Re: [Elecraft] QUICK QUESTION

[Ross Primrose]

I'd imagine you can't select the 2M band if the module isn't installed...

73, Ross N4RP

On 02/06/2018 03:58 PM, Michael Goins wrote:

Is their an easy way to tell if a KX3 has the 2 meter module in it without
opening it up?

Mike, k6wmg
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2

[Ross Primrose]

K2s are not factory assembled.

73, Ross N4RP

On 10/28/2017 03:24 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

Ted,
  If the people at Elecraft have done their job and mounted the transistor 
properly with the correct torque on the mounting hardware procedure, no 
additional maintainance is required. I have been in the industry for a LONG 
time .  Three things to remember in the mounting of any RF or high power 
device.  Flat surfaces, minimual mating gu, and required torque. Lack of any of 
these will kill a device if not correct.  I have never required retorqueing 
parts, with one exception.   In 000 copper wire terminals, the copper does 
relax and needs to be retorqued to achieve a gas tight seal connection, but 
that is in industrial application.  Small RF devices only need the initial 
torque to be correct.

Mel, K6KBE

   From: Cameron Francey <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com>
  To: "Dauer, Edward" <eda...@law.du.edu>; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
  Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2017 12:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2

A nice tip which I use when looking for anything in any sort of .pdf manual, Elecraft included as I have accumulated quite a number of them over time is to use the search feature on the .pdf reader.  Ctrl+f on WIndows and cmd+f on Mac and type what I'm looking for.  The index and contents tables are good, but obviously can't have everything in them, so I use the find feature a lot.



Hope this helps.


Regards, Cameron - AF7DK/GM7LQR



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf 
of Dauer, Edward <eda...@law.du.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 8:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] PA Transistors Maintenance in K2

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that after some number of hours of 
operation – maybe 50 – the hardware holding Q7 and Q8 onto the heat sink should 
be tightened, I presume to maintain good heat conduction from the tabs to the 
sink.  But I can’t find that instruction in the manual now.  Anyone know where 
I might have gotten that notion, or did I just make it up?

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR


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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Dual Radios Single Logging

[Ross Primrose]

This doesn't give you real-time logging, but fldigi can export your QSO 
info as an ADIF file which you should be able to import into Logic 9.  
Better than manual ;)


73, Ross N4RP

On 10/4/2017 4:48 AM, G4pelRoss wrote:

Hello Forum.
I have two PC's "A" & "B" running on WIN 10.

I now have two Transceivers:

An Icom 7800 connected to PC "A" via a 232 port/USB serial
converter cable.
This enables my logging Program Logic 9 installed on PC "A" to read 
the frequency, mode, etc from the 7800.

LOgic 9's database is on PC "A".

I have an Elecraft K3s connect to PC "B" via their USB ports, and 
operate my Data modes (FlDigi)

Easypal, CW, Olivia, RTTY, ect, using PC "B".
However I have to*manually*  enter all the QSO's worked on the K3s 
into LOgic 9 on PC "A".


Retaining the USB link between the K3s and PC(B), I would like to 
connect a link between
the K3s and LOgic9 on PC "A", to input the frequency, mode, etc from 
the K3s QSO's.


I only use one radio at any one time, switching the PTT and antenna 
connection's manually.


Ross (G4PEL)

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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Dusting off the old K3 & Considering a KAT3A

[Ross Primrose]

If the cable run(s) between the K3 & the antenna(s) is fairly short, 
it'd be a great choice.  If you've got long runs, being able to tune at 
the antenna might work better, but might also be harder to keep out of 
sight...


73, Ross N4RP

On 8/30/2017 11:19 AM, Joseph M. Durnal wrote:

Elecraft Operators,

I have been off the HF airwaves for several years.  Those darned antenna
restrictions really take the fun out of it.  But after helping staff the
K2BSA operation at the Boy Scout National Jamboree this summer I've really
been itching to get back on the air from home.

I have to come to grips that I'll never have a nice balanced antenna and
that I'm pretty much limited to random runs of wire here and there that can
be well hidden. Right now I have a manual MFJ tuner, but I know that got
old when changing bands or moving from the CW area to phone on 40 meters.
I also have some common second story grounding issues.  I'm wondering if
the KAT3A would be a good investment for my K3 given my situation.

73 de Joseph M. Durnal - NE3R
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] unsubscribing

[Ross]

I have tried to unsubscribe, but it obviously did not happen.
I have sold my K3 so I dont need all the emails.
Best wishes to the group
Ross
ZL1WN
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Re: [Elecraft] line IN and OUT on new computer

[Ross Primrose]

I've had great luck with the iMic on windows 7 & 8.1, never tired 10.  
Also works great with every version of Linux I've tried.


73, Ross N4RP

On 8/13/2017 1:12 AM, wb6r...@mac.com wrote:

Griffin advertises PC compatibility but I've no experience with an iMic and a 
PC but I wouldn't hesitate to try it.

GL - Steve WB6RSE


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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Another really good reason to come to the Visailia DX convention this weekend...

[Ross Primrose]

No, more like 1900...

73, Ross N4RP

On 4/20/2017 1:42 PM, Rick WA6NHC wrote:
It can't be... the curl on the second digit, right most number, 
implies 1500.



On 4/20/2017 10:22 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Isn’t that second red LED from the left labeled “1700”?




On Apr 20, 2017, at 10:11 AM, Rick WA6NHC <wa6...@gmail.com> wrote:

Look closer, it clearly shows an output of 1 KW with a max red line 
at 1500 watts.


Rick nhc


On Apr 20, 2017, at 12:50 PM, Wayne Burdick <n...@elecraft.com> 
wrote:


http://www.elecraft.com/images/visalia1.jpg

Watch this space for further details :)

73,

Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ

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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] logging/k3s control program

[Ross Primrose]

That's exactly the combination I recommend and use with my K3 (no S)...

73, Ross N4RP

On 6/4/2016 4:00 PM, Cliff Frescura wrote:

Hi Jerry,

In regard to:

"4)  It should have support for contest operating."

Most general purpose logging programs have some contesting capabilities, but
there are many aspects of contesting that really necessitate the use of a
dedicated contest logging program.

I would suggest you start with a dedicated general purpose logging program
(my preference is DXLab - http://dxlabsuite.com/ ) and then add a dedicated
contest logging program (my preference is N1MM -
http://n1mm.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php ).

73,

Cliff K3LL/6

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 12:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] logging/k3s control program

Now that I have been operating my K3S for several months 'barefoot' (no
computer) I realize I need a logging/control program. In searching the
interwebby one can be overwhelmed with the myriad of software available. I
would appreciate any input for my needs. I apologize if the following are
pretty much standard in all programs.

1)  I am primarily a dx chaser so a comprehensive log program should
include auto matching to notify me if I have already worked a station and
keep track of dxcc by band.

2)  It should have a field for entering notes (perhaps user defined
fields?)

3)  It should support cw, rtty & some digital modes - which ones? I
haven't a clue as I have never used a digital mode but intend to.

4)  It should have support for contest operating.

5)  It should be able to auto dump to LOTW.

6)  I should be able to export the entire database in some readable form
(suitable for Excel, etc)

7)  It should be able to fully control the k3s/p3 (or is this something
I should have a separate program for?)

To me it seems this is the list I need but the problem is I'm not confident
that I even know all the right questions to ask :(

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jerry, k1tgx
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] K3 and Microham Digikeyer 2 and N1MM

[Ross]

I am setting up my K3 with N1MM, so far I have the K3 transmitting and 
receiving on RTTY, using the Microham.
But my problem is The router and N1mm are not seeing the K3 to report the 
frequency etc.
Can someone please let me know what settings in the router and N1MM will ensure 
that they talk to each other.  Or just the settings in N1MM that will allow it 
to talk to the K3.
Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN 
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[Elecraft] K3 and Microham keyer II

[Ross]

Thanks for the reply Joe,, I didn't explain very well.
I am trying to work with Airlink express,  I have com6 set on PTT2 on the 
router, (com6 shows on the router as open). PTT1 is none (no com port)

And com6 for RTS on Airlink setup.
Going to transmit a red triangle comes up on com6, but only PTT1  LED comes 
on.

Ideas please.
Thanks
Ross
ps: at least the incoming audio is working ok

-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV

Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 12:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Microham keyer II



Using Airlink Express (or any other digital program) I can get the
PTT LED on the Microham to come on but it doesnt bring the k3 into
tx.


*Which PTT LED?*  There are two PTT LEDs on microKEYER II (PTT1 which
is the mic PTT and PTT2 which is the ACC jack PTT) and one on the K3.

As documented in the microKEYER II Users Manual and the configuration
examples for several popular software packages, you should configure
your digital software to generate PTT by raising the RTS line on a
virtual serial port.  In addition, Router/MK II should generally be
configured to assert PTT2 when transmitting digital modes.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

On 5/30/2016 3:25 AM, Ross wrote:


Advice please, I have the Microham working on receive, but I cannot get 
the transmission side going for digital modes.
Using Airlink Express (or any other digital program) I can get the PTT LED 
on the Microham to come on

but it doesnt bring the k3 into tx.
I have plugged the microham into the ACC socket, to try to get the K3 to 
transmit, but that doesn’t work.

I have used the setup given in the Microham manual, so far no luck.
Ideas please as to what I am missing.
Thanks
Roass
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] K3 and Microham keyer II

[Ross]

Advice please, I have the Microham working on receive, but I cannot get the 
transmission side going for digital modes.
Using Airlink Express (or any other digital program) I can get the PTT LED on 
the Microham to come on
but it doesnt bring the k3 into tx.
I have plugged the microham into the ACC socket, to try to get the K3 to 
transmit, but that doesn’t work.
I have used the setup given in the Microham manual, so far no luck.
Ideas please as to what I am missing.
Thanks
Roass
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] K3 and Signallink next the Microham

[Ross]

Thanks for the comments.
The Microham is the Keyer II.
I have connected the line in,line out and the usb cable to the pc, are there 
any other connections I need to make??

Yes the multicore cable from the k3 is the one for the k3 it is marked k3.
Thanks
Ross
-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV

Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 2:21 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Signallink next the Microham



Next to try and set up the microham for digital work.


Which microHAM Interface?

In general, set the K3/K3S to DATA mode and select MENU:MIC SEL =
LINE IN, set Mic Gain (LINE) to about 15 and configure the microHAM
interface audio levels as documented in the "Setting Audio Levels"
section of the microHAM Users Manual.  As a final "touch up" adjust
the K3 "Mic Gain" for four bars of ALC (the fifth bar can flicker).


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV

On 5/29/2016 6:54 PM, Ross wrote:

Thanks for all the comments about the signal link.
I found the problem when checking Airlink express, I had the volume and tx 
levels set to almost zero, in Airlink express so whenI reset them to max, 
everything popped into life and all my other digital programs then worked 
perfectly.


Next to try and set up the microham for digital work.
All advice very gratefully accepted.
Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] K3 and Signallink next the Microham

[Ross]

Thanks for all the comments about the signal link.
I found the problem when checking Airlink express, I had the volume and tx 
levels set to almost zero, in Airlink express so whenI reset them to max, 
everything popped into life and all my other digital programs then worked 
perfectly.

Next to try and set up the microham for digital work.
All advice very gratefully accepted.
Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] K3 and Signallink

[Ross]

I have just checked my K3 again after a couple of months not using it, and I 
have a problem with the Signallink.
Yes I know all the comments about it, but I want to get it going before I try 
to instal the Microham keyer.
On transmit the Signallink is working perfectly, it produces the output and 
keys the k3, but I cannot get any audio, the line in and lineout plugs are in 
the correct positions on the k3.
So can someone please guide me as to what could be wrong, would it be the 
settings on the k3 or something else.
(I have checked 2 digital programs with the same result, transmit is ok, but no 
audio coming through.)

Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Looking for PC advice.

[Eric Ross]

I work at a large corporation that generally keeps the technology reasonably 
current and we are still standardized on Win 7 Enterprise.  I have not run into 
any apps that are supported on Win 10 and not supported on Win 7.  The drive to 
upgrade has significantly decreased.  That is why the upgrade nags were 
implemented.  People are not seeing the need to upgrade.

Eric
KB7TD

> On May 23, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> 
> On 5/23/2016 12:12 AM, F5vjc wrote:
> 
>> Do you guys prefer Win 7 or 10 for Ham radio apps.
> 
> I have a 6-year old Dell tower for my business and personal use and a
> 3-year old Dell laptop for my ham radio use.  Both of them run Win 7 Pro
> 64 bit.
> 
> I tried "upgrading" the laptop to Win 10.  Too much effort on defusing
> all of the nasty Microsoft "call home" stuff and auto-updating (I prefer
> to see and review each and every "patch" before letting it run).  Even
> with ClassicShell (which I use on all of my computers) I could not get
> Win 10 to look and behave the way I wanted.  I had to re-install Win 7
> on the laptop because it was beyond the 30-day "easy rollback" period
> and fortunately I had the "reinstall media" from Dell.
> 
> Bottom line - I am sticking to Win 7 as long as I have those computers
> and when either needs replacing I will order new ones with Win 7
> installed (not-so-secret that one can still do it if one is a good
> customer of the supplier).
> 
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Unplugging the radio to protect it

[Eric Ross]

On my computer equipment, including routers/switches, I have become a
very strong advocate of putting a full UPS between the wall and the
device.   When I say full UPS I mean one that is always sourcing the
device from the battery and not directly being fed from the primary
source.  The drawback of this is that they use a step-wise approximation
of AC on the output.   I haven't tried it directly with my K3 to see
what noise gets through, but my computer, which is right next to it  is
not emitting anything worth noting.  This way both power and network are
relatively protected coming into my computers.  I don't have any phone
lines connected to the computers either.  All my voice via the computer
is through the network.  The only route into the K3 is then the primary
power supply and the antenna.  I have also plan to put a battery between
the power supply and the radio just for backup power needs as well which
will then narrow it down to the antenna as the primary energy source.

Eric
kb7td


On Thu, Oct 8, 2015, at 12:34 PM, Eric Ross wrote:
> On my computer equipment, including routers/switches, I have become a
> very strong advocate of putting a full UPS between the wall and the
> device. 
> When I say full UPS I mean one that is always sourcing the device from
> the battery and not directly being fed from the primary source.  The
> drawback
> of this is that they use a step-wise approximation of AC on the output. 
> I haven't tried it directly with my K3 to see what noise gets
> through, but my computer, which is right next to it  is not emitting
> anything worth noting.  This way both power and network are relatively
> protected coming into my computers.  I don't have any phone lines
> connected to the computers either.  All my voice via the computer is
> through the network.  The only route into the K3 is then the primary
> power supply
> and the antenna.  I have also plan to put a battery between the power
> supply and
> the radio just for backup power needs as well which will then narrow it
> down to the antenna as the primary energy source.
> 
> Eric
> kb7td
> 
> On Thu, Oct 8, 2015, at 12:02 PM, Pierfrancesco Caci wrote:
> > >>>>> "Elecraft" == Elecraft K3 <k...@hollywoodtitle.com> writes:
> > 
> > 
> > Elecraft> Hmm, this thread has got me wondering if a fiber optics
> > Elecraft> telecom/tv/internet link provides some degree of
> > Elecraft> protection against distant lightning strikes. 
> > Elecraft> Seems like it should.
> > 
> > Yes, but the problem is your internal wiring. Even if you invest in a
> > switch with optical ports (they come cheap on the used market), and you
> > put an optical port in your main desktop PC, there are a lot of devices
> > that only have copper. What killed my access point was a ligthning strike
> > at
> > some distance coupling to a ~4 m long ethernet cable connecting the AP
> > to the switch.
> > 
> > Incidentally, fiber would help get rid of those nice carriers polluting
> > 12 and 10 m. 
> > 
> > Pf
> > 
> > -- 
> > Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
> > __
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> > Message delivered to kb...@evross.com
> 
> 
> -- 
>   Eric Ross


-- 
Eric
kb7td
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[Elecraft] REMOVE ME FROM YOUR EMAIL LIST!!!

[Rick Ross]

In Yahoo groups have set Mail Subscription to NO EMAILS and even UnSubscribed 
to KX3 Yahoo Group but continue to get EMails.

Rick Ross
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[Elecraft] K3 and Microham keyer II

[Ross Biggar]

Thanks for the information about setting up the Keyer, I would never have found 
it as my unit came direct from the manufacturer.
I have 2 further questions:
(a) I have a sub rcvr in my K3 so  I assume the plug marked sub RX goes to the 
Sub Rx socket on the keyer?
(b) What does the the plug marked inhibit go to on the K3?  

Thanks 
Ross
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] K 3 and Microham keyer II

[Ross Biggar]

I have just received a Microham keyer II which I am keen to use with my K3.
It would really help if someone who has a Microham keyer II working with their 
K3 
would please send me details of how they did it, as the manual appears to be 
very general
and not just oriented towards the K3.

Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

[Ross Primrose]

Surely there must be someone in your local club who does SMD stuff

73, Ross N4RP

On 7/7/2015 4:38 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks Jim for help.  I tried the wax but my hands are not steady enough and 
eyes not good enough, could not get the small caps in.
Anyone know if this is an all or nothing mod, can I cut out the L1 and L2 and 
add the big cap without adding the small caps or must it all be done?
I guess I will ask Elecraft about sending the board to them for the small caps 
install or try to find someone local here in MD who can do it.  thanks 73
Emory  WM3M

From: Jim Miller
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 3:05 PM
To: ejk...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions

also don't try to keep you hands in position without support. always support 
your hands by your forearms on the edge of the worksurface or better yet with 
your wrists on something like bean bags closer to the work. stability rulz!

73

jim ab3cv

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Jim Miller j...@jtmiller.com wrote:

   put a small bump of solder on one end of the existing cap. pick up the new 
cap with a toothpick that has been coated with a bit of beeswax from the sewing 
store.

   by just touching the toothpick to the top of the new cap it should adhere 
and allow you to gently place it on the existing device. heat the end with the 
solder blob to tack the new cap in place. solder the other end. reheat the 
first end briefly if necessary to make a nice joint.

   73

   jim ab3cv

   On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 2:56 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might 
be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that I 
can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the 
existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every small 
tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army knife, no 
luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be appreciated.  Thank 
you  73
 Emory  WM3M
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FD report in high RF (K3 vs Flex 6xxx)

[Ross Primrose]

On 7/1/2015 12:06 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
Yes, ARRL Labs tests are damning, though you would never realize it if 
you only read the text. When is ARRL going to assign technically 
competent authors to these reviews?




Right after they stop taking advertising revenue from the reviewees (is 
that even a word ;) )


73, Ross N4RP

--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3A and KBPF3B

[Ross Primrose]

On 6/25/2015 7:28 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
I believe Wayne stated the caps on the main board that require 
replacement are 0403 sized sm chips.




No.  On the main RF board (and the sub RX board if necessary) it's 
merely adding a through-hole cap.  If you have the KBPF3 (no A) then you 
need to do the SM work.  As Wayne stated earlier in the thread, you will 
be able to send your KBPF3(s) to Elecraft and have them do the work.  
AFAIK there is no KBPF3B ;)  If you've got/buy KBPF3A(s) then the mod is 
already done to them.


If I'm not mistaken, Mouser part # 647-RL81C221MDN1KX should be 
appropriate for use on the main RF board/sub RX.


73, Ross N4RP

--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Need local help

[Ross Primrose]

Just make sure you get one that can handle line level inputs, or you'll 
have to build an attenuator


73, Ross N4RP

On 6/9/2015 5:45 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


In addition to the sound cards recommended in the K9YC document,
these have been reported to be solid performing cards:
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829128010 ($36)
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829126101 ($18)
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829126101 ($40)

That list is not exhaustive - it does not include many of the $100
cards being recommended for SDR use or many of the $10 dongles that
work exceedingly well for simple audio I/O purposes.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-06-09 5:16 PM, David Ahrendts wrote:
Gentlemen, suggest some alternatives to the SignalLink USB for 
digital. Would like to research.


David A., KC0XT


On Jun 9, 2015, at 2:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:



I think there is one point that is overlooked in a lot of these
discussions. It really doesn't take much of a sound card to do
digital signal processing on 3 KHz or less audio streram.


There are a significant number of reports concerning the issues with
Signalink on-line if one bothers to look.  In general they relate to
improper filtering of the USB +5V power, lack of a regulator for the
V/2 reference to the sound codec (analog to digital converter), lack
of proper bypassing of noise from the various chips, requirement that
the digital to analog converter be run at too high a level in order
for the VOX to trigger reliably, etc.

In general, this means Signalink loses 15 dB or more of signal to
noise ratio (which is a big deal with modes like JT65 and JT9 on HF)
on the receive side and is much more dirty (often with multiple
audio signals) on transmit.

You're correct that it does not take much of a sound card to decode
some signals.  However, the Signalink sound card contains most of
the same components as the generic USB sound products that perform
much better - yet Signalink costs two to three times as much.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-06-09 3:59 PM, Barry LaZar wrote:

Joe,
 You bring an interesting point of view. I've been using a 
SignaLink

USB for at least 3-4 years. I haven't had an issue with it except not
enough time to play. And, I can't blame the manufacturer for that.

 I think there is one point that is overlooked in a lot of these
discussions. It really doesn't take much of a sound card to do digital
signal processing on 3 KHz or less audio streram. However, I would 
never

use a card in my laptop or my I/F for some of the heavier lifting here
in my shack where I need 96KHz sample rates or better with 24 bit
digitizing. But for just hook it up, set the levels and go, an 
interface
with a built in sound card is not a bad way to go. In many cases, 
it is

just easier to do and it allows for more flexibility.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

On 6/9/2015 3:11 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 2015-06-09 12:02 PM, Bob N3MNT wrote:

OP said computer did not have an audio input.


He's still better off with an external USB sound card of reasonable
quality and a pair of audio cables than using the Tigertronix product
of dubious quality and well documented poor design.  A simple USB 
sound
card of reasonable quality will cost 1/3 to 1/2 as much as the 
inferior

amateur product.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV
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David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com






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--
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3/K3S Beta Firmware, rev. 5.26: Support for K3S and upgraded modules

[Ross Primrose]

The K3S FAQ indicates that the KXV3B, KAT3A  KBPF3A are available now.  
I can't confirm or deny the accuracy of that.  But, I believe you'd need 
the new beta firmware for any of those.


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/20/2015 2:00 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

That's my interpretation, Ross. Just asking Wayne for confirmation.

Hmmm .. but I wonder if anyone has been able to add such items to 
their K3 as yet? They were announced a week ago, and my impression is 
that they may be in short supply for K3 usage for a while.


Phil W7OX

On 5/20/15 10:29 AM, Ross Primrose wrote:
The new firmware would be required for a K3 IF you add any of the 
newly upgraded K3S pieces to your K3, such as the new KIO3, KXV3B or 
KAT3A.


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/20/2015 10:32 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Wayne,

It's unclear what impact, if any, this firmware will have on the K3. 
All the specifics listed below appear to be K3S related.


I usually load beta versions *only* if the test/change relates to 
some feature I really want. If no changes for K3, no reason for me 
to load it.


Is there any reason a K3 needs this version for improved 
performance, functionality, etc.?


73, Phil W7OX

On 5/19/15 5:29 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi all,

K3 beta firmware rev. 5.26 is now available on our K3 software 
page. This is the first combined K3/K3S firmware release. It can be 
loaded into either transceiver using K3 Utility.


Some firmware features and changes apply only to the K3S, or to the 
various updated internal modules, as described in the release notes 
below. (Further details will be provided in the K3S owner's manual 
and other documents as they are made available.) We appreciate any 
firmware testing you might do on a K3, with or without any upgraded 
modules.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

* * *

K3/K3S MCU rev. 5.26

* USB COMPUTER PORT FOR COMBINED CONTROL and DIGITAL AUDIO (K3S, 
KIO3B): If a KIO3B module is installed (standard with the K3S), the 
CONFIG:RS232 menu entry will have a USB setting. If this setting 
is used, then a single USB cable can be used between the K3S and a 
computer to provide remote control, digitized line-level audio 
in/out, and PTT/KEY (via equivalents to the RTS and DTR 
signals). All of these signals are usually recognized by computer 
applications that also support RS232. This eliminates the need for 
a sound card and associated analog line in/out cables, as well as 
any external converter units. Refer to the K3S owner's manual, pgs. 
18-20, for details.


* NEW P3 PANADAPTER CABLE SUPPORT (K3S, KIO3B): If a KIO3B module 
is installed, then the P3 Panadapter must be connected to the K3S 
at its RS232/P3 connector (RJ45). Two different special cables are 
available for this purpose, depending on whether a computer will be 
connected via USB or RS232 to the K3S and P3. Refer to the K3S 
owner's manual for details (pg. 18 and 19).


* LINE IN/OUT AUDIO USE WITH USB PORT (K3S, KIO3B): If a plug is 
inserted into the LINE IN jack on the K3S, this audio signal will 
override the digitized audio line-in data that is present in the 
USB cable. LINE OUT on the K3S, however, is always available even 
if the USB cable is being used for line-out.


* PREAMP 2 and CONFIG:PREAMP2 MENU ENTRY (KXV3B): This menu entry 
is only applicable if a KXV3B module is installed (supplied with 
the K3S). It also only applies if the current band is 12, 10, or 6 
meters. If PREAMP2 is set to ON, then the PRE switch rotates 
through settings of OFF, PRE 1, and PRE 2 on the applicable band. 
PRE 2  turns on the low-noise preamp on the KXV3B module (+20 dB, 
with a typical NF of -144 dBm on 12/10/6 meters). When PRE 2 is 
selected, the PRE icon will flash slowly. Note: Do not use an 
external preamplifier (such as an Elecraft PR6 or PR6-10) when 
using the built-in low-noise preamp (PRE 2). This would result in 
excessive gain. .


* MULTIPLE ATTENUATOR SETTINGS and MAIN:ATTEN MENU ENTRY (K3S RF 
BOARD): On a K3S, the MAIN:ATTEN menu entry is used to select the 
per-band attenuation level for the ATTN switch (5/10/15 dB). A 
shortcut method of accessing this menu entry is to hold the ATTN 
switch for about 3 seconds. (On a K3, the parameter is fixed at 10 
dB.)


* LOW-LOSS ATU BYPASS SETTING (KAT3A): The upgraded internal ATU 
option, the KAT3A, includes a very low-loss bypass path via an 
additional relay. The bypass relay is engaged when the ATU switch 
is used to turn the ATU icon OFF. This setting can be used with 
closely matched antennas. (Bypass mode on the earlier model KAT3 
ATU uses a minimum-L/minimum-C network setting rather than a relay, 
result in a small dissipation loss that varies with frequency.)


* 100-500 KHZ SENSITIVITY IMPROVEMENT (KBPF3A): The KBPF3A is an 
upgrade from the KBPF3. The lowest-frequency filter in the KBPF3A 
has a cutoff at 100 kHz rather than 500 kHz. This improves typical 
sensitivity at 137 kHz (2200 meters) to about -120 dBm, and at 472 
kHz (600 meters), about -130 dBm.


* UPDATED PA (PREAMP) REMOTE-CONTROL

Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: WA6HHQ FDIM Talk Live Stream today 8:55 AM EDT

[Ross Primrose]

Live at: http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3S%20Data%20Sheet%20rev%20A1.pdf 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3S-FAQ%20rev%20C5%20customer.pdf

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/14/2015 9:16 AM, Fabio IZ4AFW / NZ1W wrote:

Probably they're uploading PDFs just now :)

Fabio
 IZ4AFW

2015-05-14 15:10 GMT+02:00 Ross Primrose n...@n4rp.com 
mailto:n...@n4rp.com:


At http://www.elecraft.com/news.htm there are now links to a K3S
datasheet  FAQ, but they give a 404 error at this point...

73, Ross N4RP


On 5/14/2015 9:05 AM, Jim Miller wrote:

Not hitting the screen fully and no audio here.

jim ab3cv

On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 9:01 AM, W4CCS w4...@w4ccs.com
mailto:w4...@w4ccs.com wrote:

Anyone getting any audio..??

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Eric
Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 8:43 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: WA6HHQ FDIM Talk Live Stream
today 8:55 AM EDT


From: Eric Swartz n91...@cruzio.com
mailto:n91...@cruzio.com
Date: May 14, 2015 at 8:41:34 AM EDT
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: WA6HHQ FDIM Talk Live Stream today 8:55 AM EDT

I will be starting my DAYTON talk today in about 20
min - About 8:55 - 9

AM EDT.

For the live video stream see:
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/g4gxl-test

Fun times!

73,
Eric
elecraft.com http://elecraft.com
_..._

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the minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] powermeter

[Ross Biggar]

This is probably a very naive question, but where should a powermeter that 
measures Forward and reflected power
be positioned?
Should it be between the Amplifier and the Tuner, which could safeguard the 
amplifier if there was a high SWR,
or after the tuner, (ie, between the tuner and the antenna)?

Thanks
Ross ZL1WN
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Re: [Elecraft] Dramatic improvement in K3 RX sensitivity below 500 kHz -- looking for testers

[Ross Primrose]

So, after this testing is completed, will production KBPF3s be shipped 
with the modifications?


73, Ross N4RP

On 4/29/2015 9:23 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi all,

In honor of the FCC's proposed 2200 meter allocation (137 kHz), we decided to 
see if we could improve the K3's receive sensitivity in the 100-500 kHz range. This 
extended coverage is made possible by the new synth (KSYN3A).

After a lot of digging, we discovered the cause of the wide-band low-frequency 
noise. We also found a way to shift the passband of the KBPF3 lower.

With a couple of simple modifications, the MDS (minimum discernible signal) can 
be improved by about 25 dB at the low end (100 kHz). Here are some test results 
(preamp off, 400-Hz bandwidth):

   137 kHz  -114 dBm   FCC's proposed 2200 meter band
   160 kHz  -117 dBm   low end of the Low-Fer band
   250 kHz  -126 dBm   test frequency in the long-wave beacon band
   472 kHz  -133 dBm   630 meter experimental band

This represents an improvement throughout the range, but especially at the low 
end. I believe -114 dBm MDS should suffice at 137 kHz, given the high band 
noise in this range.

Another indication of how well the mods work: With no antenna connoted, the 
K3's S-meter now just barely flickers (S1) at 100 kHz. Without the mods, the 
no-antenna S-meter reading could be as high as S7 due to the noise source we've 
now identified (a voltage regulator). (By the way, this regulator noise had no 
impact on frequencies about about 500 kHz.)

Here's a summary of the changes required:

   RF board:  Add one leaded capacitor
   KRX3 (if applicable):  Add one leaded capacitor
   KBPF3: Remove two inductors; parallel three new capacitors

If you're interested in this low frequency range, and you'd like to try the 
mods, please email me directly.

Note: To tune this range with the K3, you'll need the new synth (KSYN3A), a 
KBPF3 module (on the main and/or sub receiver), and a KXV3 module. A KXV3 is 
required because the antenna for the 100-500 kHz range should be connected to 
RX ANT IN or XVTR IN. The ANT1/ANT2 path goes through the T/R switch, which has 
a high-pass filter to protect the K3's fast PIN-diode T/R circuitry.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A Synthesizer problem?

[Ross Primrose]

It sounds like you've only put one new board in a 2RX K3.  I don't 
believe that's a supported configuration...


73, Ross N4RP

On 4/6/2015 7:01 PM, Roger D Johnson wrote:
My new boards arrived today. I popped one into the K3 for some 
testing. I was especially interested
in the low frequency performance as I like to DX the LF broadcasts 
from 153 to 279 kHz. What I found
was that below 400 kHz, the noise level rises and at 100 kHz it's 
almost 20 over 9 on the S meter!
I calibrated my NaP3 spectrum analyzer program and took some 
measurements of the noise level.


500 kHz  -127 dbm
400 -127
300 -124
200 -113
100 -93

That's a 34 db increase in noise level!! Is this the way the new 
boards are supposed to work?
I expected a decrease in sensitivity below 500 kHz but not this. Any 
ideas?


73, Roger

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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Question K3 ALC w/SPE Expert 1.3K-FA amp

[Ross Primrose]

On 4/3/2015 1:30 AM, Igor Sokolov wrote:

Joe,
As I was told, they ship it with the pad at the input to meet FCC 
requirement of  max 15db gain. But the pad can be easily bypassed. 
Just wonder, what is the reason for such a requirement?


11m.

73, Ross N4RP

--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: SDR Software Solution!

[Ross Primrose]

You'll have better luck at va2fsq.com

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/30/2015 7:00 PM, hsherriff wrote:

John
Check out Win4K3 by Tom. Find it at va2fsg.com

Harlan
NC3C


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

div Original message /divdivFrom: John Reilly reill...@comcast.net /divdivDate:03/30/2015  6:19 PM  
(GMT-05:00) /divdivTo: elecraft@mailman.qth.net /divdivCc:  /divdivSubject: [Elecraft] KX3: SDR Software Solution! 
/divdiv
/divI have been trying to find a good computer SDR software solution to use
with my KX3.

First, I tried LPB2 with NaP3. NaP3 had an incredible amount of images,
and this software combination with the KX3 caused random loss of CW
elements (Like lose a dit in 'r'). Larry Phipps said this didn't
surprise him since he had never tested LPB2 with the KX3.

Second, I tried the TRX version of LP-Bridge with TRX-Pan. TRX-Pan works
great; however, I got slow, infrequent frequency updates in N1MM.

Does anyone have a solid SDR and virtual serial port software solution
for the KX3 (short of a PX3!)?

Thanks!
- 73, John, N0TA
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - MCU/FPF/DSP1 Firmware Update Failure

[Ross Primrose]

Check the owner's manual section on forcing a firmware download

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/29/2015 9:22 AM, K M Dailey wrote:

I just tried to update my K3/P3 with the latest firmware and the process has 
failed, leaving me with a pretty much dead K3 - MCU, FPF and DSP1 all showing 
as nothing installed, and the K3 Utility is reporting no comms with the K3.  
The K3 itself powers on, but the display is completely blank.

I’m running on Mac OS X 10.10 with the latest K3 Utility.

Any ideas how I can get my radio working again? (:-(

Thanks,

Ken, G0RVH



--
Ken Dailey

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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
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Re: [Elecraft] Don't have a 50W dummy load

[Ross Primrose]

Surely there's a local ham you can borrow one from

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/24/2015 3:25 PM, Tony Estep wrote:

Well, now I downloaded the new firmware, only to discover that I have to do
the 50W calibration. I have a 5W dummy load, but no 50W. The 5W calibration
went okay. So do I have to get a 50W dummy load before I can use the K3
again? Or should I back down to the previous firmware? Or what?

KT0NY, the human dummy
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] mIC gAIN GOES TO ZERO

[Ross Primrose]

N1MM  or N1MM+?  I'm not seeing that with my K3 with N1MM+.

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/20/2015 8:58 PM, Jerry wrote:

Evening all,

I was setting up N1MM with the K3 for the Virginia QSO party tomorrow when I
noticed the following strange behavior.

Whenever I press any of the FKeys on N1mm (with the exception of F4 and
F12), the mic gain on the K3 gets set to 1. I cannot remember this was
always this way or something has changed in either N1MM or the newer K3
configuration files.

So a couple of questions before I jump over to N1MM with a bug report; has
anyone else experience this problem? Any suggestions to check on the K3?

Best regards,

Jerry, W1IE (who is patiently awaiting the new Syth boards)






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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/mIC-gAIN-GOES-TO-ZERO-tp7600488.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] 2nd RX Vs. P3

[Ross Primrose]

The decision was easy for me: My shack desk is too small to add a P3, 
and the K3RX takes no space


73, Ross N4RP

--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] WTB: KAF2

[Ross Primrose]

Built or un-built, doesn't matter.

Hopefully, someone has one that's excess to their needs after installing 
a KDSP2.


Contact me off-list.

73, Ross N4RP

--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 80M Question

[Ross Primrose]

Working portable from MT I worked a KL and a bunch of east coast 
stations one evening on 80m SSB with 5W into a horizontal end-fed 
half-wave at about 20'.  I'm sure it wasn't armchair copy for any of 
them, but it's definitely doable. From my home QTH in VA, I've completed 
WAS on 80m SSB with 5W, but that was with a combination of a 160m 
horizontal loop at 35' and a full-sized 80m wire vertical over 56 75' 
radials.  YMMV ;)


73, Ross N4RP

On 3/16/2015 1:03 PM, J wrote:

I'm considering replacing the 30M module in my KX-1 with a 30/80M module,
and had a few questions first:

  


What chances of contacts with 4 watts on 80M. using a typical end-fed
antenna suspended from a tree or hotel balcony?  (Seems like higher bands
are easier at QRP)

  


My KX-1 has the KXAT-1 ATU.  Will the KXAT-1 also attempt a match on 80M?

  


Has anyone had success with ONE antenna and counterpoise length that will
load properly on 80/40/30/20 using the KX-1/KXAT-1?  (I'm thinking a length
which avoids High-Z on these bands)

  


73, Jay

W6CJ

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  


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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 v SubRX

[Eric Ross]

I am in full agreement.  I feel blind without my P3.  At a glance I can
tell if the band is active or not.  For example, last weekend with the
DX contest and the wide open 20m, the scope was almost solid in certain
spectrums.

I find that I use the subRX if I am getting bored on the 75m net and
want someone else to listen to.  I also find it useful for tuning in the
+5 ahead of time before leaving the net with someone and making sure
that it is available.  I am not set up with a separate Rx antenna so I
can't comment on how useful diversity Rx is.

Bottom line, if I have to choose only one, I would choose the P3.

Eric, WB7SDE


On Mon, Mar 9, 2015, at 01:00 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
 Don ‹
 
 I agree with Dave.  I have both - the SubRX from the beginning and the P3
 a year or so later.  I have become addicted to the P3; but can¹t remember
 using the SubRX for anything other than chasing DX in pileups.  Even in
 contests, where operating a significant split is usually a no-no, the XIT
 alone has been enough while the subRX imposes a small but noticeable hit
 on weak-signal sensitivity.  But I am strictly CW - there may be
 advantages in other modes.
 
 Ted, KN1CBR
 
 
 Message: 8
 Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2015 09:50:49 -0700
 From: David Cole d...@nk7z.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] My K3 needs pimping
 Message-ID: 1425919849.15814.234.camel@nostromo.NK7Z
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
 
 Panadaptor, you will probably get more use from it than the sub rx.  I
 do...  I had occasion to have it mine off for a bit, and it is crippling
 to no longer have one...  I use it so much more than a sub RX.
 -- 
 Thanks and 73's,
 For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
 www.nk7z.net
 for MixW support see;
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
 for Dopplergram information see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
 for MM-SSTV see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
 
 
 On Mon, 2015-03-09 at 16:24 +, Don Putnick via Elecraft wrote:
  Okay, folks. Please advise me on a worthy cause - my K3. I'm a casual
 DXer and I don't contest. My main modes are SSB and soundcard digital.
 I'm fully stocked with roofing filters, and I have the KPA500 and
 KAT500. Should my next purchase be a subreceiver or a panadapter, and
 why? 73 Don NA6Z K3 #5495
  '
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-- 
  Eric Ross
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Re: [Elecraft] Contemplating Purchase of K3

[Ross Primrose]

Or, get the 500Hz 8-pole from Inrad...

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/7/2015 12:29 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

If you operate any CW or RTTY you will want the 400 Hz filter. IMO,
that's the best all around filter - particularly if you have any idea
of adding the KRX3 in the future since you will not need to try to
match five-pole filter center frequencies after the fact.



--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K-1 4-band Availability/Status?

[Ross Primrose]

Looking at the parts list, I can't imagine which part is no longer 
available


73, Ross N4RP

On 3/6/2015 4:37 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Confirm. Something related to a vital part(s?) no longer being available.

73, Phil W7OX


On 3/6/15 1:25 PM, J wrote:
I was interested in building a K-1 4-band, but learned the 4-band 
boards are

unavailable.  Can someone confirm or deny?


Also, there was a VFO drift issue in the first K-1's I'd read about.  
I was

curious if this issue was resolved or still exists.


Thanks,

Jay

W6CJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - What settings to use for RX and TX Audio

[Ross Primrose]

TX audio you're pretty much going to have to figure out on-air with 
someone who's got great copy on you.  What works for you is highly 
dependent on your voice, mic etc. and will be different than what works 
for me or anyone else


73, Ross N4RP

On 2/26/2015 3:53 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I also would like the settings for TX audio, particularly for 2 groups of 
settings one for Ragchew and one for punch.
Thank you




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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A and below 490 KHz?

[Ross Primrose]

On 2/18/2015 1:17 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
Probably not. It allows quite useful sensitivity down to 250 kHz, and 
even some utility at 100 kHz. But most operators are interested in the 
600-meter band (472-479 kHz). Wayne N6KR


At the rate they're going, my grand kids will probably be retired before 
the FCC grants US hams access to that band :(


73, Ross N4RP

--
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Re: [Elecraft] VFO problem

[Ross Primrose]

My grandfather (Ex K4GF, SK) was a TV repairman during the tube TV era.  
The most common fault requiring a house call was the housewife not 
plugging the TV back in after she unplugged it to vacuum


73, Ross N4RP

On 2/14/2015 12:29 PM, David Christ wrote:

This was a standard technique used by TV repairmen back in the days of tube 
consoles and house calls.  For intermittent problems one waited until the owner 
left the room then lifted up one side about 6 inches and let it drop.  Usually 
either fixed the problem or caused a hard fault that could be troubleshot.  Now 
the owner just buys a new TV.

David K0LUM


On Feb 14, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Bill Turner dez...@outlook.com wrote:


I think you are on to something, Matt.  On a hunch, I performed a
percussive reset as NASA calls it. I lifted the front on the K3
about an inch and dropped it. The problem went away for now. When it
comes back, I will do as you suggest.

Many thanks to all who replied.

Bill W6WRT


 ORIGINAL MESSAGE (may be snipped)

On Sat, 14 Feb 2015 08:27:01 -0800, you wrote:


I would suggest it's worth the time to swap the VFO A and VFO B
encoder boards.  It could be the encoder itself or its contacts to the
front panel board, either of them.

If you take this course, you might want to check the encoder board
contacts on each of them, and also take a look at the contacts on the
front panel board.  There may be some corrosion, dust, etc. on the
contacts.

73,
matt
W6NIA

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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Little brown truck arrived w/ my K3!

[Eric Ross]

I also use and like the SignaLink.  

Here is a preview of your weekend.  Have fun with the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/

Eric
wb7sdeOn Dec 18, 2014 6:19 PM, Ken wa8...@gmail.com wrote:


  On Dec 18, 2014, at 8:56 PM, Chris Hallinan challi...@gmail.com wrote:
  
  From some reading, I've heard that an external interface isn't required for
  the digital modes?  Not sure about that.  Wonder what others are using for
  external interface for digital modes?  I had a SignalLink USB at one point
  and it worked quite well.

 Chris,

 One can, at least in theory, get by with feeding the audio directly between 
 the K3 and the computer.  However, from what I’ve read, adjustment is very 
 sensistive and it is more susceptible to hum , RF pickup, etc.  And you have 
 to deal with how your computer handles the audio (mixers, audio enhancement, 
 etc.)    The SignaLink is a good, simple, reliable interface, well worth it 
 IMO.

 Have fun and good luck with your construction.

 Ken WA8JXM

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Re: [Elecraft] HI Current

[Eric Ross]

I see the same thing, but only on 10m.  I just assumed (possibly erroneously) 
the power indication was not accurate and used the indicated 100w.  I don't 
have an external wattmeter to validate.  My antenna is tuned for 20m so tuning 
it is not that hard on 10m.

Eric
wb7sde

On December 14, 2014 9:23:15 PM PST, Matt VK2RQ matt.vk...@gmail.com wrote:
Maybe there is not enough voltage at the power input to the radio —
possibly due to high resistance at your power connections or in your
fuse holders? 

73, Matt VK2RQ


 On 15 Dec 2014, at 8:18 am, Bruce Chadbourne
bruce.chadbou...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 To the list:
 
 I occasionally get the Hi Current warning on my K3. I notice it cuts
my
 power back about 10% from 100w.  My initial assumption is that my SWR
is
 too high - but the SWR meter is easily less than 2.0  I run the ATU
which
 confirms SWR about 1.2 or so.
 So what am I missing - something bad in my transmission line?
 
 -- 
 Bruce KE1CY
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Re: [Elecraft] Is the KX3 a good choice for a new General?

[Eric Ross]

I think it's almost better to get a much cheaper older rig first.  In my latest 
run as a ham I started with an old Kenwood TS140 for about $350.   It worked 
fine for what it could do.  It couldn't break apart pileups but it allowed me 
to make many QSOs.  However, when I got my K3--wow!  I don't think I could 
really appreciate the K3 unless I had first used a basic rig first.  I still 
get a thrill when I narrow the bandpass down to 50hz.

I still have the TS140 which is perfect for using in high risk environments 
and/or lending to the next new ham.

Eric
WB7SDE

On December 5, 2014 11:29:13 PM PST, Gary Gregory vk1zzg...@gmail.com wrote:
Don

You should add that the K3 has been around for quite awhile now so it
has
proven not just its performance but adoption by many knowledgeable hams
around the world and has also proven very reliable operating in less
than
ideal conditionsask me how i know this:-)

No better advertisement than customer satisfaction i supposegrin
Gary
Vk1ZZ
K3, KX3, KPA500-FT, KAT500-FT,P3.
On 06/12/2014 3:48 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Yes, simple is better, but if that new ham is interested in having a
 top-notch station, he will be well advised to consider Elecraft gear.
 If
 for no other reason than the Elecraft gear is upgradable -- one does
not
 have to buy the whole ball of wax at the initial purchase time, it
can be
 upgrades as operating needs arise.

 My typical response to new hams is that they do not yet know what
they
 will want for whatever type of operation they might eventually become
 interested in, so yes, they should get some operating experience
under
 their belts before deciding on which rig they would want for their
 station.  That can be simply a borrowed transceiver to get that new
ham on
 the air.

 However, if the new ham does not have  locals who will loan him
 transceivers to get on the air, the KX3 offers a great receiver,
and a
 limited number of options, which I believe will serve the novice
operator
 well for a very long time.  The only question is do you want higher
than
 15 watts power?  If yes, then the KXPA100 is available and if you do
not
 have resonant antennas, the KXAT100 is a good wide range auto tuner.

 The K3 is also a good choice for beginning hams.  Many get hung up on
what
 filters to purchase with the K3, but my recommendation to the new ham
is to
 purchase no optional filters - the DSP provides gppd filtering except
in
 crowded band conditions such a contests and extreme DXing.  As
operating
 experience is gained, that new ham who has now been seasoned may want
 additional filters, and they are easily added to the K3.  Likewise
the
 SubRX may be useful in some operating scenarios, but the new ham
would not
 know the advantages provided by the SubRX until he gets his feet
wet.
 The price of a basic K3 or a basic KX3 is within the realm of other
high
 end transceivers on the market (and in fact may be priced less than
many
 other comparable transceivers).

 Bottom line, I would not hesitate to recommend a basic K3 or KX3 to
any
 new ham.  He will have a great receiver, and the options offered by
 Elecraft can allow that new ham to customize his station by adding
options
 as his needs and operating experiences dictate.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 12/5/2014 10:55 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

 I really have to agree.  Simple is better to start with.  I don't
 consider the KX3 to be simple by any means.  Having some immediate
success
 is the best way to keep a new ham interested.  I keep several
loaners
 around that aren't worth very much on the used market but serve very
well
 as starter rigs.  At least twice those loaners have gone to young
men with
 an interest that eventually led to getting licensed. (Both now
Extras).

 On the other hand, if a new ham has an accessible Elmer and has an
 opportunity for a short course in KX3 operating AND happens to be
able to
 erect a decent antenna, it might indeed be a fine choice.

 Like a lot of things in life - it all depends...

 73, Doug -- K0DXV

 On Thu, 04 Dec 2014 09:27:06 -0700, Don Butler n...@comcast.net
wrote:

  There seems to be unanimous agreement here, but I beg to differ. 
In my
 opinion, the KX3 is not ideal for a typical beginning general class
 operator.   I own a KX3 myself, and I think it's wonderful, and I
doubt
 that
 I will ever part with it.  It shines when it comes to portable
operation
 ..
 That's why I bought it, that's what I use it for, and it's by far
the
 best
 portable rig I've ever owned.  I also have two K3s in my shack, and
I use
 them when I'm operating there, which is the vast majority of the
time.
  But
 let's face it, most beginning hams are forced to deal with budget
limits,
 and a new KX3 is expensive.  The last time I checked, the cost of a
 loaded
 KX3 with an outboard KXPA100 setup for HF only is well over $2300
plus
 tax
 and shipping, and that's without a power supply.

 We know that the antenna system is the most 

Re: [Elecraft] Android App for CW

[Eric Ross]

I generated some nice sounding cw mp3's for my ringtone using this site:

http://www.morseresource.com/morse/makemorse.php

Eric,

WB7SDE

On Thu, Dec 4, 2014, at 12:56 PM, Eric Ross wrote:
 I generated some nice sounding cw mp3's for my ringtone using this site:
 
 http://www.morseresource.com/morse/makemorse.php
 
 Eric,
 
 WB7SDE
 
 
 On Thu, Dec 4, 2014, at 12:16 PM, Mark via Elecraft wrote:
  I tried several of these apps, but none of them really did what I wanted.
   I finally recorded a separate ringtone for each person I wanted by using
  the Samsung Voice Recorder on my Galaxy S5.  I  used the sidetone from my
  KX3 and a CW Touch Keyer to eliminate “paddle clatter”.  I suppose you
  could hook the KX3 audio directly into the S5 mic input, but I did it the
  easy way and just set the phone next to the radio, hit record, and
  started sending.
  
  
  Using this technique, I can keep the ringtone short (i.e. AMY, KELLY,
  etc.).  I find that it is much less confusing when standing in the
  supermarket checkout line.  It isn't automatic, though, and you must
  assign each recorded ringtone file to the caller name in your contacts
  list.
  
  
  Mark,
  
  KE6BB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Microphone Hum

[Eric Ross]

I also had a hum caused when my SIgnalink device was connected to the
computer but NOT powered on.

Eric - WB7SDE

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014, at 11:01 AM, Bill Breeden wrote:
 
 I noticed an AC hum in the monitor audio in my headphones while calling 
 with one of the W1AW portables.  While wondering if the hum was really 
 in my transmit audio, the W1AW Operator came back to me and reported the 
 hum.  I use a Heil Proset K2/K3 via the front panel microphone connector 
 through a Kenwood style (red band) Heil pigtail.  After completing the 
 QSO I switched to Test mode and I could still hear the hum when I 
 transmitted.  Thinking I had a poor connection, I disconnected and 
 reconnected both ends of the pigtail, but the hum persisted.  While 
 doing that I noticed there was no hum if I activated the push to talk 
 with microphone unplugged from the pigtail.  That had me baffled for a 
 few moments until I remembered that the Proset K2/K3 requires bias 
 voltage from the K3.  At that point I used the 2 button in the MIC 
 SEL menu to turn the bias off and on a few times and the hum was 
 disappeared.  I haven't researched the details of the bias switching 
 arrangement in the K3 but it appears that mine needed some exercise to 
 clear a bad connection.  I thought I would pass this on to the rest of 
 the group in case someone else encounters this issue.
 
 73,
 
 Bill - NA5DX
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Verticals

[Eric Ross]

Bill brings up a good point.  For some people the results are all that
count and 100 foot tower with multi-element beams and legal limit amps
is the only way to go.  Fortunately, that is only some people.  I listen
to friends who have been very successful with a long wire and a 10 watt
QRP rig (in one case a crystal tuner) and who have had many successful
DX QSO's.  This is exciting to me because it requires one to know every
part of the system from top to bottom in order to squeeze out the
maximum capabilities.  Sure, its not in the unlimited class, but the
same challenges and excitement are there.  The person you can hook up
their shop's metal roof and hold a conversations across the country
deserves my applause.  I also applaud those who did the careful planning
and care to create a elegant super station.  Ham radio is fun
precisely because it is so many things to so many people.  

In the past I used a Hustler 5BTV and recently a simple trap dipole and
they do different things.  Right now I really like my NVIS dipole
because I spend most of my time chatting with the locals and DX is not
that important to me.  I am sure that I will be experimenting with
something different in the future.

Eric, WB7SDE


On Thu, Sep 11, 2014, at 02:14 PM, William Levy wrote:
 I think some folks misconstrued my Vertical comments.
 They work. They load. They radiate.
 They worked for me in the circuit I wanted to complete.
 Doesn't matter what the other station has.
 
 The first time I was  5Z4PI it was 1973 and I had a Hallicrafters Safari
 rig.
 Beauty of that rig was built in 12/110 and 240 supplies.
 One VFO, long before the dreaded RIT was invented.
 Made a trap dipole. Printed 250 qsl cards.
 
 In those days I was running a 100 watts and a dipole.
 When the States opened up the guys I worked ran 4 el Hygain 204BA's and
 KWs.
 
 That isn't the important thing.
 
 Before the states were open I worked everyone else in the world with
 modest
 transceivers and antennas with my dipole and 100 watts. The only reason
 we
 have giant towers and amps today is because everyone else in this wealthy
 country does.
 
 But before the band is open to the states all the DX is very happy
 working
 the rest of the world with modest gear.
 
  The other night I heard a fellow in Pakistan tune and then call CQ on
  the
 frequency my KX3 was tuned to.
 KX3 ran 10 watts to a Log Periodic. He barely heard me, said I was in and
 out of the noise.
 When I powered the baby amp on he could hear me Q5.
 
 Back to my old R5. It worked as good as the trap dipole did 15 years
 earlier. Perfect for ragchewing and hamming up.
 
 The rest of the world is very happy playing a different game then us
 before
 the bands open up to the States!
 WE are nothing but a wall of noise.
 
 I am glad we have K3's that are bullet proof to adjacent channels and can
 tune down to 100 cycles.
 It's beautifully made stuff and I wouldn't leave home without one!
 
 73 all, Bill N2WL
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - S/N 2917 - FW v2 .19 - DSP 1.3.

[Eric Ross]

Yes, I have found this to be the pattern for me as well.  The only
component on my K3 that intermittently fails is the one between my ears.
 I am looking for a warranty replacement, but supplies seem to be
unavailable.

Eric, WB7SDE

On Mon, Sep 8, 2014, at 01:20 PM, Mark,  KE6BB via Elecraft wrote:
 Re:  I don't know how my face can be more RED-DER...
 
 Most of us have done something similar, Jim.  I thought one of the LCD
 segments on the s-meter had developed a case of always on disease,
 until Wayne (and a few others) suggested I return the RF gain to 0db. 
 That fixed the radio, but it took a while to return my face to its
 original color!
 
 Regards
 Mark
 KE6BB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting

[Eric Ross]

Just curious.  What does anyone recommend for a signal generator to use
for this kind of diagnostic process.  I am looking for something fairly
low cost as I hope I won't be doing this very often.

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 02:55 AM, Rick Stealey wrote:
 Guy, thanks for the tip.  I will give it a try.
 A relay in the kxv3 rev 2 failed, an Omron part.  It is now obsolete.
 Elecraft sells a new rev 3 version of the kxv3 for $88 as an upgrade. 
 You trade in your defective module. 
 
 The failure occurred during the night that we had electrical storms so I
 assumed some solid state part in the rx path had probably gotten zapped.
 But we could inject a weak signal after the kxv3 and hear it, but not
 before it.  Of course that sounds like a simple diagnosis, and it is when
 you are reading the final outcome, but not when your rig is spread out on
 the bench.
 
  From: k2av@gmail.com
  Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 16:06:24 -0400
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting
  To: rstea...@hotmail.com
  CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  
  On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 10:58 AM, Rick Stealey rstea...@hotmail.com wrote:
   Thanks to all who offered helpful suggestions.  They were all via email - 
   you notice there were no helpful postings on the reflector.  Anyway, it's 
   working again and I'm a happy camper.
  
  I note you did not post what the actual solution was. You are the only
  source for that information.
  
  Just a reminder that the Elecraft reflector is not an Elecraft
  technical support email address. While Elecraft employees may post
  here from time to time to answer email on the reflector, there is no
  guarantee that Elecraft employees or Elecraft owners will answer a
  particular question. For Elecraft help from Elecraft employees one
  should use supp...@elecraft.com or k3supp...@elecraft.com with issues.
  These emails are answered during normal business days and hours.
  
  Reflector readers are not under contract to Elecraft to answer posts,
  nor is there a requirement that someone who does answer a reflector
  post must do so on the reflector.
  
  Personally, I rarely offer help across this or any other reflector any
  more, because it is too hard to keep track of helping email threads. I
  set up a new folder with an intelligent name for a corresponder with
  filters to put new mail from him/her in that folder. Not putting that
  help conversation on the reflector also avoids trash talk (both on and
  off reflector) from a certain kind of reflector user which otherwise
  is a real and ugly disincentive. I will sometimes convert to telephone
  conversations if the writing becomes too complex. All that goes on
  without a clue on a reflector I was there.
  
  I would say that it's up to the person who asked for help to post the
  eventual solution on the reflector. This makes the answer compact and
  only relates the answer that actually worked. And it cuts down on
  noise when someone is later searching archives for a solution.
  
  Clearly those who answered you off-reflector saw the post on the
  reflector and so it would seem to me that the Elecraft reflector
  worked well. But email correspondence is no match for a technical
  buddy with test equipment working right there with you on the physical
  equipment. :)
  
  As to the schematics, using the current Adobe Reader to display the
  schematic PDF's, the search function will find all the occurrences of
  a wire label very quickly. I have found Elecraft schematics **very
  easy** to navigate and use with Adobe Reader. I decidedly prefer
  Elecraft schems to the microscopic lines in the paper schematic of my
  FT1000MP, and having to pencil trace a wire as it snakes around the
  page.
  
  To find the KXV3, bring up the June, 2010 version of the K3 schematic
  PDF with a current Adobe Reader. Hit CTRL-F. This will bring up a blue
  find window at the upper right. Type in kxv3 and hit enter. You
  can repeat the search to see every instance of the characters kxv3
  (case insensitive) anywhere in the PDF.
  
  Huge help in chasing stuff in PDF schematics.
  
  73, and glad you found the trouble.
  
  Guy K2AV
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio: from OK to superior

[Eric Ross]

If you are going to spend that much, you might as well get the Proset
K2.  Great listening, comfortable, and constantly great audio reports
from others.

http://www.elecraft.com/MD2/proset.htm

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 09:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
 If you are OK with open back headphones, the Grado SR-60 ($80) has been
 the best deal in audio for a long time.  You can turn headphones into a
 headset with the ModMic add-on boom mic ($50).
 
 http://www.modmic.com/
 
 wunder
 K6WRU
 CM87wj
 http://observer.wunderwood.org/
 
 On Jul 17, 2014, at 8:19 AM, Ignacy n...@arrl.net wrote:
 
  I use Yamaha CM500 with K3. It is wearing out so I started looking at
  alternatives. Yesterday I connected Bose OE ($100).  The sound quality
  changed from OK or a bit harsh to very smooth, like from Chevy to Cadillac. 
   
  A pleasure to listen to.
  
  I thought that headphones are headphones and their main differences are
  frequencies characteristics, sensitivity + fit. However, with OE the sound
  quality is greatly improved. Any idea why?
  
  Seems choosing $40 headsets with $3k radio is not be the best idea. 
  
  If only they had a headset
  
  Ignacy, NO9E
  
  
  
  --
  View this message in context: 
  http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Audio-from-OK-to-superior-tp7591291.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver troubleshooting

[Eric Ross]

The answer was obvious and I was dense. 

Thank you,
Eric, wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 17, 2014, at 10:29 AM, Nr4c wrote:
 How about the XG3?  
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ...nr4c. bill
 
 
  On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:43 AM, Eric Ross e...@evross.com wrote:
  
  Just curious.  What does anyone recommend for a signal generator to use
  for this kind of diagnostic process.  I am looking for something fairly
  low cost as I hope I won't be doing this very often.
  
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Re: [Elecraft] How reliable an internet connection is needed for a K3 remote to work well?

[Eric Ross]

Fortunately, this is one group I DON'T have to explain to about
overlapping frequencies.  See the picture--it will make it clear as day.
 There are fundamentally (in the US) only 3 frequencies that correspond
to channels 1,6, and 11.  In Europe, you also get a 4th frequency on
channel 14.

Channels 12-14 are only legal outside the USA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels


On Wed, Jul 16, 2014, at 02:40 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
 Keep in mind too that WiFi channels overlap quite a bit.  If the problem 
 is WiFi activity on channel 6, you'd have to go to 3 or 9 to be 
 completely clear.
 
 73 -- Lynn
 
 On 7/16/2014 1:51 PM, James Beitchman wrote:
  What I learned is that
  most WiFi equipment as-delivered is set for channel 6 as default and most
  users leave it there. I checked my router in the City and found it was on
  channel 6.  I changed my router to channel 8 and the dropped packet problem
  completely disappeared and CW is just fine.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 P3 SVGA - ?future firmware updates for K3/P3/SVGA?

[Eric Ross]

I have worked at a technology company for many years and there is always
a tension between coming out with the new and nifty product and
improving the old product.  You have to balance keeping your current
customers satisfied with breaking into new markets and acquiring new
customers.  Yes, us K3 owners can always want more.  But, looking at the
initial K3 and what it has today, the ability to keep getting
replacement parts, and the personal support we get on such an old
product, I have to give Elecraft congratulations on how well they do. 
If I had bought a competitor's product when the K3 came out, more than
likely, I would have whatever was delivered.  With the K3, not only were
improvements made over the years, I could upgrade and/or install those
improvements as they came out.  Someday, the K4 will come out and I know
I will have some envy.  But I am still very thrilled with the value that
has been delivered today and I continue to expect some incremental
improvements in the future however slow they are delivered.

Eric
wb7sde

On Thu, Jul 10, 2014, at 12:53 PM, XE3/K5ENS via Elecraft wrote:
 amen
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-SVGA-future-firmware-updates-for-K3-P3-SVGA-tp7591062p7591065.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 speaker amp chip bites the dust again

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

On 7/1/2014 4:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


more power, the 3.1W amplifier is going to die when asked to produce
more than 150 W of peak power.


In a properly engineered design, the amp may clip like crazy, but it 
should be able to survive such abuse indefinitely


73, Ross N4RP


73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-07-01 3:28 PM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:

I guess I've blown the speaker amp IC in my K3 again. This is the third
time this has happened, twice in one radio and once in another.

In this case, the radio had both the AF Output Mod Kit (pair of 470 ohm
resistors) and the E85056 Audio Protection Assembly Circuit Board
installed.

I was operating on Field Day, with headphones, as I usually do, when
some onlookers wanted to hear what was going on. I flipped
SPKRS+PHONES=YES, then along came a strong signal, and poof! no speaker
audio.

AGC SLP was zero, and AGC THR was 020. Front panel AGC was FAST.

This failure is really getting old, especially at $120 a pop to get it
fixed.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA














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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] PR6-10 Poser, Cont'd

[Eric Ross]

I just hooked mine up this weekend.  I was using Ant2, but I don't see
that being a significant difference.  Initially, I was seeing the same
symptom but it went away. I am thinking that a power cycle might have
enabled something, but I am only guessing.  I was doing some contesting
on 6M(local) this weekend and it worked like a champ.  I also have the
sub, and it was also on Ant2 at the time.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 10:03 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
 Thanks Mike, Fred, and others . . .
 
 I will try the pin 11 mod though I fear that's not the problem, for three
 reasons.  Fred points out that pin 11 would keep the preamp on rather
 than
 off; second, having used a KAT (and a KPA) with the K3 since the KAT
 first
 came out, I've worked through the cabling business and had it all solved
 so far as the KAT is concerned.  And most convincing, one of my attempts
 was done with the K3 a cappella, so to speak -- I disconnected everything
 except the power supply and the antenna and the PR6-10, connecting only
 the unique 15-pin cable that was supplied with the PR6-10-- with the same
 result.
 
 Fred's book (2d Ed.) shows the block diagram of the PR6 (same as the
 6-10,
 I assume) and the KVX3, but the examples use a separate antenna in ANT 2
 for the preamped band.  I have but one coax line coming into the shack
 for
 every band -- the antenna switch is remote, out where the antennas are.
 (Reduces the number of holes you have to drill in the house.)  That feed
 line is in the K3 at ANT 1, and ANT 1 is selected.  The plan was to keep
 just one feed line and select  the preamp in for ten meters and out for
 everything else.  
 
 Am I trying to do something that's not possible?  Nothing I've seen in
 the
 Elecraft papers says anything about not using ANT 1 for everything
 including what the preamp is supposed to be preamping . . .
 
 Any further ideas?
 
 Tnx!
 
 Ted, KN1CBR
 
 
 Hi Ted,
 
 If you are using a KPA500 and a PR6 you will have to remove pin 11 from
 the
 cable that goes to the KPA500. It has popped up on this reflector once or
 twice but it is not mentioned in either the PR6 or the KPA500
 instructions.
 If you wonder if this will work just pull the 15 pin cable off of the
 KPA500
 and you'll see that the PR6 works as you would expect it to work.
 
 73,
 Mike K2MK
 
 
 Dauer, Edward wrote
  I need to ask for help configuring a PR6-10 on the K3.  Installed OK,
  removed the internal jumper per instructions and am using the control
 line
  on a Y splitter to allow the KPA and KAT to connect to the K3 as well.
  Physically, all seems fine, and the K3, P3, KPA and KAT work just as
 they
  always did.
  
  Then to operate the pre-amp I configured digout1 to ?on? for 28 Mhz on
 the
  K3, per instructions.  OK so far.
   
  
  The PR6-10 manual says ?Tap RX ANT to enable preamplifier.?  When I do
 so
  the noise level goes way down and the signals disappear, as if there
 were
  no antenna connected to the receiver.   Removing the power plug from the
  preamp made no difference in either mode ? RX ANT on or off.
   
  
  I recall when building the K3 that there were elections to be made about
  antenna configurations when installing the sub receiver and/or
  the KXV3.  I also remember that there are a myriad of ways the antennas
  can be routed via the configuration menus.  I have a feeling that the
  elections and internal configurations I originally made in the K3 are
 not
  compatible with getting the PR6-10 to work simply by pressing RX ANT,
 but
  I can?t reason my way through it all.
  
  
  Ted, KN1CBR
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Extra TMP cable

[Eric Ross]

I assume you also have the KAT3.  The sub-rx can either be hooked up to
the KAT3 or the AUX RF(bnc) connector, but not both.  When done, there
is a TMP cable that is connected to the KAT3 or AUX RF and one of the
two is not connected to the sub-rx.  You might have missed the step
where you attached that extra cable to its chassis connector.  See
Fig. 4 on page 43 in the owners manual.  Unless you plan to have a
receive-only antenna, the dotted line is normally not attached to your
sub-rx.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Mon, Jun 16, 2014, at 11:11 AM, N1IX wrote:
 I just completed assembling a K3 with the sub-receiver option. 
 
 I have an extra 12 TMP cable and I can't figure out where it goes. 
 
 The K3 and sub-rx seem to work correctly.
 
  
 
 Dave N1IX
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] PX3

[Eric Ross]

So  how are they different other than cosmetic attributes?

On Tue, Jun 10, 2014, at 10:57 AM, Dominic Baines wrote:
 Anyone who was at Dayton or anyone lucky enough to have seen one... can 
 you say what do the buttons and the rotary control on the PX3 do? Are 
 they 1:1 with respect to the P3?
 
 72
 
 Dom
 M1KTA
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.

[Eric Ross]

I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening.  I was on
the air on Sunday.  As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades
installed.  The basic turn on was done on Saturday.  I probably spent
about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw
something up.

Eric
wb7sde

On Fri, Jun 6, 2014, at 05:05 AM, David Cole wrote:
 Hi Eric,
 Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
 -- 
 Thanks and 73's,
 For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
 www.nk7z.net
 for MixW support see;
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
 for Dopplergram information see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
 for MM-SSTV see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
 
 
 On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote:
  I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month.   I 
  sure enjoyed the build.
  
  https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
  
  Eric
  wb7sde
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Weller WTCPT soldering sta....?

[Eric Ross]

In the WTCPT If you want to change the temperature you will have to
change the tip.  I have been using the WESD51 which has a knob
adjustable temperature setting.  During the build of my K3 being able to
adjust the temp based on what I was soldering was very handy.  I have
never had a bad experience with a Weller bench soldering station.  I
used to abuse them heavily professionally and they worked great.

Eric
WB7SDE

On Thu, Jun 5, 2014, at 10:16 AM, Nr4c wrote:
 Is this a good gen purpose soldering station?  Good or bad?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ...nr4c. bill
 
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[Elecraft] K3 assembly photo log.

[Eric Ross]

I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month.   I sure 
enjoyed the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/

Eric
wb7sde

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Re: [Elecraft] Computers in the Stone Age

[Eric Ross]

I believe Fred Flintstone's computer also used quite a bit of silicon
and other minerals.

Eric

On Wed, May 28, 2014, at 10:18 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Computers in the Stone Age:  I wonder what Fred Flintstone's computer 
 looked like?  :=)
 
   The IBM PC, which I bought in 1982 plus or minus a couple of years,
   cost me $5,000 in the dollars of the day.
 
 It's interesting that the latest, greatest, bleeding-edge PC always 
 seems to cost about $4000-$5000.  Then a year later you can buy the same 
 thing for $1000.  And a couple years after that it goes on the scrap 
 heap because it no longer has enough memory / hard disc space / 
 processor speed to run current software.
 
 Alan N1AL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Resistance Checks

[Eric Ross]

I just did mine last weekend.   It is the scariest and most exciting
moment of the whole build.

On Wed, May 28, 2014, at 01:41 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:
  It all went we'll thank you! All the smoke is still stored in the radio.
 
 Thanks for your help!
 
 73 de John, 9H5G
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: How Robust is the Build?

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

On 5/28/2014 5:33 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

But rocket lunches are covered even if the boosters fail?


I assume you mean launches... And yes, but only if you can return the 
complete KX3 with the serial number intact ;)


73, ROss N4RP



-Original Message-

From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Sent: May 28, 2014 1:51 PM
To: k...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: How Robust is the Build?

Your KX3 warranty will be void if you:

- use any sort of Van de Graaff antenna

- operate while sky-diving (OK), but forget to deploy the chute when a KP1 
calls CQ (not OK)

- operate in the state of California while simultaneously driving, eating, and 
writing .html

- out of nostalgia for solder, remove and reinstall all the SMD components

- empirically investigate the effect of condiments on option modules

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On May 28, 2014, at 9:59 AM, harry latterman harrylatter...@yahoo.com [KX3] 
k...@yahoogroups.com wrote:


George,

I agree with Ray.  This radio was designed to be a take it with you field 
radio. Based on the many treads from people doing SOTA, camping, hiking and 
other trips, it the design had been field tested many, many times. If there was 
a flaw it would have been made known by now. Over the years I have had the 
FT-817 and still have one, IC-703, recently for a short period of time the new 
Argonaut VI, KX1, K1, and about a half dozen other radios. None are totally 
safe from me or anyone else when it comes to dropping or getting wet or being 
sat on or other weird things that Murphy Law will set upon them. I feel very 
comfortable taking the KX3 to any and all hostel places without fear or 
question. The radio is build good enough for me, and I am very picky about 
which radios I will keep or get again. The FT-817 N or none-N is one. The Arg 
VI is nice but way, way over priced for what you get and I will never get a 
second now I have tried it. The 703 is not bad, but like the 817 some h

  a

ve had final failures. The KX1 and K1 are nice but limited in scope of what 
they can do. And I can probably add to the list but I hope I am getting my 
point of view across. There are no total Murphy Law proof radios. But this one 
come close enough for me not to be concerned bout the price and hurting 
something expensive.

2 cents over...back under my rock.. Have a great day

73  Harry  K7ZOV



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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”


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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM and keying KX3. What happens to the slashes // Solved

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

All it takes is a Y-adapter

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/22/2014 4:29 PM, Jim Brown wrote:


Yes, I've built several of them. The tricky part, though, is 
simultaneously interfacing a paddle to send fills.




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Question

[Eric Ross]

If you are referring to the span it is 200Khz.

http://www.elecraft.com/P3/p3.htm


On Mon, May 19, 2014, at 06:03 PM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
 Good Evening,
 This is Mark Griffin, KB3Z. I was reading about the P3 and was wondering
 what the Maximum Panadapter Bandwidth was. I was reading about the Flex
 6300 and they say their Max Panadapter Bandwidth is 7 Mhz. How does the
 P3 stack up to that? Thanks!!  Mark KB3Z
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-- 
  Eric Ross
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board Issue

[Ross Primrose]

Resistors almost never fail shorted, I've never seen it happen. Check 
for solder bridges, and look at the schematic and see what else could be 
causing a 0ohm reading.


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/9/2014 1:14 PM, Glenn Haffly wrote:

Doing something I should have not done , I managed to blow up Q11on the
control board. I fixed that with a replacement from my junkbox. All
voltages are correct on control board U3. When tapping display I get a
voltage of 23.3 volts indicated from a 12 volt supply and zero current.
Further checking shows R7 on the control board is zero ohms instead of
1.78K. How important is it to replace R7
with a 1% resistor rather than something from the junkbox?
Everything else on the K2 works fine , TX and RX are OK.
Hopefully a replacement R7 will then display the correct voltage and
current.
Any input from the reflector is appreciated.
Glenn , K5ZE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 part number for microphone jack plug.

[Ross Primrose]

http://www.amazon.com/Pin-Radio-Microphone-Female-Plug/dp/B0043ZLA8O/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8qid=1399401476sr=8-11keywords=8+Pin+Mic+Connector

$4.60, but free shipping

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/6/2014 2:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:
Universal Radio has the plug, the part number is 2112. ( I think the 
manufacturers part number it P-T700 ) . They are $3.99 each. Shipping 
is $6.95 so try to find something else to by to make it less 
expensive. I just ordered 2 and 20 feet of Heil microphone cable.


73s Jim, W4ATK
On 5/6/2014 1:26 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:

Hi all,

I inherited an old SSB desk mic. The only problem is that it doesn't 
have

a plug on the end of the cable!

I've pounded my head against the wall searching on digikey for the 
mic plug
part number. Does anyone have a part number (or anything close) that 
i can

use for a search?

Many thanks  73,

Frank
KG6EYC



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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] OT K3 part number for microphone jack plug.

[Ross Primrose]

Probably has a built-in roger beep ;)

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/6/2014 2:57 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

Says it's for CB radio so it must be idiot proof.
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-

From: Ross Primrose n...@n4rp.com
Sent: May 6, 2014 11:43 AM
To: Jim Rogers jim.w4...@gmail.com, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com, 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 part number for microphone jack plug.

http://www.amazon.com/Pin-Radio-Microphone-Female-Plug/dp/B0043ZLA8O/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8qid=1399401476sr=8-11keywords=8+Pin+Mic+Connector

$4.60, but free shipping

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/6/2014 2:36 PM, Jim Rogers wrote:

Universal Radio has the plug, the part number is 2112. ( I think the
manufacturers part number it P-T700 ) . They are $3.99 each. Shipping
is $6.95 so try to find something else to by to make it less
expensive. I just ordered 2 and 20 feet of Heil microphone cable.

73s Jim, W4ATK
On 5/6/2014 1:26 PM, Frank Precissi wrote:

Hi all,

I inherited an old SSB desk mic. The only problem is that it doesn't
have
a plug on the end of the cable!

I've pounded my head against the wall searching on digikey for the
mic plug
part number. Does anyone have a part number (or anything close) that
i can
use for a search?

Many thanks  73,

Frank
KG6EYC


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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Ross Primrose]

Another option that may fit in the budget is to buy a monitor and use it 
instead of the iMac display, that'd give you a lot more flexibility in 
monitor location


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/2/2014 7:49 AM, Joel Black wrote:
Shack layout is very personal. I get that. Laying out my shack is a 
hobby within a hobby; however, I cannot seem to get it just right. 
My wife will walk by and just shake her head.


I bought a late 2012 27 iMac. The thing is a beast! You cannot adjust 
the height of the monitor, but you can adjust the tilt. Compounding 
this problem is that I wear bifocals. Those of you who wear bifocals 
know that keeping your head tilted back trying to read the monitor is 
a PITA! Also, trying to get it the right distance so words are sharp 
is a pain. I *really* wish I had either bought the 21.5 iMac or a 
MBP. I am stuck with what I have for the next several years. Although 
my wife has a MBP, I don't think she'd be willing to trade that 
portability. I don't have the money for a new computer and I have twin 
daughters graduating high school next year so I am saving my pennies 
for a laptop for each of them.


I have a very large desk at my operating position. It is 5' x 3'. It 
is what I would call a wooden teacher's desk or a not so fancy 
banker's desk. On the left side is a spring-loaded shelf for a 
type-writer. I usually keep it inside in the down position and use it 
as a bookshelf inside. The right side has three drawers. There is a 
drawer in the middle. The left side is slightly larger than the right; 
therefore, both the monitor and I sit a little off-center to the 
right. I prefer to keep my monitor in the center to try and keep my 
neck looking straight forward. I also have a two-drawer wooden file 
cabinet that is the same height as my desk top. Although it is not as 
deep, I can place it on either side of the desk to extend the length 
of the desk.


I am right-handed. My radios are on the left; my keys (a paddle and a 
bug) and computer mouse are on the right. I usually tune the radio by 
placing the four fingers of my left hand on top of the radio and tune 
with my left thumb. Most of my radio operations are done with my left 
thumb. I do use my right hand to tune my P3. You can see my shack 
layout on my QRZ page. That layout has changed a bit to where my K3/P3 
are on the middle shelf now with both of them on the right side of 
that shelf. I find it better to see both the K3 and the P3. The rotor 
controller is under them and I have an FT-847 which is to the left of 
the rotor controller. The FT-847 sees very little use. I don't do much 
VHF/UHF FM from home and I don't yet have my antennas built for 
satellite operations.


I have a somewhat minimal hamshack and I'd like to keep it that way. 
iMac in the center of the desk and radios off to one side or the other 
since the monitor is so large and raising it would put undue strain on 
my neck. I love K5ND's layout (http://www.k5nd.net/), but putting that 
monitor up is too much for me. There is no simple way to reduce the 
*height* of the iMac either.


Would anyone be willing to take pictures of their shacks and sending 
them to me? Those who have large monitors would be especially 
appreciated. What have you done that makes your operation easier? I 
plan on buying a sheet of plywood and making a new set of shelves for 
my operating position, but I want some ideas too.


In the interest of list S/N ratio ;), please respond directly to me. 
Thanks.


73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Ross Primrose]

On 5/2/2014 10:38 AM, george fritkin via Elecraft wrote:

Who needs two receivers when you can buy two complete radios (TS590s) for the 
price of the Elecraft


The RX muting on transmit for the second receiver is already handled for 
you when you buy a K3, you'd have to get creative to implement that with 
two TS590s ;)


73, Ross N4RP



George, W6GFOwing 2)K3s .1)KX3AND 1)TS590S


On Thursday, May 1, 2014 11:55 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett w...@w0mu.com wrote:
  
The 590 has some short falls.  No 2nd receiver, some issues on 10m.

Only one roofing filter.

I owned a couple of FT-2000's and they were easy to use.  Looked pretty
cool but had some serious performance issues in the receiver.  Sold them
and got a K3 and then another one.

Most reflectors and groups deal with issues and problems.  I try not to
get too involved with the negatives about what I own.

Mike W0MU

On 5/2/2014 12:24 AM, K8JHR wrote:

His question is ...

Why have some operators sold their TS-590s to buy a K3?

Only one who has sold a TS-590 to purchase a K3 is competent to answer
and state his reason for doing that.

I am almost similarly situated as the original inquisitor... I
recently sold my 590 and now seriously consider buying a K3, but I am
still on the fence, planning to test drive the K3 as soon as possible.

Why did I sell my 590 to consider buying the K3?   The 590 is a solid
performer, and I enjoyed using it, and while my rig had no issues, I
sold it because I did not enjoy the overall 590-ownership-experience,
and although it is too complicated to explain fully here, I will say I
was sick of too many other owners whining and expecting perfection
from a $1500 radio, basing many complaints on unfounded or fanciful
claims, paranoid delusions, and unreasonable expectations.  I just got
sick of it, and of being asked by other hams about this and that so
called issue or problem I was not experiencing, so it was no fun
to own.

So, I bought a Orion II and now considering buying a K3, both of which
radios seem free from that sort of nonsense.

That's my reason, anyway.

---  K8JHR  --

On 5/1/2014 9:32 PM, Richard W Hemingway wrote:

Hello everyone,

I am a newbe and am selling my Kenwood TS 590s to buy a K3.  I am
wondering how many of  us have had a 590 and come to a K3 and why?
Thanks

DIck N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

On 4/30/2014 5:30 PM, Vic Rosenthal K2VCO wrote:
I think we should all keep this in mind in case we encounter giant 
ants while operating. Possibly on Field Day?


You guys use a helicopter for field day? Cool! ;)

73, Ross N4RP


On 4/30/2014 2:27 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

The phrase Over and Out was a key part of the brief training
lessons for the young female scientist near the beginning of the
movie Them!. She was being taught proper protocol of using the
radio while searching for giant ants in a helicopter.

K7PEH





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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[Ross Primrose]

But, if Elecraft had a USB port on the back of the K3, then _Elecraft_ 
would be the only one that had to worry about fake chips.  The end user 
would only have to supply a USB cable


73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 2:19 PM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote:

Hello Don,

With the serial cable, I can use a real serial port or a good USB to 
serial adapter to

program my handheld.


I have to disagree with you. Yes, a RS-232 interface is the best 
choice, if you can use a RS-232 interface at your computer. If not, 
also you will use an adapter. But what is a RS-232 to USB adapter? 
Right, a chip from Prolific or FTDI ( hopefully). Nobody is protected 
from a fake chip.



--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.

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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[Ross Primrose]

Sorry, but I've gotta call b*^@%^t on that one. Elecraft is already 
SELLING a USB dongle that has a USB to serial chip in it. The same 
drivers that work just fine with that chip in a dongle will work fine if 
that chip is in a K3, neither the chip or the driver care where the chip 
is mounted.


As far as Win 95/98/200/XP and OS9, you've got to be kidding...

73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 3:00 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Then _Elecraft_ would need to worry about continuously updated and
*signed* drivers for Windows (including Windows 95, 98, 2000 and XP
compatible drivers 15 year after the operating system is no longer
supported), OS-9, OS-X, and 57 varieties of LINUX.

Far better to stick with RS-232 and leave the _USER_ be responsible
for his on computer interfacing.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 4/14/2014 2:36 PM, Ross Primrose wrote:

But, if Elecraft had a USB port on the back of the K3, then _Elecraft_
would be the only one that had to worry about fake chips. The end user
would only have to supply a USB cable

73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 2:19 PM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote:

Hello Don,


With the serial cable, I can use a real serial port or a good USB to
serial adapter to
program my handheld.


I have to disagree with you. Yes, a RS-232 interface is the best
choice, if you can use a RS-232 interface at your computer. If not,
also you will use an adapter. But what is a RS-232 to USB adapter?
Right, a chip from Prolific or FTDI ( hopefully). Nobody is protected
from a fake chip.




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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[Ross Primrose]

Last I checked, there were a few, very expensive, Windows laptops that 
were available with real serial ports.  Other than that, you're stuck 
with a desktop or a USB adapter.


73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 3:40 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
The only way I know to use a genuine RS-232 port is to use a desk top 
computer with a plug in board.  I would also like to use a lap-top 
computer and as far as I know RS-232 ports are not available.  If 
anyone knows differently, please let us in on the info.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


*From:* Ross Primrose n...@n4rp.com
*To:* Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Sent:* Monday, April 14, 2014 1:36 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

But, if Elecraft had a USB port on the back of the K3, then _Elecraft_
would be the only one that had to worry about fake chips. The end user
would only have to supply a USB cable

73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 2:19 PM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote:
 Hello Don,

 With the serial cable, I can use a real serial port or a good USB to
 serial adapter to
 program my handheld.

 I have to disagree with you. Yes, a RS-232 interface is the best
 choice, if you can use a RS-232 interface at your computer. If not,
 also you will use an adapter. But what is a RS-232 to USB adapter?
 Right, a chip from Prolific or FTDI ( hopefully). Nobody is protected
 from a fake chip.


--
FCC Section 97.313(a) At all times, an amateur station must use the 
minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired 
communications.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: application of directional Quad in UHF

[Ross Primrose]

Check out the Quagi: http://n6nb.com/quagi.htm

73, Ross N4RP

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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 horizontal 40 meter antenna loop feed connection - HOW?

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

Ladder line doesn't like to be near stuff...  Feed it with coax, even 
with a high SWR on the coax your losses will be negligible over that 
length.  A 1:1 or 4:1 current balun at the feedpoint would probably be a 
good idea, but isn't a deal breaker...


73, Ross N4RP, who needs to get his 160m loop back up before the leaves 
come out ;)


On 4/1/2014 5:26 PM, Esquer Dave wrote:

Newbie Dave, KX3 owner with built in ATU. I have a loop antenna feed point line 
question. I know this is not an antenna group but I want something optimized 
for the KX3 and QRP.

I have installed a 40 meter skywire horizontal loop antenna in my attic, 135 
feet in length. I hope to use the antenna on 40-10 meters. I live in a condo 
complex, fortunately for me, on the 2nd floor. The distance from the feed point 
to the rig vertically is about 20 ft and about 5 ft horizontally through a 
ceiling.

Coax or ladder line feed, most say ladder line for low loss?

I am stumped, confused and bewildered about how to feed my KX3. Opinions are 
ALL over the map with NO consistency. I have researched the Skywire google and 
yahoo groups and the ARRL docs.  Just tell me what works best for my KX3 and 
how to do it.

If I feed with 450 ohm ladder line, how do I transition from the ladder line to 
the rig? Is it antenna ends to 20 ft of ladder line to the balun and then a 
short stub of coax? What is short, 1 to 5 ft? Do I cut the ladder line long and 
what do I do with excess? The ladder line has to stay mostly vertical?

I have the BNC to binding post adapter as well. Can I just feed ladder line to 
the binding posts directly with maybe some kind of strain relief?

It sorta works now with the antenna loop connected to an MFJ913 4:1 balun to 
RG8X coax to rig. SWR on 40 meters is about 2.0 to 2.2 across the band (low to 
high) as measured externally before connecting to the rig. Am I good enough? 
The ATU handles it quite nicely bringing it down to 1:1.

I’ve tried feeding the coax directly, with no balun, but that made the SWR much 
worse externally, 5:1 and up.

Remember, be gentle to this newbie and TIA,

Dave Esquer, K6WDE
dave.esq...@gmail.com






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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Audio Power

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

Just use a pair of small amplified computer speakers...

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/27/2014 8:46 PM, Doug Person wrote:
Now that the KX3 can function as a full QRO transceiver with the new 
amplifier, I find myself a bit disappointed with audio output power. 
Even with the most efficient speaker I can find, I can't really get a 
comfortable audio level. So, I'm kind of stuck with headphones to 
really hear well. Wondering if anyone has tried building a simple 
audio amp that will power a decent desk speaker. I was wondering if 
these class D modules are worth investigating. Anyone have any ideas?


73, Doug -- K0DXV
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
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Re: [Elecraft] Digimodes what am I missing?

[Ross Primrose]

On 3/21/2014 11:39 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:

I like digimodes because the technology is awesome.

I'm amused when people consider them new, because they've been around for 
roughly 50 years.


I think you've underestimated by quite a bit.  RTTY has been around 
since the early '30s.


73, Ross N4RP

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Re: [Elecraft] Digimodes what am I missing?

[Ross Primrose]

Many of the Olivia variants are much slower than typing speeds as well. 
I've had Olivia QSOs that lasted more than 1hr I've also made Olivia 
QSOs when there was nothing audible  nothing visible on the waterfall.


73, Ross N4RP

On 3/21/2014 1:39 PM, Mark Petiford wrote:

I accidentally fat fingered this directly to wunder instead of to the list, 
so here it is again...I hope:

I am going to put a pitch in here for some of the not so new digimodes as a way to keep the hobby 
interesting.  RTTY has certainly been around a lot longer than 50 years...even longer than ME...and has a 
beautiful sound.  I find a bit more conversation there, but a lot more macros being used there 
than 40 years ago.  All we had back then was a CQ tape, a brag tape, etc.  It kept you busier than a 
one-armed paper hanger because you were literally hanging the paper tapes on the wall with little 
pieces of masking tape on the end and loading the one you wanted to use next into the tape reader.Another old 
fun mode that has been around longer than 50 years is Helschreiber, and all of its incarnations.  It was one 
of the very first attempts to send text via radio. Technically it is a facsimile mode (thank you spell 
checker), with a scanner on one end sending a small picture of each text character and one the other end 
reproducing it.  It has a
  fascinating history.  I find a lot more conversation among  operators using 
that mode, probably because even the slowest of typists can keep up with it, 
but the length of a conversation tends to be limited by propagation changes.  
It does require some (not a lot) operator skill to tune in and to keep it tuned 
in, similar to the days before waterfalls when you tuned RTTY by ear or using a 
scope.  It certainly isn't the ultimate mode (which is why it is so obscure), 
but it is great fun to use it occasionally instead of PSK.Operating some of the 
older modes is a bit like flying old airplanes.  They generally require more 
airman skill due to tailwheels, tailskids, adverse yaw, poorer instrumentation, 
etc., but are great fun once you master them.  Same with CW and some of the 
other old modes.  While my CW skill have deteriorated in part due to age 
issues, it is beautiful to watch a couple of skilled CW operators running QSK 
working together, and I am not
  talking about code speed.  It is even more fun to be a part of it.  It is a skill that 
I don't hear much anymore.  The standard CW exchanges don't really do the mode justice 
compared to a good QSK conversation between skilled operators.Tired of the same old PSK 
conversations?  Try one of the old time modes, or throw away the waterfall.  
Do something different.  It will make you a better operator and you will learn something 
about the history of radio.73,Mark,
KE6BB
or as it was sent on a Model 19 
TTY:-ltrs-ltrs-KE-nbrs-6-ltrs-ltrs-BB-CR-CR-LF-LF
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
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Re: [Elecraft] Button of no return

[Ross Primrose]

On 3/14/2014 5:33 AM, AD6XY wrote:

Power cuts happen, for whatever reason and we can't have them
bricking the radio, whatever it happens to be doing at the time. I am sure
Elecraft have been working on it, probably late into the night.



And THAT's the real problem. The K3 has been around long enough, and had 
this problem since day one, that it's pretty obvious Elecraft isn't 
interested in fixing it...


73, Ross N4RP

--
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transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] Fraud

[Bill Ross]

Just to follow-up on my post of last night, I tried to notify AOL of the 
fraudulent use of my name and call on their email list, by sending a email to 
“fraud@aol’'.com” but it bounced. I had looked on the AOL website but couldn’t 
find an address to write to for such matters, so I would appreciate it if 
anyone on the list knows how to contact AOL without having an account there. 

Tnx  73

Bill, k6mgo

Message: 26
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 18:13:31 -0800
From: Bill Ross k6...@verizon.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fraud
Message-ID: 0CB07BA4C7B249F7820081CBD65D11A2@rossHP
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Just a heads up to all on the list, someone is posing as me, William H. Ross at 
k6mg...@aol.com and listing a K3/P3 station with all equipment for $2950. 
I don?t have a P3, but do have a K3 which is not for sale now, around Christmas 
time, I did post an ad on QRZ listing my K3 for sale, and per QRZ?s 
requirements, sent a picture of the K3 with a QSL card in the picture to 
authenticate it which this person copied and posted on QTH with the phony ad. I 
have received emails and phone calls from several hams wanting to inquire if 
the ad was on the up and up, which of course, it wasn?t. 
So if anyone see?s this ad or hears about anyone wanting to buy this equipment, 
please warn them that the ad is a fraud.

Tnx and 73

Bill, k6mgo

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[Elecraft] Fraud

[Bill Ross]

This should be the last post on this thread but just wanted to say thanks to 
all who responded to my plea for info on how to reach AOL.

Also would like to explain my reasoning in wanting to reach AOL about this 
matter. 

I am not a lawyer but I was worried that if someone sent money to this phony 
for some equipment and didn’t receive it, they might come after me for some 
reason. People now days are sue happy and will do so at the drop of the hat. 
Just heard on the news this evening that the family of the boy who had sex with 
his teacher and fathered a child just got $50 for it. I can remember when I 
was a teenager and sex was upper most in my mind, and all I can say is it 
wouldn’t have taken $50 for me to have taken advantage of such an 
opportunity. So the fact that I have documented the problem to AOL, and posted 
a note on my QRZ page, and also posted the info her, I think would make a 
strong case that I did all that should be expected of me to disclaim any loss 
that anyone might incur from this fraudulent ad in my name and call. 

So all I am saying is I have bought many rigs and sold many rigs on various 
reflectors and QRZ.com and never had a problem either way, but from now on, I 
for one will be extremely careful before I send money or send a rig to someone 
from such a transaction. Lesson learned.

73, Bill, k6mgo 
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[Elecraft] Fraud

[Bill Ross]

Just a heads up to all on the list, someone is posing as me, William H. Ross at 
k6mg...@aol.com and listing a K3/P3 station with all equipment for $2950. 
I don’t have a P3, but do have a K3 which is not for sale now, around Christmas 
time, I did post an ad on QRZ listing my K3 for sale, and per QRZ’s 
requirements, sent a picture of the K3 with a QSL card in the picture to 
authenticate it which this person copied and posted on QTH with the phony ad. I 
have received emails and phone calls from several hams wanting to inquire if 
the ad was on the up and up, which of course, it wasn’t. 
So if anyone see’s this ad or hears about anyone wanting to buy this equipment, 
please warn them that the ad is a fraud.

Tnx and 73

Bill, k6mgo
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Ross Johnson]

Hi everyone

I am thinking of buying a KPA500 and maybe a  tuner.Main reason is that it 
covers 50 MHz.

As it is not cheap to import ( dollar exchange rate, freight, sales tax here 
etc) I 
am interested in what others have found with the amps performance on 50 Mhz.


73  Ross  ZL3ADT


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[Elecraft] Mag Loop Reflector

[Bill Ross]

OK Ron,

Here it is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MagLoop/

73, 

Bill, k6mgo



Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2013 16:08:36 -0700
From: Ron Schwartz rs500...@icloud.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Loop Antennas
Message-ID: f6569a0f-0b4b-4cc1-a086-5719d6c69...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Would you mind posting the link to the Mag Loop Reflector website mentioned in 
the reply.

Thanks, Ron


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[Elecraft] Loop Antennas

[Bill Ross]

Hi Bob,

I live in a restricted community, and so have to use indoor antennas and 
recently I bought a MFJ 935B Loop Tuner. I made the suggested 3 different size 
loops and have been working out very well from 40m to 10m with them. I used to 
use a indoor doublet, 50’ long strung from a bedroom to the living room and I 
find the loops a bit better as shown on Reverse Beacon Net. YMMV. I am lucky in 
that my house is not stucco with chicken wire wrap all around it. You can 
download the manual and real all about it and then decide if it’s for you. Keep 
in mind, that this is an “entry level” loop antenna, and if you go to the Mag 
Loop Reflector website, you can read a lot more about what the “experts” are 
doing with mag loops way and above the MFJ Tuner/loops. But, it works for me 
and a good starting point. Good luck,

73,

Bill k6mgo

Does anyone have any experience using multi-turn loop antennas with SGC?s
(or other) antenna tuners?

SGC describes these in their book Smartuners for Stealth Antennas.  See
http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Books/stealthbook.pdf

I have a K3 and live in a HOA community with significant antenna
restrictions, so I am looking for a small antenna.

73,

Bob  -  N7RJN

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[Elecraft] O.T Question for the group

[Bill Ross]

Was wondering if anyone can tell me if the iPads will run any ham software such 
as the Elecraft Utilities and Echolink, Fldigi or digipan? I wouldn’t want to 
get one and find out I can’t run those programs, so any advice?

tnx and 73

Bill, k6mgo
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[Elecraft] Loop antenna's

[Bill Ross]

I read the two posts about the MFJ loop antenna and thought I would add my own 
personal comments on my experience’s with loops. 

Years ago, I bought a MFJ 36” loop with the remote tuner and while it worked 
from indoors from 30m to 10m,  it wasn’t earth shaking. I was always the 
weakest signal in a round table. That was when MFJ was still recommending using 
the loop in a horizontal position rather than vertical as they do now. 

Now, I had been reading some reviews on the MFJ loop antenna tuners and decided 
to get one and try it out. I got the MFJ-935B tuner that comes complete with 
the tuning cap and matching cap plus a RF current meter for tuning, so all you 
need to add is a loop to make it work.

3’ dia. loops are fine for the higher HF bands, and if you are going portable 
with it, then it might be the right antenna for you, but if you are living in a 
antenna restricted home as I am, and have to use indoor antennas let me tell 
you that I have used many different configurations of antennas and find that 
the loop is working the best for me, so far. I have used a Super Antenna MP-1 
coil loaded vertical like a mobile whip, I have used homebrew Buddipole, and 
various indoor doublets so I have some data to compare them to. I use the 
Reverse Beacon Net for getting accurate reports back on my signal with the 
various antennas. 

As I said above, the 3’ dia. loop is fine for the higher bands, and OK for 20m 
and 30m but if you want to really get out as good as you can, then the homebrew 
loop that is bigger, is the way to go. MFJ says that a 7 foot wire or copper 
tube will make a loop to go with their series of loop tuners that will cover 
20m, 17m and 15, and it does, but, if you want to maximize your signal on 20m 
the way to go is to use a 13 ft. wire or tube which doesn’t make that big of a 
loop and gets out a lot better on 20m.. My 7 ft. loop got a 12 dB SNR from K7EG 
RBN and the 13 ft. loop got a 18 dB SNR from him just a few minutes later and 
at the same power input from my K3. 

On 40m MFJ says a 20 ft. wire will tune 40m and 30m and it does, but a 28 ft. 
wire will give you maximum output (for a mag loop) and it does. I think I got 
about 8-10 dB more out of the 28 ft. loop than the 20 ft. one on 40m. MFJ says 
you can hang these larger loops form a curtain rod or draped over a bookcase 
and that’s what I do, it’s not critical but you do have to be very careful and 
not touch the loop when transmitting as there is a lot of RF in that loop. I 
made two PVC standards that sit on top of my bookcase/desk where I operate from 
and have the 28 ft. wire forming a square shape hanging from the top of the 
standards, coming down to a shelf just about eye level and I have the tuner 
there so I can adjust it as needed. With this loop and the K3 at 5 watts I 
contact my buddy Dale, K6PJV up in Sacramento just about anytime I want to,   
just fine from Marina Del Rey, CA and remember this loop is indoors on the 
second floor of my home. That’s almost 400 miles. 

On 20m with the 13 ft. wire in a diamond shape on a cross piece made out of PVC 
that sits on the tuner, I work AL7V up in Juneau Alaska with 50-100 watts on a 
pretty regular basis in the mornings. So if you are restricted to indoor 
antennas you might find the loop antenna is the way to for you. 

Usual disclaimer, I don’t work for or have any financial attachment to MFJ, 
just a happy customer.

73, Bill k6mgo 

   
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[Elecraft] K3 5143 ERR TXG on 10m 6m?

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

I've suddenly started getting a ERR TXG on 10m  6m on my 10w K3 (SN 
5143). Trying to perform the 5W TX calibration fails when if gets to 
10m. Ideas?


Thanks, and 73, Ross N4RP

--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3

[Ross Primrose]

And, the Feb. 2012 QST reviews:

Jetstream JTPS30M
Powerwerx SS-30DV
QJE DX PS30SWII
Ten-Tec 941

73, Ross N4RP

On 6/13/2013 2:16 PM, Reinaldo Leandro, YV5AM wrote:

The July 2006 issue of QST carries an updated article reviewing power
supplies:
Switching Power Supplies:
• DAIWA SS-330W
• KENWOOD KPS-15
• MFJ-4125
• TEN-TEC 963

Do not forget the Gamma Research HPS-1a Switching Power Supply, reviewed in
Sep 2007.
I use it when operating away from home. Nothing can beat the small size and
weight.
73

Reinaldo, YV5AM

-Original Message-
From: Dave Hachadorian [mailto:k6ll.d...@gmail.com]
Sent: miércoles, 12 de junio de 2013 15:28
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3

It was interesting to re-read the ARRL reviews of some of the switching
supplies:
http://www.arrl.org/files/file/protected/Group/Members/ProductReview/pdf/pr0
001.pdf

The switchers were fairly RF-quiet at low current draw, and then created
more noise as they drew more current.  This is fine for the usual
single-transmitter ham station, but could be an issue in so2r or multiop.

I use a single Astron RS-35A analog supply for so2r with two K3's.  It works
great, and it is a fail-safe way to ensure that both K3's can not transmit
at the same time. The supply will simply groan and give up!

Astron linear supplies also have a simple (internal) voltage adjustment, so
you can pump the voltage up to 14.5 for reduced IMD.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, Arizona











































.



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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] K3 stuck in transmit?

[Ross Primrose]

My K3 is stuck in transmit. As soon as it powers on, it goes straight 
into transmit. Nothing I've tried has corrected the problem. At this 
point, there's nothing connected to the K3 except power and a dummy 
load, still can't get it out of transmit. Doesn't want to respond to the 
serial port (when it's hooked up, of course) either.


Ideas?

73, Ross N4RP

--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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[Elecraft] K3 and transverter output

[Ross Biggar]

I have been using my K3 to drive a transverter (with 28mhz input 1296 output). 
and using the low power
output to the transverte through the KXV3 option. 
All of transmissions have been using digital.
The K3 has worked perfectly.

Having proved I can do EME, I now want to go back and use the K3 for HF digital 
and SSB.

However, here is the problem.
I cannot get the K3 to output to the HF antennas. I have gone to Config and 
turned XV ON to NO,
but nothing comes out of the HF antenna output.
So what am I missing???

Also I cannot get the rig to work on SSB with a mic, (it works perfectly on 
digital)

Help please.

Regards
Ross
ZL1WN
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[Elecraft] Beta Firmware upgrade

[Bill Ross]

I went to the Elecraft Web Site and to the Firmware Upgrade download. Then 
followed the links to the Beta Upgrade, and it says to download “K3fwXrYz zip”” 
if you don’t see it, refresh your browser”,

What I see is “K3fw4r58.zip” dated 11/13/2012,  and refreshing the browser 
doesn’t change it.

What happened to “K3fwXrYzip”?

Thanks for any help.

73, Bill, k6mgo
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[Elecraft] Installing Beta firmware

[Bill Ross]

Thanks for those who helped me ID the 4.58 Beta Firmware. Now, I can’t get it 
installed. 

The Instructions say, “Do not check K3 Utility Box “ Copy New Files from 
Elecraft Server”...I didn’t

They say, “Check Versions Now”... I did.   I have the old files in a folder on 
desktop (Windows 7) called “K3 Firmware”.  Everything checks out, I have 4.51 
installed.

I go to Browse and go to new folder with “K3 Beta” Beta 4.58 unzipped. Because 
Instructions say not to put the Beta file in the folder with old firmware, but 
open new folder on desktop and store Beta version in it.  

As soon as I do that, the “Check Versions Now” shows MCU, FPF, DSP1 and DSP2 
“Missing” and it greys out “Send All Firmware” and “Send New Firmware” and so I 
can’t get it to load the new Beta Firmware.

Anyone see what I am doing wrong?

Tnx for any help,

Bill, k6mgo

 
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[Elecraft] BL-2 Balun

[Bill Ross]

Question: Is the BL-2 Balun a current or voltage Balun?

Bill, k6mgo
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[Elecraft] P3 query

[Ross Biggar]

I use my P3 for weak signal work.
Is it possible to expand the scale, so say 150 to 120db is what I want to see, 
rather than 150 to 90?

Thanks
Ross
ZL1WN
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 101, Issue 26

[Bill Ross]

I had #24 and just got #26 this morning, but no #25. 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 9:00 AM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 101, Issue 26 

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than Re: Contents of Elecraft digest...






Today's Topics:

   1. Re: [K3] Phase Noise / CW Key Clicks (Barry N1EU)
   2. K3 min. insulation between in band TX  RX? (Felipe Ceglia)
   3. Re: USB Sound Adapter (Ignacy)






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 psk D splater

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

Maybe you ought to read Jim's post again. Sure looks like he's talking 
about the sound card out going into the radio

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/30/2012 1:52 PM, Rick Bates wrote:
 And you missed that Jim was talking about the RECEIVE station overdriving
 the sound card for decoding.  ;-)

 Both sides need to have the correct settings before making judgments.

 Rick wa6nhc

 -Original Message-
 From: iain macdonnell - N6ML

 On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Jim Brownj...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 wrote:
 On 5/30/2012 6:13 AM, dm...@nexicom.net wrote:
 Question, What can cause splatter when using PSK-D
 Splatter is simply distortion. Anything in the audio chain can cause
 splatter, from the computer to the audio section of the K3.  Many
 (most?) computer sound cards will create distortion if turned up too
 high, and turning it up too high can also cause the input of the radio
 to create distortion.

 You can hook a scope to the output of the sound card and watch it for
 clipping of the sine wave as you adjust the gain (on the Windows
 PLAYBACK mixer). Turn the gain up until it you just begin to see
 clipping, or until the signal stops getting stronger, then reduce the
 gain until the voltage drops to one half of that value (that is, the
 trace is half as tall).  If you don't have a scope, LISTEN to the sound
 card with headphones and make the same adjustment. What you're listening
 for is any harshness that appears when you turn it up, and when you hear
 it, reduce the gain until it sounds half as loud.

 Now you're ready to adjust the Line Input gain of the K3 according to
 the K3 manual.
 You missed the point - he's not using an external audio feed to the
 K3. I've never used Kcomm, but if it operates in PSK D mode, it must
 be sending commands, with text, to the K3, and the K3 does all of the
 modulation.

 73,

  ~iain / N6ML
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-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] PL-259 Connectors

[Ross Primrose N4RP]

W3LPL recommends this one:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1SP/?qs=qhgJLQbFbXlTrY%2furm6%2fdAkd3oX%2fdrWz3R1okn99EvE%3d
 
and no other

73, Ross N4RP

On 5/23/2012 8:48 AM, Gary Gregory wrote:
 *Esteemed members of this group.

 Can anyone send me a link to a reputable supplier of quality PL-259
 connectors as I need to renew my patch chords.

 It appears after sending email requests to numerous suppliers in VK they
 all seem to sell rubbish..aaah...

 In the interest of BW perhaps it is best you reply direct? i don't wish to
 start an another off topic lengthy discussion. I just want to order some
 decent connectors...:-)

 Regards to all.

 Gary
 *


-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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