Re: [Elecraft] Man Hospitalized

2010-02-09 Thread Mike B


Grant Youngman wrote:
  Too good!! :-)
And too true!


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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Mike B
The biggest problem with kit building is that you typically get done far
too quickly.  That leaves you feeling empty and yearning for yet more
kits to build, and on and on...

73,
Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Mike B
Good evening, Steve.  As for item #2, you'll likely find that even with
a 100 AH battery, the voltage will drop rather quickly at 100 watts. 
And as the voltage drops, the current consumption will rise to keep the
output the same, even more rapidly draining the battery.  I would suggest:

1) consider using lower power. You'll likely find that running at 50
watts (or less, particularly on CW or PSK) will net you essentially the
same number of QSOs, at far less power consumption.

2) run 2 batteries in parallel (in this case, 12 volt batteries).  That
will help keep the voltage up by spreading the load across more than one
battery.

3) even if running parallel batteries, consider a battery booster from
MFJ or http://stores.tgelectronics.org/StoreFront.bok  I have not tried
either, but I think QST did a review of 2 models some time back.

By far the easiest (and most common) type of large battery to use is a
sealed lead acid.  Technically called Valve-Regulated Lead Acid, but
more commonly called gel cells or AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).  While
there are slight charging differences between gel  AGMs which need to
be observed, for our purposes here either will work the same.  These are
NOT automotive batteries, but rather true deep cycle batteries.  Perhaps
you already know this, but automotive batteries have many, thin lead
plates that give a lot of surface area.  This is great for sudden, short
periods of high current draw, like starting your car, but very bad for
long-term discharge (like leaving your headlights or radio on).  True
deep cycle batteries are essentially the opposite, made with fewer but
thicker lead plates, and generally poor at very high current discharges,
but great at running smaller loads long term.

Some AGM batteries on the market now will work as starting batteries,
too, but that's not relevant for our needs.

If you're on a tight budget, a car battery will work at low power for a
while, but you'll quickly want a better battery.  The batteries labeled
as deep cycle at the big stores generally are NOT deep cycle - it's
just marketing.  You'll likely have to go to a real battery store,
though the some of Optima line of batteries are deep cycle, and can be
found at Sears, among other shops.

The gel-  AGM-style batteries are sealed to the point where you can't
add water, but if over-charged will vent gas.  However, with a quality
charger, this is a non-issue and these batteries are approved for
in-home use (think electric scooters and wheelchairs).

This is an example of a quality, American-made AGM battery:
http://www.sunxtender.com/  We've used these at work for our remote
weather sites for the last 5 years or so, and have been quite happy with
them (no financial relation, yada yada yada).  The PVX-1040T size is one
we use; it's rated at around 100 AH (at a 20-hour rate), and tend to
cost around $230.  Not cheap, eh?  There are less expensive brands out
there, typically made in China.  I have zero experience with these.

This is a long email (sorry), but food for thought.  There are lots of
battery choices out there, but since you've picked the top rig, I
thought I'd show you one of the top batteries ;-)  Once you've got your
batteries picked out, get a quality charger.  There's no better way to
destroy any battery than to cook it (or chronically under-charge it)
than with a crappy charger.  I'd even venture to say that if you want to
save money on batteries now, put the money towards a good charger - it
will outlast at least a few sets of batteries.

If you already have a power supply, or simply as another option, West
Mountain Radio's Super PWRGate works well
(http://westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm).  It needs a power
source, but has a charging circuit and essentially works as an
uninterruptable power supply for your rig.  I bought one 3 or 4 years
ago, and it's done a great job of maintaining my batteries.

73,
Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Firmware updates at remote locations

2009-03-18 Thread Mike B
Would it be possible to start with one of the live CD Linux distributions, add
the K3 Utility and a folder/directory with the firmware files, then either
re-burn it all to a new, bootable CD, or (depending on the distribution) a thumb
drive?

That way, it wouldn't matter what was on the PC - as long as it could boot from
a CD or USB, you'd be set.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RIGblaster pro setup

2009-03-09 Thread Mike B
Hi, Tony.  If you're trying to use the RigBlaster for a digital mode
interface,  it's my understanding that it's not needed.  The K3 has a built-in
interface that eliminates the need for the Blaster.

  If anyone is using this combination of hardware, please advise the interface
  cable connections you are using.  Thanks.  I have been using the RIGblaster
  pro with my Kenwood TS-570D (has worked very well) and now need to construct
  a new interface cable for the RIGblaster pro to K3.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

2009-03-08 Thread Mike B
Congratulations, James!  It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be proud of.
 Heck, I even put it on my resume!  (I found out after being hired in my current
position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a definite
brownie point.)

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Where is it in the MANUAL???

2009-03-08 Thread Mike B
What step of the manual's instructions doesn't seem to be working for you?  I'm
sure there are several here willing to help, but it won't do you or us any good
to just recite the manual if some part of it isn't clear for you.

 For some reason nothing came about OUR query about the internal clock
 within the
 K3!!!
 
 Can someone please come up with something that is coherent and usable???
 
 How to set the hour/minute/sec to coincide with WWV???
 
 Jim/nn6ee

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] K3 Power calibration and current consumption

2009-02-27 Thread Mike B
FWIW, it's on pg 46 in my original Rev C1 (11/18/07) manual, so it's been around
for quite a while.

 ???  Calibration Procedures on page 48 of the Rev D1 Manual has Wattmeter
 Cal right after Synthesizer Cal and just before Transmitter Gain Cal.  Maybe
 you either have an old manual or missed it.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SSB for CW ops

2008-04-05 Thread Mike B
Have a computer headset with mic?  Plug it in the back, turn on the bias (if 
needed, but I think most computer mics are electret so need it) and give it a 
try.  If this interests you, try searching the archives for computer headset for 
 additional info.


I'm guessing that means hooking up a mike and giving it enough of a go to 
know whether everything is ok.


Any thoughts on the least expensive way to do this?


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] APP roll pins

2008-04-05 Thread Mike B
I've purchased an APP pack or two that instead of having real roll pins (as in a 
flat piece of metal rolled over on itself, having a bit of spring tension in the 
process), just a piece of tiny metal tubing.  While these slipped in place, they 
also tended to slip out of place.


I'm guessing that this is what many dissatisfied APP users have purchased, 
instead of getting a pack with real roll pins.


Dave G. wrote:
The APP kit I bought (some time ago) from PowerWerx contained the 
cheap crimper, anc 20 sets of 30A APP's including the roll pins...

In over three years I have NOT had a roll pin come out!!


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, assembly, use of DeoxIT/DeoxIT Gold

2008-04-03 Thread Mike B
There was a LOT of discussion on this list for this very topic last year.  Run a 
search on the archives to uncover everyone's thoughts.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY Operation without a Computer

2008-03-27 Thread Mike B

Mike Miller wrote:

The list of Operating Tips on web site..

RTTY Operation without a computer..

number 3. saysHold TEXT DEC and turn the text decoder  ??
what is the test decoder??.  


The Text Decoder is the hold function of the 0 (zero) button, labeled CWT for 
the tap function.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in 
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga. 
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end.  I have a West 
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered each terminal.  The 
Elecraft power cable kit is still in its bag, waiting for another project.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B

You either crimp or Solder - not both


While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why 
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather odd 
to make such a firm distinction.


If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work, I'll 
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll get 
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of power.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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[Elecraft] K3: Filter settings in memories

2008-03-12 Thread Mike B

Now it's my turn (again) to ask what is probably a stupid question.

From all the literature, the K3 is said to save filter settings in each memory 
entry, both general purpose and quick.  I *know* I saved the desired bandwidth 
for each of my 10 general purpose and 10 quick memories.


Now, however (and it may be just after the latest firmware upgrade), if I change 
the bandwidth to whatever (call it Y), then recall a memory, the saved 
bandwidth doesn't come up.  The bandwidth is still Y, and this applies to both 
types of memories.  It also doesn't matter if I stay on the same band, or switch 
bands.


I've been testing this with the memory entries I had saved from earlier (before 
the f/w upgrade), as well as some test entries made tonight, with the same results.


The new NORM/ALT1/ALT2 feature works nicely, BTW.

I have not tried rolling the f/w version back.

Is this just me, or is something else amiss?

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Question on K2 K3 100 Watt PA's

2008-03-10 Thread Mike B
Good evening, DW.  Yes, this has been asked before (and is a logical question to 
me), and made it into the FAQ.  I found 2 topics which apply.  No need to fill 
email in-boxes with what's already on the web, so just the links:


http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm#auxbus

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm#KPA3%20integration

Hope this answers you questions.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

DW Holtman wrote:

Hello,

I have a question which might not make much sense. I have seen the Web 
links to a couple of people who have remotely mounted a 100 watt amp 
from a K2 and an antenna tuner in an EC-2 enclosure.


Would it be possible to use the same remote amp/tuner to work with a K3? 
The specs are basicly the same, ie 10 watts in, 100 watts out. It would 
savbe a lot of $$$ if one remote amp/tuner could be used for two radios. 
I'm thinking the communication to the amp would be the problem, but not 
sure. Has this been brought up before?


Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tuner Operation Question

2008-03-05 Thread Mike B
Good morning, Lee.  Per the C1-3 Errata (Feb 1), CONFIG:TUN PWR was added to 
control the power level at which the TUNE button works, so that function is 
controllable.


However, the same errata states that, Note: TUN PWR does not pertain to ATU 
TUNE, which always uses 5 or 10 W and is internally controlled.


It would seem to me that if you can tune at 2 or 5 watts, there's no point in 
running it at any higher level.  Itune my remoted LDG autotuner at 2 watts, and 
could most likely crank it down some more.


It is getting harder to keep track of changes with all the errata scattered on 
the table.  I may have to use the electronic versions  create a master errata 
sheet instead of looking at individual pages.


Lee Buller wrote:


How does the K3 Tuner work?  Does it tune at a lower wattage?



73,

Mike
KW1ND


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Re: [Elecraft] Another source for Anderson PowerPole type connectors

2008-03-04 Thread Mike B
Beware!  This came up early last summer.  Read this posting on the poor quality 
 incompatibility of the Tyco copies.


http://www.nabble.com/Anderson-%22Power-Pole%22-connectors...-to14078568.html#a14078568

Once again, nothing beats the original.

Jim Sheldon wrote:

 A friend of mine found them in the April 2008 Mouser catalog.  The
Anderson type connectors are shown on pages 1284 -1285...   They now have
a posted type contact so you can attach the connector to a circuit board.

You can also go to www.mouser.com and go to mouser stock number 571-14459571
to open the first entry for the AMP Power Series... 


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] strange keyer problem (#5670)

2008-02-17 Thread Mike B

What rig?  Your subject line  message don't mention it.

Kirk Brown wrote:

When I switched from straight key to my paddles, I found one side of the
paddles would not work (in my case the dits). 



73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic for K3

2008-02-13 Thread Mike B

Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:
We have been using this pin out for microphones on our rigs since we 
introduced the K2 nine years ago.


And if nothing else, the K3 manual has been out since September or October. 
While we all waited (and continue to) for our K3s, there's been plenty of time 
to examine the diagrams and instructions to figure out just what will be needed 
to interface the K3 with our individual stations.  I'm not trying to be 
condescending, but even if the K3 had a completely new mic pinout, there's been 
plenty of time to prepare for it, if one so chose to do so.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3: shipping status

2008-02-11 Thread Mike B
Oh, man, now I've gone and created a cross-continent incident.  I wasn't worried 
about the KXV3, as I knew I'd get it one way or another.  My remark was based on 
a private email I had with another soon-to-be K3 owner who was also missing the 
transverter interface from his initial invoice.  My incorrect speculation wasn't 
meant to stir anything up, I assure you.


Many thanks to the entire crew at Aptos.  I built my sub-200 serial number K2 
back in the summer of '99, and ran an Elecraft table at hamfests for a couple of 
years in Idaho.  I hope to finally meet some of the staff at (my first ever) 
Dayton visit this year.


Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Mike,

We are absolutely shipping KXV3s.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Lead-Acid Battery Capacity (WAS: K3 : standby current)

2008-02-09 Thread Mike B
Good information, Ron.  Also, true deep cycle batteries are considerably more 
expensive than automotive batteries - you're paying for the lead.  Most 
batteries in common stores labeled deep cycle aren't - it's just marketing. 
With only a few exceptions (such as one of the Optima line), my rule of thumb is 
that if the battery lists any type of cranking amps rating, even if it also 
lists an amp-hour rating, it isn't a deep cycle.


We go through a fairly large number of deep cycle batteries at work (for remote 
weather stations), and any more our 100 AH batteries are costing us upwards of 
$250 each, and weigh about 70 pounds.  Now, these are American-made Concorde AGM 
batteries (I try to do my part to keep tax money in-country); Chinese copycat 
batteries are about $100 less.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
(Still counting the days for the K3...)
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[Elecraft] K3: shipping status

2008-02-09 Thread Mike B
Not to drag up more ill feelings, but where is Elecraft at in the last few days 
as far as order dates being ready to ship?  I know about the status page; I'm 
looking for who has been contacted in the last few days.  Per the status page, 
my 6/6  order date should be coming up by the end of this coming week.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: computer headset connection

2008-02-06 Thread Mike B
Well, interesting.  As Greg suggested, I'll definitely try it before I worry 
about wiring up an adapter.  That was handy of Aptos to use a stereo jack with 
the ring not connected, thus keeping a stereo plug from shorting the ring to 
ground if the jack were mono, and yet allowing a mono plug to also work.


I was trying to get a jump ahead, but I guess I'll just wait a couple more weeks 
and give it a try.


Thanks for the responses.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] So you think your K3 got special treatment?

2008-01-23 Thread Mike B

So you think your K3 got special treatment?  Check out this delivery method:

http://ducie2008.dl1mgb.com/news/index.php

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #266

2008-01-21 Thread Mike B
If I understand the system correctly, the first production run still has to 
include everyone who ordered in that time frame, but didn't place a deposit. 
Even when they hit May 14th or so of deposit orders (whatever the cutoff date 
was), they will then go back 3 weeks  start shipping all non-deposit orders.



Right, that blows my theory of 250 for the first prodn run! Beginning to 
look like 300 then.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KAT3 as RX-only

2008-01-20 Thread Mike B
OK guys, thanks.  That is what I had suspected, as I didn't see it diagrammed 
the way I was hoping to use it.  That's OK, though - I can still configure the 
K3 to operate the way I want it to via the KXV3.  Gotta love modularity.


Barry N1EU wrote:

Mike, I don't think the K3 will do what you think it will.  The non-transmit
antenna (ANT1/ANT2) can't be used by the main receiver, only the
subreceiver.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
K3 in February?  Maybe??
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[Elecraft] K3: KAT3 as RX-only

2008-01-19 Thread Mike B
I'm looking at the options for a RX-only antenna on a stock K3.  I understand 
that the  primary way of doing this is with the KXV3.  However, since I don't 
have a need for the transverter interfaces, or running a 2nd rig off the RX ANT 
OUT jack, I think the KAT3 will be more useful in the long run for me.


Per the FAQ, The second antenna on the KAT3 can also be set as an RX antenna in 
the menu configuration.  I take it this means that, e.g. I can TX on ANT1 and 
the K3 will switch over to ANT2 on RX.  Cool.  My concern is that I (or my kids) 
will accidentally switch the TX over to ANT2, and my planned RX-only (truly, 
RX-only) antennas will get fried.


Is it possible, via the menus, to make one of the KAT3's jacks as RX only, and 
not just RX?  I read through several emails back in the August 07 time frame 
concerning this topic, but I didn't see my specific question brought up.  Also, 
much of those conversations revolved around use of the second receiver.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 K3 Covers

2008-01-04 Thread Mike B
Ken - is it possible to have the Elecraft logo embroidered in?  Of course, that 
would require copyright approval from Aptos, but I think it would go a long way 
towards making the covers unique.


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

2008-01-03 Thread Mike B

Hello,

How is Elecraft pronounced?


Per their website, like Elegant and Craft.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] For Sale: Elecraft KX1 (price reduced) and Kenwood TH-G71A

2007-12-08 Thread Mike B
I have the above items for sale at http://home.comcast.net/~slackfan/index.html

Please reply directly, and not via the lists.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Re: K3: Reception below 500 kHz?

2007-12-04 Thread Mike B
Thanks for the information, everyone. I was just curious, as the FAQ only states
that coverage begins at 500 kHz.  As with many things in life, that can be read
more than one way (as I alluded to in my original posting).

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 2nd run priority via-a-vis deposit

2007-11-28 Thread Mike B
This had always been my understanding of the system.  I'm in the 2nd run, and
didn't put in a deposit at that time because, 1) I knew I wouldn't get the rig
any faster, and 2) I just wanted to hang onto my money for a little longer ;-)

I think a lot of the problem has been too many posters early on stating their
misimpressions as facts about the ordering process.  These fallacies just
continued to grow over time, taking on a life of their own.

Last week, we just saw how one email was misinterpreted by several here as
showing a rig had been shipped out of order.  Tempers  emails flew, when there
was no need for it.  I trust Wayne, Eric  the crew to make the finest rigs for
 the money, and in nearly 10 years, I've come to trust their business practices
as well.  They  their crew will do their best to get the rigs out the door as
quickly as possible, as close to order priority as possible.

While everyone would like the K3s to be moving out the door faster (including
everyone at Elecraft, I'm sure), continued public complaining about the
unchangeable process does no one any good.

Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

 We were taking great pains -not- to give this impression at Dayton,
 since we were already into the 2nd run. I apologize if there was
 confusion on this issue.
 
 I am very clear on this and made sure we kept everyone informed of what
 we were doing. Prior to Dayton we had already changed the web order form
 to reflect this change and we had also noted from the first day of
 orders that deposit priority for low serial numbers -only- applied to
 the first run numerous times on the reflector.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Poor Man's ESD Mat?

2007-11-26 Thread Mike B
Hit up Radio Shack in the morning - they have a kit with mat  strap.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Much OT - No practical solution

2007-11-25 Thread Mike B
You might look into a product designed to run conduit on top of walls.  I've
seen it on concrete block  plaster walls commonly, but I think it would work in
your case, too.  One brand is Wiremold (I think), and Home Depot  Lowes carry
it.  I'm sure lots of other suppliers do too.

There are a variety of fittings  boxes, all designed to allow electrical
outlets  wire runs to be safely run on the interior face of a wall.

I haven't had the need to price it, but it may not be inexpensive.  If it's an
idea that works for you, you might do one room at a time.

Just an idea; didn't know if you had looked into this already or not.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and 15M

2007-11-25 Thread Mike B
Absolutely.  I sold my primary HF rig (FT-857D) several months ago to raise cash
for the K3, and my only rig since then has been my KX1.  Handy rig, but I really
wish it would do 17 and/or 15 meters.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there was a 21 MHz option
 for the KX1? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K1 (and KX1)

2007-11-20 Thread Mike B
Just for future info, I use an 1120 for my KX1, though I think the 1060 Micro
case will also accommodate it.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Bus Adapter

2007-11-19 Thread Mike B
 What was the rationale behind a cutting edge (2007-08) product such as the
 Elecraft K3 being supplied with a RS232 interface in stead of a USB port?

When I built my current PC a year ago, I specifically looked for a motherboard
with a serial port. There are still a variety of products out there that use it,
despite what major PC manufacturers want you to believe.

If you're lacking a serial port, one can either purchase a serial port card for
under $20 (check http://www.newegg.com as one low price source) if you have a
desktop machine, or get a serial-USB adapter for a little more.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] DeoxIt and/or ProGold useage

2007-11-19 Thread Mike B
Since I was one of those who brought up the DeoxIT / ProGold usage, I'd like to
post the following report I received from another list member.  I hope he
doesn't mind, as he'll remain nameless, and I've removed a thing or two from the
report which might identify his major aerospace company.  I found the report
rather illuminating.

To save you from Googling, I believe cots CCA to simply be commercial
off-the-shelf circuit card assembly, i.e not a custom designed card for the
application.  VME/VXI buss refers to (I think) a series of common-sized cards,
or boards, used in a variety of equipment.

Investigation into the MCG lockup condition identified the cause to be a high
contact resistance from fretting corrosion.  The corrosion is a result of the
flash (~4 micro inches) gold plating on the DIN connectors not being greater
than 30 micro inches.  Regardless on the cots DIN connectors, Fretting corrosion
is corrosion that can occur on the load bearing contact surface between mating
material when gold plating has been worn through.  One of the contact failure
modes of electrical contacts is fretting corrosion.  The corrosion results in
unacceptable increases of contact resistance in mated connectors.  Fretting
corrosion occurs in separable contacts, when the contacting surfaces are
submitted to small amplitude movement (micro-motion) relative to each other.
This can be caused by vibration, shock, or thermal expansion.  One of the
symptoms for fretting can be identified where reseating of CCA’s in the system
results in clearing the failure mode.  Examination of the connector mating
surface under a scope will reveal a black residue (non-conductive oxide) on the
contacts.

snip picture of gold pins with black residue

This corrosion results in a high resistance contact area thus causing a failure
in the system.  The reseating of the CCA’s results in a scrubbing action that
removes a layer of the oxide where contact is made and the process starts again.

  One method used to inhibiting fretting corrosion is the use of lubricants.
This was recommended by our components engineer snip.  The lubricant reduces
friction, wear, and to some extent shields the surface from the air. The oxide
formation can be decreased by limiting available oxy­gen.  The lubricant/cleaner
we chose is from Miller-Stephensen, part number MS-383H with UV indicator.  The
UV indicator aids in the inspection process to insure coverage of the contacts.
 We also had our MP lab review the lubricant and agreed this was a good choice.

The lubricant was added after cleaning of the connectors with alcohol as
recommended by the lubricant supplier, since these were connectors that already
exhibited the corrosion.  After cleaning the lubricant was added to the
connector pin side and mated to the VXI/VME interconnect chassis.

Conclusion is all ground programs utilizing DIN connectors, VME/VXI buss, or
cots CCA’s in these chassis should use the connector lubricant to reduce the
risk of intermittent failures from fretting corrosion.  Connector design
guidelines are found on the components engineering webpage.  The lubricant is
not recommended for airborne applications.  Airborne applications need to
specify the minimum gold thickness allowed per the components engineering
webpage guidelines.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] DeoxIt and/or ProGold useage

2007-11-19 Thread Mike B
I should have stated that, other than names and two pictures, that was the
entirety of the report I received.

Also, as Don pointed out, there's undoubtedly a lot more to the story than the
short summary report I was forwarded, so it's still left up to the individual
user to decide for themselves.

I still haven't decided if I'll use it or not.  If I had some on hand already,
that would probably sway my decision.

73

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] RG6 Snap Seal connectors

2007-11-18 Thread Mike B
Thanks to all for the information on compression tools for the RG6 cable.

Now to score some direct burial cable scraps from the cable guy...

73

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Transmission line loss

2007-11-16 Thread Mike B
First of all, I have to congratulate the posters in the earlier thread on line
loss, etc., for prompting me to actually get my calculator  ARRL Handbook out
and read up on transmission line loss, dB calculations, etc.

My interest has come up as I'm planning on installing a flag pole vertical in my
yard, due to CCRs, and the coax run will be around 100 feet outside the house,
plus 28 feet inside.

Here's my take on line loss, and please correct me if I'm wrong.  For today's
discussion, let's assume the power is 100 watts, total run is 100 feet, that I
can tune this vertical up to 50 MHz, and the SWR at the antenna hits 5:1 (it
won't, as I'll have a remote tuner there, but just for discussion...).

Davis RF-brand RF-9914F Bury-Flex has a published matched line loss of 1.1
dB/100 ft at 50 MHz.  Per the Handbook, a 5:1 SWR at the load will add around
1.2 dB of loss, for a total of 2.3 dB over the run, for about 60% efficiency.
(I'm still fuzzy on the percentage calculations.)

A variety of brands of RG-8X have a matched line loss of 2.0 dB at 50 MHz per
100 ft.  A 5:1 SWR adds 1.7 dB, for a total of 3.7 dB loss, for a little over
42% efficiency.

Am I reading something wrong here, or is the 1.4 dB difference between the two
cables correct?  Can you extrapolate that to an S-meter at 6 dB/S-unit?  If so,
I'd say the 1.4 dB would be barely noticeable on the receiving end at best, and
the extra cost of lower loss coax isn't worth the money.  Operation at HF would
be even less of an difference than at 50 MHz.

I realize there may be other considerations as to the type of coax used that
could sway one's decision.  In my case, I want direct buriable, and I haven't
come across any 8X that allows this.  Longer runs and higher SWR would obviously
sway the argument as well.

RG-6 seems to be in between the RG-8X and Bury-Flex as far as loss, but the cost
may be much better (from what I've read here).

In my searching, I came across a pretty handy document from Cisco relating to dB
loss and gain:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/tech/tk722/tk809/technologies_tech_note09186a00800e90fe.shtml
Thanks for your input.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 wish list

2007-11-13 Thread Mike B
I (and others) have been hoping for something like this since the K2 came out.
Elecraft introduced the T1, which is fine for QRP use, but sometimes you've
gotta crank the power up a bit.

If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the KAT3
priced competitively, I think it would sell well.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 As a newcomer to major Elecraft items I hope it is not presumptuous of me  to 
 add to the wish list. My small station layout means that a remote ATU is much 
  more effective than an inboard one. Therefor the tuning part of the KAT3 as 
 an  external unit (with say a 25 to 35 ft power and control cable) AND the  
 antenna switching functions transferred to the KANT3 in the main rig would be 
  
 very attractive, especially to accommodate a beam for 6m.  When I get my K3  
 I 
 will be stuck with a third party auto ATU and manual switching for 6M.
  
 I didn't order till batch three in mid July, so lets hope the $ stays at 2+  
 per £ until the New Year. I have been amazed at the close contact available 
 via  this reflector. Keep up the good work Eric.
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[Elecraft] Anyone using DeoxIT Gold?

2007-11-10 Thread Mike B
I know this topic has come up before, but is anyone actually using DeoxIT Gold
on their K3?  (See http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f)

Past discussions here have stated that it's the appropriate product in their
lineup to use, but is anyone actually using it?  Is it worthwhile?  If anything,
I think I'd just get the $5.95 2 mL squeeze tube.

73,

Mike Boice
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] K3: supplied power cable specs?

2007-10-23 Thread Mike B
Just out of curiosity (as I sit here revamping my station's power system), what
gauge and length is the power cable supplied with the K3?

I see it has Power Poles installed on one end - is the other unterminated?

Thanks and 73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Hexkey waiting on bench, due to warning

2007-09-19 Thread Mike B
If this is the same stuff I'm thinking of, in addition to Rug Gripper as
another fellow posted, it's available in smaller rolls in the housewares section
of stores like Wal-Mart.  It's marketed as a type of drawer liner.  I've also
seen it in the hardware stores, and I also once saw a sleeping bag with a 12 or
so band of the material around the center - marketed as a way to keep your bag
from sliding around the tent floor at night.

There are different thicknesses and levels of how bumpy it is, for lack of a
better term.  I have one type (sold as a rug keeper), but it slides on my
varnished desk top with the HexKey.  I'm sure it's primarily me and excessive
hand movement, but it very well may work great for others.

One thing to keep in mind, too, is how much contact you have with the paddles.
If you just barely graze the outer edge of the paddles, you'll have a fair bit
more leverage than someone whose thumb tip rests on the paddles' screws.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I got a small swatch of a rubberized waffle like padding - you can see  
 through the mesh like a screen - and it stops the 'scoot' really great.

Just my ramblings...

73,

Mike KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Looking for static dissipative bench pad

2007-09-15 Thread Mike B
Looking over the K3 assembly equipment list, I see that I have everything but a
static dissipative pad.  This is for bench use, so a 24x24 up to 24x36 or so
pad would be sufficient.  Googling around, I find models from $15 to over $100.

I only need it sporadically for hobby use, so don't want to spend a lot on one.
 I'm leery of the $15 models off Amazon, but they may be good enough for my use.

Anyone have a recommendation on a quality but relatively inexpensive model?

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for static dissipative bench pad

2007-09-15 Thread Mike B
Thanks for the link, Ken.  It mentions a wrist strap, but I can't tell from the
picture if it's got a lead to run to ground. Any idea if it does?

73,

Mike KW1ND

Ken N9VV wrote:
 I like the tools and options from Cyberguys. Here is a nice pad for $28
 http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?productID=451
 de ken n9vv
 
 
 Mike B wrote:
 Looking over the K3 assembly equipment list, I see that I have
 everything but a
 static dissipative pad.  This is for bench use, so a 24x24 up to
 24x36 or so
 pad would be sufficient.  Googling around, I find models from $15 to
 over $100.
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for static dissipative bench pad

2007-09-15 Thread Mike B
Pardon my foolishness - I see the description states it has a grounding lead.
I've seen similar products elsewhere, but for $10 - $20 more, so this might be
the ticket.

Thanks, Ken.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for static dissipative bench pad

2007-09-15 Thread Mike B
Another list member emailed me that Radio Shack carries a kit for $24.99.  It is
their number 276-2370 and is 26 by 24 inches.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Charging gel cells for my K2 with regulated PS???

2007-09-15 Thread Mike B
 If it's truly a gel cell (and not sealed lead acid)

Gel cells are considered to be SLAs (sealed lead acid).  I assume you meant a
flooded lead acid, which has the ability to vent if charged quickly, as well
as have the water and/or electrolyte replenished.

Among other types, gel cells are also in the VRLA family (Valve Regulated Lead
Acid), but are still considered SLAs.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Elecraft news story

2007-09-14 Thread Mike B
This story is a couple years old, and has probably already had a bazillion
comments on this list in its day, but I just found it and thought it was
interesting.

http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/archive/2005/May/15/biz/stories/01biz.htm

There are even vague hints about the K3 in it.

73,

Mike KW1ND
(A K3 owner-in-waiting who doesn't feel the need to fill the list with childish
rants about waiting times)
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Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: K3 vs Yaesu FT-450AT

2007-08-20 Thread Mike B
 For some reason the only can design
 yellow/orange displays - they all look the same.

While I have since sold it, I do feel compelled to state that the FT-857 (
FT-897) has many colors selectable, in oranges, blues, reds and probably another
one or two I'm forgetting.


73,

Mike KW1ND
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[Elecraft] FS: West Mountain Radio Plug Play RigBlaster

2007-07-30 Thread Mike B
I've had this about a year, and haven't used it in almost that long (didn't
really get into using digital modes).  It worked fine, and is in great shape.

West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new.  This is the data plug version,
with USB computer connection.  It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if your
rig allows it.  It includes the CAT cable for Yaesu FT-100, -100D, -817, -857(D)
and -897(D).  Other cables are available from WMR, or you can make your own (the
RigBlaster CAT connection is just a 1/8 stereo plug; data plug is hard-wired).
 For radio compatibility, see http://westmountainradio.com/pnpradiomatrix.htm
For general information, see http://westmountainradio.com/RIGblaster.htm  $110 +
$13 for CAT cable new, asking $80 including first class shipping.

Please contact me off list.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] FS: West Mountain Radio Plug Play RigBlaster

2007-07-30 Thread Mike B
The RigBlaster has been sold.

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[Elecraft] FS: RigBlaster books

2007-07-24 Thread Mike B
Cleaning up a little...

For Sale:

1) West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new.  This is the data plug version,
with USB computer connection.  It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if your
rig allows it.  It includes the CAT cable for Yaesu FT-100, -100D, -817, -857(D)
and -897(D).  Other cables are available from WMR, or you can make your own (the
RigBlaster CAT connection is just a 1/8 stereo plug; data plug is hard-wired).
 For radio compatibility, see http://westmountainradio.com/pnpradiomatrix.htm
For general information, see http://westmountainradio.com/RIGblaster.htm  $110 +
$13 for CAT cable new, asking $80 including first class shipping.

2) HW-8 Handbook, by Michael Bryce WB8VGE, first edition (1991).  Described
as, A collection of articles on the modification of the Heath HW-7, HW-8 and
HW-9 QRP CW transceivers.  Cover  pages in good shape, no dog ears, a few
handwritten notes inside.  $10 including first class shipping.

3) Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur,  by Wes Hayward W7ZOI and Doug
DeMaw W1FB, ARRL, copyright 1986.  Highly respected guide frequently quoted
here.  Cover somewhat worn, pages in good shape, no dog ears.  $12 including
first class shipping.

4) QRP Classics,ARRL, first edition, copyright 1990.  The famous red cover
QRP handbook, with lots of classic designs  reference material.  Cover  pages
in good shape, no dog ears.  $12 including first class shipping.

Please reply direct, not to the list.  Operators are standing by :)

73,

Mike KW1ND
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[Elecraft] Re: FS: RigBlaster books

2007-07-24 Thread Mike B
All 3 books are sold, but the RigBlaster is still looking for a new home.

 Cleaning up a little...
 
 For Sale:
 
 1) West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new.  This is the data plug version,
 with USB computer connection.  It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if 
 your
 rig allows it.  It includes the CAT cable for Yaesu FT-100, -100D, -817, 
 -857(D)
 and -897(D).  Other cables are available from WMR, or you can make your own 
 (the
 RigBlaster CAT connection is just a 1/8 stereo plug; data plug is 
 hard-wired).
  For radio compatibility, see http://westmountainradio.com/pnpradiomatrix.htm
 For general information, see http://westmountainradio.com/RIGblaster.htm  
 $110 +
 $13 for CAT cable new, asking $80 including first class shipping.
 
 Please reply direct, not to the list.  Operators are standing by :)
 
 73,
 
 Mike KW1ND

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[Elecraft] K3: No sound card interface required?

2007-07-22 Thread Mike B
OK - my experience with digital modes is really limited, so pardon me
for asking me this probably lame question.

Since the K3 has an isolated sound card interface, this will
*completely* replace the interface I currently use to run digital from
my PC to an HF rig?

I'm pretty sure it does, but just want to make sure before I put my
interface (West Mountain Radio data jack Plug  Play) up for sale.

73,

Mike, KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1: Ghost in the display

2007-07-17 Thread Mike B
Mine has always done it too, and I think I've read of others commenting
on it as well.

73

Mike, KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Spilling the HF beans .....

2007-07-13 Thread Mike B
Gentlemen, not to be a list cop, but good grief.  Eric closed this
thread over a month ago.  Let it die, or take it to some Yahoo group.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - my history of zero beating

2007-07-12 Thread Mike B
 I don't know what the fascination is with zero beating the guy
 you're calling.  

Although my elmer told me of similar tales when he was starting out, he
taught me that the purpose of at least near zero-beating was to not
take up more bandwidth than necessary.  You're not running a full-duplex
conversation in CW, and so sharing 1 kHz or less is entirely adequate.

He also taught me, however, that is was your polite obligation to tune
around your transmit frequency a bit to listen for any takers who
weren't quite on your frequency.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Simple Way to Determine Condition of K2's Battery?

2007-06-25 Thread Mike B
Sounds to me like you got real lucky.  I'm sure that some capacity has
been lost if you initially discovered it at 7 volts, but it seems as
though it's recovered pretty well, considering.

I'm sure others will pop in with a better answer to your question (as in
quick  easy), but I will say that if you're looking for a new shack
gadget that can be used around the house ( car), check out a West
Mountain Radio CBA (Computer Battery Analyzer).  They're around $110,
but work great.  I purchased one for work, and have been very happy with
it.  I've used it on some personal batteries from time to time, and
would have bought one myself if I hadn't justified work needing one ;-)

In fact, it was the CBA that told me my K2 battery was pretty much shot.

73,

Mike KW1ND

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Is there a quick  easy method of determining the approximate condition
 of a K2's KBT2 battery?

 By the way, something I did this morning, was shut the power supply off
 for a half day. When I turned the rig on after having no applied
 charging voltage for six hours, the displayed battery voltage read 12.7
 volts.

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Re: [Elecraft] Comparing SLAs

2007-06-24 Thread Mike B
While I can't speak from any knowledge of the Rhino brand, considering
its low price, there's a very good chance it's from China.  The price v.
performance question on batteries has been bugging me at work lately.

We use 104 AH Concorde AGM batteries, which have risen in the last few
years from around $165 to $240 each.  Chinese versions currently run
around $130.  While short-term testing may indicate that the Chinese
versions match (or possibly exceed) capacity specs of the American-made
Concordes, the bigger question is how reliable and stable they are down
the road.

As with many products today, I think part of the battery price
difference (assuming the Chinese-made products are of the same quality
as American-made) is labor, a big part is also the regulatory burden.
While many will argue that American environmental regulations are
excessive, expensive and make it harder to compete globally, I've read
some stories of extreme pollution, poor hazardous waste disposal and
wretched working conditions in China - but it keeps their prices down.
Whether any of these issues apply to the Rhino batteries, I can't say,
but there's always that suspicion.

As was mentioned here last week, there's also the question of ultimately
 who's getting a paycheck for dinner tonight.  I work as a contractor
for the federal government, and to be honest, I'm quite leery of
spending tax payer's money on foreign-made goods when I can get that
item from an American source.

And so while I've strayed away from Elecraft topics (though not
entirely), you're right to pause and question what may be false economy.

And now back to our regularly scheduled waiting for the K3 to arrive...

73,

Mike KW1ND

Scott Richardson wrote:
 I used a 5Ah Powersonic PS-1250 gel cell to power my K1 for a few years
 before it faded. In shopping for a replacement, I find they're about
 $25, while another battery with the same dimensions and capacity made by
 Rhino sells for $8.
 
 I'm assuming the Powersonic is a better battery, but I don't mind a
 small reduction in performance if I can get 3 batteries for the price of
 1. Is this a smart savings?
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1: antenna wire

2007-06-16 Thread Mike B
Mike wrote:
 Are there any recommendations for wire rather than the suggested Wireman 541? 
  The manual suggests WM 541, but also says it's #26 wire.  The WM site says 
 it's #14.

Maybe there's a typo there, or maybe the Wireman's changed his numbers.
 His site currently lists the 26 ga. as #534.  It's nice stuff, and I
use it for my KX1.  I also have a 22 ga. teflon wire slung up across 2
trees at work for lunch time QSOs.  I personally don't like to work with
the teflon jacketed wire - too slippery (though that probably would be
good for pulling through trees) and tangles  twists at least as bad as
other wire I've used.

I didn't buy the Pomona dual binding post to BNC adapter; I bought a
generic one from Jameco Electronics
(http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1storeId=10001catalogId=10001productId=99354).
 Maybe I was buying something else from them at the same time, but I
don't recall - it was over 3 years ago.  I would think the Pomona is
better made, but this one has worked fine.

73,

Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Pelican case size for KX-1?

2007-06-11 Thread Mike B
Mike Cizek W3MC wrote:
 What size Pelican case do folks use for the KX-1??  I seem to remember
 it is the 1060

Yes, there's a web site out there with pix of the 1060, but I chose to
go with the 1120.  It's a small version of their larger cases, without a
clear body.  Plenty of room for extras, and still smaller than a lunch
box and not too heavy.  It has a foam pad in the lid, and I pull it out
to store quick ref cards, sheet or two of copy paper, etc. behind it. A
big reason for my choosing it this model was to protect the encoder.

I have 2 of Pelican's smaller clear (Micro) cases, and have been quite
happy with them.  Over the years, they've held a variety of items, from
my HT, GPS receivers, Sirius satellite receiver and more. Great products.

73,

Mike KW1ND
Karns, Tennessee
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Re: [Elecraft] Where R made ? Power Pole

2007-06-10 Thread Mike B
Just to clarify - from what I've read, the K3 (since it doesn't count as
a kit you're alluding to), is also entirely of US origin.  Obviously,
it's impossible to get all the individual components from the US, but
the design, PCB manufacture as well as SMD-mounting, etc., are all done
in California.

Jack Brindle wrote:
 Let me correct that. Elecraft Radio kits.
 
 But, today what is not made in China?

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[Elecraft] FS: K2 KAT100 *SOLD*

2006-05-11 Thread Mike B
Thanks for the interest (and couple of scammers...), but both units have
been sold and are on their way to a happy home in Illinois.

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] FS: K2 KAT100

2006-05-09 Thread Mike B
The items are still for sale.

FOR SALE: K2 # 185 and KAT100, preferably together but I'm flexible.  My
K2 has given me several years of great, dependable service but it's time
to free up some assets to try other avenues.  My K2 has never been
abused in any way (such as extreme SWR, over voltage, rain, etc.), and I
don't smoke.

It's had all the important Elecraft-recommended performance mods and
Alerts applied, including the “A to B” upgrade.  It has the KAF2 audio
filter/real-time clock, KAT2 internal ATU, and KSB2 SSB modules
installed and KBT2 internal battery kit (everything but the battery –
it's old and you don't want it).  Although not installed, I'm including
the FWK2MCUIO set (main IC version 2.04P and IOC version 1.09) and FW
SSB (version 1.08B) which will make the rig ready for the K2-100 and
60-meter conversions.

The KAT100 is FULLY ASSEMBLED BUT UNTESTED – I just never got around to
buying the K2-100 amp kit to finish testing.

Included are original manuals (including accessory manuals) for each,
and power cables with Anderson Power Pole connectors.

Lots of pictures are available at http://home.comcast.net/~slackfan/
Email me with any questions.

My costs for the K2, accessories and upgrades were over $900; new today
is over $1000.  Will sell the K2 for $650 plus real cost shipping and
everything is ready to plug and play right out of the box.  The KAT100
is less than one year old, never used, and sells new for $240 – will
sell for $200 including continental US shipping.  Buy both for $800
including continental US shipping. Payment via money order or PayPal.
Contact me off list, please.

Mike Boice
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] FS: K2 KAT100

2006-05-03 Thread Mike B
I apologize if this posts twice, but it seems to have never made it to
either list.

FOR SALE: K2 # 185 and KAT100, preferably together but I'm flexible.  My
K2 has given me several years of great, dependable service but it's time
to free up some assets to try other avenues.  My K2 has never been
abused in any way (such as extreme SWR, over voltage, rain, etc.), and I
don't smoke.

It's had all the important Elecraft-recommended performance mods and
Alerts applied, including the “A to B” upgrade.  It has the KAF2 audio
filter/real-time clock, KAT2 internal ATU, and KSB2 SSB modules
installed and KBT2 internal battery kit (everything but the battery –
it's old and you don't want it).  Although not installed, I'm including
the FWK2MCUIO set (main IC version 2.04P and IOC version 1.09) and FW
SSB (version 1.08B) which will make the rig ready for the K2-100 and
60-meter conversions.

The KAT100 is FULLY ASSEMBLED BUT UNTESTED – I just never got around to
buying the K2-100 amp kit to finish testing.

Included are original manuals (including accessory manuals) for each,
and power cables with Anderson Power Pole connectors.

Lots of pictures are available at http://home.comcast.net/~slackfan/
Email me with any questions.

My costs for the K2, accessories and upgrades were over $900; new today
is over $1000.  Will sell the K2 for $650 plus real cost shipping and
everything is ready to plug and play right out of the box.  The KAT100
is less than one year old, never used, and sells new for $240 – will
sell for $200 including continental US shipping.  Buy both for $800
including continental US shipping. Contact me off list, please.

Mike Boice
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Antenna Wire

2005-07-23 Thread Mike B

Scott Walker wrote:

I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated wire 
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas.  Help me narrow it 
down.  If you have bought the stuff, who did you buy it from?


http://radioworks.com also carries it.

--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] Solar Charger

2005-07-19 Thread Mike B

David N. wrote:

Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my
K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel


Same setup here.

The design of the KBT2 does not regulate voltage - it just regulates a 
small current to float charge the battery.  It's specifically designed 
for an external, approximately 14 volt supply.


If you want to charge the 2.9 AH battery up fast, by all means you can 
connect it directly to the PV panel, but you must monitor the battery 
voltage as it will try to climb very high.  The voltage must be 
regulated - a common method is to use a small charge controller such as 
the Micro M+ from SunLogic (owned by a ham) 
(http://www.seslogic.com/microm+.html) or Don Brown (I think that's the 
fellow - he offered it here again just in the last day or two).


My older Micro M is external - I used one of the transverter holes to 
add a coaxial jack, clearly separated from the main power, that runs 
direct to the battery.  The charge controller has to bypass the resistor 
and diode included in the KBT2 kit and see the battery directly.  I've 
heard that others have added the Micro M internally to the K2 lid, but I 
haven't seen one.


Some hams also have used a zener diode to clamp the voltage down.  This 
means, however, that the zener must dissipate the excess power, and may 
get warm.  I've never tried this method.


Hope this helps.

--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?

2005-07-16 Thread Mike B

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Not exactly for your back-packing needs. YIKES!

PVX-1040T Concorde 12 Volt 100 Amp Hour, BCI Group 27, valve regulated sealed lead acid battery. 65 LBS 


Naw, but that's not what the original poster was looking for.  Switching 
to these batteries is actually a little easier for us at work now.  Our 
prior type's handle allowed us to carry one battery in each hand - these 
have a different handle so we can only carry one at a time.  Darn. ;-)

--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] Re: What battery to use?

2005-07-15 Thread Mike B
Something to keep in mind when you desire your battery to have a 
relatively long life.  Taking out 50% of the capacity will, in general, 
seriously shorten a battery's life as compared to only drawing it down 
to 80%.  Most renewable energy systems shoot for the 70 - 80% mark.


Since we're talking emergency battery operation here, it can be assumed 
that you'll likely be drawing the batteries down quite a bit before a 
recharge.  Higher capacity batteries are always better - other than in 
size  weight.


My suggestion is to do this right.  Don't use any kind of flooded 
battery (with removable caps to add water), or maintenance-free 
flooded batteries - same internally but you can't add water.  True 
maintenance-free batteries are either gel or AGM.  Gel batteries can 
supposedly handle really deep discharges better, but I wouldn't worry 
about that.  Good AGM batteries beat gel in every other respect.  Some 
manufacturer's charts show more discharge-charge cycles for their gel 
than competitor's AGMs, but from what I've heard in real-world 
scenarios, AGMs are more robust and actually hold up longer.


Concorde AGM batteries came out clearly as the best AGM in the months of 
on-line research I did when recommending new batteries for work, and 
their price was comparable to anything else out there.  No relation, but 
http://thesolar.biz/Concorde_Battery.htm has one of the best prices out 
there for the 100 and 105 Ah Concorde batteries.


Hope this helps a little.

--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] Another Battery Question

2005-07-15 Thread Mike B
Yeah, life gets in the way sometimes.  My first recommendation is to 
remove the battery from the K2 - no need to tempt fate.  A sealed lead 
acid battery, in reasonable health, can probably go up to 6 months at 
normal room temps before needing to be recharged.  Charge it fully, pull 
it out  stick it on a shelf somewhere, and mark your calendar.  Mark it 
for 4 or 5 months, if you want to be safe.  Colder temps reduce the 
self-discharge rate, higher temps dramatically shorten it.


Now may be the time to invest in a small PV (photovoltaic; solar) panel 
and charge controller.  Up to 5 watts, oriented south at a tilt equal to 
your latitude, coupled with a charge controller like Don Brown (I think 
that's the fellow) offers here, or the Micro M+ 
(http://www.seslogic.com/microm+.html), or Morningstar's SunGuard 
(http://store.solar-electric.com/sg-4.html).  I have no connection to 
any of these vendors, other than having a Micro M for 6 or 7 years, and 
using other models of Morningstars at work.


--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] Good deal on Edsyn solder suckers

2005-03-18 Thread Mike B
While doing a variety of updates for ol' K2 #185, I went searching for 
the highly recommended Edsyn AS196 solder sucker.  By far the best deal 
I could find was from EAE Sales (http://eaesales.com/items.htm) for $16. 
 Bruce was friendly  prompt.  Though he deals in a lot of surplus 
equipment, the AS196 was new, but he doesn't have many left at the 
current price.


No connection or affiliation, just a happy customer passing along a good 
deal.


The next best deal I found (about a month ago) was for the 'standard' 
Edsyn model, DS017, for $9 from an eBay vendor.  I no longer have the 
URL, but a quick search should turn it up.

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73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] K2 PLL Temp Comp mod kit parts question

2005-02-26 Thread Mike B
I recently purchased the K2 PLL Temp Comp mod kit, and it came with Rev 
D (3 Feb 04) instructions.  A couple places in the instructions mention 
replacing L31 (originally 10uH, which my rig has) with a 12 uH inductor.


Yet the parts list states it should be a 10 uH, and I was shipped a 10 uH.

Which is right?  Considering the instruction sheet is over a year old, I 
would have thought any typos would have been caught by now.

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73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] Spectrogram in Linux

2005-02-13 Thread Mike B

Just a quick note, and I apologize if this has been mentioned before.

I've been fiddling with Baudline (spectrum analysis software for Linux, 
among other OS's), but couldn't figure out how to get the simple 
frequency markers like you can get in Spectrogram.


For kicks, I tried running Spectrogram version 5.17 (last free version) 
under Linux, via CrossOver Office, version 3.0.1.  It works great.  I 
can't get a full screen, but that's most likely due to my laptop's video 
card.


Just wanted to mention this for the record.

FWIW, Linux here is Slackware 10.0, with some -current updates.
--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread Mike B

1400 an older serial #?  Young whipper snapper!

Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's 
serial number. 


--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND  K2 # 185 (in the middle of A to B mods)
Karns, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] agm battery info

2005-02-03 Thread Mike B

David A. Belsley wrote:
would like to get an agm battery with at least a 100 aH rating (group 
31), preferably a Concorde


Ironically, I've been shopping for the exact same batteries over the 
last couple of days for work.  I don't know shipping, and I have no 
affiliation with them, but check 
http://thesolar.biz/Concorde_Battery.htm (PVX-1040T $140; PVX-1080T $150).


You probably already know this from your research, but ensure you get a 
charger spec'd for AGMs, though the 'flooded' setting on SOME chargers 
will also work.


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73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] Parallel line lightning arrestors

2004-11-14 Thread Mike B
In a painfully slow, round-about way, I'm getting a Cebik 44' doublet 
put up.  I'm curious if anyone is familiar with the ICE brand of 
lightning arrestors 
(http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html#2)?


I'm familiar with PolyPhaser products, too, but the ICE equipment sounds 
well-built  good for the job, too.

--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
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[Elecraft] Re: Parallel line lightning arrestors

2004-11-14 Thread Mike B
Thanks for the replies, fellas.  I had overlooked the impedance range of 
the arrestor; LB's figures show 2, possibly 3 bands out of range of the 
arrestor with his computer model.  With my luck, it would be more like 5 
or 6 bands ;-)


I may instead go with a simpler spark plug model, just to bleed static, 
and/or a knife switch.


Thanks for the feedback.  LB lives only a few miles from me, but I hate 
to bug such a busy man.  It's so much easier to ask the list.


In a painfully slow, round-about way, I'm getting a Cebik 44' doublet 
put up.  I'm curious if anyone is familiar with the ICE brand of 
lightning arrestors 
(http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html#2)?


I'm familiar with PolyPhaser products, too, but the ICE equipment sounds 
well-built  good for the job, too.


--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
Behold the power of the penguin
Reclaim Your Inbox!  http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird/

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[Elecraft] FS: Stealth Amateur Radio book

2004-07-13 Thread Mike B
For Sale: Like new ARRL Stealth Amateur Radio book by Kirk 
Kleinschmidt, NT0Z.  Chapters cover stealth antennas, mobile operation, 
qrp rigs, handling interference and more. Cover price $15 plus shipping, 
my price $12 including first class shipping to US (slightly more to 
anywhere else).


Please contact me off list.
--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND
Karns, TN
Behold the power of the penguin


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