[Elecraft] Need a new way to do Field Day Logging

[Kenneth A, Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I have run a program called 73 on my IPAD for several years but now the 
author has died and Apple has updated the IPAD operating system and the 
program will not run. I operated entirely battery with solar charging 
and for several years was able to run the I3S, P3 and the IPAD logging 
program for the entire 24 hours and end up with a fully charged battery 
by Sunday noon.


I had to get a source of 110V AC and run my windows computer with N3FJP. 
That is a good program but what I want is a way to do field day logging 
and DUPE prevention all on solar power again. I could not find a program 
for the IPAD to do that and I don't know enough about computers to know 
if there is a computer that would do that with N3FJP.


That is my problem and I am looking for a solution.

I once again enjoyed Field Day and was impressed by all the stations all 
over the country I was able to work using only the 5 watts from the K3S 
and a 32 ft vertical antenna on the hitch of my camping trailer.


73 and thanks

W0CZ Ken C


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[Elecraft] MFJ1234 remote now completely working

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

Last night I asked the group some questions but today I figured out the answers 
so thought I should pass them along.

I had another remote setup several years ago but it only had a few MACROS and 
for that reason and all the wires I had to hook or change to use it was nothing 
but trouble and I have not used it for the last several years.

The MFJ1234 has 32 MACROS available and I have used 21 of them. Now I can walk 
away from my K3S at home without making any changes from my local use and set 
it up the way I need while at my camping spot. The feature I was asking help 
with last night was changing the MIC SEL on the K3s from rP.L b1 A5 to LI ne In 
. 
The MACRO I used for this is *0w MN053;UP053;MN255;

I can tune the antenna tuner, set power, set the mic gain and compression, work 
CW from a keyboard etc. If I need more MACROS I still have several left that I 
can use. The hams in the area say I sound good on 160 meters SSB and one even 
sent me an audio recording that sounded fine to me. I find I can hear and be 
heard as well through the remote as I can sitting in front of the K3S.

I only have two cables hooked up. The data cable to the router and the USB 
connection to the K3S and I can leave both of them connected all the time. This 
lets me listen in the middle of the night or walking on the sidewalk any time 
on my iPhone and I can even join in if I want.

73  Ken  W0CZ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] K3s and MFJ1234 for camping

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I have camped for many years and years ago set up my station for remote 
operation and had some fun. The setup was complicated and I changed computers 
and other station equipment and have not used it remotely for about the last 
five years. I bought the MFJ1234 about a month ago and now have it set up and 
working. I was able to set up 15 macros on the MFJ1234  and now have only the 
one connection to the K3s and can leave it hooked up while using both local and 
remote control. The only problem I see is I need to change the MIC SEL from 
rP.L b1 A5 to Line I n for remote control. I have not found a way to set up a 
macro to do that. That would be my first wish is if someone knows how to set up 
a macro to make that change if I forget to do it before I leave home.

The other option would be to get the K3 UTILITY program to run on the MFJ1234. 
I was able to download the program to the MFJ1234 but can not figure out how to 
install it and make it run. I have already been able to set up configuration 
files on my Windows 10 computer for both setups and think I could do the same 
thing using the RASPBERRY PI remotely. Does anyone else know if the K3 UTILITY 
will run on the RASPBERRY PI and if so how do I install it and  make it work?

This was complicated to set up but works much better than what I used several 
years ago. I can work 7 bands from 160 to 10 meters both SSB and CW using it. I 
can work CW without that last step but I would like to be able to fix my 
problem if I forget to do it before I leave the house. All I have to take with 
me is my iPhone.

Thanks for any advice.

Ken   W0CZ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - unfinished product

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

I have one feature I would like to see on the P3. I would like the demodulated 
digital text to appear on the bottom of the P3 as it does on the PX3. I use 
that feature often on my PX3. It should be able to be done similar to the PX3 
as the text is already sent from the K3 to the P3. Thank for all the other 
great features. I would hate to try to be a HF ham without the P3 and or PX3 in 
my station.
73

Ken W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 5, 2014, at 12:41 PM, Richard Solomon  wrote:
> 
> YAESU
> 
> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
> 
> 
>> On 12/5/2014 11:15 AM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
>> What company, besides Elecraft, provides firmware updates for free?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Ant 1 and Ant 2 Isolation?

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to Rich and the group

During field day I ran my KX3 with the tuner from the KXPA100 at 5 watts. I had 
my 44 ft doublet fed with 22 ft of window line on my 24 ft painters pole in the 
center with a 10 ft PVC support on each end of the doublet. I had a 33 ft MFJ 
fiberglass mast with 29 ft of wire fastened to it as a vertical about 2 ft away 
from the support for the doublet. The doublet through a W2DU balun was on 
antenna 1 and the vertical fed against the frame of my fiberglass camper was on 
antenna 2. Both antennas were pre tuned by the tuner on each band before field 
day started. I could chose either antenna instantly. Most of the field day the 
doublet was about the same as the vertical and I used it. I found the vertical 
to be the better antenna in the late evening and night on 40 meters so I used 
that. There was one weak point to my station and that was me as an operator but 
the KX3 and the 2 antennas worked great. I made 118 CW 5 watt battery search 
and pounce contacts and could have made many m
 ore if I was just a better operator. I hope my experience can be of some help. 
I have pictures on qrz.com not of field day but of the different parts of my 
station I put together for field day.

73

Ken   W0CZw0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:32 AM, Rich  wrote:
> 
> During FD we were discussing portable antenna options for next year.   We 
> were considering a 33' fiberglass pole with a veritical and a G5RV on the 
> same pole.  A 31' piece on wire running vertically down the pole and also a 
> G5RV supported by that same pole.  Then just connect them to the K3 Ant 1 and 
> 2 jacks and away we go, however should we expect to flood the Ant jack which 
> is not in use with RF due to the antennas being so close?
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Rich
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 "FAST-PLAY" field-test firmware now available (rev. 2.11)

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group. 
I updated my KX3 to this "FAST-PLAY" firmware just hours before field day 
started. I made 118 QRP battery contacts using the Fast-Play feature and had no 
troubles with the download or the firmware. I was able to leave most of the 
cables between my computer and the KX3 disconnected. I did use the KX3 to USB 
interface so the N3FJP software could log my frequency for each contact. I 
found by using FAST-PLAY on the KX3 that I did not have to touch the mouse as 
N3FJP just kept doing what I wanted and the KX3 was handy beside the computer. 
A touch of 2 buttons completed most contacts. The built in paddle was used 
about twice during the entire contest. Once again thanks Wayne as I considered 
this a wonderful improvement to the firmware.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2014, at 2:05 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Several KX3 users have now tested the new "fast-play" feature (see operating 
> details below), so we're making the firmware available for those who don't 
> mind working with a field-test release. It'll be a great feature for Field 
> Day, but you'll want to get it downloaded and tested before hand. 
> 
> The rev. 2.11 firmware can be found on this page:
> 
>   ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/KX3/firmware/beta/
> 
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[Elecraft] Camp with my KX3 and KXPA100

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

Once again I am camping at Scenic State Park in northern MN. The park does not 
have electricity and the noise level is low. I am running 20 CW with the pre 
amp at 30 db and the ATT off and have an S meter reading of S2 on background 
noise. I am able to run 60 watts CW using my 12 volt battery. I just finished 
working TN station KK4VAU. He was running a ROCK MITE at 300 mw. We had a rag 
chew Q5 but weak for 13 minutes. I also worked JA7QVI from here on CW from my 
camper. You can see pictures of my camping setup on QRZ.COM under W0CZ. There 
have been many other more ordinary CW contacts this week. I charged my battery 
this afternoon after 3 days of operating. I have operated from here other years 
but the big thing that is making this year better is the receiver of the KX3 as 
it has more gain and the APF filter.

I just wanted to report what the KX3 can do under these extreme conditions.

73

Ken  W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

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[Elecraft] Enable ANT 2 on KXPA100

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group.

I remember turning off ANT 2 on the KX3-KPA100 combination last winter. Now I 
am out camping and want to turn it back on but can't remember where I got the 
information to turn it on and off.

Thanks in advance for help.

73

Ken  W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

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Re: [Elecraft] Heatsink confusion

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Phil

The times you would need a heatsink is when running PSK31, RTTY, AM and FM. 
These are all continuous duty and make the KX3 produce heat faster than it can 
be dissipated. I tend to rag chew on PSK31 so I added the large heat sink by 
VE7FMN to my KX3. I had to run a 3 inch fan before to work PSK31 but now with 
that heat sink I do not need the fan. I did use Radio Shack Heat Sink Compound 
276-255 under the two final transistors and under the new heat sink. I don't 
know if it is needed but after 35 years of doing that kind of work I consider 
that to be standard procedure.

I never had any problem running CW or SSB with the KX3 causing overheating 
although I understand if you place the KX3 in bright sun lite it will overheat 
even in receive mode. That is because the black color absorbs sunlight heat. I 
have had other equipment such as handy talkies get too hot under the same 
sunlight conditions. 

I hope this information helps. If you work only SSB and CW don't worry about 
it. if you work a continuous duty mode I think VE7FMN has the best heat sink 
and he sure worked well with me as I do not belong to Pay Pall so he had to 
accept a money order. We exchanged several E-Mails and as I said he was great 
to do business with me.

73

Ken W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On May 21, 2014, at 11:39 AM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> When do you need the heatsink?  Is this primarily for DATA modes?
> 
> I use my KX3 at 10 watts when in the shack and I use it portable at 5 watts 
> or 10 watts when I carry along my external Li battery packs.  
> 
> I have never noticed any overheating and I believe that it is because I don't 
> do any DATA modes at all.  About 99 percent of my portable work is CW only -- 
> and usually not very many ragchews thus briefer QSOs.
> 
> So, is this product primarily for DATA mode users?  
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 21, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Howard Hoyt  wrote:
>> 
>> Doug Ellmore/NA1DX wrote:
>> 
 I received my PAE-Kx31 heatsink from Fred VE7FMN (fsme...@telus.net)
>> 
>> Fred and I haven't formed a joint partnership yet, so you have a heatsink 
>> from one or the other of us!  lolol
>> 
>> Both do the job vis-a-vis JT65 with differing attributes otherwise.
>> 
>> Cheers!
>> 
>> Howie - WA4PSC
>> www.proaudioeng.com
>> mfgr of the PAE-Kx31 Heatsink Kit
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 adding rf protection diodes question

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Joe.

I think you could use the 1n148 diodes and they should be OK across the input 
of the Elecraft P3. The problem is from larger static voltages that could 
destroy the solid state devices in the P3 but with the two diodes back to back 
the static voltages should be held to 0.6 volts and that low voltage should not 
cause any failure. The 0.6 volts may even be better than the 0.3 volt of the 
1N34A as there will be less chance of inter mod distortion.

73 and good luck finding your noise.

Ken  W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On May 19, 2014, at 10:31 AM, Sam Morgan  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> apples and oranges perhaps?
> I think you answered the question as if I was asking about the K3's 
> input...where as I was asking about the *P3* input which had no gas discharge 
> protection.
> 
> Perhaps I should have mentioned I was speaking of using a standalone P3 for 
> the purpose of chasing rfi, as mentioned in a previous thread:
> 
> [Elecraft] P3 as a portable RFI bandscope?
> by Jim Miller Sat, 17 May 2014 16:48:07 -0700
> 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-as-a-portable-RFI-bandscope-tt7589211.html
> 
> 
>> On 5/19/2014 9:20 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>> 
>> On 2014-05-19 9:38 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:
>> > It was mentioned to put a couple of diodes across the P3's input to
>> > protect it.
>> 
>> Don't!  Back to back diodes will degrade the strong signal handling
>> of the K3 and the receive inputs already include protection including
>> gas discharge and a signal level detector that disconnects the input
>> if the level becomes too high.
>> 
>> 73,
>>... Joe, W4TV
>> 
>>> On 2014-05-19 9:38 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:
>>> It was mentioned to put a couple of diodes across the P3's input to
>>> protect it. Do the diodes need to be 1n34a's or would 1n4148's be ok for
>>> that application?
> 
> 
> -- 
> GB & 73
> K5OAI
> Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Parts in North Dakota

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

 Gregory

You are right Thief River Falls, MN is only 130 miles from me but minimum 
orders and shipping charges still apply and are high. Sometimes like my last 
project they will sell 10,000 for a cheap price but won't sell one at any 
price. As I said home brewing is expensive and frustrating.

73

Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On May 12, 2014, at 12:19 PM, Gregory Beat  wrote:
> 
> I hear this complaint often, from new residents of the north coast, but I 
> have to laugh.
> 
> Digi-Key in Thief River Falls, MN is not that far from Fargo.
> In fact, due to UPS and USPS routing changes in past few years --- 
> ALL of those electronic parts shipments are routed through Fargo, ND !!
> 
> Something to consider, next time you see those postings.
> 
> w9gb
> 
> Sent from iPad Air
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[Elecraft] HP Laptop Audio Jack layout

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

MY NEW 17 INCH HP LAPTOP AUDIO JACK

TIP IS RIGHT CHANNEL SPKR
RING 1 IS LEFT CHANNEL SPKR
RING 2 IS GROUND
SLEVE IS HOT MIC

This has been a long week. Last week my 17 inch Toshiba lap top started random 
but serious failures. I reloaded it several times and even bought a new copy of 
Windows 8.1 but it failed again. I bought a new low priced 17 inch HP laptop 
from Best Buy, now have it fully loaded and so far it has been reliable. This 
morning I got the AF/MIC adaptor I home brewed to work. It is wired the same as 
the APPLE IPAD so the tip and first ring are speaker audio. The second ring is 
ground and the sleeve is the MICROPHONE hot lead. I had to home brew this as I 
could not find an adaptor that would fit my station layout. Parts were a 
problem to get out here in North Dakota so I ended up with $25 in parts and 
because I thought the adaptor was wired in the more sensible order of 
tip-ring-ring-gound I ended up reworking it many times. Again at least on my HP 
Laptop it is Tip and 1st ring for the speakers, second ring is ground and the 
sleeve is the hot side of the mic.

I hope this information helps someone else avoid the problems I had..

Ken   W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On May 5, 2014, at 2:01 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
> 
> Yes, it can be a bit tricky since the HP laptop I have is *not* wired the way 
> the 4-conductor iPhone mic jack is wired, but instead is wired as shown here 
> http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&dlc=en&docname=c01633145&lc=en&product=4033829&tmp_track_link=ot_search
> 
> Another approach is to use a usb sound card, like the Griffin iMic.
> 
> Phil w7ox
> 
>> On 5/5/14, 11:40 AM, tom armour wrote:
>> You probably want this 
>> adapter:http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12970495
>> But it is hard to tell without knowing what type of new computer you got.
>> Tom - wa4ta
>> 
>>> From: w...@i29.net
>>> Date: Mon, 5 May 2014 13:14:52 -0500
>>> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] TIP, RING,RING, Sleeve plug
>>> 
>>> Hi to the group
>>> 
>>> I had my computer go bad and replaced it this week end. I have everything 
>>> working except my old computer had separate AF and MIC jacks. My new 
>>> computer has a combined AF/MIC jack. I need to find that kind of plug so I 
>>> can build an adaptor but I don't even know what it is called and where to 
>>> get one. I would hope it is something Radio Shack sells as that is the only 
>>> place I can get parts without paying big shipping charges.
>>> 
>>> 73 and thanks for your help.
>>> 
>>> Ken  W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - how can I measure the kx3 pa temp while connected to the KXPA100 ?

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Jeff

I use the KX3 OSC*##C to monitor the temperature of the KX3 and the PAx ##C to 
monitor the temperature of the KXPA100. That worked for me while I was running 
PSK31 and RTTY as W1AW/0 for North Dakota. I have ordered the extra heat sink 
for my KX3 as I think it runs too hot in RTTY and PSK31 but it is just fine on 
CW and SSB.

I hope this idea works for you.

73

Ken W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net



Sent from my iPad

> On May 5, 2014, at 7:10 PM, "Jeff Herr"  wrote:
> 
> how can I measure the kx3 pa temp while connected to the KXPA100 ?
> 
> Did I miss something in the programming ref?
> 
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[Elecraft] TIP, RING,RING, Sleeve plug

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I had my computer go bad and replaced it this week end. I have everything 
working except my old computer had separate AF and MIC jacks. My new computer 
has a combined AF/MIC jack. I need to find that kind of plug so I can build an 
adaptor but I don't even know what it is called and where to get one. I would 
hope it is something Radio Shack sells as that is the only place I can get 
parts without paying big shipping charges.

73 and thanks for your help.

Ken  W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

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Re: [Elecraft] Field day and Fldigi

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I want to thank the group for coming through so I can use FLDIGI for FIELD DAY. 
I built the recommended converter to use the special 1600 hz signal from FLDIGI 
to key my KX3. It sounds good to me and seems to be reliable. Once again thank 
you and I feel this will be a great improvement to my contesting experience. 

73 and hope to work you on FD.

Ken  W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 24, 2014, at 1:55 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen  wrote:
> 
> Hi to the group
> 
> It is raining in North Dakota so I am spending a day in the shack and 
> installed FLDIGI on my Windows lap top. I want to use it for Field Day and 
> some contests. 
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[Elecraft] A2 to CW KEY for FLDIGI

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group.

I have given up on getting the software for FLDIGI to work so I can read the 
frequency of the KX3 and still send KY commands to the KX3. I can't find any 
place to report my problem and I have spent hours searching on the internet. 
They have an option that puts out a keyed audio tone from the computer and it 
is supposed to work up to 200 words per minute. They  recommend a full wave 
keying circuit but I have not been able to find that either. Does anyone know 
about that circuit and be able to share it with me? I think I could then use 
HIMLIB to report the frequency of the KX3 and that keying circuit and option to 
key the KX3.

Thanks for any help. I am still looking forward to using FLDIGI and the KX3 for 
field day.

73

Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net 

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[Elecraft] Field day and Fldigi

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

It is raining in North Dakota so I am spending a day in the shack and installed 
FLDIGI on my Windows lap top. I want to use it for Field Day and some contests. 
Under CONFIG/RIG CONTROL/RIG/HAMLIB I was able to choose K3/KX3 and the program 
seems to do everything I would want to participate in a contest as long as I 
use RTTY or PSK31. I next looked at doing CW and have a big problem. I can 
program  on an F KEY but using Hamlib this will not 
get passed on to the KX3. If I set up RIGCAT I can send the text to the KX3 
with the F KEY but than the Fldigi FREQUENCY feature does not work. I am 
looking for a way to set up FLDIGI to have both the FREQUENCY feature and be 
able to use an F KEY to send "ky TEST;" to the KX3 using the CW mode.

Thanks for any help

73

Ken  W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

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[Elecraft] KX3 and KXPA100 in high duty cycle use

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I was in the W1AW/0 event from North Dakota and the NDQP event for about 12 
operating hours over the last 4 days. My modes were RTTY at 80 watts and PSK31 
at 30 watts. I quickly learned when I was getting ready that these modes caused 
the equipment to heat up too much. I found two 4 inch 12 volt muffin fans in my 
junk box and wired them in series to slow them down. One was placed to blow on 
the KX3 and the other on the KXPA100. The contest style operation stayed cool 
and I might have been able to do it without the fans if I had been careful. 
Several stations wanted to rag chew and one contact went on for over an hour. 
The OSC* peaked out at  42C and the PAI peaked out at at about 40C under these 
extreme conditions. Every other rig I ever used had a fan to operate under 
these conditions so I think it is reasonable the KX3 and KXPA100 need the fan 
too.  I felt the KX3 and KXPA100 were rugged and reliable under these extreme 
conditions. Other people were concerned about the oper
 ation under these conditions earlier on this Elecraft reflector so I am 
sharing my observations.

I worked 170 stations as W1AW/0 and 27 as W0CZ in the NDQP.

I hope this information helps someone else get on PSK31 or RTTY.

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[Elecraft] Getting KX3 ready for Digital modes

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I hope to take part in the NDQP next week end using RTTY and PSK31.

I have an IMD METER by KK7UQ and the first thing I found was the K3 had an IMD 
of 29 to 30 at all power levels when set up properly. The KX3-KPA100 had an IMD 
of 34 at all power levels when set up properly.

I tried a PSK31 QSO and I am a rag chewer so my transmissions were a bit long. 
I was using 25 watts and both the KPA100 and the KX3 OSC got quite warm. I felt 
I was having to chase the other station with my DIGIPAN software but of course 
it could have been the other guy drifting. I decided to do the KX3 custom VFO 
TC procedure. I had the best in test equipment 14 years ago but since I retired 
I have to use what I can find. My K3 has the KTCX03-1 TCXO option. I calibrated 
the KX3 against the 15 meter WWV station. I tuned the K3 to 50.0 mhz and turned 
the power down to minimum. I then put a brick on the key and noticed both 
temperatures stayed constant and low. I did not start using the K3 to do the 
procedure for an hour so it should have been stable on the dummy load.

I then followed the KX3 custom VFO TC rev A9 procedure with the refrigerator 
and the hair dryer using the K3 for the reference signal. I again calibrated it 
against the 15 mhz WWV. The KX3 is now stable as far as I can tell when 
changing the temperature of the KX3 and checking zero beat against the 15 mhz 
WWV.

I tried another digipan QSO at 30 watts and it went OK but I was concerned 
about the temperature of the OSC and PA. I turned the power all the way down to 
11 watts but the temperatures still kept increasing. I found two 12 volt 4 inch 
muffin fans in my junk pile and wired them in series to the 12 volt supply to 
run quieter. One blows on the heat sink of the KPA100 and the other on the back 
of the KX3. Now I will describe the tests I ran not because I operate this way 
but to learn if I had a good cure. I ran 100 watts CW key down for 5 minutes 
and at the very end I got a PA fault on the KX3 but not on the KXPA100 utility. 
I let it cool down again and ran it 6 minutes at 95 watts with the PA peaking 
at 42C and the OSC peaking at 42C. Next I ran a PSK31 signal at 50 watts for 7 
minutes and again the PA peaked at 42C and the OSC peaked at 42C. Now I feel 
PSK31 at my normal 30 watts should not be a problem for either drift or heat.

By the way I could not cause any problem at 100 watts of CW no matter how long 
I ran my test before I made the above changes so the digital modes even at low 
power are much more stressful to the KX3 and KPA100 than CW.

I hope my experiences are helpful to some one else. It would have been fun to 
have the good equipment I had at AT&T so I could have documented my results 
better but I still know that I made an easily observable improvement.

I hope to work some of you on the NDQP using the digital modes the 4-19-14 
18:00 to 4-20-14 18:00. I won't be on a lot but I do hope to work it for 
several hours.

73 and hope this information can be of help

Ken W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net

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[Elecraft] FSKD and PSKD Mark Frequency

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I think I lowered the FSKD MARK to 915 hz and PSKD FC to 1000 hz when I set up 
my KX3. Now I would like to reset them to the way the KX3 came. How do I do it? 
if I hold down PITCH and turn the KEYER/MIC knob I hear clicks but the 
frequency does not change. Is my memory bad or am I missing a step.

As always once again thanks for your help.

73

Ken  W0CZ   w0cz at i29 dot net 

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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Don and the group

Thank you Don for the information on the PowerWerx cable.  I did not know it 
existed and am sure a year ago when I bought a new USB cable form my Wouxun 
that they did not have it. The new USB cable did not work just as the original 
did not work. Thanks again for the updated information.

73

Ken W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 28, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> I just received the WXUSB cable from PowerWerx.  I confirmed that there is 
> some electronics between pins 2 and 3 of the RS-232 connector and the plugs.
> The easy answer is to just order the serial cable and use whatever USB to 
> Serial adapter you may have that works.
> 
> Thanks Eric for tolerating this OT subject.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 3/28/2014 9:19 AM, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:
>> Hi Don and the group
>> 
>> Could you give us the information on which wires of the Wouxun cable go to 
>> which pins on the DB9 connector so I can use the USB adaptor for my K3 to 
>> program my hand held. I have only 3 computers all using Windows 8.1 and so 
>> far a work around but haven't used it for a month so don't know if it is 
>> working today or next time I need it. Please respond here on the reflector 
>> as I know other people need this information just as I have for almost 2 
>> years. If possible it would be nice to use the KX3 USB adaptor also.
>> 
>> Thank you and I know your answer will be appreciated.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Don and the group

Could you give us the information on which wires of the Wouxun cable go to 
which pins on the DB9 connector so I can use the USB adaptor for my K3 to 
program my hand held. I have only 3 computers all using Windows 8.1 and so far 
a work around but haven't used it for a month so don't know if it is working 
today or next time I need it. Please respond here on the reflector as I know 
other people need this information just as I have for almost 2 years. If 
possible it would be nice to use the KX3 USB adaptor also.

Thank you and I know your answer will be appreciated.

73

Ken W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 28, 2014, at 1:56 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> That "explanation" dances all around the real world situation.  The Chinese 
> have been making cheap counterfeit Prolific and FTDI chips. Both Prolific and 
> FTDI have produced drivers which detect those counterfeit chips to protect 
> their intellectual property.
> While the counterfeit chips may work fine when used under Windows XP, they 
> will not work with the newer Windows 7 or 8 drivers.
> 
> Yes, there are "workarounds" - turn off Windows updates and load the older 
> drivers which do not have the detection algorithms.  I would prefer not to do 
> that, and I have been burned several times with the Chinese counterfeit 
> transistors and ICs.  I ordered what was supposed to be 2N5739 transistors 
> which are no longer available from reliable manufacturers.  I had to throw 
> all 10 of them into the trash because they did not work above the audio 
> range.  The SSM2165 used on the K2 KSB2 board is an obsolete part, but is 
> advertized from Chinese vendors - unfortunately, that chip does not work, so 
> it is "buyer beware".  If you buy counterfeit goods, it is just like getting 
> a counterfeit $100 bill, it is worthless.  Unfortunately, there are vendors 
> who are listing 'workarounds' in order to sell their counterfeit products 
> rather than 'raising hell' to stop this proliferation of counterfeit devices.
> 
> I cut the USB end off the USB to Wouxun adapter that had the counterfeit chip 
> in it and will be connecting it to a DB9 connector.  I can then connect it to 
> either a real serial port or to a good USB to serial adapter.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 3/28/2014 1:11 AM, WA7SPY wrote:
>> Here is a very good explanation about USB to serial port converters. ( see 
>> below) You pay a higher price but the recommended one works with my Windows 
>> 7 PC. I have had no problems connecting older RS232 equipment to my Windows 
>> 7 PC. It works like a champ.
>> I have no interest in the US Converters but there products work well!
>> http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=62
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 27, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> I have had an experience with the Chinese "fake" Prolific USB to serial 
>>> chips.  A Wouxun VHF/UHF handeld would not work with my Win7 computer 
>>> because the Prolific drivers identified the chip as a fake Chinese 
>>> knockoff.  I tried the solutions in the web as well as the older Prolific 
>>> drivers with no great success.  I even tried the Linux solutions and was 
>>> not able to program the handheld (I am not a Linux guru, but I followed the 
>>> instructions).  Simply, it did not work, and I am not willing  to keep a 
>>> Windows XP computer going just for these Chinese fake chips.  I bought the 
>>> programming cable in good faith, but that faith has been destroyed by the 
>>> Chinese fake chips.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Panadaptor for the KX3

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Sorry my fat fingers messed this up but the content of my reply is below.
73
Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 13, 2014, at 1:43 PM, "w...@i29.net"  wrote:
> 
> Hi Pete
> 
> I have been using ROCKY as a panadapter on my KX3 along with the iMic stereo 
> USB sound adaptor. I find they help during a contest and in finding QSOs on a 
> dead band. I recently added the NaP3 software to my station. ROCKY and NaP3 
> serve two different purposes in my station but the one advantage to ROCKY is 
> it keeps the serial connection free to use with the N3FJP logging program 
> during a contest. The NaP3 software allows many good things to happen such as 
> frequency display on the computer screen, Clicking the mouse to jump to the 
> frequency of a displayed signal, Copy RTTY, PSK or CW to a box on the screen, 
> Program 16 F keys to control or send messages to the KX3, turn on the SUB 
> receiver and let you listen to the SUB receiver on your computer sound card. 
> Both these programs are free and they can both be on the computer but can not 
> run at the same time. The only caution I have with either program is the 
> sound card must support stereo and the 16 bit, 48 khz 2 channel option m
 ust be selected for that sound card in the operating system.
> 
> 73 and good luck. I have overcome several problems the hard way so if you 
> need help I will share what I know or tell you I have never tried that!!!
> 
> Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 13, 2014, at 5:43 AM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone tried using Rocky (VE3NEA, freeware) with the I/Q output from a 
>> KX3, for a $0 panadaptor?  I'm stimulated to ask this by the panadaptor 
>> article in the current QST, which strikes me as a ludicrous example of doing 
>> things the hard way.
>> 
>> -- 
>> 73, Pete N4ZR
>> Check out the Reverse Beacon Network at
>> http://reversebeacon.net,
>> blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com.
>> For spots, please go to your favorite
>> ARC V6 or VE7CC DX cluster node.
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 / NaP3 Display Images

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Jim

You should check your AUDIO CARD
Right click on the speaker icon
Left click Recording devices
Left click on the Device you are using to for the NNaP3
Left click PROPERTIES
Left click Advanced
Choose 2 tone 16 bit at the highest rate of your SOUND CARD Mine is 48000
Check Allow applications to take control of the device
Check Give exclusive mode applications priority

Do the DSP Calibrate test with a strong signal.

I hope that fixes it for you as it sure works well for me.

73

Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 5, 2014, at 3:35 PM, Jim Bennett  wrote:
> 
> Over the course of the past several weeks I've been messing around getting my 
> KX3 to work with the free panadapter display program NaP3. I enjoy using the 
> P3 with my K3 and wanted something similar for the KX3. NaP3 seems to fit 
> that wish pretty well, and it's free!
> 
> However, there is one issue that I am not able to resolve, and I'm not the 
> only one seeing it. At least two other KX3 owners that I know about have 
> experienced this issue and I'm wondering if there is a fix, or is it just the 
> way it is. Also, what causes it - KX3 design or something out of whack in 
> NaP3? Here's what the issue is:
> 
> When I look at the Panadapter view of a band segment, there are almost always 
> TWO places where a signal is seen. One is usually a tad stronger (peaking 
> higher) than the other. As I turn the dial on the KX3, they move in opposite 
> directions. Only ONE is the "real" signal - the other is a mirror. It isn't a 
> huge problem, but does cause me to tune to dead space if I've selected the 
> wrong one. :-(
> 
> Is there a way to eliminate this mirror image situation? 
> 
> Tnx, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] NaP3 MACROS

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I had a nice response to my question from Matt VK2RQ. We exchanged information 
for a couple of days and got NaP3 working the way I wanted. We think the 
problem was the edit memory would get messed up and not copy to the config file 
properly when the program was shut down. If we edit one command even if it is 
long and immediately close the EDIT MACROS then the N3P3 program the macro is 
saved properly to the config file. I was able to save this long macro 
KY :;KY now is the time ;KY for all good men ;KY to come to the aid ;KY of 
their country;
by using the above procedure and it works just fine. I have also saved a macro 
SWT16; to simulate pressing the XMIT button and a macro SWT11;SWT19; to send 
the contents of memory one.

I plan to use these macros in contests as similar macros in the KX3 Utility 
have worked well for me.

I found I had to go into the Windows 8.1 record devices for the iMic USB sound 
device and set it for 2 channel 16 bit 48000hz (DVD Quality) to get the program 
to work properly. 

Having NaP3 working is almost like getting a new fancy radio as it adds several 
great features to the KX3 such as the panadapter with mouse frequency control, 
a SUB RECEIVER that will play at the same time as the regular receiver, Data 
Text and an analog S meter that is quite pleasing.

I am looking forward to using NaP3 as it solves several things that I have 
wanted to do for years.

73 and I do recommend this program although I am sure there are other programs 
that do similar things.

KEN  W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net
Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 2, 2014, at 7:34 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen  wrote:
> 
> Hi to the group
> 
> I set up my KX3, iMic, and a Windows 8.1 laptop this week end with the NaP3 
> panadaptor program. Everything works well and I am impressed with all the 
> features this program adds to the KX3. I do have one problem though. I want 
> to set up some MACROS to send messages on CW or RTTY using the KX3. I think I 
> had it working at one point this afternoon but I can't get it to work again. 
> Does anyone have any macros set up that will send a message via CW or RTTY to 
> the KX3 and be willing to share them with me.
> 
> Thanks guys. You have come through several times for me and I appreciate that.
> 
> 73
> 
> Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] NaP3 MACROS

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I set up my KX3, iMic, and a Windows 8.1 laptop this week end with the NaP3 
panadaptor program. Everything works well and I am impressed with all the 
features this program adds to the KX3. I do have one problem though. I want to 
set up some MACROS to send messages on CW or RTTY using the KX3. I think I had 
it working at one point this afternoon but I can't get it to work again. Does 
anyone have any macros set up that will send a message via CW or RTTY to the 
KX3 and be willing to share them with me.

Thanks guys. You have come through several times for me and I appreciate that.

73

Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

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Re: [Elecraft] OT OS gotchas

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi David and the group

I have run XP, Windows 7, Windows 8 and now Windows 8.1 since each system came 
out. There were some growing pains moving from from Windows XP to Windows 7 and 
again to Windows 8 as the procedures changed from what we were used to. I had 
to upgrade MIXW but now Windows 8 and 8.1 have been out long enough that most 
programs are all set for it. I have found the Windows 8.1 and 8 to be much more 
stable. I can not remember the last time I had a blue screen of death.  I have 
been in the NAQP contest this week end with ROCKY 1.7, MIXW, MMTTY and N3FJP 
all running at the same time hooked to my KX3/KXPA100 with no problems of any 
kind. I remember my first contest on RTTY 8 years ago and this is sure a great 
improvement. I am also volunteering for AARP tax help and have done 35 tax 
returns so far this year plus the classes on line to prepare for the season all 
with no problems.

My advice is pick the system you want and learn how to use it. Windows 7, 8 and 
8.1 are all well supported. XP works well but will not be supported which means 
software in the future may not run on it and of course virus protection will no 
longer be updated.

73

Ken W0CZ w0cz at i29 dot net

My feeling is that Windows 7 is one of the best 

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 22, 2014, at 1:17 PM, David Christ  wrote:
> 
> I recall posts on this list about issues with Win 8
> 
> What do I have to watch out for if I switch to Win 8?  Will all the Elecraft 
> programs work?  Any of the common digital or logging programs not work?  Any 
> special things I need to do to make them work?  Or should I downgrade it to 
> Win 7?
> 
> I would gladly search the archive but what keywords would dig this 
> information out?  Any good sites and lists for these questions?
> 
> David K0LUM
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 Gold-plated contacts ?

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I think I have an easy solution to the problem indicated here. The first 
problem may be the hinges of the paddles. I took a fine wire out of an audio 
cable and put one end under the screw on each paddle. I looped and soldered 
this wire to the ground terminal of the connector to the KX3. The paddles do 
not move enough to cause the wire to break. I use the paddles as a side swiper 
key any time I need a hand key and after the straight key nite on New Years the 
paddle I was using got intermittent. A small shot of WD40 fixed it and I have 
used it quite a bit since then. You may want to try the WD40 first and maybe 
that is all the hinges need too but I like the positive ground the wire 
provides.

I sure do like my KX3 and KXPA100 so expect to have lots of fun camping this 
summer.

73

Ken W0CZ  w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 7, 2014, at 4:28 AM, Heinz Baertschi  
> wrote:
> 
> Mark Petiford wrote
>> RE:  "Has anyone tried to galvanically gold-plate the KXPD3 contact screws
>> and
>> posts?"
>> 
>> Heinz,
>> In an attempt to solve the "missing dit" problem?
>> Mark
>> KE6BB
> 
> Not at all, I never noticed the so-called dit Problem.
> Using an early (upgraded) and a late KXPD3, both with the light(est) spring.
> 
> Both paddles functioned flawless last year on over 100 SOTA expeditions
> (more than 6000 QSOs).
> The contacts become intermittent during the winter months (temp around 0C,
> sometimes foggy).
> Dry cleaning the contacts did always help for some time.
> 
> The KXPD3 has become my paddle of choice for SOTA through it's reliability
> (simplicity, robustness) and it's suitability for use also on higher keying
> Speeds.
> 
> That is why I am exploring an improvement.
> 
> Heinz HB9BCB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPD3-Gold-plated-contacts-tp7583792p7583817.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3+KXPA100 operation improved when running from a 12-V battery

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group.

I hope the group wasn't thinking my test conditions were my recommendations for 
running the KX3-KXPA100 station. I purposely set it up under marginal 
conditions to test the new software and originally to test the old software. 
The battery is over 4 years old and I may replace it this spring. There were 3 
fuses in the circuit and the KX3 was getting it's power from the duel socket on 
the KXPA100. The old battery was several tenths of a volt lower than my newer 
battery although it definitely does not have a dead cell. I could solve much of 
the problem with the original software just by running the KX3 directly off the 
battery. A new battery would also help. My goal when camping is 6 db over 5 
watts which is 20 watts or 10 db over 5 watts which is 50 watts. I ran at 100 
watts on my dummy load to make the entire test as tough as possible. I run 
almost 100% CW when I am camping as even low power RTTY or PSK31 draws much 
more total currant from the battery then CW in an hour of operating. 

Fargo has two 50 KW broadcast stations in the area so I was not surprised when 
I tuned in a 5 KW station that was 230 miles from me that I had the 
interference problem with the 160 position. I was pleased that the NOR position 
still worked but having said that I can see myself using the 160 position when 
I camp in the north wood of Minnesota.

Once again I appreciate these two new options and they are meant to be used 
with reasonable care.

73

Ken W0CZ w...@i29.net


Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 14, 2014, at 9:36 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the report, Ken.
> 
> At lower voltages, especially in voice modes, you should consider dialing 
> back power output to preserve the amplifier's "headroom." For example, if the 
> supply is dipping below 11 V, I back the power down to about 50 W, just to be 
> safe. This is only a 3-dB drop in power but it'll be a little easier on the 
> gear. For higher/lower voltages, adjust accordingly.
> 
> Of course the amp and radio will protect themselves if, due to reduced 
> voltage, you exceed a threshold of current drain, temperature, or other 
> parameters.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
>> On Jan 14, 2014, at 6:11 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen  wrote:
>> 
>> I brought up my old deep discharge battery and am extremely please with the 
>> way it now works with the KX3 and the KXPA100. The KX3 was going down to 
>> 10.7 volts at 100 watts with about .9 volts of cable voltage loss. My 
>> digital meter was going down to 11.6 volts at the battery…
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3+KXPA100 operation improved when running from a 12-V battery

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Wayne and the group

Thank you for the new KX3 experimental firmware. I downloaded it tonight and 
quickly decided in my city environment the NOR setting was better for listening 
to weak stations on the low end of the broadcast band as I was getting some 
type of interference from higher in the band with the 160 meter selection. I am 
glad we have the option to set it either way and I am still pleased as always 
with the ability to listen to the broadcast band for news when I am camping.

I brought up my old deep discharge battery and am extremely please with the way 
it now works with the KX3 and the KXPA100. The KX3 was going down to 10.7 volts 
at 100 watts with about .9 volts of cable voltage loss. My digital meter was 
going down to 11.6 volts at the battery and after I transmitted a while the 
voltage started going back up which is typical of the discharge of a deep cycle 
battery. I maintained batteries for 35 years for the phone company and every 
year we ran a similar test on those big batteries. The KX3 and the KPA100 both 
were cool to the touch after a test on the dummy load sending CW for a long 
time. I know I am going to have a lot of nice contacts from my camper this 
summer. I feel it works as well or better than my K2/100 did and I used that in 
the camper for 12 years.

Thanks again for the new firmware and hope to work many of you from my camper 
this summer.

73

Ken W0CZ  w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 11, 2014, at 3:17 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> If you're powering the KX3 and a KXPA100 from the same large 12-V battery, 
> and you've had a problem with the KX3 dropping power from QRO levels to 5 W, 
> please contact me directly. I have an experimental firmware fix for this.
> 
> This only applies if:
> 
> - the KX3 is connected to the amp via the special control cable
> 
> - MENU:PA MODE set to ON
> 
> - the power control is set higher than 10 W
> 
> In this case (with the amp in-line), there was a bug where a drop in supply 
> voltage to 11.0 V or lower would kick the KX3+amp into QRP mode (with the amp 
> bypassed). 
> 
> A key-down drop below 11 V is not unusual with a moderately depleted 12-V 
> battery running a QRO station. With the new firmware, the user can continue 
> to use the amp anyway, at some appropriate power level. Of course you 
> shouldn't try to get the full 100 W output in this case. For example, if the 
> voltage is in the 11-V range on key-down, I recommend not using more than 
> about 40-50 W. At 10 V (which isn't even safe to us with some 12-V 
> batteries), you're better off using QRP levels and setting PA MODE = OFF to 
> conserve battery power. 
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AFSK RTTY problem

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Ron and the group

I hope you got your equipment to work on RTTY yesterday but if you didn't I 
have been there and done that several times. I didn't see anyone else respond 
so I will share some of my experiences. 

The first thing on all Windows systems newer than XP, Right click SPEAKERS than 
select playback devices, then communications and make sure to check "DO 
NOTHING" This turns off the AVC functions that are used by SKYPE and other 
similar programs. This may be causing your variations in level to the ALC.

AFSK and FSKD use lower SSB on the Elecraft rigs while PSKD and DATA A use 
upper SSB. Your software must be set to match. My software was designed for 
other rigs and I must use INVERTED for AFSK or FSKD to make it work. Another 
variation I have seen to match some other rigs is TX INVERTED only. 

You should try the TEST position to see if you have the same ALC problem with 
no RF. It is possible to get RF feedback and or hum if there is a cable problem.

I have also seen software do you a favor by switching to USB or "RTTY" after 
you have set up your transceiver. Needless to say this can cause unexplained 
problems until I can figure out what happened.

I used FSKD in the contest yesterday to transmit and MixW to receive along with 
the N3FJP logging program.  I used the following commands for F1 and F2. F1 kyw 
W0CZ W0CZ ;rx;  F2 kyw 599 ND ND ;rx;  .  I also did some other F keys as 
desired. The rx; forces the transmitter to shut down right away after the 
message. I used the  function in the MixW macros but I think other 
software might have a similar method. If I use the K3 or KX3 utility than I use 
the COMMAND TESTER tab as the TERMINAL tab filters out all the commands. The 
MixW, MTTY and other programs often demodulate better than the utility for 
receiviing.

I worked 161 RTTY contacts in the contest yesterday, all hunt and pounce using 
FSKD, in about 7 hours using 10, 15, 20, 40, and 80 meters. The antenna was my 
Hy-Gain Hy-Tower with radials. The station was the KX3 and the KXPA100-AT at 
100 watts. 

Someone remarked yesterday that they had a new KX3 KXPA 100 station and they 
missed the P3 from the K3. I had the same problem and now use the iMic USB 
sound card from the I/Q jack on the KX3 and ROCKY software to give me a 
panadaptor display. It is not as nice as the P3 but it sure does work well for 
finding a contact either in a contest or for rag chewing.

One final comment the KXPA100 has done everything I have tried so far. One 
caution though is PSK31 needs to be run at 50 watts or less because on that 
mode linearity becomes extremely important. If I operated in the RUN mode 
instead of HUNT and POUNCE it would also be important to cut my power back to 
50 watts or less to prevent overheating the amplifier or the KX3.

I hope these comments and suggestions are helpful.

73 and happy hamming in 2014

Ken  W0CZ
w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 4, 2014, at 2:42 PM, Ron W3ZV  wrote:
> 
> I am trying to operate AFSK on 15m in the ARRL RU contest. I have 2 contacts 
> in the last 2 hours. I am by no means a big gun, but I am usually better than 
> this. Lineup is K3-KPA500-KAT-500. No problems on receive. Drive is set to 
> produce about 350 watts from the KPA-500. SWR is below 1.5. As far as I can 
> tell, baud rate, and shift are okay. I don’t think I am reversed. I know my 
> signal is getting out, because I get a lot of AGN AGN. What disturbs me is 
> that my ALC indication is rapidly jumping between 2 to 5 bars. This is not 
> the 4 solid and 5 flickering. Power out on the KPA500 jumps between 300 and 
> 400 watts. If anyone has a suggestion to get me back in the fray, I would be 
> most grateful.
> 
> Ron W3ZV
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] KXPA100-AT observations

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

A few days ago someone asked questions about the KXPA100-AT and at the time I 
wished for the same information. I got mine yesterday and I am looking forward 
to using it on the SKN tonight and tomorrow. I have it hidden behind the second 
monitor for my computer so my station now gets out better but it still looks 
the same.

Frequency  14.025 mhz
My power supply is set for15 Volts
The KX3 receive is   0.198 Amps
The KXPA100-AT off draws 0.001 Amps
The non transmitting but on amp draws 0.382 Amps
The amp putting out 12 watts 4.9 Amps
The KX3 set for 100 watts out 1.415 Amps
The KX3 and KXPA100-AT at 100 watts out  15.8 Amps
 Drain shown in the UTILITY   13.0 Amps 
Dropped voltage to 12.0 volts and current  15.0 Amps at 100 Watts
Drain at 12 Volts read  11.4  Amps at 100 
Watts

Please do not attack the accuracy of the measurements. My digital meter can not 
measure over 10 amps so the lower current measurements were made with it and 
the higher current measurements were read on the meter in my Alenco DM-330MV 
power supply. 

I do a lot of camping using a large battery. I feel this should be comparable 
to how my K2 and it's 100 watt amplifier performed. 

I hope this information is useful to the other hams that are interested in how 
the KXPA100-AT performs.

Ken   W0CZw...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Toggle PF1 in KX3

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi from Ken W0CZ

I want to toggle between BW 2800 and BW 50 on my KX3. I wrote the following 
macro lines and they work from the command line of the utility but do not 
toggle when using the PF1 of the KX3.

1   BW0280;SWH12;MN110;SWT19;SWH18;SWH09;
2   BW0005;SWT12;MN110;SWT27;SWH18;SWH09;
I tried replacing  the SWH09; with MN255; but that did not work either. 

I have been using PF1 for line 1 and PF2 for line 2 but now my KXPA100 is on 
the way and I want to use PF2 as a quick way to toggle between 5 watts and 100 
watts. I suspect I will have the same problem when I try that macro.

73 and thanks for any help you can give.

Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad=
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[Elecraft] K3 and KX3 in contests

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group

I earlier wished for a report of how the K3 and KX3 compared in a contest. Here 
is my report. I have run my K3 for 6 years in many contests and usually run in 
the 5 watt QRP class. I was always impressed by how much better the K3 handled 
close in QRM and full break in than my old transceivers. The P3 was added two 
years ago and I have become dependent on it. A couple contests have been run at 
100 watts but I was always surprised I did not do much better at 100 watts than 
I do at 5. I prefer the QRP  class because it is easier to place well and I 
have taken ND section in several contests at 5 watts.

This year I bought a KX3 and now I have used it in 3 contests. I ran out of 
battery on my logging computer during Field Day but the KX3 worked fine at 5 
watts for the 8 hours I was able to operate. I ran the KX3 at 5 watts CW along 
with the N3FJP logging program for the November Sweepstakes and I felt the KX3 
handled everything as well as the K3 except I missed the P3. I had an iMic and 
the program ROCKY but was not able to get them to work together for that 
contest. This group helped me get ROCKY and the iMic to work after the contest 
was over.

This week end I entered the ARRL 160 meter contest with the KX3 at 5 watts. I 
had the N3FJP logging program, WinKeyer USB, ROCKY and MixW all running 
together on my Windows 8.1 lap top. ROCKY did a good job of helping me find 
QSOs.  The KX3 receiver selectivity and break in seemed to work as well as on 
the K3. The only thing I missed on 160 was the use of my separate receiving 
antenna. There is an antenna switch in my system that can do that but I may add 
a relay to make it easier.

The KXPA 100 will be a lot of fun for camping and rag chewing when it comes but 
the KX3 is going to see many more 5 watt QRP contests. The K3 will be used at 
home without the station being pulled apart when I go camping.

73 and I hope this report helps someone.

Ken  W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] IPad, Camera Connector, iMic & Charger

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi again from Ken W0CZ
My first problem got fixed so nice I will hope for help on this one. I have SDR 
software on my iPad and a camera connection kit to connect an iMic. This set up 
works well but of course the battery does not last long enough for field day or 
a week of camping. Is there a way to include the battery charger at the same 
time as the rest of the SDR setup? I would sure think I had it made if I could 
have something similar to the P3 to take with me when using the KX3 for camping.

Thanks for the help earlier and this would just make my day.

73

Ken W0CZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Rocky and Windows 8.1

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi to the group and thanks to Joe W4TV. I followed your advice and found the 
default settings were wrong but after I corrected them it still did not work. I 
found the gain was set no nothing and I reset the gain wide open for the iMic. 
I then booted the computer and now everything is just the way I want it. I have 
ROCKY MIXW and N3FJP all on the screen at the same time and everything seems to 
be well behaved.

Thanks again Joe I always enjoy reading your advice along with Don and some of 
the others.

73 and thanks.

Ken W0CZ


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 7, 2013, at 9:50 AM, "Joe Subich, W4TV"  wrote:
> 
> 
> > 1 Get the iMac to work with Windows 8.1
> 
> Open the Windows Sound Control Panel.
> Select the Recording tab
> double click the iMic (probably Microphone)
> Select the Advanced tab
> Change the Default Format to "2 channel, 16 bit 48000 Hz (DVD
>   Quality)" or a higher sample rate if the iMIC supports it.
> 
> Widows generally selects "1 channel" as the default for any
> USB microphone device - whether the hardware supports one or
> two channels.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 11/7/2013 10:34 AM, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:
>> Hi again from Ken W0CZ
>> 
>> Last summer I had Rocky working on my Toshiba laptop using a Griffin iMic as 
>> a stereo input for the I/Q on my KX3. I wanted to have a display similar to 
>> the P3 on my K3. It worked and I put it aside. This week end I entered the 
>> ARRL SweepSteaks and wanted to use Rocky again. I updated the computer to 
>> Windows 8.1 earlier this fall and now Rocky does not see the signal from the 
>> KX3. I thought the iMic had quit so I bought another one but now neither one 
>> works. The computer tells me the iMic is working properly in the 
>> SOUND-RECORDING-PROPERTIES screen. If I change Rocky to the SB X-FiGo and 
>> plug the KX3 in I see a display on Rocky but it is not proper because it is 
>> not in Stereo. I can get the iMic to work with the SDR program on my IPAD 
>> but the battery will not last long enough to do a contest.
>> 
>> I need to ask the group if there is one or more solutions.
>> 1 Get the iMac to work with Windows 8.1
>> 2 Recommend another stereo adapter that will work with Windows 8.1
>> 3 Come up with a way to charge the battery of the IPAD at the same time as I 
>> plug in the iMic.
>> 
>> The KX3 did a wonderful job at 5 watts on a vertical from here in ND. I 
>> worked 122 contacts, 54 sections and made 13176 points. I could have worked 
>> many more but I did not spend enough time in my chair. I thought the 
>> performance of the KX3 compared well with the K3 but I missed the P3 and 
>> felt the K3 may do slightly better but not a lot on strong close in QRM. It 
>> was sure a much better experience than I ever had with my IC746.
>> 
>> Thank you for any help with my panadapter for the KX3 project.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> Ken W0CZ
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Rocky and Windows 8.1

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi again from Ken W0CZ

Last summer I had Rocky working on my Toshiba laptop using a Griffin iMic as a 
stereo input for the I/Q on my KX3. I wanted to have a display similar to the 
P3 on my K3. It worked and I put it aside. This week end I entered the ARRL 
SweepSteaks and wanted to use Rocky again. I updated the computer to Windows 
8.1 earlier this fall and now Rocky does not see the signal from the KX3. I 
thought the iMic had quit so I bought another one but now neither one works. 
The computer tells me the iMic is working properly in the 
SOUND-RECORDING-PROPERTIES screen. If I change Rocky to the SB X-FiGo and plug 
the KX3 in I see a display on Rocky but it is not proper because it is not in 
Stereo. I can get the iMic to work with the SDR program on my IPAD but the 
battery will not last long enough to do a contest. 

I need to ask the group if there is one or more solutions.
1 Get the iMac to work with Windows 8.1
2 Recommend another stereo adapter that will work with Windows 8.1
3 Come up with a way to charge the battery of the IPAD at the same time as I 
plug in the iMic.

The KX3 did a wonderful job at 5 watts on a vertical from here in ND. I worked 
122 contacts, 54 sections and made 13176 points. I could have worked many more 
but I did not spend enough time in my chair. I thought the performance of the 
KX3 compared well with the K3 but I missed the P3 and felt the K3 may do 
slightly better but not a lot on strong close in QRM. It was sure a much better 
experience than I ever had with my IC746.

Thank you for any help with my panadapter for the KX3 project.

73

Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi from Ken
Could you have the coax from the balun and the coax from the rig reversed the 
same as my friend. If that is not the case try to get another rig and see if it 
can cause the tuner to tune. If neither rig causes it to tune than the tuner 
needs repaired. If the other rig causes the tuner to tune than look for a 
spurious output from your rig. I had this happen 40 years ago with a friends 
DSB-100 rig. It had such poor second harmonic suppression that a selective 
manual tuner showed lots of SWR because the second harmonic was reflected back 
and looked like SWR.

I hope these ideas might help.

I have a problem of my own that I might submit to the group later this week.
73
Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 3:06 PM, Monovasia  wrote:
> 
> Interesting...K3 to the amp, Amp to the tuner, coax from the baun from the 
> ladder line into Ant 1 on the tuner...same set up for my old rig...thanks for 
> the feedback though...my symptons r the same
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.
> From: Kenneth A Christiansen
> Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2013 1:12 PM
> To: George Pontiakos
> Cc: Dale Putnam; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Don
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
> 
> Hi Dale
> I ran into a similar problem a year ago with a friends LDG tuner. He moved to 
> a nursing home and other people put up the station and antenna in the attic. 
> I found they cut the coax and just pushed the two ends together. We fixed 
> that and the LDG tuner would not make a match but did try. My k2 tuner worked 
> just fine. We found his rig was connected to the antenna jack on the LDG and 
> the antenna was connected to the IN jack. I know this does not sound 
> reasonable but if it happened once it'd could have happened again.
> 
> 73 Ken W0CZ
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Nov 6, 2013, at 12:19 PM, George Pontiakos  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Hey Don….I agree on a manual tuner, I may go and get one today as I will be 
> > near HRO out here….I do not think it is the antenna….same 
> >> On Nov 6, 2013, at 10:09 AM, Dale Putnam  wrote:
> >> 
> >> One more thing, and it's just being "Murphy proofed"... is the tuner 
> >> selected to the correct antenna port?
> >> 
> >> Have a great day, 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> From: pontia...@monovasia.com
> >>> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 10:00:03 -0700
> >>> To: daleput...@hotmail.com
> >>> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
> >>> 
> >>> Well that is a good question….when keyed…the tuner obviously sees the rf 
> >>> because it starts the calibration process and shows the wattage I am 
> >>> pushing….during the entire process the SWR led's show all red, the box 
> >>> makes the normal cal noises and the stops showing all red high swr…
> >>> 
> >>> So I believe it sees the ant and I believe it sees the rf…
> >>> 
> >>> It also worked fine initially start-up ran and calibrated to 1.2/1 with 
> >>> the k3 alone and with the amp engaged…
> >>> 
> >>> Something changed….I do not think I put a mis configuration value in the 
> >>> set up when I was learning the config menus (but if there is a setting 
> >>> that could cause this condition, then perhaps I did), short of that…I am 
> >>> coming slowly to the conclusion that the tuner developed a problem….
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>>> On Nov 6, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Dale Putnam  wrote:
> >>>> 
> >>>> Just so I understand, the tuner still acts like it doesn't "see" the 
> >>>> antenna? or it acts like it doesn't "see" any rf?
> >>>> 
> >>>> Have a great day, 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
> >>>> From: pontia...@monovasia.com
> >>>> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 09:49:09 -0700
> >>>> CC: d...@w3fpr.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>>> To: daleput...@hotmail.com
> >>>> 
> >>>> Thanks Dale….I did change the coax out of the K3 to the amp…then thru 
> >>>> the other troubleshooting configurations…The tun

Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Dale
I ran into a similar problem a year ago with a friends LDG tuner. He moved to a 
nursing home and other people put up the station and antenna in the attic. I 
found they cut the coax and just pushed the two ends together. We fixed that 
and the LDG tuner would not make a match but did try. My k2 tuner worked just 
fine. We found his rig was connected to the antenna jack on the LDG and the 
antenna was connected to the IN jack. I know this does not sound reasonable but 
if it happened once it'd could have happened again.

73 Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 12:19 PM, George Pontiakos  wrote:
> 
> Hey Don….I agree on a manual tuner, I may go and get one today as I will be 
> near HRO out here….I do not think it is the antenna….same 
>> On Nov 6, 2013, at 10:09 AM, Dale Putnam  wrote:
>> 
>> One more thing, and it's just being "Murphy proofed"... is the tuner 
>> selected to the correct antenna port?
>> 
>> Have a great day, 
>> 
>> 
>> --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> From: pontia...@monovasia.com
>>> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 10:00:03 -0700
>>> To: daleput...@hotmail.com
>>> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; d...@w3fpr.com
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
>>> 
>>> Well that is a good question….when keyed…the tuner obviously sees the rf 
>>> because it starts the calibration process and shows the wattage I am 
>>> pushing….during the entire process the SWR led's show all red, the box 
>>> makes the normal cal noises and the stops showing all red high swr…
>>> 
>>> So I believe it sees the ant and I believe it sees the rf…
>>> 
>>> It also worked fine initially start-up ran and calibrated to 1.2/1 with the 
>>> k3 alone and with the amp engaged…
>>> 
>>> Something changed….I do not think I put a mis configuration value in the 
>>> set up when I was learning the config menus (but if there is a setting that 
>>> could cause this condition, then perhaps I did), short of that…I am coming 
>>> slowly to the conclusion that the tuner developed a problem….
>>> 
>>> 
 On Nov 6, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Dale Putnam  wrote:
 
 Just so I understand, the tuner still acts like it doesn't "see" the 
 antenna? or it acts like it doesn't "see" any rf?
 
 Have a great day, 
 
 
 --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 
 
 
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
 From: pontia...@monovasia.com
 Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 09:49:09 -0700
 CC: d...@w3fpr.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 To: daleput...@hotmail.com
 
 Thanks Dale….I did change the coax out of the K3 to the amp…then thru the 
 other troubleshooting configurations…The tuner just grinds away pinned and 
 then stays that way...
 On Nov 6, 2013, at 9:45 AM, Dale Putnam  wrote:
 
 The one piece left unchecked, (in my mind and I may have missed something 
 here) is the coax between the KX3 and the tuner.
 It sure wouldn't be the first time I got caught with a short piece of coax 
 that failed at the exact "right" time... can you spell MURPHY???
 ;-)
 
 Have a great day, 
 
 
 --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 
 
 
> From: pontia...@monovasia.com
> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2013 09:40:44 -0700
> To: d...@w3fpr.com
> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] So here is one that has me stumped...
> 
> Thank you for the responses and suggestions:
> 
> 1.) Ran the ant coax thru the balun directly to the K3- SWR 4.2/1
> 2.) Ran the ant coax thru the LDG 600 Pro bypassing the amp- high SWR
> 3.) When I hit the "tune" function on the LDG, I am getting from the 
> tuner a message "ERR_NO_RF_" blink once warning
> 
> The only thing I can think of the LDG has an internal issue, everything 
> else seems correct…I had the exact same set up on my prior rig, same coax 
> etc….worked like a charm…I am beginning to think it is the tuner…
> 
> Any other thoughts….I cannot believe I set a config by accident internal 
> within the K3 to cause this issue…
> 
> My very best to all,
> 
> George
> 
>> On Nov 6, 2013, at 5:46 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> George,
>> 
>> What happens when you transmit into a dummy load?
>> What happens if you connect the K3 directly to the tuner (remove the amp 
>> from the path of coax)?
>> 
>> If my understanding of your setup is correct, the K3 will indicate the 
>> SWR it sees into the input of the amp.
>> OTOH, the amp sees the SWR at the input to the tuner.
>> 
>> It sounds like you may have a problem with the tuner or the amp or the 
>> coax between the amp and tuner.
>> You could also have an RF feedback problem that is causing your SWR 
>> readings to be crazy.
>> Some work with an antenna analyzer may be helpful.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 11/6/

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Thanks for all the information and help

Thank-you Don W3FPR, Nick N3WG and Dick N0CE. I used your advice and ordered a 
Griffin iMac. I also ordered the iPad camera kit ic5331zm. I got a bonus going 
this way as I can use the pan-adaptor while I am camping on my iPad as well as 
at home on my Toshiba lap top.  Thanks again I am please with your help and 
consider this thread closed.

73
Ken W0CZ w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2013, at 9:24 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Ken,
> 
> Since the KX3 I/Q bandwidth is limited to something like 48kHz, you do not 
> need an exotic soundcard which will give you a 192 kHz span, most external 
> soundcards will do the job just fine.
> 
> The Creative X-Fi soundcard is available at a modest price, and will do a 192 
> kHz span should you need it, but there may be other less costly options that 
> I am not aware of.  The X-Fi can be modified with a couple of added 
> capacitors to reduce the noise level - Google for the mod information.
> 
> The biggest consideration for use with the KX3 RX I/Q output is the noise 
> level rather than the bandwidth of the soundcard.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 6/24/2013 10:11 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:
>> Hi Don
>> 
>> You answered and confirmed my suspicion. I suspect since I have a new 
>> Elecraft cable and the sound card only has the MIKE input that it is MONO. 
>> Do you know of a USB sound card that you will work? I would rather by 
>> something good that I know will work than spend money on something cheap 
>> that may not. I have got my use out of this sound card on digital ham 
>> programs.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Jun 24, 2013, at 8:51 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>>> Ken,
>>> 
>>> Are you getting a signal to the soundcard from both the I and Q channels?  
>>> What you are seeing is normal of only one channel is fed to the soundcard.
>>> 
>>> In other words, check your cables.  Plug in the left channel only into the 
>>> soundcard and see if you have a signal present, then do the same with the 
>>> right channel.
>>> 
>>> It may be a cabling problem, or your sound adapter may have only mono 
>>> input.  Many external soundcards have mono input when the mic input is 
>>> selected, but may (or may not) when the Line In is selected - I/Q decoding 
>>> requires stereo soundcard input - if the input is mono, you will see 
>>> exactly the condition you report.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Thanks Don for your help.

I still need someone to give me a model number for a USB Sound Card that will 
work as I only want to do this once. I have been on the internet but none of 
the sound cards tell me if the mic input is stereo. The Creative X-Fi was too 
generic for me to tell which model to buy so if I had the rest of the model 
information that still might be the answer.

73 and thanks for any information.

Ken W0CZ   w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2013, at 9:24 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Ken,
> 
> Since the KX3 I/Q bandwidth is limited to something like 48kHz, you do not 
> need an exotic soundcard which will give you a 192 kHz span, most external 
> soundcards will do the job just fine.
> 
> The Creative X-Fi soundcard is available at a modest price, and will do a 192 
> kHz span should you need it, but there may be other less costly options that 
> I am not aware of.  The X-Fi can be modified with a couple of added 
> capacitors to reduce the noise level - Google for the mod information.
> 
> The biggest consideration for use with the KX3 RX I/Q output is the noise 
> level rather than the bandwidth of the soundcard.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 6/24/2013 10:11 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:
>> Hi Don
>> 
>> You answered and confirmed my suspicion. I suspect since I have a new 
>> Elecraft cable and the sound card only has the MIKE input that it is MONO. 
>> Do you know of a USB sound card that you will work? I would rather by 
>> something good that I know will work than spend money on something cheap 
>> that may not. I have got my use out of this sound card on digital ham 
>> programs.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Jun 24, 2013, at 8:51 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>>> Ken,
>>> 
>>> Are you getting a signal to the soundcard from both the I and Q channels?  
>>> What you are seeing is normal of only one channel is fed to the soundcard.
>>> 
>>> In other words, check your cables.  Plug in the left channel only into the 
>>> soundcard and see if you have a signal present, then do the same with the 
>>> right channel.
>>> 
>>> It may be a cabling problem, or your sound adapter may have only mono 
>>> input.  Many external soundcards have mono input when the mic input is 
>>> selected, but may (or may not) when the Line In is selected - I/Q decoding 
>>> requires stereo soundcard input - if the input is mono, you will see 
>>> exactly the condition you report.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Don

You answered and confirmed my suspicion. I suspect since I have a new Elecraft 
cable and the sound card only has the MIKE input that it is MONO. Do you know 
of a USB sound card that you will work? I would rather by something good that I 
know will work than spend money on something cheap that may not. I have got my 
use out of this sound card on digital ham programs.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 24, 2013, at 8:51 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Ken,
> 
> Are you getting a signal to the soundcard from both the I and Q channels?  
> What you are seeing is normal of only one channel is fed to the soundcard.
> 
> In other words, check your cables.  Plug in the left channel only into the 
> soundcard and see if you have a signal present, then do the same with the 
> right channel.
> 
> It may be a cabling problem, or your sound adapter may have only mono input.  
> Many external soundcards have mono input when the mic input is selected, but 
> may (or may not) when the Line In is selected - I/Q decoding requires stereo 
> soundcard input - if the input is mono, you will see exactly the condition 
> you report.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 6/24/2013 9:32 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen wrote:
>> I am trying to get Rocky 3.7 to work with my KX3 similar to the display of 
>> the P3 and my K3. I have Rocky 3.7 running on my laptop computer and Windows 
>> 8. Rx I/Q is turned on in the menu of the KX3 and the cable supplied by 
>> Elecraft is running to my Creative model SB1100 USB sound adapter. My sound 
>> adapter is several years old so may not be the same as the new ones listed 
>> on the Internet.
>> 
>> Rocky Soundcard info
>> INPUT
>>  Device 04 SBX-FiGo!
>>  wFormatTag WAVE_FORMAT_PCM
>>  nChannels 2
>>  nSamplesPerSec: 48000
>>  nAvgBytesPerSec: 19200
>>  nBlockAlign: 4
>>  wBitsPerSample: 16
>>  cbSize: 0
>>  wValidBitsPerSample: 0
>>  dwChannelMask: 0
>>  SubFormat: (----)
>> 
>> I did not include the OUTPUT data as I am not using the transmit part
>> 
>> My problem is I get two spikes for every signal. One is the correct one but 
>> an equal sized spike is shown on the opposite side of the screen. I do not 
>> think this is normal as I don't think other hams would want a display with 
>> that problem.
>> 
>> I have tried Rocky - View - Settings
>>  Left/Right = I/Q
>>  Left/Right = Q/I
>>  Shift Right Channel Data by
>>  -8,-7,-6,-5,-4,-3,-2,-1,0,+1,+2,+3,+4,+5,+6,+7,+8
>> 
>> I don't know what else to try and I do wonder if the
>> USB sound card uses stereo for the microphone but I have not been able to 
>> find that information on the Internet.
>> 
>> I would appreciate any help. I feel it is so close to working but not 
>> working right.
>> 
>> Ken W0CZ  w...@i29.net
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> __
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[Elecraft] KX3 and Rocky 3.7

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

I am trying to get Rocky 3.7 to work with my KX3 similar to the display of the 
P3 and my K3. I have Rocky 3.7 running on my laptop computer and Windows 8. Rx 
I/Q is turned on in the menu of the KX3 and the cable supplied by Elecraft is 
running to my Creative model SB1100 USB sound adapter. My sound adapter is 
several years old so may not be the same as the new ones listed on the 
Internet. 

Rocky Soundcard info 
INPUT
 Device 04 SBX-FiGo!
 wFormatTag WAVE_FORMAT_PCM
 nChannels 2
 nSamplesPerSec: 48000
 nAvgBytesPerSec: 19200
 nBlockAlign: 4
 wBitsPerSample: 16
 cbSize: 0
 wValidBitsPerSample: 0
 dwChannelMask: 0
 SubFormat: (----)

I did not include the OUTPUT data as I am not using the transmit part

My problem is I get two spikes for every signal. One is the correct one but an 
equal sized spike is shown on the opposite side of the screen. I do not think 
this is normal as I don't think other hams would want a display with that 
problem. 

I have tried Rocky - View - Settings
 Left/Right = I/Q 
 Left/Right = Q/I
 Shift Right Channel Data by 
 -8,-7,-6,-5,-4,-3,-2,-1,0,+1,+2,+3,+4,+5,+6,+7,+8

I don't know what else to try and I do wonder if the 
USB sound card uses stereo for the microphone but I have not been able to find 
that information on the Internet.

I would appreciate any help. I feel it is so close to working but not working 
right.

Ken W0CZ  w...@i29.net

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Serial Number Data Base

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi from Ken W0CZ

I remember entering my serial number in a data base when I built me K2 and 
later my K3. I can't seem to find that location to enter the serial number for 
my KX3. Was this data base discontinued? Does anyone know the way to get to it 
if it is still in use?

Thanks

Ken   W0CZ

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[Elecraft] RX I/Q simple spectrum software.

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi from Ken W0CZ

I have KX3 SN 4275, a Windows 8 laptop and I am looking for a simple program 
that would use the RX IQ jack to display a portion of the band the way my K3-P3 
does. I do not need or want it to control my KX3 as I want my logging program 
to control the KX3. I also don't want it to use too many resources on the 
computer.

I see many programs that try to do everything but that is not what I want.

Thanks in advance if there is a program that will do what I need.

Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Modification I made to KXPD3

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

My KX3 came last Monday and I used it extensively camping this week end. The 
contacts on the KXPD3 acted dirty after about 4 hours of CW so I finished the 
QSO with my Palm Mini Paddle. I cleaned the contacts with paper and WD40 but 
soon it again got just as bad. I took it apart and noticed the ground for each 
side passed through the paddle hinge. My fix was to remove one fine stand of 
wire from a speaker cable. I soldered the middle of the wire to the ground pin 
of the 4 conductor jack. I loosened each spring screw and put a wire under each 
screw head. I tightened the screw heads and put the paddle back together. I ran 
CW for many more hours and never had any more trouble. I now think this is the 
best paddle I have ever owned. The movement is so slight on the corners of the 
wires I don't expect to have any problem with metal fatigue breaking the wire.
KenW0CZ
w0cz at i29 dot net

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise when plugging kx3 into computer

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

I have been able to kill my computer noise to my K3 by putting a USB hub 
between my computer and the USB to serial converter to my K3.

It is worth a try as the hub was cheap and I discovered it by accident.

73 and good luck

Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 18, 2013, at 5:34 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> You said 'everything is grounded' -- but does that include the computer?
> Laptops may be difficult to ground because of plastic cases, but perhaps a 
> screw somewhere in the enclosure can provide a grounding point.  The key is 
> not necessarily 'grounding', but instead bonding all components (including 
> the computer) with large diameter wire or braid to keep everything at the 
> same potential.
> Plugging the computer as well as the ham gear into the same AC receptacle is 
> a potential assist to the situation, but as you have observed, it is not a 
> total cure.
> 
> Check the RFI information provided by K9YC at 
> http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/K9YC/K9YC.htm, it is an excellent resource 
> for such problems.
> 
> You could try using the 8 kHz RX shift on the KX3 to see if that helps - 
> again, not the 'cure' but it can assist.  Replacing the computer (or its 
> power supply) may be the only alternative to truely 'fixing' this problem.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> On 4/18/2013 5:33 PM, AB1SX wrote:
>> Never noticed it because while setting up the kx3 I was also setting
>> everything up on my computer.  I am a new ham and was getting the logging
>> software etc all set up.  I recently was using the kx3 without the computer
>> plugged in and the computer was on the other side of the room.  I had very
>> little background noise on the kx3.  I finished up what I was doing on the
>> computer and brought it back to the kx3 (computer was still on) and I
>> started getting back ground noise, when I plugged it in the noise even got
>> louder?   I then took the computer away from the area and the noise
>> disappeared again?  What's up with that?  Everything is grounded.  Could it
>> be because I am plugging the lap top into the same plug outlet as my remote
>> power?  The KX3 is set up as a base station in the house, remote power
>> source, kx3, antenna tuner and 150 watt amp.  Is there a way I can stop that
>> noise through filters on the kx3?   Suggestions would be apprciated.
>> 
>> AB1SX
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Noise-when-plugging-kx3-into-computer-tp7572783.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Noise

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

I had a bad problem with noise when I hooked my K3 to my computer using a USB 
adapter and any program that polled the K3 frequency. I had to add a USB hub 
for another problem and discovered that it cured the noise problem. Now I 
always feed the USB adapter thru a USB hub and never have the noise problem on 
any of my three computers. Give that a try and I hope it works as well for you 
as it does for me.
73
Ken W0CZ
 

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 29, 2013, at 11:36 PM, VK4HIA  wrote:

> Good Day All,
> 
> I am having a hard time trouble shooting a noise issue when opening the K3
> utility or HRD.
> 
> When ever either of these programs is opened I have a portion of 20m that
> becomes unusable due to a high noise floor, other parts of 20m increase by 1
> - 2 S points.
> 
> I have placed clip on ferrite beads on the P3 to PC cable.
> 
> Here is a link to a short video of what it looks / sounds like.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Amk0EpL_skM
>   
> 
> Any advice is appreciated as I use HRD regularly.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Brendon Tadgell
> 
> VK4HIA
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Utility-Noise-tp7571985.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] 20 meter net

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Kevin

I was on 20 meters watching from 14.049.5 to 14.050.5. I only heard one station 
from Texas and not the station he was working. I had no reason to look so far 
away from the net frequency for you as you are usually within 500 hz of the net 
frequency. I suspect most of our net members never thought to look so far away 
either.

Hope to catch you on 40.

73

Ken W0CZ


Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] OT: High RF currents in small TX'ing loops

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Ken
I have had the MFJ 3 foot loop for several years. I am now using it to receive 
only as it has a better signal to noise ratio than my Hy-Tower vertical. I 
found the SWR drifted badly due to changes in temperature caused by sun light 
and the environment. I felt it was much more stable at night so I did not feel 
the heat caused by 100 watts of RF was making a problem. The changes in SWR are 
not noticed by my receiving experience. I hope my observations are helpful to 
you
73
Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: High RF currents in small TX'ing lopps

[Kenneth A Christiansen]

Hi Ken

I have had the MFJ 3 foot loop for several years. I am now using it to receive 
only as it has a better signal to noise ratio than my Hy-Tower vertical. I 
found the SWR drifted badly due to changes in temperature caused by sun light 
and the environment. I felt it was much more stable at night so I did not feel 
the heat caused by 100 watts of RF was making a problem The changes in SWR are 
not noticed by my receiving experience. I hope my observations are helpful to 
you

73

Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 1, 2013, at 4:19 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Small transmitting loops by their very nature involve high levels of
> current flow and this can/will cause "ordinary" variable caps to heat,
> which results in tuning drift.  
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[Elecraft] Contest

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have been a ham for 46 years and except for field day which I was not 
very good at avoided contests. I always found 30 meters to be better 
than normal during contests because many wonderful hams came down there 
when the bands were busy. About 10 years ago I did my first contest 
using my IC-746 PRO and RTTY. My results were modest but I did find it 
rather fun and started to make sense of the exchanges. The IC-746 had 
problems with close strong stations and that was often a problem on CW 
QSOs as well. I made many portable CW QSOs with my K2-100 while camping 
and still do but at home in a contest the problems were different and I 
still could not enjoy contests. I have now had my K3 for 4 years and my 
P3 for going on two and this year have enjoyed contests I never would 
have even tried before. I made more CW LOW power contacts during FIELD 
DAY for our club than the 2 SSB station combined. I made 63 LOW power 
contacts in the ARRL Sweep Stakes contest, 46 contacts with LOW power in 
the ARRL RTTY contest and this week end 52 contacts and 37 countries 
using QRP 5 watt power in the ARRL DX CW contest. The K3 and P3 do all 
the wonderful things for me that they do for a top notch contest station 
such as rejecting close in QRM and finding stations to work. The 
problems I noticed with my IC-746 PRO just are not there with the K3. I 
get 599 reports like everyone else but I also notice that I do not get 
an answer when I call a station if there is any other station in a 
pileup with me. That still makes me pleased though when I work a Europe, 
Africa, or South America  station from my modest city lot and 5 watts of 
power and 7 meter high antenna in Fargo ND.
73. I may work you in another contest or I may join you for a rag chew 
on 30 meters but either way I will be enjoying my K2 or K3 plus other 
family activities on the same week ends.

W0CZ Ken Christiansen Fargo ND
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[Elecraft] K2 remote antenna tuner question

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi to Ron VE8RT and the group.

I have used a MFJ-927 remote tuner for the last three years with my 
HY-Tower vertical about 20 feet from my house. The power for the tuner 
is added to the transmit coax here in the shack and the tuner is at the 
base of my antenna. We have long cold winters here and the tuner has 
worked many times at 20 degrees below zero and more. It has been trouble 
free except shortly after I bought it they replaced it under warranty. I 
have no idea why it quit but as I say that was several years ago. This 
tuner is only rated at 200 watts and of course that is no problem for my 
K3, K2 or IC-746 PRO but I am still waiting to see how the new tuner 
from Elecraft works out as it would be nice to add a KPA500 to my station.

I hope this report from Fargo ND helps you.

73

Ken W0CZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Prevent Snow/Dirt Static damage to KPA100 after upgrade

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi Don

Thank you for your note. You answered a question that was on my mind and 
in fact I did use the slavaged RFC10 in my own modification. I put it 
across J4 the RF IN jack of the KAT100. It seems to work fine and I plan 
to keep it that way. The only reason I did not put it in my note was 
that I was not sure why it was removed from the KPA100 in the first 
place. Now that I know I recommend either putting the RFC10 accross J4 
of the KAT100 like I did or putting RFC10 from the center pin to ground 
of the PL-259 and T adaptor.

Thanks for the info Don and I hope between our two notes we can save 
many KPA100s from snow static this winter.

73

Ken  W0CZ
+++
On 10/23/2010 7:25 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>  Ken,
>
> If you salvaged RFC10 from the KPA100 upgrade, I suggest you use it.
> The only problem is that it cannot live inside the KPA100 because it 
> couples into the base K2 circuits causing spurious responses and all 
> kinds of "strange happenings".
>
> You mentioned using a T connector - certainly, just mount the 100 uHy 
> choke in a PL-259 - one lead to the center conductor and the other to 
> the shell.  Place that PL-259 on one side of the T adapter, and 
> connect the antenna to the other.
>
> A resistor will do OK, but the choke provides a better low DC 
> resistance path than a resistor.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 10/23/2010 5:07 PM, Kenneth A. Christiansen wrote:
>> 40 years ago we had a windy dust storm in Bismarck ND and I lost the RF
>> amplifier in my new solid state Heathkit receiver three times that day
>> before I realized the dirt and high winds were putting a static charge
>> on my antenna. I found there was a capacitor between the antenna and the
>> RF amp and the static would arc across the capacitor  and burn out the
>> RF amp. Of course tube type receivers did not have this problem. I found
>> out a 100K resistor from the antenna to ground would prevent this and
>> not load down the antenna.
>>
>> Several years ago my friend I each bought a new IC-746PRO. The first
>> time we had a blizzard with 50 MPH winds and snow my friend and I both
>> burned out our new rigs with snow static trying to check into the ND
>> Weather Net. The K2 survived just fine. The IC-746PROs were both fixed
>> under warranty but it still cost both of us shipping. I found out the
>> IC-746PROs did not have any path to discharge the antenna charge from
>> the snow static.
>>
>> I recently installed the KPA100 Upgrade and one of the steps was to
>> remove R10 the 100uh choke between the antenna jack and ground. There is
>> no other path to ground and I have read on the reflector about people
>> having their SWR and Power measuring diodes go bad and it was easy to
>> see why. I plan to use this rig to check into the ND Weather net this
>> winter so knew I needed to fix the problem.
>>
>>
>

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[Elecraft] Prevent Snow/Dirt Static damage to KPA100 after upgrade

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

40 years ago we had a windy dust storm in Bismarck ND and I lost the RF 
amplifier in my new solid state Heathkit receiver three times that day 
before I realized the dirt and high winds were putting a static charge 
on my antenna. I found there was a capacitor between the antenna and the 
RF amp and the static would arc across the capacitor  and burn out the 
RF amp. Of course tube type receivers did not have this problem. I found 
out a 100K resistor from the antenna to ground would prevent this and 
not load down the antenna.

Several years ago my friend I each bought a new IC-746PRO. The first 
time we had a blizzard with 50 MPH winds and snow my friend and I both 
burned out our new rigs with snow static trying to check into the ND 
Weather Net. The K2 survived just fine. The IC-746PROs were both fixed 
under warranty but it still cost both of us shipping. I found out the 
IC-746PROs did not have any path to discharge the antenna charge from 
the snow static.

I recently installed the KPA100 Upgrade and one of the steps was to 
remove R10 the 100uh choke between the antenna jack and ground. There is 
no other path to ground and I have read on the reflector about people 
having their SWR and Power measuring diodes go bad and it was easy to 
see why. I plan to use this rig to check into the ND Weather net this 
winter so knew I needed to fix the problem.

MFJ on my remote tuner uses a 40 K resistor  to protect their circuit. 
That is less than the 100 K I have used over the years so it should 
protect even better.

I put in the following change to fix my problem. I bought four 10K half 
watt resistors in a package from Radio Shack for $1.99. I soldered them 
in series and soldered one end to the center pint of the antenna jack J2 
and the other end to ground. I calculate that the resistors would 
withstand a 16 to 1 VSWR and I do not think the KPA100 would be able to 
put out 100 watts to a 16 to 1 VSWR so the resistors should be safe. 40K 
should protect the diodes from any problem and under normal conditions 
should dissipate 0.2 watts.

There is an easy way to protect the amplifier without making a 
modification to the amplifier it self. Buy a PL259 T adapter and a PL259 
plug. Solder one end of the 40 K series resistor to the center of the 
PL259 and the other end to the shell. The resistors can be covered by 
tape to prevent an accidental RF burn. Screw the PL259 /40K assembly to 
one side of the T adapter. Put the other two ports of the T adapter in 
series with the coax to the antenna or the coax to the 50 ohm side of a 
tuner.

The one remaining precaution is to touch both sides of the antenna lead 
to ground just before hooking them up to discharge any static 
electricity on the antenna. This fix will not protect the equipment from 
a lightning strike but it does allow me to use my rig to check into the 
ND Weather net during a blizzard.

I hope this can save someone else from having rig trouble after a high 
wind snow or dust storm.

73 for now

Ken  W0CZ

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[Elecraft] K3+P3+MFJ-1026 = 3 black boxes = 1 happy camper

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

  My P3 came a couple of weeks ago and went together just fine. The 
bands have been bad at my QTH for a long time yet every time I go 
camping they are good. The first thing the P3 showed me was a higher 
then expected noise level on all the bands. I had a noise level of -90 
to maybe -100 at best. I took the K3 and P3 out to the camp ground about 
70 miles from home and the noise on the bands ran from -120 to -130 dbm. 
No wonder all these years my 44 ft camping doublet seemed better than my 
Hy-Gain Hy tower or my 105 ft doublet fed with window line at home. I 
also notice on 40 meters at the camp ground that the background noise 
along with the signals came up at night. That would explain why I 
sometimes heard signals at home but always with lots of noise.  When I 
got home I found my old MFJ Noise Canceling Signal Enhancer (MFJ-=1026) 
in my shed and hooked it up. I had never been able to make it work using 
the S meters of my IC-746PRO or K3. The S-meters just did not have 
enough resolution and a receiver does not look at enough of the band. I 
set the P3 to a scale of 30 and band span to 100 khz. I started playing 
with the 1026. I was able to measure the levels of each antenna on the 
P3 than match them. The  phase knob and switch were set for a null in 
the noise than the strongest antenna was adjusted for more of a dip 
until the phase and antenna were adjusted for the minimum noise. I can 
tune in a signal and adjust to 1026 for best signal to noise. Now I can 
hear and work stations on 40, 20 and 30 meters. If I turn off the 1026 
the stations I hear go away except for the strongest and they even get 
noisy. A station with 40 db signal to noise on the P3 becomes 5 db 
signal to noise when I turn off the 1026. When I turn the 1026 back on 
the band again has many stations and I am able to work them just like I 
can from the camp ground. North Dakota is getting cold with winter 
coming so it will be good to camp in my own house and be able to make 
ham radio contacts this winter. I hope I can make 80 and 160 meters work 
too but my antennas may be too close together on this small city lot to 
get enough phase difference. The P3 reminds me of the HP Spectrum 
analyzer I used on the last generation of digital microwave at the phone 
company and I always missed using that after I retired. It has already 
proved it's worth to me and I see the software is only going to get 
better. Thanks to Elecraft for the K3 and P3 giving me back ham radio in 
my retirement.

Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] USB Sound Card for digital modes.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Rich told me he was having trouble sending this to the reflector but it is
such valuable advice and works so well I want to share it with the group.
I find even the DUPE warnings now come on the main computer speaker even 
while sending PSK31 on the USB sound card. My IMD meter reads -29 to -33 
so that is working well and my water fall looks just perfect like I have
not seen since back when I ran Windows 98 Second Edition. Thanks again to
everyone that helped me. I hope to work you in some of the upcoming 
contests.
73
Ken W0CZ
Rich's direction follow

Ken

In windows Vista and 7, I set the main sound card as the default soundcard.
It can also be done in XP but is a PITA.  Then in HRD or MIXW2, select the
correct sound device.  With Vista you are stuck with the volume settings you
had as only the default sound card volume sliders show up, but I found this
workable.  To change in Vista you need to make the sound card for the rig
default to change volume settings, they will not link to mix unless default,
(I set mine for mid range and then did the rest from the rig) Once you get
the proper volume setting make the main sound card default and all should
work (don't forget to reset the settings in MixW if changed.)  I did not
have to do this with Windows 7, as the slider is visible for all sound
devices. 

Make sure that the sound card for the rig is not set as the "default" Sound
card. It appears to me that Windows 7 can have two (or more?) default sound
cards. This can be done from control panel/sound/...  I do not recall this
in Vista or XP.  MIXW and HRD will see the sound card even though it is not
default, but you must select it manually as it will go the default
otherwise. Only need to do this once unless you change cards.  For MIXW go
to Configure/Sound device settings, then select the correct soundcard in the
top three windows.  HRD can be changed similarly.


Rich



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[Elecraft] USB Sound Card for digital modes.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi. to the group.
Thanks to the several people that sent me hints about my problems. I put 
several of the letters together and came up with a solution that works 
well for me.
 I bought the Creative Sound Blaster X-FI-GP SB1100 and it is now 
working just like I was used to before the Windows7 upgrade. I was able 
to make it work by plugging it directly into the lap top but I was short 
of USB ports so I plugged it into the USB hub and had to find my unused  
USB hub power supply to have enough power to make it work there. I have 
the keyboard, mouse, K3 and the Sound Blaster all connected to the hub. 
I also had to replace the KUSB with another USB to serial coverter as 
the KUSB still worked on one Windows 7 computer but not on this main 
one. It would key the rig instead of polling the rig about once a 
second. I reloaded the operating system and it lasted about 2 hours and 
started giving me the same trouble again. So far the new USB to serial 
card is not giving me any trouble.

Thanks for you help.
73
Ken w0cz
w...@i29.net
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[Elecraft] USB Sound Card for digital modes.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi from Ken

I put Windows7 on my computer and for the most part everything is 
working well but now I got around to using PSK31 and have a problem. The 
waterfall will show a signal for just a couple of seconds but then the 
signal goes away. I thought I had it fixed by turning off the noise 
reduction feature in Windows7 but now as I try to use it I notice that 
the signal input drops off just as though there is an auto gain feature 
that holds the audio too low for the digital programs to work properly. 
I can increase the gain in either the computer or the K3 but after about 
2 seconds the gain drops off.

My question is what USB sound card works best and if I change to a USB 
sound card will it work the way the old Windows sound cards worked or 
will I still be up against the new AGC action.

Thanks in advance for any advice I get.

73
Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net

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[Elecraft] Hnit for using Windows7 and PSK31

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I could tune in a PSK31 signal using either MixW or Digipan but it would 
go away after just a few letters both on the screen and the water fall.
I found the following procedure fixed the problem.

Right click the speakers ICON
Left Click Recording Devices
Left click Communications
Left Click Do Nothing
Left Click Apply
Left Click OK

There are also screens to adjust the gain and select input jacks if 
needed under Recording Devices.

Now PSK31 works well again but it was disappointing yesterday when I 
tried to show a new ham PSK31 and I could not make it work.

Hope this hint helps others.
73
Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] Life is good

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

The new Synchronous AM Receive just capped all the improvements I have 
been able to make to 160 meters this year. I use my Hy-Gain Hy-Tower 
with a MFJ-927 remote tuner and a home made load coil to transmit. I am 
able to receive on my 80 meter dipole with the separate receiver input 
of the K3 to pick up less noise. The K3 noise blanker and variable 
digital IF filters all have made reception much better than my IC-746. I 
work a 160 AM net on Sunday mornings and always heard a sort of chirpy 
tone on the more distant stations. My supply is the Astron 35M and it is 
clean. The Synchronous AM USB option gets rid of all the chirpy tone. 
Thank you Elecraft.

I had one other good thing happen this week and will pass it along. My 2 
year old laptop computer quit and I bought a new Toshiba L505-S5590 
laptop with Windows 7. The driver for the KUSB from the elecraft site 
for Vista works just fine for Windows 7. I have not been able to detect 
any RF interference on any band I have tried so far from the Toshiba to 
the K3. The old lap top caused more interference when the KUSB and MixW 
were in use but I can't tell in any way on the K3 when I plug in the 
KUSB or run MixW. I even turned the AGC to manual and measured the DBV 
using the K3s built in audio tool and I don't detect any change from 
everything on the computer off to everything on. That is a real improvement.

I have no connection with the computer industry or Toshiba but  at least 
in my case the new computer and synchronous AM receive are both making 
my hobby much more fun.

I still need to know how to set up MixW to log the sending part of Sweep 
Stakes. Nothing I have tried has worked for the transmit part of the log 
although it does a perfect job of sending the data by keying the 
transmitter.

73
Ken W0CZ
w...@i29.net
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[Elecraft] Question about MixW

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi to the group.

I am using my K3 to work SweepStakes. I made several bad mistakes at the 
start so I will not send in my report as I don't want to mess up the 
scores of the people I worked for the first two hours. I now have the 
Macro fixed by using  instead of  which was logging wrong 
numbers and also seemed to be confusing to the other operator.

I still have a problem though as I would think the program could 
automatically log the Exch_Sent but all I have been able to figure out 
is how to save the serial number.
If my data was good I figured I could fix it with NOTEPAD before  I sent 
it in but now I don't need to do that.  I would still like to know how 
to get MixW to automatically log the Exch_Sent field.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

73

Ken  W0CZ
w...@i29.net
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[Elecraft] I did use K3 in 160 meter contest

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I was in 1st place single operator low power cw North Dakota and #7 10th 
Area.
I got into the wrong log the other day and thought I did it with the 
IC-753 PRO which I in fact did in 2008.
In 2009 I had my K3/100 running at 50 watts. I had 3 pages of MixW log 
in 2009 and only 1 page in 2008.
That shows how the K3 has improved 160 and every time I turn on the 746 
on 160 I get to wonder how I ever worked anyone.
73
Ken Christiansen   W0CZ
w...@i29.net
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[Elecraft] KUSB and Windows 7

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi.

I converted two of my computers to Windows 7 this week end. I found I 
had to use a new
driver on the KUSB (Universal Serial Bus Adapter) for the K3.

It is Prolific, Driver Date 7/17/2009, Driver Version 3.3.5.122. I 
transfered the new
software to the K3 using the new Elecraft K3 utility. I was also able to 
use MixW to
control the K3. There is a PDF version of the MixW help files that will 
work with
both Vista and Windows 7. The computers seem to work well so far. I hope 
this
information can be useful to the Elecraft group.

73 and good luck.

Kenneth A. Christiansen   W0CZ
w...@i29.net

PS. I got the CQ WW16 DX Contest award of 1ST PLACE SINGLE OPERATOR
LOW POWER CW NORTH DAKOTA #7 10TH AREA WITH A TOTAL SCORE
OF 11544. I did it exactly one month before my K3 came so it was my last 
contest
using my IC746PRO. It would have been much easier with the K3.
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Re: [Elecraft] Good experiance using the K3-100 on battery power

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Bob Wrote
++
What did you use for an antenna when you were camping in Northern Mn?
This is a Honda eu2000i question mostly. They can make a lot of noise 
especially into low mounted verticals.
Bob
KB1FRW
++
I have been camping and doing ham radio together for over 40 years and 
this is my "CAMPING
ANTENNA" which I have used for the last 4 or more years.

I bought a 23 ft telescoping painters handle from Menards and a small 
paint roller that screws on the
end of the handle. I removed the roller and bent it into a hook. This 
makes my center support and is held
to the hitch and my front window cover of my camper with elastic cords. 
I put eye hooks on two 3/4 inch
pvc pipes and used a large eye bolt and smaller hook bolt to make a 
place on the back bumper of the
camper to hold one support in position. I drilled a 3/4th inch hole in 
an 18 inch two by four and an
elastic cord to hold the other support to the front bumper of my car. 
The 44 ft doublet has a center
insulator made of a PVC tee with a hook that hooks over the home made 
hook at the top of the center
support. The feed line of the doublet is 22 ft of 450 ohm window line. I 
use a W2DU 1 to 1 balun
between the elecraft built in tuner and the window line. This antenna 
works well on 40 and 20 thru 10
meters. It loads on 6 meters but I have never heard the band open so do 
not know if it works.

I add a 22 ft length of twin lead tied in a coil to the other 22 ft of 
feed line to work 30 meters. I add
22 ft extensions to each end of the doublet to make and 88 ft doublet on 
75 meters and use the
same feed line as I do on 30 meters. I have been told my signal on the 
ND SSB net is just as
strong as it is from home. I find it does not make much difference where 
I put the extensions so
I often just go back to a picnic table or camp chair on my own camp site 
with the ends.

I also use this antenna on 160 meters with the following changes. I 
leave the 88 ft doublet part up
but go back to the 22 ft feed line. I use a 2 inch loading coil and 
connect the top of the loading
coil to both sides of the window line. I go from the loading coil to 
what I call the hot side of the
W2DU balun and I go from a bolt on the frame of my camper to what I 
consider the cold side
of the balun. I have worked 200 miles at 8:30 local time Sunday mornings 
on 160 for the Goose
River SSB net  from several different camp sites in ND and MN. I have 
worked from Valley City
ND to my friend Bill in Warroad MN several times.

I have only used the Honda eu2000i on 40, 30 and 20 as I usually charge 
my battery about 2:00 PM
while the other campers tend to be busy and making their own noise. The 
first time I tried it I was
bothered by noise but I had a 50 foot extension cord and wrapped it into 
a coil about 4 inches in
diameter. The noise dropped down to at least the level of my home QTH. I 
found the NB on the
K3 could get rid of the noise at a setting ofE3-7 IF WID4 or IF NAR5.

I never tried the eu2000I on 80 or 160 because I consider week day 
dinner time and Sunday
mornings to be quiet times and don't want to bother anyone.

I hope my camping antenna ideas can help other people. I have tried long 
wires, dipoles and
verticals over the years and this is by far the best antenna I have had 
for not bothering other
campers and giving good performance. The dipoles worked just as well but 
people look at
you funny when you string antennas across their camp sites

73 Ken W0CZ

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[Elecraft] Good experiance using the K3-100 on battery power

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have used my K2 and later K2-100 as my camping rig since the year 2000.
This year I wanted to try my K3-100 for field day as QRP 1B ND. I took the
K3 with me over Memorial day and ran it at 100 W CW. On Sunday morning
I did 160 meter SSB and AM. I was pleasantly surprised how well the battery
lasted and no body gave me any bad reports. The time I tried the same thing
with my IC-737 I was getting chirp reports within the first half hour 
and later
on the receiver lost mow5 its sensitivity due to the low voltage. On the 
IC-737
I had to add a dry cell to the battery bus for the lower power stages 
but it was
generally not a satisfactory situation.

The K2 was never bothered by the low voltages and in fact I never even saw
the power back down as the regulators and auto gain circuits compensated
well for the low voltages. I continued with the K2 even though I had the K3
last year as I felt any rig with all those nice features of the K3 could 
not
possibly work on my camping battery.

I ran the K3 as QRP 1B ND for field day and was pleased with how well
it worked and my battery did not run down. I had always wanted to take
a ham radio vacation to the woods of Northern Minnesota and decided this
should work with the K3-100.

I am using a three year old 105 amp hour group 24 RV battery and picked
out a camp ground with no electricity for no AC line noise. I bought a Honda
EU2000I generator and used my MFJ-4225MV switching power supply
to recharge the battery. I changed every DC connector to the same
PowerPole connector as the K3-100 uses for ease of charging and
changing 12 volt configurations.

I ran the K3-100 well over 100 hours and 25 days this summer at
100W CW using the following procedure. I would rag chew 3 to 5 hours
a day and let the XL use the camper lights. The K3 would indicate 12.0 V
on receive at the end of this time. Every afternoon I would run the
generator for two hours. I would charge the battery at 16 amps untill
the voltage reached 13.9 volts than I would continue until the charging
current dropped down to 3.5 amps. This always took almost exactly
two hours. The battery never used any water as I checked the levels
in the cells. The battery lasted as well the last day as it did the 
first. The
low background noise gave me the best ham radio experience I have
ever had. The Honda generator used about a gallon of gas every 6 days.

I operated a few times while the battery was charging and the noise from
the Honda was low if a wrapped a 50 foot extension cord into a small
coil but of course the battery by it self was another S unit or so quieter.

I hope my report is helpful to others that want to operate in remote
locations. I never thought I would replace the K2 with the K3 for
battery operation but now I plan to stick with the K3 for all my camping.

73
Ken   W0CZ

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[Elecraft] New K3 software 3.25 Noise Reduction works

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I found the new Elecraft Untiltiy and K3 software 3.25 on the Elecraft 
website tonight.
I live in Fargo ND and have lots of line noise and this new software is 
by far the best I have ever tried.
I am looking forward to more CW contacts from home instead of having to 
go camping to hear most
of the stations on the bands.
Thanks Lyle. I think you have a winner this time.
73
Ken W0CZ

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[Elecraft] K3 pwr out on digimodes

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

+If the filter response varies across the passband, which it does, the ALC
+will vary the amount of gain used to try to keep the RF level to the amount
+it is set at, whether the signal is being generated near the edge of the
+passband or at the center. This is important to the PSK31 operator who does
+not want to tune every signal to the center of the passband sweet spot
+efore hitting TX in order to get maximum power out.
++
I use the ALIGN function in MIXW or the similar functions in LOGGER or DM780
to set my rig to a tone of 1500 hz for both TX and RX. That way I can use 
the filters for receive and the same gain level for TX as I click on PSK31
stations in my band pass. I did this with my IC-746PRO for the same reason
as any ham grade filters I have ever seen have gain variations with changes
in frequency. Three DB may not seem like much in the bandpass of a filter
but it is a lot in terms of the output of the transmitter. You set for fifty
watts and clean and find one hundred watts and distortion.

I have been using ALIGN for four years and the gain / frequency problem 
has  become a non issue.
73
Ken W0CZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: The ARRL RTTY Round UP

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

wayne burdick wrote:

> > 
> > All RTTY issues noted, Dave -- thanks.
> > 
> > Congratulations on your excellent showing!
> > 
> > Wayne
> > N6KR

I use the 200 hz filter on RTTY all the time including
the ARRL RTTY Round UP.
I set up my 200 hz filter as a 300 hz filter in the
config menu.
I used DATA A and 1500 hz with the PWR setting
cut back to about 40 watts which gave me about
80 watts on the meter but it seemed to work well
for me until the power issue is fixed.
I used MIXW and set up F12 to



Then I set up F8 to



and F4 to
SAVEQSO>


I have the 6 khz filter and could click on any
signal in the wide spectrum than hit F12 and
work them. The program even marks the
stations I have already worked in RED on
the water fall.
I set up F1 to call and f2 to exchange.
I am not much of a contester and only put
in a few hours for a total of 58 contacts but
the people I worked did not know that.If
I had put in more time I know I could have done
much better.
73 and hope this works well for other people.
Ken
W0CZ

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[Elecraft] K3 Using RFV and dBV

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

the earlier talk about the K3 S meter got me to thinking about a problem 
I wanted to address.


I wanted to use the S meter to track small changes in level. My IC-746 
PRO has twice the segments of my K3 but that was not enough either. The 
K3 S meter is great on the air as I never give anyone a 5 5.4 9 report 
anyway HI HI. I had never used the RFV and dBV features of the K3 and 
find they are just the powerful feature I needed but there is not much 
in the way of instructions on how to use them. Here is what I found 
works well for me.


My vertical is my nosiest antenna so I would tune the receiver to a 
clear frequency on 20 meters with the AGC-F and the RF gain MAX CW. I 
would get a AFV reading that would jump between about 105 and 111. I 
change the selection to dBV just as I see the meter read about 108, 
(average of 105 and 111). The reading takes a second or so to calibrate 
to something near 0 DB and it will bounce around a bit above and below. 
I changed AGC to OFF and adjusted the RF GAIN control to bring back a 
reading near ZERO DB. This completed my calibration and now I am ready 
to make my measurements.


My vertical still measured ZERO DB but my beam would peak up about -3 DB 
and at times drop to -18 DB as I rotated it. I often have trouble with 
noise when working KD5ONS on the 00:00 20 meter Elecraft NET. I found a 
small change in beam heading dropped my noise to -18 DB from the -5 DB 
of my usual beam heading for KD5ONS. I was able to check into the net 
tonight and the signals were weak but I think this procedure made the 
difference between hearing and not hearing. The dip in the pattern on my 
beam is extremely sharp so I had to hit my rotator bar several times to 
catch it.


I also have a MFJ 1026 that I never hooked up because it was too hard to 
adjust on my IC-746PRO. I am looking forward to getting cables and try 
it with my K3 now that I have a way to measure the levels so well.


I hope these instructions can help others use this powerful feature. The 
dBV calibration stays calibrated over a time of at least an hour and 
also works to play with the NB and NR features.


73

Ken W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I used a 5 volt regulator on my MFJ 4225 to slow down the fan. This allows
the fan to start reliably at any voltage. I have run mine and my K2-100 this
way for at least 5 years with no problem on SSB, CW and DIGITAL.

73
Ken W0CZ

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[Elecraft] No field day this year for W0CZ

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I just got my notification from the Salvation Army that I will be 
spending two weeks driving a canteen at Cedar Rapids Iowa. I will be 
missing field day which I have been looking forward to all year. I 
missed field day the year I built my K2 as as I got flooded my self here 
in Fargo ND. I appreciated the help I received then and know it is time 
to repay people now.


73 and will be looking forward to hearing how field day goes this year 
for the rest of you.


Ken   W0CZ
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[Elecraft] K3 noise blanker sure does the job.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I ordered my K3 in June of 2007 after a strong local noise level started 
at my Fargo ND QTH. (That was the factor that convinced me I needed a 
K3). The noise went away for a few months about the time I got my K3 so 
while I was pleased with how the K3 took care of the normal noise of the 
city I did not know how it would work if the noise came back. Last night 
I was working the Elecraft net on 20 meters and KD5ONS was coming in 
about S7 and about the best copy I have had on him in months. I turned 
on my IC-746PRO on 2 meters to check into the local 2 meter net and 
noticed the S meter sat at S9. I switched to AM and sure enough the bad 
line noise was back. I turned off the NB on the K3 and sure enough I 
could barely tell KD5ONS was in there as the S meter jumped to S8 and 
Kevin was only S7. I was running the K3 with PRE ON, ATT OFF,  DSP E3-4, 
IF MED3 and the default width  of 400 HZ with the 500 HZ roofing filter. 
With the NB ON the S meter would drop to S1 when there was a break in 
the action and I was copying stations down to S1 with no way to know 
there was any noise in the area. I sure made the right decision to buy 
the K3 as this noise problem was here all last summer and the K2 and 746 
just could not do anything about it. I have an MFJ-852 noise meter and 
thought the noise was from my own house but pulling all the AC fuses to 
the house and and running the rig on a battery showed no change. There 
are 8 of us on the transformer which is in my back yard so it could be 
coming from any one of my neighbors. At least I don't have to deal with 
it this year due to the fact the K3 does such a good job of getting rid 
of the noise. The 746 on 2 meters FM can only pick up the strongest 
stations when the noise is there and they have lots of noise on them 
unless the strength is over S9. This morning the noise is gone but that 
is the way it was last year too. I never figured out a pattern to the 
noise as some times it would come on for a few seconds and other times 
it would come on for hours at a time.


73

Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] K3 QRP Battery Field Day

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have decided to run field day as a 5 watt battery station using my K3,
BL2 Balun, 44 ft doublet fed with 22 ft of window line, an old tandy DOS
computer for logging, a home brew white LED lamp and a 105 amp hour RV
battery. I measure K3 rec at 1.06A. K3 TX at 3.15A, LCD lamp at .10A,
DOS computer at 0.3A normal or 0.7A during disk operation. If I
transmitted 10% of the time, never took any kind of a break and went for
24 hours I could use a maximum of 40 AH. Reality is I will eat, go to
the rest room and sleep about 4 hours so if I shut things down during
that time I will probably come out closer to 35 AH.

I ran some tests on the BL2 on 40, 20, 15 and 10 meters into my 44 ft
doublet. I applied a 100 watt carrier from the K3 for 1 minute on each
band while the bands were dead and could not feel any sign of the BL2
getting even a little bit warm. It seemed to stay right at room
temperature. I feel it will must be efficient because if I can't feel
heat than it can't be causing loss.

I looked into solar charging for this field day as I would have liked
the 100 point bonus but I also wanted to meet the spirit of the bonus
which meant I wanted the solar to do a good job of replacing the power I
would use. I did not feel $500 to do this was practical and even just a
part of what I use would be $100. I can get enough energy from the power
grid to recharge the battery for about $0.20 or I could run my old
Homelite 600 watt generator long enough to charge the batter for about
$5.00. If I wanted to run field day at 100 watts on the generator for 24
hours it would cost about $20.00 for the gas for the Homelite. I will
skip the solar power bonus and just use up about a third of my large
battery.

I have a K2 and an IC-746PRO but the K3 is so much better for field day
that I want to use it. The IC-746PRO will not run on a discharging
battery and under busy contest conditions the receiver does not work
near as well as the K3. The K2 works well and I have use it for 4 field
days but the K3 has much better IF filters, much better noise fighting
features, and for the 30 to 45 WPM stations it even helps me copy the
information. I will be able drop back to my DOS laptop on the battery
for logging and dupe checking, which I feel helps meet the spirit of QRP
BATTERY, instead of using MIXW and having to run the Windows lap top on
AC..

I wrote a nice DOS logging/duping program compiled in quick basic
several years ago. If anyone wants it just drop me a line and I will
send it as a attachment to an E-Mail.

Hope to work all of you 1B ND.

73 for now

Kenneth A. Christiansen
W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED]



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[Elecraft] Hint on the K3 from W0CZ

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Last week end my XYL was gone and I got to spend some quality time with 
my K3.
I went out to Best Buy with my birthday gift certificate looking for a 
headset.
Most of their headsets needed to plug into a USB port on a computer so I 
had to
overlook them. I found a Dynex stereo headset for about $20.00 that 
looked as
though it might do the job. The salesman said I could bring it back if 
it didn't work.

The padded ear pieces are comfortable and the sound quality is good although
there is not much attenuation of external noise. I find that I can use 
them for hours

and my ears do not hurt.

The microphone seemed to have a lot of noise and hum on it and I thought 
maybe
it had a bad shield. It had been well packaged though so I decided to 
check into

it before I took it back. The microphone turned out to be connected with one
side to the SLEEVE of the plug and the other side to both the TIP and 
the RING.

I made an adapter cord with a stereo jack on one end and a mono plug on the
other end and my microphone problem went away.

The bottom line is  make or buy a stereo to mono adapter to use the 
microphone

part of a stereo headset on the K3.

73 for  now.
Ken W0CZ
K2/100 sn 1031
K3/100 sn 457

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[Elecraft] Value of 500 and 200 hz roofing filters

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I live on a city lot with lots of electrical noise. For this reason good 
noise reduction features are important if I want to be on the air. The 
thing that made me order my K3 last summer was the fact that the noise 
blanker in the IC-746PRO would work just fine until a strong station 
such as W1AW would come on than 15 khz of the band would become 
worthless because W1AW would key the noise blanker on and off.


I bought my K3 with the 500 hz filter and noticed with the noise blanker 
on and the 2.7 khz filter I saw a less serious problem similar to the 
one in my 746 pro over the 2.7 khz of the filter. If I went to the 500 
hz filter the problem only covered 500 hz. I ordered the 200 hz filter 
and now can get to within 200 hz of W1AW with the noise blanker on 
before I see the problem. I feel this is wonderful and sure makes it 
possible for me to have many more QSOs. If I do not need to run the 
noise blanker than I do not see the problem even with the 2.7 khz 
filter. My Hy-Gain Hy-Tower always got out well for me but I could not 
use it most of the time due to the high noise level. Now with the K3, 
the two noise blankers, the noise reduction and the 50 hz IF DSP filter 
plus the 500hz and 200 hz roofing filters I feel as though I am getting 
the use out of the Hy-Tower that I had always wanted. I also set the 
pitch on the K3 to 300 hz to get maximum help from my ears.


I just thought I would pass this along as several people have asked 
about the narrow roofing filters and if there is line noise involved I 
feel it makes a big difference.

73

Ken  W0CZ
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[Elecraft] Solar power for the K2

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I got into some wrong notes this morning. 600 MA is the amount adding 
the KPA-100 adds to the K3 during key down or transmit conditions. My 
earlier measurements were the right ones. I have the larger solar 
controller from Don Brown KD5NDB  and it works well with an AC power 
supply I use to keep my battery charged. I have been using this for 6 
years and now wonder if any advances have been made in solar cells so a 
ham can use them. I looked up a 70 watt solar panel on the internet and 
it was $500. I can't justify that and don't have any idea if it is even 
small enough to take car camping. Does anyone have any suggestions for 
solar power or do I just need to buy a second large battery?

Thanks and 73

Ken W0CZ
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Subject:,Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Subject:
Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 for QRP
From:
WILLIS COOKE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date:
Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:44:15 -0700 (PDT)

To:
Robert Tellefsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, G4ILO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

CC:


People talk about the extra current drain.  How much
is it?  I don't have my K3 yet to make any tests and I
seldom run QRP (only when the other station wants 2
way QRP), but it would be of interest to us all if
anyone had measured the current draw of the K3 at
receive with and without the KPA3, transmit at 5 watts
without the KPA3 installed and transmit at 5 watts
with the KPA3 installed. I am sure that Elecraft has
the information, but I don' recall seeing it
published.  My guess is that the KPA3 does not require
much if any current when it is switched out.  Anybody
do any tests to know for sure?
+
I measured my currents at the 12 watt part of my build 
and again when the K3 was finished.

on 14.05 MHZ I measured TX 2.73 amps as a 12 watt K3
On 14.05 MHZ I measured TX 2.93 amps as a 120 watt K3
The receive current is 0.9 Amps either way.
The receive current can jump as high as 1.1 amps if the
fans are running.

The extra 0.2 amps is only taken in transmit mode.
If the XMIT button is hit it takes the extra 0.2 once
the 120 watt amp is installed. If full break in is 
used than the extra 0.2 amps is only used when the key

is down. If you did a field day using S and P and full
break in the extra current would be about an extra 
half amp hour. If you were calling CQ at 50 percent

transmit and full break in it would be about an extra
two amp hours. If you hit XMIT each time it would 
add about an extra 0.5 amp hourto the two amp hours. 
The K3-100 in receive for a 24 hours field day

will use about 24 amp hours plus 5 to 24 extra amp
hours in transmit depending on duty cycle. That makes
a total of 29 to 47 amp hours for a full 24 hour field
day.

A K2 can do the same field day in about 12 to 26 amp
hours. I find the K3 to have so much better receiver
and I operate S and P so it will plan to spend the
extra 17 to 18 amp hours for my field day.

73
Ken W0CZ



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[Elecraft] Split and fast QSY settings

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi to the group from W0CZ K3 457
The Config settingVFO OFS - ON seems to do what the group wants.
Hold B-SET and the CLR knob will move B in a fast mode.
Turn off B-SET and it will move A in the fast mode.
I discovered this yesterday and now don't even use the RATE to change 
the VFO knob speed.

Play with it and you might like it.
73
Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] K3 Send and receive data on a terminal program?

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have been using K3 0047 and having lots of fun. I have the KUSB from 
Elecraft and it works fine with MixW and Ham Radio Delux.
I have Vista on my computer and had to download a copy of HyperTerminal 
from the internet. I can not get  any commands to go to the K3 from 
HyperTerminal and I can not see any data from the K3 on HyperTerminal. I 
got out an old DOS computer with an XTALK clone called MIRROR but I was 
not able to get it to send or receive data either. Has anyone else been 
able to get this feature to work. If you have can please share settings 
for both the K3 and the terminal program that I need to use. I already 
tried setting both terminals for 38400, 8 bits, no parity and 1 stop bit 
and the K3 is taling to MixW and Ham Radio Delux with these setting.

Thanks for any help.
I used the K3 on the 160 meter SSB net this morning and found I could 
work stations that I could not hear with the IC-746PRO. The audio also 
sounds much nicer to my ears. I am using 20 for MIC gain and 20 for CMP. 
Everyone told me it sounded better than the IC 746PRO so it must sound 
good as I have had good luck for 4 years with the IC 746PRO. I also used 
it on an AM net on 160 with good results both transmitting and 
receiving. I used the same MIC gain 20 and CMP gain 20.


73 for now.
Ken W0CZ
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[Elecraft] K3 NR 457 now working in Fargo ND

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I got a pleasant surprise yesterday when K3 457 arrived. It was ordered 
June 13 and I got my Lisa Gram last week end.
It has KAT3, KBPF3, KXV3, 500 hz filter, 2700 hz filter, 6000 hz filter 
and the FM filter on back order.


I made a special test on it because I wanted to know how the KPA3 
changes the current draw.  I know others have asked

the same question here and never did get an answer so here it is. .

The current tests before I put in the KPA3.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER) 1.56 A
TX 5W 2.56 A
TX 10W 3.07 A
TX 12W 3.23 A

The same test after the KPA3 was installed, Set up and working fine.
Receive 0.94 to 1.1 A
TX (NO POWER 2.16 A
TX 5W 3.10 A
TX 10W 3.62 A
TX 12W 3.78 A

All the above testes were done with a digital meter on the 10 amp scale.
I would say the KPA3 adds a constant 0.6 Amp for any given power level 
below 12.1 Watts.


I started the inventory last night about 6:00 PM and finished it tonight 
about 8 PM. I had a fire run, slept, went to a meeting etc.

so my build time must have been about the magic 10 hours.
I sure do like the receiver but have just scratched the surface of what 
it can do.

It was worth the wait.
73
Ken W0CZ

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RE: [Elecraft] Off Topic Use IC746PRO for a K3 Panadaptor

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

padded down for the IC-746PRO and if so how much? The other 
problem is how can I make sure I never accidentally transmit 
RF back into the K3 from the IC-746PRO as it does not have a 
receive only antenna jack. 



Use the RX Antenna input on the 746Pro.

My problem is the 746PRO does not have an RX Antenna input.
I still need a safe way to avoid putting RF back into the K3.
Ken W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] Off Topic Use IC746PRO for a K3 Panadaptor

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

My K3 which I ordered June 13th should be coming soon.
My present rigs are K2/100 SN 1031 and an IC-746PRO. I plan to keep both 
of them as the K2 is great for my camping and I have it set up for my 
XYL WD0EWM in her new shack. The IC-746PRO is my 2 meter all mode 
station and will be a backup the new K3. The IC-746PRO has a SCP 
(Panadaptor) feature with 2 modes of operation. It is not  as good as 
the IC756PRO3 but I still find it works well. My question is this. I 
have the KXV3 option ordered for the K3 and I would like to use the 
IC-746PRO in the SCP mode as a panadaptor. It will tune the 8.215 IF but 
at this point I have two problems. Does the level from the K3 need to be 
padded down for the IC-746PRO and if so how much? The other problem is 
how can I make sure I never accidentally transmit RF back into the K3 
from the IC-746PRO as it does not have a receive only antenna jack. 
Thanks in advance for your help. I know there are many good ideas out 
there you can share with me.

73 for now
Ken
W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] Windows Vista and some ham radio software

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

My XP computer went bad back in July and I replaced it with a lap top 
that runs Vista Ultimate. Two of my favorite ham radio programs would 
not run properly. The ARRL feed line program TLW would not even give a 
screen. I got it working by using the compatability part of  Vista and 
specifying Windows XP. This week end MixW  would not warn about dupes 
during the contest. I found the compatability part of Vista would make 
it work properly by specifying Windows XP and I also needed to specify 
that I needed Administrator privileges for that program in the 
compatability set up. I hope this information can help others. I am 
waiting for my K3 and have my shack and camper all converted to Power 
Pole connectors and a new Alinco DM-330MV power supply. Does anyone know 
if or how it can be changed to work on 220V AC? My K3 order date is June 
16th so I am looking forward to lots of fun when I retire the first day 
of January 2008.


W0CZ
Ken Christiansen
Fargo, ND 58102
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] RE: K3 Noise Blanker ahead or behind roofing filter? Plus my own answer to Field Day.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I would like to thank Geoff  GM4ESD, Wayne N6KR and Brett N2DTS for 
answering my noise blanker questions. I have decided to order a K3 and 
hope the noise blanker is good enough to fix my problem. I have other 
noises too that are not as bad as the TV so if I am lucky some of them 
may also be helped. I will be keeping my K2 for portable camping which I 
enjoy and the IC-746PRO for 2 and 6 meters. The power supply for the PRO 
should work well for the K3 if I install some power pole connectors. I 
am looking forward to working FD 1B QRP Battery as I have done for the 
last 6 years. That is my answer to the problem of CW operators not being 
popular with the local club. I usually go to a camp ground but this year 
I am thinking of setting up on my driveway by the street. Nothing would 
be used from my normal station and I think it would be fun to see how 
well it would work. Next year I still plan to use the K2 for camping and 
FD even if I have the K3.


73 and GL on FD
W0CZ   Ken
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[Elecraft] K3 Noise Blanker ahead or behind roofing filter?

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have K2 SN 1031 and an IC-746PRO. Last week my next door neighbor 
brought home a large screen TV that looks to be the rear projection 
type. I didn't pay much attention to it as they unloaded it but now find 
it puts out lots of QRN. It  puts out S9 on the PRO 60 HZ QRN on 20, 15, 
10 6 and 2 meters. Those are the bands I have antennas that work. The 
noise blanker in theK2 and the PRO both eliminate this bad QRN right 
down to the background noise :-)  when there are now strong signals on 
the band but when a strong station such as the W1AW code sessions come 
on 20 meters, (20 over 9 in ND), than the K2 using NB1 has problems 5 
KHZ or so either side of W1AW. NB2 has problems up to 10 KHZ either side 
of W1AW and the PRO has problems 15 KHZ either side of W1AW :-( . Is the 
noise blanker on the K3 ahead of the roofing filter or behind the 
roofing filter. If it is behind the roofing filter buying a K3 might put 
me back on the air :-)  but if it is ahead of the roofing filter 
than would I have the same problem as the K2 :-( ? I have looked at the 
FAQ part of the Elecraft K3 site and do not find the answer to this 
question. I just need a short answer so please do not start a long 
thread on my station or observations etc.


73 and thanks for the help.

W0CZ
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[Elecraft] MFJ-1788 Loop

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Subject:
[Elecraft] MFJ-1782 Loop Antenna?
From:
"Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date:
Wed, 18 Oct 2006 16:29:01 -0700 (PDT)

To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Hi Fred
I have a MFJ-1788 loop. I have wonderful results with it but
if the temperature is changing such as the sun shining on it then
it drifts and the SWR comes up to the point it will trip out the
SWR protection on the radio. You need the best version of
remote control and that does work fine. I run less than full
power and touch up the remote tuner if the environment causes
a change in temperature. I use the directional null for noise
reduction and that does work. That is the main reason I use
the loop as I also have a CL-33 up 22 ft, a G5RV and a
AV-18HT vertical. I am in a city and noise is a problem
There are times I can copy a station on the loop and not on
the rest of the antennas. I also wanted the antenna in case I
have to move to a location where I have to use a stealth
antenna. I have used it enough to know it will work and be
much better than no antenna for a stealth location. I also find
it is great as far as preventing TVI which is another plus for
stealth operation.
W0CZ  Ken

++
Has anyone tried, or using, a MFJ-1782 HF LOOP
Antenna - or homebrew of this?  


Some sites claim good HF success with this
small circular loop HF antenna.  I'm not a
fan of MFJ's quality, by a long shot - but owners
claim - with care, it works pretty well.

What do you think?  Is this a small stealth antenna
that would work?

Fred
N3CSY

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[Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

Hi from Fargo, ND and many camp sites.

This is the antenna I have used for the last 5 years in my camper with I 
feel excellent results. It is a 44 foot doublet (22 feet) on each side 
of center) with a feed line of  22 feet of 450 ohm window line. The 
center is supported by a 23 foot telescoping painter's handle with a 
hook at the top made out of an old paint roller. The ends are supported 
by 10 foot lengths of 3/4th inch PVC pipes to make an inverted vee.


This loads well with either my KAT2 or KAT100. I added a W2DU 1 to 1 
balun and I find the antenna so stable the settings the tuner picked 
from the last camp site usually work at the next camp site with no 
changes. I have a 1 foot jumper of RG8  between the tuner and the balun. 
This works as is on all bands except 30 and 80 meters. On 30 meters 22 
feet of feed line is a bad length and transforms the low impedance of 
what is a 30 meter dipole to a high impedance which gives the tuner 
trouble. I cut a jumper of 22 feet of 300 ohm twin lead and wound it 
into a coil with a 7 inch diameter. All my twin lead feed lines use 
alligator clips so to use 30 meters I just clip the additional 22 feet 
loop of feed line in series with the 450 ohm window line.


I have 22 foot extensions I can add to each side of the doublet to make 
it 88 feet for use on our 75 meter SSB net. These extensions have to be 
tied to a tree or other support but the 44 ft doublet is self supporting 
by the 23 foot painters handle on the hitch of my camper and the 10 foot 
PVC pipes which are supported by the rear bumper of the camper and the 
front bumper of my tow vehicle.


If  I want to work 160 meters or don't have a location where I can add 
the 22 foot extensions for 75 meters I have a loading coil and can tie 
the two sides of the 22 foot feed line together and use the loading coil 
to make a top loaded vertical which uses the frame of my camper as a 
counterpoise and that works about as well as a good mobile station.


I used to use a home made full wave quarter wave vertical on 20 meters 
which used the frame of the camper as a counterpoise. I thought it 
worked well  but in 2001 the 44 ft doublet was brought up here on this 
reflector. I built it and used both antennas for just two camping trips. 
The doublet was so much better than the vertical that I quit taking the 
vertical along. I have run QRP battery 1B for the last 5 field days and 
the weak point is me as an operator and not my station or antenna.


Last week end I was set up at Fort Ransom State Park, ND. I worked W1PID 
on 20 running 3 watts on a K1 and 88 foot doublet (I was running the 100 
watts). I QSYed to 30 meters and ran 5 watts on my end and had a 25 
minute QSO with K4AKC who was running a K1 and 4 Watts to a G5RV. When 
we got done CU2BV from the Azores called me and we had a 15 minute QSO 
down at 13 wpm and I was still running 5 watts.


I have been camping and portable for about 39 years and used many 
different rigs and antennas but nothing I ever had before has worked as 
well with as little effort on my part as the K2/100 and 44 ft doublet.


I hope more of you try this antenna and have as good luck with it as I 
have had.


73 from North Dakota where it is now 94 degrees F headed to -30 degrees 
F in just 6 months.



Ken W0CZ  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] MFJ HI-Q Loop 1788 Will not stay on frequency.

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I do a lot of camping and have used several portable antennas over the 
years. Two weeks ago I bought a MFJ-1788 Super HI-Q Loop. I have been on two 
camping trips with it and it does seem to get out and receive well. I used 
my K2/100 and made 46 contacts for a total of almost 15 hours of operating 
time. My problem is the antenna will not stay on frequency. It will tune on 
any frequency easily but the only time it will stay on frequency is in the 
middle of the night with no wind. I talked to MFJ and Tom recommended I 
tighten the spring on the capacitor. I did and it improved  but again this 
week end I saw it jump and drift. I had it tuned up on 14.058 and it dropped 
down to 14.007. Another time it jumped from 14.058 to 14.076. I know others 
are using this antenna so if you are using it do you have a problem with it 
jumping or drifting around in the band. I have noticed this problem on every 
band except during a cold, clear, calm night. If anyone has been able to fix 
this problem or if my problem is not normal please let me know.


73 and thank you.
Ken
W0CA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K2/100 sn 1031

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[Elecraft] Solved my dishwasher qrn problem

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

--- "Kenneth A. Christiansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I bought a Frigidaire dishwasher made by Elecvtrolux in January of 2005. 
It

is a model gld2450rds0. I did not realize it at first but it is the source
of my high QRN.


Today we got the repairman out from the store where we bought the 
dishwasher. The dishes were not being cleaned and I let the XYL do the 
complaining. I was in the ham shack and when the repairman started up the 
dishwasher after working on it over an hour there was no QRN. I asked him 
what he did and he said in the last part of 2004 they changed the design and 
used a motor with brushes in it. This motor prevented the cycles from 
changing properly and the fix was to install one of the older motors that 
did not have brushes. My noise level is now S1 instead of 10 DB over S9 so I 
am happy and having the rest of the cycles operating should do a better job 
on the dishes.


Glad to have this problem behind me.

Ken Christiansen W0CZ K2/100 sn 1031
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] Dishwasher QRN to my K2 sn 1031

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I bought a Frigidaire dishwasher made by Elecvtrolux in January of 2005. It
is a model gld2450rds0. I did not realize it at first but it is the source
of my high QRN. I used my IC-746PRO to make the following observations
because it will pick up AM but the interference is just as bad on my K2 sn
1031. The background noise was S5 on 20 meters with the AM mode, 9 kHz
filter and a dead frequency of 13990 selected. All cycles of the dishwasher
except the wash part have a noise level of S6 to S7 which is still something
I could live with. Every time the actual washing starts the noise jumps to
10 DB over S9 and stays there until it shuts down to pump out,  add water or
dry. I looked at the output of my IC746-PRO with the water fall of Digipan
and see a consistent pattern from about 300 Hz to 1500 Hz but while there
may be more 120 Hz spaced peaks in places on the spectrum there are also
other spacing. The peaks do not move as I change the VFO on the ICOM so it
is a broadband noise. I have a portable radio and find noise all the way
from 2 mHz to 20 mHz. The noise seems to get into the wiring and plumbing of
the house and drops off rapidly if I take the portable radio outside. If I
use Digipan with the  SSB mode then I do not see the peaks. I just see white
noise across the entire receiver spectrum.

Now I am hoping someone on this list may have some information about curing
the noise from this dishwasher. Can some sort of beads be added around the
power line or is there a filter that can be added. The dishwasher draws 9
amps so any filter would have to be able to handle the high current.

My K2 and I have been having trouble with this noise since January of 2005.
The noise is so much stronger than almost every signial on the band that the
band sound as though there is no activity. The reason we did not figure it
out sooner is that just starting the dishwasher does not start the noise. It
doesn't happen except when it is in the actual wash parts of the cycle.

Thank you for any help.

Ken Christiansen W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] J.T.O.A

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

I have been asked to put up a station for the local BSA troop to observe Ham
Radio on Saturday October 16th. My home shack is not usable so I plan to set
up my camper with the 23 ft center mast and 10 foot end supports for my 44
ft doublet fed with 22 ft of 450 ohm window twin lead. I will use my K2/100
sn1031 and KAT100 with a W2DU balun and my 105 Amp deep discharge battery
and an analog supply for power. I have had many camping CW contacts both QRP
and QRO with this set up. The location will be our Church parking lot near
the Boy Scout Xmas tree stand. This location has buried 110 VAC and is
several hundred feet from the nearest power line. Now I come to my problem.
The contest rules at ARRL call for a frequency of 14.070 MHZ for 20 and
3.590 MHZ for 80. I don't plan to use 80 but the 20 meter frequency is in
the middle of the PSK31 and Digital part of the band. Last year I tuned
around and never did hear any JOTA stations. I do have a microphone and
while I do not work much SSB that might be an option. I need your help to
let me know where the JOTA activity if any will be and will I be able to use
CW or has everyone moved to SSB. I could use some hints about working the
stations on SSB too as I don't have much experience with 20 meter SSB. There
might be some chance to work 40 meters too but in my experience we are so
far from the highly populated parts of the country, here in Fargo, ND, that
I expect 40 meters to be dead during the day.

Thanks for any ideas.

W0CZ Ken
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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