Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 serial number 7699

[W3FPR]

Allan,

Contact k2supp...@elecraft.com about that problem - in the meantime, do 
not wear out the core of L30, just set it to about the halfway location.
Instead compress or spread the red turns of T5 to see if you can obtain 
the proper R30 voltage.


It is not likely that L30 is the fault, but rather Q19, but Dave at 
Elecraft support can tell you more details.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/25/2023 9:19 AM, Allan Forster wrote:

Sorry, made a mistake and used the wrong frequency while attempting to set up 
the VXO.
Now the voltage at R30 is 4.3volts and does not change when adjusting L30.

Previous post

‘ I have got to the VCO alignment stage of aligning my K2.
I have got 7.4 volts on R30, this does not change when turning the core in L30. 
 The core moves but does not appear to move up or down so I suspect that the 
VCO inductor is damaged.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?’

Regards
Allan G4NNJ



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 serial number 7699

[Allan Forster]

Sorry, made a mistake and used the wrong frequency while attempting to set up 
the VXO.
Now the voltage at R30 is 4.3volts and does not change when adjusting L30.

Previous post

‘ I have got to the VCO alignment stage of aligning my K2.
I have got 7.4 volts on R30, this does not change when turning the core in L30. 
 The core moves but does not appear to move up or down so I suspect that the 
VCO inductor is damaged.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?’

Regards
Allan G4NNJ

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 serial number 7699

[Allan Forster]

Hi,
I have got to the VCO alignment stage of aligning my K2.
I have got 7.4 volts on R30, this does not change when turning the core in L30. 
 The core moves but does not appear to move up or down so I suspect that the 
VCO inductor is damaged.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

Regards
Allan G4NNJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 hum on CW

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

First try the VCOSHLDKT from Elecraft.  See my reflector post at 12:37 
today.


Alternately, move anything containing a transformer 2 feet or more away 
from the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/30/2020 9:11 PM, DaveVK wrote:


Any suggestions to clean the CW transmission up would be appreciated.  The
radio is not suitable for operation at present with the modulation on the CW
transmission.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 hum on CW

[DaveVK]

Hi folks,

I recently posted about my raspy CW audio on the K2.  It is most evident on
20 and 40m.  My shack is grounded.

Today I replaced the RFC15 just to make sure that wasn't the issue.

I have removed the KPA 100 and returned the QRP lid.  The issue still
exists.

Any suggestions to clean the CW transmission up would be appreciated.  The
radio is not suitable for operation at present with the modulation on the CW
transmission.

Cheers,

Dave 



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Hubert ROTH via Elecraft]

Dear all  After a long time I decided to reactivate my K2 SN 284. First 
15Minutes everything fine. Then when I transmit even wit min power I get INF0  
or sometimes INF0 000 everything still working, RX and TX . frequency power and 
so same on all bands
Anybody a clue?
Many thanks and 73,s 
Hubert F6DUK


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 CW key shaping

[dl2ki]

Hi,

thanks for the hints and information.

I will listen to the signal once with my K3. That seems to be the best way
to check the hint. But I will also have a look at the connector plugs and
power supply cables in my portable configuration.

73, Wolfgang
DL2KI




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 CW key shaping #chirp #click

[Rich NE1EE]

I don't have any experience with chirps, but I can add this bit.

If you can hear the change, then the change can be seen on an FFT. At least 
that would give a sense of whether the shift is up or down, if it is difficult 
to tell by listening. An FFT could also be applied to the RF, but, as Victor 
mentioned, the shift is small wrt the TX freq. It is NOT small wrt the decoded 
audio, however, which is why it was reported. So an FFT may well find it. There 
are different ways to get that analysis, and might not be worth the effort. One 
method would be to use a modern scope with FFT; another, a software scope such 
as the Zeitnitz scope; another might be fldigi. In the last two cases, you'd 
have to pipe the audio...that is the RX decoded audio...into the audio line in 
on a computer.

But you still have to find out why...so maybe this FFT business isn't worth the 
effort...because you still then have to find the /cause/, even though you now 
have a pretty good idea where to look.

On 2020-07-14 18:15:+1000, you wrote:
>Generally a chirp would be due to an unstable power supply, resistance in
>the fuse holder, etc.. It can also be cause by poor decoupling/loading of
>the oscillator circuit, but in the case of a well-designed circuit like the
>K2, this would normally  only arise with misplaced components or poor
>connections.
>
>On Tue, 14 Jul 2020 at 18:01, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP 
>wrote:
>
>> A chirp can't be seen visually on an oscilloscope (well, maybe on a > 
>> panadpter or spectrum analyzer if it is a very big one).
>>
>> A chirp is a change in frequency of the transmitted signal. It is not > the 
>> same as a click, which is a wide signal caused by too-short rise and > fall 
>> times of the keyed envelope, or a badly shaped envelope. You can > see the 
>> envelope shape on an oscilloscope. But the change in frequency > caused by a 
>> chirp is very small in comparison with the frequency of the > signal.
>>
>> The way to detect a chirp is to listen to the transmitted signal on a > 
>> second receiver. Your ear is very sensitive to changes in pitch.
>>
>> 73,
>> Victor, 4X6GP
>> Rehovot, Israel


~R~
72/73 de Rich NE1EE
On the banks of the Piscataqua

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 CW key shaping

[Matt Maguire]

Generally a chirp would be due to an unstable power supply, resistance in
the fuse holder, etc.. It can also be cause by poor decoupling/loading of
the oscillator circuit, but in the case of a well-designed circuit like the
K2, this would normally  only arise with misplaced components or poor
connections.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2020 at 18:01, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP 
wrote:

> A chirp can't be seen visually on an oscilloscope (well, maybe on a
> panadpter or spectrum analyzer if it is a very big one).
>
> A chirp is a change in frequency of the transmitted signal. It is not
> the same as a click, which is a wide signal caused by too-short rise and
> fall times of the keyed envelope, or a badly shaped envelope. You can
> see the envelope shape on an oscilloscope. But the change in frequency
> caused by a chirp is very small in comparison with the frequency of the
> signal.
>
> The way to detect a chirp is to listen to the transmitted signal on a
> second receiver. Your ear is very sensitive to changes in pitch.
>
> 73,
> Victor, 4X6GP
> Rehovot, Israel
> Formerly K2VCO
> CWops no. 5
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
> .
> On 14/07/2020 9:29, dl2ki wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > since someone told me that there is a small "chirp" in my K2-CW signal, I
> > would like to check the signal visually.
> >
> > How can I display the CW Key envelope as shown in the document "Elecraft
> K2
> > Keying Modification Instructions", page 1.
> >
> > An oscilloscope "Tektronix 2465A" is at my disposal, but I have little
> > experience with measuring instruments, since I only use them
> occasionally.
> >
> > Thank you and 73
> > Wolfgang
> > DL2KI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> > Message delivered to k2vco@gmail.com
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 CW key shaping

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

A chirp can't be seen visually on an oscilloscope (well, maybe on a 
panadpter or spectrum analyzer if it is a very big one).


A chirp is a change in frequency of the transmitted signal. It is not 
the same as a click, which is a wide signal caused by too-short rise and 
fall times of the keyed envelope, or a badly shaped envelope. You can 
see the envelope shape on an oscilloscope. But the change in frequency 
caused by a chirp is very small in comparison with the frequency of the 
signal.


The way to detect a chirp is to listen to the transmitted signal on a 
second receiver. Your ear is very sensitive to changes in pitch.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
.
On 14/07/2020 9:29, dl2ki wrote:

Hi,

since someone told me that there is a small "chirp" in my K2-CW signal, I
would like to check the signal visually.

How can I display the CW Key envelope as shown in the document "Elecraft K2
Keying Modification Instructions", page 1.

An oscilloscope "Tektronix 2465A" is at my disposal, but I have little
experience with measuring instruments, since I only use them occasionally.

Thank you and 73
Wolfgang
DL2KI




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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 CW key shaping

[dl2ki]

Hi,

since someone told me that there is a small "chirp" in my K2-CW signal, I
would like to check the signal visually.

How can I display the CW Key envelope as shown in the document "Elecraft K2
Keying Modification Instructions", page 1.

An oscilloscope "Tektronix 2465A" is at my disposal, but I have little
experience with measuring instruments, since I only use them occasionally.

Thank you and 73
Wolfgang
DL2KI




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/100 turn on issue

[W4RAM]

*PLEASE DISREGARD MY MESSAGE!!!
*
My apologies,

73!

Al
W4RAM



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/100 turn on issue

[W4RAM]

Good morning,

Looking for your advice:

When I connect the power cable to the KPA100 and also, power the radio
through the DC barrel jack, K2 does not turn on; if I remove the KPA100
power cable, the radio turn on as normal (then show "No PA PS").
I am using a Diamond GSV3000.

Thank you for any assistance.

Al
W4RAM



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 firmware update

[Don Wilhelm]

Al,

Yes, that is the current level firmware, and you do not need to update 
the KSB2 firmware unless you want the latest functions.
Before updating the firmware, download the K2 A to B instructions.  It 
has a nice chart for recording your menu settings - they will all be 
reset.  You will need the internal counter probe to record the BFO settings.
If your K2 serial number is below 3000 and you have not installed the 
KIO2 or the KPA100, you will have to make the Control Board modification 
for the sidetone source.  The mod is shown in the KIO2 and the KPA100 
manuals.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/22/2020 12:38 AM, W4RAM wrote:

Good morning,
I am looking for assistance with the following:
My Elecraft K2 show firmware version: 2.01 and 1.02.
Is the #FWK2MCIO the correct kit that I need to update the firmware to 2.04
and 1.09?
If the K2 have the KSB2 SSB Module, do I need complete any other firmware
upgrade?

Thank you for any advice and assistance.

V/R

Al
W4RAM



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 firmware update

[W4RAM]

Good morning,
I am looking for assistance with the following:
My Elecraft K2 show firmware version: 2.01 and 1.02.
Is the #FWK2MCIO the correct kit that I need to update the firmware to 2.04
and 1.09?
If the K2 have the KSB2 SSB Module, do I need complete any other firmware
upgrade?

Thank you for any advice and assistance.

V/R

Al
W4RAM



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7855, alignment and test part II, bad PLL frequency.

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

Congratulations.  Leave the capacitor in and go on.  On other words, 
treat it as a permanent fix - you might also want to add it to your 
schematic.

No need to change Q19.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/7/2020 12:25 PM, Christophe GIBERT wrote:

Hey ! I’ve soldered a 20pF capacitor that i’d from personal stock between U4 
pin 1 and U4 pin 12 (ground), and all is good !

I can go to BFO Test without  any problem !

Does this mod could be considered as definitive or should I change Q19 with 
another J310 ?

Thanks a lot for the super hyper quick help! :-)

Best regards.

—
Chris


Le 6 mai 2020 à 23:37, Don Wilhelm  a écrit :

Chris,

Your English is much better than my French!  I hope you can understand the 
following:

You have a Q19 that is not willing to work at the high frequency end of the PLL 
range.

The proper thing to do is replace Q19 with a J310 FET that is better. Order one 
from Elecraft (email to supp...@elecraft.com) with the part number.

What you can try is to add a small value capacitor (12 or 15pF) from U4 pin 1 
to U4 pin 12 (ground) to see if that restores proper function.  If you do not 
have a stock of small capacitors, use the 12pF in the K2 kit which you have not 
yet installed and order a replacement from Elecraft.

Proper functioning thru-hole J310s have been a problem since Elecraft ran out 
of the old ones and found that they had been discontinued by the manufacturer.

I know of one ham in Europe who used an SMD J310 as a replacement - but if you 
consider that, know that the basing is not the same and you would have to go 
from the data sheet to know which pin to connect to the holes.  He mounted it 
on the bottom of the board.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 5/6/2020 4:44 PM, Christophe GIBERT wrote:
Hi! First of all, sorry for my poor english, i’m french ;-)
I’m building my k2 number 7855.
In the first step of the 4mhz oscillator calibration, i get a frequency of 
00500.00 instead of 12090.00
When i press BAND + : 00475.00 and BAND - : 12085.43 (stable).
I’ve tested probe on TP2, I’d 4913.52
I reviewed all components in the pll schematics and nothing seems wrong.
Please help me, i don’t know what to look for now.
Thanks a lot.
—
Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7855, alignment and test part II, bad PLL frequency.

[Christophe GIBERT]

Hey ! I’ve soldered a 20pF capacitor that i’d from personal stock between U4 
pin 1 and U4 pin 12 (ground), and all is good ! 

I can go to BFO Test without  any problem !

Does this mod could be considered as definitive or should I change Q19 with 
another J310 ?

Thanks a lot for the super hyper quick help! :-)

Best regards.

— 
Chris

> Le 6 mai 2020 à 23:37, Don Wilhelm  a écrit :
> 
> Chris,
> 
> Your English is much better than my French!  I hope you can understand the 
> following:
> 
> You have a Q19 that is not willing to work at the high frequency end of the 
> PLL range.
> 
> The proper thing to do is replace Q19 with a J310 FET that is better. Order 
> one from Elecraft (email to supp...@elecraft.com) with the part number.
> 
> What you can try is to add a small value capacitor (12 or 15pF) from U4 pin 1 
> to U4 pin 12 (ground) to see if that restores proper function.  If you do not 
> have a stock of small capacitors, use the 12pF in the K2 kit which you have 
> not yet installed and order a replacement from Elecraft.
> 
> Proper functioning thru-hole J310s have been a problem since Elecraft ran out 
> of the old ones and found that they had been discontinued by the manufacturer.
> 
> I know of one ham in Europe who used an SMD J310 as a replacement - but if 
> you consider that, know that the basing is not the same and you would have to 
> go from the data sheet to know which pin to connect to the holes.  He mounted 
> it on the bottom of the board.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/6/2020 4:44 PM, Christophe GIBERT wrote:
>> Hi! First of all, sorry for my poor english, i’m french ;-)
>> I’m building my k2 number 7855.
>> In the first step of the 4mhz oscillator calibration, i get a frequency of 
>> 00500.00 instead of 12090.00
>> When i press BAND + : 00475.00 and BAND - : 12085.43 (stable).
>> I’ve tested probe on TP2, I’d 4913.52
>> I reviewed all components in the pll schematics and nothing seems wrong.
>> Please help me, i don’t know what to look for now.
>> Thanks a lot.
>> —
>> Chris
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7855, alignment and test part II, bad PLL frequency.

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

Your English is much better than my French!  I hope you can understand 
the following:


You have a Q19 that is not willing to work at the high frequency end of 
the PLL range.


The proper thing to do is replace Q19 with a J310 FET that is better. 
Order one from Elecraft (email to supp...@elecraft.com) with the part 
number.


What you can try is to add a small value capacitor (12 or 15pF) from U4 
pin 1 to U4 pin 12 (ground) to see if that restores proper function.  If 
you do not have a stock of small capacitors, use the 12pF in the K2 kit 
which you have not yet installed and order a replacement from Elecraft.


Proper functioning thru-hole J310s have been a problem since Elecraft 
ran out of the old ones and found that they had been discontinued by the 
manufacturer.


I know of one ham in Europe who used an SMD J310 as a replacement - but 
if you consider that, know that the basing is not the same and you would 
have to go from the data sheet to know which pin to connect to the 
holes.  He mounted it on the bottom of the board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/6/2020 4:44 PM, Christophe GIBERT wrote:

Hi! First of all, sorry for my poor english, i’m french ;-)

I’m building my k2 number 7855.

In the first step of the 4mhz oscillator calibration, i get a frequency of 
00500.00 instead of 12090.00

When i press BAND + : 00475.00 and BAND - : 12085.43 (stable).

I’ve tested probe on TP2, I’d 4913.52

I reviewed all components in the pll schematics and nothing seems wrong.

Please help me, i don’t know what to look for now.

Thanks a lot.

—
Chris
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7855, alignment and test part II, bad PLL frequency.

[Christophe GIBERT]

Hi! First of all, sorry for my poor english, i’m french ;-)

I’m building my k2 number 7855. 

In the first step of the 4mhz oscillator calibration, i get a frequency of 
00500.00 instead of 12090.00 

When i press BAND + : 00475.00 and BAND - : 12085.43 (stable).

I’ve tested probe on TP2, I’d 4913.52

I reviewed all components in the pll schematics and nothing seems wrong. 

Please help me, i don’t know what to look for now.

Thanks a lot.

— 
Chris
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 Kit and accessories For Sale $1500.00

[David Fuchs]

 David Fuchs – Elecraft K2 Kit and accessories For Sale $1500.00
(Unbuilt)
I have a new and unused K2 Kit with the following accessories for sale: 
My cost was over 2300.   Asking $1500.00 Shipped in the USA 
casualobserver...@msn.com 

K2 832.57 Ser. No.  007926

KAT100-1 369.95 
KAF2129.95 
KSB2179.95 
KNB2 89.95 
K160M   79.95 
KIO2  99.95 
KBT2  99.95 
KAT2   219.95 

Toroids141.50 

KUSB   42.85 
KPCA-F   29.95 
E980019   26.76 




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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 Kit and accessories For Sale $1500.00

[David Fuchs]

I have a new and unused K2 Kit with the following accessories for sale:
My cost was over 2300.   Asking $1500.00 Shipped in the USA
casualobserver...@msn.com

K2   832.57

KAT100-1369.95
KAF2129.95
KSB2179.95
KNB2  89.95
K160M 79.95
KIO2  99.95
KBT2  99.95
KAT2 219.95

Toroids  141.50 

KUSB42.85 
KPCA-F  29.95 
E980019   26.76






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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 for sale

[Lloyd Korb]

K2  s/n 5035

KPA 100 Amplifier

KNB2 Noise Blanker

K160RX 160 meter module

KAF2 Audio filter and Real-Time Clock

KI02 RS-232 Interface and Aux I/O

K60XV and Transverter Adapter

KSB2 SSB Option

 

$1000 plus shipping

 

Please contact me off list at K8DIO (at) roadrunner.com

 

Lloyd  K8DIO

 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 for sale

[Lloyd Korb]

K2  s/n 5035

KPA 100 Amplifier

KNB2 Noise Blanker

K160RX 160 meter module

KAF2 Audio filter and Real-Time Clock

KI02 RS-232 Interface and Aux I/O

K60XV and Transverter Adapter

KSB2 SSB Option

 

$1200 plus shipping

 

Please contact me off list at K8DIO (at) roadrunner.com

 

Lloyd  K8DIO

 

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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

No problem with the KAT2 installed.  Ty-wrap the speaker cable to the 
KAT2 cable, but do not put any ty-wraps at the end of the battery.
If the speaker wire has ty-wraps that fall at the end of the battery, 
cut them off.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2019 9:00 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.

Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad


On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:

Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.


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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Brian Denley]

I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
> 
> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems 
> like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
> 
> Anyone else have both?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brian 
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad

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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

I have both in my K2.  Ty-wrap the battery wires and the KIO2 cable 
together, but do not put any ty-wraps at the ends of the battery.


I also have the KAT2.  In a similar manner, ty-wrap the speaker wiring 
to the KAT2 cable, but not at the ends of the battery.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2019 7:33 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.


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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Jay Rutherford]

I have both in my K2 with no problem. Well, I did until I removed the battery 
and its holder; too heavy and too old technology. I also have a digital card I 
got from Pauli, EA3BLQ (SK) that fits in as well. The KIO2 hangs on its plug, 
but stays in place.

73 
Jay K3BH

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, at 19:33, Brian Denley wrote:
> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It 
> seems like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
> 
> Anyone else have both?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brian 
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

[Brian Denley]

Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.

Anyone else have both?

Thanks

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 external amplifier

[Don Wilhelm]

Wolfgang,

Connect K60XV J2 pin 2 to a jack and you will have an Amp Keying output.
There is just barely room to mount an RCA jack on the lower rear panel. 
Look for a clear spot near the Key jack and drill a hole as close to the 
top of the panel as possible while still allowing the jack to not 
project above the top of the panel.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/20/2019 8:15 AM, Wolfgang Peringer wrote:

Hello:

I have built and installed the K60XV 60m and transverter adapter in my 
K2. I was using the 8-pin female connector (RF-J13) for my amplifier 
keying circuit (N0SS design). As this connector is now used for the 
KX60XV I am looking for a way to key an external amplifier.



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 external amplifier

[Wolfgang Peringer]

Hello:

I have built and installed the K60XV 60m and transverter adapter in my 
K2. I was using the 8-pin female connector (RF-J13) for my amplifier 
keying circuit (N0SS design). As this connector is now used for the 
KX60XV I am looking for a way to key an external amplifier.


73s

Wolfgang

dk7cy

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 Transceiver SL NO 02569 Instead of Frequency shows Power output

[Sara, VU3RSB - India]

Dear Alll

Can any one guide me... last few days i am back on Air after a long
gap. When i turn on my radio the display shows Frequency and suddenly
change to Power out put.

Its not consistently shows the Frequency display Can you advice
what functions do i need to use.

2nd Issue There is 10 Hz difference in Frequency read out with other
transceivers

Look forward to receive help in this regard

73s
Sara, vu3rsb
-
R.Sarath Babu, VU3RSB
Personal: www.vu3rsb.org
Mobile: +91 9949977388
Member in VU4 Dxpedition in 2004, 2006
Member in VU7 Dxpedition in 2006
CQ WW Contest in 2008: AU2RSB
Nachugunta IOTA Activation in 2008 : AT2RS

Recipient of Rajiv Gandhi Award 1996, 1997
International Humanitarian Award - ARRL USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp issue and loking for advice

[Cameron Francey]

oops, forgot to reply all



From: Cameron Francey <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:16 PM
To: donw...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp issue and loking for advice


Hi Don,

I suspected I was most likely a case of bad luck with a component so thanks for 
confirming that.  Yes, I was thinking ahead on how I would be removing it.  I 
thought about trying that approach and crushing it with pliers to get at each 
pin.  Being clear on three sides will make that a little easier.

De-solder braid and a de-soldering pump have been my tools of choice for the 
past 30 years.. I'll be sure to be really careful, so thanks for also 
mentioning that point.


I'll contact Elecraft and ask for the part.


thanks,

Cameron


PS, that was a fast response to my question, very much appreciated!

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp issue and loking for advice

[Don Wilhelm]

Cameron,

There is nothing in that circuit that would have zapped L34.  I would 
just replace the inductor.


If you do not have good de-soldering equipment, L34 may be difficult to 
remove.  I suggest destroying the present inductor if you have to, and 
take it out one pin at a time (get the shield off first, then work on 
the inductor).
Be careful not to damage the thru-plated holes in the RF Board, or you 
will be in for a circuit re-wiring task.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2017 4:49 PM, Cameron Francey wrote:





Should I just request L34, or is there something else I may need from others 
past experiences?


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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 IF Amp issue and loking for advice

[Cameron Francey]

Hi,

I was re-adjusting the IF amp peak on my K2, however (and I do remember having 
an issue at build time) there is no peak in the whole range of the inductor can.

Doing some investigation along with the circuit digram I think I have found my 
problem.


Across pins 1 and 8 of U12 I'm seeing the value of R111, which is about 5k5, 
but thats also in parallel with the winding of L34, so I'd have expected that 
to have measured just a few ohms or less.

So seems that my issue is an open circuit L34.  The only reason I noticed this 
was because side by side with my more recent K2 its not quite as sensitive.  On 
the plus side it does have a much lower noise floor.


So, my question is based around if anything would cause L34 to go open circuit? 
 I cant see anything in the circuit that might have caused excessive current or 
something similar.  All the solder work in that whole area is neat, and I 
didn't over-do the heat when installing it and the components all appear to be 
in the correct places.

It had worked, as I remember finding the peak at the time I built it, but then 
suddenly it wouldn't re-peak after that, but at the time I didn't think much 
more of it.


Should I just request L34, or is there something else I may need from others 
past experiences?



thanks in advance,

Cameron - AF7DK/GM7LQR



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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2 Ground -Binding Posts

[BYRON]

I have many of the actual Ground binding posts that ELECRAFT supplies with
there K2 rigs.. The actual part is KEYSTONE Electronics p/n # 7007 . I will
sell These for $5.00 each shipped USPS, The reference price each is $6.72
plus shipping on Mouser Electronics.. PAYPAL O.K.
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

Many moons ago when there was a K2 but no KPA100 I wanted to drive an 
amp with my K2 and I needed a few more watts. I made some modification 
(I don't remember the details) that allowed it to produce more than 20 
watts, which made a big difference in output from my amp. I operated for 
a while like that until the KPA100 came out, and it didn't seem to hurt 
anything.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 26 Feb 2017 01:02, Cameron Francey wrote:

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to
add but the basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for
a week or so to make sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and
identify all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it
made life much easier to select the correct values efficiently during
the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the
remainder of the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to
the transmitter alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2
watts out as expected it was over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I
thought to myself?  I had a quick look over everything, made 100%
sure all the components were installed correctly etc, but couldn't
find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the transformer winding's
and made sure they were all installed correctly.  Nothing looked out
of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly
every option available I knew it had to be something I had done
wrong.  So I kept my logic head on and decided after my initial
disappointment and re-checking my work that a break away from the
bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my
issue was somehow with the components that either set or control the
power level,  and my reason for thinking that was because the issue
was present on every band and the power control pot made no
difference to the output power, and RX wise it was performing really
well so that eliminated a lot of the sections.  Thinking about ALC or
the power control circuit on the control board I decided that was
where to start and work outwards from there.  I knew the transmit
section of the main RF board was in good shape since it was capable
of producing more than 20 watts into a dummy load!


So, I read the circuit diagram, pulled out the control board and
started to trace the ALC circuit though the board.. That's when I
found my problem, I couldn't believe how stupid I had been and missed
soldering pin 2 of RP 3 on the Control Board, which is the ALC
feedback loop.  After soldering that and re-testing all was well,
phew!!!


Where the lesson was learned was even though I'm close to obsessive
compulsive when identifying and selecting each component and double
checking twice before soldering anything, then checking with a
magnifying glass that the joints look good I still somehow managed to
let that un-soldered pin go unnoticed!


I don't think I have caused any adverse effects to the PA section
driving it so hard.  The short periods of transmitting at about 23
watts never caused them to heat up.  Its interesting that the PA
produced over 20 watts, so the 15 watts max output under normal
conditions seems quite a conservative level for those 2SC1969's.


Just thought I'd share my stupid mistake with the readers here and
that even being really careful things can still slip through the
net!



Best Regards,

Cameron, AF7DK/GM7LQR

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

[Don Wilhelm]

Cameron,

Don't feel bad, it happens to the best of us.  I am glad you found the 
problem.


Be careful to make certain pin 1 of the ICs and Rpaks is soldered.  The 
solder pad for pin 1 is a different shape than all the rest, and is 
often missed by builders.


Congratulations on your troubleshooting skills.  Good luck as you add 
the options.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 2/25/2017 6:02 PM, Cameron Francey wrote:

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to add but the 
basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for a week or so to make 
sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and identify 
all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it made life much 
easier to select the correct values efficiently during the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the remainder of 
the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to the transmitter 
alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2 watts out as expected it was 
over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I thought to myself?  I had a quick look 
over everything, made 100% sure all the components were installed correctly 
etc, but couldn't find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the transformer 
winding's and made sure they were all installed correctly.  Nothing looked out 
of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly every option 
available I knew it had to be something I had done wrong.  So I kept my logic 
head on and decided after my initial disappointment and re-checking my work 
that a break away from the bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my issue was 
somehow with the components that either set or control the power level,  and my 
reason for thinking that was because the issue was present on every band and 
the power control pot made no difference to the output power, and RX wise it 
was performing really well so that eliminated a lot of the sections.  Thinking 
about ALC or the power control circuit on the control board I decided that was 
where to start and work outwards from there.  I knew the transmit section of 
the main RF board was in good shape since it was capable of producing more than 
20 watts into a dummy load!


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Yes, you did good.  One thing I learned when a friend had a project go south 
and could not find the reason. He brought it to me and it was an enameled wire 
that he had not striped the enamel off.  The connection looked good but it did 
not burn through the enamel.  Again DETAIL and double checks.  Now where did I 
put my keys,,,
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Ron D'Eau Claire <r...@cobi.biz>
 To: 'Cameron Francey' <cameronfranceyut...@hotmail.com>; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.
   
Glad it turned out well in the end, Cameron. All "solder jockeys" know how a
joint sometimes magically "desolders" itself. 

You were lucky after all. Often the unsoldered joint is making contact with
the thru-plated hole and everything works - until a little oxide builds up
and the resistance climbs until the circuit is open - often months or even
years later. Of course by then a component failure is the prime suspect and
many hours can be lost looking everywhere but the solder joints. 

Enjoy your new K2. I built mine in 2000 and it is still a FB rig.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Cameron Francey
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to add but
the basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for a week or so to
make sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and identify
all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it made life much
easier to select the correct values efficiently during the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the remainder
of the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to the transmitter
alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2 watts out as expected it
was over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I thought to myself?  I had a quick
look over everything, made 100% sure all the components were installed
correctly etc, but couldn't find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the
transformer winding's and made sure they were all installed correctly.
Nothing looked out of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly every
option available I knew it had to be something I had done wrong.  So I kept
my logic head on and decided after my initial disappointment and re-checking
my work that a break away from the bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my issue
was somehow with the components that either set or control the power level,
and my reason for thinking that was because the issue was present on every
band and the power control pot made no difference to the output power, and
RX wise it was performing really well so that eliminated a lot of the
sections.  Thinking about ALC or the power control circuit on the control
board I decided that was where to start and work outwards from there.  I
knew the transmit section of the main RF board was in good shape since it
was capable of producing more than 20 watts into a dummy load!


So, I read the circuit diagram, pulled out the control board and started to
trace the ALC circuit though the board.. That's when I found my problem, I
couldn't believe how stupid I had been and missed soldering pin 2 of RP 3 on
the Control Board, which is the ALC feedback loop.  After soldering that and
re-testing all was well, phew!!!


Where the lesson was learned was even though I'm close to obsessive
compulsive when identifying and selecting each component and double checking
twice before soldering anything, then checking with a magnifying glass that
the joints look good I still somehow managed to let that un-soldered pin go
unnoticed!


I don't think I have caused any adverse effects to the PA section driving it
so hard.  The short periods of transmitting at about 23 watts never caused
them to heat up.  Its interesting that the PA produced over 20 watts, so the
15 watts max output under normal conditions seems quite a conservative level
for those 2SC1969's.


Just thought I'd share my stupid mistake with the readers here and that even
being really careful things can still slip through the net!



Best Regards,

Cameron, AF7DK/GM7LQR





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Glad it turned out well in the end, Cameron. All "solder jockeys" know how a
joint sometimes magically "desolders" itself. 

You were lucky after all. Often the unsoldered joint is making contact with
the thru-plated hole and everything works - until a little oxide builds up
and the resistance climbs until the circuit is open - often months or even
years later. Of course by then a component failure is the prime suspect and
many hours can be lost looking everywhere but the solder joints. 

Enjoy your new K2. I built mine in 2000 and it is still a FB rig.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Cameron Francey
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to add but
the basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for a week or so to
make sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and identify
all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it made life much
easier to select the correct values efficiently during the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the remainder
of the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to the transmitter
alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2 watts out as expected it
was over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I thought to myself?  I had a quick
look over everything, made 100% sure all the components were installed
correctly etc, but couldn't find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the
transformer winding's and made sure they were all installed correctly.
Nothing looked out of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly every
option available I knew it had to be something I had done wrong.  So I kept
my logic head on and decided after my initial disappointment and re-checking
my work that a break away from the bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my issue
was somehow with the components that either set or control the power level,
and my reason for thinking that was because the issue was present on every
band and the power control pot made no difference to the output power, and
RX wise it was performing really well so that eliminated a lot of the
sections.  Thinking about ALC or the power control circuit on the control
board I decided that was where to start and work outwards from there.  I
knew the transmit section of the main RF board was in good shape since it
was capable of producing more than 20 watts into a dummy load!


So, I read the circuit diagram, pulled out the control board and started to
trace the ALC circuit though the board.. That's when I found my problem, I
couldn't believe how stupid I had been and missed soldering pin 2 of RP 3 on
the Control Board, which is the ALC feedback loop.  After soldering that and
re-testing all was well, phew!!!


Where the lesson was learned was even though I'm close to obsessive
compulsive when identifying and selecting each component and double checking
twice before soldering anything, then checking with a magnifying glass that
the joints look good I still somehow managed to let that un-soldered pin go
unnoticed!


I don't think I have caused any adverse effects to the PA section driving it
so hard.  The short periods of transmitting at about 23 watts never caused
them to heat up.  Its interesting that the PA produced over 20 watts, so the
15 watts max output under normal conditions seems quite a conservative level
for those 2SC1969's.


Just thought I'd share my stupid mistake with the readers here and that even
being really careful things can still slip through the net!



Best Regards,

Cameron, AF7DK/GM7LQR





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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Build and a lesson learned.

[Cameron Francey]

Hi All,

I Just finished my Elecraft K2/10 build.  I have lots of options to add but the 
basic K2/10 is now working and I'll let it settle in for a week or so to make 
sure its all ok before adding any options.


I started this build at the end of January, taking care to sort and identify 
all the parts, especially the fixed value capacitors so it made life much 
easier to select the correct values efficiently during the build.

Everything went well, got the phase 1 and 2 tests done, added the remainder of 
the components to finish phase 3 and then when I got to the transmitter 
alignment step I noticed that rather than about 2 watts out as expected it was 
over 20 watts!  Gee, what was wrong I thought to myself?  I had a quick look 
over everything, made 100% sure all the components were installed correctly 
etc, but couldn't find anything wrong.  I even re-counted all the transformer 
winding's and made sure they were all installed correctly.  Nothing looked out 
of place.


Having recently built two K1's and a K2/100 with KAT100 and nearly every option 
available I knew it had to be something I had done wrong.  So I kept my logic 
head on and decided after my initial disappointment and re-checking my work 
that a break away from the bench was a good start.


Back to the bench this morning with a fresh mind I suspected that my issue was 
somehow with the components that either set or control the power level,  and my 
reason for thinking that was because the issue was present on every band and 
the power control pot made no difference to the output power, and RX wise it 
was performing really well so that eliminated a lot of the sections.  Thinking 
about ALC or the power control circuit on the control board I decided that was 
where to start and work outwards from there.  I knew the transmit section of 
the main RF board was in good shape since it was capable of producing more than 
20 watts into a dummy load!


So, I read the circuit diagram, pulled out the control board and started to 
trace the ALC circuit though the board.. That's when I found my problem, I 
couldn't believe how stupid I had been and missed soldering pin 2 of RP 3 on 
the Control Board, which is the ALC feedback loop.  After soldering that and 
re-testing all was well, phew!!!


Where the lesson was learned was even though I'm close to obsessive compulsive 
when identifying and selecting each component and double checking twice before 
soldering anything, then checking with a magnifying glass that the joints look 
good I still somehow managed to let that un-soldered pin go unnoticed!


I don't think I have caused any adverse effects to the PA section driving it so 
hard.  The short periods of transmitting at about 23 watts never caused them to 
heat up.  Its interesting that the PA produced over 20 watts, so the 15 watts 
max output under normal conditions seems quite a conservative level for those 
2SC1969's.


Just thought I'd share my stupid mistake with the readers here and that even 
being really careful things can still slip through the net!



Best Regards,

Cameron, AF7DK/GM7LQR





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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/100 Twins FS

[N3ALN]

I have a Elecraft K2 station for sale. $1250.00 plus shipping (paypal
accepted) 
Station works great. Serial# 00247
Rare but handy "K2 Twins" configuration transceiver as described by KK7P The
KPA-100 amplifier and KAT-100 autotuner are housed in an enclosure matching
that of the K2. This allows the K2 to be detached and used as a stand alone
QRP/Portable battery powered rig or connected together for a full 100+ watt
base station. The K2 includes the following optional modules:

KNB2
KBT2
K160RX
KSB2
KAT2
KIO2
KAF2

You will get a serial cable and a BNC cable along with the radio and
tuner/amp and manuals ONLY, no more no less.

PHOTOS:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g21svqq5d9s3ay8/AAADSrpXRoRrtvuk3EAbhw8ua?dl=0

73
Alan N3ALN



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-K2-100-Twins-FS-tp7624352.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 re-work eliminator

[John Corkett]

Hi there

I'm relatively new to radio and way behind the curve when it comes to 
discovering useful items that are great ideas. I'm building a K2 and would 
really like to utilise the unpcbs.com rework eliminators but as usual I'm way 
behind things with them going out of production 5 years ago.
By any chance does anyone have a set they bought and never used laying around 
and would be willing to sell them?
I've tried all possible sources in the UK and Europe to no avail.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance 

73's John / M0XXF 


m0...@qsl.net
m0...@arrl.net
john.cork...@gmail.com

Sent from my android device.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft k2

[Enzo Greco]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the offers!Managed to find a kx1.

Thanks Phil...

 

 

** Now looking for a Elecraft K2 only *** Please let me know options
and price shipped.

 

73 de ve3vtg

Enzo

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 don't communicate with KPA100/KAT100(in same EC2)

[Don Wilhelm]

Bo,

Since the base K2 works properly with the KAT2, I doubt you have a 
problem with Control Board U6.  Make sure you do have power control with 
the base K2 and KAT2 in place - set the power for 5 watts and connect an 
external wattmeter to see what the actual power may be - you should 
measure close to 5 watts.


Check the KIO2.  The inductor L1 on the AUX2 board and inductors L2, L3 
and L4 on the KIO2 board should show continuity - if not replace them.


Your pin misalignment would have placed 12 volts onto the VRFDET line to 
the KPA100 - if your luck runs good the KIO2 inductors may have acted as 
a fuse, but it is possible that KPA100 U6 could have been damaged.


It may be informative to remove the QRP top cover and connect the KPA100 
(removed from the EC2 enclosure) directly to the base K2 to check its 
operation and ability to control power in the above 11 watt range.  If 
you do not have good power control with the KPA100 connected directly to 
the base K2, replace KPA100 U6 and check again.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/1/2016 1:42 PM, Bo Andersson wrote:

My K2 and KPA100/KAT100 have served me for over 10 years now without any 
problem!
  
After that I made the frequency calibration of K2 I made a mistake when I put contact from KIO2 and KAT2 to Control board. I put the Contact one unit up, pin 3 from KIO2/KAT2 come on pin1 on P4.
  
When I put all together and test, KPA100/KAT100 (both in same EC2) don’t respond.
  
Using Ant ½ I got answer ”PA ANT 1” also when I use menuitem ”ATU” I got the same answer ”PA ANT 1”

I hear a relay click in KPA100 when I switch on the radio.
  
Testing single K2/KIO2/KAT2 all work well.
  
Testing K2/KPA100 got 20 W with 1 – 10 W on powerbutton and full power on over 10 W.

Can’t change power with the powerbutton.
  
Perhaps U6 on Control Board is out of order! I measure all pin and got som differens against value in the manual.
  



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[Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 don't communicate with KPA100/KAT100(in same EC2)

[Bo Andersson]

My K2 and KPA100/KAT100 have served me for over 10 years now without any 
problem!
 
After that I made the frequency calibration of K2 I made a mistake when I put 
contact from KIO2 and KAT2 to Control board. I put the Contact one unit up, pin 
3 from KIO2/KAT2 come on pin1 on P4. 
 
When I put all together and test, KPA100/KAT100 (both in same EC2) don’t 
respond. 
 
Using Ant ½ I got answer ”PA ANT 1” also when I use menuitem ”ATU” I got the 
same answer ”PA ANT 1”
I hear a relay click in KPA100 when I switch on the radio.
 
Testing single K2/KIO2/KAT2 all work well.
 
Testing K2/KPA100 got 20 W with 1 – 10 W on powerbutton and full power on over 
10 W.
Can’t change power with the powerbutton.
 
Perhaps U6 on Control Board is out of order! I measure all pin and got som 
differens against value in the manual.
 
Pin My U6  U6
 
  6  0.0 4.7
10  0.0 5.0
13  0.7 2.3
18  5.0 0.0
25  5.0 0.0
33  0.08   5.0
36  4.6 0.8
39  1.02   0.2
 
Hope I manage to explain the problem!

73 Bo/SM6FPG
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RF board

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

Look at that capacitor carefully under good light and magnification.  
See if that "330" isn't really "33G".  If so, it is the 47pF that you seek.

If it is marked "470J" then it is for certain the 47pF.

Sort your capacitors.  You should have 4 33pF and 4 47pF.  Once you have 
them all sorted and can compare the markings, it should become obvious.
The manual may show a disc type, but the type of capacitors has changed 
to mono in many cases.  The color of the capacitors has changed over 
time too.


One thing I can tell you is that you have a 2.2pF capacitor that is now 
labeled "229" - the '9' indicting that the decimal should be moved to 
the left by one place (9 is a negative 1).  That 2.2pF capacitor used to 
be a disc ceramic too, and is likely shown that way in the manual.


Sorry that this is confusing, but component procurement is getting more 
and more difficult as the industry moves to surface mount, and the 
sources of thru hole components is drying up.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2016 12:03 PM, Rick A. wrote:
Hi all, I am working on assembling my K2 and for component C73, 47uf, 
all I have in my kit is a yellow colored cap that has 470 on one side 
& 330 on the other side. My manual shows a disc type. Some other pics 
I have seen show a blue colored cap. I have no means of testing 
capacitance.

Rick
KC9LDP
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RF board

[Matt Maguire]

C73 should be 47pF, not 47uF, in which case, the marking "470" would mean the 
capacitor in (in pF) 47 followed by no zeros.
In the manual, it shows that for that group of capacitors, it could be a disc 
ceramic type OR a monolithic. Most likely it will be monolithic, either yellow 
or possibly blue.
Not sure why the part you mention has 330 on one side and 470 on the other. One 
helpful reason to do an inventory at the start is to help work out through a 
process of deduction/elimination how to interpret the markings in cases where 
there is ambiguity. Maybe if you posted a closeup picture of both sides we 
would help identify the part.
73, Matt VK2RQ

Sent from Outlook Mobile




On Sat, Feb 27, 2016 at 9:04 AM -0800, "Rick A."  wrote:










Hi all, I am working on assembling my K2 and for component C73, 47uf, 
all I have in my kit is a yellow colored cap that has 470 on one side & 
330 on the other side. My manual shows a disc type. Some other pics I 
have seen show a blue colored cap. I have no means of testing capacitance.
Rick
KC9LDP
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RF board

[Rick A.]

Hi all, I am working on assembling my K2 and for component C73, 47uf, 
all I have in my kit is a yellow colored cap that has 470 on one side & 
330 on the other side. My manual shows a disc type. Some other pics I 
have seen show a blue colored cap. I have no means of testing capacitance.

Rick
KC9LDP
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 For Sale

[Todd Brady]

For SaleElecraft K2 / 10 watt TranceiverOptions include SSB / 160 meter 
/KDSP2 /Internal ATU /RS232 / MH2 hand micBuilt by Larry (AE4LD) of LNR 
PrecisionAligned and calibrated by Don Wilhelm W3FPRLike new conditionPrice 
$750.00 & you pay to shipAdditional items to go with the K2 ...Vibroplex Code 
Warrior JR / Iambic Paddle ... $70.00OHR/WM-2 qrp watt meter w/ power on LED 
... $100.00Package price .. $900.00 and I'll pay USPS shippingPics of meter and 
paddle available upon request.PayPal OKPlease note: Radio must sell before I 
sell meter or paddle. Please contact me off list at n...@live.com   
  
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Aaron,
Let me be the naughty boy and speak the otherwise.
I once built a KDSP2 and eventually sold it in return for a KAF2.  I am mostly 
a phone operator and found the artifact from KDSP2 was terrible.  Especially in 
the NR noise reduction, no matter how I adjusted the settings, I was unable to 
find a sweet spot.
I eventually got a KAF2 at the second hand market (say USD45).  It was simple 
but effective in both CW and SSB. It was well worth the money.
My complaint about DSP artifacts also applied to K3.  I am looking forward to 
the improved audio hardware in K3S.
My good hearing up to 12Khz sometimes does give me some trouble in DSP 
artifacts.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
 
  寄件人︰ Mark E. Musick <markmus...@sbcglobal.net>
 收件人︰ 'Aaron Scott' <k5atg.aa...@gmail.com>; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2015年09月7日 (週一) 1:01 PM
 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615
   
Aaron,
I would not toss it.
I just got my K2 serial #5308 back from Don, W3FPR.
I bought it used and had Don to put additional options in it as I have bad
eyesight. It works great. I am very pleased with it.
He did a fantastic job and will work with you to get it right. He will even
build and install the SSB option for you. His prices are very reasonable.
Don is here on the reflector and has a website.
Send him an e-mail and see what you can work out with him.
You've got too much money tied up in the radio to just throw it in the
trash.

73,

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 5:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go over
it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for the
tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point that
if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it in the
trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a loss and
try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I am really
tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of frustration
instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

--
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG <http://k5atg.blogspot.com/>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Fred Jensen]

I'm really sorry your K2-build didn't go well. If you really want to 
trash it, I'll pay the postage, send it to me. :-)  There are a number 
of builders on this list, there's a compendium of them on the Elecraft 
web site [or was], and they range from building a kit from opening the 
boxes to finishing kits half-built.


I really recommend you investigate that, I love my K2 [4398], and it has 
gotten a lot of field use and on summits.  It's a great little radio you 
can hold in one hand with amazing operating characteristics.


Fred K6DGW
--Northern California Contest Club
--CU in the Cal QSO Party
--3-4 Oct 2015


On 9/6/2015 10:59 AM, Aaron Scott wrote:

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go
over it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for
the tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point
that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it
in the trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a
loss and try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I
am really tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of
frustration instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Mark E. Musick]

Aaron,
I would not toss it.
I just got my K2 serial #5308 back from Don, W3FPR.
I bought it used and had Don to put additional options in it as I have bad
eyesight. It works great. I am very pleased with it.
He did a fantastic job and will work with you to get it right. He will even
build and install the SSB option for you. His prices are very reasonable.
Don is here on the reflector and has a website.
Send him an e-mail and see what you can work out with him.
You've got too much money tied up in the radio to just throw it in the
trash.

73,

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 5:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go over
it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for the
tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point that
if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it in the
trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a loss and
try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I am really
tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of frustration
instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

--
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG <http://k5atg.blogspot.com/>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Aaron,
Just employ a builder to complete the project for you.  They charge you only a 
small fee.  If you are in the Asia Pacific region, you can send it to me to 
have a look.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
  寄件人︰ Aaron Scott <k5atg.aa...@gmail.com>
 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2015年09月7日 (週一) 1:59 AM
 主題︰ [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615
   
I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go
over it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for
the tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point
that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it
in the trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a
loss and try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I
am really tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of
frustration instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

-- 
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG <http://k5atg.blogspot.com/>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Aaron Scott]

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go
over it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for
the tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point
that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it
in the trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a
loss and try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I
am really tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of
frustration instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

-- 
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Gareth - M5KVK]

Heh Aaron
I'm really sorry you've had a bad experience. I too was pushed to the limit
constructing the K2, but I'm glad I persisted.

Luckily, you are in the best place to get support. I know that others more
experienced will be along to help you.

Hang in there.

73
Gareth, M5KVK

On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Aaron Scott  wrote:

> I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
> I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
> it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
> months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
> process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
> subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
> of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
> components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go
> over it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for
> the tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point
> that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it
> in the trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a
> loss and try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I
> am really tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of
> frustration instead of a way to communicate with the world.
> Please Help
>
> Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
> 2108 Turner dr
> Midwest City, OK 73110
>
> --
> '73
> Aaron Scott
> K5ATG 
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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> Message delivered to gareth.m5...@gmail.com 
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[mvolstad]

Ok, I'll bite. Why can't you get Elecraft to look at it?

Mark  AI4BJ

>> I'm at the point that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just 
>> going to dump it in the trash
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[ae4pb]

Perhaps ask someone to build it for you for a small fee? When you purchase a
radio as a kit it's expected that you ENJOY the construction/assembly
process. If that's not your thing then just find someone to build it for
you. 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2015 1:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go over
it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for the
tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point that
if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it in the
trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a loss and
try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I am really
tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of frustration
instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

--
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG <http://k5atg.blogspot.com/>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Jerry Moore]

Oh, and if you're going to dump it in the trash ship it to me and I'll see
what I can do. I've never seen nor built a K2 but if it's trash to you I
certainly can't hurt it. 
jer

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2015 1:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go over
it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for the
tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point that
if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it in the
trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a loss and
try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I am really
tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of frustration
instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

--
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG <http://k5atg.blogspot.com/>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Walter Underwood]

Elecraft publishes a list of people who will build or finish a K2 kit for you.

http://www.elecraft.com/k2_builders.htm

wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

On Sep 6, 2015, at 11:06 AM, Gareth - M5KVK  wrote:

> Heh Aaron
> I'm really sorry you've had a bad experience. I too was pushed to the limit
> constructing the K2, but I'm glad I persisted.
> 
> Luckily, you are in the best place to get support. I know that others more
> experienced will be along to help you.
> 
> Hang in there.
> 
> 73
> Gareth, M5KVK
> 
> On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Aaron Scott  wrote:
> 
>> I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
>> I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
>> it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
>> months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
>> process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
>> subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
>> of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
>> components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go
>> over it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for
>> the tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point
>> that if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it
>> in the trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a
>> loss and try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I
>> am really tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of
>> frustration instead of a way to communicate with the world.
>> Please Help
>> 
>> Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
>> 2108 Turner dr
>> Midwest City, OK 73110
>> 
>> --
>> '73
>> Aaron Scott
>> K5ATG 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> Message delivered to gareth.m5...@gmail.com 
>> 
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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2 FOR SALE

[KM4VX]

FS: ELECRAFT K2  WITH KAT100 AND KAP100 IN EC2 ENCLOSURE. K2 HAS KSB2 SSB
MODULE, K160RX 160 MODULE,  K6OXV 60 METER MODULE,  KNB2 NOISE BLANKER, 
KAT2 INTERNAL QRP TUNER,  KIO2 COMPUTER CONTROL MODULE, FD1MP FINGER DIMPLE
VFO KNOB AND MH2 ELECRAFT MIC. ALL CABLES AND MANUALS INCLUDED. K2 DOES NOT
RPT NOT HAVE INTERNAL BATTTERY MODULE.  K2 NEVER PORTABLE AND I AM ORIGINAL
OWNER. SERIAL NUMBER 57XX.  K2 PROFESSIONALLY BUILT BY DON WILHELM.
EVERYTHING IN PERFECT WORKING ORDER.  OVER $2,000.00 IN HARDWARE PLUS
BUILDING FEES.  FIRM PRICE $1,300.00 INCLUDING SHIPPING TO LOWER 48. SELLING
BECAUSE K2 RARELY USED (MOSTLY ON WSPR AT 5 WATTS) AND I HAVE A K3 WITH
HOPES OF PURCHASING A K3S SOON. PHOTO ON QRZ.COM FOR KM4VX IS K2 FOR SALE.
PLS REPLY OFF-LINE ronce...@outlook.com OR (910) 793-9043. THANKS AND 73.
RON KM4VX



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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RS232 serial port on pc

[Kevin Schache]

I've successfully completed my K2 and tests appear ok.
Added SSB board and that's ok too.
Then built KAT100-1  an KAT102 and also tests ok.,
But now, connect to Computer and bother I didn't think to check!
No serial connection on the computers

What's the recommendation?
An RS232 serial to USB adapter?
Reading the archives it appears this could create problems.

I've two computers, a desktop HP Compaq Presario and a laptop, SONY VAIO 
E series both running MSWindows V7, neither have serial ports.


Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks
Kev   VK5KS
K2 #7552

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RS232 serial port on pc

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

On the Sony laptop, you will need to get a USB to serial cord. Be sure to
get an adapter with an FTDI chipset. There always seem to be issues with
drivers, including one that would brick the adapter. I don't know where
that issue got to. The CURRENT model being sold by Elecraft seems to be
working ok. Use their supplied driver.

If your HP desktop has a spare slot, install a serial card with two or four
REAL RS232 serial ports. RS232 is a totally stable interface that hasn't
been changed even a little in many years. Nobody is trying to adapt RS232
to some new hardware, like what goes on in the world of USB all the time.
In my own case, RS232-land became refreshingly boring and non-problematic
when I installed a 2 port serial card. They are assigned COM1 and COM2 in
the bios boot-up, which go to my K3 and K2 respectively, and there are none
of the where-did-my-com-port-go issues. My Microham u2R has a USB interface
which has been tamed nicely and handles the rest of the signal lines. It
has been rock solid with zero issues.

*** Very Important ***  You will NOT be able to plug any standard DB9 RS232
into the K2's DB9 socket on the back. Do that and you burn stuff. You MUST
use the special Y cord to split up the RS232 signals and the proprietary
signals. See the KIO2 manual...

  http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KIO2%20man%20rev%20C%20.pdf

...beginning on page 12, for a description of the cord specifics.

73, Guy





On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 6:58 AM, Kevin Schache hillsla...@internode.on.net
wrote:

 I've successfully completed my K2 and tests appear ok.
 Added SSB board and that's ok too.
 Then built KAT100-1  an KAT102 and also tests ok.,
 But now, connect to Computer and bother I didn't think to check!
 No serial connection on the computers

 What's the recommendation?
 An RS232 serial to USB adapter?
 Reading the archives it appears this could create problems.

 I've two computers, a desktop HP Compaq Presario and a laptop, SONY VAIO E
 series both running MSWindows V7, neither have serial ports.

 Any suggestions would be welcome.

 Thanks
 Kev   VK5KS
 K2 #7552

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RS232 serial port on pc

[Matthew Pitts via Elecraft]

The FTDI driver that could brick the counterfeit FTDI chips has been pulled. 
Whether that is good or bad remains to be seen. Matthew PittsN8OHU


  From: Guy Olinger K2AV k2av@gmail.com
 To: Kevin Schache hillsla...@internode.on.net 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 11:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 RS232 serial port on pc
   
On the Sony laptop, you will need to get a USB to serial cord. Be sure to
get an adapter with an FTDI chipset. There always seem to be issues with
drivers, including one that would brick the adapter. I don't know where
that issue got to. The CURRENT model being sold by Elecraft seems to be
working ok. Use their supplied driver.

If your HP desktop has a spare slot, install a serial card with two or four
REAL RS232 serial ports. RS232 is a totally stable interface that hasn't
been changed even a little in many years. Nobody is trying to adapt RS232
to some new hardware, like what goes on in the world of USB all the time.
In my own case, RS232-land became refreshingly boring and non-problematic
when I installed a 2 port serial card. They are assigned COM1 and COM2 in
the bios boot-up, which go to my K3 and K2 respectively, and there are none
of the where-did-my-com-port-go issues. My Microham u2R has a USB interface
which has been tamed nicely and handles the rest of the signal lines. It
has been rock solid with zero issues.

*** Very Important ***  You will NOT be able to plug any standard DB9 RS232
into the K2's DB9 socket on the back. Do that and you burn stuff. You MUST
use the special Y cord to split up the RS232 signals and the proprietary
signals. See the KIO2 manual...

  http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KIO2%20man%20rev%20C%20.pdf

...beginning on page 12, for a description of the cord specifics.

73, Guy





On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 6:58 AM, Kevin Schache hillsla...@internode.on.net
wrote:

 I've successfully completed my K2 and tests appear ok.
 Added SSB board and that's ok too.
 Then built KAT100-1  an KAT102 and also tests ok.,
 But now, connect to Computer and bother I didn't think to check!
 No serial connection on the computers

 What's the recommendation?
 An RS232 serial to USB adapter?
 Reading the archives it appears this could create problems.

 I've two computers, a desktop HP Compaq Presario and a laptop, SONY VAIO E
 series both running MSWindows V7, neither have serial ports.

 Any suggestions would be welcome.

 Thanks
 Kev  VK5KS
 K2 #7552

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

The web pages have gone away, but the instructions are quite easy.
First, you need the KIO2 installed in the base K2.

Build the KAT100-2, just follow instructions - build the cable for the 
KAT100 as instructed in the manual.  Test and align it with the K2/10 at 
10 watts - the RF output from the K2 will be from ANT1 if you have the 
KAT2 installed.


Then build the KPA100.  Do the alignment, test and calibration with it 
connected as normal to the base K2.


Then install the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure.  It plugs right into the 
KAT100-2  You will have to remove pin 4 from the ribbon cable connector.


Connect a BNC to BNC cable between the base K2 ANT1 connector, a short 
UHF to UHF cable between the KPA100 ANT jack to the KAT100 RF IN jack.  
The control cable connector with the two cables plugs into the KIO2 and 
the other male connector plugs into either the KAT100 or the KPA100 DB-9 
connector.


The K2 senses the presence of both the KPA100 and the KAT2 and 
automatically forces the KAT2 to bypass and ANT1.  Operation is 
automatic and seamless.
To use the K2/10 for portable operation, remove the BNC cable from ANT1 
and remove the control cable - the K2 will then revert to the 10 watt 
transceiver with the KAT2 active.


Normally in the external KAT100-2/KPA100 combination, the power for the 
KAT100 comes through the KPA100 APP power cable.  If you want to set it 
up so the K2 will revert to low power automatically if the AC powered 
large power supply goes down in an AC power failure, you must power 
*both* the base K2 and the KAT100 from a battery backed supply.  The 
switch to low power will then be automatic if the large power source 
goes down.


Even though the KPA100 duplicates the AUX IO port of the KIO2, the 
computer connection part of that connector will not be functional when 
mounted in the EC2 enclosure.  Computer communications must be from the 
KIO2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2015 12:42 AM, Brian Denley wrote:

I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to be 
some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find them.  
As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the KIOS cable 
but do I need to disable my KAT2?




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Matt VK2RQ]

So Don, that seems to imply that if you want to do CAT control of the K2 with 
an external EC2 enclosure, you need to make up a special cable that plugs in to 
the basic K2 K2IO connector and breaks out the computer control lines to one 
DB9 serial port connector, and runs the rest of the lines to the EC2 enclosure. 
Am I understanding this correctly?

Also, if a KPA100 was installed in the EC2 enclosure, it is possible to switch 
the lid of the EC2 over to the K2/10 in order to get a K2/100? Of course, this 
would mean leaving the KAT100 behind in the EC2 enclosure. Maybe the KAT100 
could be put in a EC1 enclosure, so the home config is K2/10 + KPA100 in EC2 + 
KAT100 in EC1, and the portable QRO config is K2/100 + optional KAT100 in EC1. 

73, Matt VK2RQ

 On 4 Jan 2015, at 7:59 am, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Brian,
 
 The web pages have gone away, but the instructions are quite easy.
 First, you need the KIO2 installed in the base K2.
 
 Build the KAT100-2, just follow instructions - build the cable for the KAT100 
 as instructed in the manual.  Test and align it with the K2/10 at 10 watts - 
 the RF output from the K2 will be from ANT1 if you have the KAT2 installed.
 
 Then build the KPA100.  Do the alignment, test and calibration with it 
 connected as normal to the base K2.
 
 Then install the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure.  It plugs right into the 
 KAT100-2  You will have to remove pin 4 from the ribbon cable connector.
 
 Connect a BNC to BNC cable between the base K2 ANT1 connector, a short UHF to 
 UHF cable between the KPA100 ANT jack to the KAT100 RF IN jack.  The control 
 cable connector with the two cables plugs into the KIO2 and the other male 
 connector plugs into either the KAT100 or the KPA100 DB-9 connector.
 
 The K2 senses the presence of both the KPA100 and the KAT2 and automatically 
 forces the KAT2 to bypass and ANT1.  Operation is automatic and seamless.
 To use the K2/10 for portable operation, remove the BNC cable from ANT1 and 
 remove the control cable - the K2 will then revert to the 10 watt transceiver 
 with the KAT2 active.
 
 Normally in the external KAT100-2/KPA100 combination, the power for the 
 KAT100 comes through the KPA100 APP power cable.  If you want to set it up so 
 the K2 will revert to low power automatically if the AC powered large power 
 supply goes down in an AC power failure, you must power *both* the base K2 
 and the KAT100 from a battery backed supply.  The switch to low power will 
 then be automatic if the large power source goes down.
 
 Even though the KPA100 duplicates the AUX IO port of the KIO2, the computer 
 connection part of that connector will not be functional when mounted in the 
 EC2 enclosure.  Computer communications must be from the KIO2.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/4/2015 12:42 AM, Brian Denley wrote:
 I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to 
 be some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find 
 them.  As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the 
 KIOS cable but do I need to disable my KAT2?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

The control cable should be constructed exactly like the one shown in 
the KAT100 manual.
The construction of the cable breaks out the pins used for the computer 
communications (2, 3, and 5) in the 'tail' which connects to the computer.
The other pins connect to the 'KAT100 tail' and contain the K2 control 
signals necessary to communicate with the KPA100 and KAT100.


The EC1 enclosure will not work - that enclosure is sized the same as 
the K1.
If you want to build the KAT100 into a smaller case, order the KAT100-1 
kit.  If you already have the KAT100-2, you can order the case 
components for the KAT100-1.
Elecraft does sell a kit to convert a KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2, but not 
the other way around.


So, if your desire is for a portable K2/100 plus KAT100, the smallest 
form factor is with the KPA100 mounted on the base K2 and a KAT100-1.
I think one would not build the KPA100 and KAT100-2 in an EC2 enclosure 
unless the desire is to retain the K2/10 for portable operation.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/4/2015 8:26 AM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

So Don, that seems to imply that if you want to do CAT control of the K2 with 
an external EC2 enclosure, you need to make up a special cable that plugs in to 
the basic K2 K2IO connector and breaks out the computer control lines to one 
DB9 serial port connector, and runs the rest of the lines to the EC2 enclosure. 
Am I understanding this correctly?

Also, if a KPA100 was installed in the EC2 enclosure, it is possible to switch 
the lid of the EC2 over to the K2/10 in order to get a K2/100? Of course, this 
would mean leaving the KAT100 behind in the EC2 enclosure. Maybe the KAT100 
could be put in a EC1 enclosure, so the home config is K2/10 + KPA100 in EC2 + 
KAT100 in EC1, and the portable QRO config is K2/100 + optional KAT100 in EC1.




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Michael Eberle]

Brian,

Here is a website with some pictures of a KAT100 and KPA100 in an EC2 
enclosure.  This is what helped me figure out how to do it.


http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

I have my ATU setting set on Auto.  I believe that if the K2 detects the 
KAT100 it will use it instead of the KAT2.


Mike
KI0HA

On 1/3/2015 23:42, Brian Denley wrote:

I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to be 
some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find them.  
As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the KIOS cable 
but do I need to disable my KAT2?

Thanks for any advice.

Brian KB1VBF



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Johnny Siu]

For somebody considering KAT100+KPA100 in a separated enclosure, KXPA100 + 
internal ATU or Hardrock 50 + internal ATU could be alternatives.  They are 
separated stand alone linear amplifiers as well.
These alternatives can also be used with other radios and sold easily in the 
second hand market if they become surplus in the future.
The application of KAT100+KPA100 is only restricted to K2.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
   寄件人︰ Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com
 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2015年01月5日 (週一) 4:13 AM
 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2
   
Brian,

Here is a website with some pictures of a KAT100 and KPA100 in an EC2 
enclosure.  This is what helped me figure out how to do it.

http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

I have my ATU setting set on Auto.  I believe that if the K2 detects the 
KAT100 it will use it instead of the KAT2.

Mike
KI0HA

On 1/3/2015 23:42, Brian Denley wrote:
 I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to 
 be some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find 
 them.  As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the KIOS 
 cable but do I need to disable my KAT2?

 Thanks for any advice.

 Brian KB1VBF

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Brian Denley]

Thanks Johnny and Mike.

Brian KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 4, 2015, at 5:40 PM, Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk wrote:
 
 For somebody considering KAT100+KPA100 in a separated enclosure, KXPA100 + 
 internal ATU or Hardrock 50 + internal ATU could be alternatives.  They are 
 separated stand alone linear amplifiers as well.
 These alternatives can also be used with other radios and sold easily in the 
 second hand market if they become surplus in the future.
 The application of KAT100+KPA100 is only restricted to K2.
 73
 Johnny VR2XMC
寄件人︰ Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com
 收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2015年01月5日 (週一) 4:13 AM
 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2
 
 Brian,
 
 Here is a website with some pictures of a KAT100 and KPA100 in an EC2 
 enclosure.  This is what helped me figure out how to do it.
 
 http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/
 
 I have my ATU setting set on Auto.  I believe that if the K2 detects the 
 KAT100 it will use it instead of the KAT2.
 
 Mike
 KI0HA
 
 On 1/3/2015 23:42, Brian Denley wrote:
 I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to 
 be some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find 
 them.  As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the 
 KIOS cable but do I need to disable my KAT2?
 
 Thanks for any advice.
 
 Brian KB1VBF
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Brian Denley]

Don:
Thanks for all that information.  My K2 has the KIO2 and I am building the 
KAT100 in the EC2 next week.  On you last paragraph:  will I still be able to 
use the 'Twins' setup under computer control through the KIO2?

Brian KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 4, 2015, at 7:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Brian,
 
 The web pages have gone away, but the instructions are quite easy.
 First, you need the KIO2 installed in the base K2.
 
 Build the KAT100-2, just follow instructions - build the cable for the KAT100 
 as instructed in the manual.  Test and align it with the K2/10 at 10 watts - 
 the RF output from the K2 will be from ANT1 if you have the KAT2 installed.
 
 Then build the KPA100.  Do the alignment, test and calibration with it 
 connected as normal to the base K2.
 
 Then install the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure.  It plugs right into the 
 KAT100-2  You will have to remove pin 4 from the ribbon cable connector.
 
 Connect a BNC to BNC cable between the base K2 ANT1 connector, a short UHF to 
 UHF cable between the KPA100 ANT jack to the KAT100 RF IN jack.  The control 
 cable connector with the two cables plugs into the KIO2 and the other male 
 connector plugs into either the KAT100 or the KPA100 DB-9 connector.
 
 The K2 senses the presence of both the KPA100 and the KAT2 and automatically 
 forces the KAT2 to bypass and ANT1.  Operation is automatic and seamless.
 To use the K2/10 for portable operation, remove the BNC cable from ANT1 and 
 remove the control cable - the K2 will then revert to the 10 watt transceiver 
 with the KAT2 active.
 
 Normally in the external KAT100-2/KPA100 combination, the power for the 
 KAT100 comes through the KPA100 APP power cable.  If you want to set it up so 
 the K2 will revert to low power automatically if the AC powered large power 
 supply goes down in an AC power failure, you must power *both* the base K2 
 and the KAT100 from a battery backed supply.  The switch to low power will 
 then be automatic if the large power source goes down.
 
 Even though the KPA100 duplicates the AUX IO port of the KIO2, the computer 
 connection part of that connector will not be functional when mounted in the 
 EC2 enclosure.  Computer communications must be from the KIO2.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/4/2015 12:42 AM, Brian Denley wrote:
 I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to 
 be some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find 
 them.  As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the 
 KIOS cable but do I need to disable my KAT2?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

Yes, certainly - you expand the computer cable that you are now using 
with the pigtail to the KAT100 - as shown in the KAT100 manual.  The K2 
operates as normal.
The control cable connector with the two cables in it must connect to 
the KIO2.


My point was only that:
The TTL to RS-232 converter chip in the KPA100 cannot be used for 
computer control with the KPA100 mounted in the EC2 enclosure.  That 
part is only functional when the KPA100 is mounted on the base K2 (with 
the external mounting, there are no TXD and RXD signals sent to the KPA100).


So you get your computer communications from the KIO2, and not from the 
KPA100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2015 6:08 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

Don:
Thanks for all that information.  My K2 has the KIO2 and I am building the 
KAT100 in the EC2 next week.  On you last paragraph:  will I still be able to 
use the 'Twins' setup under computer control through the KIO2?

Brian KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad


On Jan 4, 2015, at 7:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

Brian,

The web pages have gone away, but the instructions are quite easy.
First, you need the KIO2 installed in the base K2.

Build the KAT100-2, just follow instructions - build the cable for the KAT100 
as instructed in the manual.  Test and align it with the K2/10 at 10 watts - 
the RF output from the K2 will be from ANT1 if you have the KAT2 installed.

Then build the KPA100.  Do the alignment, test and calibration with it 
connected as normal to the base K2.

Then install the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure.  It plugs right into the KAT100-2 
 You will have to remove pin 4 from the ribbon cable connector.

Connect a BNC to BNC cable between the base K2 ANT1 connector, a short UHF to 
UHF cable between the KPA100 ANT jack to the KAT100 RF IN jack.  The control 
cable connector with the two cables plugs into the KIO2 and the other male 
connector plugs into either the KAT100 or the KPA100 DB-9 connector.

The K2 senses the presence of both the KPA100 and the KAT2 and automatically 
forces the KAT2 to bypass and ANT1.  Operation is automatic and seamless.
To use the K2/10 for portable operation, remove the BNC cable from ANT1 and 
remove the control cable - the K2 will then revert to the 10 watt transceiver 
with the KAT2 active.

Normally in the external KAT100-2/KPA100 combination, the power for the KAT100 
comes through the KPA100 APP power cable.  If you want to set it up so the K2 
will revert to low power automatically if the AC powered large power supply 
goes down in an AC power failure, you must power *both* the base K2 and the 
KAT100 from a battery backed supply.  The switch to low power will then be 
automatic if the large power source goes down.

Even though the KPA100 duplicates the AUX IO port of the KIO2, the computer 
connection part of that connector will not be functional when mounted in the 
EC2 enclosure.  Computer communications must be from the KIO2.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 1/4/2015 12:42 AM, Brian Denley wrote:
I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to be 
some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find them.  
As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the KIOS cable 
but do I need to disable my KAT2?




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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Brian Denley]

Don:
That's what I thought from the KAT100 manual.  Thanks!
Brian
KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 4, 2015, at 6:41 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Brian,
 
 Yes, certainly - you expand the computer cable that you are now using with 
 the pigtail to the KAT100 - as shown in the KAT100 manual.  The K2 operates 
 as normal.
 The control cable connector with the two cables in it must connect to the 
 KIO2.
 
 My point was only that:
 The TTL to RS-232 converter chip in the KPA100 cannot be used for computer 
 control with the KPA100 mounted in the EC2 enclosure.  That part is only 
 functional when the KPA100 is mounted on the base K2 (with the external 
 mounting, there are no TXD and RXD signals sent to the KPA100).
 
 So you get your computer communications from the KIO2, and not from the 
 KPA100.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/4/2015 6:08 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
 Don:
 Thanks for all that information.  My K2 has the KIO2 and I am building the 
 KAT100 in the EC2 next week.  On you last paragraph:  will I still be able 
 to use the 'Twins' setup under computer control through the KIO2?
 
 Brian KB1VBF
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Jan 4, 2015, at 7:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 
 Brian,
 
 The web pages have gone away, but the instructions are quite easy.
 First, you need the KIO2 installed in the base K2.
 
 Build the KAT100-2, just follow instructions - build the cable for the 
 KAT100 as instructed in the manual.  Test and align it with the K2/10 at 10 
 watts - the RF output from the K2 will be from ANT1 if you have the KAT2 
 installed.
 
 Then build the KPA100.  Do the alignment, test and calibration with it 
 connected as normal to the base K2.
 
 Then install the KPA100 in the EC2 enclosure.  It plugs right into the 
 KAT100-2  You will have to remove pin 4 from the ribbon cable connector.
 
 Connect a BNC to BNC cable between the base K2 ANT1 connector, a short UHF 
 to UHF cable between the KPA100 ANT jack to the KAT100 RF IN jack.  The 
 control cable connector with the two cables plugs into the KIO2 and the 
 other male connector plugs into either the KAT100 or the KPA100 DB-9 
 connector.
 
 The K2 senses the presence of both the KPA100 and the KAT2 and 
 automatically forces the KAT2 to bypass and ANT1.  Operation is automatic 
 and seamless.
 To use the K2/10 for portable operation, remove the BNC cable from ANT1 and 
 remove the control cable - the K2 will then revert to the 10 watt 
 transceiver with the KAT2 active.
 
 Normally in the external KAT100-2/KPA100 combination, the power for the 
 KAT100 comes through the KPA100 APP power cable.  If you want to set it up 
 so the K2 will revert to low power automatically if the AC powered large 
 power supply goes down in an AC power failure, you must power *both* the 
 base K2 and the KAT100 from a battery backed supply.  The switch to low 
 power will then be automatic if the large power source goes down.
 
 Even though the KPA100 duplicates the AUX IO port of the KIO2, the computer 
 connection part of that connector will not be functional when mounted in 
 the EC2 enclosure.  Computer communications must be from the KIO2.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/4/2015 12:42 AM, Brian Denley wrote:
 I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used 
 to be some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer 
 find them.  As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from 
 the KIOS cable but do I need to disable my KAT2?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT]K2

[Matt VK2RQ]

(looks like the message only came to me, but was intended for a wider audience, 
so I’ll reply to the Elecraft list)

If you followed the procedure “exactly like described in the manual”, then this 
will get you on air, but may not give the optimum result. You should use 
Spectrogram or something similar, so you can visually that it has been set up 
properly. There is some information on doing this here:
http://www.w3fpr.com/step_3.html http://www.w3fpr.com/step_3.html

73, Matt VK2RQ

 On 3 Jan 2015, at 6:35 am, Behiels jean-Pierre on4...@telenet.be wrote:
 
 image001.jpg
  
  
 Hi K2 members and users;
  
 Majory I like to receive some impressions and experiences from other K2 users.
 I bought quit a year ago a K2 kit,witch operates fabulous no matter about 
 that.
 But after playing around a while in CW and SSB I like to talk about my 
 experiences around the receiving signals !
 I now,the K2 above all is a CW radio not a SSB radio ,some guys told me 
 before (I hope to is true,correct me if I am wrong hi )
 Every time I switch between CW and SSB mode I do have the idee I receive a 
 lot more on SSB
 I always receive the impression that the bandwidth on CW is to small for 
 confortable listening to CW signals ?
 When I switch to SSB and tune to the same received signal,it sounds more 
 comfortable on my ears 
 Before giving remarks around,I must told and I can confirm that all my 
 settings have been done “exactly like described in the manual” .
 I have always the impression there is something wrong on CW mode and 
 specially around receiving CW signals.
 I now that the bandwidth of the filters for CW are smaller than those for SSB 
 use ?
 It always could be possible that I have not any confidance with those manner 
 of receiving signals.
 But I do play CW more than 35 years now hi.. 
 But I must say,I like more the CW receiving signals on a old FT1000D than on 
 my K2 ?
 I do hear a lot of more signals in SSB mode,also from nabers behind and 
 around the band.
 Also tune-in exactly on a CW signal is more easyer in SSB than in CW mode due 
 the fact of bandwidth !!.
 In CW I loose very quick the CW signal by tuning on the VFO dial !!
 The CW signal dissepears quickly by turning around,this is somethimes 
 difficult by very small signal strengths.
 In SSB I do have not this matter,I found every signal very quickly back even 
 when spotted on a wrong DX cluster frequency hi hi (what happens somethimes 
 by use of a DX cluster)
 I easy loose somethimes a CW station and it is difficult to find it again but 
 turning around even with the dial is his smallest tuning range.
 I am quit sure there is nothing around about failures or so,on my homebuild 
 K2 kit but I found this sometimes reason to some confusion by listening the 
 CW small signals
 I am curious of some K2 users have the same impressions ?
 And of couse I am not God but it could always be possible that I have do 
 something wrong in the allignement of the filters or so.
 This last depense on,how I have understood the allignement procedure 
 correctly !!!
 Behind this story I stay a big Elecraft fan nothing about that,it stays for 
 my a fabulous and well engineered radio and building kit !!
  
 Happy new year to the whole Elecraft team and members and users.
  
  
 73’s Jean ON4AEF.

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT]K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Jean,

It sounds like the variable width filters are always narrow or that you 
have some other filter problem.  The easiest way to understand what is 
happening is to use Spectrogram to observe the filter passband.  Go to 
my website www.w3fpr.com and you can find links to 2 freeware versions 
of Spectrogram near the bottom of the opening page.  If you are running 
Linux, it will run under WINE.  If you are running a MAC, you will have 
to find an alternate audio spectrum analyzer.


You could do a quick check on the variable filter without Spectrogram.  
Measure the voltage on D31, D31, D32, and D33 as you change from one CW 
filter to another.  If the voltage is always zero or does not change, 
then the control voltage to the filter is not working (zero voltage will 
mean that the filter width will always be very narrow).


One temporary work-around is to use the OP1 filter for wide CW 
reception.   Change the CW FL1 filter to OP1 and use the same BFO 
settings that you have set for SSB FL1.  CW is LSB and CW REV is USB.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2015 6:40 AM, Behiels jean-Pierre wrote:


Hi K2 members and users;

Majory I like to receive some impressions and experiences from other 
K2 users.


I bought quit a year ago a K2 kit,witch operates fabulous no matter 
about that.


But after playing around a while in CW and SSB I like to talk about my 
experiences around the receiving signals !


I now,the K2 above all is a CW radio not a SSB radio ,some guys told 
me before (I hope to is true,correct me if I am wrong hi )


Every time I switch between CW and SSB mode I do have the idee I 
receive a lot more on SSB


I always receive the impression that the bandwidth on CW is to small 
for confortable listening to CW signals ?


When I switch to SSB and tune to the same received signal,it sounds 
more comfortable on my ears


Before giving remarks around,I must told and I can confirm that all my 
settings have been done “exactly like described in the manual” .
I have always the impression there is something wrong on CW mode and 
specially around receiving CW signals.





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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2

[Brian Denley]

I am building a KAT100 and KPA100 in an separate EC2 housing.  There used to be 
some websites with details on this arrangement but I can no longer find them.  
As I understand things, the KPA100 / KAT100 will operate from the KIOS cable 
but do I need to disable my KAT2?

Thanks for any advice.

Brian KB1VBF

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT]K2

[Bill Frantz]

On 1/3/15 at 6:00 AM, w3...@embarqmail.com (Don Wilhelm) wrote:


If you are running a MAC, you will have to find an alternate audio spectrum 
analyzer.


cocoaModem has a spectrum display in its Window-Config panel 
covering about 0 to 2800 Hz. I don't know if this will do the 
job, but the cost is right.


73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz|After all, if the conventional wisdom was 
working, the
408-356-8506   | rate of systems being compromised would be 
going down,

www.pwpconsult.com | wouldn't it? -- Marcus Ranum

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Re: [Elecraft] (Elecraft) K2 Build #7552

[Don Wilhelm]

Kevin,

You have a K2 with the new encoder board.  If the leads on that encoder 
board and the area of the Control board directly behind it are not flush 
trimmed (really, really flush trimmed), the two will make contact and 
'strange things will happen'.  Yes, the tools list does not include 
flush trimmers, but you will need them.
Inexpensive flush trimmers can often be found in the electrical tools 
department of your local DIY store (at least here in the US Home Depot 
carries them) - look for Xcelite (or Lufkin or Cooper) 170M - it may be 
packaged with a pair of small needlenose pliers.


Try putting some insulator between the encoder board and the control 
board to test and see if that cures the fault condition.  There is not 
much clearance and you may not be able to put the screws in the control 
board while doing that test.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/27/2014 1:15 AM, Kevin Schache wrote:

Hi to all,

Firstly, let me introduce myself.
I'm an 80 year old ham first licensed 1960, never very active on the 
bands, more of a builder than a contest DX-er, and even that building 
lapsed about 20 years ago until recently.
it seems that building an Elecraft K2 had been on my to do list since 
it first appeared around the 1990s and now at last it's on it's way!!!


K2 Build #7552 is proceeding nicely, even if somewhat slower than 
average.
The Control Board and Front Panel Assembly completed and Alignment and 
Test Part 1 successfully completed up to 'Tap the PRE/ATTN switch 
three times'. (page 44).


Now comes the first sign of a problem - no relay switching heard when 
I tap the PRE/ATTN switch.


Ok, so now I'm off to check out that Front Panel board around that 
switch.


I'd also like to say that I have been very impressed by the very 
professional nature of the kit and its manual.
It was no small risk for someone of my age  to outlay the necessary 
capital in the hope that I could manage the construction and I am 
finding huge satisfaction and enjoyment from the project.

Well done Elecraft!!!

73,

Kev
VK5KS



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Re: [Elecraft] (Elecraft) K2 Build #7552

[Bob]

Hi,

  These also have the 170 number so may be of similar design.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8psc=1

   I've got good service from these, even abusing them.  If your a Prime 
member or get to the free shipping level at $4.37 these are almost throw 
away's.  Surprisingly they are made in Italy not China.


73,
Bob
K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956)  K2TKR


On 9/27/2014 8:47 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kevin,

You have a K2 with the new encoder board.  If the leads on that encoder board 
and the area of the Control board directly behind it are not flush trimmed 
(really, really flush trimmed), the two will make contact and 'strange things 
will happen'.  Yes, the tools list does not include flush trimmers, but you 
will need them.
Inexpensive flush trimmers can often be found in the electrical tools 
department of your local DIY store (at least here in the US Home Depot carries 
them) - look for Xcelite (or Lufkin or Cooper) 170M - it may be packaged with 
a pair of small needlenose pliers.


Try putting some insulator between the encoder board and the control board to 
test and see if that cures the fault condition. There is not much clearance 
and you may not be able to put the screws in the control board while doing 
that test.


73,
Don W3FPR



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[Elecraft] (Elecraft) K2 Build #7552

[Kevin Schache]

Hi to all,

Firstly, let me introduce myself.
I'm an 80 year old ham first licensed 1960, never very active on the 
bands, more of a builder than a contest DX-er, and even that building 
lapsed about 20 years ago until recently.
it seems that building an Elecraft K2 had been on my to do list since it 
first appeared around the 1990s and now at last it's on it's way!!!


K2 Build #7552 is proceeding nicely, even if somewhat slower than average.
The Control Board and Front Panel Assembly completed and Alignment and 
Test Part 1 successfully completed up to 'Tap the PRE/ATTN switch three 
times'. (page 44).


Now comes the first sign of a problem - no relay switching heard when I 
tap the PRE/ATTN switch.


Ok, so now I'm off to check out that Front Panel board around that 
switch.


I'd also like to say that I have been very impressed by the very 
professional nature of the kit and its manual.
It was no small risk for someone of my age  to outlay the necessary 
capital in the hope that I could manage the construction and I am 
finding huge satisfaction and enjoyment from the project.

Well done Elecraft!!!

73,

Kev
VK5KS

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

[Robert S. McCuskey]

Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2  -  SOLD -  Thanks .   73, W7BV

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

[Robert S. McCuskey]

Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

F/S PRICE REDUCED:  Elecraft K2 10 watt 160-10 meter transceiver with the
KPA100 100 watt internal amplifier and KAT100 internal auto antenna tuner in
a separate  matching EC2 case. . For pictures, see listing on www.eham.net.
The units when separated return the K2 to a 10 watt QRP rig. The rig is in
excellent operational and physical condition from a non-smoking environment.
The K2 (S/N 6385) has the following installed: KAT2 20W internal tuner,
K160RX 160M, 2nd RX Antenna Option,  KNB2 Noise Blanker, KSB2 SSB Module,
KDSP2 DSP filter and clock, KIO2 RS232 Serial adapter, KBT2 internal battery
option (but without battery), N8BX Heavy Weight VFO tuning knob and original
knob,  latest firmware Version 2.04, aligned by  W3FPR , no microphone.
All interconnecting cables, manuals, Nifty-Mini Manual  are provided. Reason
for selling is that it is excess to my needs since  I am now using  a KX3
and KXPA100 as  my backup and portable rig.  Current price for this rig with
the options listed is $2400 plus shipping. PRICE REDUCED: I'm now asking
$1300 shipped USPS Priority Mail in  CONUS.  PayPal preferred or USPS Money
Order.  Please reply off list to w7bv at comcast dot net.Thanks and 73,
Bob  W7BV

 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 filters?

[gavin barbara williams]

As far I know I cannot see any filter options for the K2, am I correct?
 
Currently looking at a K2 sn low 4XXX.
 
It is advertised as It has 1.7kHz, 700Hz, 400Hz and 100Hz filters fitted
.
 
Is this possible.
 
Thanks  Gavin ZL1BBW
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 filters?

[Mike K8CN]

Gavin,
The K2 uses a single voltage-variable capacitance (varicap) diode-tuned
crystal filter on the main RF board, and the filter bandwidths are
programmable by the user within a moderate range.  A separate fixed
bandwidth crystal filter is present on the KSB2 SSB option board if
installed.  A no additional equipment procedure for adjusting the variable
bandwidth filter is described in the K2 manual, but most operators use a
computer-based spectrum analysis tool (e.g. Spectrogram) to visualize the
filter passband while the tuning adjustment is being made.  Check out Don,
W3FPR's web page (http://w3fpr.com/) for a link to the free versions of
Spectrogram and tips on adjusting the K2 filter settings for different modes
and desired bandwidths.  

73,
Mike, K8CN



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 filters?

[Matt VK2RQ]

In addition to the tuneable IF crystal filter, there are the KAF2 and KDSP 
audio filter option (check out the Elecraft website for details).

73, Matt VK2RQ

 On 2 Jun 2014, at 11:38 am, Mike K8CN mike.car...@unh.edu wrote:
 
 Gavin,
 The K2 uses a single voltage-variable capacitance (varicap) diode-tuned
 crystal filter on the main RF board, and the filter bandwidths are
 programmable by the user within a moderate range.  A separate fixed
 bandwidth crystal filter is present on the KSB2 SSB option board if
 installed.  A no additional equipment procedure for adjusting the variable
 bandwidth filter is described in the K2 manual, but most operators use a
 computer-based spectrum analysis tool (e.g. Spectrogram) to visualize the
 filter passband while the tuning adjustment is being made.  Check out Don,
 W3FPR's web page (http://w3fpr.com/) for a link to the free versions of
 Spectrogram and tips on adjusting the K2 filter settings for different modes
 and desired bandwidths.  
 
 73,
 Mike, K8CN
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 filters?

[Don Wilhelm]

Gavin,

As has been explained by a couple others, the K2 filters (other than the 
OP1 filter on the KSB2 option board) are entirely user configurable - 
you can set the filter width and the filter center frequency as you 
desire.  You can find information for doing that at my website 
www.w3fpr.com in part 3 of the article on K2 Dial Calibration.  If you 
need Spectrogram, the download link to my local files can be found near 
the bottom of the opening page.


Additional information on aligning the K2 filters can be found on Tom 
Hammond N0SS's (SK) website.  The content of his website is being 
preserved by the Mid-Missouri Radio Club as part of their website - see 
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/1/2014 9:17 PM, gavin  barbara williams wrote:

As far I know I cannot see any filter options for the K2, am I correct?
  
Currently looking at a K2 sn low 4XXX.
  
It is advertised as It has 1.7kHz, 700Hz, 400Hz and 100Hz filters fitted

.
  
Is this possible.
  



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[Elecraft] Elecraft] K2 For Sale

[Tony Castellano]

Since I began using my KX3, I seldom use my K2 and have decided to sell it.
I built it about 3 years ago and am very pleased with it’s performance.
It has always been in a non-smoking environment.
I am a graduate EE and have built many kits throughout the years including 2 
K2’s and a K1. One of the K2’s was for my wife

W1ALI who gets a lot of enjoyment out of it.
This K2, serial number 7172, includes the following:
   K2 Transceiver (10 Watts)
   KAF2  Internal Audio Filter and Real Time Clock
   KAT2 Automatic Antenna Tuner
   KNB2 Noise Blanker
   Torroids  Wound By Mychael Morohovich

I am asking $650 and will ship it free anywhere in the continental US.

I will consider any reasonable offer.

Tony Castellano W1ZMB
tcaste...@optonline.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC

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[Elecraft] Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Steve Anne Ray]

I got tired of reaching behind to hook up a cable to the aux receiver
antenna input, so made up a cable with a couple of 1N4002 diodes across the
cable from center conductor to ground (cathode end of one diode to center
conductor and anode to the shield and the other diode anode end to center
conductor and cathode end to shield).  This gives a protection as the diodes
conduct at about 0.7 Volts.  I just leave this cable connected to the aux
receiver input all the time, however most of the time I just use the regular
antenna for operating with the aux receive antenna off.

 

73,

Steve K4JPN

www.thewinstonator.com/K4JPN.htm

 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Upgrade

[Rick-N8XI]

I posed this question on eHam qrp forum and it was suggested I ask the
experts here.

I am thinking of adding the KPA-100 (Amp) and KSB2 (SSB) options.
What hardware/firmware upgrades will I need to facilitate the additions?

And... is it worth it?

My K2/10 is a 1999 vintage. Serial Number 171. 


Thanks
73, Rick - N8XI 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Upgrade

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

You can simply add the KPA100 and install the VCO ALC and 10/12 meter 
bandpass filter Mod kit that comes with the KPA100 kit, and it will work.
However, I recommend doing a full upgrade.  Look at the K2 A to B 
instructions to see the list of additional Mod kits (remember that the 
10 meter bandpass and VCO ALC kit is included with the KPA100 kit).  The 
K2KEYMODKT is not available from Elecraft due to a lack of the PIN diode 
specified, but email me direct and I can send you the instructions and a 
list of the parts to order - new K2 kits use a pin diode on a small 
carrier board for the diode needed.

If your firmware is not upgraded to 2.04, now is the time to upgrade it.
In addition, I highly recommend that you upgrade the IF crystals as well.

Is it worth it?  Only you can answer that, but I can tell you that after 
the upgrades, the K2 will be the performance equal of a newly 
constructed K2 except for a few inconsequential items.  The cost for the 
mod kits, new IF crystals, and new firmware will be in the vicinity of 
$130 or less.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/29/2014 7:53 AM, Rick-N8XI wrote:

I posed this question on eHam qrp forum and it was suggested I ask the
experts here.

I am thinking of adding the KPA-100 (Amp) and KSB2 (SSB) options.
What hardware/firmware upgrades will I need to facilitate the additions?

And... is it worth it?

My K2/10 is a 1999 vintage. Serial Number 171.


Thanks
73, Rick - N8XI



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Upgrade

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Rick,

I trust you will get advice from experienced builders here.  Here are some 
additional points, you may wish to consider:

1.  If you do not need a one-piece K2/100, you may wish to think about a 
KXPA100 instead.  KXPA100 can work with any QRP transceiver including K2.

2.  There is a full description of modification older K2 in elecraft website.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf

Since I am an overseas user, I bought most of the components locally and did a 
modification for an older K2 with S/N under 2000.

73

Johnny VR2XMC
 
 寄件人︰ Rick-N8XI n...@hotmail.com
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2014年04月29日 (週二) 7:53 PM
主題︰ [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Upgrade
  

I posed this question on eHam qrp forum and it was suggested I ask the
experts here.

I am thinking of adding the KPA-100 (Amp) and KSB2 (SSB) options.
What hardware/firmware upgrades will I need to facilitate the additions?

And... is it worth it?

My K2/10 is a 1999 vintage. Serial Number 171. 


Thanks
73, Rick - N8XI 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 Upgrade

[Phil Wheeler]

Rick,

If you're interested in running 100 watts I highly 
recommend adding the KPA100. Ditto for the KSB2 if 
you want to operate your K2 on SSB. I added each 
when it first came out and the K2/100 (#380) 
became my main station rig until I added the 
K-Line (K3+) this year.


I also recommend adding the DSP option; it takes a 
bit of work to set it up (lots of menu options!) 
but it is very effective.


Even though I have the K3, the K2 is a keeper and 
I continue to work on it. That's part of the fun: 
You built it and can maintain and improve it.


73, Phil w7ox

On 4/29/14, 4:53 AM, Rick-N8XI wrote:

I posed this question on eHam qrp forum and it was suggested I ask the
experts here.

I am thinking of adding the KPA-100 (Amp) and KSB2 (SSB) options.
What hardware/firmware upgrades will I need to facilitate the additions?

And... is it worth it?

My K2/10 is a 1999 vintage. Serial Number 171.


Thanks
73, Rick - N8XI



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[Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.

[Behiels JeanPierre]

Hi K2-members;

 

 

I do have successfully build a K2/100,but now I like to do some experiments 
with a analog S-meter device temporary in place of the standard K2 LED device.

Could someone give me some suggestions where I best,could pickup this 2 wire 
S-meter signal for my analog indication device.

Personally I really prefer a analog reading and indication in place of a LED 
device !  

I like to do some comparing around the both devices .

 

I look forward to your suggestions and maby some experiences around ?

 

Kindly regards Jean ON4AEF.

 
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.

[Don Wilhelm]

Jean,

The signal you want is available from Control Board U2 pin 1 - that is 
an analog signal.
You should follow it with a unity Gain Op Amp stage to minimize any 
loading effects of the analog meter, and you may even want to do some 
scaling after the op amp to properly drive whatever meter you will be using.


In other words, this meter should be in addition to the LED bargraph 
rather than as a replacement.  The LED Bargraph also shows relative 
transmit power or ALC level in transmit mode.


If you use a computer with the K2, there used to be an analog type 
S-meter display application available, but I forget where it can be 
found.  Perhaps someone else will know where to find it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2014 9:23 AM, Behiels JeanPierre wrote:


Hi K2-members;

  

  


I do have successfully build a K2/100,but now I like to do some experiments 
with a analog S-meter device temporary in place of the standard K2 LED device.

Could someone give me some suggestions where I best,could pickup this 2 wire 
S-meter signal for my analog indication device.

Personally I really prefer a analog reading and indication in place of a LED 
device !

I like to do some comparing around the both devices .

  


I look forward to your suggestions and maby some experiences around ?




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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.

[Matt Zilmer]

For the K2/K3 analog (computer) meter program, try a search for W4SMT.
That's all that shows in the Help-About box.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 08 Feb 2014 09:41:37 -0500, you wrote:

Jean,

The signal you want is available from Control Board U2 pin 1 - that is 
an analog signal.
You should follow it with a unity Gain Op Amp stage to minimize any 
loading effects of the analog meter, and you may even want to do some 
scaling after the op amp to properly drive whatever meter you will be using.

In other words, this meter should be in addition to the LED bargraph 
rather than as a replacement.  The LED Bargraph also shows relative 
transmit power or ALC level in transmit mode.

If you use a computer with the K2, there used to be an analog type 
S-meter display application available, but I forget where it can be 
found.  Perhaps someone else will know where to find it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2014 9:23 AM, Behiels JeanPierre wrote:

 Hi K2-members;

   

   

 I do have successfully build a K2/100,but now I like to do some experiments 
 with a analog S-meter device temporary in place of the standard K2 LED 
 device.

 Could someone give me some suggestions where I best,could pickup this 2 wire 
 S-meter signal for my analog indication device.

 Personally I really prefer a analog reading and indication in place of a LED 
 device !

 I like to do some comparing around the both devices .

   

 I look forward to your suggestions and maby some experiences around ?



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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129
Skype: matt.zilmer

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.

[Thomas Taylor]

On Sat, 8 Feb 2014 15:23:01 +0100
Behiels JeanPierre on4...@telenet.be wrote:

 
 
 Hi K2-members;
 
  
 
  
 
 I do have successfully build a K2/100,but now I like to do some experiments
 with a analog S-meter device temporary in place of the standard K2 LED device.
 
 Could someone give me some suggestions where I best,could pickup this 2 wire
 S-meter signal for my analog indication device.
 
 Personally I really prefer a analog reading and indication in place of a LED
 device !  
 
 I like to do some comparing around the both devices .
 
  
 
 I look forward to your suggestions and maby some experiences around ?
 
  
 
 Kindly regards Jean ON4AEF.
 
  
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Here is the url for w4smt's analog s-meter for the k2/k3:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/So-you-want-an-analog-s-meter-for-the-K3-td1444370.html

73 Tom kg7cfc

-- 
Never be ashamed to ask for information. The ignorant man will always be
ignorant if he fears that by asking he will display ignorance
  -  Booker T Washington

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  --.  --...  -.-.  ..-.  -.-.


Tom Taylor - retired penguin - KG7CFC
AMD Phenom II x4 955 -- 4GB RAM -- 2x1.5TB sata2
openSUSE 13.1_RC2-x86_64
KDE 4.12.1, FF 25.0, claws-mail 3.9.2
registered linux user 263467
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.

[David Fleming]

You can find the K3Meter app here:

http://w4smt.com/sight.net/K3Meter/


I'm not sure it will work with a K2. I don't recall testing it. This is circa 
2008.

David, W4SMT



 From: Matt Zilmer ma...@elecraft.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; i...@elecraft.com 
Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K2 : Analog S-meter considerations.
 

For the K2/K3 analog (computer) meter program, try a search for W4SMT.
That's all that shows in the Help-About box.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 08 Feb 2014 09:41:37 -0500, you wrote:

Jean,

The signal you want is available from Control Board U2 pin 1 - that is 
an analog signal.
You should follow it with a unity Gain Op Amp stage to minimize any 
loading effects of the analog meter, and you may even want to do some 
scaling after the op amp to properly drive whatever meter you will be using.

In other words, this meter should be in addition to the LED bargraph 
rather than as a replacement.  The LED Bargraph also shows relative 
transmit power or ALC level in transmit mode.

If you use a computer with the K2, there used to be an analog type 
S-meter display application available, but I forget where it can be 
found.  Perhaps someone else will know where to find it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/8/2014 9:23 AM, Behiels JeanPierre wrote:

 Hi K2-members;

  

  

 I do have successfully build a K2/100,but now I like to do some experiments 
 with a analog S-meter device temporary in place of the standard K2 LED 
 device.

 Could someone give me some suggestions where I best,could pickup this 2 wire 
 S-meter signal for my analog indication device.

 Personally I really prefer a analog reading and indication in place of a LED 
 device !

 I like to do some comparing around the both devices .

  

 I look forward to your suggestions and maby some experiences around ?



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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129
Skype: matt.zilmer


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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 has been sold.

[Carey Magee]

Many thanks to all who inquired.

73,
Carey, K2RNY
Rochester New York
Grid: FN13ef
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10 for sale

[Carey Magee]

Hi:
I am selling my fully loaded K2/10 (SN: 5613). Here are the details:
K2/10 Transceiver (SN:5613) with the following Elecraft options installed:

KSB2 (SSB Option)
K160RX (160M Option)
K60XV (60M and Transverter Interface Option)
KNB2 (Noise Blanker)
KDSP2 (Advanced Internal DSP Filter / Clock)
KAT2 (20W Internal ATU)
KIO2 (RS-232 Serial Interface)
KBT2 (Internal Battery Kit)
FDIMP (Finger Dimple for K2)

Also installed are:

Z1 internal buffered IF amp from Clifton Labs with SMA connector for IF
out.
ReWork Eliminator Mic header (IMA)
N0SS fixed Audio Output with RCA connector
K6XX Zero Beat Indicator
73CNC Black Anodized Main Tuning Knob (will include the original knob with
finger dimple)

Included with the sale is:
- Home Brew 14.2V battery charger for KBT2
- All manuals and cables.

Side tone pitch is set to 600Hz. This K2 has just about everything one
would need in a radio of this type.  The KBT2 battery option still holds a
charge just fine. Equipment is in great condition and works great. I am the
second non-smoking owner. I sent the rig to Don Wilhelm in 2011 for a once
over and will include all test results and paperwork.

I own a K3/P3 now, so sadly, it just sits on the desk not being used
anymore.

Please reply off list if you are interested.  Many thanks for the bandwidth.

73,
Carey Magee, K2RNY
Rochester New York
Grid: FN13ef
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 for sale

[Mike Weir]

I have decided to sell my Elecraft K2 setup. I have the KX3
and K3 and have found the K2 is sitting on the desk doing absolutely
nothing.  The rig can be used for
portable operation and as a100 watt base station. The rig and all accessories
were built by me.  The K2 was
aligned and checked out by Dave Raycroft - VA3RJ who is   listed on the 
Elecraft website as
a builder. I have the documentation that Dave gave me when he gave the K2 a
clean bill of health and aligned it. 
The package I am selling comes with the following:

 

K2 serial number 6613

KDSP2 DSP filter

KIO2 AUX I/O module

KAT2 ATU

KBT2 (purchased 10/10/2011 installed spring of 2012)

KNB2 Noise blanker

73cnc.com machined weighted vfo knob

VFO knob with tuning dimple as a spare knob

All manuals for the above options and K2

 

EC2 enclosure with

KAT100-1 ATU

K102 host control Aux I/O

KPA100 100 watt amp

All the interconnecting cables between K2, EC2 and PC. 

 

Additional items 

K6XX visible LED tuning indicator (it has not been installed
but it’s the complete kit ready to go)

AA Engineering 1 amp smart charger for the KBT2 keeps
the battery topped up and ready to go. 

Pelican 1400 series case for the K2 when out and about.

Dust cover from Rose. 

 

 The complete price is 1700.00 contact me via email at ve3...@hotmail.com for 
any questions. For pictures http://ve3wdm.blogspot.ca/p/k2_19.htmlIf you would 
like any other pictures please contact me at the above email and I will be more 
than happy to supply them. MikeVE3WDM

  
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[Elecraft] Elecraft k2 S-meter alignment

[Mike Weir]

On page 48 of the K2 manual the S-meter alignment is done. I was able to get 
the Cal S low done just fine. When I then moved on to the Cal S HI ( with the 
RF gain fully counter clockwise) I was not able go get any segments of the S 
meter to light up. I adjusted the VFO full circle and not one segment of the S 
meter would light up.  The AGC voltage was adjust to 3.80 volts DC without any 
problem. Also I read on the list of a similar problem and Don suggested  to 
check RP6 pin's 9 and 10 and U6 pin 3 (all on the control board) I reheated and 
soldered these, actually all the pins on U6 and RP6 and this did not solve the 
problem. Just wondering what the next step would be?MikeVE3WDM  
 
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