Re: [Elecraft] K3 & K3s Parts

[hawley, charles j jr]

Generally...whatever you stock in replacement parts will never be needed. These 
devices know what’s on the shelf. The part that device breaks will be the least 
expected part.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 13, 2019, at 12:09 PM, "g...@gmx.net"  wrote:
> 
> Very true. I just tried to get every important missing option and the 
> upgrades.
> I'm asking myself it it makes sense to replace the front panel, as it seems 
> to be impossible to repair or clean the soft knobs. Or am I missing something?
> 
>> Am 13.12.2019 um 18:28 schrieb Bob McGraw K4TAX:
>> Having been down this path with another company and having to plan for 
>> end-of-life support for products of that company, I would caution that 
>> hoarding parts, sucks up and will rapidly deplete any inventory planned.  
>> Although I understand the desire to keep your radio operational, without 
>> parts at the service location then radios can’t be repaired.
>> 
>> Personally I would prefer to have the parts at the service location as 
>> opposed to them sitting in some unknown hams desk drawer.  Those in the desk 
>> drawer won’t likely do anyone any good.
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Dec 13, 2019, at 10:24 AM, Doug Hensley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Scott has a great point.  With radio models changing & out-dating as they 
>>> do,
>>> please recommend, if you can, what K3 (and particularly what K3s)parts would
>>> be good to have for either the future or the future owner.
>>> 
>>> Only Elecraft would know what parts are either failing or dwindling in 
>>> supply
>>> and they may not want to let that information out.
>>> 
>>> Thank you,
>>> 
>>> Doug W5JV
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>>> Behalf Of K9MA
>>> Sent: 12 December, 2019 15:44
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Parts
>>> 
>>> I'm thinking it might be a good idea to stock up on K3 parts I might need in
>>> the future, when they may not be available. Two likely candidates are the
>>> main VFO encoder and the AF/RF gain pots. Any other suggestions?
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> Scott K9MA
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Scott  K9MA
>>> 
>>> k...@sdellington.us
>>> 
>>> __
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S driving an Alpha 86

[hawley, charles j jr]

The Alpha 86 has a 10K resistor on the input of a cmos nand gate. So pulling 
that to ground is simple...and well within the K3s 200 V/5 A specs.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 7, 2019, at 2:32 AM, Roger  wrote:
> 
> 
> No problem with the ALPHA amplifiers - the switching voltage is approx. 24 V
> @ 350 mA. The K3S MOSFET switch will switch up to 200 V (absolute MAX.!) and
> several amperes.
> 
> But to make sure connect a voltmeter to the PTT socket on the amp and
> measure the voltage then switch to current measurement and switch the
> amplifier to TX with the multimeter. If both readings (voltage and current)
> are within limits then you are absolutely safe!
> 
> 73 Roger, DL5RBW
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of DC
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2019 6:28 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S driving an Alpha 86
> 
> I have used a K3 with an Alpha 76, 78 and 77DX.
> 
>> On 12/6/2019 8:08 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> Sorry Vic, I had a different manufacturer manual in front of me trying to
> assist another ham with his radio and amp connection.
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Dec 6, 2019, at 9:45 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP 
> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S accessories availability, moving forward

[hawley, charles j jr]

BMW Motorcycles keeps many parts for more than 50 years. I once ordered a set 
of springs for a 1960 BMW and BMW parts in Germany sent one and ordered the 
second one from an outside vendor...which means they had it made.
There's more value to supplying parts for obsolete products than what the 
accounts see.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2019, at 2:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Ed explained it quite well.   I would add that when a product is discontinued 
> usually the options, being also considered as product, will go away as well.  
>  This does not imply that repair parts are discontinued.   It is often 
> confusing to users when a product is not longer available that service parts 
> of the same items are available.  Usually one has a product model number and 
> the other has a service part number.
> 
> After a product is obsoleted, where I previously worked, we planned service 
> parts supports for some 7 or so years.  There is no legal requirement for a 
> company to do this with consumer type products.   Often we missed the 
> projection and ran out early.  In some cases it was the customers that 
> ordered an excessive number of service parts {so they could have spares} and 
> this drew down the projected service parts inventory.And then too, the 
> accountants came around asking what is all of this on the shelves for the 
> last 5 years with no usage?   Get rid of the inventory as it is costing the 
> company money. The customer looses either way.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 12/6/2019 1:00 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
>> Don explained it well; Elecraft support appears to continue for the K3, K3S. 
>>  Obtaining new options apparently has a shorter life-span.
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Replaced Module Value

[hawley, charles j jr]

Of course it varies. I think right now, the value of the earlier modules in the 
K3 are not worth much, but if someone needs an item to restore function to a K3 
and the cupboard is bare at Elecraft, then the value goes up. I would just hang 
on to them if someone doesn't have a good reason to need one for postage.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Wilson Lamb 
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2019 8:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Replaced Module Value

I bought a used K3 (works fine) with updated synth and transverter interface.
I was politely told that the interface module was worth the cost of postage.
Are the original synths worth anything?
Wilson
W4BOH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Drive Levels and the SPE 1.3K-FA

[hawley, charles j jr]

Oh I just reread your post. My mistake. So running low power on the KPA is also 
problematic?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Nov 21, 2019, at 10:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> I learned my lesson running 12 to 15 watts or so having to replace the KPA3A 
> twice.  I now run 20 to 25 watts driving my KPA500 to rated output.  Be it 
> CW, SSB or digital modes.  Otherwise it is 100 watts when not running the 
> KPA500.  Running conservative power doesn't get it. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 21, 2019, at 9:15 PM, Dennis Ashworth  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Makes you wonder how K3/10 users fair running high duty cycle modes at full 
>> output. I’ve replaced two sets of LPF drivers running 10W WSJT on my K3/100. 
>> No more! Now I advance the power until the amplifier engages (~12W). 
>> Hopefully this reduces driver dissipation.
>> 
>> Dennis, K7FL 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Nov 21, 2019, at 5:15 PM, dgb  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the good info Keith - I quit using 12w yrs ago as one E'craft 
>>> tech told me after the 1st one blew.
>>> 
>>> Also heard from another that I could turn the fans on all the time which 
>>> should help as normally they are only on when you go to 13w and up.
>>> 
>>> Will play with them - t u 73 Dwight NS9I
>>> 
> On 11/21/2019 4:04 PM, Keith Trinity WE6R wrote:
 You can play with the Config Menu watt meter calibration high and low 
 numbers to get the switch-over point different.
 IE where the Low power amp (LPA) switches to 100 amp (KPA3). This happens 
 at 12W "indicated".
 The two Calibration numbers are for all bands!
 So; Go into config menu WMTR LP (below 12W) or HP (above 12W). (note 6 
 meters switches at 8W)!
 Make a note of both numbers so you can put them back!
 Extreme numbers to get the KPA3 to click in at lower actual power levels 
 would be to set both for 180 (max).
 You will have to use an external watt-meter to see what is going on as the 
 K3 internal watt-meter readout is all out of calibration now!!
 I just played with a radio and it switches over at about 7 watts with both 
 numbers at 180
 Have fun!
 Keith WE6R
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Drive Levels and the SPE 1.3K-FA

[hawley, charles j jr]

I thought the answer was to run the KPA  by going up to 12 or 15 watts. What is 
the LPA running when when the power is at 12 or 15 watts? What is it running 
when the power is at 20 or 25 watts?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Nov 21, 2019, at 10:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> I learned my lesson running 12 to 15 watts or so having to replace the KPA3A 
> twice.  I now run 20 to 25 watts driving my KPA500 to rated output.  Be it 
> CW, SSB or digital modes.  Otherwise it is 100 watts when not running the 
> KPA500.  Running conservative power doesn't get it. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 21, 2019, at 9:15 PM, Dennis Ashworth  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Makes you wonder how K3/10 users fair running high duty cycle modes at full 
>> output. I’ve replaced two sets of LPF drivers running 10W WSJT on my K3/100. 
>> No more! Now I advance the power until the amplifier engages (~12W). 
>> Hopefully this reduces driver dissipation.
>> 
>> Dennis, K7FL 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Nov 21, 2019, at 5:15 PM, dgb  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the good info Keith - I quit using 12w yrs ago as one E'craft 
>>> tech told me after the 1st one blew.
>>> 
>>> Also heard from another that I could turn the fans on all the time which 
>>> should help as normally they are only on when you go to 13w and up.
>>> 
>>> Will play with them - t u 73 Dwight NS9I
>>> 
> On 11/21/2019 4:04 PM, Keith Trinity WE6R wrote:
 You can play with the Config Menu watt meter calibration high and low 
 numbers to get the switch-over point different.
 IE where the Low power amp (LPA) switches to 100 amp (KPA3). This happens 
 at 12W "indicated".
 The two Calibration numbers are for all bands!
 So; Go into config menu WMTR LP (below 12W) or HP (above 12W). (note 6 
 meters switches at 8W)!
 Make a note of both numbers so you can put them back!
 Extreme numbers to get the KPA3 to click in at lower actual power levels 
 would be to set both for 180 (max).
 You will have to use an external watt-meter to see what is going on as the 
 K3 internal watt-meter readout is all out of calibration now!!
 I just played with a radio and it switches over at about 7 watts with both 
 numbers at 180
 Have fun!
 Keith WE6R
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery pack not powering K2

[hawley, charles j jr]

I had my first battery last about 5 years until it wouldn't turn on the radio. 
It started to leak on one corner, so I was glad to get it out of there before 
it got on anything. Do you measure the voltage when the K2 switch is turned on? 
Mine was about 3 volts when the rig was turned on, but obviously dark.

























Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of oz6...@qsl.net 
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 5:56 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Battery pack not powering K2

Hi,



I hope someone can help me here. I have K2 with the internal battery kit.

I have used this radio with the battery for many years, but now I have a 
problem.

When I power up the radio with only the battery it is dead, no display nothing.

When I apply a PSU it works fine.

I have checked all the connections P3 (Aux) and the Int. Battery switch on the 
back panel is ON.

Anyway, nothing has changed since it last worked.

When I check the voltage on the battery terminals it says 10.5V. I get the same 
reading on the P3 connector, so power is reaching the radio, but the radio is 
not powering up.



Any suggestions?



Thanks

Robin

OZ6ABM/5P5R



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S

[hawley, charles j jr]

Not apoplectic, however somewhat sad. I really like, most of all, the modular 
aspect of the K3 line, (K2 as well). The K4 just reminds me of the typical ham 
radios of the past with the new display, although as a plus, the direct 
sampling. I suppose I could get into it, but I have been thinking that the 
K3(S) line will be just fine and satisfy me whenever I'm in the shack for some 
time to come. I hope to live long enough to want one. 
One thing I remember when I got the P3 how much room it had into it. I thought 
at the time that a perforated top cover and a speaker would be a good accessory 
kit for it. That hasn't happened...yet. Maybe some aftermarket enterprise would 
step up. 
I'm not done with the K3 line...

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 26, 2019, at 5:18 AM, eric norris via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Am I the only one apoplectic over the news of the discontinuation of the K3S? 
>  Or did I read the newsletter wrong, my brain being soaked with RF in the 
> shack, RX noise, Mix 31 poisoning, and the Non-Resonant Too Low Antennas of 
> Damocles over my head?
> 73 Eric WD6DBM, owner, The Last KX1
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] Radio clocks, internet and security!

[hawley, charles j jr]

You're old fashioned...

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 18, 2019, at 6:54 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Chuck and all,
> 
> How many actually use the clock in the K3, K3S, KX3 or KX2?
> I certainly don't.  In the case of the KX3 it is used to time the charging of 
> the internal batteries - good use.
> 
> I can see a ham without a watch or cell phone to want the rig to display the 
> time for logging, but for me, my good old Timex on my wrist tells me what 
> time to log.  The clock in my KX3 is more difficult to access than simply 
> glancing at my wrist!
> 
> I have never even set the clock in my K3 or KX3!  Nor do I feel a need to do 
> so.
> 
> As far as the K4 Linux software/firmware being internet connected, I have my 
> reservations about that.  I have enough stuff connected to the internet, and 
> someone will have to demonstrate the benefit of my ham radio being connected 
> to the internet in addition to my computers.
> 
> If connection of the K4 to the internet is to be done, I have concerns about 
> security and personal privacy.  Even Linux is subject to bad stuff from the 
> internet - it is not entirely secure, it is just that the number of users is 
> small compared to other OS versions and hackers just do not bother for most 
> cases.
> 
> When my refrigerator or microwave begins to listen in to my conversations, I 
> begin to worry about the BIG Brother consequences.
> 
> BTW, I do not have an Alexa or Siri device for those security reasons. I can 
> easily use a switch on the wall to operate a light switch and it is secure. I 
> can turn on my home theater or my computer AV application when I want to hear 
> music or view videos.
> 
> Call me old-fashioned, but I like to have control of my environment. The 
> Internet Of Things seems to be fraught with exposures and dangers that I am 
> not willing to accept.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/18/2019 2:03 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> Is a more accurate clock possible? I imagine that depends on available chips 
>> but it’s a common topic.
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Re: [Elecraft] Dual panadapter on K4 at Pacificon

[hawley, charles j jr]

If it’s there, it needs to be right for some folks. And they’re the ones I want 
designing my car’s airbags.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Oct 18, 2019, at 4:51 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:
> 
> 
> I've never understood the obsession with clocks and clock accuracy on the 
> K3/K3s/K4 series of rigs, yet it keeps popping up here from time to time.  I 
> would think that 98+% of the operations with these rigs involves the use of 
> computer logging programs, almost all of which boldly, conspicuously, and 
> accurately display the time and autolog it.  I could see the need for it on a 
> KX2 or KX3, but why is it such a big deal on the base stations?
> 
> Just curious.  I'm a long time K3 owner and I never use the internal clock.
> 
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
> 
> 
>> On 10/18/2019 1:18 PM, Doug Turnbull wrote:
>> Chuck,
>> Do you mean a 24 hour clock?   I too would like this.
>> 
>>   73 Doug EI2CN
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dual panadapter on K4 at Pacificon

[hawley, charles j jr]

Is a more accurate clock possible? I imagine that depends on available chips 
but it’s a common topic.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Oct 17, 2019, at 5:24 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> One of many K4 features we're putting the finishing touches on is the dual 
> panadapter display, which will make its debut at Pacificon. Please stop by 
> our booth this weekend if you get a chance.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Hum in TX Data Mode

[hawley, charles j jr]

I had a similar issue with a TenTec power supply next to a TenTec transceiver. 
The solution was to move the power supply.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Sep 28, 2019, at 12:35 PM, RIchard Williams via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Conrad,
> I had the same problem a few years ago when I placed my Alpha 9500 on the 
> left side of my K3S.  After much perturbation, I finally figured what the 
> issue was.  The power supply for the Alpha 9500 is on the right side of the 
> Amp, and the isolation transformers for the line in and line out are on the 
> left side of the K3 (K3S).  When in such proximity, the magnetic fields 
> interact, and induce hum when using line in on the Elecraft radios.   My 
> solution ended up being easy.  The transformer in my Alpha was an old type, 
> and I was able to switch it out with the new model with (I think) is a 
> toroidal core, and that solved the problem.
> Dick, K8ZTT 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put up a new 6m antenna mainly for EME and I was so looking forward to
> using my K3S. The RX is great, I run it in parallel with 2 other receivers
> and it works very well on EME. However try as I might I cannot get rid of
> some quite bad hum on the TX Audio. I am using USB and before you ask yes I
> have got a low impedance ground from the PC to the K3S although removing it
> makes absolutely no difference.  What did make a difference was moving the
> radio away from sources of magnetic fields such as monitors. However I
> cannot get rid of it completely. It also increases or at least changes when
> I put my hands on the radio. 
> 
> I have a few other radios located nearby and close to a monitor, pc or PSU
> and they do not suffer from this at all. Is this a common problem, is it a
> bad ground in the audio path internally or magnetic coupling into an audio
> transformer?
> 
> It is completely impractical for me to move my radios 10 feet from any
> magnetic fields. Short of wrapping the radio in mu metal I really do not
> seem to be able to fix this.
> 
> Any ideas? I have read and understood and followed Jim K9YC's advice and
> this works perfectly for my other 3 radios. I am really at a loss.
> 
> 73
> 
> Conrad PA5Y
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Lost Control of Front Panel Buttons

[hawley, charles j jr]

Try the restore to a previous configuration. No idea if it's possible to do 
this with a config...and did you try a reload of the latest version?

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 14, 2019, at 11:37 AM, George Johnson W1ZT  
> wrote:
> 
> Need some direction where to look.
> 
> My K3 seems to have lost control of the front panel buttons.  RF operation
> OK and VFO etc works.  Just no PB control.
> 
> Emailed Support but it is the weekend so I could use any direction of where
> to dig into the radio.  Front panel connections come to mind but any other
> suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> 
> George  W1ZT
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"

[hawley, charles j jr]

Yes, that came to mind here too. I figure that somebody will eventually plant 
beans and corn on the Bondville, IL site though.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2019, at 10:42 PM, Arliss  wrote:
> 
> Or even longer:
> 
> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UkbdbLQ-ofI/V4CWpqwJ9SI/E-Q/YtV82_PGUqg3j77n0OyOxp0A1LaL1-LowCLcB/s1600/crop-stonehenge-stones-set3.jpg
> 
> 
> 73, Arliss  W7XU
> 
> 
>> On 9/13/2019 10:15 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
>> Hi Chuck,
>> 
>> 
>> Its nearly impossible to hide those old Wullenweber arrays, even if they've
>> been dismantled for nearly fifty years
>> 
>> 
>> www.google.com/maps/search/bondville+rd,+scott,+il/@40.0492598,-88.3816964,440m/data=!3m1!1e3
>> 
>> 
>> 73
>> Frank
>> W3LPL
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"

[hawley, charles j jr]

I was in the radio direction finding group at the U of IL in the early 60's 
which had a Wullenweber site just west of Champaign-Urbana IL 120 antennas in a 
circle outside a screen supported by telephone poles. The locals had colorful 
ideas of what it was all about. You could listen to WWVH, Hawaii and WWV in MD 
separately on the same frequency by rotating receive about 180 degrees. Very 
impressive.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2019, at 7:46 PM, Jim Campbell  wrote:
> 
> We also had Elephant Cages later on. Funny no one has mentioned them. If you 
> want to see a real monster https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/FLR-9 Also known 
> as a "Wullenweber" or AN/FLR-9.
> 
> Jim -  W4BQP
>> On 9/13/2019 8:28 PM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>> Small world. I was in a similar line of work, for the Navy, using an R-390,
>> but I don't think we had Rhombics.  This was in the mid-60's
>> 
>> Lots of us in ham radio.
>> 
>> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>> Behalf Of Jim Campbell
>> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2019 17:21
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rhombic antenna "gain"
>> 
>> In the late '50s I was stationed at a field station in Northern Germany that
>> was monitoring transmissions from the 'other side'. We were at a former WWII
>> German airfield and had an antenna farm comprised of rhombics. I never
>> bothered to count how many there were but I estimate that there were more
>> than a dozen and they were in the order of 90'
>> above ground. I was a ham at the time (DL4AQ) but not active.
>> 
>> I believe that my K2 and a low 88' doublet hears better than would a rhombic
>> and a SP-600 from those days. I almost can't believe the signals I'm hearing
>> at the bottom of the sunspot cycle with said K2 and low 88'
>> doublet. The old days weren't the good old days.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Jim - W4BQP
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Low activity

[hawley, charles j jr]

The K3S is an incredibly compact and extremely capable rig. It has a handle on 
the side too. I don't quite see the rush to sell it if you buy a K4. 

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Bill Johnson  wrote:
> 
> Oh, maybe I should offer my K3S with ALL the options and the P3 for advance 
> ordering as well?  
> 
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
> 
> https://wrj-tech.com/
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Bill Johnson
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2019 5:33 PM
> To: Wayne Burdick ; rv6amark 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Low activity
> 
> And I have ordered one with all the goodies, so, Wayne,  get on it!!  :-)  
> Keep those elves a truckin'!
> 
> 72 & 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
> FT'er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc. 
> 
> https://wrj-tech.com/
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2019 2:46 PM
> To: rv6amark 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector ; Grant Youngman 
> ; Szabó István 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Low activity
> 
>> What is the BEST antenna to use with my K???   
> 
> Rhombic or Sterba curtain. Unless you're doing pedestrian mobile, in which 
> case...AX1 :)
> 
> 
>> September has been fairly quiet
> 
> Speaking strictly for all of us, the Elecraft Elves are so busy K4ing that 
> some aren't posting as often as usual.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Low activity

[hawley, charles j jr]

Good idea. A fellow ham I worked with once had a rhombic favoring the south 
pole many decades ago. He was a significant communications option for an 
expedition down there. It was a unique ham radio experience.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2019, at 3:42 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> Put up a Rhombic favoring the direction of your most wanted DX.
> It can be used as a multi-band antenna with lots of gain.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 9/13/2019 4:02 PM, David Haines wrote:
>> Well, the best antenna for me so far is the only one I have, a 51' G5RV 
>> Junior dipole 30' above ground fed with ladder line into my KX-3 with 
>> KXP100.  (I also have a Buddipole for remote operation.)
>> Given that you can never have enough antennas, what should I add?  My 
>> situation is perfect, with no houses except mine around, no power lines, and 
>> plenty of space.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 problem

[hawley, charles j jr]

So on page 38 in the manual, how are the jumpers configured? Mine is set up 
with Jumper across 2 and 3. When power is applied, the P3 turns on, but the 
power switch can still turn it off or on as long as power is present.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 7:23 PM, "n...@n1ix.com"  wrote:
> 
> I bought a used P3 from an estate. Unfortunately it doesn't power up.
> 
> I am sure that it has 12+ volts and that it is jumpered correctly.
> 
> I can hear the relay click when I press the power button.
> 
> Anything I may be overlooking? I have actually read and reread the manual.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave N1IX 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Waiting for an Accessory Sale at Elecraft...

[hawley, charles j jr]

There was one of sorts back 6 months or so. The KAT3A was on sale and like the 
procrastinator that I was I did not order it.
I figured there would be some accessories on sale again, but not so far. I have 
all the big stuff that I can use. How about an accessory sale?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for schematic and troubleshooting info on MFJ-223 VNA

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have an MFJ 226 and it seems fine. But a friend had that one too and opted to 
get a Rig Expert analyzer to replace it because he liked it better. 
Might be a chance to try one if your MFJ is dead.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 22, 2019, at 7:10 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> I already did what they said they would do: open it up and look for any
> parts that had come loose and resolder them. They don't build it and can't
> do much in the way of troubleshooting. It's also out of warranty.l
> 
> Wayne
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019 at 5:01 PM Gary K9GS  wrote:
>> 
>> I have one of these and I'd be interested in what you find out. Did you
>> transmit into it by mistake?I'm pretty sure MFJ doesn't manufacture these
>> but I would contact their customer service and see what they say.73,Gary
>> K9GS
>>  Original message From: Wayne Burdick 
>> Date: 8/22/19  6:11 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Elecraft Reflector <
>> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for schematic
>> and troubleshooting info on
>>MFJ-223 VNA My MFJ-223 VNA took a dive (cause unknown). The SWR
>> readings are very high regardless of load. Has anyone found a schematic for
>> this thing? The manual also mentions an MCU reset switch, but I'm guessing
>> that's outdated. No such
>> switch.tnxWayneN6KR__Elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Coax size requirements

[hawley, charles j jr]

While it’s important to use quality components with high power for safety, its 
also important to use quality components especially to minimize losses with low 
power. Just sayin’

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Aug 20, 2019, at 11:51 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Carter;
> 
> Welcome to the world of higher power. The information you have received from 
> others is very good. There is one other thing to watch for, it is something 
> that most hams who upgrade to higher power experience. When we operate at low 
> power, there are a lot of things we can get away with such as relatively poor 
> connectors, cheap coax and the like. When we add power, things change, and 
> many of these things start having problems. Things like arcing across 
> connectors (watch the elbows), whether at the antenna or along the path, 
> heating of components (low-power baluns are especially bad), and many other 
> things can give you fits. These will be noticed as faults, either in the ATU 
> or the KPA, and make you wonder what is going on. 
> 
> The answer is to use good quality components in your antenna path from the 
> ATU all the way to, and including the antenna. That will make the system, 
> including the KAT and the KPA much happier, and with it, your use of it. 
> 
> As for the KPA500, it can indeed run at 120V quite well. Both of mine (which 
> includes the first prototype) have run that way for many years. Both the KPA 
> and the KAT monitor their environment extensively, and will report issues if 
> they see any problems with the antenna system, usually in the form of high 
> reflected power. Many hams use the units daily. We believe you will enjoy 
> them as well!
> 
> If you have any questions, just ask!
> 
> 73,
> Jack Brindle, W6FB
> Elecraft Engineering
> 
>> On Aug 20, 2019, at 12:11 PM, Carter Craigie  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello friends,
>> 
>> I am contemplating buying a KPA500 amplifier/tuner Combo, and driving it
>> from my Elecraft K2/100 rig. I hope I would be able to do that!
>> 
>> From what I have read on eHam Reviews, it appears that I can run the
>> amp/tuner combo on 117v. from the convenient wall socket. Is that correct,
>> as well?
>> 
>> I cannot find any mention of the coax requirements, from the radio/combo
>> out to our 80-meter wire loop antenna. Right now, using only my K2/100 I am
>> able to use  8X coax.
>> 
>> Will I still be able to use that coax cable with up to 500 Watts output?
>> 
>> What other considerations do I need to make?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> 
>> Carter Craigie, N3AO
>> Blacksburg, VA
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Carter, N3AO
>> Blacksburg, VA
>> __
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Coax size requirements

[hawley, charles j jr]

I think the issue is to be sure the tuner powers up with or after the K3.
But, mine turns on first and then the K3 later with no issues. I have pretuned 
it and run it on manual if that makes any difference.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Aug 20, 2019, at 3:27 PM, Ken K6MR  wrote:
> 
> “The KAT500 can be {should be} powered from the radio 12V supply.”
> 
> 
> 
> Interested why this is true.  Can the KAT500 tell the difference between 
> Elecraft 12V and Generic 12V?  Seems odd.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran two KAT500s on generic 12V from a DIN rail power supply for 5 years.  
> Necessary because the tuners and the amps were remoted in a closet 20 feet 
> from the operating desk.  No problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Ken K6MR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
> behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 12:59:11 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Coax size requirements
> 
> Carter:
> 
> The KAT500 can be {should be} powered from the radio 12V supply.   I
> don't suggest a separate wall wart.
> 
> The KPA500 can be powered from either 120VAC or 240VAC, your choice.  It
> should drive on all bands with 20 to 30 watts output from the K2 to
> reach full 500 watts output from the amp.
> 
> As to coax, yes RG-8X is OK up to 30 MHz as long as the SWR is low.  The
> Belden Power rating is 1000 watts up to 10 MHz, 370 watts at 50 MHz.
> Loss is 0.9dB / 100 ft @ 10 MHz and 2.1 dB / 100 ft at 50 MHz.   These
> power ratings are matched conditions.
> 
> What is the SWR on your wire loop on the feed line for all bands?   Per
> Belden, the UL voltage rating is 300 V RMS.  Thus 500 watts at 50 ohms,
> i.e. 1:1 SWR, is 158 volts.  However, 500 watts into 500 ohms, i.e. 10:1
> SWR, is 500 volts.  So to answer your question, YES and NO, depending on
> SWR on the coax between the tuner output and the loop antenna feed point.
> 
> In general, R-8X is OK at 500 watts below 30 MHz.   From experience, it
> will get "warm" to the touch.  "Warm" is created by loss which is then
> heat generated from RF.  And that is RF which is not getting to the
> antenna.
> 
> Personally I'd opt for a balanced open wire feed to the loop and a very
> good 1:1 balun rated for legal limit or more at the KAT500 tuner output.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 8/20/2019 2:11 PM, Carter Craigie wrote:
>> Hello friends,
>> 
>> I am contemplating buying a KPA500 amplifier/tuner Combo, and driving it
>> from my Elecraft K2/100 rig. I hope I would be able to do that!
>> 
>>  From what I have read on eHam Reviews, it appears that I can run the
>> amp/tuner combo on 117v. from the convenient wall socket. Is that correct,
>> as well?
>> 
>> I cannot find any mention of the coax requirements, from the radio/combo
>> out to our 80-meter wire loop antenna. Right now, using only my K2/100 I am
>> able to use  8X coax.
>> 
>> Will I still be able to use that coax cable with up to 500 Watts output?
>> 
>> What other considerations do I need to make?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> 
>> Carter Craigie, N3AO
>> Blacksburg, VA
>> 
>> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ve never spilled. That would be an obvious caveat. But actually these buttons 
feel like the sealed surface mount kind.

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Aug 1, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Bill Johnson 
mailto:k9...@live.com>> wrote:

The KPOD is subject to spills etc. Just like a keyboard. Spills onto the pad 
can create issues.  Amazing no one has mentioned this potential cause.

Bill
920-421-1172


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> 
mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>> on 
behalf of hawley, charles j jr 
mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>>
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2019 9:15:41 AM
To: Richard Katsch mailto:rkat...@gmail.com>>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

Using the K3s utility, the macros fire off 100% reliably so it's the pod switch 
buttons I guess. Double triggering, not triggering, sending the wrong buttons 
macro. It's getting worse. Looks like the hardware is not up to the task.
I wonder if Elecraft has improved the quality of performance on this item. I 
have had two bad ones so far and this one is probably out of warranty. I guess 
it's worth sending it in for repair?


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu<mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles

________
From: hawley, charles j jr mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 8:26 AM
To: Richard Katsch mailto:rkat...@gmail.com>>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

Mine is also on internal power. The interesting thing is that it is so 
intermittent. Probably messes up about 2% of the time.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu<mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> 
mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>> on 
behalf of Richard Katsch mailto:rkat...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 1:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

I wonder how the K Pod is powered. Is it possible that an external supply
might be causing problems?
My new K Pod works fine on K3 s/n 0063 from internal power.

Richard Katsch
Vk2eik
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

Using the K3s utility, the macros fire off 100% reliably so it's the pod switch 
buttons I guess. Double triggering, not triggering, sending the wrong buttons 
macro. It's getting worse. Looks like the hardware is not up to the task.
I wonder if Elecraft has improved the quality of performance on this item. I 
have had two bad ones so far and this one is probably out of warranty. I guess 
it's worth sending it in for repair?


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: hawley, charles j jr 
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 8:26 AM
To: Richard Katsch ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

Mine is also on internal power. The interesting thing is that it is so 
intermittent. Probably messes up about 2% of the time.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Richard Katsch 
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 1:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

I wonder how the K Pod is powered. Is it possible that an external supply
might be causing problems?
My new K Pod works fine on K3 s/n 0063 from internal power.

Richard Katsch
Vk2eik
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Re: [Elecraft] [Way (OT)] Pedantic comment about metric usage

[hawley, charles j jr]

Hey! That’s my choice, Furlongs/Fortnight...

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 30, 2019, at 3:26 PM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> 
> At the risk of arousing Eric’s ire I tender the unit of measure in the most
> obscure terms.  Velocity in furlongs/fortnight, for example.
> 
> Hey, I’m on vacation.
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 30, 2019 at 15:59 Fred Jensen  wrote:
>> 
>> Yep, KMcs.  Even after Hz and it's metric extensions came along, those
>> who remember when the Holy Frequency was the world's party line still
>> used the more reverent Kcs to refer to it. [:-)
>> 
>> 73,
>> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>> Sparks NV DM09dn
>> Washoe County
>> 
>>> On 7/30/2019 8:56 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
>>> Oh, my. Does anyone remember "kilo-megacycles"? Guess we got that one
>>> fixed.
>>> 
>>> 73...
>>> Randy, W8FN
>> 
>> __
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> 
> -- 
> 72,
> Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
> Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer for Scouting
> Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
> *FN20is*
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

Mine is also on internal power. The interesting thing is that it is so 
intermittent. Probably messes up about 2% of the time.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Richard Katsch 
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 1:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

I wonder how the K Pod is powered. Is it possible that an external supply
might be causing problems?
My new K Pod works fine on K3 s/n 0063 from internal power.

Richard Katsch
Vk2eik
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

Company’s :)

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 28, 2019, at 11:59 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> Wonder if that “other companie’s” button pad works better?
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Jul 28, 2019, at 11:52 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> It’s kind of like switch bounce, for double repeats, but also does the next 
>> button, #5, after the #4 sometimes. When I had the #1 issues, I moved the 
>> popular function to #4. Working my way right off the Pod :)
>> 
>> Chuck Jack Hawley 
>> KE9UW
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
>> 
>>> On Jul 28, 2019, at 8:17 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have the latest firmware, and reloaded it. I also rewrote the macros to 
>>> the K3s. No help. Maybe I'll send it to Watsonville.
>>> 
>>> Chuck Hawley
>>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>>> 
>>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  
>>> on behalf of Wes 
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 1:37 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors
>>> 
>>> Make sure you have the latest firmware in the K3.
>>> 
>>> I had lots of trouble early on with my K-Pod and it took me recording a 
>>> video
>>> clip and sending it to Elecraft before they believed me (sigh).  Revised FW
>>> fixed it. That was some time ago and most likely you've upgraded, so this
>>> probably is a non-issue but one never knows.
>>> 
>>> Wes  N7WS
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 7/27/2019 8:51 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>>>> For some buttons, the Pod makes mistakes occasionally. Instead of sending 
>>>> the correct macro, it’ll send a different button programmed one...or send 
>>>> both the tap and hold ones. Mostly just happens with two of the buttons #4 
>>>> and #5.
>>>> My first pod messed up with #1 intermittently and Elecraft replaced it. 
>>>> But this one had a problem with #1 also intermittently.
>>>> And wisdom on this? I love the Pod anyway.
>>>> 
>>>> Chuck
>>>> KE9UW
>>> 
>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

Wonder if that “other companie’s” button pad works better?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 28, 2019, at 11:52 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> It’s kind of like switch bounce, for double repeats, but also does the next 
> button, #5, after the #4 sometimes. When I had the #1 issues, I moved the 
> popular function to #4. Working my way right off the Pod :)
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Jul 28, 2019, at 8:17 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have the latest firmware, and reloaded it. I also rewrote the macros to 
>> the K3s. No help. Maybe I'll send it to Watsonville.
>> 
>> Chuck Hawley
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>> 
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>> 
>> 
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
>> behalf of Wes 
>> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 1:37 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors
>> 
>> Make sure you have the latest firmware in the K3.
>> 
>> I had lots of trouble early on with my K-Pod and it took me recording a video
>> clip and sending it to Elecraft before they believed me (sigh).  Revised FW
>> fixed it. That was some time ago and most likely you've upgraded, so this
>> probably is a non-issue but one never knows.
>> 
>> Wes  N7WS
>> 
>> 
>>> On 7/27/2019 8:51 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>>> For some buttons, the Pod makes mistakes occasionally. Instead of sending 
>>> the correct macro, it’ll send a different button programmed one...or send 
>>> both the tap and hold ones. Mostly just happens with two of the buttons #4 
>>> and #5.
>>> My first pod messed up with #1 intermittently and Elecraft replaced it. But 
>>> this one had a problem with #1 also intermittently.
>>> And wisdom on this? I love the Pod anyway.
>>> 
>>> Chuck
>>> KE9UW
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

It’s kind of like switch bounce, for double repeats, but also does the next 
button, #5, after the #4 sometimes. When I had the #1 issues, I moved the 
popular function to #4. Working my way right off the Pod :)

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 28, 2019, at 8:17 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> I have the latest firmware, and reloaded it. I also rewrote the macros to the 
> K3s. No help. Maybe I'll send it to Watsonville.
> 
> Chuck Hawley
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
> 
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
> behalf of Wes 
> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 1:37 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors
> 
> Make sure you have the latest firmware in the K3.
> 
> I had lots of trouble early on with my K-Pod and it took me recording a video
> clip and sending it to Elecraft before they believed me (sigh).  Revised FW
> fixed it. That was some time ago and most likely you've upgraded, so this
> probably is a non-issue but one never knows.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> 
>> On 7/27/2019 8:51 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> For some buttons, the Pod makes mistakes occasionally. Instead of sending 
>> the correct macro, it’ll send a different button programmed one...or send 
>> both the tap and hold ones. Mostly just happens with two of the buttons #4 
>> and #5.
>> My first pod messed up with #1 intermittently and Elecraft replaced it. But 
>> this one had a problem with #1 also intermittently.
>> And wisdom on this? I love the Pod anyway.
>> 
>> Chuck
>> KE9UW
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have the latest firmware, and reloaded it. I also rewrote the macros to the 
K3s. No help. Maybe I'll send it to Watsonville.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Wes 
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 1:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

Make sure you have the latest firmware in the K3.

I had lots of trouble early on with my K-Pod and it took me recording a video
clip and sending it to Elecraft before they believed me (sigh).  Revised FW
fixed it. That was some time ago and most likely you've upgraded, so this
probably is a non-issue but one never knows.

Wes  N7WS


On 7/27/2019 8:51 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> For some buttons, the Pod makes mistakes occasionally. Instead of sending the 
> correct macro, it’ll send a different button programmed one...or send both 
> the tap and hold ones. Mostly just happens with two of the buttons #4 and #5.
> My first pod messed up with #1 intermittently and Elecraft replaced it. But 
> this one had a problem with #1 also intermittently.
> And wisdom on this? I love the Pod anyway.
>
> Chuck
> KE9UW

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[Elecraft] K Pod Intermittently Errors

[hawley, charles j jr]

For some buttons, the Pod makes mistakes occasionally. Instead of sending the 
correct macro, it’ll send a different button programmed one...or send both the 
tap and hold ones. Mostly just happens with two of the buttons #4 and #5.
My first pod messed up with #1 intermittently and Elecraft replaced it. But 
this one had a problem with #1 also intermittently.
And wisdom on this? I love the Pod anyway.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 27, 2019, at 10:25 AM, Mike March  wrote:
> 
> Anyone using the W2IHY EQ Plus with the K3?
> Thanks,
> Mike  K4QU
> 
> -- 
> Michael March K4QU
> 242 Clay Hill Dr.
> Winchester, VA  22602
> mikek...@gmail.com
> 540-662-4279 home
> 540-539-8500 cell
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy Load recommendation

[hawley, charles j jr]

Used Bird Attenuator is a good deal.

https://nm3e.com/AttenuatorSampler.htm

Then you’ll have a sample to plug into your counter or scope

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:59 PM, Art Nienhouse 
mailto:ka9...@gmail.com>> wrote:


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Problem

[hawley, charles j jr]

Is that something new? I’m not too surprised running it on 115 and starting at 
77. 
I’m on 240 dedicated circuit and starting at 82 v which loads to about 67v. I’m 
doubting that there is any hard fault.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 6, 2019, at 1:44 PM, Roy Koeppe  wrote:
> 
> Could a rectifier diode have gone open (as in it's now a half-wave circuit)? 
> If so the filter caps are at 60 Hz. Just a thought...
> 
> RoyK6XK
> 
> 
> I have a KPA500 with a low HV reading. It is on the center tap and AC voltage 
> is 115v No load and 110v full load. The HV goes from 77v NL to 56v FL (500W 
> output)  Is that something I should look into?Doug K6JEY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s USB failure?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Would a backup reload help here?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 23, 2019, at 2:32 PM, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> I hope this is a case of pilot error here, but I think my K3s might have
> suffered damage today and I need help in getting this back alive.
> 
> After I moved the radio out to the deck for Field Day everything worked
> fine. Moved it back inside and I have no USB connectivity to any software
> app that normally connects to. When I plug the USB-B cable into the USB port
> on the back of the K3s I hear the Windows sound (twice) indicating that it's
> connecting, the port shows up as it's supposed to in the device manager
> (COM-5 on the desktop, COM-3 on the laptop), but neither N1MM+, DX Lab Suite
> Commander, or the K3 Utility can find the radio. I'm at a loss to understand
> what could have happened here, but I'm completely dead in the water now. In
> the menu, RS232 is set up USB.
> 
> The sound card portion of the USB port is fine (I can get audio from the K3s
> into the computer, and generated .wav files play from the computer over the
> air. I just have no CAT control, either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Peter Dougherty
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] new dead K3s still not fixed

[hawley, charles j jr]

They call that "unfulfilled expectations". I find my live easier if I ask for 
what is expected but maybe not offered. 

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 19, 2019, at 5:33 PM, Oliver Dröse  wrote:
> 
> 
> Wouldn‘t you expect Elecraft to offer that on their own after all that 
> trouble?
> 
> 73, Olli
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mittwoch, 19. Juni 2019, 23:05 +0200 von li...@subich.com  :
>> 
>> Did you *ask* support for a warranty return/exchange?
>> 
>> Did you *ask* to speak with Eric and/or Wayne (the bosses)?
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> ... Joe, W4TV
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2019-06-19 4:53 PM, KD7PY wrote:
>>> elecraft knows i have a problem with it, just,spent 2 1/2 days trying with
>>> support.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ED
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

[hawley, charles j jr]

Interesting about the additional soldering and resultant noise reduction. A 
chart from the Indium Corp shows 63/37 solder to be about 11% of the 
conductivity of copper. I guess that's better than air though.

https://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedias/soldering-basics#chart
Microwaves101 | Soldering 
Basics
Click here to go to our main page on packaging. New for February 2019: here's a 
link to an update on lead-free solders, from Aerospace Corporation, from 
2011.In case you were wondering, the issues with lead-free solders have never 
really gone away. To put it in perspective, 88% of lead consumed in the United 
States is used in storage batteries, which are not subject to RoHS.
www.microwaves101.com



Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bob McGraw K4TAX 
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 10:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Terminal resistance

The company for which I previously worked designed and built recording
studio consoles.   In order to eek out every bit of noise, that is
achieve the lowest noise floor, it was necessary to crimp and then
solder the lugs on the power supply cables on both ends.  Crimping was
only OK and was done until it was discovered that also soldering the
lugs did lower noise floor a few dB. This leads me to conclude that
crimping AND soldering is preferred, leading to a lower resistance
connection.

For lightning grounding, joints and terminations, soldering alone is not
permitted.  Crimping is required.

Yes, lugs can not be soldered alone.  They must be crimped first and
THEN soldered.At the same time, some installations of aeronautical
equipment, along with NASA procedure, I do understand does indicate
sweating solder into the lug and it thereby wicking up into the stranded
wires makes for a "stiff" connection.   This connection is reported to
break under vibration conditions.   I've personally never experienced
such with ham equipment, although I've never carried any into space.  I
suppose there is merit to this directive.Perhaps you FAA and NASA
types can expand this thought.

I am also aware with power distribution systems, a.k.a TVA,  it is quite
common to use a crimp method to join wires.   These conductors  are
several thousand circular mills in size and are of many layers of
stranded conductors.  When properly and completely crimped by a
hydraulic crimp machine, the joint is void of space. If fact, having cut
one of these in half just to see for myself, it appeared as a solid rod
with no voids observed.  Thus the strands were compressed to that
degree.The center strand was steel as the messenger and the five
outer layers of aluminum were alternating in direction of rotation,
clockwise wound and counterclockwise wound.

In most cases, crimping connectors with a crimping tool which has the
correct die for the connector is noted to be satisfactory.  On the other
hand, I've seen many cables in various ham applications which were
installed using what ever was handy to mash the sleeve.   That is NOT
crimping.  Crimping does not distort the tubular diameter nor round
shape of the sleeve as the correct size die prevents distortion of the
sleeve.   A correct crimping tool puts a dimple in one side of the sleeve.

And now you know the rest of the story.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/16/2019 7:27 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
> * On 2019 16 Jun 18:50 -0500, Kidder, George wrote:
>> Interesting data, Don.  I wonder if there is any information about
>> resistance variations between soldered and crimped terminals.  One might
>> think that, with stranded wire, even a good crimp connection might not
>> solidly involve all of the strands, and might additionally deteriorate
>> with time since oxygen could get between the strands.  A good solder job
>> should wet the wire through and (additionally) exclude oxygen.  This
>> wouldn't be easy to measure, for sure, but these engineers are cleaver
>> people!
> For what it is worth, the company I worked for prohibited the use of
> soldered connectors for terminating bonding or power wiring.  Especially
> with regard to bonding, dissipating any lightning strike energy through
> a soldered connector could cause it to enough to melt the solder.  In
> doing some microwave site upgrades I did pull out a previous generation
> of bonding wiring that was soldered and some connectors had signs of
> being heated since installation.
>
> In my shack I use crimp connectors and a quality crimping tool with no
> problems.
>
> 73, Nate, N0NB
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Gold Pins

[hawley, charles j jr]

Mine had them at #4580.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 9, 2019, at 1:17 PM, mike stokes  wrote:
> 
> I am looking at picking up another K3.  Does anyone know what SN# Elecraft
> started using the gold plated pins ?  The owner has no idea.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -- 
> Mike Stokes
> KK9V
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Re: [Elecraft] New K1 Kit

[hawley, charles j jr]

Hey, I have a dumb idea. How about a K1 box with a KX2 inside. Sort of. 
Actually might be nice to have some room inside.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 7, 2019, at 10:38 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> While I appreciate the sentiments, I don't think we'd want to authorize a 
> clone of the K1. In addition to the copyrighted PCBs, there's a lot of IP in 
> the firmware needed to run the radio, band modules, ATU, etc.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 7, 2019, at 11:29 AM, Glen Torr  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Petr,
>>> 
>>> If their are lots of us interested we could do a replica. I do PCBs and PIC
>>> programming for a radio telescope (part time, I am an old fart).
>>> 
>>> Is this doable?
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Glen VK1FB
>>> 
 On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 at 8:16 pm, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS  
 wrote:
 
 Hi all,
 
 check the price of rare K1 on eBay. K1 goes still so extremely high (if
 some
 K1 is available) on the auctions that it definitely shows how K1 is wanted
 and valued even another radios like KX2, KX1 etc. are on the market! try to
 thinking with coffee in hands "why...?"
 
 K1 is on of the most quiet receiver at all and several time it listenning
 better then SDR radios with modern s/w features. Believe me, I have K3,
 KX3,
 K2, SST, Wilderness Sierra and few K1s and I am using all of them
 intensively so I know what I am talking about...
 
 I am pretty sure that there is much more then "just" thousand of hams ready
 to buy it but I do not believe that someone in Elecraft will spend time
 with
 K1 resumption. Most of parts is obsolete (PA, driver, T/R, relays, IOs etc.
 so it must be re-worked completey with new parts (not redesigned...!)
 and it is time consumtion with no long time business vision model.
 
 ...but just in case > I am in 997 to go. :)
 
 
 
 
 
 -
 73 - Petr, OK1RP
 "Apple & Elecraft freak"
 B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
 MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
 MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
 --
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Hum/Buzz

[hawley, charles j jr]

Readjust the toroid hold down? Maybe rotate it a bit. Just make a change of 
some kind...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 2, 2019, at 5:59 PM, John Merrill  wrote:
> 
> Probably has been discusses before but my KPA500 seems to have an excessive 
> amount of hum/buzz when transmitting. What should I look for?
> 
> 73, John N1JM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PowerPole connector

[hawley, charles j jr]

I use #10 all copper which just fits the 30 amp if you twist them really 
neatly. It takes several tries to where no strands get away.
We might warn folks about the copper clad aluminum that’s going around if you 
don’t read carefully.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 31, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 5/31/2019 10:32 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>> power pole with #12 wire about 3 inches long.  Then splice onto that with 
>> #10 or #8 wire for the rest of the run to your power supply. 
> 
> I use #8 stranded THHN and the larger pins, but cut enough strands of the #8 
> that it fits in the pins.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Handedness

[hawley, charles j jr]

I learned the cw paddles with my right hand. My friend W8RO suggested I switch 
to my not dominant left hand so I can write with my right hand. I flipped the 
wires and found that I was just as good with my left hand (no difference right 
to left). Something about the brain and learning, eh?

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 31, 2019, at 12:22 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Even being left handed, I have no problem using my right hand on the knobs.  
> That leaves my left hand free to do other things requiring a greater degree 
> of hand/finger coordination.
> 
> I like it the way it is.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/31/2019 11:42 AM, George Thornton wrote:
>> If Elecraft reflects things to get left hand orientation, does that mean all 
>> the letters on the front panel will be reversed?  Will lefties also need a 
>> mirror to read the labels?
>> Just a joke from a right hander.
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Re: [Elecraft] Location of VFO B on the K4

[hawley, charles j jr]

Hmmm...I'm envisioning a modular front panel where you move modules around, 
they plug into a common buss and then you label the modules' one line display 
with some macro data input to the radio. A bigger K pod with one line labels 
would be nice too. As long as we're dreaming...

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On May 25, 2019, at 12:00 PM, W0FK  wrote:
> 
> wayne burdick wrote
>> Hi Rick,
>> 
>> Good question. Based in part on a survey of potential users, we chose to
>> put the RIT/XIT knob at bottom right -- also a traditional location, one
>> that matches that of the K3/K3S/KX2/KX3. VFO B is less often used in
>> practice. That said, the radio is only 4.5" tall and both knobs are very
>> comfortably used in these locations.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
> 
> I had earlier posted my surprise that the VFO B tuning knob wasn't adjacent
> to the VFO knob. That's been a "typical" location for many years across many
> radios. Yaesu's FT1000D and FT1000MP Mark V, Ten-Tec Orion, Icom IC-7800,
> etc. From my perspective, the location in the lower right is more convenient
> for tuning VFO B (transmit frequency) with dual receive to locate where the
> DX station is listening in split operations. Granted, with a KPOD, the
> location of VFO B tuning becomes moot as tuning control is at my
> fingetrtips. But absent a KPOD, reaching up isn't quite as convenient and
> you can't rest your wrist on the desk to tune.
> 
> If I were designing the radio, I'd move the VFO B knob down to the lower
> right, use a larger knob, put RIT immediately above that, and move the 4
> buttons up where the VFO knob is currently located.
> 
> 73
> 
> Lou, W0FK
> 
> 
> 
> -
> St. Louis, MO
> 
> "The difference between stupidity and genius is that 
> genius has its limits." Albert Einstein
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's Deposit Policy

[hawley, charles j jr]

Why wouldn't the position in the queue go with the money? Elecraft could simply 
use their "gift" procedure to transfer ownership.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On May 25, 2019, at 8:53 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> Some years ago I was speaking with a colleague who I thought of then as 
> rather advanced in age.  I asked him about his plans for his next 
> post-retirement project, to which he replied, "Sonny, at my age I don't even 
> buy green bananas."
> 
> I am now approaching what he was then, hence a question about Elecraft's 
> deposit policy.  If I put a few $K down on a K4 to get into an early shipment 
> group, is my position transferable?  That is, when my shipment date comes and 
> if circumstances have changed, could I sell my slot to someone else and have 
> Elecraft honor that transfer?  Has anyone done this in the past?  Did it work?
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ll be interested in hearing what you think after you use a K4. 

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 24, 2019, at 7:00 PM, "hwhi...@maine.rr.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> Wayne and interested others,
> 
> Way back when, I bought a loaded K3. I believe the S/N was around 4K? It was 
> back in the day when almost every DXpedition was using K3's so it was 
> obviously the radio to own. (Around 2009?) It was at the top of the Sherwood 
> ratings. Owner's bragged, incessantly, about its Sherwood rating.
> 
> After a period of time I grew to really dislike that radio. The audio was 
> just plain awful and the man/machine interface was the worst I have ever 
> seen. I detest bar graphs. I suppose if you play at ham radio 8 hours a day, 
> seven days a week, the interface is "normal", even usable. For those of us 
> who might get on the air for an hour or two a week, the controls were a 
> mystery. Tap this button to do this, hold the same button for three seconds 
> to do that, the list goes on. NOTHING was intuitive. It did not help that it 
> was an incredibly ugly, too light and unsubstantial, radio. It's looks may 
> have been barely acceptable when first introduced but it aged badly, rapidly. 
> Over a ten year period it's price has become a real problem.
> 
> There were many, many questions on this reflector regarding the controls, the 
> same questions about the same controls, over and over and over again. That 
> should have been a very large hint that the controls should be massively 
> improved in any new radio.
> 
> I sold my K3 and moved on to the big Japanese three, ANAN, and Flex, over the 
> years. All had many, fairly easy to understand, controls. All were far, far 
> more usable than the K3. Both the ANAN and Flex service departments are as 
> good as Elecraft's.
> 
> Eventually I left the Elecraft reflector, and that is a whole other story.
> 
> Last week the K4 was announced so I rejoined the reflector. It sounded like a 
> really great radio. Sadly, I have concluded it will be a dud, mostly because 
> it is designed with the same philosophy as the K3 was, a small, compact, 
> easily transportable radio, "a hallmark of Elecraft transceivers", to quote 
> you, Wayne. From all that I have read, the controls will be even more complex.
> 
> Ham radio operators are an aging group. Some suffer from the "fat finger" 
> syndrome, others have vision problems, to name just two. The last thing they 
> need or want is a tiny radio with minimal controls, each of which serves two 
> or three or four or five purposes. They favor a radio that has many single or 
> dual purpose knobs. They want bigger screens, the K4 screens are too small.
> 
> I suggest you double the size of the radio and change your design criteria. 
> Enlarging the physical size would not be a huge cost driver. Remember who 
> your customers are.
> 
> And when the Flex 6700 kicked the K3 out of first place in the Sherwood 
> ratings in 2014, the Koolaid drinkers on this reflector were heard to say, 
> "People put too much faith in numbers". Hypocrisy is thy name. I haven't 
> stopped laughing.
> 
> This email pertains to only the second and third paragraphs of Wayne's reply 
> below.
> 
> I wish Elecraft well with the K4 but I really think your minimalist/too 
> complex way of designing needs to change. You've probably already guessed 
> that I won't be a customer of the K4 as currently proposed. And you really, 
> really ought to improve this reflector...
> 
> 73,
> 
> Harry K1RSA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 2:03 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector ; k...@yahoogroups.com; 
> elecraft...@groups.io
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 and Accessibility
> 
> Hi Buddy et al,
> 
> We've definitely been thinking about this. 
> 
> There's a paradigm shift going on in transceiver design, and we reached a 
> point where we needed to embrace it. This shift is not entirely aligned with 
> accessibility, as you know. I'll address alternatives in this email.
> 
> As for the K4 specifically, its user interface is dependent in part on use of 
> the touch screen. This was simply the only way to integrate an equivalent of 
> the K3S, P3, and all of the new hardware/software required to implement a 
> direct-sampling radio. The use of a touch screen allows context sensitivity 
> (physical overloading) for controls, making the K4 the equivalent of a much 
> larger radio without touch. The resulting compact size is still compatible 
> with portable use (4.5" x 13.5" x 11", 10 pounds, and power-efficient), a 
> hallmark of Elecraft transceivers.
> 
> Regarding accessibility, there are three possible approaches:
> 
> 1. The K4's entire complement of controls, both hard and touch, will be 
> represented by a set of "2-letter" commands. This API will be fully public as 
> it is for our other transceivers. Presumably external devices or 

Re: [Elecraft] Location of VFO B on the K4

[hawley, charles j jr]

Good answer. Reading that, I realize I don’t use B much.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 24, 2019, at 7:43 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rick,
> 
> Good question. Based in part on a survey of potential users, we chose to put 
> the RIT/XIT knob at bottom right -- also a traditional location, one that 
> matches that of the K3/K3S/KX2/KX3. VFO B is less often used in practice. 
> That said, the radio is only 4.5" tall and both knobs are very comfortably 
> used in these locations.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 24, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Rick Kourey  wrote:
>> 
>> First, let me say, I have never owned an Elecraft radio or amplifier but I 
>> have become interested in the K4 and the KPA1500 amplifier combination.  
>> 
>> One of the most surprising features on the K4 is VFO B is located at the top 
>> right side of the radio
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Re: [Elecraft] K-pod question

[hawley, charles j jr]

Plenty of room with out raising the rig.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Tony - KM0O 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 8:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K-pod question

I'm thinking about purchasing a K-pod. My K3 sits flat on a shelf, on its
four rubber feet without the bail extended. Will I have enough clearance
underneath the K3 to attach the K-pod cable, or does the front end of the K3
need to be raised?

Thanks and 73,
Tony   KM0O



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Re: [Elecraft] To improve customer service

[hawley, charles j jr]

Weekly updates are super. Probably wouldn’t cost more than $100 or so added 
onto the bill...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 23, 2019, at 12:18 PM, Don Schroder  wrote:
> 
> A good morning to all!
> 
> I am sitting in my recliner, drinking a cup of java, and doing what I seem to 
> do best, thinking,
> 
> I’m thinking; when I sent my computer into the Company for repairs (under 
> warranty), the Company did something I had never experienced before. They 
> “GAVE ME A WEEKLY UPDATE” every Friday by email or phone call, to tell me the 
> status of my computer! Every week, I knew what was happening to my computer, 
> (1) had they received it? (2) Were they working on it? (3) What have they 
> found? (4 ) What problems have they encountered?  (5) Is it fixed? (6) Have 
> they sent it back to me?
> 
> On April 8th, I sent my K2 transceiver kit to Elecraft, to look at an issue I 
> was having.
> 
> On April 10th, (2 days later) Elecraft received my K2. I know this NOT 
> because I was notified, but because I researched the tracking number.
> 
> On May 7th, (29 days later), Elecraft cashed my deposit check that was sent 
> with the K2. I know this NOT because I was notified, but because I researched 
> my banking statements.
> 
> On May 23rd, (today, 45 days later) I am beginning to think I may never see 
> my K2 again!
> 
> I’m thinking; wouldn’t it be nice if all Companies kept their customers 
> “informed” of a products status when sent in for repairs, like the computer 
> Company did?
> 
> I’m thinking; this would be a GREAT improvement to customer service!
> 
> Don, KE0PVQ
> Let the lava flow begin
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft / IC-7610 comparison

[hawley, charles j jr]

One thing that I am curious about with a transceiver is what it looks like 
inside with the cover off. Any chance of a picture like that of the K4 on the 
Elecraft site? When I think of my K3S, or look at it, the picture in my mind is 
all the insides as I put it together. I still remember vividly the view from 
the rear of my Drake 2B into the shiny copper colored chassis, tubes, and all.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Wayne Burdick 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 7:39 PM
To: pin...@erols.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft / IC-7610 comparison

> Charlie, K3ICH, wrote:
>
> OK, So why should I [pejorative deleted] my IC-7610 for a K4?


Hi Charlie,

The '7610 is an impressive and capable radio. We have one in our shop and have 
put it on the air.

It's a bit of apples/oranges comparison to the K4, though. Since you asked ... 
here are some K4 characteristics to consider:

* Controls -- The K4's UI is quite different, borrowing heavily from the K3, 
but with an infusion of versatility due to the 7" display. It has the widest 
available viewing angle and is very bright. (K4 tire-kickers at Dayton were 
extremely complimentary about the display, which was gratifying after 200 or so 
iterations on the concept drawing by yours truly.) There are three 
multifunction knobs (not just one), each mapped to a semantic group, e.g. 
"XMIT". Their functions adapt to the current operating mode, etc. On the right 
side of the radio there are three 400-count, ball-bearing drive optical shaft 
encoders, for VFO A, VFO B, and RIT/XIT offset. No need to multi-task one or 
two controls. Bottom line: ease of use. If you do get stuck, there's a built-in 
help system.

* Dynamic range -- The K4 is a direct-sampling, dual-receiver radio in its base 
configuration. But those in high-signal environments can add the dual superhet 
module to realize a 20 to 25 dB improvement in headroom (blocking dynamic 
range) over any radio that is direct-sampling only. This is the same delta as, 
for example, a K3S vs. any other non-superhet on Sherwood's list.

* Portability -- The K4 weighs only about 10 pounds, draws only about 2 amps on 
RX, and can run down to 11 volts. It will try to drag you off to a Field Day 
site or remote island if not bolted to your desk.

• Remote control -- The K4 comes with remote-control via Ethernet built in. One 
K4 can controlled by another, or by a tablet or PC. Eric must have demonstrated 
this 500 times at Dayton and I daresay he's getting good at it.

* Modularity -- We segregated the K4's modules in such a way as to facilitate 
easy update to units in the field if/when new tech becomes available. For 
example, we could quickly and cost-effectively incorporate a new ADC or DAC. 
Call it planned non-obsolescence. This the 20th anniversary of the K2, and the 
10th anniversary of the K3. Both are still shipping.

* Extensibility -- In addition to the HDR module, the user will be able to add 
a VHF/UHF module, which in turn could morph in the future. This philosophy 
extends to software as well, given the K4's general-purpose computing module 
[not Windows]. I like to think of it as our "app engine," limited only by the 
imagination of our software team and other talented contributors.

* External monitor output -- HDMI, not DVI. (To each his own?)

* Tuning aid -- The "mini-pan" is one of our favorite features of the K4. When 
you tap on a signal you don't just get a geometric magnification of the main 
panadapter's pixels; you get a re-sampled, high-resolution spectral display of 
as narrow as +/- 1 kHz (varying per mode). This is great for signal 
auto-spotting and left/right peak search. The mini-pan is per-receiver and can 
either be turned on automatically or by tapping either S-meter.

• IO -- The K4's IO is a superset of the K3's, meaning it comes with all of the 
analog and control I/O you might need as well as 4 USB ports, Ethernet, etc.

* Antenna sources -- There are up to 3 ATU antenna jacks and up to 5 receive 
antenna inputs.

73,
Wayne
N6KR






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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 AC Mains wire colours

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have in fact seen some home brew amplifiers wired with ground used as the 
neutral...and it was impossible to talk the owner out of it. It has also 
appeared in some of the schematics in the literature over the decades.

BTW, I think if instead of saying "phases", it would be less confusing to say 
two "legs" plus neutral for the single phase 240 vac coming into the house.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of K9MA 
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2019 9:28 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 AC Mains wire colours

Some equipment in NA is wired with both phases plus neutral, so that 120
V is available. Electric clothes driers and stoves, for example, which
have light bulbs and sometimes 120 V outlets. (You can imagine what
would have happened if 240 V bulbs had been required here.) However, at
one time the code did not require separate neutral and ground wires, so
the ground was used as the 120 V return. If the ground opens up, your
whole stove is suddenly at 120 V. Unfortunately, some of those are still
around, and seem to be sort of grandfathered, or just ignored.

Hopefully, there's no ham equipment wired that way!

73,
Scott K9MA



On 5/18/2019 19:16, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 5/18/2019 4:28 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 230VAC on 3 wires?  Never knew they did 3 wire 220V  I always
>> assumed it was still 2 hots and ground (plus an optional neutral).
>
> Two hots (phases) and ground is three wires. Single-phase power
> normally comes into a building in North America as two phases and a
> neutral. We connect a 240V load between the two phases, and a 120V
> load between one phase and a neutral. It's not unusual to feed a
> sub-panel with both phases, neutral, and ground so that the panel can
> feed both 120V and 240V loads. The key here is that loads must NEVER
> be connected between a phase and ground, ALWAYS between phases or
> between phase and neutral.
>
> You probably know that EU runs on 230/240V, wired phase, neutral, and
> ground.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] KE7X, Fred Cady, silent key

[hawley, charles j jr]

Very sorry to hear of Fred's passing.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Todd Gahagan 
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2019 3:31 PM
To: Elecraft Elecraft List
Subject: [Elecraft] KE7X, Fred Cady, silent key

I am very saddened to report the death  of my long time friend Frederick Cady, 
KE7X.  Many of you know Fred from his series of excellent manuals written for 
Elecraft products.  Fred passed away yesterday evening from heart failure.   He 
is survived by this wife Katie and daughter Elizabeth.

Todd, WA7U
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 vs SP4 speakers

[hawley, charles j jr]

And Collins S Line power supplies had folks mounting speakers in them. Seems 
like a market exists in that regard...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 16, 2019, at 9:57 PM, kc8wh.mh  wrote:
> 
> WayneThat's a good idea.The AC 4 power supplies for the Drake 4 line series 
> just fit inside the MS 4 speaker cabinets, which were the same size as the 4 
> line rigs.MikeKC8WHSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  Original message From: Wayne Burdick  
> Date: 5/16/19  10:31 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
> Re: [Elecraft] SP3 vs SP4 speakers Also: I’m hoping to save desktop space by 
> putting a 25-amp, 14 VDC power supply in mine. Anyone else interested in this 
> possibility? Other suggestions?Wayne N6KRelecraft.com> On May 16, 2019, 
> at 10:15 PM, Lyle Johnson  wrote:> > Case size.  The K4 
> is the same size as the KPA1500, which is slightly larger than the K3.  So 
> the SP4 height and depth match the K4, like the SP3 does the K3.> > 73,> > 
> Lyle KK7P> >> On 5/16/19 5:32 PM, Christopher Hoover wrote:>> What's 
> different between the SP3 and the SP4 besides the silkscreen ?> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Sold out?

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 16, 2019, at 1:34 PM, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> And pre-order quit working ..
> 
> Looks like someone let the cat out of the bag a bit too soon ..
> 
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091 KX3 #8342
> 
>> On May 16, 2019, at 2:31 PM, Peter Pauly  wrote:
>> 
>> They just took the web page down.
>> 
>> On Thu, May 16, 2019 at 6:16 PM Richard Thorne  wrote:
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[hawley, charles j jr]

I do mostly use good adapters to bnc, but really, as I tighten to snug, then 
wiggle, the barrel turns farther, each time I wiggle. I think the points nestle 
down in the grooves a surprising amount. Try it.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 1, 2019, at 1:36 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Yes but those are  Amphenol connectors.   Many "good looking" connectors  we 
> buy today have really poor plating and poor machining tolerances.   Thus all 
> "look alike" connectors aren't the same.   10 in a bag for $10..no 
> thank you.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 5/1/2019 1:32 PM, Michael Blake via Elecraft wrote:
>> I agree with your process Chuck. I have never read an Amphenol document that 
>> suggests anything other than hand tight.
>> 
>> Since the barrel is knurled and has no flats for a wrench it seems certain 
>> that a wrench was not what the designer had in mind.
>> 
>> 73 - Mike - K9JRI
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 2:19 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
>>> mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
>>> loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into 
>>> the grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. 
>>> At least 60 years so far this works...
>>> 
>>> Chuck Jack
>>> KE9UW
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
>>> 
>>>>> On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
>>>>> Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
>>>>> definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
>>>>> I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.
>>>> You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.
>>>>>  Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
>>>>> large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.
>>>> I'd call that equipment junk.
>>>> 
>>>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>>> 
>>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[hawley, charles j jr]

I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into the 
grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. At 
least 60 years so far this works...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
>> Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
>> definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
>> I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.
> You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.
>>   Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
>> large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.
> 
> I'd call that equipment junk.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KPA 500 HV Problem.

[hawley, charles j jr]

The pin diode bias supply is 270dc. That is what is failing. Has nothing to do 
with your mains.
Generally you should look at the last thing(s) you did before it failed. That 
is where you opened it up and did something. How did you determine that the HV 
was ok as is? Unplug anything...inadvertently...?
Take a look where you were inside. Something with the interlock micro switch?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Mike Streeter via Elecraft 
Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2019 2:52 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Fw: KPA 500 HV Problem.



   - Forwarded Message - From: Mike Streeter To: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎April‎ 
‎30‎, ‎2019‎ ‎02‎:‎50‎:‎12‎ ‎PM‎ ‎CDTSubject: KPA 500 HV Problem.
 My KPA 500 has been running ok for several years on 120 Volts. Today I turned 
it off on the back , unplugged it and opened the top because I thought I might 
need to change the voltage tap. I did not need to change it. I replaced the top 
cover, plugged it in and turned it on at the back. All ok, but when I turned it 
on with the front panel button the HV reads .1 in standby. If I tap OPER it 
shows a hard fault and "270V error" .The Manual says this is a 270V supply 
failure and to recycle the mains power KPA 500 after it is corrected. I tried 
recycling the power but still faults. I don't have any 270V power from the 
mains, if I did it would be 240ish, not 270. The fuse block on the back is set 
to 115V.Any advice would be welcome.Mike, WM5DX.

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Re: [Elecraft] Of words and such

[hawley, charles j jr]

I think that's incorrect...but little appreciated.

https://writingexplained.org/biannual-vs-semiannual-difference
[https://writingexplained.org/wp-content/uploads/biannual-versus-semiannual-meaning.png]

Biannual vs. Semiannual – What’s the Difference? - Writing Explained - Grammar, 
Style, and Usage - Writing 
Explained
When to Use Biennial. What does biennial mean? A third adjective, biennial, 
describes something that occurs every other year.This term is often confused 
with biannual due to their similarity in spelling.. Here are some examples of 
biennial in a sentence,. The San Francisco Giants had to forgo their biennial 
trip to the World Series in 2016.
writingexplained.org



Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Kevin Cozens 
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2019 3:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Of words and such

On 2019-04-26 1:29 p.m., Wayne Burdick wrote:
> Some English words have become completely useless in practice, like
> "semiannual" and "biannual," either of which can mean "twice a year" or
> "every other year." In fact if you look up the definition for one, you
> often see the other shown as a synonym.

The problem is due to people using words without understanding heir meaning.
There should be no confusion between semiannual and biannual. semi means
half, and bi is two.

If you want to really find out how messed up is the English language and the
definitions of words, start solving cryptic crossword puzzles. Some words
have three completely different sets of meanings.

--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   | "Nerds make the shiny things that
https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens | distract the mouth-breathers, and
 | that's why we're powerful"
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  |
#include  | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] Recommend a K3s foot switch

[hawley, charles j jr]

Those adapters will place a lot of torque on the back of the K3. A better idea 
is an adapter with connectors on each end of a wire.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Scott 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 8:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Recommend a K3s foot switch

Michael,
This adapter should work.  1/4" mono female to rca male adapter

https://www.amazon.com/CGTime-6-35mm-Adapter-Female-Converterr/dp/B07HD3Z5R1?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q=duckduckgo-d-20=xm2=2025=165953=B07HD3Z5R1

Sure it's a pack of 5 but if you look around I'm betting you can find it
in solo or twin packs.

Or if you really want a Heil foot switch then the FS-2 looks like it
would work.  Or as some one else mentioned, bust out the soldering iron.

73,
Scott
AD5HS

On 4/16/2019 8:05 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi guys! I searched around a bit nothing conclusive so thought I’d ask.
>
> I am needing a foot switch for my K3s which is also connected to my 
> KPA500/KAT500 setup.
>
> I purchased a Heil FS-3 however it has a 1/4” phono plug on it and the K3s 
> has an RCA jack (like a dummy I did not look at the back of the radio before 
> I bought it).
>
> So, recommend an adapter or I can take this one back to HRO and get something 
> else?
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
> KK6RWK
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Recommend a K3s foot switch

[hawley, charles j jr]

This will work, use one side of it. I couldn't find a mono version of it.

https://www.amazon.com/CGTime-Splitter-Gold-Plated-Extension-Adapter/dp/B07K7C1MSF/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=1%2F4%22+female+to+to+rca+male+adapter=106937=gateway=8-41
[https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/315nf6aCGvL._SX300_QL70_.jpg1zB]

Amazon.com: CGTime 6.35mm to 2 RCA Y Splitter Cable, Gold-Plated 6.35mm (1/4 
inch) TRS Female to 2 (Dual) RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Splitter Extension Adapter 
Cable (12Inch/30CM): Home Audio & 
Theater
>From The Community. Try Prime Electronics
www.amazon.com



Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Ken K6MR 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 8:24 PM
To: Michael Gillen; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Recommend a K3s foot switch

What we call a “foot switch” is a “sustain pedal” in guitar speak (the real 
market).  The standard is a 1/4” plug.  Buy an adapter.



Ken K6MR




From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Michael Gillen via Elecraft 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 6:05:09 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Recommend a K3s foot switch

Hi guys! I searched around a bit nothing conclusive so thought I’d ask.

I am needing a foot switch for my K3s which is also connected to my 
KPA500/KAT500 setup.

I purchased a Heil FS-3 however it has a 1/4” phono plug on it and the K3s has 
an RCA jack (like a dummy I did not look at the back of the radio before I 
bought it).

So, recommend an adapter or I can take this one back to HRO and get something 
else?

Recommendations?

Thanks,
Michael
KK6RWK

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Re: [Elecraft] Just wondering

[hawley, charles j jr]

I bought #1089 in March2000.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 14, 2019, at 10:49 AM, Bud  wrote:
> 
> I am interested in learning the year that the K2 was introduced into the 
> Amateur Radio market.
> And, what is the approximate year K2 s/n 2514 was shipped?
> Thanks to the Elecraft historian(s) that can answer my questions.
> 
> Bud …
> NY1Z
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Re: [Elecraft] BIZARRE OFFERING FROM MFJ

[hawley, charles j jr]

I take it this is a KAT3 clone, not a KAT3A improved version.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Wayne Burdick 
Sent: Sunday, April 7, 2019 11:28 AM
To: Doug Person
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BIZARRE OFFERING FROM MFJ

I've used many MFJ products and in have had very little trouble with any of 
them. For example, I make frequent use an MFJ-223 hand-held VNA -- it's 
versatile and does the job. I've also used their manual tuners, antenna 
switches, and portable/mobile whips. They have a very comprehensive product 
line that's really unique in the industry.

That said, I do have some suggestions for MFJ's engineering team on how they 
might improve their ATU.

Looking at the photo, I see that they used much smaller toroidal cores for 5 of 
the 8 inductors in the L network. This could result in excessive heating, 
especially on the higher bands, at full power into a worst-case match. We 
specified T68 sized cores to remain conservative based on extensive testing. 
Also, if you click on the photo to see the details, you'll see what appears to 
be very inconsistent hand soldering of the SMD components. While this doesn't 
necessarily worsen performance or reliability, it should be done in a way that 
inspires confidence in the buyer. (Easy for me to say, of course. We have the 
luxury of mass-producing these assemblies using automated pick-and-place 
equipment at our fabricator in Monterey.)

Wayne
N6KR



> On Apr 7, 2019, at 9:00 AM, Doug Person  wrote:
>
> MFJ has been a leader in automatic tuner technology for years. It was 
> probably a very simple engineering process for them to use what they have to 
> create a K3 tuner. You may have a dislike of MFJ products. But, that doesn't 
> preclude the fact that their tuners work very well. They have been selling 
> the K3 tuner for years. It doesn't seem the least bit surprising given the 
> modular nature of the K3 and the long history MFJ has with automatic tuner 
> technology. Maybe it's actually a complement to Elecraft that MFJ takes the 
> K3 so seriously.
>
> Doug --KJØF
>
> On 4/7/2019 10:26 AM, KENT TRIMBLE wrote:
>> Ozarkcon yesterday. Break-time.  Pile of MFJ catalogs on a table.  Took one 
>> back to my seat to kill time.  Opened it up to the second page and in the 
>> lower left corner is a box-ad with the following:
>>
>>
>> "MFJ ATU PC Board for Elecraft K-3 Rig.  MFJ-950K3 is a super clone of the 
>> KAT3 optional tuning board for the superb Elecraft K3 transceiver.  
>> MFJ-950K3 is a direct plug-in PC board for the Elecraft K3 10 Watt or 100 
>> Watt model. Covers 1.8 to 54 MHz.  This automatic antenna tuner PC board 
>> features an L-Match design and can match SWR up to 10:1. It handles 100 
>> Watts.  The ATU PC board has a second antenna port, and a sub-rx SMA port.  
>> All antenna ports are protected with gas discharge tubes.  Super sensitive 
>> relay allows excellent low current drain.  MFJ-950K3 is 4W x 3 1/2H x 1 1/4D 
>> inches and easily slides right into the K3’s tuning board slot. Weighs less 
>> than 1/2 pound.  Pick up this great accessory for your K3 today and save 
>> $$$!"
>>
>>
>> What in the world is that all about?  What possible market are they shooting 
>> at?  Who would put anything "MFJ" in anything Elecraft?
>>
>> Someone enlighten me!  Did I sleep through April 1st?
>>
>> https://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-950K3
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Kent  K9ZTV



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20

[hawley, charles j jr]

>From 
>Elecraft.comK1B20_20M
> Band Module   
>7.50

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bert 
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2019 11:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20

I recently bought a K1 with a 40/15 filter board and want to
change it to 40/20. Is there a kit available and if so what's
the cost?

Thanks!

Bert VE3NR


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Re: [Elecraft] Garage door interference

[hawley, charles j jr]

I did. Put a .1uF ceramic at the door opener across the connection of the wires 
going to the button by the kitchen door that operates the garage door. Assuming 
your opener is like mine...

Get Outlook for iOS


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on behalf of Tom Doligalski via Elecraft 

Sent: Monday, March 25, 2019 7:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Garage door interference


A while ago someone posted about putting a capacitor across the garage door 
opener to keep EMI out.

Well, I just successfully opened mine using my KPA500 on 40M.

Can someone repost? I really don’t want to search back through the dozens of K4 
posts!

Tom W4KX

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Purpose of this group

[hawley, charles j jr]

The first post wasn’t technical...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Mar 24, 2019, at 10:08 AM, Kevin der Kinderen  wrote:
> 
> A little flexibility in the content keeps it interesting. Delete key works
> fine. I probably delete 90+ percent of all the emails I receive from the
> few groups I follow. Maybe an odd thing but I like to follow the OT
> comments on the weekends.
> 
> If strict content control is a requirement consider a book, newspaper or
> magazine and skip the editorials and opinion columns. They usually stay on
> topic and don't allow the conversation to stray.
> 
> OT stuff has a pretty short life here. Apparently not short enough for some.
> 
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 24, 2019 at 10:14 AM W2xj  wrote:
>> 
>> Nor do I but I think this group is excessively over moderated. OT
>> discussions are usually the most interesting but causes the moderator to
>> have issues.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Mar 24, 2019, at 9:57 AM, Roger D Johnson 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have no interest in most of the technical discussions.
>>> 
>>> Roger N1RJ
>>> 
 On 3/24/2019 8:40 AM, Bill wrote:
 
 Am I correct that this is a technical group? Or, is posting space to be
>> taken up by non-technical discussions of which many users have no interest?
 Bill W2BLC owner/user
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Why are the batteries internal to the KX3?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Probably months. I have been charging it with the KXBC3 this week a couple 
times about 3 hours each time. The batteries do stay up to around 10 volts even 
for more than a couple months. Interesting option to use the KX2 battery. Might 
be a plan.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 6:07 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Why are the batteries internal to the KX3?

Chuck,

How long are you "not using" the KX3?  If the time is not several weeks,
the batteries can stay in.  For battery maintenance, if you have the
KXBC3 option installed, and Low Self Discharge NiMH batteries installed,
just connect to a power source with enough voltage and do a maintenance
charge on the batteries every couple weeks.

You can always remove the batteries and use an external power source.
Of course, if you have the KXBC3 option, the RTC will not keep time with
the batteries removed.

The KX2 internal battery pack can be used external to the KX3 - just
plug it in.  Get the KXBC2 to charge the KX2 battery pack.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 6:22 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> I don't like to disassemble the KX3 to take out the batteries when not using 
> or to do battery maintenance.
> I would rather have a slim case with the same rectangular outline as the KX3 
> that attaches to the rear panel and just plugs into the KX3 thru the external 
> DC input.
> Has anyone done that as an accessory product?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] New KSYN3A in K3 requires 2 of them if you have the sub receiver?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ok, thanks for the info. I just wondered what the consequences would be. I can 
imagine why they would have to be the same to sync the same.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 5:59 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New KSYN3A in K3 requires 2 of them if you have the sub 
receiver?

Chuck,

If you want the K3 to power up without errors and work properly, the
synthesizers must be the same.
You can always remove the KRX3 and operate with one synthesizer.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 6:27 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> That was sort of my question, why to the synthesizers have to be the
> same? What if they are not? What would happen if they were not the
> same? Something bad...not work at all?
>
> Chuck Hawley
>  c-haw...@illinois.edu
>

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[Elecraft] Why are the batteries internal to the KX3?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I don't like to disassemble the KX3 to take out the batteries when not using or 
to do battery maintenance.
I would rather have a slim case with the same rectangular outline as the KX3 
that attaches to the rear panel and just plugs into the KX3 thru the external 
DC input.
Has anyone done that as an accessory product?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] New KSYN3A in K3 requires 2 of them if you have the sub receiver?

[hawley, charles j jr]

That was sort of my question, why to the synthesizers have to be the same? What 
if they are not? What would happen if they were not the same? Something 
bad...not work at all?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 5:24 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New KSYN3A in K3 requires 2 of them if you have the sub 
receiver?

Chuck

Normal operation (not Diversity) with the SUB on needs a synthesizer for
each receiver.  VFO A and VFO B must tune independently, and that
requires one for each VFO.

You cannot mix synthesizers, they must both be the same.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2019 6:09 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> Why do you need two new KSYN3As if you have both receivers? What if you don/t 
> need to do diversity reception?
>
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[Elecraft] New KSYN3A in K3 requires 2 of them if you have the sub receiver?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Why do you need two new KSYN3As if you have both receivers? What if you don/t 
need to do diversity reception?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] How to access fuse block?

[hawley, charles j jr]

From: hawley, charles j jr
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:50 AM
To: DAN REID; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: How to access fuse block?

You will need someone to visually see the correct selected mains voltage and 
fuse ratings to complete this job.

The instructions say to face the line cord area and with the line cord on the 
left, feel for the slot on the right and pry it up with a small screwdriver to 
open up the fuse area. then prying from the same side, pry the fuse block 
straight  out completely. The 6 amp fuses are for 240 vac and the 12 amp fuses 
for the 120 vac. The fuses are inserted with the springy end toward the rear of 
the fuse holder when it is reinserted. The fuse holder will have to be rotated 
180 degrees vertically depending on the desired mains voltage selected. The 
correct mains voltage should appear on the right side of the fuse holder block 
and be visible in the cover window when it is pressed back closed. As you 
reinsert the fuse holder press the springy ends of the fuses into the block 
with your fingers so that the block can be started into the fuse holder cavity. 
The fuse holder is inserted all the way so that it is pressed in flush with the 
area it is inserted into. Then push close the cover clos
 ed.



Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of DAN REID 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 10:47 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] How to access fuse block?

Greetings,
Recently purchased kpa-500 and need to know how to access fuse block to insert 
fuse.  Configuration not userfriendly for the blind.  Any directions would be 
appreciated.  Thanks, Dan

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] I'm a new Father of a KPA1500!

[hawley, charles j jr]

How about a summer version?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Mike Flowers 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 12:35 PM
To: j...@kk9a.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I'm a new Father of a KPA1500!

And what’s the latest firmware for the hat?

-- Mike Flowers, K6MKF, NCDXC - "It's about DX!"

> On Mar 16, 2019, at 10:31 AM,   wrote:
>
> I have a two year old Elecraft hat, are there any upgrades for that?
>
> John KK9A
>
> Jack Brindle wrote:
>
> Ronnie;
>
> Congratulations. Now before you put it on the air, be sure to upgrade it to
> the latest firmware. A lot has changed since May 2018, and we have made a
> lot of improvements. In fact the latest release is an important one for your
> amp. Also, make sure the K3 has the latest firmware so that it talks to the
> KPA1500 properly.
>
> So, upgrade, then enjoy your amplifier!
>
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
>
>
>> On Mar 16, 2019, at 9:25 AM, w5sum at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>  I like Elecraft.. even though I had to buy the hat LOL
>
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Re: [Elecraft] I'm a new Father of a KPA1500!

[hawley, charles j jr]

It's a nice high quality hat. I got mine in a product deal, but the price is 
well within the range for high quality baseball caps.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of w5...@comcast.net 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] I'm a new Father of a KPA1500!

I just purchased KPA-1500 S/N 0190, from N5FH. Mr. Floyd gave me a great deal 
on it.. considering it has not even had one second of operation. Floyd received 
this from Elecraft in May of 2018.

I’m looking forward to getting it hooked to my K3 in the next day or so!

YIPPEE!

Ronnie W5SUM

K-3, KX2, KX3 Owner

yeah.. I like Elecraft.. even though I had to buy the hat LOL

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Re: [Elecraft] TX Gain Calibration Fails on 6 meters

[hawley, charles j jr]

I had the 50 MHz gain cal fail with the initial build of my K3s. Don't remember 
which power. I repeated the cal several times and one time it passed. I left it 
there. Not anxious to try it again.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Frank via Elecraft 
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 12:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] TX Gain Calibration Fails on 6 meters

I purchased Elecraft K3S S/N 11672 in August 2018.  The build was completed in 
November 2018.  At that time all the tests and calibrations were completed 
successfully.

Now the TX Gain Calibration fails on Low Power and High Power on 50 MHz. only.

Page 67 of Elecraft K3S owners manual TXGN Description states LP 0-12W and
HP 13-120W.

On 160-10 meters I hear the relay switch from LP to HP amplifier when the power 
adjustment is increased from 12 to 13W as described.

On 6 meters the relay switches from LP to HP amplifier when the power is 
adjusted from 8 to 9W.

The error message states “TX Calibration failed because Transmit Power did not 
reach the expected value.”

The TX calibration is performed per the instructions into a proper 50 ohm dummy 
load.

I submitted this to Elecraft Support last week but have not received a 
response, so I thought I would ask the group for ideas.

Thanks in advance.

Frank
K6FW
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Re: [Elecraft] Who's your favorite Elecraft Elmer?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I am going to recommend Mike Blake K9JRI. He is an excellent diagnostician and 
understands a schematic better than most folks. He’s also an experienced 
networking engineer and administrator which goes a long way to solving some of 
the issues that seem hardware based at first.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Mar 12, 2019, at 12:15 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> elecraft dot com.
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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

[hawley, charles j jr]

Put a ceramic .1 uF across the connector on the door opener where the wire to 
the button by the kitchen door comes from.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Robert Sands 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 4:32 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

my garage door opens with only 500 watts. fun reminder about RF capture.

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, 2:20 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Three things:
>
> (a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.
>
> (b) ARRL Antenna book -  contains everything you need to know and then
> some.
>
> (c) Grounding and Bonding,  by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication -
> MANDATORY reading.
>
> And of course one must visit the contents of these books frequently
> along with each manual that came with the product. RTFM
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 3/11/2019 3:07 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
> > About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What
> to expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even
> basic things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work
> fine at 100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our
> stations piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power
> levels without failing or causing problems.
> >
> > Al  W6LX
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 bias adjust

[hawley, charles j jr]

The more answers I get, the more I fit into the first group :)

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 7, 2019, at 1:21 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> 
> There's two kind of folks;   Those that know what they are doingand 
> those that think they know what they are doing. So which group are you in?
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: AW: K3 KPA3 bias adjust

[hawley, charles j jr]

Could you be mistaken on my procedure? The 1 amp plus or minus is typical with 
three K3s es that I know of. There are two devices and two trim pots.

This instruction is only for one device since he says "the BIAS pot" I 
believe...

" If there is much more current than this, set the BIAS pot to minimum
 (fully counter clockwise). Then tap XMIT (not TUNE) and note what the
current is in VFO B's readout. Slowly turn up the BIAS pot until you see
400-500mA more current that was seen with the BIAS pot at minimum."

I am looking at the total current accessible from DISP and read out on the 
front panel. First I go to the LPA only, read the total current drawn by the 
rig under XMIT SSB(no modulation) and then engage the KPA by turning up the 
power knob and I subtract the first reading from the second. I get about 1.05 
amps.
Am I close to knowing the total current into the KPA this way?

I feel that this important knowledge about how to set up the amp is fuzzy or 
not well known...the why I asked the question.

Thanks for the replies!!

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2019 12:10 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Mike Harris
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: AW: K3 KPA3 bias adjust

Chuck,

The instruction cited was for a 400-500 ma rise TOTAL (not per device).
So I conclude your bias is set too high or there is a problem in the
bias circuit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/7/2019 9:31 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> Thanks for the info. Using xmit for the low power amp and then going to the 
> high power amp shows a difference of 1.05A. So my devices are showing about 
> 500+ ma each. In the ball park.
> Thanks so much for the reply.
>
> Chuck Hawley
>   c-haw...@illinois.edu
>
>   Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>   aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
> behalf of Mike Harris via Elecraft 
> Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2019 5:43 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: AW: K3 KPA3 bias adjust
>
> Hi,
>
> Forwarded a 2009 email exchange for your info. I have NOT tried this so
> use with care and at your own risk.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike VP8NO
>
>
>  Forwarded Message 
> Subject: AW: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 bias adjust
> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 19:46:55 +0100
> From: Koppendorfer Klaus 
> To: Jan Erik Holm 
> CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>
> Locate the BIAS pot at the front of the KPA3, between the heat sink and
> the KPA3 shield. Note what the display current is in the VFO B readout
> when you tap the Display button and turn the VFO B knob to the current
> readout. In RX, it should be 1.0A or so.   In XMIT (not TUNE), it should
> be about 1.90 to 2.0A when the Power knob is set to 12w or above so the
> KPA3 is made active (but there is no RF output since XMIT is used). Or
> you can press the PTT button but do not speak.
>
> If there is much more current than this, set the BIAS pot to minimum
> (fully counter clockwise). Then tap XMIT (not TUNE) and note what the
> current is in VFO B's readout. Slowly turn up the BIAS pot until you see
> 400-500mA more current that was seen with the BIAS pot at minimum.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: AW: K3 KPA3 bias adjust

[hawley, charles j jr]

Thanks for the info. Using xmit for the low power amp and then going to the 
high power amp shows a difference of 1.05A. So my devices are showing about 
500+ ma each. In the ball park.
Thanks so much for the reply.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Mike Harris via Elecraft 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2019 5:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: AW: K3 KPA3 bias adjust

Hi,

Forwarded a 2009 email exchange for your info. I have NOT tried this so
use with care and at your own risk.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


 Forwarded Message 
Subject: AW: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 bias adjust
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 19:46:55 +0100
From: Koppendorfer Klaus 
To: Jan Erik Holm 
CC: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

Locate the BIAS pot at the front of the KPA3, between the heat sink and
the KPA3 shield. Note what the display current is in the VFO B readout
when you tap the Display button and turn the VFO B knob to the current
readout. In RX, it should be 1.0A or so.   In XMIT (not TUNE), it should
be about 1.90 to 2.0A when the Power knob is set to 12w or above so the
KPA3 is made active (but there is no RF output since XMIT is used). Or
you can press the PTT button but do not speak.

If there is much more current than this, set the BIAS pot to minimum
(fully counter clockwise). Then tap XMIT (not TUNE) and note what the
current is in VFO B's readout. Slowly turn up the BIAS pot until you see
400-500mA more current that was seen with the BIAS pot at minimum.

73
OE6KYG
KX1 244
K2 1331
K3 115


> -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
> Von: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
> boun...@mailman.qth.net] Im Auftrag von Jan Erik Holm
> Gesendet: Samstag, 03. Jänner 2009 19:35
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 bias adjust
>
> Thanks Ron but I knew this already.
>
> Probably have to write to K3support and ask,
> however I´m very surprised nobody could answer
> on the reflector.
>
> Jim SM2EKM
> --
> Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> > Hello Jim:
> >
> > That pot, along with all the other trimmers in the K3, is adjusted at
> the
> > factory. There are specific cautions against touching any of them in the
> > field; all field adjustments are done in firmware.
> >
> > If you have a problem with the KPA3, suggest you post a message to
> > k3supp...@elecraft.com. If an adjustment is needed that can be done in
> the
> > field, one of the fellows there can give you specifics.
> >
> > Ron AC7AC
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jan Erik Holm
> > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 6:55 AM
> > To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 bias adjust
> >
> > I find nothing about it in any manual. R11 on KPA3
> > I guess. What are the specifications for the bias
> > adjust?
> >
> > 73 Jim SM2EKM

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3(A) Extender Board for adjusting the output devices bias...?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ok. What are they at the factory?

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Mar 6, 2019, at 7:02 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 3/6/2019 3:11 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> Or again, what are the alignment adjustments for these amplifiers?
> 
> There are none. Everything is pre-tuned and tested at the factory.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3(A) Extender Board for adjusting the output devices bias...?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Licensed amateur radio operators should either know what they are doing or know 
not to do it. One could only hope...but restricting technical learning is not 
the road to take.

Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Mar 6, 2019, at 6:43 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> I suspect that Elecraft would rather we didn’t have such a control. 
> 
> Can you imagine the tech support nightmare if we started turning all the 
> slotted screws “Tight to the right”!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Mar 6, 2019, at 6:11 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone investigated getting/creating an extender board to enable 
>> adjusting the output device bias?
>> If I had such a board, then what would I be looking at to properly adjust 
>> the bias? Or, what is the idling requirement for both KPA3(A) amplifiers?
>> Or again, what are the alignment adjustments for these amplifiers?
>> 
>> Chuck Hawley
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>> 
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
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>> 
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Has anyone investigated getting/creating an extender board to enable 
>> adjusting the output device bias?
>> If I had such a board, then what would I be looking at to properly adjust 
>> the bias? Or, what is the idling requirement for both KPA3(A) amplifiers?
>> Or again, what are the alignment adjustments for these amplifiers?
>> 
>> Chuck Hawley
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>> 
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
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> 
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[Elecraft] KPA3(A) Extender Board for adjusting the output devices bias...?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Has anyone investigated getting/creating an extender board to enable adjusting 
the output device bias?
If I had such a board, then what would I be looking at to properly adjust the 
bias? Or, what is the idling requirement for both KPA3(A) amplifiers?
Or again, what are the alignment adjustments for these amplifiers?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] RIT switch number?

[hawley, charles j jr]

45

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Mark Pride via Elecraft 
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2019 7:32 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] RIT switch number?

When I setup a command (via N1MM) to turn on/off the RX antenna selection, it 
was identified as SWT 25, what is the SWT # for the RIT?  Want to toggle the 
RIT on/off in the same way, via a function key.

Regards,

 Mark, K1RX



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failed!

[hawley, charles j jr]

I never wrench. I just wiggle the connector as I tighten it and it tightens 
down into the v grooves tightly. Almost have to use a pliers to unscrew it.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Drew AF2Z 
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2019 5:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failed!

FWIW, I use NO-OX-ID contact grease on my PL259 connectors. This allows
very tight snugging by hand, no need of wrenching.

During lightning season I frequently connect/disconnect my rig and tuner
cables. The fine film of lube on the connector threads makes a big
difference. Without it? A real PITA, not to mention wear and tear on the
the SO-239's.

73,
Drew
AF2Z





On 02/16/19 14:08, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> I agree with you re PL-259s. I follow best practices in this regard. 
> Quarter-turn with channel-locks after finger tight, Amphenol 83-1SP, 
> assembled correctly, with cables swept by a TDR.
>
>   - pjd
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2019 12:39 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; wrayplace 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failed!
>
> Do not trust PL-259 connectors installed only "finger tight". Today many of 
> those PL-259 connectors "look good" but are really poor quality connectors.   
>  ALWAYS snug the PL-259's with a pair of 4" channel lock pliers.   You'd be 
> amazed how many strange issues will go away.
>
> Not saying this is or was the cause of failure, but I've seen it and 
> experienced it too many times.
>
> Also, for other reasons, I run the ALC from my KPA500 to my K3S. Again, 
> another issue of concern resolved.
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 2/16/2019 10:13 AM, Dave wrote:
>> His radio blew one final while driving the KPA1500 in the fall.
>>
>> Now his amp blew one LDMOS.
>>
>> I’ve been to Peter’s house and used a TDR to check all of his antennas, 
>> cabling, and switching. Cable connectors replaced last year.
>>
>> I agree it is good idea to check everything again. Looking at the amp fault 
>> log today did not show signs of anything arcing
>>
>> Dave wo2x
>>
>> Sent from my waxed string and tin cans.
>>
>>> On Feb 16, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Mark Goldberg  wrote:
>>>
>>> It's been said there are no coincidences. Have you checked your coaxes / 
>>> connectors? I agree that protection built in should not allow radios to 
>>> blow finals, but this sounds like too much of a coincidence with two 
>>> different radios blowing to not be an external intermittent connection. Try 
>>> wiggling all the cables with low power. Unfortunately, sometimes a problem 
>>> will only show up as arcing at high power. Is there another HAM near you 
>>> with a powerful amp and antenna close to yours?
>>>
>>> Best of luck,
>>>
>>> Mark
>>> W7MLG
>>>
>>>
 On Sat, Feb 16, 2019 at 8:50 AM  wrote:
 Exact same thing happened to my K3s in October, now my KPA-1500. Yeah, So
 done here. Once repaired and confirmed working it will be up for sale. 
 Going
 back to a tube amp after this.

- pjd

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  
 On
 Behalf Of Paul Baldock
 Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2019 10:28 AM
 To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failed!

 It sounds like one of the output devices have failed. Half power out is
 usually the indicator. A number here have reported this happening.
 It would be nice to know why this problem is occurring and if Elecraft are
 working on a fix.

 - Paul

 At 07:10 AM 2/16/2019, rocke...@gmail.com wrote:
> I talked to Peter on the phone. He has no bias current when amp is
> transmitting with no power applied (key on SSB without talking. He is
> reading 54 volts and has tried power cycling amp from power supply
> switch and reseated all cables. Definitely BAD distortion on SSB (we
> are close enough to hear each other). Looks like one RF device let
> loose and it is dragging down the bias voltage. That is my guess.
>
> Dave wo2x
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>  On Behalf Of Wes
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2019 9:49 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 failed!
>
> I think a two-tone test is the best evaluation tool..  The generator is
> built into the K3 if you have another receiver that you can use to
> listen to the amp output.  I use an SDR-IQ which is a very nice tool
> for this but any other SDR would do.
>
> Sorry for your pain.
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
> On 2/16/2019 7:28 AM, li...@w2irt.net wrote:
>> I was operating in the ARRL-CW contest this morning and on 20m, with

Re: [Elecraft] TRS connectors - Heil Foster adapter

[hawley, charles j jr]

Right! I did end up buying a couple of Heil "Replacement" Foster 8 pin Plugs 
from DX Engineering. They, by the way, are excellent plugs. Much higher quality 
than the run of the mill that one finds at hamfests. And I made my own adapter.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 12, 2019, at 9:43 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> The solution is easy (in my mind).  Just plug the TRS plug into the K3/K3S 
> rear panel mic jack.  That jack is a stereo type, but the ring is not 
> connected to anything.  No adapter required.
> 
> If you want to use the front panel 8 pin Foster jack, you will have to build 
> you own adapter.
> 
> All microphones that are designed for computer (gaming) use have a TRS plug - 
> but the tip and ring are wired together.  That includes the much used CM500 
> headset and many others.  Yes, when used with Heil adapters, they will not 
> work because the ring is shorted to the shell.  The Heil adapters are 
> designed for mono plugs normally used on the Heil headsets.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 2/12/2019 9:41 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> I investigated the Heil Foster adapter and the shorted ring-sleeve is inside 
>> the 1/8 inch phono jack. Not in the easily fixed Foster plug. So it cannot 
>> be fixed...reasonably. Why short it making the adapter unusable for the 
>> excellent and reasonably priced gamer headsets?
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Re: [Elecraft] TRS connectors - Heil Foster adapter

[hawley, charles j jr]

I investigated the Heil Foster adapter and the shorted ring-sleeve is inside 
the 1/8 inch phono jack. Not in the easily fixed Foster plug. So it cannot be 
fixed...reasonably. Why short it making the adapter unusable for the excellent 
and reasonably priced gamer headsets?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Robert Rennard via Elecraft 
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2019 6:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] TRS connectors - Heil Foster adapter

Chuck, KE9UW wrote =

// You cannot use Heil's adapter for the front panel Foster 8 pin connector on 
the K3s because they short the ring to the sleeve for some unknown reason.  So 
in order to use the K3s front panel 8pin Foster socket, you need to make your 
own Foster to stereo mini phone connector adapter. Only two connections and DX 
Engineering has an excellent Foster plug. Ignore the reference to Heil 
Replacement Part, it's just the same old Foster 8 pin plug for all mics and 
rigs. //

The PC standard is for electret bias to be supplied to the tip and ring of a 
tip, ring, shield (TRS) connector with audio from the microphone entering the 
PC on the tip.  The around 8 vdc bias is to be supplied via isolating TWO 
resistors, one to the tip and one to the ring.

Low budget USB soundcard adapters use ONE resistor supplying bias voltage to 
both the tip and ring which are thus shorted together within the adapter.  My 
Heil ProSet 3.5 mm microphone plug has no ring, just an extended sleeve.  So, 
essentially the Heil microphone plug has the ring and shield shorted together, 
and the cheap USB adapter shorts the tip and ring, so inserting a Heil 
microphone plug results in the tip, ring and shield all being shorted together. 
 The microphone would get no electret bias, and the audio it can’t produce is 
shorted to ground, too.  On the other hand, good PC soundcards use TWO 
resistors and the Heil ProSet works fine with them!

I believe in trust but verify.  Chuck is correct, plugging a TRS aka stereo 
jumper cable into the 3.5 mm microphone jack on my K2/K3 Heil adapter and 
checking things with my Fluke DVM reveals that somewhere in the adapter the 
ring and shield are shorted together; maybe in the way things are wired, may be 
in the Foster plug.

Continuing, with the K3 MIC-SEL sent to RPL-BIAS, at the rear-panel connector 
relative to the shield there is 7 VDC of bias applied to the tip, and the ring 
seems to float.  With power OFF, the resistance between tip and shield was 
about 4.5 megohms and between the ring and shield even higher.

Thanks Chuck, I learned something.  It was a good day.

Bob R – N7WY

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S boom mic ensemble options.

[hawley, charles j jr]

In that case, I have used one of these for a decade or more. It supports up to 
8 pounds and doesn't make noises when you move it with a live mic.

https://www.bswusa.com/Microphone-Booms-OC-White-51900BLK-P4184.aspx

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 9, 2019, at 7:12 PM, Nr4c 
mailto:n...@widomaker.com>> wrote:

Everyone so far has recommended a headset with “boom@ mic.

I wonder if you mean a mic on a table mounted “boom”?

From the options you describe, I think this might be the case.

I have a Heil PL-2T boom with a Heil SM-1 Shock mount with a Heil HM-12 mic. 
You’ll also need a cable (use Kenwood config) and some form of PTT if you don’t 
use VOX (an unused J-38 works well). This sounds good on with my K3S and K3.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


On Feb 9, 2019, at 7:48 PM, Walter Underwood 
mailto:wun...@wunderwood.org>> wrote:

On Feb 9, 2019, at 1:57 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:

The Yahama C-500 and the Koss SB-40 are two good ones.   Not expensive but 
comfortable and good sounding for both the mike and the earphones.  Either 
works very well with the K3S.   I know, I have all of them.  My preference is 
the Koss SB-40 over the Yamaha C-500.

The Koss SB-40 is essentially a Yamaha CM500 with a dynamic mic instead of an 
electret mic. Some people really don’t like the dynamic mic in the Koss SB-40. 
I’ve heard zero complaints about the electret in the CM500.

The Koss SB-45 is a completely different headset design that does have an 
electret mic. It sells for $25, much less than the CM500 ($60).

To muddy the waters further, my Yamaha CM500 has “KOSS” molded into the 
microphone plug.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S boom mic ensemble options.

[hawley, charles j jr]

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[https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qveggjFRL._SY300_QL70_.jpg]

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This is an excellent headset at a reasonable price. In a gaming headset with a 
mic, the tip and ring are shorted together and you can plug it into the rear of 
the K3s. You cannot use Heil's adapter for the front panel Foster 8 pin 
connector on the K3s because they short the ring to the sleeve for some unknown 
reason. So in order to use the K3s front panel 8pin Foster socket, you need to 
make your own Foster to stereo mini phone connector adapter. Only two 
connections and DX Engineering has an excellent Foster plug. Ignore the 
reference to Heil Replacement Part, it's just the same old Foster 8 pin plug 
for all mics and rigs.

https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/hls-hmc
[https://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/hls-hmc_us_xl.jpg]

Heil Sound Replacement Parts HMC - DX 
Engineering
Heil Sound Replacement Parts are available here to help repair or restore your 
Heil Sound product and make it like new again. Or you may choose to build a 
custom assembly. Many of these parts may be used for your own microphone or 
headset project. Find Heil Sound Replacement Parts HMC and get Free Standard 
Shipping on orders over $99 at DX Engineering!
www.dxengineering.com





Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Brian “VE3BWP” Pietrzyk 
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2019 2:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3S boom mic ensemble options.

I will soon have a K3S and I’ve been in the market for a boom mic set for the 
shack. This will be my first boom mic. I’ve checked out the Hiel site and could 
not find any complete packages. Everything is sold in too many subassemblies. 
I’ve tried emailing them but no reply. Our local ham store (radioworld.ca) only 
sells in pieces as well.

I’d prefer a tried and tested set ready to go boom mic set for the K3S.

Any recommendations? In this case value (performance and longevity comes ahead 
of price) for me. I plan to keep this station for a long time.

Thanks.
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Re: [Elecraft] Service manual

[hawley, charles j jr]

...and I would think the Kit Assembly Manual would be a good read for the 
purpose.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2019 8:06 AM
To: Ricardo Rodrigues; Bob via Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Service manual

Richardo,

You are looking for something that does not exist.
The Troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual has a lot of
information about error codes and steps to correct it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2019 8:35 AM, Ricardo Rodrigues wrote:
> Dear Guys,
>
> Hi.
> Please, im trying to find the service manual from K3.
> Any help?
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT | PX2F | 3D2PT | T30PT | T33PT | HH2/PY2PT
> py2pt.bra...@gmail.com
> http://www.py2pt.com 
> @ricrodrigues
> PX2A Contest Station member
> VP6D team member (2018) 
> T33A team member (2013) 
> 8R1PY team member (2012)
> T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012)
> TO2FH team member (Mayotte - 2011)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bricked HELP!!

[hawley, charles j jr]

Cats chew on cables sometimes 

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 24, 2019, at 2:45 PM, Bob DeHaney  wrote:
> 
> Mike Cizek WØVTT had the answer, and I have a responding K3 again.  Many 
> THANKS. 
> 
> 
> 
> However more sleuthing is needed, the ERR PTT is back.  We have a new kitty 
> who is very curious, maybe he rearranged a cable?
> 
> 
> 
> Vy 73 de Bob DJ0RD/WU5T
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[hawley, charles j jr]

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition to 
the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other 
> than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
> finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
> later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot 
> problems if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that 
> for me.  So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, 
> testing as I went along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
> which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already 
> have one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
> inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
> removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now 
> have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to 
> build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in 
> the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed 
> K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution 
> to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from 
> other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland 
> - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

[hawley, charles j jr]

Some have said that the coin cells don't leak...maybe not often but I know of 
one that leaked in a Kenwood 850 and ate away some of the circuit board traces. 
So regular maintenance is in order for any battery.


Chuck Hawley
Amateur Radio, KE9UW

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS 
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 12:03:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

Ups, Bill you scarred me with leaking the cell inside of my K3...:)
OK, OK, OK, I will check it tonite...





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
G+:http://goo.gl/w3u2s9
G+: http://goo.gl/gP99xq
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Mode switch skips AM

[hawley, charles j jr]

Go to MENU and AM, turn it on?

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 13, 2019, at 4:48 PM, Keith Onishi  wrote:
> 
> Correction as below;
> 
> Tapping MODE switch on my KX3 with MCU 02.90, most latest firmware, switches 
> mode from SSB -> CW -> FM -> FM, then back to SSB. It does skips AM.
> 
> 73 de JH3SIF, Keith
> 
>> 2019/01/14 7:37、Keith Onishi のメール:
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> Tapping MODE switch on my KX3 with MCU 02.90, most latest firmware, switches 
>> mode from SSB -> CW -> FM, then back to SSB. It does skips AM.
>> I have not switched to AM for long time. I think I was able to select AM by 
>> tapping MODE before.
>> I went through KX3 Owner’s Manual to look for any configuration to skip any 
>> specific mode, but found none.
>> Sending “MD5;” from KX3 utility software switches KX3 to AM mode. So MPU is 
>> OK on selecting a mode except switching the mode by MODE switch.
>> I restored my KX3 configuration backed up almost 6 months ago, but the 
>> symptom is same. Then I reloaded the latest firmware to my KX3, but the same 
>> result.
>> 
>> Have anyone experienced the similar problem?
>> Your though on any possible cause are welcome.
>> 
>> 73 de JH3SIF, Keith
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

[hawley, charles j jr]

Oh rats...an RTC battery warning would have been a plus.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 13, 2019, at 6:55 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Then check the power supply voltage (Use the alternate VFB B display) and all 
> connectors.
> That message has nothing to do with the RTC battery.
> 
> There is no internal battery in the K3 other than the tiny RTC battery.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/13/2019 12:01 AM, Mpridesti wrote:
>> Don
>> 
>> It is a K3.  Bought it used and carries a low serial number. Never have 
>> changed the internal battery (over 8 years in my possession).
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Mark, K1RX
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jan 12, 2019, at 11:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I assume you mean the KX3.  The K3 has no internal battery.
>>> 
>>> If you have Ni-MH batteries, they need recharging.  If you are using 
>>> Alkaline batteries, they need to be replaced.  I assume you have set the 
>>> menu BAT MIN for the type of battery you are using.  See the KX3 manual 
>>> page 36 of the manual.
>>> 
>>> Set BAT MIN for the type batteries used.  The default of 10 volts is good 
>>> for external Lead Acid batteries.  All other types require a different 
>>> setting.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
 On 1/12/2019 10:40 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:
 Just saw a message pop up saying Battery Low
 Assume this is the internal battery requires replacement?
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery Low K3

[hawley, charles j jr]

Good to know it gives a warning before it goes flat and leaks!

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 12, 2019, at 11:01 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Don
> 
> It is a K3.  Bought it used and carries a low serial number. Never have 
> changed the internal battery (over 8 years in my possession). 
> 
> Regards,
> Mark, K1RX
> 
> 
>> On Jan 12, 2019, at 11:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> I assume you mean the KX3.  The K3 has no internal battery.
>> 
>> If you have Ni-MH batteries, they need recharging.  If you are using 
>> Alkaline batteries, they need to be replaced.  I assume you have set the 
>> menu BAT MIN for the type of battery you are using.  See the KX3 manual page 
>> 36 of the manual.
>> 
>> Set BAT MIN for the type batteries used.  The default of 10 volts is good 
>> for external Lead Acid batteries.  All other types require a different 
>> setting.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 1/12/2019 10:40 PM, Mpridesti via Elecraft wrote:
>>> Just saw a message pop up saying Battery Low
>>> Assume this is the internal battery requires replacement?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Standard internal Noise

[hawley, charles j jr]

The coax cable supplied with the P3 at some period in time was known to be 
faulty.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 3, 2019, at 11:38 AM, Brian Hunt  wrote:
> 
> I've seen that. Does putting your hand on top of the P3 change it any? Mine 
> did. Anyway it seems to be related to the BNC cable to the K3. I put a new 
> cable in and jiggled it some and it went away. If it comes back l'll build my 
> own cable with quality connectors and double shielded cable. YMMV
> 
> 73,
> Brian, K0DTJ
> 
>> On Jan 3, 2019, at 05:20, Leroy Buller  wrote:
>> 
>> I am trying to trace down a noise on 40 meters, but it seems to follow the
>> VFO.  On the P3, the noise is a gradual jump that is 6 khz wide.  After the
>> vfo is not used for a while, the noise disappears.   
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] How to unsubscribe from reflector?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Maybe do a “lost my password “ and receive a password reset on his email 
account...
If you know the password for that.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 29, 2018, at 11:29 AM, brian  wrote:
> 
> How do we delete K3KO (SK) from the Elecraft reflector? There's no way to 
> know Brian's password. Spouse would appreciate help with this.
> Thanks, Bert N4CW
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> https://www.avg.com
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 100 Tuner question

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’m actually having difficulty imagining using a 3D printer to make a good 
looking smooth sheet metal cabinet.
Examples?

Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 22, 2018, at 10:24 PM, W2xj  wrote:
> 
> Well no. That $5k could be spread over all the metalwork and greatly reduce 
> inventory. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 22, 2018, at 20:11, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Well, if you spread $5K over a projected sales quantity of 100 (there were 
>> not of EC2 enclosures sold), then you have a tooling cost of $50 per 
>> enclosure.
>> Add to that the cost of administrative support, creating web pages, packing 
>> and shipping labor, and you have an EC2 enclosure that has to sell for over 
>> $150 to produce any profit.  About double the original customer cost of the 
>> EC2.
>> 
>> It is different if you can project selling thousands of the items.
>> Enough said.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 12/22/2018 10:38 PM, W2xj wrote:
>>> You can buy a 3D printer for under $5K and make metal work on an as needed 
>>> basis. That is where the auto industry is going.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Dec 22, 2018, at 19:03, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
 
 Josh,
 
 I may not be up to speed, but there are startup costs for anything.  Those 
 costs have to be added to the product cost and for small volumes, it can 
 be prohibited.
 Entering a CAD file, getting scheduling from a small shop that may have a 
 full schedule already can be costly.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
> On 12/22/2018 9:16 PM, Josh Fiden wrote:
> Hi Don,
> 
> Sounds like you're not up to speed on 21st century sheet metal 
> fabrication.
> 
> Small volume parts like this would be cut on a laser and bent with a CNC 
> press brake. The only setup is loading the programs and there is no 
> tooling. If someone draws the parts using a CAD program like Solid Edge, 
> the resulting 3D models can be utilized directly by the vendor. Even 
> small job shops have laser cutting ability, especially for small gauge 
> material like this.
> 
> 
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>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Opportunism, bravery, insanity: putting the "eXtreme" in Elecraft's KX and AX gear

[hawley, charles j jr]

I carried the smallest Swiss Army knife with the little 1 inch blade, scissors, 
and tooth pick onto a cruise out of Orlando once and they confiscated it. When 
we got on the boat, in our suite, there was a bar with a cork screw, knives and 
forks in the drawer, etc. Kind of ridiculous. But they gave it back to me after 
the cruise.


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 4:14:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Opportunism, bravery, insanity: putting the "eXtreme" 
in Elecraft's KX and AX gear

Glue a Swiss Army Knife to the side and you have all of that and more.
Of course, you can no longer carry it in the passenger cabin of an
aircraft - TSA will confiscate the entire radio if it is glued.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/18/2018 4:57 PM, Nr4c wrote:
> How about a small plastic “toothpick” imbedded in one paddle and a small 
> stainless “tweezer” in the other (ala Victorianox)?
>
> Sent from my iphone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>> On Dec 18, 2018, at 4:43 PM, Thorpe, Jeffrey  wrote:
>>
>> Since the KXPD3 has two paddles, why not a bottle opener on one, and a can 
>> opener on the other?
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] wire for random wire antenna using kx3

[hawley, charles j jr]

Interesting, I had an analog computer course exercise at the U of I Urbana when 
we had two verticals separated and phased to define the coverage pattern. I 
don’t remember the length of them. It’d be interesting to recall what it was.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 18, 2018, at 1:55 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Indeed.  AM broadcast vertical antennas are rarely 90 or 180 degrees, 
> especially if they are a Class A station.  I think both KFI and KNX in Los 
> Angeles have 195 deg verticals.  The design goal is to maximize field 
> strength in the service area, accomplished by adjusting the height of the 
> current maxima in the antenna element.  All resonance means is that the 
> reactive component of the impedance at the feed point is zero.  A bigger 
> problem for stations at the low end of the band ... KFI is at 640 KHz ... is 
> that the usable bandwidth of the antenna can be less than the bandwidth of 
> the DSB signal. [:-)  Last time I saw KFI's tower from Interstate 5, it 
> appeared to have a fairly large capacity hat.
> 
> Elecraft ATU's [even the KX1 which is necessarily small with a limited number 
> of L-C selections] seem to handle reactive loads just fine suggesting [to me 
> at least] that designing an antenna for azimuth and/or elevation pattern may 
> be more beneficial than achieving resonance in the desired part of the band.
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 12/17/2018 7:45 PM, W2xj wrote:
>> Coming from the broadcast side, especially AM broadcasting, I never 
>> considered resonance particularly important. Really it’s just the 
>> transmitter that cares. We always put matching at the antenna but in ham 
>> radio we usually have tuners at or in the TX.
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 question

[hawley, charles j jr]

The spacers are not mentioned as separate parts as far as I found. I don’t 
remember thinking about them even after building two kits. I believe they were 
fastened to and part of the board.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 16, 2018, at 2:37 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> The Assembly manual should provide enough info to answe your questions. The 
> spacer should be referenced to the parts inventory in rear of manual and 
> available via phone call to Elecraft. Ask for Madelyn. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Dec 16, 2018, at 9:35 AM, mike stokes  wrote:
>> 
>> I bought a used K3 and found that the lower right screw that holds the
>> KXV3t against the rear chassis had fallen out during shipping.  I took it
>> apart and found the lock washer and nut.  Figure 10 in the manual shows
>> that there should be a spacer attached to the KXV3.  The space is there on
>> the top left mounting hole, but not the lower right one.  There is no
>> evidence that it was ever one soldered to it. My concerns are
>> 
>> 1) Is the space still somewhere in side the radio causing very bad things
>> when I power it up.
>> 
>> 2) Without this spacer the KXV3 starts to flex if tightened to much an the
>> KXV3 may short against .the rear plate.  If not tightened enough it will
>> vibrate loose again.
>> 
>> Can anyone confirm that this spacer should have been on both mounting
>> wholes ?
>> 
>> Here is a link to pics of each mounting hole.
>> https://1drv.ms/u/s!ANLmO2vBrPixiTQ
>> 
>> 73
>> Mike Stokes
>> KK9V
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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3 question

[hawley, charles j jr]

There is clearly a spacer on each of the two screws. Figure 55 of the K3S 
manual shows the bottom screw and spacer on the KXV3B which is the same 
mechanically.


Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 16, 2018, at 8:35 AM, mike stokes  wrote:
> 
> I bought a used K3 and found that the lower right screw that holds the
> KXV3t against the rear chassis had fallen out during shipping.  I took it
> apart and found the lock washer and nut.  Figure 10 in the manual shows
> that there should be a spacer attached to the KXV3.  The space is there on
> the top left mounting hole, but not the lower right one.  There is no
> evidence that it was ever one soldered to it. My concerns are
> 
> 1) Is the space still somewhere in side the radio causing very bad things
> when I power it up.
> 
> 2) Without this spacer the KXV3 starts to flex if tightened to much an the
> KXV3 may short against .the rear plate.  If not tightened enough it will
> vibrate loose again.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that this spacer should have been on both mounting
> wholes ?
> 
> Here is a link to pics of each mounting hole.
> https://1drv.ms/u/s!ANLmO2vBrPixiTQ
> 
> 73
> Mike Stokes
> KK9V
> __
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