Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
As Bob has pointed out,  power drop is not the factor in the voltage to 
an Elecraft transceiver.


No matter what the supply voltage may be, the K2/K3/K3S/KX2/KX3 will 
attempt to produce the output power requested by the power knob setting. 
 Those transceivers actually measure the output power rather than the 
drive level as is done by many other transceivers.


The problem is that the transmit IMD increases as the voltage drops, so 
running with a higher voltage results in a cleaner signal on the air.


Of course, if you are an "all knobs right" operator, you may notice a 
bit of a drop in the maximum power available on some bands.  Instead of 
114 watts, you may get only 95 or 100 watts, but that is extreme.
I recommend that you do not set the power knob above 100 watts in any 
case.  Use the maximum setting only for testing into a dummy load.


The difference between 114 watts and 100 watts is only 0.57 dB and will 
not be noticed on the far end of the transmission.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/28/2019 5:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

It is not quite that simple.   Power drop is not really a factor.

The operating range of the radio, from specifications,  is 11 volts 
minimum to 15 volts maximum.   Thus with a 4 volt operating range, a 1 
volt drop represents a 25% change.  Within this range of 11 to 15 volts 
the radio will attempt to deliver 100 watts by demanding the required 
amount of current from the power supply. Thus the three resistances in 
series example, as I stated earlier, with the middle one {radio} being a 
variable value.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX

It is not quite that simple.   Power drop is not really a factor.

The operating range of the radio, from specifications,  is 11 volts 
minimum to 15 volts maximum.   Thus with a 4 volt operating range, a 1 
volt drop represents a 25% change.  Within this range of 11 to 15 volts 
the radio will attempt to deliver 100 watts by demanding the required 
amount of current from the power supply. Thus the three resistances in 
series example, as I stated earlier, with the middle one {radio} being a 
variable value.


Therefore the resistance of the DC power cables will then cause more 
voltage drop to occur as the current demand increases. This has been 
noted to cause the transmitter IMD {Inter-Modulation Distortion} to 
significantly increase.   Much has been written here regarding attaining 
lowest IMD while operating at near maximum rated voltage.   A word of 
caution, NEVER allow the power supply to exceed 15 volts.   It is very 
important to maintain minimum voltage drop with the power cables and 
anything else in the path.  Those power distribution strips are horrible 
in this regard and should NEVER be used to power the radio.  The radio 
should always be connected direct to the power supply terminals. No 
exceptions.


For this and other reasons, I have my power supply set to 14.8 volts at 
no load.  In transmit with 100 watts output and current of 17.5 amps, 
the voltage indicated by the radio is 14.5 volts or 0.3 volt drop {14.8 
- 14.5 = 0.3}.   The calculated resistance of my power cables is then  E 
/ I = R or 0.5 / 17.5 = 0.017 ohms.


In conclusion, it is NOT power output that is of concern.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/28/2019 1:49 PM, shull2...@gmail.com wrote:

At what point does a drop in input power become significant?  Does a 1.0v loss 
translate to 10 times less output power than a 0.1v loss?

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 1:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Actually 1 ohm of total resistance from a 14V source and a 20A load would be 
more than excessive.  More like a 0.01 ohm is 0.20 volt drop for 20 amps.   I x 
R = E

View it as 3 series resistors across a 14 V source.   R-1 is the DC POS lead 
resistance, the radio which is a variable resistance as R-2, and
R-3 which is the DC NEG lead resistance.  Therefore, the voltage at the radio 
is equal to the IR drop being the sum of R-1 and R-3.

73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread shull2805
At what point does a drop in input power become significant?  Does a 1.0v loss 
translate to 10 times less output power than a 0.1v loss?  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 1:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Actually 1 ohm of total resistance from a 14V source and a 20A load would be 
more than excessive.  More like a 0.01 ohm is 0.20 volt drop for 20 amps.   I x 
R = E

View it as 3 series resistors across a 14 V source.   R-1 is the DC POS lead 
resistance, the radio which is a variable resistance as R-2, and
R-3 which is the DC NEG lead resistance.  Therefore, the voltage at the radio 
is equal to the IR drop being the sum of R-1 and R-3.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 12/28/2019 11:26 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
> For measuring voltage drop.. I would measure the voltage drop from the 
> Plus lead of the Power supply to the plus lead on the back of the 
> radio while in full load TX (FM or RTTY).
>
> It should be less than 0.1 or 0.2 of a volt.
>
> Then, do the same on the Negative Lead.  You should see the same 
> answer (assuming Negative DC doesn't find an alternative path).
>
> Those numbers should add up to the same voltage drop total.
>
> As a reminder.  It only takes 1 ohm of loss in the cable/fuses to 
> significantly impact your full power out.
>
> Mike va3mw
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Actually 1 ohm of total resistance from a 14V source and a 20A load 
would be more than excessive.  More like a 0.01 ohm is 0.20 volt drop 
for 20 amps.   I x R = E


View it as 3 series resistors across a 14 V source.   R-1 is the DC POS 
lead resistance, the radio which is a variable resistance as R-2, and  
R-3 which is the DC NEG lead resistance.  Therefore, the voltage at the 
radio is equal to the IR drop being the sum of R-1 and R-3.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 12/28/2019 11:26 AM, Michael Walker wrote:

For measuring voltage drop.. I would measure the voltage drop from the Plus
lead of the Power supply to the plus lead on the back of the radio while in
full load TX (FM or RTTY).

It should be less than 0.1 or 0.2 of a volt.

Then, do the same on the Negative Lead.  You should see the same answer
(assuming Negative DC doesn't find an alternative path).

Those numbers should add up to the same voltage drop total.

As a reminder.  It only takes 1 ohm of loss in the cable/fuses to
significantly impact your full power out.

Mike va3mw




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread Michael Walker
For measuring voltage drop.. I would measure the voltage drop from the Plus
lead of the Power supply to the plus lead on the back of the radio while in
full load TX (FM or RTTY).

It should be less than 0.1 or 0.2 of a volt.

Then, do the same on the Negative Lead.  You should see the same answer
(assuming Negative DC doesn't find an alternative path).

Those numbers should add up to the same voltage drop total.

As a reminder.  It only takes 1 ohm of loss in the cable/fuses to
significantly impact your full power out.

Mike va3mw


On Sat, Dec 28, 2019 at 11:00 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Better precision than a battery can be found by using a precision
> voltage regulator.  Take a look at the Precision Voltage Source on my
> website www.w3fpr.com.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/27/2019 5:53 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
> > A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh battery.
> > Zinc/carbon or Alkaline should show about 1.56 volts. (I learned this
> > test from the bias setting instructions for a Dynakit Stereo 70
> > amplifier. They built the amp so the test point read 1.56 volts when the
> > bias is correctly set and suggested calibrating your meter with a
> > battery. In that era, the zinc/carbon battery was what ran almost all of
> > the flashlights (torches for for English speakers) in the world.
> >
> > 73 Bill AE6JV
> >
> > On 12/23/19 at 11:30 PM, rmcg...@blomand.net (Bob McGraw K4TAX) wrote:
> >
> >> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to
> >> determine if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands
> >> available.   A DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.
> >> My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with
> >> too much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am
> >> confident when I make a measurement it is accurate without question.
> > -
> > Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
> > (408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 Englewood Ave
> > www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, CA
> 95032
> >
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Better precision than a battery can be found by using a precision 
voltage regulator.  Take a look at the Precision Voltage Source on my 
website www.w3fpr.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2019 5:53 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh battery. 
Zinc/carbon or Alkaline should show about 1.56 volts. (I learned this 
test from the bias setting instructions for a Dynakit Stereo 70 
amplifier. They built the amp so the test point read 1.56 volts when the 
bias is correctly set and suggested calibrating your meter with a 
battery. In that era, the zinc/carbon battery was what ran almost all of 
the flashlights (torches for for English speakers) in the world.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/23/19 at 11:30 PM, rmcg...@blomand.net (Bob McGraw K4TAX) wrote:

A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to 
determine if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands 
available.   A DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.
My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with 
too much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am 
confident when I make a measurement it is accurate without question.

-
Bill Frantz    | The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-27 Thread Bill Frantz
A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh 
battery. Zinc/carbon or Alkaline should show about 1.56 volts. 
(I learned this test from the bias setting instructions for a 
Dynakit Stereo 70 amplifier. They built the amp so the test 
point read 1.56 volts when the bias is correctly set and 
suggested calibrating your meter with a battery. In that era, 
the zinc/carbon battery was what ran almost all of the 
flashlights (torches for for English speakers) in the world.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/23/19 at 11:30 PM, rmcg...@blomand.net (Bob McGraw K4TAX) wrote:

A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it 
to determine if the others are accurate.  There are several 
good brands available.   A DVM that is not accurate is worse 
than no DVM at all.
My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it 
with too much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and 
calibration.  I am confident when I make a measurement it is 
accurate without question.

-
Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-26 Thread Keith Trinity WE6R
I would leave it at 4.96 as that tells me it was set at some point (from 
5.00 default).
However, if you think the internal metering is wrong, you could double 
check it if you have a calibrated meter.
Valid range of ADC REF setting is 4.75 to 5.25 and I typically see the 
correct value around 4.85 to 5.05.

To experiment, I checked at 5.25 and 4.75
Set at 5.25 the internal volt meter displayed 14.2V.
Set at 4.75 it showed 12.9V
That is a 1.3 volt swing so it is worth setting properly.
Keith WE6R

On 12/26/2019 3:39 PM, Mike Flowers wrote:

Hi Keith,

Mine reads 4.96, so should it be set to 5.0 or left alone?

Thanks.

- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, NCDXC Secretary


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
On Behalf Of Keith Trinity WE6R
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 15:25
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Notes for all;
Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF".   If at 5.00 it is probably at
default.
(if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR

the

internal metering. Set to 5.00 or read on).
(I check this during checkout, so if it has been in for Service, it should

be OK).

Higher accuracy of the K3 items like the internal Volt-Meter can be had if

this is

set properly.
With a known external meter on Pin 2 to ground of the 15 pin ACCY

connector;

Go into config menu ADC REF and set it.

Also you can stick your probes into the Anderson connectors at the back of

the

radio during full power TX to see the actual voltage to the radio.
(I have a digital LED meter connected  with small wires to the Anderson

supply

wire right at the back of the radio on my K3 test bench).
Keith WE6R
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delivered to mike.flow...@gmail.com




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-26 Thread Mike Flowers
Hi Keith,

Mine reads 4.96, so should it be set to 5.0 or left alone?

Thanks.

- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, NCDXC Secretary

> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On Behalf Of Keith Trinity WE6R
> Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 15:25
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
> 
> Notes for all;
> Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF".   If at 5.00 it is probably at
> default.
> (if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR
the
> internal metering. Set to 5.00 or read on).
> (I check this during checkout, so if it has been in for Service, it should
be OK).
> 
> Higher accuracy of the K3 items like the internal Volt-Meter can be had if
this is
> set properly.
> With a known external meter on Pin 2 to ground of the 15 pin ACCY
connector;
> Go into config menu ADC REF and set it.
> 
> Also you can stick your probes into the Anderson connectors at the back of
the
> radio during full power TX to see the actual voltage to the radio.
> (I have a digital LED meter connected  with small wires to the Anderson
supply
> wire right at the back of the radio on my K3 test bench).
> Keith WE6R
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-26 Thread Keith Trinity WE6R

Notes for all;
Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF".   If at 5.00 it is probably at 
default.
(if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR 
the internal metering. Set to 5.00 or read on).
(I check this during checkout, so if it has been in for Service, it 
should be OK).


Higher accuracy of the K3 items like the internal Volt-Meter can be had 
if this is set properly.

With a known external meter on Pin 2 to ground of the 15 pin ACCY connector;
Go into config menu ADC REF and set it.

Also you can stick your probes into the Anderson connectors at the back 
of the radio during full power TX to see the actual voltage to the radio.
(I have a digital LED meter connected  with small wires to the Anderson 
supply wire right at the back of the radio on my K3 test bench).

Keith WE6R
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-25 Thread George Thornton
Concur.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 9:34 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

I have a Fluke DVM also. I gulped when I bought it some 30+ years ago, but it 
was a good decision. It’s like a Snap-On wrench. It just feels right and never 
let me down.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 25 Dec 2019, at 4:29, hawley, charles j jr  wrote:
> 
> I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now. It does it all well.
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
> 
>> On Dec 23, 2019, at 10:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
>> 
>> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to determine 
>> if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands available.   A 
>> DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.   
>> 
>> My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with too 
>> much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am confident 
>> when I make a measurement it is accurate without question. 
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Dec 23, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Buck  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
>>> voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
>>> significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the supply 
>>> cable didn't make much difference.
>>> 
>>> Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter on 
>>> the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I used two 
>>> separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the meter to make 
>>> it agree.
>>> 
>>> Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and assume 
>>> a low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Buck, k4ia
>>> Honor Roll
>>> 8BDXCC
>>> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>>> 
>>>>> On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
>>>>> On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
>>>>> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the 
>>>>> back of the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
>>>> That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the 
>>>> radio, at the PS, or at some other point?
>>>> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
>>>> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>>>> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) 
>>>> Oregon 
>>>> __
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>>> rmcg...@blomand.net
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Vic Rosenthal
I have a Fluke DVM also. I gulped when I bought it some 30+ years ago, but it 
was a good decision. It’s like a Snap-On wrench. It just feels right and never 
let me down.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 25 Dec 2019, at 4:29, hawley, charles j jr  wrote:
> 
> I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now. It does it all well.
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Dec 23, 2019, at 10:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
>> 
>> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to determine 
>> if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands available.   A 
>> DVM that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.   
>> 
>> My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with too 
>> much voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am confident 
>> when I make a measurement it is accurate without question. 
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Dec 23, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Buck  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
>>> voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
>>> significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the supply 
>>> cable didn't make much difference.
>>> 
>>> Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter on 
>>> the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I used two 
>>> separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the meter to make 
>>> it agree.
>>> 
>>> Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and assume 
>>> a low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Buck, k4ia
>>> Honor Roll
>>> 8BDXCC
>>> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>>> 
> On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
> On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
 That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
 the PS, or at some other point?
 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
 Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
 Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Yes true.   However seeing they way some hams configure their stations, 
building or modifying and implementing a power supply with voltage 
sensing, is of serious questionable nature. Likewise, in conditions 
where power supplies are buried under the desk.  One needs to see the 
volt meter when the supply is first turned on to assure the voltage is 
correct.   And that should be done before the radio is turned on.     Oh 
I know about crowbar circuits, but if that $2.50 part fails it will 
likely take out a $3000 radio.   This just isn't smart.


Having worked with equipment that was supplied with 35 ft or 50 ft power 
cables for loads of 20A to 30A at + & - 18 volts, I understand just a 
wee bit about voltage sensing circuits and what makes them oscillate.


Just err on the safe side.    And for ham radio, it likely is not 
necessary to have or implement remote voltage sensing.  Wire and 
connectors are cheap.   Use a shorter length of wire or larger gauge 
wire.   There's no likely component failure with this approach.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/24/2019 8:25 PM, K9MA wrote:

Typically, there are small resistors at the power supply between the output and 
sense terminals to prevent the voltage from rising if a sense wire opens up.

73,
Scott K9MA

--

Scott Ellington

  --- via iPad


On Dec 24, 2019, at 5:39 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

Yes, but one screw-up on the remote sensing system and it will take advantage 
of the voltage overhead on the pass transistors and likely wipe out every piece 
of equipment.   I strongly do not advise it.   And you make a valid point 
for NOT using remote sensing.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/24/2019 3:22 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
I have thought about doing that. Just requires a 2 wire hookup with small
gauge wire. But I run all of my small items like the remoterig box, LP-pan
box, VHF/UHF rig and so forth off of the main supply and if I have a larger
than anticipated voltage drop on rig power cable the voltage on the other
tings could go fairly high. The power supply is a HB thing with at least a
50 amp capacity and plenty of voltage overhead before pass transistors.
(Used to run 2 HF rigs before downsizing.)



On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 2:25 PM Rose  wrote:

First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)

73

K0PP

On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson 
wrote:


Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
Regardless of the current draw.

Karin Anne Johnson K3UU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now. It does it all well.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 23, 2019, at 10:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to determine 
> if the others are accurate.  There are several good brands available.   A DVM 
> that is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.   
> 
> My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with too much 
> voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am confident when 
> I make a measurement it is accurate without question. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 23, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Buck  wrote:
>> 
>> The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
>> voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
>> significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the supply 
>> cable didn't make much difference.
>> 
>> Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter on 
>> the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I used two 
>> separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the meter to make it 
>> agree.
>> 
>> Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and assume a 
>> low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Buck, k4ia
>> Honor Roll
>> 8BDXCC
>> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>> 
 On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
 On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
 I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
 the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
>>> That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
>>> the PS, or at some other point?
>>> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
>>> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>>> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
>>> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread K9MA
Typically, there are small resistors at the power supply between the output and 
sense terminals to prevent the voltage from rising if a sense wire opens up. 

73,
Scott K9MA 

--

Scott Ellington

 --- via iPad

> On Dec 24, 2019, at 5:39 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Yes, but one screw-up on the remote sensing system and it will take 
> advantage of the voltage overhead on the pass transistors and likely wipe out 
> every piece of equipment.   I strongly do not advise it.   And you make a 
> valid point for NOT using remote sensing.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
>> On 12/24/2019 3:22 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
>> I have thought about doing that. Just requires a 2 wire hookup with small
>> gauge wire. But I run all of my small items like the remoterig box, LP-pan
>> box, VHF/UHF rig and so forth off of the main supply and if I have a larger
>> than anticipated voltage drop on rig power cable the voltage on the other
>> tings could go fairly high. The power supply is a HB thing with at least a
>> 50 amp capacity and plenty of voltage overhead before pass transistors.
>> (Used to run 2 HF rigs before downsizing.)
>> 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 2:25 PM Rose  wrote:
>>> 
>>> First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> 
>>> K0PP
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
 As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
 wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
 For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
 I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
 Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
 13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
 Regardless of the current draw.
 
 Karin Anne Johnson K3UU
 
 
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>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Yes, but one screw-up on the remote sensing system and it will take 
advantage of the voltage overhead on the pass transistors and likely 
wipe out every piece of equipment.   I strongly do not advise it.   
And you make a valid point for NOT using remote sensing.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 12/24/2019 3:22 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:

I have thought about doing that. Just requires a 2 wire hookup with small
gauge wire. But I run all of my small items like the remoterig box, LP-pan
box, VHF/UHF rig and so forth off of the main supply and if I have a larger
than anticipated voltage drop on rig power cable the voltage on the other
tings could go fairly high. The power supply is a HB thing with at least a
50 amp capacity and plenty of voltage overhead before pass transistors.
(Used to run 2 HF rigs before downsizing.)


On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 2:25 PM Rose  wrote:


First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)

73

K0PP

On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson 
wrote:


Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
Regardless of the current draw.

Karin Anne Johnson K3UU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
With the Astron supplies, the 723 regulator does have provision for 
remote sensing.  And with a bit of work and some extra wiring and 
components one can have remote sensing.


I would suggest NOT doing so as remote sensing become "inputs" to the 
723 regulator chip and any noise or RF on the remote sensing lines can 
be very problematic.   Proper filtering and time constants will be 
required to prevent oscillations.


My suggestion is to use good quality #10 AWG wire, such as auto primary 
wire fitted with correct terminals on the ends.  Be sure to correctly 
crimp and solder as needed.   Suggested length is something less than 10 
ft.    Also be sure to have a dedicated ground between the ground screw 
on the back of the radio to the ground on the power supply.


In the end, if you desire to have remote sensing, purchase a suitable 
supply that provides remote sensing.   Life will be much easier.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/24/2019 2:20 PM, Karin Johnson wrote:

Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
Regardless of the current draw.

Karin Anne Johnson K3UU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread K9MA
There can be stability issues with remote sensing. Also RF susceptibility.  
Take care!

73,
Scott K9MA 



--

Scott Ellington

 --- via iPad

> On Dec 24, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> That would be a neat thing to do, but DO NOT do that on a power supply that 
> is connected to anything other than the rig you are sensing from.
> 
> The voltage on other devices connected to the power supply will increase when 
> you transmit on the rig to which the sense wires are connected.
> 
> Use a separate power supply for accessories.
> 
> If you need to use the same supply, you can adjust the voltage upward - the 
> SS30 sold by Elecraft already has an output voltage of 14.1 volts.
> Still use a separate power cable to the transceiver and another cable to any 
> distribution box that you use for accessories for best results (lowest 
> voltage drop when transmitting).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 12/24/2019 4:23 PM, K4HYJ via Elecraft wrote:
>> I do use voltage sensing at the rear of the radio.  Astron supplies can be
>> modified easily to do this - they already have sense wires tied to the
>> voltage output terminals.  Basically you disconnect them there and run leads
>> (keep em short) to the radio.  On transmit, my K3s drops less than 1/10 a
>> volt.
>> There are a few write ups floating around on how to do this.  I installed a
>> switch (make before break type) on my RS-50M so I can return to "normal"
>> sensing.  ***WARNING*** If the external sense wires are not connected to
>> anything the crowbar circuit will fire!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
That would be a neat thing to do, but DO NOT do that on a power supply 
that is connected to anything other than the rig you are sensing from.


The voltage on other devices connected to the power supply will increase 
when you transmit on the rig to which the sense wires are connected.


Use a separate power supply for accessories.

If you need to use the same supply, you can adjust the voltage upward - 
the SS30 sold by Elecraft already has an output voltage of 14.1 volts.
Still use a separate power cable to the transceiver and another cable to 
any distribution box that you use for accessories for best results 
(lowest voltage drop when transmitting).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/24/2019 4:23 PM, K4HYJ via Elecraft wrote:

I do use voltage sensing at the rear of the radio.  Astron supplies can be
modified easily to do this - they already have sense wires tied to the
voltage output terminals.  Basically you disconnect them there and run leads
(keep em short) to the radio.  On transmit, my K3s drops less than 1/10 a
volt.

There are a few write ups floating around on how to do this.  I installed a
switch (make before break type) on my RS-50M so I can return to "normal"
sensing.  ***WARNING*** If the external sense wires are not connected to
anything the crowbar circuit will fire!!!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread K4HYJ via Elecraft
I do use voltage sensing at the rear of the radio.  Astron supplies can be
modified easily to do this - they already have sense wires tied to the
voltage output terminals.  Basically you disconnect them there and run leads
(keep em short) to the radio.  On transmit, my K3s drops less than 1/10 a
volt.

There are a few write ups floating around on how to do this.  I installed a
switch (make before break type) on my RS-50M so I can return to "normal"
sensing.  ***WARNING*** If the external sense wires are not connected to
anything the crowbar circuit will fire!!!

Hank
K4HYJ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Karin Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 3:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide For
external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
Regardless of the current draw.

Karin Anne Johnson K3UU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Jim Rhodes
I have thought about doing that. Just requires a 2 wire hookup with small
gauge wire. But I run all of my small items like the remoterig box, LP-pan
box, VHF/UHF rig and so forth off of the main supply and if I have a larger
than anticipated voltage drop on rig power cable the voltage on the other
tings could go fairly high. The power supply is a HB thing with at least a
50 amp capacity and plenty of voltage overhead before pass transistors.
(Used to run 2 HF rigs before downsizing.)


On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 2:25 PM Rose  wrote:

> First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)
>
> 73
>
> K0PP
>
> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson 
> wrote:
>
> > Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
> > As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
> > wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
> > For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
> > I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
> > Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
> > 13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
> > Regardless of the current draw.
> >
> > Karin Anne Johnson K3UU
> >
> >
> > __
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-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Rose
First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)

73

K0PP

On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson  wrote:

> Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
> As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
> wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
> For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
> I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
> Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
> 13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
> Regardless of the current draw.
>
> Karin Anne Johnson K3UU
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-24 Thread Karin Johnson
Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring.  Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with this idea a bit but haven't had the time dig in to the
Astron supply I have.  If this were implemented then one could maintain
13.8 volts or whatever you desired at the radio power supply inputs,
Regardless of the current draw.

Karin Anne Johnson K3UU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-23 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station.  Use it to determine if 
the others are accurate.  There are several good brands available.   A DVM that 
is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.   

My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77.   After I tapped it with too much 
voltage, I sent it to Fluke for repair and calibration.  I am confident when I 
make a measurement it is accurate without question. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 23, 2019, at 2:12 PM, Buck  wrote:
> 
> The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
> voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
> significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the supply 
> cable didn't make much difference.
> 
> Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter on 
> the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I used two 
> separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the meter to make it 
> agree.
> 
> Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and assume a 
> low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.
> 
> 
> 
> Buck, k4ia
> Honor Roll
> 8BDXCC
> EasyWayHamBooks.com
> 
>> On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
>>> On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
>>> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
>>> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
>> That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
>> the PS, or at some other point?
>> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
>> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
>> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-23 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
I do not use a “ground” at the station.  I don’t find or see that it’s needed.  
My station has a 4 wire #10 service from the breaker panel to the operating 
position.  The breakers are single 20A units. This gives me 240V for the amp 
and a duplex off of each leg.  Thus I maintain a common neutral and common 
ground to the breaker panel. 

Grounding for lightning protection is done outside of the house and that system 
is bonded back to the AC Mains ground rod below the service entrance. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 23, 2019, at 1:44 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> 
> On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
> 
>> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
>> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
> 
> That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
> the PS, or at some other point?
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-23 Thread Buck
The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply 
voltage display meter in the radio.  I was surprised to find mine was 
significantly low.  I thought it was voltage drop but changing the 
supply cable didn't make much difference.


Turns out the Astron power supply was more than a volt low and the meter 
on the supply had been cranked up to make it appear to be correct.  I 
used two separate VOMs to set the power supply and then adjusted the 
meter to make it agree.


Moral of the story: don't rely on the meter on the power supply and 
assume a low reading at the radio is due solely to voltage drop.




Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/23/2019 2:26 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:


I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.


That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
the PS, or at some other point?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-23 Thread Phil Kane
On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:

> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.

That's for "bonding".  Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
the PS, or at some other point?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Jim Brown

On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
Rid your station of the DC power strip.  It will cause problems. More 
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip.  The radios should 
be connected direct to the power supply.


Yes and no. My station has direct short runs from a 100Ah Bioenne 
LiFePO4 battery to my two K3s. The radio very close to the battery is 
#10; the longer run (about five ft) to the radio on the other side of 
the desk is two #10s in parallel. This battery is used because it's 
operating voltage remains well about 13VDC throughout its discharge 
curve (as opposed to the SLA, which is closer to 11.5VDC under load). 
The difference results in lower IMD.


The other 12V gear (and LED strips for task lighting) runs from a 100Ah 
12V SLA battery through a DC power strip. All the gear is bonded 
together. Both batteries are float-charged by spare Thinkpad power 
supplies with Genasun charge regulators. The power strips are fine for 
low current drain devices, but, as Bob notes, not for the radios.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I used to run my K3S with an auto turn on Rigrunner which I liked very much, 
convenient. But the voltage drop was concerning. I go direct now to the rig.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Dec 22, 2019, at 10:21 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Tony,
> 
> While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be better if 
> you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather than from the 
> power distribution strip.
> 
> Each connection will have some voltage drop, so in addition to increasing the 
> wiring gauge, reducing the connection points will help just as much.
> 
> 73 Merry Christmas, or Happy Hanukkah whichever you choose to celebrate.
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:
>> I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
>> two K3's.
>> I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
>> power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
>> K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's were
>> tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 14.30 at
>> 100W.
>> Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in receive
>> and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
>> Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
>> Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
>> Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' of
>> 10ga wire.
>> P3 output was now 114W.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Bob McGraw
I still connect all of the equipment which used walwarts to my power 
supply.  I made provisions to have many many DC connections, as 
described below,  to my supplies.  All of my DC power leads have the 
correct size crimp ring terminal for the application. Never use stranded 
wire around a screw. Thus many problems solved.  I know the DC 
distribution strips look cool with their LEDs and fuses and connectors, 
and are very easy to use for convenience.  But I find just like AC 
strips, are a source of many problems.   I've found many of the AC 
strips which have a poor 3rd wire connection.   They are a matter of 
convenience and not of reliable functionality.




As to the Astron SS-30M, I have 3 of those.  They are great. I did find the provided 
DC connections where the wires are inserted into the blocks and secured with a screw 
from the side would not accommodate the 4 needs for DC at my station.Therefore, 
I took two pieces of  2" x 10-32 brass machine screw, cut off the head, filed a 
small flat spot on one side at the end to make it slightly D shaped.   Inserted that 
end into the DC connector and tightened the set screw against the flat spot. Then 
added as needed the brass nuts, flat washers and lock washers, secured finally by 
another brass nut.   This in effect gives me very adequate terminal length to attach 
as many DC power leads with suitable ring terminals as needed.  DC resistance has 
therefore been minimized. The 10 ga wire is a good addition for radio power 
needs.

I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of the 
radio to the ground screw on the power supply.



73

Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Edward R Cole
In my current station layout the rack-mounted Astron-50M is separated 
from the radio shelf, so I need a 15-foot run of cable.  The Astron 
runs 14.2 vdc.  I have 13.69 v at the main power strip (handles 10ga 
wiring).  The primary dc power cable is No. 6 welding cable (more 
flexible than std No. 6) so I have a BUSS30 fuse at the main power 
strip.  The Astron is capable of 50 amps if the main cable were to 
short (cable is rated for a over 200A for welding).


I use the std power cord that came with my K3/10 and see 13.3v 
displayed by the K3 in transmit with 10w RF output.  The K3/10 does 
not draw a lot of current.  I drive a KXPA100 which has 5-foot 
Elecraft power cable (looks like No.12).  I get 100w on all bands 
with about 5w drive (only 6m requires 8w drive for 80w output).


I have not measured the voltage at the power-pole connector when in 
transmit but should be approx 13.5v based on current draw of 20 A.


I run several high power solid-state amplifiers that draw up to 50A 
at 50v so paying attention to dc voltage drop in dc wiring is quite important.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread N2TK via Elecraft
Bob,
The power strip is gone for the K3's. Now direct connections from the PS to 
each K3.
The power strip is good for replacing the walwarts.
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Bob McGraw
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 12:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Rid your station of the DC power strip.  It will cause problems. More 
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip.  The radios should be 
connected direct to the power supply.

As to the Astron SS-30M, I have 3 of those.  They are great. I did find the 
provided DC connections where the wires are inserted into the blocks and 
secured with a screw from the side would not accommodate the 4 needs for DC at 
my station.Therefore, I took two pieces of  2" x 10-32 brass machine screw, 
cut off the head, filed a small flat spot on one side at the end to make it 
slightly D shaped.   Inserted that end into the DC connector and tightened the 
set screw against the flat spot. Then added as needed the brass nuts, flat 
washers and lock washers, secured finally by another brass nut.   This in 
effect gives me very adequate terminal length to attach as many DC power leads 
with suitable ring terminals as needed.  DC resistance has therefore been 
minimized. The 10 ga wire is a good addition for radio power needs.

I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of the 
radio to the ground screw on the power supply.

73

Bob, K4TAX

12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:

> I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to 
> feed two K3's.
> I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From 
> the power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power 
> supply to a
> K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's 
> were tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 
> 14.30 at 100W.
> Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in 
> receive and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
> Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
> Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
> Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' 
> of 10ga wire.
> P3 output was now 114W.
> I never transmit with both K3's at the same time.
> Just a data point.
> 73 and Merry Christmas
> N2TK, Tony
>
>
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delivered to tony@verizon.net 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread N2TK via Elecraft
Hi Don,
With the 10ga wire the power distribution strip is not used. There are two runs 
of 7' each direct from the power supply to a K3. The run is 7' because I have 
the power supply with the rest of my supplies, router, etc. all mounted 
underneath my desk to the side to keep the desktop clean. I don't hink 0.6V 
drop is too much to be concerned with. The amps are in the basement. 
In the process of adding Green Heron Everywhere wireless remotes to eliminate 
the manual switches too.

73 and merry Christmas
N2TK, Tony 

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm  
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 11:21 AM
To: tony@verizon.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

Tony,

While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be better if 
you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather than from the power 
distribution strip.

Each connection will have some voltage drop, so in addition to increasing the 
wiring gauge, reducing the connection points will help just as much.

73 Merry Christmas, or Happy Hanukkah whichever you choose to celebrate.
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:
> I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to 
> feed two K3's.
> I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From 
> the power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power 
> supply to a
> K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's 
> were tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 
> 14.30 at 100W.
> Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in 
> receive and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
> Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
> Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
> Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' 
> of 10ga wire.
> P3 output was now 114W.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Bob McGraw
Rid your station of the DC power strip.  It will cause problems. More 
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip.  The radios should 
be connected direct to the power supply.


As to the Astron SS-30M, I have 3 of those.  They are great. I did find 
the provided DC connections where the wires are inserted into the blocks 
and secured with a screw from the side would not accommodate the 4 needs 
for DC at my station.    Therefore, I took two pieces of  2" x 10-32 
brass machine screw, cut off the head, filed a small flat spot on one 
side at the end to make it slightly D shaped.   Inserted that end into 
the DC connector and tightened the set screw against the flat spot.  
Then added as needed the brass nuts, flat washers and lock washers, 
secured finally by another brass nut.   This in effect gives me very 
adequate terminal length to attach as many DC power leads with suitable 
ring terminals as needed.  DC resistance has therefore been 
minimized. The 10 ga wire is a good addition for radio power needs.


I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of 
the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.


73

Bob, K4TAX

12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:


I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
two K3's.
I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's were
tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 14.30 at
100W.
Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in receive
and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' of
10ga wire.
P3 output was now 114W.
I never transmit with both K3's at the same time.
Just a data point.
73 and Merry Christmas
N2TK, Tony
   


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tony,

While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be 
better if you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather 
than from the power distribution strip.


Each connection will have some voltage drop, so in addition to 
increasing the wiring gauge, reducing the connection points will help 
just as much.


73 Merry Christmas, or Happy Hanukkah whichever you choose to celebrate.
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2019 10:47 AM, N2TK via Elecraft wrote:

I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
two K3's.
I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's were
tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 14.30 at
100W.
Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in receive
and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' of
10ga wire.
P3 output was now 114W.

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[Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop

2019-12-22 Thread N2TK via Elecraft
I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
two K3's. 
I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.  The K3's were
tested one at a time. The power supply voltage went from 14.38 to 14.30 at
100W.
Both K3's read the same on the K3's internal voltmeter - 14.1V in receive
and 12.7V at 100W setting on the K3's. The P3 read 107W out.
Changed the cable to 10ga wire direct from the power supply to each K3.
Length of each is 7'. Same test. Power supply voltage was still 14.39/14.30.
Voltage on each K3 was now 14.2v. Key down 13.6V. So, 0.6V drop in 7' of
10ga wire.
P3 output was now 114W.
I never transmit with both K3's at the same time.
Just a data point.
73 and Merry Christmas
N2TK, Tony
  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-19 Thread David Cutter
Glad you raised that point, Brian.  In my Sunday school classes I ask the 
question: what does the fuse protect?  It's  a revelation to all when I 
give the right answer.


On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can lead to a severe shock 
hazard and I'm guessing that in the 110V centre-tapped system since the 
shock hazard is so much less, the next major hazard is fire, so, I've often 
thought that we are protecting against 2 hazards, each with a different 
emphasis in each case.


In a 14V dc distribution system there is no real shock hazard (SELV), so the 
remaining hazard has to be fire, so, a slow fuse is not a problem, since 
heating effect in the wiring is so much slower.


Anyone care to comment/add?

David



On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 wrote:

A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other 
words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  blow a 
new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  get metal 
fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  transistors - 
on three legs anyway...




Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  is 
to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  component 
itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  rise. The 
idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  there is any 
chance of damage to the wire.


This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  If 
you want that level of protection you need something like a power  supply 
with fold-back current limiting.


Brian Lloyd 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-19 Thread WILLIS COOKE

--- David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Glad you raised that point, Brian.  In my Sunday
 school classes I ask the 
 question: what does the fuse protect?  It's  a
 revelation to all when I 
 give the right answer.
 
 On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can
 lead to a severe shock 
 hazard and I'm guessing that in the 110V
 centre-tapped system since the 
 shock hazard is so much less, the next major hazard
 is fire, so, I've often 
 
You are right David.  110 VAC is much safer than 240V,
it can just barely kill you.

Cookie, K5EWJ

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ
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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Julius Fazekas
Hi Ron,

Thanks for the analysis. You pointed out several
things I was unaware of related to these types of
fuses. Nice to learn something new!

I'm in the process of redoing the power distribution
in my shack, so will take this info into account.

Fortunately, it's been a while since I've blown any
fuse.


Cheers,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-17 Thread Brian Lloyd


On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 wrote:


A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other  
words very slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally  
blow a new fuse.  Have not seen any data on old fuses which might  
get metal fatigue.  There are faster fuses, but the fastest are rf  
transistors - on three legs anyway...


Most people don't know that the purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker  
is to protect the power distribution wiring, not the electronic  
component itself. Wire will carry a surge without too much temperature  
rise. The idea is that the fuse will blow or the breaker open before  
there is any chance of damage to the wire.


This means that a fuse or breaker cannot protect your active devices.  
If you want that level of protection you need something like a power  
supply with fold-back current limiting.


Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
Ron,

I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
contests, without an issue. 

Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
enough wiggle room not to worry too much.

The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)

73,
Julius




Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi Julius:

I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running the K3
at 100 watts. Like the K2, I suspect the current draw varies a bit depending
upon the rig, the actual parameters of some of the transistors, etc. That's
normal, according to the K3 specs, which rate the current demand at 17-22
amps at 100 watts in transmit

IMX fuses have a nasty habit of suddenly opening after being cycled a number
of times near their rated limit, even the 'slo-blo' type that are supposed
to offer a little resistance against sudden failure when their current limit
is reached will sometimes open unexpectedly.

I've seen fuses operating near their current limits develop cracks so they
act like thermal switches, causing power to go off suddenly then, after a
few seconds (while the fuse cools) suddenly come back on, then switch off
again as soon as a higher current is drawn such as for transmitting.
Eventually they fail completely, but in the meantime the symptoms can be
pretty confusing.  

As a matter of practice I try to allow significant headroom between the
rating of any fuses and the actual current draw, and I always have spare
fuses on hand since they can and do fail over time, even if not subjected to
excessive current. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Ron,

I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
contests, without an issue. 

Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
enough wiggle room not to worry too much.

The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)

73,
Julius


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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-16 Thread d.cutter
A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other words very 
slowly.  It's only a short circuit that will normally blow a new fuse.  Have 
not seen any data on old fuses which might get metal fatigue.  There are faster 
fuses, but the fastest are rf transistors - on three legs anyway...

David
G3UNA
 
 From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2008/06/16 Mon PM 06:52:16 BST
 To: 'Elecraft Discussion List' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question
 
 Hi Julius:
 
 I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running the K3
 at 100 watts. Like the K2, I suspect the current draw varies a bit depending
 upon the rig, the actual parameters of some of the transistors, etc. That's
 normal, according to the K3 specs, which rate the current demand at 17-22
 amps at 100 watts in transmit
 
 IMX fuses have a nasty habit of suddenly opening after being cycled a number
 of times near their rated limit, even the 'slo-blo' type that are supposed
 to offer a little resistance against sudden failure when their current limit
 is reached will sometimes open unexpectedly.
 
 I've seen fuses operating near their current limits develop cracks so they
 act like thermal switches, causing power to go off suddenly then, after a
 few seconds (while the fuse cools) suddenly come back on, then switch off
 again as soon as a higher current is drawn such as for transmitting.
 Eventually they fail completely, but in the meantime the symptoms can be
 pretty confusing.  
 
 As a matter of practice I try to allow significant headroom between the
 rating of any fuses and the actual current draw, and I always have spare
 fuses on hand since they can and do fail over time, even if not subjected to
 excessive current. 
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 
 Ron,
 
 I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
 contests, without an issue. 
 
 Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
 setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
 enough wiggle room not to worry too much.
 
 The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)
 
 73,
 Julius
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread David Lankshear
I haven't been able to locate this information in the documentation, so perhaps 
a kind soul could oblige?

In anticipation of a K3/100 kit's arrival, I would like to know the length of 
power cord supplied and also whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable 
with the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation on K2 and K3)? 

Many thanks.

DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread Lyle Johnson

 ...whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable with
the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation
on K2 and K3)? 


Yes, they have the same orientation. I initially ran my K3 with my 
K2/100 cable.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question

2008-06-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Me too, but I realized that the K3 draws somewhat more current than the
K2/100. Depending upon the band antenna, etc., the total current can exceed
the rating of the rating of the 20-amp fuse in the K2/100 power cord. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
  ...whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable with the K3/100 
 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation on K2 and K3)?

Yes, they have the same orientation. I initially ran my K3 with my 
K2/100 cable.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread cx7tt
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?

Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread dolfindon
Hi
 
The K3 has a PowerPole connector on the back of the radio and includes a kit to 
build up a 5 ft cable to plug into the radio. The power supply end is not 
supplied so you will need to connect the bare wires to your power supply or 
supply your own connector for your power supply. The cable kit includes 5 ft of 
#12 red/black zip cord, a set of red and black PowerPole connectors with 
terminal pins and instructions. The instructions recommend soldering the pins.
 
Don Brown
KD5NDB



 Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 19:37:47 +0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power cable  Does the K3 
 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at  least in the 
 kit? Tnx Tom CX7TT ___ 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Lee Buller
Tom,

You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give you the 
connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will have to crimp and 
solder.

Lee
K0WA

 

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Ken Wagner

The connector was *not* installed on the cable in my K3 kit.
73, Ken K3IU

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?

Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in 
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga. 
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end.  I have a West 
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered each terminal.  The 
Elecraft power cable kit is still in its bag, waiting for another project.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at 
least in the kit?


73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread cx7tt

Hey Guys,
Tnx for the quick response...I have no problem with soldering as I did 
build a K2 a few years ago...My just delivered K3 is sitting at a 
friend's house in FL and I will be there this Friday evening. My friend 
does not use power poles so wanted to know if I would be able to set up 
and play with my new 'toy' during the weekend...Hooray...seems that I 
will; leave Monday nite for CX land and so will have it on the air by 
end of week...at least into vertical dipole or such.

Tnx for all the positive comments and c u on the air with #250.
73
Tom
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

You either crimp or Solder - not both
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think

we're not. In either case, the idea is quite staggering.
-Arthur C Clarke, science fiction writer (1917- )

On 17 Mar 2008, at 15:50, Lee Buller wrote:


Tom,

You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give  
you the connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will  
have to crimp and solder.


Lee
K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.   
If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use  
it.  If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody  
who has some Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Mike B

You either crimp or Solder - not both


While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why 
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather odd 
to make such a firm distinction.


If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work, I'll 
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll get 
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of power.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
You are welcome to do both - as long as you don't compromise the  
contact fit inside the housing.


As to whether its worst or even advisable to do both...
I've had people tell me that soldering hardens the point where the  
wire joins the contact and effectively weakens it, because strands can  
break at that point.


I have to say, I would have thought defence contractors would solder  
as well as crimp, if that was considered worthwhile.


FWIW - I havn't soldered any of my crimped APPs.

--
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it  
takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci


On 17 Mar 2008, at 17:33, Mike B wrote:


You either crimp or Solder - not both


While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no  
reason why one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before  
soldering.  I find it rather odd to make such a firm distinction.


If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from  
work, I'll typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.   
Sometimes, though, I'll get picky and do both, such as on lines that  
will be carrying a fair bit of power.


73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Paul Christensen

You either crimp or Solder - not both


I crimp and solder.  But an explanation is in order:

I begin by crimping the PowerPole connector to the stranded wire.  When the 
crimp is complete, I then apply silver bearing solder ONLY to the very tip 
of the stranded wire where it butts up against the connector.  The wire in 
the area of the crimp has NO solder and this is important to ensure that 
wire stresses due to cable movement do not break the wire as if it was a 
solid-conductor.  So, it's the best of two worlds as flexibility at the 
crimp is maintained and I can be sure that long-term resistive loss is 
minimized by the small application of solder.  When using this method, it's 
critical that the stranded wire does not wick the solder up to the crimp 
point and that's another reason why I use silver bearing solder as it 
tendency to flow along the wire is impeded more so than with standard 
lead/tin solder.


Paul, W9AC 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Ed Muns
 You either crimp or Solder - not both

Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.

Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
oxidation and resistance build up.

Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
do, why not quickly provide the added margin?

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Brian Alsop

Ed Muns wrote:


You either crimp or Solder - not both
   



Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.

Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
oxidation and resistance build up.

Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
do, why not quickly provide the added margin?

73,
Ed - W0YK
 

Crimping is only easy to do if you have the tool and are proficient in 
its use.
Some of us need soldering only advice-like where not to get the solder. 
Power pole connectors are new technology to many of us.  
Given the problems I've had with past crimping tools, the first couple 
crimps with a new tool/connector are bad.  That shoots down the two 
connectors supplied.   So I guess if I had to buy a tool,  I'd also get 
a bunch of spare connectors too.  Not the scenerio I like for a $2K rig.

Not an big deal though.
73 de Brian/K3KO.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Darwin, Keith
OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
on the wire to make the power cable.

Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
power cables?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 (soon) - 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
The assembled K3's come with an assembled power cable, you just need
to finish the battery/power supply side.

Jeff

On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Darwin, Keith
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
  on the wire to make the power cable.

  Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
  power cables?

  - Keith N1AS -
  - K2 5411.ssb.100 -
  - K3 Wave 3 (soon) -

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Re: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread d.cutter

I would far prefer a factory pre-assembled power cable, given the expense of 
the correct crimp tool and I far prefer crimping to soldering to a cable with 
no strain relief.

ps I've probably crimped and soldered 100s of thousands of wires.  But this is 
not a crimp tool in my armoury.

David
G3UNA 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread K4IA
Don't over complicate it.  I just used a  plain old wire crimper and solder.

If you want some more strain relief,  put some heat shrink tubing over the 
connector and for about 6 inches up the  wire. Use big tubing at the connector 
and overlap it over smaller tubing up the  wire.  You might have to overlap a 
couple of different sizes to get it to  be snug but it will be very strong.  A 
drop of hot glue on the end of the  power pole would also help.

If you could see the Mickey Mouse job Yaesu  did on the $4000 Quadra control 
cables or the pathetic and wimpy connector  TenTec used for the Orion, you 
wouldn't feel so bad about the power  poles.

k4ia
Buck K3 #101
Fredericksburg, VA  




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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

2008-03-17 Thread Brett Howard
Don't worry about doing both...  It leaves you that much more sure that you
won't lose connection and trust me... The electrons will forgive your soul
for doing both! :)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike B
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

 You either crimp or Solder - not both

While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason
why 
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather
odd 
to make such a firm distinction.

If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work,
I'll 
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll
get 
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of
power.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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