan) wrote:


The menu structure is simpler and includes more text.


---
Bill Frantz| "The only thing we have to   | Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | fear is fear itself." - FDR  | 150 Rivermead Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com | Inaugural address, 3/4/1933  | Peterborough, NH 03458

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Re: [Elecraft] 20m CW + KPA1500 = Comcast Disconnect

[Buck]

We have 40-year-old, squirrel-chewed, waterlogged cable in our 
neighborhood.  Lots of unterminated connectors too.  COX has spent 
nothing to maintain it.  Switched to FIOS and problems gone.


At the office, we lose Internet every time it rains.  I swear Comcast is 
using the old Civil War telegrapher's lines.  FIOS is in the ground on 
the other side of the street but Verizon won't extend it into our office 
park.


It is possible to talk about something other than the K4 delivery date.

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/6/2020 6:00 PM, Dave wrote:

I do not have any chokes or ferries and have the beam on a Glen Martin on the roof. 
Shack on second floor and cable modem & router in shack. Hard wired access 
point and gig switch in living room. No issues.

I’d ask the cable tech to show you that you are causing the interruption. 
Coordinate with a friend to operate your station while you observe what the 
tech sees.

Also, how far from your house is the cable node located? Maybe they have 
loose/poor connections in the network allowing ingress of RF?

My cable company uses 28 MHz upstream channels which are a second harmonic of 
20 meters but I would think RF levels at second harmonic should not affect 
anything.

They probably saw your antenna and pointed the finger.

Dave

Sent from my waxed string and tin cans.


On Aug 6, 2020, at 5:33 PM, eric norris via Elecraft  
wrote:

Dear Gang:
While looking at Europe banging in on 20m FT8 this morning, I switched over to 
CW, cruised the band, then called CQ DX for a while.  An hour later, a Comcast 
(Xfinity) technician was knocking on the door (no mask) claiming I was knocking 
out service to 600 customers (he said he had traced it to my house) and was 
disconnecting us from the network.  During the entire time, my wife was using a 
VPN network connecting to her office, and I had the KPA1500 connected to the 
router so I could use FANticipator to keep the KPA1500 (The Big Dog) quiet and 
cool.  We had no service interruption.
The router has a mix 31 toroid choke (9 turns) coming out of one port, on a 
cat6 shielded  cable (all cables brand new) then has another choke before going 
into a switch--one cable going into the XYL's room with her computer, another 
cable going through another choke then going into the shack.  We convinced the 
supervisor to rehook us up.
All during my operating time, we had no service interruption at our house.  
This was, however, the first time I had used the KPA1500 with the 20m beam wich 
sits directly above the house--I usually only let the Big Dog bark in wee hours 
of the morning on 40 and 80m.
My house is 65 yrs old, none of the outlets have grounds, not even the 
bathroom.  The entire kitchen is on one circuit, etc, etc.
Before I call the Comcast supervisor, I'm hoping for some advice from the 
group.  Not letting the Big Dog bark during the daytime on 10/15/20m is not  a 
good solution.  In the meantime I'm on WSPR at 1w.  Your advice, please.

73, Eric WD6DBM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s USB com port no longer working

[Buck]

Could be the update have scrambled your port assignments such that you 
now have a conflict which wasn't there before?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/22/2020 12:31 PM, Mike Harris via Elecraft wrote:
Under what circumstances did this loss of communication happen? If the 
PC sees the K3 USP port (com?) are the programmes still pointing at it?


Regards,

Mike VP8NO



On 22/07/2020 12:59, Howard Sherer wrote:

The USB com port on my K3s is still being seen when connected to my
computer but will no longer connect to any program. I have re booted the
computer 2 times and power cycled the K3 and no change.
Any ideas where I should look?

Howard AE3T

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s USB com port no longer working

[Buck]

Try a cold reboot meaning, turn off the computer, just don't restart it. 
 Try plugging the USB into a different USB jack on the computer.  Then 
turn the computer on.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/22/2020 11:59 AM, Howard Sherer wrote:

The USB com port on my K3s is still being seen when connected to my
computer but will no longer connect to any program. I have re booted the
computer 2 times and power cycled the K3 and no change.
Any ideas where I should look?

Howard AE3T
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[Buck]

Check the obvious.  Are you sure you didn't accidentally turn down the 
RF and/or AF gain on the SubRx?  I know how easy it is to do.  I have 
seen me do it.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/10/2020 2:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat economically

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:

I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.

If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.

So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.

I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.

I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
could bring it to life. Nada.

I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.

Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
great!

Thanks for listening.

73
Ray K2HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S dead after attempted firmware update -FIXED

[Buck]

Please tell us what you did so everyone can learn from your experience

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/6/2020 12:19 PM, Ray Spreadbury via Elecraft wrote:

Thanks to Paul GM0BKC who put me on the right track. Radio now fine &
Firmware update completed

Ray G3XLG

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Buck]

Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  The 
first layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the fusing 
tape later


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/3/2020 12:58 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods 
and procedures that are used.


Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape 
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...

There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.

Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If 
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, 
but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing 
tape

and Scotch 88 just to be safe.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On

Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the 
KPA-1500

as I'd originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during 
damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and 
feedline.

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch 
was

now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather 
expected in

the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet 
box to
the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now 
have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of 
about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to 
address in

the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.

Screencaps:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
witch.png?dl=0

And

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
0tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
=0

   - pjd

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Kit???

[Buck]

Will the option modules be available to be shipped at the same time as a 
factory built K4?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/18/2020 12:12 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

We certainly appreciate the interest in a K4 kit. It does take longer to get 
the kit version out since many new drawings are required to accurately 
communicate details on modules, cables, and hardware to builders (as opposed to 
in-house assembly personnel). Can't really put a date on the kit version at 
this time, but it will be well after we begin shipping the K4 and K4D.

There's an intermediate approach that many of our customers have used over the 
years: get an assembled basic radio, then install option modules yourself as 
required and as time/availability permits. Option modules will come with 
detailed assembly instructions.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



On May 17, 2020, at 2:14 PM, Charlie T  wrote:

Yep, just more fun to "build" one eh?

Actually, I'm just plain "Cheap" and hoping to save a few bucks on a kit
version.
However, recent Elecraft kits are more like erector sets, but I DID build a
K2 complete with soldering stuff.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Steve KC6ZKT
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 4:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 Kit???

On 5/15/20 8:08 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:

And I'm still waiting for the kit version.

Same here. I'm happy to wait for the kit version.

--... ...--
SteveSgt, KC6ZKT, @CM97bj73


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Re: [Elecraft] Rig forCW

[Buck]

A used K3 would be my recommendation if you don't need portability.  The 
K3 is still one of the finest radios ever made and can run the full 100 
watts when QRP just won't cut it.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/12/2020 9:06 AM, Ted Roycraft wrote:

Or maybe pick up a used K3.

On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 8:44 AM W0FK  wrote:


The KX3 allows you to add roofing filters (KXFL3 option), wherease kx2 does
not.

“ The KXFL3 is actually 4 different filters that are shared between Phone
and CW modes.  Containing 2 filters for each mode, the filters switch
points
are:
CW Mode:  500 hz and 1500 hz
Phone mode:  1800 hz and your choice of 2400 or 2900, menu configurable”

If the kx3 is your main radio, and your focus is CW, having the ability to
add narrow passband filtering is essential.

Are you planning to run more power than 10-15 watts? If so, adding
capabilities up to 100 watts via an external amp is pretty simple. If
you’re
going to be adding more power, and don’t plan on using the portability of
the kx3, consider a used K3/100 which has a lot more flexibility for narrow
roofing filters, 100 amps built in and an easier path to adding a kw amp.

73, Lou, W0FK



-
St. Louis, MO

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that
genius has its limits." Albert Einstein


--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Poor CW note more testing and a question (rather long-ish...)

[Buck]

My HV shows 74 volts resting and 60 key down

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/26/2020 4:26 PM, Chuck Chandler wrote:

After several reports that my CW tone sounded less than perfect I've been
on a hunt for possible causes.  Looking at the TX waveform on my P3 it does
look more sausage-shaped than I see in the P3 manual.

So far I've determined my power supply was a little low and sagging a
little under full power.  After changing cabling and adjusting the PS, I
now have 14.2V displayed on the K3 at rest, 13.9 to 14.0V at the 25W level
used to drive the KPA500, and 13.7 to 13.8V at 100W output.  All that now
seems as it should be, but the waveform on the P3 is still elongated.

My KPA500 on a 240V outlet shows HV of 73.5V at rest, 57.3V with 500W
output.  This is a little on the low side, and I may move the HV tap to
bring it back up above 60V under load.

On air testing today with a neighbor I got the report that my CW sounds
just fine until the amp is in line.  Then it is described as "some kind of
artifact... like a bell sound... like a delay."  This is consistent with
the other report I had been getting of a "ringing, bell-like" note to my
CW.  This is most apparent at 30 wpm, as I would be running in a contest.

So far, all the reports I have received from fellow amateurs have been
after a CW Ops weekly contest, during which I usually am running at 30 wpm
and 500W output.  During rag chews with a bug at 22-25 wpm and 500W nobody
has said anything bad about the CW note.

The rig, KAT500 tuner and amp are interconnected via two E850463 Aux
Interface Cables as shown on page 5 of the KAT500 Manual, Rev. C6
(3/8/2017).  CW for contesting is generated by N1MM+ via the K3S USB
interface.  I have a K1EL Winkeyer on order in case the root cause is the
computer... but that elongated waveform remains the most likely factor to
resolve.

My guess is the root cause of all this, power supply issues resolved for
now, is the elongated waveform I see on the P3.  My rise time seems to be
at least 3 or 4 times longer than what I see in the ARRL product reviews or
even in the P3 manual showing an example of a CW waveform.

I have submitted a contact form at the Elecraft support web page, but its
the weekend and with them all working from home I wouldn't mind the
collective wisdom of the group as to any other avenues of investigation.

And, many thanks for the help so far!

73 de Chuck, WS1L


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Re: [Elecraft] K4/0

[Buck]

As I recall, it was an iPad running a Windows emulation.  That's too 
much for my feeble brain to comprehend.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/24/2020 12:25 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:

I believe it was a Windows tablet.  My recollection is that the message was 
that iPad support would come later.  There may have been some progress, but I 
haven’t seen anything new officially from Elecraft.  Might have missed it 
though.

I’m personally hopeful that there will be a fully functional macOS app for 
remote operation.  I run Windows 10 under Parallels to support several ham apps 
for which the developers have decided that Windows and only Windows is 
necessary.  But that would be an unfortunate and unnecessarily messy model to 
embrace.

Grant NQ5T



On Apr 24, 2020, at 12:06 PM, Gmail  wrote:

It was a tablet, I’m not sure it was an IPad
Ray
W8LYJ

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 24, 2020, at 09:15, Mark Musick  wrote:

Steve,
I don't have a link, but if you watch the video from Dayton last year you will 
see Eric demonstrating the K4 using an Ipad. No need for a K4/0. You'll be able 
to remote to it via a tablet, PC and I would expect an app to remote via a 
smartphone.

73,
Mark, WB9CIF


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW

[Buck]

WKMini is $55 from hamcrafters2.com. It stores the USB commands (which 
come very fast and are not subject to timing issues) and decodes into 
perfect dits and dahs.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/23/2020 2:05 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

Any software only CW implementation is going to have timing issues,
especially with the newer operating systems. Best to offload that task to a
processor with nothing else to do. Winkey or Mortty or something similar.

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 13:00 Jim Brown  wrote:


On 4/23/2020 10:46 AM, Frederick Dwight wrote:

   Changed to a winkeyer
with USB interface.  This has always worked great with all rigs,

including my present K3S.

Winkeyer (and winkeyer emulations) are very widely used by serious
contesters, some of whom tool along at 40 wpm.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Buck]

Poke a hole in the braid and sandwich it between two large washers.  Or 
drill a hole in strap and sandwich that.  You can then put multiple 
holes in the strap to connect other wires.


I wish Elecraft had larger ground lugs.

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/23/2020 9:11 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
Thanks for the info, Dave. Your approach works fine IF you're using the 
ground bar ground technique. I'm attempting to follow Jim's advice (see 
slides 91 through 113 in his Grounding and Audio presentation referenced 
below). For this, you need bond wires between the individual boxes in 
the station. BTW, I have found that 1/2" braid can be rolled up and 
crimped in 45A Power Pole connectors.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/23/2020 8:53 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Randy,

I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that. One 
part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/

Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal, 
which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.


Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to 
length into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place 
with a set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic 
torch. You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.


Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...

I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate 
large (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of 
the K3, especially since something like six bond wires need to be 
attached to the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring 
terminals that will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find 
are for #10 studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the 
K3 ground nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a 
bunch of these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some 
means of reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is 
equally difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to 
little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced 
K-Line owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Electrolytic Capacitor failure

[Buck]

I don't know that I would run a K3 off a 20A power supply.  You're 
stressing both.  Did you mean to say 30A?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/15/2020 3:31 PM, Ray Albers wrote:

I could use some knowledge and/or opinions on this subject (Radio/Elecraft
related only because it deals with a power supply that powers a K3!)

The other day I was about to initiate a call, and as soon as I touched the
"dah" paddle the K3 instantly shut off.  The cause was that the power
supply voltage dropped too low when the radio demanded more current.

The power supply is an Astron RS-20A, a big hulking linear supply that I
really like. Huge heavy transformer and two series-pass transistors mounted
on big heat sinks - thus, quiet acoustically (no cooling fan) and
electrically (no RF hash from switching). I have two of these - one that I
bought  for my new radio when I got back into ham radio after a long
absence and the other because I was at a hamfest where someone had a pile
of them that he was selling for only $20 each - who could resist?  So I
trotted out the spare supply and got back on the air. Now to troubleshoot
the bad supply.

I had trouble with this one about five years ago. The output transistors
are plugged into sockets, and on one socket the contacts for the emitter
pin had gotten loose, and there was a vicious spiral of heat causing more
resistance causing more heat until eventually it actually melted the
transistor pin and left a black char on the socket. When I replaced the
socket that time, I decided to solder the emitter pins on both transistors.

It took me a long time to find the problem this time. Various tests told me
the transformer, the full-wave rectifier diodes and the pass transistors
were fine.  Finally - with some help from hints in a great article about
Astron supplies on repeaterbuilder dot com - I figured out that the supply
voltage to the regulator board was too low, so there was not enough "oomph"
available to drive the output transistors when high current was demanded.

  This supply voltage comes from a center tapped transformer secondary
feeding two small diodes (both of which checked OK) to a 1000uF 35 V
electrolytic. Turns out the capacitor was bad. It's a typical aluminum case
with blue plastic covering (which I assume to be heat-shrink plastic
because of the way it is completely molded around the capacitor.)
Replacing it brought the supply voltage up to spec, and now everything
works fine.

But I was surprised about the capacitor failure. Absolutely no visible
signs of anything wrong - no bulging, leaking, etc. And the soldering to
the PC board is perfect.  So here's my question for the group:  What do we
know about electrolytic capacitor failures?  I know that anyone restoring
an old ham transmitter or receiver or BC receiver almost always has to
re-cap it, because the ancient electrolytics, which are usually wet
electrolytics in chassis-mounted cans, will have gone bad. But this is the
first time I've ever had a failure of the more modern type electrolytics. A
quick search of capacitor failure on Google shocked me when I read claims
in several places that these capacitors are only expected to have a two to
five year life!! Can that be?  I know I've got lots of radio gear that's
way older than that and still working fine. To do this repair, I replaced a
capacitor that might only be 5 years old with one that is probably twenty
years old!

Words of wisdom and enlightenment would be most welcome!

73
Ray K2HYD
(K3 #8240, KX-3 #6827)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500

[Buck]

A vendor at Dayton told me *all* are made in China, even the ones marked 
Amphenol.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/10/2020 12:43 PM, Irwin Darack wrote:

Agreed. Many people buy the cheap ones made in Chinaand they fail.

Irwin KD3TB

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 12:28 PM Jim Brown 
wrote:


On 4/10/2020 8:45 AM, Irwin Darack wrote:

In my experience, coax connectors, barrel connectors, etc. are always

fail

points when there is a sudden increase in SWR as power is increased. They
oxidize over time and sometimes just reconnecting or replacing is the

first

step before taking the amp apart.


If this is happening, I'd suspect 1) the connectors have gotten wet or
2) the are JUNK connectors. If they aren't labeled "Amphenol," they're
JUNK.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 hum - problem solved

[Buck]

I would bet your coax shield is acting like a radial and bringing RF 
back into the shack.  Need a choke.



k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/5/2020 5:33 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:

No hum using a dummy load.
No hum using a dipole.
Hum only with my all band vertical.
Thanks for the suggestions.
73
K8NU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SSB Filters

[Buck]

Why go halfway?  I would go with the 1.8 as a roofing filter.  Crank the 
DSP down to 1.6 and slew the passband to get the best readability.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/31/2020 12:17 PM, John Simmons wrote:

David,

I'm looking to upgrade my filters for SSB. I have the 2.8 filter 
installed, which has steeper skirts than the 2.7. I'm wondering if the 
2.1 would have a noticeable enough effect to justify the cost.


-de John NI0K

David Smith wrote on 3/31/2020 10:26 AM:
Been interesting reading the comments on SSB contesting and 
filtering.  As a serious SSB contester from way back in the 80s, side 
rejection from other contesters (especially where we are all bunched 
up on 40 meters and also when the shortwave broadcast stations come 
on) has always been a topic of conversation with my fellow ssb ops -- 
which radio to buy, which filter to use, dsp, etc.
I have the 2.1 khz, 8 pole roofing filter installed in by my K3s BTW.  
With that said, I think the bleeding over QRM from other ssb stations 
(especially on 40 meters) is just the “nature of the beast” with ssb 
contesting.  And boy is it a killer on the ears during and after a 
contest

Anxious to hear other comments from other.

David ND4Y


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 shift-width/lo-hi

[Buck]

How about this one?  K3S CW mode. Tone at 14.053.953 with shift at 650 
Hz, lox cut at .10  High cut at 1.20.  Same tone at 7.026.765 and 
21.074.113 but weaker.  The tone is strong enough to show a spike on the 
P3.


Tone goes away if I move the shift off 650 Hz or change the low cut or 
high cut.  But the spike still appears on the P3 screen?  Something in 
the P3?


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/30/2020 5:50 PM, Keith Trinity WE6R wrote:

Don't forget to do the TX gain cal, that gets wiped during EE INIT.
Then save the config.
**BUT; You might try loading your saved config, then read my notes;
 From my notes;

*_Cannot toggle LEDs SHIFT LO CUT HI WIDTH TAPPING LOCKED in CW or DATA 
mode(s) + N/A_*


_Fix;_Turn off “CW QRQ” in config menu, or set “PB CTRL” to .05 instead 
of .01


Notes; Any of the following, in any combination, will lock out the 
toggle to HI CUT / LO CUT:


CW mode and CW QRQ ON ("+" sign visible on LCD display, not flashing)

CW mode and CONFIG:PB CTRL Shift=.01

DATA mode (FSK/AFSK)

Keith WE6R
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Re: [Elecraft] When might there be a P3 sale or drop in price

[Craig Buck]

P3 doesn't have a mouse point-and-tune feature that I know of.  LpPan with
NaP3 software does.


On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 10:42 AM  wrote:

> I've been fighting getting the P3 for years. After trying to get SDR based
> pan adapters to work reliably (I like the mouse point and tune feature)
> I've
> decided I want to buy a toaster.
>
> Just plug it in and it works.
>
> A fully loaded 200watt P3 with video card..etc is hard to swallow when I
> can
> buy a new HF rig with the Pan adapter built in for less.
>
> Are there plans to have a sale or bigger discount?
>
> My time frame for purchase is March. I'll probably be going to the
> Charlotte, NC Hamfest for the purchase unless I'm on call that week.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Jerry Moore
>
> AE4PB
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Which meter to trust?

[Craig Buck]

A man with two watches never knows what time it is

On Fri, Feb 7, 2020, 1:12 AM Paul Braiman via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Putting my brand new KPA-500 through its paces and I’m noticing a
> significant difference between the peak power displayed on the amp, and the
> peak power displayed on a Telepost LP-700 station monitor.  With the amp
> peaking at 500 watts, the LP-700 will often show peaks in the 600+ watt
> range. The trapezoidal display on the LP-700 does not show any
> non-linearity during such operations.
>
> Is this then simply a difference in how the power is metered?
>
> As always, your collective wisdom is both appreciated and valued.
>
> Paul, W2PIR
>
> Dare Mighty Things.
> -Jet Propulsion Laboratory
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 on-air testing, etc.

[Buck]

The word was the kits would be about 6 months after the first release. 
This allows them to get experience assembling at the factory and allows 
time for writing the assembly manuals.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 1/14/2020 11:29 PM, Charlie T wrote:

I'm guessing there's no new info on the K4 kit version yet.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Paul Van Dyke
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2020 9:27 PM
To: Wayne Burdick 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 on-air testing, etc.

Thank you Wayne
Looking for it to arrive (along with 1000's of others)

Paul - KB9AVO/KP2
chasing from the beach on St Thomas
KX3 #24, KXPA #22 on A123 batteries

On Tue, Jan 14, 2020 at 9:51 PM Wayne Burdick  wrote:


Hi all,

We've been making contacts with our K4s as often as possible, often in
conjunction with checkout of new software. But the Elecraft CW an SSB
nets are another great resource that we've been overlooking. We'll be
getting on these nets frequently in the future.

Also note that we're going to start releasing K4 operational screen
shots as part of a newsletter series that begins soon. The intent is
both to inform potential users about how things work and to solicit
additional feedback.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

[Buck]

The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the 
supply cable didn't make much difference.


Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter 
on the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I 
used two separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the 
meter to make it agree.


Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and 
assume a low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.




Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:


I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.


That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
the PS, or at some other point?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] USB version for USB to serial adapter

[Buck]

There were many counterfeit chips so the patent holders put code in 
their drivers to disable the counterfeits.  The USB version (1, 2 or 3) 
does not matter.  You want to get a genuine converter.  Best way to 
guarantee that is to buy your converter cable from a reputable source. 
Elecraft sells one. So does MFJ.  I am sure there are others.  Just 
don't get some cheap knock-off from the Internet.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/6/2019 10:45 AM, NJMike wrote:

I want to connect my Windows 10 tablet to my K2.  I have the KIO2 module
installed and I have built the K2 serial cable.  I have read the relevant
material on the Elecraft website about avoiding the Prolific chipset.  The
USB port on my tablet is 3.0.  My question is this - can I use any version
of USB (1.1, 2.0, 3.0) to serial adapter to connect the tablet to the K2
cable or is one better than the others?

Thanks,
Mike



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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] K3S to be discontinued

[Buck]

Perhaps the K4 should have been a 40V radio and the K3S remain as the 
12V "portable" or "field" version.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/4/2019 5:02 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

On 2019-11-04 4:44 PM, Scott Manthe wrote:
 > Elecraft's design philosophy dictates that their radio be capable of
 > portable/field operation, so that's how they design their radios.
 > They're lightweight, efficient, and operate off 12 volts.

If that's the design philosophy, limit the power output to 60 W PEP.

Elecraft already have *two* other 12V capable radios - the KX2 and KX3 -
of one doesn't count the K2.  *WHY* create another dirty 12V radio
("active predistortion" is not the solution) when one can have a clean
60W radio at 12V or a clean 200W radio at 40V?

Build a DC-DC supply for the 40V PA stage if one wants to run it from
an automobile electrical system (or install a separate 48V alternator,
regulator and battery specifically for the PA stage).

Increasing transmit IMD by a factor of 40 just to operate the radio
at 100 W PEP on a 12 battery is unconscionable given today's state
of the art.  It was different when 48V transistors/FETs were not
available but that ship sailed almost 20 years ago.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2019-11-04 4:44 PM, Scott Manthe wrote:
Elecraft's design philosophy dictates that their radio be capable of 
portable/field operation, so that's how they design their radios. 
They're lightweight, efficient, and operate off 12 volts. Lots of 
other manufacturers love giant, heavy rigs. Elecraft doesn't.


73,
Scott N9AA


On 11/4/19 3:52 PM, David Gilbert wrote:


I agree completely with all of that, but with the discontinuance of 
the K3s it seems that Elecraft doesn't really consider the K4 to be 
strictly a base station rig.  Their continued insistence upon 
everything being 12 volt capable is a bit of a puzzlement for me.


73,
Dave   AB7E




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Re: [Elecraft] Creaking KPA-500

[Buck]

My creaking went away after a while.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 9/30/2019 1:21 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

The creaking is due to the Heatsink expanding and contracting and the
screws trying to hold them in place.

It is normal and if you loosen screws, you may hear the noise go away.  If
you tighten them, you might break the screws.

I'm not sure which way it will go, but it is normal.

Mike va3mw


On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 1:32 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX 
wrote:


Phil et al;

My factory built KPA500 did a good be of cracking and popping for 3 or 4
months when first received.   But it has stopped.  Guess all the metal
parts settled into a comfortable position and all is now well.I
considered opening it up, tightening or loosing bolts and screws.But
procrastinator me just waited and it stopped by itself.   I  think
that's good.

Love the amp, it is a great performer.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 9/30/2019 7:59 AM, Phillip Zminda wrote:

My kit-built KPA-500 is about 8 months old. Lately I’ve been running a

lot of FT8 and FT4 at around 150 to 200 watts. I have really noticed a lot
of loud creaking from the KPA-500 after a few QSOs on digital modes. The
manual does indicate that some noise is normal but this does seem
excessive, I don’t recall noticing it when on CW or SSB, although I haven’t
done much contesting where the amp would have a lot of running time.


I expect I may need to tighten some screws inside. I really don’t want

to do any more disassembly than necessary and would prefer not to ship back
to Elecraft either. What is the likely culprit and how much disassembly is
required to get to the necessary screws?


Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] New Revision of KPA500 LPF TR Switching Rework Rev. E

[Buck]

I didn't see anything on the Elecraft support page about a mod so I put 
in a ticket a few days ago inquiring about my KPA500 Serial 1503.  So 
far, no answer.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 9/27/2019 11:38 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

Is this an official Elecraft modification?

On 9/27/2019 2:58 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Roy,

The modification can be done as prevent action in order to avoid the 
loosing
the full power (12m) accompanied by burning smell or it can be the 
solution

for
your already ruined amplifier.

The typical KPA500 misbehavior sounds like it is arcing inside and smells
the
classic something is burning smell. The SWR LED's are dancing upwards 
as it

arcs. If you have connected the KAT500 tuner then it has the SWR around
1.3:1... and power is lost.



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] new revision of KPA500 LPF T_R Switching rework Rev.E guide available

[Buck]

Do we have a first serial number that is "safe?" I hate to take mine 
apart to see if this is needed.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 9/24/2019 9:27 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi folks,

just FYI...

Latest updated revision (rev.09-19) of the Elecraft KPA500 - LPF T/R Switch
Rework Rev. E guide is available on my blog here:

http://ok1rp.blogspot.com/2017/02/elecraft-kpa500-lpf-tr-switch-rework.html

Document updates in rev.09-19:

1. All 7 components to be modified or replace in the modification are now
highlighted on the PA/LPF board picture

2. I added short instruction how to remove the PA/LPF module from the KPA500
cabinet (ref. to KPA500 Kit Assembly Instruction manual)

3. Picture of the PA/LPF board with all 7 components marks is available with
better resolution.

The Elecraft KPA500 LPF T_R Switching rework Rev.E guide_24Sep19 document is
also available in .pdf format upon email request.

Maybe it will help,





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & K3S for sale

[Buck]

Don't sell the K3 short.  The basic K3 is still one of the finest radios 
ever made and the difference between it and newer radios is hardly 
noticeable to the human ear.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/26/2019 8:56 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

I'm keeping my K3S.I'll decide on a K4 next year.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 26, 2019, at 5:33 PM, Charlie T  wrote:

Obviously, a lot of us are dumping our K3's (plural) & K3S' (also plural) as 
their prices have fallen through the floor with the introduction of the K4.
(Can't say I'm thrilled about THAT, but it IS inevitable as new models are 
introduced.)

However, a lot of the 'for sale' listings cleverly try to sneak the "S" onto 
the model number, or imply that it is a K3S when the radio really is NOT a K3S.
Bear in mind, if your radio does not show K3S on the front panel, it is a K3, 
albeit upgraded, but  NOT a K3S.

The new synthesizer boards will improve performance, but there are some subtle 
differences between a K3 and a K3S that no amount of updating with new boards 
or mods can change.

While the K3 concept of buying a newer "upgraded" synthesizer board for 
example,  rather than a new radio sounds like a great idea which will surely change the 
performance, I feel it is NOT a feasible solution, as it generates a worthless board that 
is only good as a pistol target.
My particular course of action was to sell my K3 after I had taken out what 
ever options I could add to a new K3S.
That way, I get the latest production changes (note, there ARE a number of them 
pertinent ONLY to the K3S) and,  no junk boards are generated.

Too bad I can't do the same thing with the K4.
(Got a nice bullet here I'm about to bite on !)

73, Charlie k3ICH




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Re: [Elecraft] Serial port problems

[Buck]

Many USB>Serial cables contain counterfeit chips.  The legitimate makers 
fought back by installing driver instructions that disable the 
counterfeit.  Maybe your update finally caught up.  The Elecraft cables 
are legitimate.  Don't buy cheap knock-offs from the Internet.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 8/5/2019 9:49 AM, Gary Tuck via Elecraft wrote:

The culprit was the serial/USB cable.  Got a new one from Elecraft and all is 
well.

Thank you all.

73,
Gary W7TEA



On Jul 16, 2019, at 1:17 PM, Gary Tuck  wrote:

For the first time I am having difficulties communicating with my K3/P3.  The 
only thing which has changed is an upgrade to the Mac OS.  Now running 10.14.5 
Mohave.  I reinstalled the FTD driver for the serial cable, tried both my iMac 
and MacBook and neither finds the P3 responding. I have not been on the air for 
several months so I am not sure when the issue arose.

Has any had similar experiences and solved them?

73,
Gary W7TEA


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 and mouse control

[Buck]

Yes, you will.  There is a USB port of the front of the radio and two 
more on the back. You can plug in a keyboard, mouse, Kpod, whatever.  I 
specifically asked about the point and click QSY and it is there.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/21/2019 6:07 PM, Ed Schuller via Elecraft wrote:

I have looked over the information from Elecraft on the K4, and unless I missed 
this, it does not appear that you will be able to plug a mouse into the radio 
and click on a signal on the screen to move the VFO. Am I correct in this 
assumption or is there in fact a provision for a mouse?

73,
Ed K6CTA

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT4 ATU

[Buck]

The base K4 does not include the ATU, just like the base K3 did not. 
Some people don't want or need an ATU in the radio.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/21/2019 11:05 AM, Dick Dickinson wrote:

I notice that a KAT4 ATU is offered as a separate purchase item.  In the
brochure, that ATU is listed under K4 Key Specs and Features.  Is it safe to
assume the basic K4(F) includes the KAT4 ATU?

Perhaps the KAT4 ATU is listed separately as a possible option on a future
K4 kit.

Or, perhaps the KAT4 ATU is offered as a 2nd tuner to match a 2nd antenna as
could be found in a K4D.


Hopefully we can get some clarification.


73,
Dick  - KA5KKT

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Observations

[Buck]

I heard that as well.  Elecraft's modular construction will allow for 
component upgrades as it did with the new synthesizers, thereby 
extending the useful life of the radio a couple of generations.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/20/2019 12:30 PM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
Yes, I think Eric mentioned in the video that an upgraded ADC for the K4 
might be offered in a few years. Does this mean a higher resolution ADC 
(18 or 20 bit)?


73,
Drew
AF2Z


On 05/20/19 08:59, Ed K1EP wrote:

On Sat, May 18, 2019, 23:45 Grant Youngman  wrote:


I think your observations are spot on in most respects.

While the basic K4 is certainly going to be a great radio, it will 
likely
NOT have the strong signal handling characteristics of the K3/K3S.  
There

will still be the likelihood of A/D clipping suffered by virtually all
16-bit SDRs in a high-density RF environment.



I would guess that once a better preforming A/D becomes available and
affordable, a plugin upgrade will be available to replace the current 
A/D,

similar in concept to the synthesizer upgrades in the K3.
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Re: [Elecraft] Sensitivity - Was K4 Observations

[Buck]

Here's a question about sensitivity.  We used to say if you could hear 
the atmospheric noise, that was enough.  Time to reduce RF gain.


New modes hear below the noise and DSP is getting better at removing it. 
 Does that mean our "old" wisdom is now wrong and sensitivity below the 
noise level is useful?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/19/2019 6:58 AM, John Stengrevics wrote:

Buck,

Did you happen to discuss:

1.  Noise blanker improvement

2.  Improvement in sensitivity

Relative to the K3S?

73,

John
WA1EAZ


On May 18, 2019, at 11:09 PM, Buck  wrote:

The following is offered based on my observations and discussions at the 
Elecraft booth.  I am *not* an official, or even unofficial, Elecraft spokesman 
and stand willing to be corrected.

First, this is going to be another game-changer from Elecraft.  The radio will 
have outstanding performance figures and an interface to die for.  The screen 
is beautiful and functions can be controlled from either buttons or the 
touch-screen.  There is band-stacking on the touch screen, a nit people have 
complained about on the K3.

The radio is full SDR as opposed to the analog front end of the K3. However an 
option, the K4HD, is a superhet receive function.  Like previous Elecraft 
radios, this can be added later if you think you need it.  Preliminary is that 
it will not be necessary unless you operate in the presence of strong stations 
(multi-multi).

Another option has a second set of band pass filters and ADC module that will 
allow the two receivers to operate on different bands or antennas (K4D).

The radio contains a Linux computer so all this magic does not require an 
external computer except for logging or audio input. The rig will be 
addressable locally or over the internet with no additional software.  I saw it 
operated from an iPad and Android is coming.  The iPad screen looked exactly 
like the front panel, including the panadapter.

There are multiple USB ports, an Ethernet port, RS232 and an HDMI port so you 
can project the front panel, or parts of it, to an external monitor.  The 
panadapter looks awesome on the external monitor and you will be able to point 
and click to QSY the radio.

The prices are targets but I got the impression the final will be very close.  
The cost is less than a fully loaded K3s. The kit version will be cheaper than 
factory-assembled and ship several months later to allow time to write the 
assembly manual.  Target for the factory version is November.

I suspect the K4 will replace the K3 series as K3s sales are sure to suffer 
because of product age and competition from the K4.  I did not hear any talk 
about sun-setting the K3s when the K4 comes out.  I am sure there are many 
people who will want to buy the basic K3s and upgrade over time (or not) rather 
than plunk down $4,000 for the K4.

What does this do to the value of a K3 or K3s?  I expect there will be some 
coming on the market.  Anyone who buys, or retains, a K3 or K3s will still have 
one of the finest radios ever made.  We are at the point where the difference 
among the top 5 or so on Sherwood's charts is a decibel or two, almost within 
the margin of error and certainly beyond the ability of the human ear to 
discern.  So, don't panic.  The demand for the K3 series will be strong for 
many years to come.

Keep an eye on the website as more information comes from Watsonville.


--
Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Observations

[Buck]

Sorrily not but, knowing Elecraft and the excellent work they do, I am 
sure this radio will be outstanding.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/19/2019 6:58 AM, John Stengrevics wrote:

Buck,

Did you happen to discuss:

1.  Noise blanker improvement

2.  Improvement in sensitivity

Relative to the K3S?

73,

John
WA1EAZ


On May 18, 2019, at 11:09 PM, Buck  wrote:

The following is offered based on my observations and discussions at the 
Elecraft booth.  I am *not* an official, or even unofficial, Elecraft spokesman 
and stand willing to be corrected.

First, this is going to be another game-changer from Elecraft.  The radio will 
have outstanding performance figures and an interface to die for.  The screen 
is beautiful and functions can be controlled from either buttons or the 
touch-screen.  There is band-stacking on the touch screen, a nit people have 
complained about on the K3.

The radio is full SDR as opposed to the analog front end of the K3. However an 
option, the K4HD, is a superhet receive function.  Like previous Elecraft 
radios, this can be added later if you think you need it.  Preliminary is that 
it will not be necessary unless you operate in the presence of strong stations 
(multi-multi).

Another option has a second set of band pass filters and ADC module that will 
allow the two receivers to operate on different bands or antennas (K4D).

The radio contains a Linux computer so all this magic does not require an 
external computer except for logging or audio input. The rig will be 
addressable locally or over the internet with no additional software.  I saw it 
operated from an iPad and Android is coming.  The iPad screen looked exactly 
like the front panel, including the panadapter.

There are multiple USB ports, an Ethernet port, RS232 and an HDMI port so you 
can project the front panel, or parts of it, to an external monitor.  The 
panadapter looks awesome on the external monitor and you will be able to point 
and click to QSY the radio.

The prices are targets but I got the impression the final will be very close.  
The cost is less than a fully loaded K3s. The kit version will be cheaper than 
factory-assembled and ship several months later to allow time to write the 
assembly manual.  Target for the factory version is November.

I suspect the K4 will replace the K3 series as K3s sales are sure to suffer 
because of product age and competition from the K4.  I did not hear any talk 
about sun-setting the K3s when the K4 comes out.  I am sure there are many 
people who will want to buy the basic K3s and upgrade over time (or not) rather 
than plunk down $4,000 for the K4.

What does this do to the value of a K3 or K3s?  I expect there will be some 
coming on the market.  Anyone who buys, or retains, a K3 or K3s will still have 
one of the finest radios ever made.  We are at the point where the difference 
among the top 5 or so on Sherwood's charts is a decibel or two, almost within 
the margin of error and certainly beyond the ability of the human ear to 
discern.  So, don't panic.  The demand for the K3 series will be strong for 
many years to come.

Keep an eye on the website as more information comes from Watsonville.


--
Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K4 Observations

[Buck]

The following is offered based on my observations and discussions at the 
Elecraft booth.  I am *not* an official, or even unofficial, Elecraft 
spokesman and stand willing to be corrected.


First, this is going to be another game-changer from Elecraft.  The 
radio will have outstanding performance figures and an interface to die 
for.  The screen is beautiful and functions can be controlled from 
either buttons or the touch-screen.  There is band-stacking on the touch 
screen, a nit people have complained about on the K3.


The radio is full SDR as opposed to the analog front end of the K3. 
However an option, the K4HD, is a superhet receive function.  Like 
previous Elecraft radios, this can be added later if you think you need 
it.  Preliminary is that it will not be necessary unless you operate in 
the presence of strong stations (multi-multi).


Another option has a second set of band pass filters and ADC module that 
will allow the two receivers to operate on different bands or antennas 
(K4D).


The radio contains a Linux computer so all this magic does not require 
an external computer except for logging or audio input. The rig will be 
addressable locally or over the internet with no additional software.  I 
saw it operated from an iPad and Android is coming.  The iPad screen 
looked exactly like the front panel, including the panadapter.


There are multiple USB ports, an Ethernet port, RS232 and an HDMI port 
so you can project the front panel, or parts of it, to an external 
monitor.  The panadapter looks awesome on the external monitor and you 
will be able to point and click to QSY the radio.


The prices are targets but I got the impression the final will be very 
close.  The cost is less than a fully loaded K3s. The kit version will 
be cheaper than factory-assembled and ship several months later to allow 
time to write the assembly manual.  Target for the factory version is 
November.


I suspect the K4 will replace the K3 series as K3s sales are sure to 
suffer because of product age and competition from the K4.  I did not 
hear any talk about sun-setting the K3s when the K4 comes out.  I am 
sure there are many people who will want to buy the basic K3s and 
upgrade over time (or not) rather than plunk down $4,000 for the K4.


What does this do to the value of a K3 or K3s?  I expect there will be 
some coming on the market.  Anyone who buys, or retains, a K3 or K3s 
will still have one of the finest radios ever made.  We are at the point 
where the difference among the top 5 or so on Sherwood's charts is a 
decibel or two, almost within the margin of error and certainly beyond 
the ability of the human ear to discern.  So, don't panic.  The demand 
for the K3 series will be strong for many years to come.


Keep an eye on the website as more information comes from Watsonville.


--
Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Re K4

[Buck]

Something is coming for sure and they are so excited about it, they 
can't hold it in like they usually do.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/27/2019 9:10 AM, Don Roberts via Elecraft wrote:

Watch Eric for hints. Couple years back at Hamcation in Orlando I asked Eric if there was 
any possibility of a KPA1000 to which came the grin then he replied "why only 
1000?"  There's your sign.
Don, W4CBS

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] Bouvet

[Buck]

That is my understanding.  The location of the transmitter is what 
controls.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/23/2019 6:05 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Knut,

If I recall, the DXCC credit is for the location of the transmitting 
station, so if you are operating remotely, it would be the location of 
the station you are remoting into, not your control location.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 3/23/2019 5:34 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi Elecrafters,

His site asks the question "is this legal?" Presumably, as far as FCC is
concerned it is. But if I work Bouvet using this remote, can I really 
claim
DXCC credit for myself for it? It would seem exceptionally unfair. 
Doesn't
ARRL have a rule for as how far you can move from place to place and 
still
claim accumulated DXCC credits? I find this highly troubling. I would 
never
use this. I want my DXCC to be real (well over 200 credits from 100W 
(K3 of

course) and a dipole at a single location).

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Sub Receiver stopped working

[Buck]

I thought I remembered seeing that in the instructions.  If I was wrong, 
my apologies.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/22/2019 1:40 PM, Nr4c wrote:

Since when can there be no empty slots between filters?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Mar 22, 2019, at 1:10 PM, Buck  wrote:

No blank slots allowed between filters

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com


On 3/22/2019 11:59 AM, KE8G wrote:
Hi All,
I need some suggestions on where to start trouble shooting.  I looked at
Nabble and I have checked all that is listed there and no luck.
The sub receiver was working perfectly.  I took the radio apart to add some
new filters to the sub receiver.  It originally had two of them; configured
as 2.8Khz, then a 400Hz right next to it, and then 3 blank slots.  I
removed the 400Hz, the the filters are in the following order; 2.8Khz,
blank slot, 1.0Hz, 400Hz, and finally 250Hz in the 5th slot.
I used the K3 utility to configure them, with the appropriate settings for
each filter.
When using the radio, I have both the main and sub receiver on the Main
antenna.  If I tune to a strong signal on the band, using just the main
receiver, I hear on both sides of the headphones.  When I engage the sub
receiver, I still hear the signal in the left ear, but the right ear goes
to just white noise.
When the sub receiver is engaged, I can hear sounds in the left ear when
pushing any buttons on the radio.
I am somewhat stumped, as I was very diligent in disassembly and then
re-assembling it.  Using most current firmware, 5.66.
Please advise.
73 de Jim - KE8G
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Sub Receiver stopped working

[Buck]

No blank slots allowed between filters

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/22/2019 11:59 AM, KE8G wrote:

Hi All,
I need some suggestions on where to start trouble shooting.  I looked at
Nabble and I have checked all that is listed there and no luck.

The sub receiver was working perfectly.  I took the radio apart to add some
new filters to the sub receiver.  It originally had two of them; configured
as 2.8Khz, then a 400Hz right next to it, and then 3 blank slots.  I
removed the 400Hz, the the filters are in the following order; 2.8Khz,
blank slot, 1.0Hz, 400Hz, and finally 250Hz in the 5th slot.

I used the K3 utility to configure them, with the appropriate settings for
each filter.

When using the radio, I have both the main and sub receiver on the Main
antenna.  If I tune to a strong signal on the band, using just the main
receiver, I hear on both sides of the headphones.  When I engage the sub
receiver, I still hear the signal in the left ear, but the right ear goes
to just white noise.

When the sub receiver is engaged, I can hear sounds in the left ear when
pushing any buttons on the radio.

I am somewhat stumped, as I was very diligent in disassembly and then
re-assembling it.  Using most current firmware, 5.66.

Please advise.
73 de Jim - KE8G
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic Noise

[Buck]

The mics work.  My problem was a burst of noise when the rig went into 
transmit.


It appears re-seating the USB cable in the back of the radio has cured 
the problem.  It did not appear to be lose.  And the noise would appear 
even if I was using the VOX or PTT switch or the internal DVR.  In other 
words, not using the USB to trigger the radio.


There's one to put in the books.  I am sure I won't be the only person 
to run into this and I still can't explain it.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/17/2019 12:22 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Buck,

It sounds like that noise is coming from whatever computer software 
application you are using.  You mentioned N1MM.
When you unplug the USB cable, whatever software you are using loses 
communications with the radio.
When you plug it back in, that program is not attempting to re-establish 
communications.


What applications do you have active on your computer?

I again suggest you get the microphone to work first - unplug everything 
from the K3 except the microphone, the power and the antenna 
connection.  There may be something unrelated to the microphone going 
awry, so eliminate everything except the microphone.  When that works, 
build things back up one at a time until you discover the culprit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 7:13 PM, Buck wrote:
I've tried all the combination of mics and mic bias.  The noise 
happens even with the mic gain turned all the way down and the rig in 
TEST mode.  It happens when N1MM is not running.  It happens using the 
internal DVR card.  It happens with the mic disconnected and using the 
XMIT button on the front of the radio.

-
Here is a clue.  If I turn on the VOX and reduce the either the RF or 
AF gain on the receiver, I start getting the noise about once every 
half second.  It sounds like it starts with a "ping." Sounds like 
something is polling the radio.


If I disconnect the USB cable on the back of the radio, no noise. It 
seemed to be properly seated.  Now, if I plug the USB cable back into 
the radio, no noise.  Have I found the culprit?  A lose USB cable?





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Re: [Elecraft] Mic Noise

[Buck]

I've tried all the combination of mics and mic bias.  The noise happens 
even with the mic gain turned all the way down and the rig in TEST mode. 
 It happens when N1MM is not running.  It happens using the internal 
DVR card.  It happens with the mic disconnected and using the XMIT 
button on the front of the radio.

-
Here is a clue.  If I turn on the VOX and reduce the either the RF or AF 
gain on the receiver, I start getting the noise about once every half 
second.  It sounds like it starts with a "ping."  Sounds like something 
is polling the radio.


If I disconnect the USB cable on the back of the radio, no noise.  It 
seemed to be properly seated.  Now, if I plug the USB cable back into 
the radio, no noise.  Have I found the culprit?  A lose USB cable?


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/16/2019 4:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Buck,

The Heil Goldline mic is a dynamic type, last I heard it has an HC-5 
element.  It should have bias off.
The Elecraft MH4 is an electret type and must have bias set on - use 
"FP.L bias"


It may just be that you have too much mic gain - start with a mid-range 
setting.  The mic preamp can shut down if it receivers too much signal.


Make sure there is nothing plugged into the rear mic jack - although MIC 
SEL should allow you to switch from one to another.


If you are not successful, do you have one of the computer type 
microphones?  If so, plug it into the rear mic jack, set MIC SEL to 
"RP.L bias" and see if you get any audio.


Have you made any changes to the Front Panel assembly where you removed 
the DSP board?  If so, there is one connector between the Front Panel 
board and DSP board that if not mated properly will cause the front 
panel audio to fail.


The TX DLY should have nothing to do with it.  The KPA500 becomes active 
with very little delay.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 4:24 PM, Buck wrote:
Thanks. I was using a Heil Goldline and also tried an Elecraft MH4 
plugged in the front.  I get the same noise on FP.L and FP.H  Bias is 
off.  And, I still get the noise even when in TEST mode, so there is 
no RF.


I had the Tx Dly on the K3S set to 8.  I set it to 15 and the problem 
went away.  Was I hitting the amp too soon?  Amp is a KPA500.


Now the problem is back, even with the Tx Dly set to 20.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/16/2019 3:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Buck,

Which transceiver and which microphone?
If the K3, are you using the front panel mic jack or the jack in the 
back?

How do you have MIC SEL set?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 2:57 PM, Buck wrote:
I never use a microphone so here I am today trying to run voice in 
the Va QSO party.


When I key the mic, I get a burst of noise that lasts maybe a half 
second.  It does this even if I have the rig in "test" mode ie. no 
transmit.  So, I don't think it is RF.







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Re: [Elecraft] Mic Noise

[Buck]

Thanks.  I was using a Heil Goldline and also tried an Elecraft MH4 
plugged in the front.  I get the same noise on FP.L and FP.H  Bias is 
off.  And, I still get the noise even when in TEST mode, so there is no 
RF.


I had the Tx Dly on the K3S set to 8.  I set it to 15 and the problem 
went away.  Was I hitting the amp too soon?  Amp is a KPA500.


Now the problem is back, even with the Tx Dly set to 20.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/16/2019 3:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Buck,

Which transceiver and which microphone?
If the K3, are you using the front panel mic jack or the jack in the back?
How do you have MIC SEL set?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 2:57 PM, Buck wrote:
I never use a microphone so here I am today trying to run voice in the 
Va QSO party.


When I key the mic, I get a burst of noise that lasts maybe a half 
second.  It does this even if I have the rig in "test" mode ie. no 
transmit.  So, I don't think it is RF.



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[Elecraft] Mic Noise

[Buck]

I never use a microphone so here I am today trying to run voice in the 
Va QSO party.


When I key the mic, I get a burst of noise that lasts maybe a half 
second.  It does this even if I have the rig in "test" mode ie. no 
transmit.  So, I don't think it is RF.


I have tried adjusting the mic gain and changing mics - no luck.  It 
does the same thing using VOX except the noise cycles about every half 
second.


Anyone have an idea?
--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 Voltage Drop when transmitting

[Buck]

There are two adjustments in my Astron 35A supply.  One on the board, 
adjusts the voltage.  Another on the meter, calibrates the meter.  I 
found my output on the terminals was almost a volt low even though the 
meter read full.


I adjusted the pot on the board and then calibrated the meter using two 
different VOMs.  Now, all is well.  Trust but verify...


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 2/25/2019 2:44 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I suspect the problem is the power supply and Don has some good
suggestions. I am not sure what the actual K3 power requirements are.
FWIW, Astron's are rated for ICS, if you really want 25 amps continuous
you need a 35 amp linear power supply.

John KK9A



Don Wilhelm donwilh at embarqmail.com
M
Jimmy,

Astron power supplies have a nasty habit of having loose wiring
terminals.  They use only pressure to hold the ring terminals on the
inside to the terminal bolts.
If you can detect even a slight rotation of the bolt when tightening
terminals on the outside, remove the covers and tighten those bolts from
the inside.

The other problem is improperly assembled APP connectors.  If you look
straight into the end of the connector, if you can see the tip of 2
blades in either side, give the contact blade an extra push from the
wire side until the contact blade locks over the locking tab.
That is also a cause of APP connectors which tend to pull out with very
little tension.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/25/2019 2:12 PM, James Walker wrote:

I have a K3 that behaves similarly to what Mike described. I switched

from an Astron 25 amp (15 years or more old) power supply to a switching
power supply. Problem solved. One would think the problem was my Astron
power supply, but I don’t see any such power drop when I use my Astron
with other 100 watt rigs. Very strange.


Jimmy Walker, WA4ILO
Macon, GA


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Standard internal Noise

[Buck]

Where did you find "quality" cables?

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 1/3/2019 2:49 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

I've had the same issue here.

73, Jim K9YC

On 1/3/2019 9:56 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:

I own several P3s and all were supplied with cables that are very
susceptible to external RFI because of their very poor quality BNC
connectors. I replaced the cables and my P3s have never had an RFI
problem again. The Elecraft supplied cables went in the trash bin.



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Re: FS: KPA500/KAT500 Combo

[Buck]

I feel every email that asks me to click on a link is a potential bomb. 
Even email from a trusted source might be spoofed.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/9/2018 8:49 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

I honestly forgot ... I also have Norton 360 that's updated daily.  It's
likely that much of my lack of SPAM should be credited there.

73 !

K0PP

On Fri, Nov 9, 2018, 18:40 W0FK 
“Deal killer.
Ken ke4rg“

Interesting reaction to having a “grant permission” spam filter. It takes
just a minute or less to verify the email  you’re sending from isn’t junk.
I
don’t see how a small inconvenience could be a deal breaker. But to each
his/her own.

My isp screens out most spam, but I had to go to a more robust spam filter
after I got on some spammer list that used emails that defeated typical
spam
screens. I was getting over 300 spam emails a day. I’ve reduced that
substantially but still see them flow through on occasion.



-
St. Louis, MO

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that
genius has its limits." Albert Einstein


--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Confessions of grounding

[Craig Buck]

I added two large washers over the post.  Makes it easier to sandwich the
ground braid between them.  Poke a hole in the braid to go over the post.

On Fri, Oct 12, 2018, 12:49 PM Leroy Buller  wrote:

> Ok, I just rebuilt my station and wonder how many of you actually ground
> your K3 or your rig?  I have the amp and tuner grounded, but I find
> grounding the K3 somewhat difficult.  Why?  Getting my fat ham fingers to
> the rear if the rig and tighting up the knurled knob with stiff wire is
> quite infuriating.  All the connecting cables are in the way and it just
> trips my trigger.  Then being able to reach over all the doodads and
> geegaws to attach ground is a frustration of mine.  Many years ago it was
> good practice to use solid wire but now i see others using braid.  Stiff
> wire adds to my frustration.   So, for my mental health I would like some
> suggestions or ideas how best to deal with this.  I know...suck it up.
> There has got to be a better way.
>
> Lee K0WA
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Re: [Elecraft] SVGA for P3 - only looking for ten (10) replies (is that possible?)

[Buck]

I really wish it were possible to implement the features of NaP3 on to 
the display.  Mouse click QSY and internet spots would be a huge 
benefit.  Has anyone done this?


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/23/2018 1:43 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
The P3 itself is fine for me.  I'm a casual operator and even more 
casual contester.  I know that, if you run in the top DX/Contest 
circles, it is very useful.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/22/2018 7:19 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:

Hi guys, hoping this discussion will be limited. However, that said...

For those that have experience, is the SVGA option really necessary 
for the P3? Does it really add a lot? I don’t need the keyboard/ 
digital features it adds, just asking if a larger (20”+) SVGA display 
is worth it or is the default smaller display just fine? Is there some 
scenario where the bigger display really makes the difference or is it 
that bigger is better rules?


Thanks!
73
Michael
KK6RWK



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Buck]

I noticed the clicks when the amp was new.  Advice was to re-seat the 
toroid transformer.  That made no difference but the clicks have gone 
away.  I assume the transformer settled in, if such a thing is possible.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/17/2018 5:37 PM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

"I'd appreciate a  pointer to any discussions of Z bracket clicks.  My search didn't 
find anything."


I looked again and this time found some discussion here - 
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-kpa500-pinging-during-operating.591521/
and here  - 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Heat-Expansion-Pop-td7075132.html.


Reading between the lines I get the impression Elecraft tried to fix the 
problem, found they had not, so wrote in the manual that it is normal.


I'd still like an answer to the question I asked April 21, 2018 -

"To what extend does the thermal design require conduction between the PA heat sink 
and the case metalwork?  Would the thermal management be compromised if very thin mylar 
strips were placed between the heat sink and the case side panel , case rear panel, or Z 
bracket?".

Would someone at Elecraft please respond to this.
Thanks and 73,
Andy k3wyc




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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] factory upgrade to K3(s)

[Buck]

Hey, at least it is not "K3 Pro"  or "K3 Mark IIG"

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/27/2018 7:12 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Why not adopt the grammar of the Lao [and Thai] languages which have no 
plural forms.  It would be K3S, two K3S, three K3S, one hundred K3S 
...   I've always thought K3S was a misteak, K3.1 would have been better 
... or not.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/27/2018 3:00 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Would not K3S' be the plural of K3S?

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 27, 2018, at 4:44 PM, Ian White  wrote:


A big reduction in receiver noise floor and a huge improvement in

both

transmit and receive phase noise.

That is far too simplistic. Anyone's personal definition of "the
better synthesizer" will depend on what range of frequency offsets
is more important for their particular type of operating.

For HF CW in particular, phase noise at small frequency offsets is
of paramount importance and I wouldn't argue with Don's report of "a
huge improvement in both transmit and receive phase noise" - but
*only* in that specific context. There are also several other
advantages that are relevant to high-performance HF CW that could
also justify upgrading to the KSYN3A.

At close frequency offsets from the carrier, the KSYN3A does indeed
offer a large reduction in phase noise compared with the KSYN3
(which itself was already good). But at wider frequency offsets,
that situation reverses. According to the ARRL review [1], at all
offsets beyond about 6kHz, the older KSYN3 continues to have a lower
noise floor than the newer KSYN3A "upgrade".

Performance at wider frequency offsets, 10-100kHz and beyond, is of
much greater importance in VHF-UHF contesting. This due to a
combination of factors. The strongest signals at VHF-UHF are often
much stronger than on HF, due to the use of high-gain beam antennas;
and also the weakest signals are *always* much, much weaker due to
the lower levels of natural background noise. These two features
stretch the requirement for dynamic range on VHF-UHF far beyond
those for which most HF transceivers are designed.

Anyone transmitting wideband phase noise has a much greater risk of
raising the noise floor of many other stations across the whole
contesting segment of the VHF or UHF band. Running the numbers
reveals that anyone aiming to be a Big Gun in VHF contests has a
responsibility to keep their wideband transmitted noise floor below
about -130dBc/Hz at frequency offsets of 50kHz and more [2]. This
can be a major engineering challenge, and the performance of the
transceiver is almost always the most important building block.

The KSYN3A just about meets the -130dBc/Hz noise floor target at
frequency offsets of 10kHz or more... but according to the ARRL
review [1] the older KSYN3 achieves it much more comfortably, with
10-15dB to spare.

I have both a K3S and a very early-model K3. The K3S (with the
KSYN3A, of course) is used for HF contesting where smaller frequency
offsets are important. Meanwhile the old K3 is now used as a
transverter driver for 144MHz and above - and for that particular
purpose there are very good reasons *not* to replace the original
KSYN3.

73 from Ian GM3SEK


[1]
http://www.arrl.org/files/file/ProductReviewsForDeb/2015/pr112015.pd
f

[2]
https://thersgb.org/members/publications/video_archive.php?id=5703
Sorry, this talk is accessible only to RSGB members, but in a few
words...

G8DOH runs the numbers to demonstrate that the  -130dBc/Hz target
for transmitted phase noise is necessary to avoid raising the noise
floor of other stations many kilometres away, and also many tens to
hundreds of kHz away across the band, whenever their high-gain beams
happen to be pointed at each other.

That calculation assumes the UK transmitter power limit of 400W PEP
output. For the US power limit of 1500W output, keeping all other
assumptions the same, the target for transmitted noise floor would
need to be better than -135dBc/Hz. The older KSYN3 can still meet
that more stringent target but the KSYN3A probably cannot.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: 27 June 2018 14:23
To: hawley, charles j jr; Charlie T
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] factory upgrade to K3(s)

Chuck,

A big reduction in receiver noise floor and a huge improvement in

both

transmit and receive phase noise.  It is like getting a new

transceiver.

If you are strictly a casual operator, those qualities may not be
important to you, but if you are a DX'er or a contester, or

otherwise

operate in crowded band condition, those things should be important
to you.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/27/2018 9:03 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
I decided to bypass the replacement of 

Re: [Elecraft] Field Day Report

[Buck]

Only the transmitter has to be on battery power.  You can run a 
computer, air-conditioner and television on a generator or even mains 
power.



Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/26/2018 11:57 AM, Peter Wollan wrote:

For several years I've been using my K2 to have a QRP station at our club's
FD (Rochester MN - K0Z).  They used to run kilowatts, but have settled on
100 watts, and aren't willing to use less. So, the QRP station is
administratively a separate FD entry (W0LLN), it receives the x5
multiplier, and I get to help set up and take down, to share in the
camaraderie, the food, the portapotty, and all the bonus points I feel I
can justify -- I get the ARRL message from someone else, I claim the info
table and the education, but the elected official never came over to me so
I don't think I can claim that.  Overall, it works well, and there are
always a few people interested in what a simple station looks like.

I stick with S and paper logging -- I don't have enough battery power to
keep a laptop going, and my iPad just won't do it.  Next year maybe my CW
will be up to running, and I'll get a more satisfying score.  But I did get
K6IE, who was at least as loud as anyone else -- QRP to QRP, halfway across
the country.

Peter W0LLN

On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 12:15 AM, Bill Frantz  wrote:


The West Valley Amateur Radio Association returned to Mora Hill above Los
Altos, Ca for field day. We used K6EI for our main call and W6ZZZ for GOTA.
This year we were 14A, QRP, battery and solar panel powered. We had the
luxury of lots of panels, so we were able to have a 120V utility for
running our computers. We also had enough extra power to run our fans etc.,
as the temperatures on Saturday were in the high 90s (c36C or so).

Note, we are not permitted to operate generators at night, so we don't use
them at all.

We were in category 14A with 3 CW stations, 3 SSB stations, and 2 digital
stations on HF. VHF and UHF filled the rest of the transmitter slots. We
had separate triband antennas for CW, SSB, and digital with triband filters
to allow use of all three bands at once. We also had separate wire antennas
for 40M and 80M. GOTA had its own set of antennas. Getting all this set up
took the better part of the daylight on Friday. (Thanks ARRL for the rule
change that permits early setup Friday when it is cooler.)

We minimize interference between stations on the same band by careful
antenna placement, running QRP, using Elecraft and Flex gear, and providing
adequate voltage to the radios. I could see our CW stations on the P3 while
operating digital, but they were just strong CW stations and caused no
interference.

Our networked N1MM logging system lets us cheer every time we pass a QSO
count milepost, as well as providing lots of backup for the logs.

Our GOTA operation was quite popular, with QSOs 150% of last year. Since
we are next to a popular trail in the San Antonio Open Space Preserve, we
get a lot of bicycle visitors. Some know about ham radio and others have
never heard of it.

It appears our main operation QSO count was slightly ahead of last year,
but I haven't seen a full comparison yet.

We got lots of people on the air, with some trying new modes for the first
time. I counted 21 people who actually made it into the group photo.
Everyone had a good time and went home tired.

73 Bill AE6JV


---
Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is *not* the
www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly


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Re: [Elecraft] P3_SVGA Wireless KB Support?

[Buck]

What Macros are people putting in the P3?  I only thought they were 
helpful if you were operating remotely.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/25/2018 10:52 AM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
I have not found a way to pre-load macros either, but alas, it is the 
same, with or without the Genovation.  The Genovation just forces you to 
load a lot of macros at once, so it feels like it is related.  I think, 
no matter how you use the P3, with or without the Genovation, you always 
need to preload macros by hand.


Like yourself, (here comes a request for a new feature Elecraft folks), 
I would LOVE a way to pretest macros using the P3 utility, then select 
which memory that macro should live in, then blast the tested macro into 
the selected memory on the P3.


73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 06/25/2018 07:45 AM, David Box wrote:
Still the biggest problem in using the Genovation or P3 macros in 
general is the clunky keyboard interface that requires hand typing in 
all the macros directly into the P3.  I may have missed something but 
have not seen any method where you can create macros, test them, then 
transfer to the P3.  Also have not seen anything that allows me to 
save the macros so I can restore when needed.


Above issues may be due to my on neglect of keeping up, so if someone 
has a way to solve would love to hear it.


Dave K5MWR



On 6/25/2018 8:48 AM, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
As long as the keyboard appears to be a dumb keyboard it should 
work... I have a Genovation 64 Key programmable keypad working that 
fires macros into the SVGA, at the push of a single button.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

I fire all sorts of prebuilt macros into the P3, from reconfiguring 
the rig for various modes, to setting up complex split operations for 
DX, to sending my call in CW.


I program the Genovation once, (and never touch it again programming 
wise), then just add my macros to the P3 after that. Once a macro is 
added, that macro is available at a single button press from then on.


Works great in a pileup.  I press the "Split Plus" button on the 
Genovation and the P3 moves the tuned DX signal to the hard left side 
of the P3 display, sets the span of the P3 to 5 KHz., (showing me the 
5 KHz. above the DX signal), turns on VFO B for control of my my 
transmit on the K3, narrows the K3 filter to 100 Hz., (centered on 
the DX signal), centers the IF passband on my DX signal, and then 
shows the transmit cursor on the P3.


This lets me find a hole in the pileup, use the VFO B knob on the K3 
to move my transmit to that hole in the pileup, and when I hit the ID 
button it fires off my ID as fast, and as often as I press the button 
for ID.  The entire operation takes about 2 seconds to set up, and 
start calling...


73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 06/25/2018 05:29 AM, N4OI - Ken wrote:


I have a P3 and will be ordering the P3_SVGA.  I assume this will NOT
support a wireless USB keyboard, but just thought I would confirm 
before
buying one...  On the topic, any favorite keyboards I should 
consider - or

avoid?   Thanks for your input!

73



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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[Elecraft] Field Day Report

[Buck]

The 40 Mtr CW station for the mighty Rappahannock Valley ARC (K4TS 6A 
VA) achieved a new club record of 1,000 QSOs (not including dupes) by 
12:30 Eastern Sunday morning.  OPs were K4IA, K4GMH and N2FW.


The star of the show was the K3s.  It held off the phase noise from 
other Xcvrs, RFI, tuner-uppers, CQers, QRM, QRN, FakeNews, Russian 
interference, the Loch Ness monster, Thor's hammer and anything else 
that came near the wire.


Wow, what a rig.  Thank you Elecraft.

PS - The best shower of the year is the one after Field Day.

--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Knob - No End Stops/Detents

[Buck]

If you look at the knob carefully, you will probably discover it is 
cracked.  Request a replacement from Elecraft.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/6/2018 5:21 PM, Scott wrote:
It's taken me 8 years to finally "break" something.  Well it's not 
really broken it just doesn't indicate right.


The smallest AF knob (the one furthest "out" from the front panel) does 
not stop at the min and max detent stops.  It still adjusts the volume 
up and down ok but it does not indicate properly.  Additionally it will 
go "all the way around" to adjust the volume.  The interior sub receiver 
AF knob (the biggest and closest to the radio front panel) works fb.


Is there any way to fix the smallest AF knob without changing the pot or 
is that the only fix.  Thanks in advance.


Scott
AD5HS
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 in International carry-on luggage?

[Buck]

Take an an ad or manual with you so you can show them what it is.  I 
went through Reagan National, JFK and ElAl, the tightest security in the 
world, and no one said anything.  The rig, coax and antenna wire looked 
like a bomb to me.  It was in carrying-on for the trip over and packed 
in luggage on the way back.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/25/2018 8:44 AM, Gerry Hull wrote:

Hey,

Thanks for the quick replies.  Not going to worry about it.

73. Gerry W1VE

Gerry Hull, W1VE  Hancock, NH USA
Member: ARRL, YCCC, YCCCN, CW Ops
ge...@w1ve.com ph: 1-617-CW-SPARK (find me)




On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 8:15 AM, Gerry Hull <ge...@w1ve.com> wrote:


Waiting for my KX3 to arrive.  I will be doing some international travel
in the summer.  Just wondering if anyone has carried the KX3 in carry on
luggage or a backpack.  Do security officials get upset with the battery?

73, Gerry W1VE
--
Gerry Hull, W1VE  Hancock, NH USA
Member: ARRL, YCCC, YCCCN, CW Ops
ge...@w1ve.com ph: 1-617-CW-SPARK (find me)





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Re: [Elecraft] DSP vs. non-DSP portable transceivers

[Buck]

And that my friends, tells you everything you need to know about the K4.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/22/2018 11:55 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

At the Dayton (yeah, OK, Xenia) Hamvention, just before giving a demo of the 
KX2, a bystander asked me, “Why would you need DSP in a portable transceiver?” 
He went on to mention a few currently available rigs he was considering that 
didn’t have DSP, including one very new one [an “upgraded” legacy model]. I’ll 
leave the entire list to the reader’s imagination.

There are two basic reasons to use DSP:

1. As the core of the transceiver’s architecture, to reduce size and weight and 
increase flexibility

2. To provide a number of important features that have typically been seen only 
in desktop radios

Explaining #1 is always a bit of a challenge since it dives into theory. Here’s 
the short version: The receiver in both the KX2 and KX3 uses a high-level 
quadrature mixer that down-converts the RF signal to baseband (0 kHz) or to a 
low I.F. (8 kHz). The resulting I and Q signals are fed to a pair of 
high-performance audio A-to-D converters, and all demodulation is then handled 
in DSP code. This configuration has immense versatility, reduces component 
count, and provides very consistent unit-to-unit performance in parameters such 
as selectivity.

To explain #2, I prefer to just dive into the demo. There's a long list of 
functions that directly benefit those who operate portable, as well as anyone 
trying to maximize their communications capabilities.

Here are the DSP functions that I try to include in demos (given enough time), 
along with their benefits for the operator:

* Multiple Modes

The KX2 and KX3 both support SSB, CW, AM, FM, and several data modes, without 
the need for supplementary hardware. All demodulation is handled by the DSP. 
And if we add a new mode in the future, it will be available to all KX-line 
radio owners free of charge with a simple firmware upgrade.

* Bandwidth Control

The DSP bandwidth can be adjusted from 50 Hz to 4000 Hz (5000 Hz in AM mode). 
The passband can also be shifted. Rigs without DSP are limited to the passband 
of their analog filters (including crystal filters).

* Stereo Audio Effects and Dual Receive

Both rigs demodulate two independent audio channels, allowing for simulated 
stereo, which reduces listening fatigue.

Stereo is also used when DUAL RX is enabled; this allows the operator to listen 
to one signal in the left ear (VFO A) and another in the right (VFO B). This is 
essential for use with DX stations operating split, and greatly facilitates 
hunt ’n’ pounce contest operation where one receiver is parked on a station to 
be worked, while the other is used to locate the next one.

* Adjustable AGC

The KX2/KX3 include user-configurable AGC. Threshold, attack, decay, and hold 
time can all be adjusted. These are parameters that would require dozens of 
components in a non-DSP design. There’s also a short-duration pulse detector 
(AGC PLS). When this is turned on--the default--the DSP will seamlessly remove 
such pulses before they can pin your S-meter and cause a long RX recovery 
delay. (Rob Sherwood complemented us on this feature, which he found was 
missing on even high-end desktop transceivers. So, for in-house purposes, we 
call it “Sherwood mode” :)

* Noise Blanking

Many non-DSP radios lack noise blanking, or have simple blanking circuitry that 
can be easily overloaded. The KX-line DSP implements very effective blanking 
that can take out narrow pulses even at very low settings, and greatly 
attenuate irregular, high-duty cycle noise sources typical of light dimmers, 
electric fences, and wideband radar. Blanking can make the difference between a 
good QSO and not even hearing the other station.

* Noise Reduction

We often have to deal with stochastic (“white”) noise on the bands. Our 
DSP-based NR can be adjusted over a wide range to improve intelligibility, 
especially of speech signals.

* Audio Peaking Filter (APF)

CW operators often have to copy signals right at or even below the noise floor. 
At times like this, our APF can dramatically improve copy without adding 
significant ringing. APF uses a special filter shape for this purpose, with a 
30-Hz-wide peak and broad, low-delay skirts.

* Text Decode/Encode

DSP allows the KX2/KX3 to demodulate and display CW, RTTY, and PSK31/63 signals 
directly on the LCD (or in the case of the KX3, as several lines of text on the 
PX3 panadapter). These modes are also directly supported for transmit purposes, 
using a keyer paddle (a keyboard can also be used, in conjunction with KX2/3 
Utility and a notebook computer).

* Receive and Transmit EQ

8-band EQ is provided to allow the operator to tailor both receive and transmit 
audio to meet special hearing requirements, optimize for use with particular 
microphones, etc.

* CWT (CW/data tuning [auto-spot] and mini-spectral display)

The DSP sends the MCU information

Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 ATU

[Buck]

After you've trained the ATU, switch it to manual mode

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/21/2018 11:43 PM, K9MA wrote:
After "training" the ATU across part of the band and, I think, setting 
up the K3 so it should track, I notice some strange behavior.  As I tune 
to a different segment of the band, and stop, there's a delay or a 
second or so before the ATU relays switch. Other times, even though it's 
already been tuned to the new frequency, it doesn't switch until 
transmission starts which, of course, garbles the first character.  Am I 
doing something wrong, or have others notice this behavior?  I assumed 
that once the ATU has been tuned to each band segment, it would switch 
as soon as the K3 was tuned to a new segment (if necessary), so it would 
be ready to go when transmission starts.


73,

Scott K9MA


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Re: [Elecraft] First impressions of KPA1500 #113

[Buck]

If the tuner is like the KAT500, you should switch to Manual operation 
after you have trained it.  Then, it won't be allowed to try re-tuning 
with every little blip in power.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 5/10/2018 9:39 PM, Les Peters wrote:

Arrived May 5th and setup was easy. I’m noticing periodically a momentary 
higher than normal SWR indication on the SWR bar graph. And I’m still trying to 
get used to the ATU.  I’m experiencing the ATU having to make adjustments 
sometimes at the start of a transmission after the ATU has already been 
properly setup for the antenna and band. Is anyone else experiencing anything 
this or am I doing something wrong?


Les, N1SV
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 clicks and thermal design

[Craig Buck]

Make sure the transformer is on straight and secured.  Mine clicked for a
while but has since stopped.

On Sat, Apr 21, 2018, 1:35 PM ANDY DURBIN  wrote:

> I find the "clicks" my KPA500 makes as its temperature changes to be quite
> distracting.  Part of the problem is that I'm chasing a problem where the
> KPA500 changes band spuriously and the thermal clicks sound too much like
> the relays re-configuring the LPF.
>
>
> To what extend does the thermal design require conduction between the PA
> heat sink and the case metalwork?  Would the thermal management be
> compromised if very thin mylar strips were placed between the heat sink and
> the case side panel , case rear panel, or Z bracket?
>
>
> Any other proven techniques for eliminating the thermal
> expansion/contraction clicks?  (I know the manual says this is normal so no
> need to tell me that).
>
>
> 73,
>
> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Issue 12 re Astron Power Supply

[Buck]

Well, well. The meter on the front of the Astron 35 says 14.5 volts.  My 
DVM across the output says 13.5. No wonder my front panel reads 13.3 in 
receive mode.


Looks like a calibration is in order.  I didn't realize they could get 
"off."  Instructions available on the Internet.  You can adjust both the 
output and the meter.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/17/2018 2:45 PM, David Box wrote:
Like all of the "12VDC"  rigs made today the IMD on the K3 is sensitive 
to input voltage.  I would recommend you get the input up into the 
14.8VDC range as it will reduce the IMD products.  I have mine such that 
on CW key down 100W the internal K3s voltmeter reads 14.5VDC which is 
basically the reverse protection diode drop from the 14.8VDC input.  I 
am using a TGElectronics battery booster with about 4 in cable from the 
battery booster to the K3s.


Dave K5MWR



On 4/17/2018 1:36 PM, Buck wrote:
What is the minimum recommended voltage for the K3S?  Using the stock 
Elecraft 5' cable, I drop from 13.3 to 12.7 volts on key down.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/16/2018 4:51 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

On 2018-04-16 4:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

So 4 sets of power pole connectors plus 2 fuses.


Even if the power pole connectors are assembled perfectly and
mated with optimum tension, the resistance in just the four
(15 A) power pole connectors in the negative lead is equivalent
to nearly 40 feet of #12 copper wire!


The voltage at the rig, K3, now drops a volt when putting out 100
Watts.


With the equivalent of 50 feet of power cable (4 connectors plus a
10 foot physical cable), I would not be surprised.  Assuming 20A
in transmit (on 15A power poles!), a 1V drop represents 0.05 Ohms
of total circuit losses  that's pretty good for 10 feet (x2)
of cable plus eight connectors (4 in the + lead, 4 in the - lead)
and the switching device (probably a Schotkey diode).  However,
the 0.05 Ohms in the negative lead is probably ten times higher
than in a braided bonding connection directly from the K3 chassis
to the power supply chassis.

I'm surprised that only 75% went through the ground path - that
indicates the ground path has 1/3 as much resistance as the "right"
(V- lead) path.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-04-16 4:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
About 75% went thru the ground path. The 10 ga to the rig went from 
Astron to a battery switching device in case of power outage, to rig 
runner and to rig. So 4 sets of power pole connectors plus 2 fuses. 
I’m thinking of changing some of that too. The voltage at the rig, 
K3, now drops a volt when putting out 100 Watts.


Chuck Jack
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Apr 16, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Wes Stewart <wes_n...@triconet.org> 
wrote:


I would hope that "much of the current..." wasn't really much.  The 
direct conductor from the negative terminal of the power supply to 
the radio should carry the majority of the supply current,


Wes  N7WS


  On 4/15/2018 7:38 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
This thread prompted me to check out my Astron vs35m. It had a 
small black wire from -V connected to the bottom of the chassis. 
Perhaps it could be called a case or cabinet...more importantly, 
it’s what the green wire from the line cord is connected to. I 
disconnected the black wire. When it was connected, much of the 
current that would have passed thru the negative power wire from 
the power supply to the rig was shunted thru the green power cord 
wire, the ground buss bar, and other ground connections.


Chuck Jack
KE9UW



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Re: [Elecraft] Issue 12 re Astron Power Supply

[Buck]

What is the minimum recommended voltage for the K3S?  Using the stock 
Elecraft 5' cable, I drop from 13.3 to 12.7 volts on key down.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/16/2018 4:51 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

On 2018-04-16 4:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

So 4 sets of power pole connectors plus 2 fuses.


Even if the power pole connectors are assembled perfectly and
mated with optimum tension, the resistance in just the four
(15 A) power pole connectors in the negative lead is equivalent
to nearly 40 feet of #12 copper wire!


The voltage at the rig, K3, now drops a volt when putting out 100
Watts.


With the equivalent of 50 feet of power cable (4 connectors plus a
10 foot physical cable), I would not be surprised.  Assuming 20A
in transmit (on 15A power poles!), a 1V drop represents 0.05 Ohms
of total circuit losses  that's pretty good for 10 feet (x2)
of cable plus eight connectors (4 in the + lead, 4 in the - lead)
and the switching device (probably a Schotkey diode).  However,
the 0.05 Ohms in the negative lead is probably ten times higher
than in a braided bonding connection directly from the K3 chassis
to the power supply chassis.

I'm surprised that only 75% went through the ground path - that
indicates the ground path has 1/3 as much resistance as the "right"
(V- lead) path.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-04-16 4:26 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
About 75% went thru the ground path. The 10 ga to the rig went from 
Astron to a battery switching device in case of power outage, to rig 
runner and to rig. So 4 sets of power pole connectors plus 2 fuses. 
I’m thinking of changing some of that too. The voltage at the rig, K3, 
now drops a volt when putting out 100 Watts.


Chuck Jack
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On Apr 16, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Wes Stewart <wes_n...@triconet.org> wrote:

I would hope that "much of the current..." wasn't really much.  The 
direct conductor from the negative terminal of the power supply to 
the radio should carry the majority of the supply current,


Wes  N7WS


  On 4/15/2018 7:38 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
This thread prompted me to check out my Astron vs35m. It had a small 
black wire from -V connected to the bottom of the chassis. Perhaps 
it could be called a case or cabinet...more importantly, it’s what 
the green wire from the line cord is connected to. I disconnected 
the black wire. When it was connected, much of the current that 
would have passed thru the negative power wire from the power supply 
to the rig was shunted thru the green power cord wire, the ground 
buss bar, and other ground connections.


Chuck Jack
KE9UW



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Re: [Elecraft] Astron VS-35M Powwer Supply V-

[Buck]

The Kenwood TS590 runs about a foot of 12 ga connected to the power 
supply and then the rest of the power line is double 12 ga wires to the 
radio.  Could you reverse that and run double wire until right before 
the power pole and then a short single wire into the radio?  That would 
reduce the over-all resistance in the power line and still use the 
single power pole jack on the radio.


My power supply is a 35A Astron and I use the stock Elecraft-supplied 
power line.  My voltage drops at least a half volt on key down.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/11/2018 12:02 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection.
Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This
was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter
leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power
supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX.
I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those
interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as
Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires.

John KK9A



Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Ohms Law!  If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy
guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals)
and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance
of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much
less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with
single small pins) and any accessories.

Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection.  I
would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or
at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable.
Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables
further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired
path.

73,

 ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 power supply

[Buck]

It depends on what else is on your circuit.  If you  have a 15 amp 
circuit and you are already running two lamps, the rig, a computer and 
monitor, and a bunch of other accessories, you may exceed the circuit 
rating when you key down.  Add up everything that is fed off the same 
circuit (not just the outlet).


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/29/2018 9:50 AM, AB4IQ wrote:

No problems here.  I ran out of 110 outlets and had the 230VAC outlet empty and 
just changed the KPA500 to 230VAC from 120VAC and noticed no differences.

Ed.. AB4IQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes Stewart
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 7:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 power supply

Not a problem.

Wes  N7WS

On 3/28/2018 11:17 PM, Dennis Haarsager wrote:

I am ready to order a KPA500 and wonder if anyone out there has regretted 
operating one from 115-volt service.

Thanks and 73,
Dennis, at the moment CT9/N7DH



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Power Creep (again)

[Buck]

I have had the same experience running FT8.

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 3/13/2018 5:46 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi all,

I have the same problem. Anytime I change something, like band, power or a
number of other things, power starts up ridiculously low and creeps *very*
slowly up to the 100W mark. Even without changing anything the actual peak
power on a transmission can be anywhere between 80 and 120W as indicated by
my LP-100A. I am not sure if this is a problem with K3S only. I still have
my old K3 but don't use it often enough to know if this is a K3S problem
only. I understand Elecraft's policy on not relying on a fast ALC to to
control power like most of the big three do (causing IMD), but really, does
it have to be this slow? This is on a fairly new K3S which has been back to
the factory twice to get the latest upgrades to the transmitter chain. My
experience is all SSB with 100W set for the power level.

AB2TC - Knut



Wes Stewart-2 wrote

This is an old subject but with a new wrinkle.  Although I'm observing a
drift
in power on all bands (and modes) after a band or power adjustment, it's
ridiculously slow on 17-meters.  It's taking 5-10 seconds to stabilize.

Any change, such as switching to another band and back again or a minor
change
in power starts the process over.  This is particularly annoying on RTTY
AFSK
A.  (Please no lectures on how Elecraft ALC is different from other
radios, I've
been running AFSK RTTY for 10 years with K3s.)  Using the KPA500 power
graph as
an expanded proxy for the K3S output power, I'm seeing a change from about
50
watts to 500 watts after an adjustment. On CW the first dit is about 100W.

I reran the power calibration and this appeared to fix it initially but
the
issue returned.  This was particularly annoying when I was running a
digital
mode and saw that I was hitting the amp harder than desired.  I tried
adjusting
power during the transmission and it practically dropped to zero before
slowly
climbing.  Getting a precise level is difficult.

Wes  N7WS



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Re: [Elecraft] Planning the next filters

[Craig Buck]

Get the 1.8 if you work ssb.  Experiment with shifting the pass band for
maximum clarity.  Youll be amazed just how narrow it can get and still be
understandable.

On Mar 8, 2018 11:24 AM, "Chuck Chandler"  wrote:

> Right now I have the stock SSB and a 400 Hz filter in both main and sub
> rcvrs.  I would like to add some a few at a time.  My first priority is to
> add a couple to the main receiver, since it is the biggest chore to get
> to.
>
> I plan on a 250 Hz CW filter, but am going back and forth between the 2.1
> and 1.8 kHz filters.  I know that narrowing the DSP to 1.8 gives a really
> difficult to understand voice signal, while the 2.1 allows in more adjacent
> signals.  However, the roofing filters may not behave in the same manner.
> For example, the 1.8 could be set to turn on at 2.1 to take advantage of
> skirt shape.
>
> I primarily DX, and operate in some contests as well.  I know SSB contests
> really need a narrow SSB filter.
>
> Any suggestions on the matter from those who have gone this route before?
>
> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
>
> --
>
>
> ===
> Chuck Chandler
> chandler...@gmail.com
> ===
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] low audio volume and low s meter readings

[Buck]

Try running the Rx Gain calibration routine in the K3 Utility?

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 2/25/2018 6:12 PM, Gary Slagel via Elecraft wrote:

I took my k3 to Belize for ARRL DX CW and pre contest worked a few contacts all 
of which told me I had a great signal while I could barely hear them.  A couple 
I knew were KW stations and I was concerned I wasn't hearing well.  Performance 
during the contest seemed to  confirm that I was being heard better then I was 
hearing.  I had the af gain at max for most of the time.
At home I've set up my k3 next to my k3s for comparison testing.  The k3 
definitely has lower volume and the S meter is reading low.
The K3S has an ambient noise level of about s6 on 20M while the K3 S meter 
shows an ambient noise level of 0.The K3S has a comfortable af gain level of 
about noon while K3 is comfortable with af gain fully clockwise (both with rf 
gain at max)Signals seem to be stronger on the K3S.
I've been through the 'Receive:Receive signal level too low' section of the 
troubleshooting guide in the manual and all seems good (didn't try to change 
config:REF CAL but its value was very close to the default).
Would appreciate any wisdom before I resort to sending it in for a tune up.
Thanks,
Gary KT0A
  
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Re: [Elecraft] OK, odd question

[Buck]

I find it helpful to tune from a high pitch to a low pitch.  That way, I 
hear the signal coming rather than have it sneak up behind me and tune 
past the optimum tone.  That means, I have to shift the Reverse function 
depending on whether I am tuning up or down in frequency.




Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 2/14/2018 11:51 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
I for one like the tuning direction of the Elecraft rigs in CW (LSB). 
When I began ham radio using much older receivers, I liked listening 
with the BFO set to LSB.  My perception was "If the pitch goes up, I am 
tuning to a higher frequency".  Those receivers did not have very good 
frequency resolution and it helped me in tuning correctly.


I realize that is my preference, others like it the other way around. It 
is easy to set the Elecraft gear to CW reverse, and that is "sticky", so 
you only have to change it once for each band.


It is a designer's choice, so I guess Wayne agrees with me because he 
made LSB CW the default.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/14/2018 11:15 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:

Something that bugs me just a tiny wee bit.


So, for years I used a Kenwood or two, then a Yaesu or three, then a
Ten-Tec.  Much of the time on CW.  When I tuned a band, say 20M, I would
start at the bottom of the band and tune upwards in frequency.  When I 
did
this, as I approached a CW signal it would be higher-pitched.  As I 
tuned it
to zero-beat with my 500-Hz CW offset the pitch would drop until it 
matched

my 500 Hz spot.  If I tuned too far, the pitch would drop below 500, then
drop off the scale as I tuned past it.  Similar in fashion to tuning a 
USB

signal.


My Elecraft tunes similar to one other rig I have owned, an iCom 706 
MkIIG.
As I tune up the band I first hear a low-pitched CW signal, then it 
centers,

then it gets higher in pitch.  Similar to tuning an LSB signal.


This doesn't make a difference in usability, I guess it's due to the
receiver architecture.  And, yeah, I can go to "CW-R" and it works the 
way

all those other radios did.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Low sub receiver volume

[Buck]

Run the RF gain routine in the K3 utility on the sub receiver

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 2/8/2018 1:26 AM, Scott wrote:
You may want to check that NR is the same (on or off) for both 
receivers.  In my experience you may have NR off for the main and NR on 
for the sub.  That will give you a "lower volume" for the sub.  Also, 
check the attenuater is the same for both receivers too.


Scott
AD5HS

On 2/7/2018 9:32 PM, Lawrence obrowski wrote:

There have been a few posts on this subject, but none had answers.


Both my main and sub receiver are on the same antenna.

The audio volume from the sub is much lower.

The AF for the main is…… let’s say at 9 o’clock….. to get equal volume 
level from the sum… Sub AF has to be at 3-4 o’clock.


RF on both are the same.

Any suggestions? Is this normal?


Larry W0LRF



Lawrence Obrowski, C.P.E.A.

Redstone Engineered Home Systems, Inc.

303 588 7233

www.redstonehomekits.com


This communication (including any attachments) may contain privileged 
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[Elecraft] Rev B1 K3 Manuals

[Buck]

I have some original manuals now surplus to my needs.  These are 
vintage, first edition, that came with my K3 #101.  Anyone want them? 
$10 by PayPal to cover S and they can be yours.


K3 Assembly Rev B1, October 28, 2007
K3 Owner's Manual Rev B1, October 24, 2007
KRX3 Subreceiver Installation and Operation  Rev E,  July 6, 2010
KXV3 Interface Installation  Rev B, November 5, 2007

--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K3s - KPA500

[Buck]

Someone please help me out because I can't find the answer.

K3s and KPA500 - I know there is a setting so the K3 will know the amp 
is in OPER state and automatically reduce the drive to 25 or so watts. 
Then when you put the amp in STBY of OFF, the K3 will go to 100 watts.


My Amp and K3 are talking to each other for band changes etc but I can't 
get the power to automatically reduce as described.


What am I missing?  Point me to the page in the manual
--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K3 extra cable

[Buck]

Belay my previous.  I got ahead of myself.

--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K3 S Extra cable?

[Buck]

New K3S build
Installing SubRx
No 2 meter module
No Rear Panel Aux RF connector

I have an extra 5 inch TMP cable.  Is that correct?
--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] PTT switch for K3

[Buck]

Tattoo parlor foot pedals are rugged and cheap.  I had to swap out for a 
longer cord but the switch itself is rugged and not too hard to press.


https://www.amazon.com/Style-Tattoo-Pedal-Degree-Switch/dp/B077WCXW7Z/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?ie=UTF8=1515385276=8-3-spons=tattoo+switch=1

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 1/7/2018 11:03 PM, Josh wrote:

I've had a Boss FS-5U for many years. Intended for various music applications, 
sustain for digital piano, triggering sounds, etc. they're very durable and 
about $29. The chassis is an aluminum extrusion which is keyed so you can 
attach multiple together.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/FS5U

73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device


On Jan 7, 2018, at 9:57 AM, Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu> wrote:

I plan to try the SSB QSO party next weekend, and have the adapter for the K3 
and a Heil headset – but I need a remote PTT switch with a ¼ inch mono plug on 
one end and a pushbutton switch at the other.  All I have been able to find 
online are nurse call buttons – which I suppose would work but the big red 
cross on the button is off-putting, and because they are made for use in a 
hospital environment they are expensive.  Anyone suggest a source?

Thanks, as always,

Ted, KN1CBR

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[Elecraft] K3/100 for sale

[Buck]

I am thinking about upgrading to a K3S for no particular reason since 
the K3 is as close to perfect as one could want.  I wonder what the 
interest might be in my K3/100.  It is a prestige serial number 101, 
ordered sight unseen the day the rig was announced. It was back to the 
mother ship in 2013 for a full upgrade to present specs.  The rig is in 
excellent condition, no smoke, no dings, no issues.  Used every day and 
got me on Honor Roll. You're next.


Includes:
sub receiver
antenna tuner
KXV3 transverter interface with output for a panadapter and RX antenna
Power cable
Kenwood handheld microphone
Fred Cady and Elecraft Manuals

I am looking for around $2,000.What say you?

--
Buck, k4ia
EasyWayHamBooks.com
License Manuals:
Technician Class
General Class
Extra Class
Operarting Manuals:
How to Chase, Work & Confirm DX
How to Get on HF
All The Easy Way


--
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] Lulu 40% off

[Buck]

Lulu is running 40% off until Nov 30. Use code CYBER40 to pick up your 
favorite Fred Cady books.

--
Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Subreceiver low audio

[Buck]

I wish I knew "why" so I could fix it permanently.

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/26/2017 1:09 PM, Brian F. Wruble wrote:

That seems to have worked.  Thanks.

On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 1:04 PM Buck <radiok...@gmail.com 
<mailto:radiok...@gmail.com>> wrote:


I have a similar problem.  The gain in the sub-receiver will be low.  If
I rotate the RF gain control to max, the audio will come back and I can
then adjust the RF gain back down.  It is almost as if I am
kick-starting it.

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/26/2017 12:41 PM, Brian F. Wruble wrote:
 > I think this may be an intermittent, but the volume of my
sub-receiver is
 > much below that of the main receiver.  I have things set up so I
can rotate
 > the "sub" knob to move audio from main (left headphone) to sub (right
 > headphone.)  When  I move to the sub, I lose most of the audio gain.
 >
 > Any ideas?
 >
 > 73 de Brian W3BW
 >
 >         *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
 >          The Conch Republic
 > "We seceded where others failed."
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        *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
         The Conch Republic
"We seceded where others failed."






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Subreceiver low audio

[Buck]

I have a similar problem.  The gain in the sub-receiver will be low.  If 
I rotate the RF gain control to max, the audio will come back and I can 
then adjust the RF gain back down.  It is almost as if I am 
kick-starting it.


k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 11/26/2017 12:41 PM, Brian F. Wruble wrote:

I think this may be an intermittent, but the volume of my sub-receiver is
much below that of the main receiver.  I have things set up so I can rotate
the "sub" knob to move audio from main (left headphone) to sub (right
headphone.)  When  I move to the sub, I lose most of the audio gain.

Any ideas?

73 de Brian W3BW

*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
 The Conch Republic
"We seceded where others failed."
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