Re: [Elecraft] Post to the group

2013-01-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I don't agree with that -- I think the moderator(s) keep attacks to a 
minimum, if that's what you mean by flames.


Some people think a flame is a difference of opinion.  I don't think 
that's the case -- this is a discussion group -- people discuss.


Beyond that, I don't mind if people go off list, but I hope most 
universally interesting stuff stays on the list.


73-

Nick, WA5BDU

-- no flame intended.

On 1/28/2013 6:40 AM, briana wrote:

OK Bill, here is a group posting.

Posting to the group here runs the risk of frequent and protracted 
flames.  Thus, I often post to individuals instead.


73 de Brian/K3KO



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Re: [Elecraft] Is the K3 a fun radio to operate ?

2013-01-16 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I guess you should ask yourself what controls need to be accessible 
right in front of you without menus.


I mainly operate CW.  Here's what I can access immediately without 
hitting menu:  keyer speed, sidetone pitch  level, power output, IF 
shift / bandwidth / filter selection, preamp / attenuator, NR, NB, 
RIT/XIT, VFO B, AGC, SPOT, RF  AF gain, ATU tune, keyer memories.


There's more, but you get the idea.  I also have four macro key 
functions programmed to make some quick configuration changes with a 
single press.


My previous rig was an FT-1000.  It had lots of knobs and essentially no 
menus.  I didn't think I lost anything as far as quick access to needed 
functions when I upgraded to the K3.


73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] need help with hiss on ssb receive

2012-11-25 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Could Audacity do this?  It sounds interesting.  I haven't tried 
searching for software equalizers on the web yet.  How abot Cool Edit?


73-

Nick, WA5BDU



So I built an accurate 3db/octave downsloping filter (in software) and fed
it with the K3's RX audio.


Could anyone else give this a try? There are quite a lot of software EQ's
able to make a -3dB/octave slope. Or milder slopes if you wish as long as
it's quite precise in dB/oct.


I have a feeling the K3 can do way(ne) better then it does in the audio
department.


Please excuse my english

73'

Paul

PD0PSB¨



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Re: [Elecraft] CFL lamp noise (fluorescent ballasts)

2012-11-20 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Yes, I have some issues with electronic ballasts too.  I was bummed by 
the amount of audible hum from the conventional ballasts in my four 
kitchen ceiling fixtures.  As an experiment I replaced the ballasts in 
two of them with Phillips electronic units.  I listened on AM on 160 
meters and also higher up in HF and heard no noise so I pronounced 
myself satisfied.

Later I discovered that those ballasts are putting out tremendous RFI on 
6 meters and also make it impossible to hear anything on the FM 
broadcast band.  So now they stay switched off most of the time.  I've 
been meaning to try separate AC line filters in each fixture but haven't 
done it yet.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU



On 11/18/2012 2:35 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
 Are you talking about a CFL, or a conventional fluorescent lamp? Many
 newer fluorescent lamps come with an electronic ballast.  These are
 sometimes a problem, in that the ballast operates like a switching
 power supply, and if not designed or built properly, can emit copious
 amounts of noise.   A standard old fashioned magnetic ballast does not
 have this problem.  If your lamp uses the newer electronic ballast,
 replacing the ballast with a magnetic type will fix the problem.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 in Sweepstakes

2012-11-07 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Also had a great time giving my KX3 its first taste of a real contest 
in the CW SS.  I made 388 Qs operating about 20 hours or so.  Missed the 
clean sweep by one section.  I was bummed because I'd had no idea I 
could get that close and should have spent more effort on sections early 
in the contest.

I did enjoy working all 50 states in less than a day at 5 watts out though.

The rig did really well.  I had N1MM logging and sending.  I could use 
the KX3's paddle for fills and have the end panel key jack set up for 
hand key so N1MM could key via that port.  Slick.

I should have done the per-band filter adjustment since I did hear 
some opposite sideband among all the super strong signals.

At the end I realized I had just about zero listener fatigue from 
radio noise, artifacts, etc.  A pretty subjective observation, but it 
did seem to jump out at me that my ears weren't ringing.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

TU NR 389Q WA5BDU CK 62 AR



On 11/6/2012 8:54 PM, Tim Groat wrote:
 Mine performed very well: 305 QSOs and 72 sections for 10 hours of
 operating time, using my HF6V vertical antenna. The great dynamic range
 and no-ring filtering makes a receiver that's easy on the ears: it is
 much less fatiguing than my old rig. When the clock struck 0300Z, I said
 What? Time's up already? This rig makes the operating fun--thank you
 Wayne, and everyone at Elecraft!


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Re: [Elecraft] PsychoAcoustics and Delay

2012-09-02 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Back in the 70s I had a three head reel to reel tape recorder.  The 
separate record and playback heads allowed you to monitor what you'd 
just put on the tape, but a fraction of a second later.  We discovered 
that we could have great fun with this ... put headphones on the victim, 
turned up fairly loud, and challenge him to recite something simple into 
the microphone such as the nursery rhyme Mary Had A Little Lamb.  Of 
course, no one could do it and the sputtering and looks of astonishment 
were hilarious.  This works even better after a few beers.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] I thought Elecraft was a household name!

2012-07-15 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I still can't get myself to pronounce the name correctly.  For me it's 
L-Craft.

Elecraft oughta be pretty well known at least on the CW segments, since 
I seem to work a lot of them on the air.  And more recently, a lot of 
guys who either have a KX3 or (more often) have one on order.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Triple Macro

2012-07-09 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Bill-

There are probably a lot of things that could go wrong.  When I did my 
macro toggle a couple days ago it didn't work at first and after a bit I 
realized I'd put spaces after the semicolons on the macro code - not 
allowed!

You might copy and paste your code to the list for inspection.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU



On 7/9/2012 3:43 PM, Bill Wiehe wrote:
 Rich - K1HTV
 I followed your instructions for the K3 Triple Macro setup but for some 
 reason I cannot get it to work. The macro cycles through the power setting 
 when PF2 is pressed but the actual output power level remains the same, that 
 is it it only affected by adjusting the power level manually. I must be 
 missing something for sure so any additional direction would be helpful.
 Thanks
 Bill - W0BBI

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Macro toggle

2012-07-05 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Whoa, I like this.  Must have missed it the first time around.  I now 
tap M3 to toggle between
5W (label: QRP) and 100W (label: QRO) with these macros:

MACRO1   PC005;MN110;SWT12;SWT35;SWT14;
MACRO2   PC100;MN110;SWT11;SWT35;SWT14;

That freed up (hold) M3 for another macro.

TU / 73-

Nick, WA5BDU


On 7/1/2012 12:35 PM, KU4AF wrote:
 Two macros instead of one - that sums up what is needed, but how to call two
 macros with one button? I was just fiddling around and came up with this,
 though it may not be original. The idea is to let the macro itself reassign
 the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to
 toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an
 example).

 Use the Utility to create the two macros like this:

 MACRO1   FA0001401;MN110;SWT12;SWH47;SWT14;
 MACRO2   FA0001402;MN110;SWT11;SWH47;SWT14;

 Send the Macros to the K3 then, on the K3, go to CONFIG:MACRO X, tap 1 and
 then hold PF2. Tap MENU to get out of CONFIG. Now MACRO1 is assigned to PF2.
 When you Hold PF2 the macro changes the frequency and then assigns MACRO2 to
 PF2. The next operation of PF2 sets a different frequency and sets PF2 back
 to MACRO1.

 Substitute whatever you want to toggle between for the FA commands. Put the
 two macros in whatever slots you have open and change the SWT11/12 taps to
 match. Change SWH47 to match the PF/M button you want to use. You could also
 expand on this to rotate among 3 or more macros.

 I expect others can add to this and again, I claim no originality for this
 idea. Now, who will be the first to suggest we need more than 8 Macro slots?

 John, KU4AF
 Pittsboro, NC




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[Elecraft] K3 on FD

2012-06-25 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
My K3 got in its 4th Field Day here in Russellville, Arkansas at K5PXP.

I had some issues late into the night when the K3 totally wigged out 
while we were working 40M.  First the CW sidetone went away.  A restart 
fixed it.  Then the audio went away, then the rig would stick in 
transmit with or without indicated power, then the CW messages wouldn't 
send or would send a couple characters and stop, then the N1MM memories 
wouldn't key the rig properly, then a couple of those ERR FW1 (or 
something) messages popped up.  I even reloaded the firmware at one point.

I noticed Sunday morning after we'd gone back to 20M that the rig was 
behaving properly.  So I assumed it was an RF feedback problem on 40M.  
After I got back home I checked out the rig on 40 into a dummy load and 
then on my antenna and everything was normal.  So I don't think there's 
anything wrong with the K3.  Wondering if next year I should attach a 
quarter wave 40M counterpoise to the rig. Funny thing - we were using a 
center fed 180 foot dipole with ladder line and a Johnson Matchbox.  
Tuning was broad and I didn't get any RF bites.  Maybe it was just being 
in the near field of the antenna that caused the problem.

Those things didn't hold us back much.  The CW station made over 1100 
Qs, most on 40 and 20 and some on 15.  I got good comments on the rig.  
Before FD I disabled most of my macros and set the bandswitch to skip 
the WARC bands.  I should have disabled the fast QSY feature of the 
RIT.  I like that feature but it caused some guys to lose their run 
frequency a couple times and even caught me once.

One thing I'd like to see, possibly as an option.  I was using the 
repeat feature of my CQ memory.  The need to tap the paddle to stop 
the next repeat caused me to miss a letter or two of the calling station 
over half of the time that I initiated QSOs in that way.  I'd like the 
fist dit (or first paddle closure) not to be sent, or have some other 
way of stopping sending, maybe tapping the memory key again.  It would 
be very cool if the K3 could detect a signal come on in the passband and 
cancel the next repeat.  Even with some false triggers, that would be nice.

Our temperature got to 104 degrees - hottest reported temperature in the 
state.  What are the odds of that happening twice in a row? Meanwhile 
I've got a buddy in Oregon who says they were freezing and blowing 
smoke, sitting on their hands to keep them warm.

Maybe when it's time for an SS report, I'll be talking about the KX3.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] put together for kx3 kit?

2012-04-21 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Since there's not an assembly manual yet, it's hard to say.  But 
probably it's a lot like the K3 but less complicated.  I believe it's 
another no-solder kit, so you're basically mounting boards and 
components and plugging in the interconnection cables  jumpers.  I 
believe there are a couple of main boards, LCD display, battery holder, etc.

If by discrete components you mean things like resistors and 
transistors, I'd say no.  But if you consider things like connectors and 
so forth to be discrete components, then yes.

If one can follow written instructions carefully, tell the difference 
between screws of different lengths, etc.,  most people will have no 
difficulty.

Since you haven't ordered yet, by the time you could receive a kit any 
difficult spots will have been worked out and discussed here, and there 
will probably be YouTube videos of people doing the assembly.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

Screwdrivers and kitchen table ready for my KX3.

(My components tell no tales.)




On 4/20/2012 8:39 AM, af6ni wrote:
 I have the same question. I'm thinking of ordering a KX3, but wonder how much
 is involved in building the kit?

 There seems to be mucho info on the KX3 but hardly any on how the kit goes
 together. Is it just a couple of boards? Are there discreet components?
 Where can I find the info?

 Thanks and 73.
 Joe
 AF6NI



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[Elecraft] [K3] 1st CW QSO on 60M

2012-03-07 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I got in a CW QSO on the first day the new privilege became available.  
Pretty fun.  I set up another bank of memories for the CW frequencies.

Then I was thinking that it's kind of difficult to check for USB QSOs in 
progress with the way CW is required to transmit 1.5kHz above the USB 
carrier frequency.  You're listening too high even  if you go to USB 
mode and open the bandwidth. It's cumbersome.

My next notion was to program the CW frequency into each of the five 
channels but put the USB frequency and mode into VFO B for each memory.  
That way I can just hit the A/B switch to monitor the channel on USB, 
tuned properly, proper bandwidth.  If OK, I go back to VFO A and put out 
a call.

With an asterisk in front of each channel's name, I can use VFO A to 
channel hop up and down the five channel band.  One minor problem here 
is that VFO B doesn't follow along with the channel hopping.  It might 
be useful if it did so.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 macro to put ATU in norm/bypass mode

2012-02-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
While we're wishing, I'd hoped to have macros for when using my relay 
switched AL-811:

QSK: off, VOX: off, TX Dly: 012, PWR: 60W

And Normal

QSK: on, VOX: on, TX Dly: 008, PWR: 100W

Looks like the TX Dly might be do-able, Power certainly is, but not the 
QSK and VOX items.

73,

Nick, WA5BDU


On 2/28/2012 11:51 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 While you're at it, please include control of the Sub RX RX Ant
 (RX Ant Hold).

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX delay

2012-02-17 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I use semi-break-in with my AL-811 amplifier.

TX delay set to 8 ms. Key Out line to amplifier. No separate PTT switch 
- T/R control by paddle only.  Semi-break-in delay set to 0.5.

I do not get choppy CW.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 2/16/2012 10:05 PM, Igor Sokolov wrote:
 But I am finishing my 300w HF amplifier kit and will be using a dc
 open-frame relay for TR switching of RF.  I guess I can time it using
 my dual trace scope and set K3 TX DLY accordingly (amp will be keyed
 with KEYOUT).  I do not use CW very much on HF so QSK with 300w is
 not necessary (or probably possible).
 Even if you use PTT CW and set TX delay for 20 ms you will get choppy CW



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX delay

2012-02-17 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I'd like to see a feature to allow different TX-DLY settings for QSK and 
semi-breakin.  If I seldom use my amplifier and it requires  8ms, I 
have to change TX-DLY before using it.  But since I prefer fast QSK in 
general, I have to set it back again when I go barefoot.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX delay

2012-02-15 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I think when in semi-break-in, you'd only be concerned about chopping 
the first element.  I just checked my AL-811 manual and it says the 
relay may take 15ms to operate.  My K3 is set for 8ms (default) but I 
turn QSK off when I use it.

I just tried it while monitoring on a separate receiver sending Vs at 25 
WPM with the built-in keyer and don't hear shortening of the first dit.

But I am on the edge, unless the 15ms figure is for drop-out and pull in 
is a lot faster than that.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 2/15/2012 12:26 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:
 confused by all this K3 TX DLY chatter
 please answer the following question(s)

 my cw operation is with Simi QSK @ 13-25wpm
 sometimes with a straight key
 but most times using the internal K3 keyer

 so are you saying.
 I shouldn't run the K3 with my older AL-811 (3 tube)
 or I will be transmitting these chopped off cw characters

 or would this only happen if I were to use FAST QSK
 or is it ok in either Slow or Fast
 as long as I stay below about 30wpm

 also, if I can use the K3 and AL-811,
 in either or both QSK modes,
 what TX DLY setting should be used

 --
 GB  73
 K5OAI
 Sam Morgan



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Re: [Elecraft] Second Antenna Port

2012-02-12 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
This is similar to how I connect the K3 with KAT3.  Port ANT-2 goes to 
my antenna switch and port ANT-1 goes to my dummy load.  When the K3 is 
powered down, it is in the ANT-1 position, so I get a measure of 
protection when I switch off the rig.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 2/11/2012 5:13 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
   You can easily arrange antenna switching external to the K3 with
 a little bit of work.  The nice thing about using external relays is
 that you can design the contacts to connect a dummy load to your
 transceiver when the relay box is not powered - no problems with static
 surges when not operating.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) EFHW Vertical Antenna (Mike Morrow)

2011-11-14 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
The EFHW looks pretty similar in terms of matching on the full wave 
frequency (EFFW?) too.  That is, it's purely resistive and a couple 
thousand ohms.  Actually a little lower on the higher band but not 
much.  I use the same matcher for both bands.  So it's a good dual band 
antenna.

My field QRP efforts the past few years have been on 40 and 20 meters.  
I use a single 66 foot long EFHW on both 40 and 20.  It works quite 
well.  Also, my radiator is #22 or maybe #24 AWG Teflon insulated wire.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU



First, a multi-band antenna cannot be a “end-fed half wave” on all 
bands. only on one band, as far as I know. I’ve read many articles about 
“end-fed half wave” antennas over the years, and they have always been 
single band antennas with special matching circuits to tune them, and 
most have agreed that when they are a half wave on the frequency used, a 
counterpoise or radial is not required.


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Re: [Elecraft] Memory Keyer - Dumb Question

2011-09-04 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Tap the REC button, then tap a message button M1 through M4.  Send your 
message with the paddle.  Tap the message number again and your message 
recording has been completed.

Hey, reading the manual really *does* help.  I just found out (or 
re-learned) that there are TWO banks of messages.  Switch between bank 1 
and bank 2 by HOLDING REC.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] TOM HAMMOND, N0SS, SILENT KEY

2011-08-05 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Tom was the first ham I met when I moved from AR to MO in 1981.  I ID'd 
on the repeater and there he was.  I bought a house across the river 
from Jeff City and so was in a different ham club, but did see him from 
time to time and will always remember a few things.

He was a big contester and had one of those cool new AEA CK1 memory 
keyers.  He removed the key pad from it and mounted it to the back of 
his paddle at right angles so the memory buttons would be just that much 
closer to his sending hand.

I was timidly working on putting a small A3 tribander on a 40 foot 
tower.  Tom suggested a big TH5DX but I said that's too big and might 
scare the neighbors.  So he proposed I put it at 75 feet and then it 
would look a lot smaller.

Years later he'd gotten into QRP and I saw him at OzarkCon.  Tom told me 
that Elecraft was working on something really big and he couldn't tell 
me more but I'd be impressed when it was announced.  Sure enough, the K3 
became my first Elecraft purchase.

A great guy and a great ham.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] RF on pipes

2011-07-09 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
A hollow conductor is not analogous to a coaxial cable.  It has no 
center conductor.  In the case of the hollow conductor (copper pipe), 
current will flow on the outside surface only.  Skin effect still 
applies and works exactly as if the conductor were solid.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 7/9/2011 4:51 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:
 Yes, as in coax for an example.  when transmitting eg via coaxial cable which 
 is properly installed the rf currents flow on the inside surface and not on 
 the outside surface.  I mention proper installation .. In which case steps 
 are taken to keep the inside and outside surfaces separate (at rf).  In your 
 example,  plain copper pipe wil have a total surface of the inside + outside. 
  If you solder on caps then you will have just the outside.

 Jim
 VE3CI

 Sent from my iPod


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Re: [Elecraft] Uses for Programmable Function Keys

2011-06-23 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
PF1 - SPKR + Phones / Phones only toggle
PF2 - CQ fast QSK (QRQ) toggle

I use M1 and M2 for CW memories and M3  M4 for additional macros:

M3 tap for QRO (100W); M3 hold for QRP (5W)
M4 tap for DX split (+2 kHz)

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] Klaatu

2011-03-26 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I thought it sounded like H.P. Lovecraft.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 forgets where it's at on DC failure

2011-02-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
My MFJ-4225V power supply sometimes trips off when I'm operating in 160M 
contests, giving me the same problem.

If I'm running stations (calling CQ), after establishing a frequency 
I'll power the K3 off normally, then back on.  Now if the P/S trips the 
K3 will come back up on the current frequency.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] What made you decide on purchasing an Elecrafttransceiver?

2011-02-24 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Let's see.  I'd had the FT-1000 for about eight years and had a bit of 
new rig fever, plus a bonus check was looming and I didn't want to 
fritter it away on food and shelter!  When I bought the FT-1000, I liked 
the fact that it was a real boatanchor in size and weight.  But after 
I gimped up my back a bit later I started longing for a rig I could take 
to Field Day without killing myself.

I liked the FT-1000 pretty well, but reports of chirp and clicks, 
especially in QSK mode, made me abandon QSK on it.  That and the 
clacking relays.  My previous rigs had included a Triton II, Triton IV 
and Corsair, all of which had excellent QSK.  I thought the K3 might 
take me back to smooth QSK with good transmit quality on CW, my primary 
mode.

I'd never owned or used an Elecraft product before, but I'd been active 
in QRP for ten years or so and always heard glowing reports on the K2 
and other products.

So those were the major factors and here I sit, still well pleased to  
have such a fine transceiver.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] Take the plung!

2011-01-31 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I made about 380 Qs in the 160 meter test and worked some at the 
superstition level, a couple I used the APF on, several who were no 
doubt QRPers.

I never heard anyone sign /QRP.  So this may be one of those things to 
be indignant about that has little basis in reality.

If someone had signed /QRP, I wouldn't have felt greatly harmed.  I 
worked other stations who took longer than typical to work due to being 
unfamiliar with contest procedures, etc.  I was still happy to get 'em 
into the log.

73/72-

Nick, WA5BDU
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[Elecraft] [K3] ANT1 / ANT2 for RX / TX?

2010-12-06 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Working the ARRL 160 last weekend I was considering trying a pennant 
receiving antenna but then realized I don't have a receive antenna 
input.  (I don't have the transverter option.)

I wonder if the capability to use ANT1 for TX and ANT2 (assuming the ATU 
is installed) for RX could be incorporated as an option?  If there is an 
issue with relay speed or noise, it could be made functional in 
semi-break-in mode only.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] RIT/XIT offset control moves vfo A in large steps?

2010-11-24 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Rick-

This is a great feature for large QSYs.

In my manual (revision D2), it's on page 59 at the bottom.   In the VFO 
CRS entry, it says to set CONFIG:VFO OFS to ON.  (Well, maybe I should 
have directed you to the VFO OFS entry on page 60 first.)

Some people prefer to leave it off because they bump the knob and do an 
inadvertent QSY.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU


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[Elecraft] [K3] ZL8X on 160 from Arkansas

2010-11-24 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I've been turning on 160 the first thing in the morning for a couple 
weeks, ever since putting elevated radials under my inverted L, and 
hearing nothing but noise and a couple U.S. super stations calling CQ 
DX.  Did I mention there was a wasp on the window outside my room yesterday?

So this morning the cluster reported that he was on 1.826.5 and 
eventually I was able to barely hear him.  Using every trick in the K3's 
tool box including APF, I could finally make him out sending his call, 
but he was ESP level.  I put in my call a few times without much hope of 
working him.  After one last time, I decided to go cook some oatmeal and 
maybe check again in 30 minutes, so I pushed the TX standby switch on 
the rig as I always do when I walk away from it. I don't want the cats 
working DX with my call.

Just as I was pulling the phones off, I heard: DU?  So I mashed the TX 
standby switch for the eternity of one-half second it takes to go back 
to active.  While doing this, I felt a tiny breeze on the back of my 
hand -- that red wasp was attempting a landing.  I heard the beep and 
moved my hand to the paddle, the wasp landed on the K3's display, and I 
sent 'WA5BDU' a couple times.  He came back 'WA5BDU 5NN' and naturally 
he was 5NN too.  New 160M country in the log and another thing to be 
thankful for.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] APF preview: very nice

2010-10-31 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Too bad I didn't get it installed in time for the QRP Zombie Shuffle -- 
lots of signals needing help there.

It's not easy to find just the right signal that might benefit when you 
want to test one, but I've found several in the past couple days.  I 
think the APF is going to be a useful addition here.  I prefer operation 
pretty much the way it is now.  I definitely want a tunable center 
frequency and I prefer minimal complexity beyond that.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] APF suggestions

2010-10-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Regarding contest usage, that was my thought too.  It's been about three 
years since I swapped the FT-1000 for the K3 but IIRC, the APF was 
pretty great in certain situations -- usually a weak signal, low band 
noise, and station not sending too fast.  The APF was a little ring-y 
and muddied faster code a little bit.  Last week I got to play with an 
FT1k at a club station and confirmed those impressions somewhat.

In contests I'm usually hands off -- I won't even touch the RIT if it's 
possible at all to copy the off-frequency station as-is.  In a contest, 
even if I ask the other guy for a repeat, the repeat might take two or 
three seconds, not enough time to optimize settings.

But it's not all about contests, and some contests (QRP, for example) 
tend to be less frenzied too.  I'm one of the many anxious to get a look 
at this new feature in an already great rig.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 10/27/2010 6:00 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
 Why? Too many controls to remember, too fast a pace to turn it on and off and
 tune it in the elapsed time of one contact. No way would I leave it on while
 running. I'm good at using the existing controls to do what I have to do to 
 dig
 a signal out.


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Re: [Elecraft] Nearfield monitors

2010-10-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Where's the rich, Corinthian leather?  Pretty speakers though, but $239 
per pair is an order of magnitude high for me.

73-  Nick, WA5BDU

On 10/28/2010 2:25 PM, Randy Hall wrote:
 Audio marketing, you got to just love it!
 Randy
 K7AGE

 On Thu, Oct 28, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Bill NY9Hn...@arrl.net  wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] QRM and filtering

2010-10-22 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Quite a coincidence.

In 1978 I had horrible RFI that blanketed HF and 2 meters and also 
affected TVs and even people's stereo systems. Naturally, my neighbor 
asked if it could be my ham radio.  At one point I looked out and saw 
another guy walking up and down the street with a portable radio, the 
same thing I'd been doing.  But it was impossible to localize the noise 
- it seemed to come from every power pole and every circuit.  Finally 
the power company was called in and they found that the source was my 
neighbor's doorbell transformer.

A couple years later I'd bought a house was seriously chasing DX with 
the great sunspot peak when the same kind of noise came back. Again, 
neighbors up the street wondered if it was my ham radio.  And again, 
attempts to trace the noise were futile.  I finally walked up to the 
neighbors' house, which did seem pretty hot, and pressed the doorbell 
button.  The noise stopped momentarily.  So I told them their doorbell 
transformer was likely at fault and they replaced it.  Problem solved.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 10/22/2010 6:08 PM, Dick Williams wrote:

 After a little detective work, I traced the source of the interference to
 the doorbell transformer.  Disconnected it, and told him to go buy a new
 one.  Of course we were both happy campers.

 Dick  K8ZTT


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] How to program quick 100 or 200 KHz QSY

2010-10-12 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
  In addition to fine / coarse and spinning the knob, using the RIT for 
fast QSY can move you 100 kHz or more pretty quickly.  I use that 
function a lot for quick QSY over a good span.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU


   I know about Fine/Coarse and spinning the knob, but would like to find a 
 better way


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Re: [Elecraft] RFI, KUSB and MFJ-4225

2010-10-06 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
  I was surprised to hear of the MFJ-4225 generating noise on 160, since 
I use a MFJ-4225MV and work 160 a fair amount, yet hadn't noticed any 
noise.  OTOH, I could I tell if I'm hearing P/S generated noise as 
opposed to other 160 meter band noise?

I dug out my homebrew linear supply and decided to use the AFV reading 
on the K3 for comparisons.  With AGC off, antenna connected, K3 tuned to 
an empty spot on the band with no signals present (daytime).  The 
readings jump around a fair amount with random bursts of noise and 
possibly QRN crashes, so I jotted down ten or so over a ten second 
period, first with the MFJ powering the K3, then with the linear P/S, 
and then back to the MFJ to close the loop.  I know this isn't highly 
rigorous, but it should tell me something.

The average readings were MFJ, 146; linear, 168; MFJ, 141.  I don't 
think the differences are significant, that is, I don't think the linear 
power supply is noisy.  So I'd say there's no significant difference.  I 
turned on the MFJ while listening with the K3 powered from the linear 
P/S and didn't hear any noise increase.  The MFJ had long leads 
attached, going to my IC-706, but not loaded.

Looking at the QST product review (January, 2000), they found that the 
MFJ-4225 was very quiet with some increase in noise between 7.5 and 10 MHz.

Maybe there's something wrong with your specific power supply.  I guess 
it's also possible that a change in manufacturing techniques or design 
has caused the MFJ-4225 to degrade.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU



On 10/5/2010 7:38 PM, Ignacy wrote:

 MFJ-4225 generates a 10db noise on 160m. Can a simple filter cure the
 problem or is it better to get a linear PS?

 Ignacy, NO9E



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Frequency Guide

2010-09-21 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
  I think a lot of the confusion comes from the fact that the USA is a 
pretty good sized country.  It's rare that I hear EU on 40 meters here 
in Arkansas.  Probably more rare on the west coast.  Meanwhile one the 
east coast, I'd imagine EU stations are pretty strong, so those guys 
can't understand someone trying to operate CW on 7040 will all the EU 
PSK being so loud there.

I still hear more QRP CW activity on 7040 although I do check 7030 and 
at times hear some there too.



73-

Nick, WA5BDU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW keyer issues

2010-09-20 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
  Hmmm ... I'm a 99% CW operator and I find the K3's built-in keyer to 
be excellent, free of misfires and glitches for the most part.  I'd use 
one of my fine external keyers if there was a need, but there's not.

Over the years I've used the Accu-Keyer, the AEA Contester, and the 
Super CMOS II, all fine keyers, and I find the K3's keyer to have a very 
similar feel.

I will say that I have had the K3's keyer misfire or hesitate while the 
K3 was being bombarded with serial interchanges from HRD and/or N1MM.  
This surprised me because I thought the keyer would have a very high 
priority.  But it hasn't happened in many months and may have been a 
glitch since eliminated in either the K3 or the external software I was 
using.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 9/20/2010 10:01 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:
Nevertheless, with my TS-870 and its built-in Accukeyer I send nearly 
 flawless CW.  With the K3---well if I haven't programmed the message with the 
 utility, I don't send it.


 --- On Mon, 9/20/10, Barryw...@comcast.net  wrote:

For many years, I've used the
 Island keyer II (in CMOS Superkeyer III
 emulation mode), the CMOS Superkeyer III, and prior to that
 the VVF
 Accu-keyer.

 I find with the K3 keyer, I tend to miss trailing dits,

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[Elecraft] [K3] Modification day for SN 01195

2010-08-25 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
  I've been storing up a list of modifications I wanted to install in my 
K3 (S/N 01195, July 2008) and managed finally to do them today.  Due to 
the number (nine) and varying descriptions, purposes and locations in 
the rig, I tried to organize my thinking by putting them in a list, 
trying to see which ones I really need or want, how hard they might be 
to install, and which ones might be best done together due to being on 
the same board, etc.  Some are documented in Elecraft's modification 
kits  parts area and some in the application notes area.

I started by putting all of the PDFs into a directory of official K3 
modifications so I could study them.  The ones applicable to my K3's 
vintage were -

K3AFMDKT --- Improve speaker  line out distortion and IMD

K3DSPLPF --- Active audio LPF to reduce artifacts in the audio chain, 
add daughter board to DSP board

K3IOBUFFKT -- Increase signal level at I.F. output by more than 10 dB

AFOPMDKT -- Protect audio amp from short circuit or low impedance loads

App Note -- Extreme signal RX protection mod

App Note -- Protect against RF pickup at microphone connection by 
bypassing RF choke

App Note -- Protect against chirp from synthesizer by increasing DDS 
signal driving the PLL

App Note -- Improve immunity of RS232 and audio connections to RF by 
bypassing RF chokes

App Note -- K3 SYN ALC mod.  Assure enough drive when in high 
temperature environment

Descriptions are my paraphrase and might not be totally accurate.

Anyway, I did all of these today and made notes on the degree of 
difficulty and which ones might best work at the same time here -

http://pages.suddenlink.net/wa5bdu/k3_mods.pdf

If you have a similar vintage K3 and haven't kept up on mods, they might 
be of interest.

None of them were really difficult for me, and the instructions were 
complete and accurate.  I should say, I assembled my K3 from a kit, I do 
a lot of homebrewing but it's pretty ugly, and my vision wouldn't allow 
SMT work with just my bifocals, but with a 10x jeweler's loupe jammed 
into my good eye I do OK.

I did all the mods today and didn't put anything back together until I'd 
finished them all.  Doing it this way, it's important to bag or 
otherwise segregate all of the screws or other hardware from each cover 
or component removed and keep each piece in a separate place with its 
own hardware.

I was most interested in the lowpass filter.  I'm no golden ear, but 
possibly the power of suggestion made me think I heard some of the 
harshness others described.  I found myself cranking the bandpass way 
down toward the low end.  At least preliminarily, I think I do notice 
the improvement in the quality of the sound (I work CW) with the LPF 
installed.

I'm pleased with Elecraft's way of publishing instructions and making 
mod kits available.  Not to diss any other manufacturers, but most have 
a no user serviceable parts inside approach.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion Big Box K3

2010-08-09 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I worked the NAQP-CW in multi-two (two stations) this weekend and we 
used my K3 and an FT1000, which was my former rig.  Operators went back 
and forth between rigs.  Of course I'm currently more familiar with the 
K3, but even the day I left the FT1000 for it, I found the K3 very easy 
to use and human engineered very well.  Easier to use for contesting 
than the FT1000.

I'm mainly a CW operator so I appreciate that everything I needed was 
right in front of me -- shift, selectivity, keyer speed, keyer memories, 
RIT, and main tuning, all dedicated controls with no menu access 
needed.  (Yes, the serial link screwed up and I used the built-in keyer 
for sending.)

The FT1000 was a great rig, but I wouldn't want my K3 to be inflated to 
FT1000 size.

I have fat fingers and am not the most dexterous, but I don't see how 
one could bump the width control while going for the main tuning knob.

Maybe one small suggestion for a tweak.  I used the auto-repeat memory 
function for CQing.  My impulse was to tap the paddle to stop message 
sending if someone would begin to respond.  But that would send a dit 
(or dah) and I'd miss part of his call.  Perhaps while in auto-send 
mode, the first tap of the paddle should stop sending but not be 
transmitted.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU





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Re: [Elecraft] AFSK A RTTY with VOX?

2010-07-21 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Thanks for several on- and off-list responses.  Yes indeed, my VOX gain 
was still sitting at 0.00 and cranking it up a bit took care of the 
problem.  I had done a search for VOX related entries in the CONFIG 
menu but failed to check the MENU menu.  My bad.

The idea that the tones from the software (sound card) might get 
filtered if they don't match those in the rig was a good one too.  I 
think mine are lined up pretty well.

Now I'll write all this stuff down in my notes to self and next time 
won't re-invent the wheel or perturb the list.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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[Elecraft] AFSK A RTTY with VOX?

2010-07-20 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Is it possible to have VOX control over transmission while in the AFSK A 
mode on RTTY and using the Line In jack for audio from the soundcard?  I 
tried unsuccessfully to do this in the recent RTTY Sprint using MMTTY.  
I finally had to use HRD with DM780, which I assume was controlling the 
T/R switching via the PTT.

Here's how I've set things and troubleshooting I've done -

Mode: Data; Data mode: AFSK A
Soundcard out connected to Line In on rear panel.
VOX is ON
TX Standby is not enabled
MENU: MIC SEL is selected to LINE IN
MIC Gain set to a nominal non-zero value
Verified that the sound card is putting out a strong AFSK signal.  Also, 
by pressing XMIT, the K3 does transmit this signal and give the required 
bars of ALC indication.

Should I be using the microphone input to have VOX control?  I wouldn't 
mind using PTT control but I'm not sure N1MM with MMTTY are up to the 
task.  HRD and DM780 aren't really contest software since no dupe 
checking is available.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject) (HRD and K3 and VISTA)

2010-07-02 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I do.  It works pretty well but HRD does lock up if I turn off the K3 
before stopping HRD.  I use the newest HRD version for which the logbook 
is separate.  I think this is version 5.

Running Vista on a Dell inspiron 1525 laptop.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 7/2/2010 12:40 PM, ussv dharma wrote:
 Is anyone using Ham radio Deluxe, Vista, AND  K3I cant get it to run over 
 three to four minutes.

 Susan


 If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! 
 Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV DHARMA 


 -


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[Elecraft] K3 chirp in cross-band split

2010-05-08 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I worked special Armed Forces Day station AAZ today as I transmitted on 
14.050 and listened on 13.507.  A guy emailed later that my signal 
sounded interesting so I monitored it with a separate receiver and 
sure enough it was chirping like my old Heath VF-1 VFO.

I'm not sure if this is expected behavior or not so this is more 
observation than complaint.  I don't have the sub-receiver.  
Experimenting a little, when I turned off both the QSK and VOX 
indicators and used the XMIT button to go into the transmit mode, there 
was no chirp.

73-

Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding Mat Chatter

2010-03-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
This thread got me off onto a tangent, trying to measure resistances on 
some of these anti-static materials, such as the black foam pad and the 
silvery plastic envelope.  I had a capacitor discharge through the 
unknown and used a MOSFET to monitor the capacitor, since a 10 M-ohm DMM 
would have discharged it.

I got 33 G-ohms between two electrodes about an inch apart in one of the 
black pads and 4.2 G-ohms between two electrodes 1/4 inch apart in one 
of those envelopes.

Discussion on my blog - http://wa5bdu.blogspot.com/

73-Nick, WA5BDU

David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Some of the anti-static bags that Elecraft use are the pink ones.  Those 
 are non-conducting and get their anti-static properties by not 
 generating static, rather than dissipating it.  They would be useless as 
 an anti-static mat.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Grounding Antenna when not in use

2010-03-20 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
My antennas come in to one manual selector switch, which connects the 
selected antenna to a second selector switch, which then connects that 
to the desired rig.  Both switches ground unselected inputs.

Since the K3 is switched to ANT1 when powered down, I keep my Cantenna 
connected to the ANT1 input and I use ANT2, which connects to that 
second selector switch.  The K3 remembers that I like ANT2 when I power 
up, so that's no hassle.  If I accidentally transmit into ANT1, 
there's a dummy load there.  So I have some level of protection even if 
I forget to rotate both switches to ground or unused inputs when not 
operating.  I usually do remember though, since I also lost my SWR / 
power measuring diodes to a nearby lightning strike, so I've got several 
levels of protection.  I admit this isn't as good as disconnecting coax, 
but I'd never get on the air if I had to go through all of that every 
time I turned on the rig. 

Some guys disconnect everything and throw it outside, seal the rig in 
the original shipping carton, sacrifice a goat and pray a novena when 
thunder approaches, but I can't go that far.  I think my next logical 
step would be to have the AC plug for my K3's power supply handy at 
desktop level so I can easily pull it when I'm going to be away from the 
rig for a while.  This in response to what W8JI said about the mains 
connection being the primary path for damage.

73-Nick, WA5BDU

.hank. wrote:
 Chuck .
 Like you, I have never had to disconnect any radios in the past from the
 antenna - except during severe thunder storms.
 About a year ago when the SWR SMT diodes went bad in my K3, I admitted to K3
 support that I did not remove the coax from the back of the K3 but I
 grounded the Six Pak switch connections out in the garage. 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Low and High Power Cmd

2009-12-23 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I guess the responses saying to set up the TUNE power level are 
appropriate for your use.

I've also wanted this command but for different reasons and when the 
ability to use macros was expanded a couple months ago, I added a QRP (5 
W) and a QRO (100 W) macro.  One goes to M3 (tap) and the other to M3 
(hold).  This is pretty useful since I do a lot of switching between 
regular and QRP ops.

I think the commands are PC005; and PC100;

Use the K3 Utility to create them and send them to the K3, then use the 
K3's CONFIG:MACRO# function to assign them to keys.

73--Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Beta Firmware

2009-10-17 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Regarding beta releases ... if you're concerned about new bugs or 
problems, just wait a week or two following the initial announcement and 
monitor the reflector.  If there's a bug, you'll hear about it.  If not, 
go ahead and download.

Regarding Vista -- I have no problems whatever downloading the beta 
packages and sending them to my K3.

73--Nick, WA5BDU

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[Elecraft] K3 - erratic keyer behavior serial related

2009-10-09 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
This morning my K3's keyer is behaving erratically - long dashes from 
dash paddle, dashes from dot paddle, gaps in strings of continuous 
dits.  This is my first time transmitting since installing the most 
recent firmware a couple days ago.  I had HRD connected at the time.  
The stuff I've tried -

Backed down from 38k to 19k and eventually 4.8k on the serial port.  
That didn't help, but the keyer works OK when the serial interface is 
not connected.  My serial port is the Elecraft supplied USB to serial 
dongle, plugged into a laptop running Vista.  I tried going to my XP 
computer with real serial port and HRD, communicating at 4800 baud, but 
no luck there either.  Also tried turning off QSK and turning off VOX.  
In case of RF interference, I transmitted at 5 watts into my dummy load 
and also went into TX standby mode.  The only thing that has worked has 
been to have no serial connection.  Oh yeah, my speed is 22 WPM.  And 
the erratic sending also occurred while sending a memory message.

I haven't tried going back to the previous firmware yet.  Any ideas?

73--Nick, WA5BDU
K3 #1195
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[Elecraft] [K3] feature notion

2009-07-18 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Thus far I've only used one of my programmable function keys.  (Speaker 
plus phones or not.)

I do about half my operating at QRP and half at ~100 W.  A nice 
single-push toggle would be one that could swap the K3 from, for 
example, 5 W and 100 W. 

73--Nick, WA5BDU

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[Elecraft] K3 #1195 at Field Day

2009-06-29 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
This K3 is 25 serial number units and 25 miles from the K3 Brad posted 
about earlier.  So it was pretty hot here too.  Supposedly a record 
temperature for the date, last set in 1952.  That's one Field Day record 
I didn't want to set.

I kept moving equipment around on my table to keep direct sun off the K3 
and laptop.  I was afraid to even look at the heat sink and FP temperatures.

My K3 survived and showed no heat related issues even though I kept it 
QSOing or CQing at 100W CW for long periods.  The main issue I had was 
strong RF fields, and I've had that about every FD regardless of rig.  
It was more an N1MM thing, as N1MM would hang up with key down if I 
tried to send from the log.  Well, laptop thing really.  So I did most 
of my sending with the paddle, which I didn't really mind since I miss 
using my paddle in some of these contests.

One surprising thing though was that the K3's internal memory keyer 
would stick too.  That didn't make any sense since I was using the 
paddle (K3 internal keyer) with no issues.  The rig would lock into 
transmit mode with sidetone ON, but no RF output.  Eventually I fixed 
the USB to serial dongle with three split ferrites, two passes each, and 
the N1MM plus the K3's memory keyer began working fine.  Go figure.

I had the same issue with not enough audio.  I blamed it on the fact 
that I was using a pair of small stereo speakers, and hi-fi speakers can 
be pretty inefficient.  I also went to the extreme of making sure the 
gain setting was on high. I used the internal speaker some and got 
plenty of volume, but it's pretty raspy, especially under FD pileup 
conditions.  I think too that under open air outside conditions, you 
want more audio than you need in a small room. I always had the 
headphones handy when needed though.

The overall performance of the rig under crowded conditions was very 
good.  I have both the 400 Hz and 200 Hz filters and previously didn't 
think the 200 had much value to me, but it proved useful in digging out 
weak ones and also when SPing through crowded band segments.

We had two CW ops at our site.  I did 14 hours and the other fellow did 
10 and we wound up with 761 Qs and 74 of 80 sections (even though they 
don't count).  The antenna we used was a 180 foot dipole, center at 45 
feet or so with 450 ohm line feeder through a Johnson Matchbox on all 
bands. 

Oh yeah, other evidence of RF problems, I got shocked once touching the 
brass base of my paddle and again grabbing a knob on the K3.  That 
surprised me until I saw that the path was shaft thru set screw to finger.

73--Nick, WA5BDU



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sending sequential serial numbers with

2009-05-31 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Me too.  I was having such fun in the contest, I had not idea it could 
be causing such pain in others. 

155 Qs, 61 countries and a nice little test drive for the K3 ...

73-

Nick, WA5BDU

R. Kevin Stover wrote:

 I apologize for the stomach upset.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] WWII-era US Military MF/HF QRP rigs (OT)

2009-03-06 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Yeah, I was licensed in early 62 -- the bottom of the cycle.  I'd visit 
older hams with incredible collections of DX QSLs on display.  They'd 
say, That was from back in '57 -- you could just put a piece of pipe on 
a coke bottle on ten meters and work the whole world. 

The first big peak that seemed comparable came about 17 years later (1979).

73--Nick, WA5BDU


Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 Amazing? Did everyone catch **when** that was? In the late 50's... at the
 peak of the most humungous sunspot cycle seen since Guglielmo Marconi was in
 diapers. 

 You guys can have your DXCC, WAS and whatever certificates. I just want to
 see another sunspot cycle like that!

 Ron AC7AC

   
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[Elecraft] Power off settings: ANT1 / ANT2

2009-03-01 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Speaking of the powering down housekeeping routines, here's one I 
wondered about a while back.  Maybe it's a proposal ...

I generally just use the ANT1 connector and do my antenna switching and 
disconnecting ahead of that, externally.  ANT 2 is currently connected 
to my dummy load.  Assuming the antenna relays remain latched in their 
last selected position when off, it might be a good enhancement to have 
the rig switch to a defined position when OFF, as an option.  In many 
cases, that could provide modest protection against lightning induced 
transients entering the rig. 

Not as good as disconnecting, but better than being solidly connected, 
in my opinion.

73--Nick, WA5BDU

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[Elecraft] K3 - No power / SWR metering

2009-02-05 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Is this an operator error, or what?

This evening I don't get any SWR or watts metering on my K3, just CMP 
and ALC, like I was on SSB.  I'm fairly sure that earlier in the evening 
I did have the expected SWR and power indications.  When I transmit, I 
get 6 bars of ALC and no bars of SWR, regardless of power level.  S 
meter works, CWT on/off works. 

Here's what I tried -

Cycled through all modes.  Recalled memories.  A/B switch (I don't have 
the sub receiver).  Power off and back on.  Re-loaded firmware (2.80).

Is there a configuration item I might have wrong?

Thanks,

Nick, WA5BDU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - No power / SWR metering

2009-02-05 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Ah, better to be a knucklehead than to have a hardware problem.  Guess 
I'll keep my hands in my pockets and fingers off the buttons for a while.

Now, could you help me with my VCR ...

73--Nick, WA5BDU

Lyle Johnson wrote:
 This evening I don't get any SWR or watts metering on my K3, just CMP 
 and ALC,

 HOLD the METER button (long press of DISPLAY) to toggle between the 
 ALC/CMP and SWR/PWR displays.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I did my own little unscientific IMD check yesterday.  I connected the 
K3 to my Cantenna and monitored with my IC-706IIg on the same desk and 
same power supply.  I used a bit of wire in the 706's antenna terminal 
sufficient to give an S9 or higher received signal strength.  Had the K3 
at 100 watts and mic gain to hit 100W on peaks.  Then tuned up and down 
from my signal several kHz each way on the 706 listening for splatter as 
I transmitted.  Didn't hear any, unless it was faint.  Of course, I hear 
my signal changing in pitch and diminishing in strength as I moved the 
receiver away, but I hope I know what that sounds like.

I did this on 40 meters and 15 meters, and with CMP on and off.  I did 
it again at 50 and 80 watts and didn't notice any difference.  Also 
checked at 13.8V and 14.5V supply voltage and didn't notice a difference.

I checked my voltage drop on the K3's internal meter.  From receive to 
100 watts CW key down, I got 0.7 VDC drop.  I note that the MFJ switcher 
provided 0.19V of that.  Today I soldered my crimped lugs at the P/S end 
and noticed no difference when I did the measurement check again.

73-Nick, WA5BDU



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Re: [Elecraft] IO Issues with K3

2009-01-25 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I've been finding the same problems in the 160 test. 

A lower baud rate seems like it would be fine for most things, but I 
wonder if it would tend to shorten any Morse elements?  Now that I think 
of it, maybe not, since the speed would remain the same at the USB end 
of the interface.  And to send CW, the program just toggles a 
handshaking line, independent of baud.

I do think that CW seems a tiny bit clipped from N1MM compared with 
that using the built-in keyer.

I'm thinking RF problems too. I just re-intsalled my quarter wave 
Marconi since the landscapers cut down my main antenna tree the other 
day, so I probably changed the local field strength in some way.  N1MM 
is having other hesitation problems as well.  I should probably 
re-install it.

73--Nick, WA5BDU

Cady, Fred wrote:
 Check the baud rate. I find if I run faster than 4800 either N1MM or 
 the K3 (probably N1MM) doesn't like it.  4800 seems to be OK.
 KE7X
  
  

 Fred Cady
 fcady at ieee dot org

  

 
 *From:* elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] *On Behalf Of *Lee Buller
 *Sent:* Friday, January 23, 2009 8:48 PM
 *To:* Elecraft Reflector
 *Subject:* [Elecraft] IO Issues with K3


 Running the 160 meter contest.  Lost connection with the rig from
 N1MM logger.  Cannot re-establish connection now with anything
 included the k3 utility.  I wonder if RF got to something? 
 Running the Prolific drivers and the USB adapter.  Changed ports. 
 Turned off and on CPU and associated USB hubs, cycled the
 K3nada.  Any one have an idea?

 Lee



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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!

2008-12-18 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Wow, Lyle.  You sound like the nuns in parochial school.  But Sister, I 
*can't* sit still!


73--Nick, WA5BDU
(squirming and fidgeting)

Lyle Johnson wrote:


3) Sit quietly in your chair while working, with your feet on the 
floor (no rubber soles).  Don't shuffle your feet - especially if a 
carpeted area - and don't wiggle in your chair.



73,

Lyle KK7P


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Speaker cabinet resonances

2008-10-08 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I tried various things recommend here on the list and I think cabinet 
buzz is no longer an issue.  But I still have a bad resonance or other 
effect in my built-in speaker itself.  In decreasing frequency, it 
starts buzzing at around 340 Hz, worse at 330 Hz, slight at 320 Hz, and 
then gone.  I pretty much can't use the built-in speaker.  At moderate 
volume levels, even band noise excites those resonances and makes a kind 
of pulsing, buzzing noise like rough CW.


For additional info - I'm not a musical golden ear, I don't expect 
high fidelity out of the built-in speaker, and I'm pretty crazy about 
the K3 overall.  Yes, I know I should contact support, but I want to get 
my facts together and maybe even make some recordings first.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


Deni F5VJC wrote:

Has anyone found a solution to the cabinet buzz from the K3 internal speaker?

I've not used the internal speaker until recently on my K3 and now find I
have annoying cabinet buzz around 450Hz and 600Hz, not so good for CW!

I haven't tried any damping as yet and just wondered if anyone has managed
to cure this cabinet resonance.

73,Deni
F5VJC
K3 325

  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - interfacing to N1MM Contest Logging software

2008-10-01 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Thanks to all who pointed me to the info that I should have been able to 
find myself.  ;^) 


And to K1EL for providing the nice documentation.

73--Nick, WA5BDU


Simon (HB9DRV) wrote:

The WinKey programming interface is available - see K1EL's website.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - interfacing to N1MM Contest Logging software

2008-09-30 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Is the N1MM protocol for communicating with Winkey made public 
anywhere?  For us MCU programming CW enthusiasts?


73--Nick, WA5BDU



That's correct - we have already passed the Point Of No Return on this 
one. There is no point in software developers attempting to support 
several fragmented subsets of the KY protocol on different rigs 
(*none* of which currently supports the needs of all users) when the 
WInkey protocol is already there and does it all.


Now if the K3 could have built-in support for the Winkey protocol, 
that would be a very different matter! But that's for the future; and 
in the meantime the hardware Winkey option is already available.


I was a very reluctant convert to the Winkey chip, because Who needs 
yet another paddle-driven keyer? I've already got three, and still 
only one keying hand!  Instead, I decided to use the Winkey chip in a 
minimalist way as a simple Morse Modem - a small dongle that has 
only an ASCII serial input and a Morse output. Used in this way, it 
needs no paddle input or manual speed control; the keying speed is 
controlled entirely by the host software (N1MM) which can also command 
the chip to switch its keying output between two different rigs. The 
only feature lost by not using the Winkey's own paddle inputs is the 
ability to interrupt outgoing CW by touching a paddle - and the Esc 
key works fine for that.






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Re: [Elecraft] Kent Single Lever Paddles

2008-08-31 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Wow, if I had to do all that extra junk I'd get rid of my dual paddle 
Kent, Brown Bros., and K8RA keys and go back to that cruddy Heath single 
paddle integrated unit I used to have.


Steve, I think you make the common assumption that having a dual paddle 
*requires* the operator to use the squeeze method.  It really 
doesn't.  It just *allows* you to go from dit to dah and vice versa more 
efficiently.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


n4lq wrote:
With duals, we push left and hold, push right, release left, release 
right. 4 moves! I

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Software

2008-08-30 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I'd wait until the latest beta (now 2.34) has been out there a week or 
two and then consider it a de-facto official release and use it.  By 
then users will have spotted all but the most obscure and/or least 
offensive bugs and they will have been corrected.


I'm on the fast track myself though.

73--Nick, WA5BDU
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Re: [Elecraft] annoying resonance with internal speaker in K3

2008-08-11 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I've got this too. I did some things to eliminate top cover resonances 
and then I began to notice this.  It's a little more subtle than a 
continuous buzzing along with the tones of CW. Sort of a scratchy sound. 

I thought it was in the audio, but no, it's gone when I use headphones 
or an external speaker.  I thought it might be an artifact of 
processing, but no, it's still there when I turn processing off.   Band 
noise is enough to cause the sound on a moderately noisy band (not hard 
to find these days).  Moderate (but not excessive) volume is required to 
being it in.  I did note that as I crank up the Lo Cut, the noise 
disappears when I cross 250 or 300 Hz. 

Thus far, I've removed some of the things I did to dampen the top cover 
plate.  I removed the top and looked for any loose screws and tapped 
various components for sound.  Removed the bottom cover and attempted 
the same.  No luck.  I hate the thought of disassembling the entire 
front of the rig ...


73--Nick, WA5BDU


Fern Rivard wrote:
I have a K3 serial #412 which has always had an annoying resonance from the internals of the radio cabinet somewheres when using the internal speaker. I thought that it may have been the top lid which did that so I tried to isolate the top lid by temporarily adding some electrical tape between the top and when it meets the the top of the radio. However, that did NOT accomplish anything for me. Has anyone found a permanent cure for that annoying resonance? 

  


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

2008-08-04 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
That's a pretty good solution.  When I was making measurements I noted 
that when I turned the supply voltage down to the 10 to 11 volt range 
the fan got very quiet.  In fact, I was going to forget about the 
thermostatic control solution.  But when I put the cover on, the noise 
worsened quite a bit at the same voltage.  Pulling air through those 
case perforations seems to do it.


Since the K3 is spec'd for 11 to 15 volts, I wanted to run at a little 
over 14 V or so.  The fan really gets noisier as voltage climbs, so I 
definitely needed either the resistor solution or fan control.


73-

Nick, WA5BDU


NZ0T wrote:

As I'm not a very technical person I just used a couple of resistors in
parallel to slow the fan down in my 4225.  I can't remember the values this
early in the morning but it seems to be working just fine.  The supply does
run a little warmer but not hot and the fan is no longer heard.

Bill NZ0T

  


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[Elecraft] OT: fan control in MFJ-4225MV switching P/S

2008-08-03 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
This could almost be on topic, as the desire to control the fan in my 
MFJ-4225MV P/S is associated with my acquisition of a K3.  There was 
recently a discussion of switching power supplies for the K3 on the 
list.  I thought the MFJ unit was quiet while others found it to be 
noisy.  After the noisy fans in my FT-1000 and in my old PC left the 
shack, the MFJ P/S did become the loudest box in the vicinity. 

I had a sense that the P/S didn't really need that continuous fan 
activity, especially during low duty cycle operation or just listening.  
So I put a temperature sensor on a heat sink and use it to turn the fan 
on and off via a comparator circuit and MOSFET switch.  I think it's 
going to work out pretty well.  Of course, the simple circuit could be 
used on any P/S that runs the fan all the time but doesn't really need to.


Schematic and lots of rambling chatter about the little project are here --

http://pages.suddenlink.net/wa5bdu/fan_control_page.html

73-- Nick, WA5BDU
in Arkansas
#1195


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[Elecraft] K3 - speaker buzz

2008-08-01 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
A month or so ago there was a flurry of posts about buzz in the 
speaker.  On poster replaced fiber washers used to mount the speakers 
with neoprene and reported good results.


With my sidetone level set at about 45, I heard pronounced buzzing at 
350 and 400 Hz sidetones.  (Adjust your sidetone level with MON, then go 
to PITCH and adjust the sidetone pitch throughout its range.)


Since I had to pop the top to install my back ordered 6kHz filter, I 
took the opportunity to replace the fiber washers with improvised ones 
made from small grommets sliced in half.  I did get some improvement.  
Now the major buzz is limited to 350 Hz.  In putting some slight finger 
pressure at various places on the top cover, I see that the speaker 
isn't at fault but that the top plate has some resonances.  I'm thinking 
of putting some kind of resonance killers on the underside, maybe some 
globs or beads of RTV or similar, so as to avoid any kind of permanent 
change to the rig.


Anyone else done anything similar?

73--Nick, WA5BDU
#1195

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[Elecraft] K3 - COM port iterating ...

2008-08-01 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I use the USB to serial converter from Elecraft to connect my laptop to 
my K3.  When I initially plugged it in it configured itself as COM 4.  
Hmmm?  My laptop doesn't have any real serial ports. 

Later, I moved it to a different connector and lost communications.  The 
COM port had re-configured itself as COM 5.  So I changed the settings 
on my software to suit and things were good.  I wondered if this 
behavior was somehow related to the specific USB port.  So I moved the 
connector back to the initial USB port.  This time the COM port iterated 
up to COM 6. 

I wonder if there's a way to tell this thing to be the same COM port 
each time I plug it in?  My computer is a fairly new Dell laptop running 
Vista.  As recommended, I let Vista go out and find the best driver for 
it on the web.


73--Nick, WA5BDU
#1195


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Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone Monitor Preference Opinions

2008-07-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I hadn't noticed that they didn't track until this thread, so I guess 
status quo is OK with me.  Just now, I found that in swapping between 
speaker and phones, I do not feel the need to adjust the sidetone level.


While transmitting ... well, it can be disconcerting to start 
transmitting full QSK and the band noise is so loud you can't hear your 
sidetone.  But as one poster said, you could turn down the AF gain in 
that case as a quick interim cure. During noisy contests, I like the 
keep the sidetone level high.  A dedicated knob would be nice, but not 
worth the panel space for just that function.  I'm well pleased with the 
ease of accessing both pitch and sidetone level -- much easier than on 
the FT-1000 I sold to buy the K3. 

Adjust pitch without hearing it?  I can't imagine that. 


Bonus opinion:  I like the CCW for less bandwidth of the Width control.

Can I have a little more banjo in the monitor?

73--Nick, WA5BDU


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Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic RG-174

2008-07-26 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Well, that shows that it ought to be OK from the voltage breakdown 
perspective, but consider current carrying capability or self heating of 
that little bitty center conductor too.  It might be limiting.


If you allow it an amp, 50 watts.  Two amps, 200 watts.  At 100 watts of 
course, 1.414 amps.  Probably OK, I'd think.  But I don't know that I'd 
go much higher.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Mike,

My chart in the ARRL Handbook says RG-174 has a dielectric breakdown 
voltage of 300 volts RMS.  So in theory, it will handle 1800 watts at 
an SWR = 1.0 (less at higher SWR) - but I would not trust it at much 
over 25 watts myself.  I like to see a larger safety factor where 
transmission lines are concerned.  The ohmic losses may be great too, 
that all depends on the length and the SWR.


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Band Button gripe - was ON4UN has a K3?

2008-07-25 Thread Nick-WA5BDU

And take away my CW memory buttons?  That's madness!

I've got more band changing methods than I can keep track of already.

73-  Nick, WA5BDU


Don Rasmussen wrote:

It still sticks in my craw that I have 5 single press
buttons on the front panel that I'll never use. 


Elecraft - please make these available for use as
single press BAND buttons. 


M1  M2  M3  M4  REC
80  40  20  15  10

That way we get into the ballpark with a single press
and can band up or band down from there. Seriously,
this should be a no-brainer! 


==


  



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[Elecraft] K3 RTTY MMTTY, etc

2008-07-18 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I'd like to figure out how to get on RTTY by noon tomorrow.  I'm working 
with N1MM and MMTTY at the moment, with HRD and my trusty paddle as 2nd 
and 3rd back-ups.


Transmit control -

It looks like the K3 gives the option of having RTS or DTR actuate the 
PTT.  MMTTY seems to use both, with no choice to use just one.  I tried 
that method, but with serial port connected, the PTT was asserted at all 
times.  Tried both DTR - OFF and RTS - OFF in the setup with same 
result.  (First field is for PTT control and 2nd is for keyed line control.)


Second choice is VOX.  I set the K3 for AFSK A, connected line out of 
the PC to line in of the K3, turned VOX on, told MMTTY to transmit.  No 
VOX operation.  Plugged phones into the line out jack of the PC and 
verified -- yes, good strong RTTY tones being generated.  I did try 
adjusting the MIC gain, which seems to become a line-in control for this 
mode.  I also did go to the menu and chose Line In as the MIC input.  
What's left?


I guess my third choice would be to use the serial port, have MMTTY send 
ACSII data, and the K3 would do the FSK thing.  But I'm not sure how I'd 
get around my PTT control issues.


Receive -

Seems to be working.  No RTTY on at the moment, but when there's a 
signal, I see it in the waterfall.


PC / OS-

I'm using a new Vista laptop.  I know MMTTY isn't guaranteed to work 
with Vista, but I think it's working well enough that I should be able 
at least to operate the VOX.  The rig control features of HRD are 
working fine.


TNX / 73-

Nick

--what a tangled web we weave / when we let computers become part of our 
ham stations ...


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RTTY MMTTY, etc

2008-07-18 Thread Nick-WA5BDU

Hi Bob-

No, I had not tried that.  It was at zero.  I cranked it up to 25 and 
still no luck.  Did some searches in the nabble archives and saw that it 
might need to be higher yet.  So I went to 50 and now it keys the VOX.  
I have line in mic gain at about 20.  Thanks for the suggestion.


73-Nick, WA5BDU

Bob Cunnings wrote:

Regarding VOX - have you tried adjusting VOX gain?

Bob NW8L



  



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[Elecraft] K3 builder's notes # 1195

2008-07-13 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Amazing what can be done with a keg of 4-40 hardware and a few other 
misc items.  Assembly of the kit took me about 16 hours total.  Fourteen 
for the basic ten watter and two to add the 100 watt amp.  My 
configuration has the ATU, general coverage receive, four filters, KPA3 
amplifier.


The manual was very clear and I had almost no missteps.  I did lose 
about an hour trying to fit the front panel.  It would almost but not 
quite go all the way on to make the screw holes align.  Tried to remove 
it but couldn't do that either.  I finally noticed that the main (RF) 
board on the front right corner was a little long and was hitting the 
front panel board, preventing full insertion of the connectors.  I had 
to shave a bit of the board at the break point and then it went together 
OK.  I was on the verge of just forcing things, and I'm glad I didn't.  
Later I shaved the bottom of the crystal oscillator board at the break 
point which helped with getting the connector to align with the hole in 
the front shield -- or was the the front panel?


Got it finished at 8:11 PM last night and put it on the air for a few 
test QSOs in the IARU, CW portion.  All I knew about the rig was how 
to turn it on and where to plug in the key.  Lots of fun.  Worked 
several EU stations on 40, which isn't all that routine from Arkansas.


My initial impression is that I'm going to like it a lot.  I was very 
fond of the FT-1000 I sold to buy this rig, but I  think I'm going to 
like this one better.  The K3 is my first Elecraft product of any kind.


73-Nick, WA5BDU


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Re: [Elecraft] 1N34A-Diode,RF probe

2008-07-10 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
It's common to recommend a Schottky as a replacement for the 1N34A.  
I've done it myself.  That's why I was surprised to find this web page -


http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/diode_vf_vs_if.htm

where this guy discovers that the Schottky diode (1N5711, to be 
specific) can show some pretty high forward voltage drops.  Turns out 
that the low drop we're all familiar with exists at quite low values of 
forward current -- less than 1 mA.  At ~2 mA is a sort of breakpoint 
where Vf begins to increase at a faster rate than in the silicon or the 
germanium diodes.  By ~10 mA, the 1N5711 has the highest forward voltage 
of all three. Quite an eye-opener!


You might think that for the RF probe application, forward current will 
be small.  Maybe it is.  But often times small average currents are 
misleading if there's a short conduction angle (time).


72--Nick, WA5BDU

--back to counting screws



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[Elecraft] K3 - It's here. S/N-1195

2008-07-09 Thread Nick-WA5BDU

My K3 S/N 1195 arrived today at 18:00 local, 30 minutes ago

Ordered 2/18/08
Shipped 7/2/08 (135 days, 4.5 months)
Receipt 7/9/08 (142 days, 4.73 months)

Pleased purchasers:  1

Two minutes before UPS arrived, my wife left to visit relatives for 
several days.  I have unrestricted access to the kitchen table.  How's 
that for timing?


73--Nick, WA5BDU
in Arkansas



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Re: re.: [Elecraft] Switching Supplies

2008-07-08 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
Here's a plug for the MFJ-4225MV which I'll be using with my K3 any day 
now ...


It should go well because it's small and light (I guess most switchers 
can make that claim though).  I have not noticed any RF noise when using 
it with my IC-706 or alongside my now departed FT-1000.


It has a fan that runs continuously.  Fairly quiet but I don't like 
hearing fans at all.  I'm thinking of doing some sort of temperature 
controlled mod so the fan only runs if needed.


73--Nick, WA5BDU


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RE: [Elecraft] Shipping Status

2008-05-07 Thread nick-wa5bdu
So we've gone from four months to five?  

Ack!  There went my hopes for Field Day!

73--Nick, WA5BDU


  
  So, you might use a date of 5 months after your order date as 
  the general guideline.  They will most likely be able to improve 
  that time as goes by.
  
  73,
  
  John W2XS
  

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