Re: [Elecraft] Lightening damage

[Richard Fjeld]

I'm trying to avoid taking anyone's side on this discussion.  I wanted to say 
that I worked for a  company that had towers throughout the state which were 
several hundred feet tall.  Over the years, I only saw one that took a hit.  
The company was so certain their grounding specs had not been followed, that 
they made the contractor dig up the entire grounding layout.  It revealed the 
specs had not been followed.  

Certain radio and TV services need to operate 24/7 and can't shut down when 
lightening threatens.  Their grounding methods apparently prevent the towers 
from being hit .

Rich, n0ce



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gmail
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 6:12 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Lightening damage

I’m sure there are others with more expertise on this subject then me, however 
several texts including the new ARRL grounding book say it may be dangerous to 
disconnect antenna coax in the house. It should only be done outside.
  My daughters vertical was hit by lightening and the lightening leaped 5 feet 
from a cable on the floor to a power outlet.
Ray
W8LYJ 

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Re: [Elecraft] Failing K3 at 3C0L

[Richard Fjeld]

This may help readers understand what the energy can be like on a nearby 
antenna.  I was having a qso using my quarter wave inverted-L on 160 meters at 
100 watts, and at the same time building a tuner.  I went to connect the  
ladder line from my 80 meter loop that was not parallel to the L, but a wire 
from the loop crosses the L at 90 degrees about two feet above it at one point, 
otherwise nothing close.   I got an RF burn that had me yelling.  Not good 
separation, but I never considered the possibility of an RF burn with the 
separation I did have.

Rich, n0ce


From: Dave Hachadorian
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 2:05 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Failing K3 at 3C0L

Diode D5 on the KXV3 is one weak link.  A more robust replacement
is available from Digikey for $0.42
https://marc.info/?l=elecraft=145323127930319=2


Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ




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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Something I find handy

[Richard Fjeld]

FWIW,
I have posted something about this before, and this will be my last, but I want 
to pass the word again.
I have the MFJ-212, but other similar devices should work also. It makes having 
a P3 even better.

Before I bought my P3, I had been using a MFJ-212 MatchMaker to help me adjust 
my external tuner/matchbox.   It applies a pulsing white noise across the 
spectrum. I have my P3 display the K3 frequency in the center of the screen.  I 
was pleased to see that when the P3 is set to 200 Khz bandwidth, and as the 
tuner reaches a good match at the frequency of  the K3,  the pulsing white 
noise forms the shape of a ‘V’ on the screen or monitor.  In a way, it  becomes 
 a piece of test gear.

The shape of the Vee can be adjusted by moving the controls on the manual tuner 
until the best match is achieved. Ideally, the base of the Vee will bottom at 
the center of the screen.  The shape or ‘Q’ of the Vee  can reveal problems. 
Also from one day to the next, without touching the tuner, the Vee may be as 
far away as 40 KHz or more  from the K3 freq due to changes in the antenna 
system (rain, frost, trouble, etc.) It gives a visual glance at the condition 
of my antenna system.

After making a change to the antenna or open wire feedline, and I need to find 
the new tuner settings,  I can watch as the color of the waterfall changes to 
help me see progress toward finding a match until the Vee begins to form.  If I 
get a proper looking Vee, I don’t need to check the SWR because experience has 
shown it will always be a 1.0:1. I do glance at the SWR indicator on the K3 to 
verify it as I transmit.

It can also  show the behavior of my external ATU after it has tuned. (Keyword 
is external to the radio). I have only had one ATU to look at so far, and I 
hope others tune better.

The best part is, I can tune without transmitting and while listening. No 
hurry, no worry.  I can even  ‘tune up’ on a QSO while listening to what is 
being said.  Once again, FWIW.

Rich, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

[Richard Fjeld]

Charlie,
The bottom paragraph of your post caught my eye.

Transfer switch type  can depend upon a generator’s locale.  I have seen 
outdoor generators hard packed with snow internally.  I feel better about 
examining things before start-up. So for home use,  I favor manual control.

With a manual switch, it is nice not to have the whole AC panel transferred to 
generator so that it can be known when the commercial power is restored.

On the lighter side, I have a 350 watt peak AC Honda generator with a 12 volt 6 
amp DC output.  I won’t part with it. It is the size of a large lunch bucket. 
There isn’t room enough to tell how handy it has been.

Rich, n0ce

From: Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 1:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

(snipped some)

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on.  This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH


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Re: [Elecraft] Dusting off the old K3 & Considering a KAT3A

[Richard Fjeld]

I snipped as much as I could to shorten this up.   See below.

I think the problem lies in part that early manuals taught antenna theory by 
starting out with a random wire and a simple L tuner as you say, at the antenna 
end of the transmission line.  The purpose was to add inductance or capacitance 
as needed to attempt to resonate the wire.  So, the term “tune the antenna” was 
used. And calling the matching devices  ‘tuners’ doesn’t help correct the 
terminology either.

Rich, n0ce




From: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 6:36 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dusting off the old K3 & Considering a KAT3A

>
> On 8/30/17 at 11:25 PM, j...@audiosystemsgroup.com (Jim Brown) wrote:
>
>> Please don't perpetuate that myth, Bill. Tuners do NOT reduce the SWR
>> unless they're at the antenna end of a transmission line.
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[Elecraft] OT: Lead acid battery voltages, and battery maintainers

[Richard Fjeld]

There was a recent thread about lead acid battery voltages relating to K type 
radio usage.
I wanted to make mention that I had a lead acid battery last in one of my cars 
for 12 years without ever failing, and then I carelessly let it freeze up one 
harsh Minnesota winter.  I always wondered why it lasted when others seldom go 
more than four years.

So, I bought some digital voltage displays on eBay awhile ago, and I install 
them portably in each vehicle with a battery including tractors, etc.  I do 
this with an accessory plug wherever possible, to study what the charging 
circuit is doing to the battery.

I have found some very interesting things happening.  For example, my recently  
new Dodge Caravan runs  around the middle of 14 volts.  In my tractor,  I have 
to keep the voltage below the gassing point by having the lights on. I was 
replacing batteries in the tractor quite often.  The list goes on, but is  of 
lessor significance.

A note about battery maintainers;
I have various types and brands. I have automatic charger/maintainers with 
their own quirks.   I bought some maintainers a few years ago from a popular 
supplier, and they were not automatic. They were  maintainers, not chargers.  I 
ruined two batteries with them before I made them dependable.

In the first battery failure, they had an electrolytic cap that was not rated  
high enough for peak voltage.  It would fail and cause it’s circuitry to damage 
the battery. After I found the cause, I replaced the caps in all.

The second battery failure was due to a circuit breaker tripping for who knows 
why. It went undiscovered for too long.  The maintainer had a LED that was 
powered from current flowing in the circuit, now from the battery.  Though 
slight, the drain took down the battery.  I placed a diode in line with the 
lead to the battery in each  to prevent current flowing backward.  It causes a 
drop in voltage, but they were a bit high to begin with. They have since been 
dependable for a long time.

FWIW,

Rich, n0ce


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Re: [Elecraft] Reflector change?

[Richard Fjeld]

Ditto

Rich, n0ce


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Charlie T, K3ICH
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:24 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reflector change?

Don't change a thing...

Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:41 AM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Reflector change?

Wayne, Eric,

Rose and I much prefer the reflector as it is now.  Please, no changes.

73

K0PP
N7HKW
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Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

[Richard Fjeld]

I just read Ignacy’s post telling that the K3 receive ant input has a RF 
activated relay.  I’m glad to see that.

Rich, n0ce


From: Richard Fjeld<mailto:rpfj...@outlook.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 12:00 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

I haven’t been following this, and just noticed it, so I hope I am in sync with 
this.

Just a note to say that years ago, I had a B Electronic Antenna Switch (I 
think it was called) that had one or two tubes in it.
It worked perfectly to bias the receive completely and immediately as soon as 
transmit was detected.  It allowed full break-in for CW work.  I would like to 
see something like this again today in solid state.  I think this would be the 
ticket for what you need. I haven’t looked, so I don’t know if anyone is 
marketing such a device.

Rich, n0ce

From: Bob McGraw K4TAX<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 11:00 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

See page 63 of the manual.  Also page 70 under Receive."*HI RFI*
warning:"

RFI DET - *NOR *enables detection of high RFI at the antenna in receive
mode.  (see HI RFI warning. *Troubleshooting*). Set to OFF to disable
the warning.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10163


On 8/15/2017 9:50 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> Great question! I asked the same thing once and never got an answer so to
> be safe I either short the RX antenna during transmit or if SO2R I use DXE
> receiver guards. It would be nice if the K3S had a similar built in
> protector.
>
> John KK9A
>
> W1PEF wrote
> Mon Aug 14 21:48:29 EDT 2017
>
> I am considering a Rx antenna but my property is small and concerned about
> strong signals over powering the receiver. Does the K3S have built-in
> protection?
> Does anyone use a loop receive antenna or BOG antenna ... would like some
> recommendations from actual users of receive antennas.
> Have the complete K-Line and would like to improve my ability to hear.
> Thanks for any advice...
> Paul
> W1PEF
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

[Richard Fjeld]

I haven’t been following this, and just noticed it, so I hope I am in sync with 
this.

Just a note to say that years ago, I had a B Electronic Antenna Switch (I 
think it was called) that had one or two tubes in it.
It worked perfectly to bias the receive completely and immediately as soon as 
transmit was detected.  It allowed full break-in for CW work.  I would like to 
see something like this again today in solid state.  I think this would be the 
ticket for what you need. I haven’t looked, so I don’t know if anyone is 
marketing such a device.

Rich, n0ce

From: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 11:00 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna protection

See page 63 of the manual.  Also page 70 under Receive."*HI RFI*
warning:"

RFI DET - *NOR *enables detection of high RFI at the antenna in receive
mode.  (see HI RFI warning. *Troubleshooting*). Set to OFF to disable
the warning.

73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10163


On 8/15/2017 9:50 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> Great question! I asked the same thing once and never got an answer so to
> be safe I either short the RX antenna during transmit or if SO2R I use DXE
> receiver guards. It would be nice if the K3S had a similar built in
> protector.
>
> John KK9A
>
> W1PEF wrote
> Mon Aug 14 21:48:29 EDT 2017
>
> I am considering a Rx antenna but my property is small and concerned about
> strong signals over powering the receiver. Does the K3S have built-in
> protection?
> Does anyone use a loop receive antenna or BOG antenna ... would like some
> recommendations from actual users of receive antennas.
> Have the complete K-Line and would like to improve my ability to hear.
> Thanks for any advice...
> Paul
> W1PEF
>
>
> __
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>

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[Elecraft] OT: (Inductively coupled, balanced tuner) Need info offline

[Richard Fjeld]

I have acquired what once was an old, heavy duty, inductively coupled balanced 
tuner that needs to be completely rebuilt. It looks like it had never been 
incased, either. The parts can handle some power. I only have 100 watts, but I 
would like to see how the individual coils perform compared to my Johnson 
Matchbox with the Anneke Mod.

The 8 plug-in coil units are commercially made, and are stenciled 2 to 18 MC. 
They are about 11 CM (4.25 in) in diameter and about 14 CM (5.5 in) long.  They 
each have 5 banana plugs about 3.25 CM (1.25 in) apart OC.

FYI- Two of the variable capacitors have 1 CM spacing between the plates, and 
are about 9 CM (3.5 inches) in diameter, and are about 34 CM (13.5 in) long. 
There are two other var caps that are smaller, but very nice.

Here is the problem:
The plug-in coil units have banana plugs already described. One became 
unscrewed on one unit and is missing.   The base unit they plug into is 
stenciled ‘TVL BASE’ and it is missing the center socket that the banana plugs 
mate with.

I can possibly work around this using an alligator clip, but I would like to 
get replacement parts if possible. So far, my searches have resulted in nothing 
even close.

If anyone can help, please contact me off-line. Some of you have been wonderful 
in the past.

Thanks for tolerating this post,
Rich, n0ce


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[Elecraft] OT: Article on Web pertaining to Telecommunications.

[Richard Fjeld]

Maybe you saw this. They say the applications are near infinite.

Phys.org: A 100-year-old physics problem has been solved. 
http://google.com/newsstand/s/CBIwq7GPnjU


Rich, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

[Richard Fjeld]

The guys I looked up to were the radio ops on ship.  They sat at a typewriter 
and had to type perfectly as they copied perfectly.

Rich, n0ce


From: Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:34 PM
To: 'KENT TRIMBLE'; 
f...@fmeco.com; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

In military and commercial brass pounding in the USA, we were limited to
something between 13 and 20 wpm, usually closer to 13, because long studies
demonstrated that slower is faster because of fewer mistakes copying every
letter correctly on a keyboard or paper. And hearing whole "words" was a
path to disaster if one was copying five letter code groups.

If I was caught trying to run an Army CW net above about 15 wpm I'd likely
end up on KP for a month. (KP = kitchen police: cleaning kitchens, peeling
potatoes, etc.) The object was to ensure that everyone on the circuit could
copy perfectly the first time.

In the "day" some commercial point-to-point circuits required the operators
use the "company key" provided - a bug with the weights welded on for about
15 wpm just to keep the speeds down for faster message handling.

I've seen commercial ship/shore traffic running very slow due to a shipboard
operator who was not proficient at CW. The shore station had to run equally
slow, no matter how painful.

But Amateur Radio is a whole different world with different skills being
most useful, skills such as head copy at 20 or 30 wpm. I enjoy "reading the
mail" on CW while puttering around the shack, just as if listening to a
voice transmission. And many Hams enjoy constantly pushing the envelope on
speed just for the fun of it. Ham radio is, after all, a Hobby. If the other
station copies the name as Don, not Ron, and the QTH as Forest Lawn (a
cemetery in Los Angeles) and not Forest Grove (a town in Oregon), it's
easily corrected on the next transmission.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KENT TRIMBLE
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:31 AM
To: f...@fmeco.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Learning Morse anew

One caveat, Fred . . .

Traffic handlers MUST copy on paper or on a word processor.

In my opinion, one is not a skilled telegrapher until one can copy in head
and on paper with equal accuracy.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV



On 6/12/2017 11:59 AM, Fred Moore wrote:
> the moral... put down the pencil and paper.
>
> Fred Moore
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Richard Fjeld]

Just a note to say I’m still thinking about the information from this thread, 
and I’m glad to learn of fires while a Lithium type battery discharges.  I had 
no idea they would do that, and it takes the fun out of having them.

I had bought a balance charger and a voltage monitor, and low voltage alarms, 
but I have made battery packs that wouldn’t be practical to  attach a monitor 
to.  Example, I have an old Kenwood hand-held that hasn’t had a battery pack 
for years.   Now, for a few dollars,  I had made a battery pack for it.

I also have CREE flashlights made for the 18650, and 14500 batteries.  There is 
no way to monitor the voltage in this application.  I tested one yesterday and 
found it was down to 2.0 volts.

(Also being marketed today, are packs to jump-start cars and trucks. That will 
be interesting!)

This thread has made gel-cells look pretty good to me again.

Thanks to all,

Rich, n0ce

From: Bill Tippett
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 1:31 PM
To: Terry Schieler
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

Ditto Terry's comments.  I'd add that balanced chargers (<$20) and
inexpensive monitors (<$3) will detect when a cell begins going bad.  One
cell having a much lower voltage than the others is an immediate flag.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMax-B6-Digital-LCD-RC-Lipo-NiMh-
battery-Balance-Charger-US-STOCK-100-New-/311592092378?
hash=item488c5602da:g:mmsAAOSwdpxUWyl3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lipo-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Meter-
7-4V-11-1V-22-2V-2S-6S-Cells-LED-Display-/110762643408?
hash=item19c9f7cfd0:g:GQ4AAOxyqKVRigvv

I also never put any lithium battery (LiPO or Li-Ion) inside my radios.
I've seen more bad publicity about Li-Ion batteries (e.g. Samsung S7
phones, Dell laptops, etc) than LiPO batteries but I'm not sure why that is.

73,  Bill  W4ZV


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Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

[Richard Fjeld]

I had a TA33Jr back in the 70’s when the sun cycle was good.  I had a Ten-Tec 
Argonaut QRP rig and worked a lot of DX with it BUT conditions were very good.  
Note is was only for three bands.

I second what Vic is saying, though I am speaking about hex beams in general.  
Hex beams are a good solution at times. I have talked to many who were using 
them.  Vic’s comment about ‘low profile’ can be  important. I have heard people 
say their neighbors were not aware it was a ham radio antenna. I have also read 
they only need to be up about 20 feet high. They are said to be good in the 
wind. (Maybe all this has been mentioned)

Rich, n0ce

From: Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 10:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry 
Brown
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Beam antenna question

I used the K4KIO hexbeam on Field Day -- it was very easy to assemble
and the parts were high quality. It is also visually low-profile. I
would recommend it. I don't have any experience with the TA33 Jr. but my
guess is that there are a lot more things that can go wrong with all
those traps.

The hexbeam will have gain on WARC bands as well as 10-15-20. My
experience is that with conditions as they are today, 17m is VERY
important (so is 30, for that matter) for DXing.

I have a rotatable dipole and yes, it definitely does help a lot to
rotate it! But it isn't a beam.

73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Richard Fjeld]

Walter, your point is well taken.  The original post needs to be studied.

This thread has been good to increase my awareness.

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Rich, n0ce

From: Walter Underwood
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2017 12:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

Lithium ion batteries which are in a completely controlled charging and 
discharging environment, like in a phone or laptop, are generally safe. Well, 
except for the Samsung Galaxy Note S7. The best guess I’ve heard about that 
problem is that the various functions were so complicated and overlapping that 
they could overload the battery and overheat it.


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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Richard Fjeld]

As Kevin, K4VD wrote:
“Maybe I missed this in the thread but can someone cite an authoritative and
maybe trustworthy source for Lithium battery safety? So many old spouse
tales seem to have grown up around this technology.”

And my answer is:
Yes, I agree.  The only things I have picked up on, happened while researching 
the promised Graphene battery.  It was said that Lithium type batteries destroy 
from charging them with too much current, or from subjecting them to physical 
shock. (Some have mentioned shock testing)  I try to keep my chargers down to a 
50-70 mA rating.

Considering the millions of devices with Li-on batteries, the odds of a fire 
must be slim. Still, it can’t hurt to take precaution when charging them.I 
salvaged a metal pot with a handle so I can pick it up safely and carry it 
outside if needed.  I think I can contain a fire if they don’t explode.

And thanks for the info both pro and con about the protective bags. Anyone have 
a Tesla?

Rich, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

[Richard Fjeld]

Thank you very much for this advice.

I have often heard of fires due to Li-on batteries, but I have no idea of the 
nature of the ‘fire’.  In other words, do  they burn, or do they explode 
scattering ignited fragments.

Knowing this would help in finding a safe container for charging them.  It is 
not practical to always avoid leaving  them unattended while charging.

 I’d like to know more about the bag someone mentioned, and if cooling is a 
problem.

Rich, n0ce

From: William Lagerberg
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 4:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fire in the house li-ion

Guys,

I want to give you a advice, my shack it (was) in the basement (cellar??) I do 
all my thing for the hobby there.
A collega of mine asked me to take a look at two Go-Pro LI-Ion accu's because 
they where not loading anymore.


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Re: [Elecraft] Ground rod through concrete thread?

[Richard Fjeld]

I have always thought the best way to avoid a lightning strike is to bleed off 
any build up of energy that may be on the antenna.

Many have seen this video of the two guys climbing a 1768 foot TV antenna 
tower.  It clearly shows devices to dissipate energy.
There is one right at the very top when they get there, but not fully shown as 
the others are.

There is a short animation in the beginning.  This is not for weak hearts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7k4Xk1mEwmI
As you watch this, think about climbing back down.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/20/2017 2:13 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:

POOF!  Hey what happened to the ground rod through concrete thread?  ;o)

Terry, W0FM




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Richard Fjeld]

Just a comment on myth controversy when dealing with Lightning and 
grounding topics.

I know guys that are doing all the wrong things with their practices.  
They can't be persuaded otherwise.
Yet, the odds have favored them for years.  That reinforces their 
thinking that they are right and logic is wrong.
But I have seen what has happened to others.

Lightning strikes are one hazard.  Static energy build up on antenna 
systems is another.  Both can destroy.
And, then there is the lightning type potential coming in on the AC 
power line to consider.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/17/2017 10:32 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
>
> Doug
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Richard Fjeld]

Maybe this applies.
We have buried electrical service, but I don't think it matters.  I have 
been told the NEC now calls for four conductor service to include a 
ground wire from the transformer.

I depend on a ground tree.  I like the perimeter wire Don, w3fpr describes.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/17/2017 4:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:
> Hi,
>
> This is totally off topic; I apologize.
>
> I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
> radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
> two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
> swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
> rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
> could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
> "green wire" came from.
>
> But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
> they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
> neighbors have no ground rods installed either.
>
> Knut - AB2TC
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; Feedline question

[Richard Fjeld]

Okay, and thanks to all for the info which I will save.

What made me curious is that twin lead is stated in steps of 150 ohms. 
IE. 300, 450, 600.
I assumed it was to match the impedance of certain antennas such as a 
folded dipole, etc.
Since I understand my loop to be a non-resonant antenna, and using a 
manual tuner, I thought
I'd be okay to change the spacer dims, but I wondered if I was 
over-looking something.

Thanks again,

Dick, n0ce



On 4/15/2017 11:39 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> Forgive me for the OT, but there are many antenna people here above my
> pay-grade.
>
> I need to replace the spacers on my ladder line.  If I deviate from the
> standard spacer length for impedance
> (separation between conductors), are there problems I'm not thinking
> of?  I use a quality manual tuner, and
> an 80 meter delta loop.
>
> Perhaps it would be best to reply off line for this.  Thank you in advance.
>
> Dick, n0ce
>

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[Elecraft] OT; Feedline question

[Richard Fjeld]

Forgive me for the OT, but there are many antenna people here above my 
pay-grade.

I need to replace the spacers on my ladder line.  If I deviate from the 
standard spacer length for impedance
(separation between conductors), are there problems I'm not thinking 
of?  I use a quality manual tuner, and
an 80 meter delta loop.

Perhaps it would be best to reply off line for this.  Thank you in advance.

Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: anti-static mat advice

[Richard Fjeld]

That is unusual.  I am surprised it is made of rubber unless it is for 
the floor, in which case rubber may be better.
I bought a mat about a year ago that seems to be made of a vinyl-like 
material.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/5/2017 11:56 AM, David Cutter wrote:
> Just received a new black mat and it has an extremely strong rubber smell; I 
> wouldn't mind some but this is obnoxious and I can't use it in the house, so 
> I'm about to reject it.  I get the feeling that it is not completely cured.  
> I bought it from a good company but just thought I would ask the folks on the 
> list if they've ever had this experience.  My previous mat (grey, can't 
> remember who borrowed it) didn't smell at all.
>
> 73
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; New technology/Graphene

[Richard Fjeld]

Oh, to be younger...


On 3/31/2017 3:21 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> The instant high-power-density graphene ultra capacitors become available at 
> reasonable cost, we’ll be designing them into our radios. Could be the 
> biggest breakthrough since the Leyden jar.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; New technology/Graphene

[Richard Fjeld]

Here is another video about Graphene that is much nicer to look at.  : )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4oW6PcOUtc

On a serious note, think about how it could change the hobby. Her closing 
statement is good.



On 3/30/2017 4:22 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

(If this has been mentioned before, I apologize.)

In looking for information on new battery technology, I found some
interesting talks on YouTube about Graphene tied to battery development.

Graphene is revolutionary.  Relative to an Electron, the thickness of
Graphene is said to be two dimensional.

I don't know which is the most informative link.  This is one of
several. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh3dA8xnZ4Y

I foresee the possibility of this bringing changes to the hobby, not
only in batteries.  (Consider invisible antennas as you watch the video.)

Dick, n0ce




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[Elecraft] OT; New technology/Graphene

[Richard Fjeld]

(If this has been mentioned before, I apologize.)

In looking for information on new battery technology, I found some 
interesting talks on YouTube about Graphene tied to battery development.

Graphene is revolutionary.  Relative to an Electron, the thickness of 
Graphene is said to be two dimensional.

I don't know which is the most informative link.  This is one of 
several. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eh3dA8xnZ4Y

I foresee the possibility of this bringing changes to the hobby, not 
only in batteries.  (Consider invisible antennas as you watch the video.)

Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s; Digital modes, specifically DV

[Richard Fjeld]

There are several FreeDV videos on YouTube.  Here is one that is a quick 
start guide.  I don't know if there are restrictions for posting links.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zijJ556cs08

Dick, n0ce



On 3/28/2017 8:00 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
> I loaded FreeDV today, on an Ubuntu i5-64bit laptop. It works quite 
> well.  I heard no calls on 14.236 MHZ, but the receive function is 
> working.  I'm having the usual fun setting up PTT, but it will come 
> along over time.
>
> Tried doing the same thing on the Windoze 7-64 box, and Panda AV 
> decided it was a virus and sidetracked it, meaning it IS a virus.   
> That would be the installer program.  Has anyone else had this 
> problem?  Just curious. I've had other programs trigger Panda to flush 
> them, but nothing like this.
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> matt W6NIA
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3s; Digital modes, specifically DV

[Richard Fjeld]

Another fellow about 125 miles away experimented with me on 75 meters 
during a summer evening in conditions we would not have wanted to 
operate in otherwise.  We were surprised to find that fading was more of 
a problem.

Dick, n0ce


On 3/28/2017 10:57 AM, Brian Pietrzyk wrote:
> I second this! I've played with FreeDV too and it has some great 
> possibilities. The only issue run into is there's only a small group of 
> people using it so it's often hard to find someone else on to talk to. I find 
> It works best on the higher (and quieter) frequencies such as 20m and up. So 
> you have to catch an opening and find people that are the right distance away 
> and monitoring in FreeDV mode.
>
> I really hope we can get more people interested in FreeDV and if it could be 
> added into the K and KX series firmware update that would help it grow.
>
> Brian ve3bwp
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3/K3s; Digital modes, specifically DV

[Richard Fjeld]

Greetings to all,

The K3/K3s is an excellent radio for digital modes due to the ease of 
interfacing with a computer if desired.  A computer is not even needed 
for some digital modes, and I have tried that successfully.

I have mentioned in the past that I had tried the free software for 
digital voice on HF called 'FreeDV'.  I had worked a Canadian ham a few 
times using it and he has been keeping in contact with me via email 
encouraging me to get back into it.  I am starting to get up to date 
again, and I found accurate reviews of it on 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/11016   by K2RWF and WA0TPN.  I think 
you will find the reviews interesting and informative.

Notice that the reviews seem to be either at, or near, 5/5 or 0/5. I 
think both of the reviews I mentioned answer why that is.  I will keep 
my experience mute and let you glean aye/nay from the reviews. Whether 
you approve of digital voice or not, the K3/K3s is a natural for using 
it, and it's fun.  (As always with digital modes, be kind to your finals.)

FYI,
Dick, n0ce


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 update utility download removed (i.e. blocked) by Norton Internet Security in Windows 7

[Richard Fjeld]

The first thing I do when I buy a new computer is to un-install any 
third party virus/security software that is on it, before it can become 
embedded.
I am  very satisfied with Windows Defender.  It has surprised me a 
couple times by catching Trojans with a high warning.

Dick, n0ce


On 3/18/2017 12:42 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> After I got tired of both Norton and McAfee and dumped them years ago, I
> have been using AVG without incident for at least a decade now. And doing
> research via the WEB, I'm all over the place downloading files, etc., from
> unknown sites as well as dealing with attachments to e-mails daily.
>
> AVG has a free version but you must remember to manually update it daily. I
> willingly pay for good stuff that works, so I have a paid subscription.
> Costs about $22/year for each machine.
>
> I've considered switching to Windows Defender but also avoid fixing things
> that aren't broken.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: OT; New Lithiom battery

[Richard Fjeld]

I hadn't seen this article yet, but it is the same person.  One of the 
reports I read said he doesn't have the Cathode ready yet.

His new battery is sometimes referred to as 'Lithium' but is said not to 
have Lithium in it.  It doesn't explode, and it doesn't grow whiskers if 
charged to rapidly.

Thanks by the way,

Dick, n0ce


On 3/10/2017 10:43 AM, David Christ wrote:
> Is this what you are referring to?
>
> <https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/245490-new-solid-state-battery-chemistry-glass-electrolyte-same-guy-pioneered-lithium-ion-cells>
>
>
>> On Mar 10, 2017, at 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld <rpfj...@outlook.com> wrote:
>>
>> John B. Goodenough
> David K0LUM
>

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[Elecraft] Elecraft: OT; New Lithiom battery

[Richard Fjeld]

There are several reports being circulated today about the inventor of 
the Li-on battery.

The reports say 94 year old John B. Goodenough has invented a new 
Lithium battery that will have three times the capacity, 1200 
charge/discharge cycles, and be good down to -76 F.

Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Chinese ebay amps for KX3

[Richard Fjeld]

The way the wire is wound through the tubes in the photo reminds me of 
the 100W PA section in the Heathkit HW/SB-104 transceiver.

Dick, n0ce


On 2/20/2017 5:03 AM, Hajo Dezelski wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I use this one:
> http://pa-11019.blogspot.de/2016/11/diy-kits-70w-ssb-linear-hf-power.html
> and it works without any problem.
>
> 73 de
>
> Hajo dl1sdz
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: be careful what you open

[Richard Fjeld]

FWIW, I've had the 'UN-deliverable package' email, but Windows Defender 
warned me.  I recognized it as a phony about the same time.  Still, I 
was impressed with Defender.

I've been getting several phone calls from the Ransom-ware people, and I 
tell them they should be ashamed of themselves.  They hang up immediately.

Dick, n0ce


On 2/12/2017 5:04 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
> Kevin, you are correct.  It's not the "spam" per-se, but the 
> likelihood that people on this list are receiving trojan horses, and 
> opening them.
>
> I know this address appears in exactly one place: here.  It was 
> harvested from this list in one way or another.
>
> It's possible someone found and signed up just for the purpose of 
> harvesting, but that takes time, and anyone who is harvesting is going 
> to find the easiest way possible.
>
> That's a trojan horse.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] power issues

[Richard Fjeld]

I find where the voltage drop is much like checking the drop across a 
resistor in circuit.  ie. use a volt-meter across each end of the 
segment under test. (The volt-meter is parallel to the segment being 
tested)   It may be just a poor connection, or not.

Dick, n0ce


On 2/4/2017 6:17 PM, George Thornton wrote:
> I did some checking today on my voltage to the K3 using two different routes.
>
> I am using an Astron RS-35m power supply.  It was tuned up to output slightly 
> under 14v.  Normally it mediates through a PG40s backup and switching device, 
> connected to three 140AH backup batteries as well as the power supply.
>
> When I connect the K3 power through the PG40S distribution panel I read 13.3 
> volts at the K3.  This drops significantly when I transmit, going down to 
> under 12 volts.
>
> I then direct-wired the K3 lead to the Astron using ten gauge wire and a 
> relatively short lead.  Power at the K3 then reads 13.8 and drops only to 
> 13.7 during transmit.
>
> Since I had failures attributed to erratic power supply, my conclusion is the 
> K3 should only be run via a short, large gauge lead direct to a power supply 
> in good order.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 9:1 Balun AND "random antennas"

[Richard Fjeld]

Jim,

If you don't object, I'd like to save this and forward to people as 
arguments develop on these subjects.

  I wish you had touched on '4:1 baluns'.  Except for this group, so 
many people I talk to think a balun should be 4:1, even in their 
tuners.  I think it is DX Engineering that addresses this well.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/31/2017 12:50 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> All of this discussion becomes badly confusing by failing to describe 
> these circuit elements by their real name. The word "balun" is a 
> bastard -- it is widely used to describe nearly a dozen things that 
> are VERY different from each other.
>
> W4TV got it right by adding the correct description, and this post 
> starts to get at it, but adds another bastard word, unun.
>
> Two-windings that are coupled by a magnetic field are a TRANSFORMER.  
> If the two windings have a terminal in common, they are an 
> AUTO-TRANSFORMER. A coil of coax is a common mode choke (and not a 
> good one). A section of transmission line wound around a ferrite core 
> is a COMMON MODE CHOKE, and if well designed (choice of ferrite 
> material, number of turns) can be a very good one.
>
> Transformers and auto-transformers transform impedance by virtue of 
> their turns ratio. Arrays of common mode chokes can also be used to 
> match circuits of different impedances.
>
> Last I looked, there was no description of the Elecraft "balun" 
> telling us what it is. Perhaps Eric or Wayne could add that to the 
> catalog listing for it.
>
> Another point. SWR is NOT an indicator of how well an antenna works. 
> High SWR DOES increase loss in a feedline, but that matters only with 
> long feedlines and small diameter coax. That does NOT matter for 
> typical portable (or even mobile) operation, where feedlines are much 
> too short for loss to matter.
>
> A high value of SWR as seen by a transmitter DOES limit that power 
> that the transmitter can put into the antenna. That's where the 
> antenna tuner comes in -- it transforms the impedance at the 
> transmitter end of the feedline (or the end of a wire plugged into the 
> coax connector combined with the counterpoise connected to the 
> chassis) to the 50 ohm resistive impedance that the transmitter wants 
> to drive.
>
> If we make RF current flow in a wire, it will radiate. How well it 
> radiates depends, of course, on its orientation. A wire laying on the 
> ground doesn't radiate very well. :)  A wire without a counterpoise 
> will use whatever it sees as a signal return. If that return happens 
> to be the earth, the earth, which is essentially a big resistor, will 
> burn much of the transmitter power. The "good" lengths of wire Wayne 
> and those spreadsheets list are simply lengths that are likely to 
> present an impedance within range of most antenna tuners for the bands 
> that the operator is likely to use.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 1 5/8 inch hard line FOR SALE

[Richard Fjeld]

FWIW, I have two pieces of 1 5/8 inch hard line that are new, and have 
been stored in-doors.  As near as I can determine without uncoiling it, 
I calculate about 75 feet for each piece.  I was planning to make my own 
connectors, but I have not had an application that would utilize the 
hard line's low loss. And, I'm too old to do it now. As you may know, 
for a size comparison, a piece of RG8 easily slips into the center 
conductor with room to spare.

I would sell it, but not try to ship it.  I suggest a buyer would pick 
it up in person.  I live in west central Minnesota.  I don't remember 
the brand name if that matters.
I could see what it says on the cable.  The copper itself must have 
considerable value.  A person can't go wrong if we agree on a win-win price.

Dick, n0ce


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[Elecraft] K3: past chirp report

[Richard Fjeld]

A few weeks ago, someone had received a chirp report.  Did that ever get 
resolved?

Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Leakage

[Richard Fjeld]

I like using Lithium-Ion batteries in a variety of sizes.  But having 
read about the possibility of fires, I have moved
my spares to a metal ammo box.  My flashlights are metal.  Cell phones 
and such are not metal so I try to keep
them away from flammables when unattended.

However, I noticed you said 'Lithium' not Lithium-ion.  Consumers have 
been using Lithium batteries for years.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/16/2017 2:29 AM, jonlevy73 wrote:
> Had some Lithium AA fail.  They smoked and caught on fire.  This was not in a
> radio.
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Battery-Leakage-tp7625770p7625779.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Website Hacked?

[Richard Fjeld]

I agree.  I got rid of Chrome for the same reasons you describe. The 
latest Firefox is good.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/3/2017 7:46 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> David,
>
> I access the Elecraft website 3 to 4 times a day.  Mainly the manuals 
> and the order pages, and have never had a problem.  I use Firefox.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/3/2017 6:40 AM, Dave Fifield wrote:
>> I've been noticing that every now and then, when I'm on the Elecraft 
>> website
>> looking around, my Chrome browser will get re-directed to spurious ad
>> websites instead of the link I clicked on the Elecraft site. Anyone else
>> noticed this?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Coaxial Transfer Switches

[Richard Fjeld]

I just bought a DPDT toggle switch to replace a winch control with push 
buttons.  The guy at the counter said his catalog specs showed 50 A at 
12 volts.  That seems hard to believe, but it seems rugged and I needed 
it now.  I bought it at NAPA auto parts.  It was about $12 incl sales 
tax.  One thing that may have driven the price up is that I needed a 
momentary with center off.  They had enough to chose from that he had to 
look it up in his parts book.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/2/2017 2:51 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Just did some shopping on the Internet and found transfer switches by 
> Teledyne starting at about $275.  Did not find any Birds, used or otherwise, 
> and the Transcos I found were in the $800 range.  I confess this was a very 
> quick search.
>
> Interesting that many if not most of them require 28 VDC.  Anyone know why?  
> Is that a marine application?  These seem too heavy for aviation.
>
> The subject is of interest because I have two MFJ SPDT switches, neither of 
> which I particularly like.  One of them works fine if the switch knob is 
> toggled back and forth a few times.  And that’s the one that’s been indoors 
> all its life.  Anyone found something DPDT, store-bought and acceptable, in a 
> moderate price range?
>
> Ted, KN1CBR
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

[Richard Fjeld]

This sounds the same, and I made it to protect the front end of each 
radio by switching the radio not being tested to my dummy load in case 
one of the radios should transmit. I intended my switch for receive 
comparisons.  I am surprised the commercial switches can handle a 
kilowatt and provide adequate isolation.  I wouldn't want to use that 
kind of power with the switch I made.

I didn't know about the switches you mention.  I thought there should be 
a need for them, so I called MFJ.  I like to protect my equipment. I 
know guys who don't think this way. Maybe MFJ didn't sell any and 
discontinued them. At the time, I thought they described them rather 
vaguely, missing the whole purpose.  Maybe I haven't found them on their 
website now.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/2/2017 7:06 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> Several companies (Bird, Transco) make what you describe.  It is a four
> terminal coax relay called a "Transfer Switch" that for example, connects
> any two antennas to any two radios, but never at the same time.  In other
> words, radio A connects to antenna 1, and at the same time, radio B connects
> to antenna 2.  Activating the switch ( either mechanical or electrically
> activated) changes the condition for A to 2 and B to 1.  Most are good for a
> kilowatt well up into the UHF ranges.   For HF, I made one using a heavy
> DPDT relay.
>
> 73 Charlie k3ICH
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} - Variation on use of a coaxial switch (stan levandowski)

[Richard Fjeld]

Years ago, I built such a switch to prevent accidents should one radio 
transmit when comparing two radios. It is basically an a/b switch such 
that a radio became the active radio by switching the antenna to it, and 
simultaneously switching the dummy load to the inactive radio. Neither 
radio is without a load regardless of the switch position.

My switch is just a prototype using an aluminum project box.  I called 
MFJ and suggested they build one. A couple guys got on the call with me, 
and not long afterward, I saw a product advertised that seemed to be 
it.  It had decent specs for isolation. I can't find it on their site 
now.  The only thing that comes close to it might be the MFJ-1705, but 
they are describing it differently and there is no schematic.

If this isn't the correct switch, It could easily be converted. The 
important hardware is there.  I think I used a DPDT switch (I could 
check mine).
It should have the small coax wired between the connections. I Don't 
remember the nomenclature for that.

Dick, n0ce


On 1/1/2017 5:18 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I've also have thought about running a switch so I can switch between a 
> couple of radios here (and a way to idiot proof it).
>
> I have considered building up something using relays (or a manual switch) 
> that would switch each radio into either a dummy load or into the antenna 
> path.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Chirp?

[Richard Fjeld]

I remember the rig as being solid state, but that was years ago, and I'm 
slipping.
We will need another person's same experience to enlighten us.
I mentioned it because it is easy to expect the worst, and overlook 
something simple.

Dick, n0ce


On 12/29/2016 10:17 PM, K9MA wrote:
> On 12/29/2016 21:40, Richard Fjeld wrote:
>> If the key contacts did not make good contact, it caused a chirp.
>> I would describe it as a 'dirty' sounding chirp, but it was a chirp.
>> Other keys worked fine.
>>
>> Dick, n0ce
>
> Sounds like the old days of cathode keying!
>
> 73,
>
> Scott K9MA
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Chirp?

[Richard Fjeld]

If the key contacts did not make good contact, it caused a chirp.
I would describe it as a 'dirty' sounding chirp, but it was a chirp.
Other keys worked fine.

Dick, n0ce


On 12/29/2016 5:57 PM, Nr4c wrote:
> How?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>> On Dec 29, 2016, at 6:06 PM, Richard Fjeld <rpfj...@outlook.com> wrote:
>>
>> I once had a key that was prone to cause chirp.
>>
>> Dick, n0ce
>>
>>
>>>> On 12/29/2016 3:27 PM, Doug Smith wrote:
>>>> I was in the CW SS in November using my then new K3S with an ACOM
>>>> 1500.  All of which was *great*.
>>>>
>>>> But, then, I received an Official Observer Advisory Notice that I was
>>>> “emitting a CW signal with a chirp”.  The report detailed a QSO that
>>>> is, indeed, in my SS log.  I was running on 20 meters at the time.
>>>>
>>>> FYI, the ACOM is on it’s own 240 VAC circuit and the K3S is on it’s
>>>> own 120 VAC circuit.  The rest of the shack is on a separate 120 VAC
>>>> circuit.
>>>>
>>>> Since receiving the report I’ve listened to my signal on two
>>>> different receivers and I do not hear a chirp.  Is there any possible
>>>> way I could have somehow misadjusted the K3S during the contest that
>>>> would result in a chirp?
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>> Doug, W7KF
>>>> http://www.w7kf.com <http://www.w7kf.com/>
>>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Chirp?

[Richard Fjeld]

I once had a key that was prone to cause chirp.

Dick, n0ce


> On 12/29/2016 3:27 PM, Doug Smith wrote:
>> I was in the CW SS in November using my then new K3S with an ACOM 
>> 1500.  All of which was *great*.
>>
>> But, then, I received an Official Observer Advisory Notice that I was 
>> “emitting a CW signal with a chirp”.  The report detailed a QSO that 
>> is, indeed, in my SS log.  I was running on 20 meters at the time.
>>
>> FYI, the ACOM is on it’s own 240 VAC circuit and the K3S is on it’s 
>> own 120 VAC circuit.  The rest of the shack is on a separate 120 VAC 
>> circuit.
>>
>> Since receiving the report I’ve listened to my signal on two 
>> different receivers and I do not hear a chirp.  Is there any possible 
>> way I could have somehow misadjusted the K3S during the contest that 
>> would result in a chirp?
>>
>> 73,
>> Doug, W7KF
>> http://www.w7kf.com 
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna

[Richard Fjeld]

With reference to below, I have a question please.  I put up a quarter 
wave inverted-L for 160 meters.  My only counterpoise is the ground rods 
at the base of the tower.  I wasn't expecting much, but it does so well 
I'd like to add a decent counterpoise.

If I bury a quarter wave wire, would it be best to put it under the 
Ariel wire, or opposite from it?
Thanks in advance,
Dick, n0ce


On 12/29/2016 10:16 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I think this is mixing up 1/2 wave radiators and 1/4 wave radiators.
> To be resonant, a 1/4 wave wire needs another 1/4 wave "counterpoise" 
> - think of a center fed dipole - it has 1/4 wave on each side whether 
> one side is a monopole (vertical) and the other 1/4 wave is an 
> elevated radial or buried radials of indeterminate length, or whether 
> it is a dipole with the center in the air.
>
> A 1/2 wave radiator fed at the end theoretically does not need any 
> counterpoise, but in practice it does - but only needs to be about 
> 0.05 wavelength long.
>
> Refer to some antenna books (the ARRL has a good one) or the ARRL 
> Handbook for good information about basic antennas.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/29/2016 10:30 AM, Fred Moore wrote:
>> With an end fed 1/4 wave you only need a counterpoise that is about .05
>> wave length.  it can be the coax or another counterpoise. Although a
>> counterpoise has some effect on radiation pattern of a quarter wave
>> radiator, it is minimal.   You won't see much improvement in performance
>> by going above .05 wave length..  it's not worth the trouble to increase
>> the counterpoise length..   Fred
>>
>>
>> On 12/29/16 9:01 AM, mjisted wrote:
>>> Looking at your text message on the elecraft board. About a half wave
>>> length ...here is a question for you. I'm going to put up a half
>>> wavelength of wire for the 5 mhz band. ..hyendfed can I use a quarter
>>> wave length of counter point as a radiator ground plane. ..
>>> The. ..G0MVP.
>>>
>>> mjis...@btinternet.com
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>>>
>>>
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: Fred Moore
>>> Date:29/12/2016 13:04 (GMT+00:00)
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna
>>>
>>> Don,
>>>
>>> Thank you very much, for pointing out a very common issue that gets
>>> mixed up into discussions.  Your point is so valid the random wire
>>> always seems to get mixed into the 1/2 wave discussion for some
>>> reason..  and should never be mixed together.  you are absolutely
>>> correct..   thanks again regards..  Fred
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/29/16 12:33 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Scott,

 If the radiator is not a half wave long, it is not a "half wave".
 Yes, a random length wire may work, but please do not call a random
 length a half wave - the length of a half wave is quite specific.
 Similarly, a quarter wavelength is a specific length at a particular
 frequency.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/28/2016 11:20 PM, K9MA wrote:
> The counterpoise for an end fed half wave (or multiple) really 
> doesn't
> have to be anywhere near a quarter wave long.
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>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Fred Moore
>>> email: f...@fmeco.com
>>>f...@safes.com
>>> phone:  321-217-8699
>>>
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>>> and is
>>> believed to be clean.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Richard Fjeld]

FWIW,  comments to consider about open wire feedline from my experience:

Window line has shattered in the cold winter winds. Frost, snow, and ice 
easily accumulates. It catches the wind easily.
On the plus side, window line conductors do not fold over on each other. 
Conductors stay evenly spaced.

Ladder line does require measures to keep conductors from twisting and 
folding over on each other. As Ron mentions, tension is necessary.
Ladder line has less problems in inclement weather. Ladder line is much 
better in the wind.

I designed my loop and ladder line so that I can melt ice off it. That 
would be more difficult to do with window line.

Dick, n0ce


On 12/28/2016 12:01 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Wes makes an excellent point: "window" line and open wire line are not the
> same. Both the resistive losses in the relatively tiny wires in the window
> line and the webs of insulation impact its performance as described in his
> paper.
>
> My open wire line is homebrew, using #10 or #12 copper wire spaced with
> common "dog bone" insulators sold for end insulators. They hold the wires
> about 3 inches apart. Typically, one spacer every 3 or 4 feet is quite
> adequate to maintain the spacing with the lines under tension.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with P3

[Richard Fjeld]

As I remember, the P3 is un-affected by settings on the K3.  Nice if you 
use the RF gain control, etc.

As for the signals rising and falling in S units because of a stronger 
signal, I am at a loss to explain at the moment.

Dick, n0ce


On 12/12/2016 8:37 AM, GW4DVB wrote:
> Hi... I have a K3 with P3
>
> When using on 40m and higher I notice that a stronger signal on the band HF
> and LF affect the background noise level of the band and signals in general
> rise and fall by up to 3 S points.
>
> Assuming that the P3 is only displaying what comes out of the K3 I am
> assuming that this is a setting that needs working on within the K3
>
> ATT = On
>
> Pre  = Off
>
> Has anyone else come across this and found a fix ??
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Fixing Slow Internet

[Richard Fjeld]

FWIW, I had an interesting, but frustrating, experience just recently.  My 
internet would get so slow that we would need to quit streaming during part of 
a movie, etc.  At times, it would speed test at 0.02 Mbits.  Another odd thing 
was, using an Ethernet cable was slower than Wifi at times. I was power cycling 
often.

I'll keep this short.  I purchased DSL modems and routers of a respected brand 
name.  I checked settings several times. I have a former IT guy for a friend.  
I finally called my IP provider and they saw that it was slow.  When he got 
here, he saw my 10 Mbit service at 3 megs.  He changed the wiring and installed 
a splitter isolating my phones from my modem.  Still slow, so he changed the 
modem and now have 10 megs.  (I live rural)
I was blown away.

I still had trouble steaming video to my TV using an Octacore Android box.  Did 
some testing and determined it had a fault using a cable.  I turned off 
Ethernet and enabled wifi and all is beautiful.  I can speed test thru the box 
at about 9+ Mbits.  What should have been better was worse.


Dick, n0ce

On 12/10/2016 12:02 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

One problem with wifi that is sometimes hidden is QRM from other wifi users on 
the same channel. I live in a big apartment building and when I look at the 
display of a "wifi analyzer" app on my phone, the 2.4 gHz band looks like 20 
meters during the CQWW contest. 5 Gig is better because fewer people seem to be 
using it and the signals are attenuated more by walls, etc.

Vic 4X6GP


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S/N1MM communications failed.

[Richard Fjeld]

Peter,

Maybe something like this could be related to your problem.

I recently lost all my USB ports.  They were dead. I let Windows 10 
check for a better driver
and it said I had the best one.  So I went to the Lenovo website and put 
in my model
and s/n, and it came up with a full screen to have me update the 
driver.  Problem fixed!

The moral of the story is; watch out for drivers.

Dick, n0ce


On 11/23/2016 4:42 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> My travel laptop upgraded itself to Windows 10 earlier this summer. I have
> had no occasion or reason to fully dismantle my home station to test it out
> until today, the day before I leave for CQWW in VE3 but I have a
> show-stopper problem that I can't seem to fix.
>
> I have no communication between N1MM+ and the K3S, using the USB cable
> supplied by Elecraft. Last year it all worked 100% reliably under Windows 7.
> Since the upgrade something has obviously changed.
> When I plug the K3S into the computer a new port shows up in Device manager
> (COM-9 in this case). I launch N1MM+ go into the configurer and select COM9,
> click SET and, using the same settings that work on my desktop system,
> nothing's happening. I'm using 38400, N-8-1, DTR=PTT, RTS=Always Off, Radio
> Nr. 1, Foot switch none, radio polling rate Normal. None of the checkboxes
> are checked. I have also selected both DTR and RTS to Always off, which has
> also worked in the past. Nothing. No CAT control, no CW send, nothing. I'm
> completely dead in the water. I am leaving tomorrow morning (Thursday) and
> need to get this going or I'm completely sunk.
>
> Like I said, last year it worked 100% on the first try. Today, nothing.
> Other than the Windows 7 to Windows 10  forced "upgrade" in July, various
> forced patches, etc, and an update to N1MM+ yesterday nothing has been done
> to this computer in a year. No new hardware or software. Any help gratefully
> appreciated. Please feel free to contact me via my QRZ.com email address as
> well.
> 
> Regards,
> Peter Dougherty, W2IRT/VE3THX.
>   
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - static discharge

[Richard Fjeld]

This is a huge problem in Minnesota due to the extreme cold causing 
humidity on the windows and turning to ice.
It is difficult to hit a happy medium between avoiding static and wet 
windows.

As for protecting my  equipment, I have mentioned keeping a grounded 
wrist strap around an Altoids can
by my stuffed chair. When I get up from the chair, I touch the can to 
discharge my static build up.
At the K3, I touch the end of a small resistor that is connected to a 
ground point on the nearby outlet
and protrudes above the face-plate from it's back.

Dick, n0ce


On 11/11/2016 8:16 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> Yes, but they typically DO use a three wire (case at ground) power cord.
> I make it a point to touch the metal side of the computer before anything
> else.
>
> A couple other recommendations would be to buy a cheap digital humidity
> indicator and put one or more humidifiers* around the house.
>
> I'm not sure what is the ideal humidity level, but our house here in
> Virginia it would get down under 30% which results in lots of sparks AND
> split fingers.
>
> I try to get it nearer to 50% which seems to help both those conditions.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
> *I don't recommend  the old fashioned steam units which simply have two
> electrodes immersed in water such that the steam is created from the
> electric current between them.  Obviously, pure laboratory H2O won't work,
> but a pinch of salt in the water makes the house lights dim (HI), neither of
> which is a desirable situation.   I don't like the ultrasonic units either
> because for some reason, they caused a lot of dust to be deposited on our
> flat screen TV.  My opinion is that the best types are the ones that use a
> wick element and fan to put moisture in the air.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 8:50 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - static discharge
>
> To prevent static discharge problems with my computers, I have a bare ground
> wire attached to the side of my desk. I touch it when I first sit down. In
> the winter, it does draw a spark. Most computers are not well designed or
> protected.
>
> That said, I had no idea the K3 was susceptible to ESD - via the K-Pod.
>
> Bill W2BLC K-Line
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
> delivered to pin...@erols.com
>
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[Elecraft] K3: Cold Temps/ follow up

[Richard Fjeld]

This is a follow up to recent post from someone in California who 
noticed less output when operating in below freezing temps.

In the thread that followed, I mentioned the relationship of cold to 
gain and biasing to prevent
thermal runaway.  My last ARRL Handbook is a 2009 edition and 'Thermal 
Runaway' can be found
in the index.  You may find it interesting.

Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Windows Emulator

[Richard Fjeld]

Just a suggestion;

I don't know what all this would cost you, but $350 can buy a very 
decent Windows laptop.  I bought a Lenovo with an i5 cpu and 8 Gb of ram 
plus an optical drive and more,  from the Microsoft store for that 
amount. You have to watch for good offers.

Dick, n0ce


On 10/12/2016 11:20 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> I give up.
>
> I have tried to be faithful to my decision of a few years ago, to swear off 
> Windows and work exclusively with Mac OS.  But there’s just too much that I 
> want that isn’t available in OS – Spectrogram, for example, and any number of 
> logging programs I’d like to try.
>
> It’s not time yet for a new computer, and I want to keep all of my Mac apps 
> and files intact; so the question is what sort of Windows emulator would be 
> best to install in the Mac computers.  I use a 4-year old MacBook Air as a 
> laptop and an even older iMac on my desk.  Both now run OS X Yosemite and I 
> will not upgrade to Sierra, in case that matters.
>
> Advice?  Thanks in advance,
>
> Ted, KN1CBR
>
> __

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question

[Richard Fjeld]

(I am trying to get caught up on my email. Forgive me if this has been closed.)

This caught my eye, and I agree.  I have found when buying PL-259's that are 
made in a 'metric' country, there can be slight problems converting to the 
dimensions used in North America.

I have chased SWR troubles almost in circles only to find the tip of an 
imported PL-259 was making intermittent contact with the SO-239 socket.  A 
simple fix was to apply a bit of solder to the tip and then file it down until 
I could feel a gentle friction as I plugged it into the socket.

Another important item in a PL-259 is a good tinned surface for soldering.  I 
like the so called 'silver plated' plugs when I can find them.  I don't know if 
they are truly silver plated, but they do take solder beautifully.

Dick, n0ce


On 10/11/2016 11:36 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
On Tue,10/11/2016 6:29 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
I'm curious as to exactly why a "junk" connector supposedly has so much more 
loss than a "good" connector?

Junk connectors have several issues. One of the issues is control of dimensions 
-- the diameter of the tip must be "right" to make a solid and reliable 
connection to the mating connector. I've seen junk barrels, tees, and elbows 
that had a tiny spring between the ends of the connector.

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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

(Please note something is happening to my use of Thunderbird email 
client on my end, so I don't know what is being sent)

Yes Bill, I agree with you and the voltage assessment.  Back a number of 
years ago, mobile radios specified 13.8 Volts, and their performance was 
greatly reduced at 12 Volts when the charging circuit was not operating.

Dick, n0ce


On 10/6/2016 3:40 PM, Nr4c wrote:
> It's nice someone finally acknowledged my post about the battery as part of 
> the culprit.
>
> I too have had LCD screens go blank in the cold. And I realize the 
> electronics have limits as well.
>
> But note that many small low power radios are very sensitive to battery 
> voltage. If it's too low, the radio draws more current the get the required 
> power level which draws down the voltage even more, and on, and on.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

Igor,

Minus 10C is about plus 14F, which is well below freezing. I would think 
that was adequate for a good test of output at cold temps.

The experience that I cited about an early rig not operating for several 
minutes was at about minus 30C or colder.
It may have been pre-vfo days, and could have been the crystal which I 
had not considered until Fred mentioned it.

Thank you,

Dick, n0ce


On 10/6/2016 2:40 PM, Igor Sokolov wrote:
> Dick,
> My experience operating K3 at temperature of minus  10C shows that 
> there were no  noticeable drop of output power. I did not test it at 
> lower temperatures.
>
> 73, Igor UA9CDC 

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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

Fred,
What is the typical winter temp when the radio works, but no display?

Also, you mentioned crystals not oscillating at cold temps.  That may 
have been happening in the past when I thought it was due to low gain in 
the oscillator circuits.

Thanks,
Dick, n0ce


On 10/6/2016 1:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> I have an older IC-2800H VHF/UHF radio in my truck.  It has a color 
> LCD TV display.  The truck is parked on the driveway [a little too 
> long for the garage] and in the winter, I can turn on the radio, and 
> it works, however the display is blank for several minutes until 
> things warm up a little.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Sparks NV DM09dn 

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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

Igor and Ed,

I found your posts interesting.  Thank you both.

The original thread was about a K3 operating in the cold below freezing 
temps, and reduced power was observed. I think the question was asked if 
we could answer why.

Someone posted with a question if the battery was cold. That may have
been pertinent.

I was curious. I posted about what I had been taught years ago 
concerning solid state circuit design. As of those designs, it is my 
understanding that solid state radios will have reduced performance in 
cold temps.

I'd like to know if this is true with designs today. Perhaps you, and 
others, will post some findings on this question as you operate in the 
cold.

(Most radios today, have LCD screens and that will hamper the findings.)


73,
Dick, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

On 10/4/2016 7:16 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
I've not tried running my K3 at outside temps,

Hello Ed,

I would caution you against trying your K3 in those temps.  Minus 60 
degrees F. is the coldest on record for Minnesota, and you experience 
far colder that that. The cold may do multiple things to the K3 if it 
has multi-layer circuit boards.  I didn't notice if it does.

Our club left a repeater in an unheated enclosure one winter. I would 
estimate it wasn't much colder than minus 30 degrees F. at that 
location. (To clarify for others, this is 30 degrees F. below zero.)  I 
have seen what the multi-layer circuit board looked like. More 
specifically, the thru-the-hole solder connections from one layer to 
another were cracked. Maybe it was the type of solder used???

I'm sure circuit designs have changed since the first solid state rigs I 
described in the cold.  LCD screens hadn't been heard of yet.  I'm 
surprised they don't freeze and get damaged in your temps.  It is 
interesting to read of your outdoor experiences.

73,
   Dick, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] Cold K3

[Richard Fjeld]

Hi Bill,

It is a characteristic of transistors.  I have always been taught that they 
need to be biased down to about half their safe output to avoid thermal 
runaway. That was a long time ago. Things may have changed.


As they heat up, they increase their amplification, as they amplify, they heat 
up, and so on.  Cold temps works the opposite.


In the early days of solid state mobile rigs, and during Minnesota winters, we 
could turn on our rigs and get nothing but maybe a back-light on the dial.  
After a few minutes, it would start to have sound coming out of the speaker, as 
the circuit and components warmed up.  It also affects the oscillators.


Dick, n0ce





From: Elecraft  on behalf of Bill Frantz 

Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2016 12:14 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Cold K3

During the California QSO Party, the temperatures in our
operation tent dropped below freezing. Two of us felt that we
were not getting full power out of our K3s when the internal
temperatures were low. Given that we were using the K3 to
measure power output, low temperatures could be affecting the
measurement rather than the power.

After sending CQ for 5 or 10 minutes, the K3s warmed up and the
output power rose to normal. Too bad calling CQ didn't warm the
operators as well. HIHI

Since we were getting about 90% power with the internal
temperatures at zero C, it is not a major issue, but we are
curious. Has anyone else experienced this effect?

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Concurrency is hard. 12 out  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | 10 programmers get it wrong. | 16345
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |- Jeff Frantz | 
Los Gatos,
Periwinkle Computer Consulting - pwpconsult.com
www.pwpconsult.com
Security Communications Quality Assurance Promoting Community Through Secure, 
Reliable Computing. Periwinkle is a husband and wife team with over ...



CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Flex SDR panadapter

[Richard Fjeld]

Maybe, but consider that some SDR pan adapters exhibit false images if 
not properly 'set up'.  I can't think of a better description for it.

Dick, n0ce


On 9/23/2016 9:51 PM, Gary wrote:
> Listening to a Flex operator making assertions that the k3 exhibited USB 
> spurs, 3khz above the 7.120 frequency being used.
> I am curious to hear from the learned group here.
> The k3 in question was using the upgraded synthesizer.
> Gary
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

[Richard Fjeld]

G=1/R as I remember it.

Yes, I wanted to reply to Alan's method, but I have been away.  I wanted 
to re-read it to see if he allowed time to determine if a cap was leaky 
first.  It was a clever idea.  I have two Simpson's so I should be able 
to duplicate the test, if I can round up exposed metal pans.

I bought my anti-static mat online.  I'm at a loss concerning specs.  I 
file everything, but after doing so for more than 50 years, things 
aren't found quickly.  I don't remember receiving specs, either.

Static discharge is an on-going concern for me. I humidify in the 
winter, and try to stay around 40%.  I keep a grounded wrist-band around 
a tin breath mint container on the table beside my recliner for watching 
TV.  When I stand up, I touch the tin to discharge myself. Otherwise, I 
zap my video equipment. Humidifying helps, but it's no guarantee.

At my workbench, I have a four outlet metal box that is grounded so that 
I can touch it regularly to bleed off any static build-up.  I can be 
'sure' that it is grounded, but I have to 'trust' that my wrist strap 
and anti-static mat are.   Maybe I'm a 'belt and suspenders' type of guy.

Dick, n0ce



On 9/20/2016 12:41 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> Simplest way I know: Conductivity = 1 / Resistance. All you need is a 
> slide rule. :-)  But seriously,
>
> Alan's method ... charge a capacitor to a known voltage, discharge it 
> through the mat to a lower voltage measuring how long it takes, and 
> use the RC time constant to calculate the resistance ... is about the 
> simplest and maybe the most ingenious.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Sparks NV DM09dn

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

[Richard Fjeld]

I stand corrected.  I didn't realize the resistance was that great.

I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than 
measuring the resistance.

Thanks for the answers.

Dick, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

[Richard Fjeld]

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I 
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the 
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.



On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of 
> anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and 
> not necessarily to 'ground things').
> For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them, 
> and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the 
> black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on 
> my anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads 
> on the mat.  That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds 
> of my mat will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat - 
> there should be no static potential difference between items that 
> reside on my mat.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio quality

[Richard Fjeld]

I usually use a Yamaha CM500 headset which I like very much.

For an external speaker, early into the hobby I made a nice walnut frame 
with grill cloth to house an old speaker from a Muntz TV, if you 
remember those. It became a keepsake.

Dick, n0ce


On 9/16/2016 8:49 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> I have yet to use any internal SS radio's speaker except for an occasional 
> test or possibly a portable set-up.
> They may as well leave it out as far as I'm concerned.  NONE of them come 
> anywhere close to the sound quality I get from simple outboard speakers.
> (Note, this does NOT include the over-priced, cheap speaker in a metal box 
> often sold as a matching "accessory" by the big-three.)
> Personally, I find the recovered audio from my K3s, feeding two little 
> computer speakers to be the best of any modern radio I have ever used.
> That said, it's hard to beat the audio from an old boatanchor radio with 
> push-pull 6V6's driving a big 12" speaker cabinet.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jump starter system for K3 portable power?

[Richard Fjeld]

Rick,
I don't know if you will find something that meets all your 
requirements. Perhaps you will need to modify something that has the 
hardware you want.

In my limited exposure to jump starters, I have found that the data is 
sometimes vague. I have had the same brand be both good, and sorry.  I 
have also found unusual sized gel-cells within. So I want to consider 
battery replacement.

There are 'boat' batteries that are a compromise for both deep cycle and 
starting.  They come with some weight, and charging considerations.

I will be interested in the replies you receive.

Dick, n0ce


On 9/12/2016 7:49 PM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm looking for one of those hand carried jump starter/ portable power units 
> for occasional field use for my K3 plus the rare car jump start in a pinch.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. "High end operator"

[Richard Fjeld]

Maybe  'astronaut'?

Dick, n0ce


On 9/5/2016 10:47 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
> Someone please define "high end operator".
>
> Sounds like some form of snobbism worming it's way into the slang of the
> hobby  (;-)
>
> 73
>
> K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Heath kit and the Lazarus Loop

[Richard Fjeld]

I seem to remember a 2 meter mobile that got recalled and shredded per 
FCC direction not long before the company closed down.


Dick, n0ce

Ohm sweet Ohm


On 8/8/2016 2:47 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

I remembered Heathkit as having first been an airframe manufacturer which got 
into electronics after the War.  I just checked the history, one version of 
which can be found here:  http://www.heathkit.nu/heathkit_nu_HeathStory.html.

Apparently the company was sold to Daystrom as early as 1955.  Zenith bought it 
in 1979, after the company had diversified far afield from the electronics kit 
market. My first TX was a DX-20, which I built in 1957.  I remember later kits 
coming out into at least the middle 70s.  My last one was an HW-101, more or 
less 1973, and there were several years of good kits after that.  So it lasted 
at least that long under Daystrom, a substantial corporation by that time.

It may be that Heath’s demise came less from a lack of entrepreneurship than 
from a lack of focus on the market where it had mastered its route to success.  
The introduction of personal computers at around the same time probably played 
a role as well.  It would be interesting to know whether any of the MBAs on the 
list know of a Heath Inc. B-school case.

The “Lazarus Loop” may be well named – apparently the company had cycled 
through bankruptcy more than once even in its early days.  The site noted above 
tells the tale.

R.I.P.

Ted, KN1CBR


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Heathkit clocks are back!

[Richard Fjeld]

Lazarus loop;  I love it.

Dick, n0ce


On 8/8/2016 1:12 PM, John Pitz wrote:

Unfortunately Heathkit seems to be stuck in some sort ofLazarus loop.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. Tuner losses

[Richard Fjeld]

Eric closed the G5RV thread, so I will change this subject as it is not 
related to the G5RV.


On 8/5/2016 11:57 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:


On 8/4/2016 4:00 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
It's true that tuner losses are the manufacturers' dirty little 
secret. Loss is rarely specified, partly because it can be pretty 
bad, and partly because it is hard to measure, but also because it is 
not constant - it depends on the particular impedance being matched. 


I read about tuner losses often, and I've seen figures posted, but 
whenever I try to determine it, I can't.  The only way I can determine 
tuner loss is by signal reports.  While participating in round tables 
on 80 meters, I go down in power as low as the K3 will go, and the 
participants in state, and in an adjacent state or two, still hear me 
as evidenced by carrying on a discussion.  I use open wire feedline 
with a loop cut for the bottom of 80 meters.


I know this is not an accurate way to measure tuner loss, but the loss 
doesn't seem to be a problem. ???


Dick, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] OT:. G5RV's

[Richard Fjeld]

On 8/4/2016 4:00 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
It's true that tuner losses are the manufacturers' dirty little 
secret. Loss is rarely specified, partly because it can be pretty bad, 
and partly because it is hard to measure, but also because it is not 
constant - it depends on the particular impedance being matched. 


I read about tuner losses often, and I've seen figures posted, but 
whenever I try to determine it, I can't.  The only way I can determine 
tuner loss is by signal reports.  While participating in round tables on 
80 meters, I go down in power as low as the K3 will go, and the 
participants in state, and in an adjacent state or two, still hear me as 
evidenced by carrying on a discussion.  I use open wire feedline with a 
loop cut for the bottom of 80 meters.


I know this is not an accurate way to measure tuner loss, but the loss 
doesn't seem to be a problem. ???


Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Using Linux - OT

[Richard Fjeld]

That is what I was using.

Dick, n0ce


On 7/31/2016 11:38 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Edge is a bit lame until the new release (Tues is it?); won't take 
plug-ins, they say.


I prefer Firefox :-)

Phil W7OX

On 7/31/16 9:17 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I agree with Guy, and want to add a comment;

I have had a couple strange things happen.  Both turned out to be due 
to running a non-Windows browser.


Before you cuss out Windows 10, try the user groups for clues. Save 
yourself some time and make Microsoft Edge your default browser.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/31/2016 11:10 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
After waiting 6 months I gave in to the Windows 10 nagware, and 
upgraded my

and my wife's Win 7 Pro machines.

Regardless of how one might compare Windows and Linux, both our 
conversions
have been stable as a rock, apparently the best version of Windoze 
that we

have ever had.

Running ham stuff on Win 10 is a better deal now. It was a little 
spooky
not being able to closely control the upgrades in Win 10, but that 
hasn't

made any difference thus far.

YMMV, but have a really good reason to go to Linux. You may want to 
try Win
10 before you invest all those resources (including your valuable 
time) in

a conversion to Linux.

73, Guy K2AV


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May He protect each and every one of us. May He guide me in the days to come.
(From Franklin Delano Rosevelt's inaugural address 3/4/33)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Using Linux - OT

[Richard Fjeld]

I agree with Guy, and want to add a comment;

I have had a couple strange things happen.  Both turned out to be due to 
running a non-Windows browser.


Before you cuss out Windows 10, try the user groups for clues.  Save 
yourself some time and make Microsoft Edge your default browser.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/31/2016 11:10 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

After waiting 6 months I gave in to the Windows 10 nagware, and upgraded my
and my wife's Win 7 Pro machines.

Regardless of how one might compare Windows and Linux, both our conversions
have been stable as a rock, apparently the best version of Windoze that we
have ever had.

Running ham stuff on Win 10 is a better deal now. It was a little spooky
not being able to closely control the upgrades in Win 10, but that hasn't
made any difference thus far.

YMMV, but have a really good reason to go to Linux. You may want to try Win
10 before you invest all those resources (including your valuable time) in
a conversion to Linux.

73, Guy K2AV



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Re: [Elecraft] Cleaning a K3

[Richard Fjeld]

I read about guys whose rigs were flooded a few years back, and they 
washed them in water and dried them somehow.  Said they worked fine 
after that.  Hard to imagine though.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/27/2016 1:15 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
My S3-line acquired a chronic case of creeping fungus on the chassis 
while packed up and stored in the Philippines for 4 years.  Returning 
home, I took it to the DIY car wash a couple of times and then dried 
it in the sun.  Seemed to work really well, except for the fungi 
living in the IF cans.  YMMV, I won't be doing that to my K3 however.


I'd be real wary of any kind of solvent(s), circuit boards used to be 
washed with distilled water, maybe still are.  Here in No NV, our 
humidity runs in the single digits in the summer, things dry in the 
sun very fast.


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV
Washoe County DM09dn


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Re: [Elecraft] comparing P3, LP-Pan, SDRPlay, others?

[Richard Fjeld]

Not all pan-adapters are created equal.  Some suggestions;

Compare the images of one to another.

Look for images that are sluggish and exhibit a delay between what is 
heard and what is seen due to the computer involved.


Also look for false images that are mirrored, etc.  (That may take 
experience to notice.)  The same image may be appearing in more than one 
place on the band at the same time.  Best done at the widest bandwidth 
setting.


Compare the bandwidth capability of the various units.

Compare the features included in the various units.

Compare the ease of operation.

Dick, n0ce


On 7/27/2016 10:39 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Absolutely agree with Stewart. 73, Guy K2AV.

On Wednesday, July 27, 2016, Stewart Bryant  wrote:



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Re: [Elecraft] Power has disappeared

[Richard Fjeld]

I apologize for this, but being it's a new rig it has to be said; could 
there be any confusion in the antenna jack selection?

I haven't followed how it is equipped.

Dick, n0ce


On 7/26/2016 7:48 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:

I'm a new owner and all worked fine.  After an absence of a few days I came
back to no power out, or , at least, very little.

Rig is the 100W version with ATU working into a dummy load.  In CW mode
adjusting the power level to 70W produces only a one segment power out.
Running the ATU produces a 5W indication, the usual searching rumbling, but
no resultant SWR. The Test mode is NOT in operation.

I have restored to the last working config via K3 Utility, but suspect I
must have "hit" something to limit the power.  The FP and AMP temps were too
high (35C) when the problem was noticed. I set them down to a more
reasonable 23C without effect. Input voltage is 12.8V.

Probably something trivial, but suggestions would be appreciated.

Chris
NQ8Z





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Re: [Elecraft] Cleaning a K3

[Richard Fjeld]

Be careful if using a vacuum cleaner.  A static build-up can develop.  I 
have seen it cause arcing.  That may have been a hose with metal fittings.
There is also a metal spring inside the hose that can conduct. Perhaps 
an attachment with a brush for the hose will avoid a discharge.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/27/2016 2:07 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:
My K3 (and P3) were used in a very dusty environment in eastern 
Nevada. Some people there compared the dust levels to those at burning 
man. Does anyone have any advice about cleaning the equipment?


73 Bill AE6JV

--- 


Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is *not* the
www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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Re: [Elecraft] Power has disappeared

[Richard Fjeld]

I don't think you stated, so I will ask;
Did you check the circuit breaker in back?

Dick, n0ce


On 7/26/2016 7:48 PM, Chris Kimball wrote:

I'm a new owner and all worked fine.  After an absence of a few days I came
back to no power out, or , at least, very little.

Rig is the 100W version with ATU working into a dummy load.  In CW mode
adjusting the power level to 70W produces only a one segment power out.
Running the ATU produces a 5W indication, the usual searching rumbling, but
no resultant SWR. The Test mode is NOT in operation.

I have restored to the last working config via K3 Utility, but suspect I
must have "hit" something to limit the power.  The FP and AMP temps were too
high (35C) when the problem was noticed. I set them down to a more
reasonable 23C without effect. Input voltage is 12.8V.

Probably something trivial, but suggestions would be appreciated.

Chris
NQ8Z



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft grey in a rattle can?

[Richard Fjeld]

Hey, while we are at it, would one of those hand-held electric sprayers 
work well enough to spray that Paint?


Dick, n0ce


On 7/26/2016 6:32 PM, Michael Bower wrote:

Many years ago, I had a piece of Heathkit gear that needed a touch up.  I
took one of the side panels to Home Depot. They scanned the panel and made
a custom mix that matched perfectly (except the finish).

Maybe taking an Elecraft panel to them would give you the color you need.

Michael N4NMR

On Tuesday, July 26, 2016, EricJ  wrote:


I bought an EC2 to put my KPA100 and KAT100 in. That left a blank top
cover, front/rear cover sitting on a shelf. I recently made two side covers
and a bottom cover for it which I want to paint as close to the original
EC2 panels as possible. Most of the rattle can greys are more blue than the
Elecraft grey which tends towards a brown tone almost.

Anyone run across a rattle can color that comes close?

Eric KE6US
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Transmitting CW in SSB mode

[Richard Fjeld]

Phil,
I use that feature on my K3, and I have done it many times.
To answer #1,  they say they hear me perfectly when we are on the same 
SSB frequency. It has been handy several times.

To answer #2, I think they will be off by their offset frequency.

Dick, n0ce



On 7/25/2016 10:34 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I have my K3 enabled to allow the sending of CW in SSB mode.  However, I am not 
sure how this actually works.  Therefore, this question.

If the K3 VFO is dialed into 3850 KHz (for example) and the mode is set to SSB 
and my sidetone monitor of the CW signal is set to 700 Hz (not sure if this 
matters), what will the other station here if I send something in CW while in 
SSB mode on my K3.  In particular:

1.  They are also dialed into the same frequency 3850 KHz, what will they hear: 
a tone of 700 Hz, a tone of some other audio frequency, or no tone at all.  My 
only assumption is that they are in SSB mode and dialed to the same frequency 
as I am.


2.  They (the other station) are dialed into the same frequency of 3850 but 
their mode is CW and not SSB while my mode in sending is still SSB.  Same 
questions, what will they hear?

Thanks,

73, phil, K7PEH




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Re: [Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

[Richard Fjeld]

Hello David, (and Alan), and thanks to John for the link showing the 
added parts.


David, your PS sounds very similar to the one I built, also in the 
70's.  Mine has four 3055's on very large heat sinks that are overkill, 
but I didn't know what to expect.  It was at a time when we were going 
from high voltage PS for tubes to Low voltage PS for solid state.  I had 
not seen a low voltage supply to power a 100 watt rig yet.  So I went 
heavy duty.  My diodes for the full wave bridge I made were stud mounted 
on 1/4 inch aluminum pieces for heat sinking, and mounted on wood to 
insulate them from each other. There were no full wave bridges in a 
package yet.


I'm curious how your supply trips out, and if you used a relay?   It 
seems to me that I did that, and when the 723 clamps down, the relay 
drops to open the primary.  I have not had the time to review the 
schematic diagram, but as I recall, if a pass transistor shorts out, the 
crowbar may try to shunt the unregulated voltage, but the situation is 
not going to be good.  That is why I like the device ad5x is showing on 
his website.  It will protect the radio from over-voltage by blowing a 
fuse in the DC line.


If Alan is reading this, I'm wondering if I missed where that 
'strategically placed diode' is located?


Dick, n0ce


On 7/22/2016 10:16 AM, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:

I have a couple of homebuilt DC regulated supplies that I built a great many 
years ago, the first is a simple 3A 13.5V one that was the very first supply I 
ever built and it used a 723 with a single 2N3055 series pass transistor. I 
remember I bought a lovely oil filled mains transformer for it, but 
accidentally wired up the 120V windings in parallel instead of series for our 
240V mains and watched it start to bulge when I switched it on. (after I put a 
bigger fuse in it).  I ended up using another transformer and the power supply 
is still in daily use, built in the early 70's.

I later built a 25 Amp version with 4 3055s and a 723 with overvoltage trip, 
and also short circuit protection. It can be shorted out and with barely a 
spark it trips out and has to be reset before it comes on again. No fuses to 
blow and replace, no destroyed series pass transistors. I built it in a chassis 
that was lying around and 35 years later it is still in daily use and still not 
got a proper cover made for the chassis.  I checked the output the other day on 
my scope to see if there was any hum or ripple and on full load I had 10mV p-p 
of noise. Regulation still excellent.

Nothing much wrong with the humble 723.

I have seen some truly awful "commercial" supplies with no short circuit 
protection, that blow the series pass transistors like fuses, or worse make them into 
short circuits that apply the full unregulated supply on to the load.

73 from David GM4JJJ


On 22 Jul 2016, at 15:55, Alan Bloom  wrote:

The 723 regulator has some known reliability issues, but with proper design 
they can be mitigated.  In particular the differential voltage on the error 
amplifier inputs is only rated for 5v.  If one input is connected to the 7.15V 
reference, then if the power supply output is shorted the voltage rating is 
exceeded.  The solution is a strategically-placed diode.

Alan N1AL





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Re: [Elecraft] Linear PS Recommendations

[Richard Fjeld]

I was glad that I caught Jim's remark about blowing the 723 by being 
connected to a battery with the PS off.  And also Myron's answer.


Back in the tube TV days, I purchased a bare circuit board at Radio 
Shack, (I think). The board was similar to an Astron circuit board, but 
simpler.  I rewound a heavy transformer from a color TV and made my 
first 13.8 Volt power supply to use for a Heathkit HW-104.  Years later, 
the 723 went bad.  It may have been due to the stated reason, I can't 
remember now.  I did some repair work on it and still have it.


Someone on the reflector provided the following link one time, which I 
think is a good idea for an extra measure of over-voltage protection or 
accidental reversal in polarity. I remember discussion about a reversal 
that happened to someone on the reflector not long ago.


I hope the link still works on here.  If it doesn't, it is on ad5x dot 
com website. Look for a Vprotect pdf file.

http://ad5x.com/images/Articles/Vprotect.pdf

Dick, n0ce



On 7/21/2016 7:41 AM, Myron Schaffer wrote:

Jim and Clay,

It used to be that waythe RS linear models could not tolerate external 
voltage present when unpowered, not anymore. Astron has incorporated 
back-voltage protection through incorporation of some diodes installed in key 
locations to prevent this.

You can verify if your supply has this modification by looking at the circuit 
board and see a 1N4001 type diode soldered across 2-pins (can't remember which 
ones off the top of my head) of the IC voltage regulator LM-723 chip and others 
hung in various places to protect the pass transistor as well. Usually soldered 
to the solder side of the circuit board so they are easy to spot. I can't 
remember is there were some small capacitors added as well.

Any newer (like newer than 1990) linear Astron will have these installed.

Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data


-

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Richard Fjeld]

Kevin,
I will be interested in anything you find.  I have a RS-50M and I am not 
aware of any noise as you describe.  It may be my hearing.


I do have a line isolator in-line left there from the days when I had a 
G5RV.  That is the only time I have known of RFI.  It was pretty bad.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/20/2016 5:03 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

A follow-up to the situation.

I purchased a PWRgate PG40S. On one side I have a marine battery. On the
other side I've got an Alinco DM-330MVT. In the middle is the KX3 and the
Flex. Only one has an antenna at any time.

I added a line isolator right below the BALUN of the OCF and another one
right at the rig input.

At this point there is no difference in the noise level on the KX3 when
comparing internal batteries vs the power setup described above. The Flex
is also not showing anything of concern on the waterfall.



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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

I have forgotten so much over the years, but I am left with the 
understanding that gold against gold does not suffer metal migration.

Now dirt is another ballgame.  And so is condensation.

As the name 'DeoxIT' suggests oxidation to me, I answered the way I 
did.  I don't think gold oxidizes.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/19/2016 3:13 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:

The contact doesn't exist in a vacuum and is thus potentially exposed to
whatever exists in the air at that location. Over time, regardless, the
connections may require maintenance.
Example: I flew as Aircrew for the Navy. Most of our gear was sealed. Even
being sealed a re-seat of a circuit card or cleaning of the edge fingers
often brought faulted gear back into functional status.
Perhaps if we create d a vacuum around our gear it wouldn't be as much of an
issue?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Fjeld
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2016 3:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

It is my opinion that with gold plated contacts, nothing should be needed.

It is also my opinion **never** to touch gold plated contacts.

(I keep some Caig DeoxIT on hand.)

Dick, n0ce


On 7/18/2016 10:50 PM, Rich Assarabowski wrote:

What's the consensus on the best stuff to use on all contacts and
connections during assembly of a new K3?   Caig DeoxIT Gold G-series
(formerly ProGold)?   Stabilant 22A?   Something else?

--- Rich K1CC





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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

It is my opinion that with gold plated contacts, nothing should be needed.

It is also my opinion **never** to touch gold plated contacts.

(I keep some Caig DeoxIT on hand.)

Dick, n0ce


On 7/18/2016 10:50 PM, Rich Assarabowski wrote:

What's the consensus on the best stuff to use on all contacts and
connections during assembly of a new K3?   Caig DeoxIT Gold G-series
(formerly ProGold)?   Stabilant 22A?   Something else?

--- Rich K1CC




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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

I think they also make a product for potentiometers called 'Fader lube' 
or something similar.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/17/2016 9:24 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I use the canned stuff on noisy potentiometers where I give them a shot
through one of the openings.

On any contacts, I have a 2 oz bottle with a needle applicator that puts
exactly what I want where I want it.

Servicing ancient radars and other shipboard gear with relays and many
connectors, that tiny 2 oz bottle has lasted me more than a decade!

73, Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

I think they also make a product for potentiometers called 'Fader lube' 
or something similar.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/17/2016 9:24 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I use the canned stuff on noisy potentiometers where I give them a shot
through one of the openings.

On any contacts, I have a 2 oz bottle with a needle applicator that puts
exactly what I want where I want it.

Servicing ancient radars and other shipboard gear with relays and many
connectors, that tiny 2 oz bottle has lasted me more than a decade!

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Reuben
Popp
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 6:33 PM
To: Chris Meagher; Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

Hey Chris,

On my older hollowstate stuff, I usually spray a quantity into a small cup
and then use a q-tip to apply deoxit to areas in a controlled manner.  That
might not make as big a difference on newer equipment, but I was always told
it was a good idea around phenolic tube sockets.

GL and 73
Reuben

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:28 PM, Chris Meagher  wrote:


Hi
When the can arrives, I plan to deoxit front panel connections on an
early
K3
which has tinned connectors.
This is to try to fix erratic VFO behaviour while tuning.
Any hints on how to do this effectively? thanks

Chris
VK2ACD
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--
In this dedication of a Nation we humbly ask the blessing of God.
May He protect each and every one of us. May He guide me in the days to come.
(From Franklin Delano Rosevelt's inaugural address 3/4/33)

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies

[Richard Fjeld]

Kevin,
As I mentioned, I think this will depend on the Voltage Regulation level 
in the receiver.
The Elecraft gear operates down low in voltage pretty well.  I have 
experienced what
you describe with other gear I have owned,  but I have not compared if a 
difference is heard
when going from a lower battery voltage to a higher PS voltage with 
Elecraft gear.


I understand your problem is mainly with the RS-50.  If you don't have a 
scope, you
could put your DVM on AC and see if any AC can be measured on the 13.8 
DC output
terminals.  Try with, and without, some load. It's not a good test, but 
something to try.


BTW, my experience with talking to Astron has been very good. They will 
help you.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/15/2016 4:01 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:

Thanks Dick and Howard...

The RS-50 is pretty new - maybe 6 months old and is in daily use. It wasn't
until I had a rig I could easily run on batteries did I notice the noise.
The RS-12 is quite old, maybe 15 years? It had been in storage about 10
years until trying it out today. I think I need to dig into the RS-50 and
just make sure everything is soldered and connected well.

As for common mode currents in the antenna... would that only be an issue
during transmit? I have an OCF so I know it can be an issue on transmit.
The OCF has a 1:1 current BALUN in the center. Is that enough or do I need
to add some additional choking just below the BALUN? I have a couple of the
NI4L line isolators (http://www.ni4l.com/hf-choke-line-isolator-1-8-300-mhz/).
I could put one up there and see what it does. I also have plenty of
clip-ons laying around. I'll try them on the power lead from the supply to
the radio.

The reports above were with *receive only* (with and without an antenna
attached). On the RS-50 the hum I'm hearing is what I think I'd expect to
hear from a less-that-well filtered linear power supply. The hash/hiss
noise I hear sounds more like a switching power supply, which it is not. I
don't know what in the power supply could be generating that noise.

The RS-12 does not have either the hum or hiss that I can hear. It just
sounds like the noise floor bumped up a little. I'm thinking Dick is right
and it is just the receiver responding to the increased voltage though it
is only about .5 volts above the external battery pack I was using.

Is every power supply going to generate a little noise or should I expect
no difference moving from battery to power supply?

Kev


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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion

[Richard Fjeld]

Hi Guy,

(Interesting, and nice writing, BTW)
I share your experience with batteries, only from the Bell side of 
things.  We ran the major switching centers you described.
We had individual cells that held 50 gallons of acid in each cell. A 
graph was kept for each cell.  They lasted many years.


My reply is addressing your comments *_only_* about 'floating' lead acid 
batteries on the 12 volt line.


Yes, you are correct with your statements about using a three step 
charging process for best charge.  I have been using a
lead acid boat battery floating across my 12V DC line to allow me to 
quickly end a qso, and properly shut down my K3
during a power outage. Most of the time the outage is short and I can 
resume my qso as if nothing happened.
I do not otherwise discharge/recharge it.  (My concern is hydrogen gas). 
Yes, a UPS can work.  I trust this arrangement more.


A deep cycle boat battery is intended for charge/dis-charge cycles 
repeatedly. It sometimes stays in a discharged state for hours or days
in high heat or cold before getting recharged again at a single step 
rate.  Despite these conditions, they last pretty well but decline 
gradually.
A deep cycle boat battery may be overkill for me if I don't intend to 
operate with it, but who knows what could happen?


Once again about lead acid batteries, if optimum is the goal, then I 
think the biggest thing we lack in our consumer
batteries today is not being able to monitor or charge individual cells. 
I prefer cells with removable caps for maintenance also.
How else can one tell what the specific gravity is, or the electrolyte 
level?   I can remember when car batteries
had the bus exposed so we could read the individual cell voltages. It 
was common practice to apply a  'boost-charge'
to a weak cell to bring the voltage up. I hate to see all the batteries 
becoming 'maintenance free'.   But DSFDF.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/15/2016 5:38 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

My first encounter with the rather complex issues of battery floating and
discharge were with AT Long Lines in the 60's, where we had such things
as 10,000 ampere 12 VDC supplies for many thousands of tube filaments, with
delta 440 AC driving huge motor generators in parallel, and strings of low
gravity 2' x 2' x 5' single cell batteries floating across the discharge
bus, and end cells to switch into the string to maintain 12 volts as the
batteries went into their normal discharge curves.

Carelessness in the battery room could get you burned, blinded, possibly
killed. Also having a major switching center go down because of batteries
in Washington, DC, could get one in a lot of trouble with various branches
of government. We had Bell Laboratories, Bell System Practices, and lots of
management in our ear all the time about how to do the batteries. Zero
tolerance for battery screw-ups, for any reason.



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Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S

[Richard Fjeld]

John,
I haven't read all the replies yet. I'm sure you will get a variety of 
responses, such as mine.


About 40 years ago when color TV's were more expensive, my neighborhood 
got a momentary hit in the power, and it came back with a voltage spike 
that took out too many TV's to count.  To prevent that from happening to 
my ham gear, I made a box with multiple outlets all switched by one 
relay that locks up through it's own contacts.  I have momentary push 
button switches to operate, or release, the relay.  Should the power 
take a momentary hit, the relay drops and opens the AC line to my 
equipment.  If the power comes back with a voltage spike, my equipment 
doesn't see it. (This may result in a discussion about MOV's)  I have a 
100 watt station.


I prefer to float a battery across my 12 volt line to allow me to 
properly shut down my equipment should the power go out.  I have had 
several qso's with people who use 12 V battery power exclusively. Some 
live where there is no power grid.


Also, I have a UPS that powers a lamp at my operating position so that I 
can see to power down my equipment.  I hope to eliminate this with a 
good 12 Volt LED lamp when I find one.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/11/2016 1:36 PM, stengrevics wrote:

To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an
uninterruptible power supply (UPS).  Does anyone have any experience doing
this?  If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S?

My apologies if this has been previously discussed.  Please do provide a
link if it has.

73,

John
WA1EAZ






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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Richard Fjeld]

Reuben,
I think Rob Sherwood answers this question best with his receiver 
ratings. Google Sherwood labs.

Dick, n0ce


On 7/3/2016 4:44 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:

Hey everyone, happy early 4th to you and yours!

I'm looking for a bit on input here.  I've had my K2 now for quite some
time now; built it myself and love it still to this day.  But, because
every guy and gal needs a new radio every now and then, I've got that itch.

I've had my eye on a K3 probably since I first saw the advertisement in QST
some years back.  I'm not a contester.. heck, I *still* don't have my
ticket, so my main use is SWL and running up and down the bands to listen
in on some of the nets.  My antenna is just a half size G5RV slung along
the apex of my roof but I've wanted to get my hands on the K3... that
is until now.

In the past week I found out about the Icom 7300, which for all intents and
purposes is one heck of a nifty radio too.  And at $500 less than what the
10W K3S.  That's a nice chunk of cheddar in these days and times, doubly so
as Popp #2 will be arriving here come September (on my birthday no less,
hah).  The downsides are (at least to me) is that there's little in the way
for adding on new features to the set short of via software updates.
There's no second antenna option, etc, etc.

Granted, I'm not looking at getting either one anytime in the immediate
future.  Or, if I miraculously get one somehow, something is seriously
wrong, and someone has replaced my XYL with the Stepford model... come
please make sure I'm okay, lol.  But in all seriousness, help me decide
here.  Which is the better bang for the buck in the long run?  I'm willing
to bet that this will be the last rig I get for quite some time yet, so I
had best make it count.

Thanks in advance to all and 73
Reuben
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Equalizer comment

[Richard Fjeld]

Yes, I have a narrow span like that programmed into one of the P3 
buttons for quick selection. His audio was centered around 500-600 Hz.  
Several guys with pan adapters ultimately tried to help him.  I signed 
off and let them work with him.  I heard him the next day and his audio 
was better but still room for improvement. Everyone had been giving him 
bad audio reports and he sounded choked up with disappointment. It is a 
new radio.  Enuf said about that.  We have it good.


Dick, n0ce


On 5/22/2016 2:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
One of the first things I noticed after getting the P3 and poking 
around the phone bands was how frequently a station's audio was 
concentrated right next to the suppressed carrier.


K9YC helped me set my TX EQ, and the goal was to cut the lows [next to 
the carrier frequency] which consume a lot of the RF power and 
contribute little if anything to intelligibility.  With a 5 or 6 KHz 
span, the display is very striking and signals with a desirable 
spectrum seem to be a bit rare.


I don't frequent SSB very often, but when I do, usually in an NAQP or 
Sweepstakes, I regularly get unsolicited "Great audio" comments with 
Jim's settings.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Equalizer comment

[Richard Fjeld]

By looking at how his signal filled out the voice band in the waterfall, 
and also the pattern of it on the display.  It is a crude test using a 
person's voice. Audio reports were the final test. He wasn't able to 
adjust it by monitoring his own voice.


It would be better if the transmitting station had something like an  AF 
generator audibly coupled to the microphone to do a freq run within the 
voice band at a constant audio level.


Dick, n0ce


On 5/21/2016 9:01 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Sat,5/21/2016 7:54 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
I was asked to help a ham get the transmit audio on his new import 
equalized.  What an experience!


How did you use the P3 to do this?

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] RX eq

[Richard Fjeld]

I like to use my RX EQ settings to reduce noise from static.

Dick, n0ce


On 5/21/2016 11:34 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:



On 5/21/2016 11:11 AM, Fred Moore wrote:

Well, that really sucks when you are moving between cw and other modes..
oh well, hopefully it will be added..  thanks for the reply.. Fred


What sucks?

The K3/K3S stores separate RX EQ settings for CW and SSB. The 
appropriate setting is recalled based on the operating mode.  I have: 
CW =  -16, -16,  0, 0, 0, -6, -16, -16and

SSB = -16, -16, -6, 0, 0, +3,  +5, -16

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV



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[Elecraft] K3 Equalizer comment

[Richard Fjeld]

I'm not one to get mushy about my things. I try to remain objective, but 
I want to make the following comment;


Because I have a pan adapter (P3), I was asked to help a ham get the 
transmit audio on his new import equalized.  What an experience!

It made me realize what a fine equalizer design the K3 and K3s has.

And hello to new K3s owner Ken Arck.  It's been a few years, and the 
controller is doing fine.  I wish my K3 was an 's' model.  Enjoy!


Dick, n0ce
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 eHam Review

[Richard Fjeld]

Have you considered using either 18650 or 14500 lithium ion batteries?  
They are rated at 3.7 volts, but I find when charged, they are typically 
about 4.2 volts.
Three of them will be a bit over 12 volts.  I have 18650 cells that are 
9800 mAh each.  There is another cell that is shorter, but I can't 
remember it's nomenclature.


Dick, n0ce


On 5/18/2016 1:27 PM, George Cortez via Elecraft wrote:

If Elecraft can make a lithium ion battery for the kx2, Can they make a 
retrofit for the KX3? Please Please!It would lighten up the package and extend 
run times and overall be so much better than the AA battery pack!
George NE2I





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Re: [Elecraft] circuit breaker

[Richard Fjeld]

I have seen breakers let go for no apparent reason.  It seemed like it 
was a mechanical failure in the breaker.


Dick, n0ce


On 5/16/2016 5:27 PM, Rick Bates (WA6NHC) wrote:

Is it possible that it 'belched' and the power reset is what really fixed it?

73,
Rick WA6NHC

Tiny iPhone keypad, spell check happens


On May 16, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Todd Ruby  wrote:

Well Ron, I guess there's a first time for everything. Although the radio was 
deaf and dumb, I had display function and it looked as it normally does after 
turning on the power. There was just no receive nor output power.

I turned it off, pressed the 20 amp circuit breaker on the rear panel and sigs 
were coming through the headphones and I had full power.

Today it's also operating perfectly.

73

Todd


On May 16, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

Todd responded to me off the reflector that he lost all power to the K3 so it 
wasn’t the 20A breaker. That only controls power to the KPA3. The front panel 
is still powered and the receiver continues to work.

I suggested it might be the self-resetting breaker inside the K3. That will 
turn it off completely. Actually power will still be on the KPA3 module and 
anything plugged into the 12V external power connector on the K3 rear panel, 
but the K3 itself will look dead with no front panel lights, receive or other 
functions until it cools and resets itself.

I’ve never had an issue with either breaker opening unexpectedly.

73, Ron AC7AC

From: a...@sbcglobal.net [mailto:a...@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 12:18 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; 'todd ruby'; 'Elecraft Reflector Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] circuit breaker

I believe Todd is referring to the breaker on the K3, not his house panel 
circuit?
Ron has some good advice, but I wonder how common this circuit breaker operates?

I looked thru my manual for more info on it.  The block diagram shows it as a 
25A fuse,
text and device indicate 20A circuit breaker, but NO  info on the type 
operating curve, or current vs. time for minimum trip?

I have a 10A circuit breaker on my 40Ahr battery supply and it has never 
tripped.  It is a thermal time delay like most house breakers.

Anyone out there have any clue?   Wayne?

Mike  AC5P



On Monday, May 16, 2016 12:28 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:


The normal underlying cause for the breaker to open is over-current. That's
a 20A breaker that protects only the KPA3 100 watt amplifier module. The
first thing I'd do is check the current drain from your power supply on the
band where you experienced the problem. First set the power to 10 watts so
the KPA3 is bypassed and note the total current drain key down. Now crank up
the power and see if the part used by the KPA3 is pushing 20A. For example,
if your total current at 10 W was 3A, does the total at 100 watts approach
23A? IF so, the breaker was simply doing its job. Note that circuit breakers
are not precision devices so it may trip a couple of amperes one way or the
other from 20A.

A primary reason for excessive KPA3 current is a high SWR on your antenna
system. The higher the SWR, the less efficient the KPA3 becomes and the more
current it has to draw to produce the power.

A defective breaker can also start tripping at lower currents.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of todd
ruby
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 9:08 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] circuit breaker

Would anyone venture to guess what would cause the circuit breaker to trip
on a K3? Mine did all of a sudden yesterday. Fortunately, my friend
suggested the reset and voila, I am back on the air. But if there is an
underlying cause, I think it would be wise to be aware of it so as to
preclude this episode from repeating. Any thoughts are welcome.

73

todd

WB2ZAB

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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated

[Richard Fjeld]

Here is a YouTube video of a K3 with a touch screen monitor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6usy-0257NQ

Dick, n0ce


On 4/26/2016 4:16 PM, John Kramer wrote:

Phil, in reality having a touch screen is not all that bad as you make out. You 
really need
to try it. An advantage is that it reduces the clutter on the front panel of a 
rig, by assigning
knobs/buttons to the display screen. The one used in the IC-7300 is really good 
- sensitive
to the touch, but not quite as sensitive as some smartphones. The display of 
the 7300 is
a major leap forward from older generation 7600, 7700 rigs. Very clear and 
responsive.
And smear marks on the screen ? absolutely not - I have had my 7300 for 2 weeks 
now,
and have not yet had the need to clean the display - the display is not that 
glossy mirror
finish like smart phones have. Besides…I prod my touch phone FAR more than I 
touch the
screen of my 7300, and I have no problem with finger marks on my phone….maybe 
once a
month I might clean my phone with a lint cloth…no big deal. Perhaps I might 
clean my 7300
display once every 3 months at this rate…no biggie

73
John







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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] The Long Way 'Round to a Wooden Stand

[Richard Fjeld]

Your weather sounds good to me.  Here in Minnesota, I woke to snow on 
our 30 year old Cedar deck.  Yes, Cedar is good.


Dick, n0ce

On 4/8/2016 5:31 AM, Joel Black wrote:

It is Spring in Alabama. We are now in our fourth week of nice weather (other 
than our typical t-storms) but it won’t last.


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