[Elecraft] K3 power supply

[István Szabó]

I have been using my silent SPA 8230 power supply for many years. Its mains
switch started show contact errors, would like to replace it. As QRP Shop
Biz in Germany closed last year need help to find where can I find switch
replacement. Could you please help with the switch type and manufacturer as
its size quite small?
73, István ha4zd
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[James Bennett]

Folks - thanks for all the input. I think I may have found one of the culprits 
in the system - oxidation. I put everything back together the way it was to 
begin with so I could switch back and forth between the K3 and KX3 power 
displays. I have a KXPA100 behind the KX3 so the load on the MFJ 4245 should be 
about the same with either one transmitting 100 watts and the other one 
receiving. What I see now is 13.9 volts on receive and 13.0 - 13.1 during 
transmit. Waay better than the drop to 12.0 I saw yesterday! 

I might get ambitious and “upgrade” the cables from #12 to #10 and ensure that 
the APP contacts used are the 30 or 45 amp versions. Will also look into a 
re-design of the Boost Regulator’s position in the power system. RIght now it 
supplies boosted power to the Rig Runner. I think it’ll be an easy matter to 
swap some cabling around and have the output of the Power Gate go to the Rig 
Runner and have the Boost Regulator tie into the Rig Runner, delivering it’s 
output directly to the KX3, K3, and KXPA100. I believe this is one of the 
suggestions made by W3FPR. I’m pretty sure my desk lamp and the PX3 won’t mind 
only having 12.8 v instead of 13.9! :-)

73, Jim

Jim Bennett / W6JHB
Folsom, CA



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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[j...@kk9a.com]

Yes large diameter cable is required if you want to keep the TX voltage
high. I also replaced the Elecraft 12ga? supplied cable with 10 gauge when
using the small switching power supply while traveling. I use 8 gauge at
home since my cable is longer but it was tricky stuffing this into the
tiny PowerPole connector.

John KK9A

Jim Brown said:
Fri Mar 10 01:42:27 EST 2017

On Thu,3/9/2017 9:29 PM, George Thornton wrote:
>  From what I am learning the K3 needs a strong, stable power supply to
be reliable.

ANY ham rig needs that. :)  At 100W, the K3 draws about 20A keydown. Do
Ohm's Law on the wiring between the power supply and the K3. The simple
answer is short, fat copper, straight from the supply to the radio. AND
good quality connectors. Those power distribution strips can easily drop
a volt or so. I run #10-2 to my radios.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,3/9/2017 9:29 PM, George Thornton wrote:

 From what I am learning the K3 needs a strong, stable power supply to be 
reliable.


ANY ham rig needs that. :)  At 100W, the K3 draws about 20A keydown. Do 
Ohm's Law on the wiring between the power supply and the K3. The simple 
answer is short, fat copper, straight from the supply to the radio. AND 
good quality connectors. Those power distribution strips can easily drop 
a volt or so. I run #10-2 to my radios.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Nr4c]

Minimize all cable lengths. No more than necessary.

Verify (actually look at) that SLL APP connectors are FULLY SEATED!  Meaning 
inspect the open end for seeing only one price of metal. Check the Anderson web 
site for a cut away picture of the cross-section of a properly assembled APP. 

I use #10 wire for my K3 cables. 

Use PowerGate to charge battery and  run accessories. Run radio from separate 
cable to PS. 

When power goes out reconnect radio to battery. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 10, 2017, at 12:00 AM, James Bennett  wrote:
> 
> I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
> change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.
> 
> To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the 
> Rig Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 
> that used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
> basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
> picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
> connectors.
> 
> Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
> ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The 
> voltage dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable 
> out of the K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into 
> the K3. With this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) 
> the voltage dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot 
> length of cable and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.
> 
> So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have 
> to conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
> drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power 
> Gate, Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the 
> circuit, in addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 
> 4245 directly to the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but 
> that kinda defeats the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and 
> a power distribution system. I thought this issue would be solved by 
> replacing the MFJ PS with something else, but it is looking a LOT more 
> complex at this point. Crap - what is one supposed to do? 
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Jim,
>> 
>> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
>> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame 
>> the power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem 
>> is voltage drop in the power cabling.
>> 
>> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
>> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Bill Frantz]

I connect my voltage boost, like yours a N8XJK, between the 
power supply mess and the K3. (I run it in RF Enabled mode.) 
That results in my K3 getting the voltage it needs, and the 
voltage loss in all the other connections getting made up.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/9/17 at 9:00 PM, w6...@me.com (James Bennett) wrote:


Crap - what is one supposed to do?

---
Bill Frantz|Security, like correctness, is| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  |not an add-on feature. - Attr-| 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |ibuted to Andrew Tanenbaum| Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[George Thornton]

I am using an Astron 35 amp ps.

I did not use a dmm, just the meter on the k3.  I only got a .2 drop when I 
connected direct with a five foot thick gauge wire.  But using the same pwrgate 
setup as yours it dropped a full volt or more on transmit.

A friend had problems running in a mobile setting with battery backup he went 
to a voltage boost regulator and it all works.

From what I am learning the K3 needs a strong, stable power supply to be 
reliable.





From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James 
Bennett
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 9:01 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.

To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the Rig 
Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 that 
used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
connectors.

Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The voltage 
dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable out of the 
K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into the K3. With 
this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) the voltage 
dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot length of cable 
and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.

So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have to 
conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power Gate, 
Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the circuit, in 
addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 4245 directly to 
the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but that kinda defeats 
the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and a power distribution 
system. I thought this issue would be solved by replacing the MFJ PS with 
something else, but it is looking a LOT more complex at this point. Crap - what 
is one supposed to do?

Jim / W6JHB






> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm 
> <donw...@embarqmail.com><mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com%3e> wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
> power supply. But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
> voltage drop in the power cabling.
>
> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.
>
> If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply 
> to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner. Run the accessories 
> in the shack from the rigrunner.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
>> Hi All -
>>
>> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
>> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
>> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
>> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
>> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
>> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
>> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
>> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
>> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
>> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[James Bennett]

I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.

To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the Rig 
Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 that 
used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
connectors.

Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The voltage 
dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable out of the 
K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into the K3. With 
this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) the voltage 
dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot length of cable 
and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.

So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have to 
conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power Gate, 
Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the circuit, in 
addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 4245 directly to 
the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but that kinda defeats 
the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and a power distribution 
system. I thought this issue would be solved by replacing the MFJ PS with 
something else, but it is looking a LOT more complex at this point. Crap - what 
is one supposed to do? 

Jim / W6JHB






> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> 
> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
> power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
> voltage drop in the power cabling.
> 
> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.
> 
> If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply 
> to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the accessories 
> in the shack from the rigrunner.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
>> Hi All -
>> 
>> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
>> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
>> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
>> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
>> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
>> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
>> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
>> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
>> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
>> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Bill Johnson]

Don, Excellent advice!  While I have a little bit of voltage drop, will run a 
parallel set of leads directly to my battery charged by my PowerGate PG40 s 
directly rather than through the rigrunner.  Connection resistance was removed  
 years ago but your suggestion cuts out two connectors.  I like that a lot.  
Why didn't I think of that 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


 Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 7:24 PM
To: James Bennett <w6...@me.com>; Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
<elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

Jim,

Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
voltage drop in the power cabling.

The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.

If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply to 
the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the accessories in 
the shack from the rigrunner.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
> Hi All -
>
> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I run an Astron 50 amp linear supply and a 4' cord between it and the K2
I see .6 of a volt drop on keydown at 100 watts






  From: James Bennett <w6...@me.com>
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
 Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 8:09 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question
   
Hi All -

I’ve been powering my station for anywhere from 7 - 9 years (can’t recall 
exactly how long!) with an MFJ4245MV switching power supply. I use it in 
conjunction with a 72 watt GE solar panel, 110 Ah AGM battery, ProStar charge 
controller, N8XJK Boost Regulator, and a KI0BK Low Loss PowerGate. All cables 
have been fitted with multiple mix 31 ferrite dounts with multiple wraps - I’ve 
got pretty much NO RF hash on any of the HF bands on the K3 or my KX3. All the 
above power equipment feeds into a Rig Runner 4008. Anderson PowerPole 
connectors connect to as short as possible #12 cable to several devices: K3, 
P3, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and a home brew W6PQL 2 meter all mode amp.

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement. 

Am I wrong for expecting a desk power supply to do better than this? I had 
purchased this 4245 years ago because the price was right AND that it can run 
on 117 or 220 volts. At one time I had been contemplating a move to the 
Philippines and a 220v supply would be needed. By the way, nothing else running 
here in the shack other than a computer which was in sleep mode anyway, so line 
voltage sag likely is not the issue.

So, if this this a common problem with the MFJ stuff, what other 25+ amp 
supplies are folks using with their K3’s that have better regulation than 15%?

Jim / W6JHB







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply 
terminals.
If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can 
blame the power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the 
problem is voltage drop in the power cabling.


The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points 
and even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.


If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power 
supply to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the 
accessories in the shack from the rigrunner.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:

Hi All -

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.


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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[James Bennett]

Hi All -

I’ve been powering my station for anywhere from 7 - 9 years (can’t recall 
exactly how long!) with an MFJ4245MV switching power supply. I use it in 
conjunction with a 72 watt GE solar panel, 110 Ah AGM battery, ProStar charge 
controller, N8XJK Boost Regulator, and a KI0BK Low Loss PowerGate. All cables 
have been fitted with multiple mix 31 ferrite dounts with multiple wraps - I’ve 
got pretty much NO RF hash on any of the HF bands on the K3 or my KX3. All the 
above power equipment feeds into a Rig Runner 4008. Anderson PowerPole 
connectors connect to as short as possible #12 cable to several devices: K3, 
P3, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and a home brew W6PQL 2 meter all mode amp.

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement. 

Am I wrong for expecting a desk power supply to do better than this? I had 
purchased this 4245 years ago because the price was right AND that it can run 
on 117 or 220 volts. At one time I had been contemplating a move to the 
Philippines and a 220v supply would be needed. By the way, nothing else running 
here in the shack other than a computer which was in sleep mode anyway, so line 
voltage sag likely is not the issue.

So, if this this a common problem with the MFJ stuff, what other 25+ amp 
supplies are folks using with their K3’s that have better regulation than 15%?

Jim / W6JHB







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

If your fuseholders are of the 3AG type, consider replacing them with 
the blade type fuseholders which have much better contact resistance 
characteristics.  The in-line 3AG fuseholders often do not have 
sufficient pressure contact with the ends of the fuse for a good 
connection.  Poor connections to the fuse will cause the fuseholders to 
heat and also cause extra voltage drops in the power cable.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/16/2015 4:12 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have installed 
fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.

Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was getting a low voltage 
warning before I would have expected it. On examining the power cable, I found 
the fuse holders to be warm to the touch. I expect that is what was causing the 
voltage drop.

However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are you using 
to protect your k3?

73
John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

John, out of curiosity.What size wire you are using, and how long is the wire 
between the Radio and the Battery? 

PS:  Contrary to what some believe, the FUSE in a power cable is not there to 
protect the Radio. 
 But there to protect the  Power Cable  from starting a fire. 

73 Milverton / W9MMS

  From: J tsc...@gmail.com
 To: 'John, 9H5G' kk4...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 3:16 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses
   
You might closely examine the type of connections inside the holders.  Some
aftermarket automotive fuse holders have poorly crimped connections and
might pass a quick resistance check, but

73,
Jay
W6CJ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John,
9H5G
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 13:12
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have installed
fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.

Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was getting a low
voltage warning before I would have expected it. On examining the power
cable, I found the fuse holders to be warm to the touch. I expect that is
what was causing the voltage drop.

However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are you
using to protect your k3?

73
John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Bill Frantz]

I power my K3 from three sealed lead-acid batteries charged from 
a solar panel. I have an inline fuse holder for automotive fuses 
in the plus lead to each of the batteries. They have OES 
stamped into the plastic covers.


If the fuse holders are warm to the touch, and there is not 
other source of heat nearby, then you have your smoking gun and 
that is where your problem lies. To trouble shoot this class of 
problems, measure voltage drops through the power supply wiring 
system. If there is a largish drop anywhere, find out why and 
correct it.


I had to trouble shoot my battery setup with a dummy load and a 
brick on a straight key to discovered that the RigRunner part of 
the system wasn't able to carry full transmit load. Now there is 
a wire directly from the battery junction connector to the K3.


Note that in an automotive installation, you need to fuse both 
the positive and negative leads. Fusing the positive lead is 
enough to cover most of the obvious failures -- radio develops 
dead short, a bare wire touches chassis etc. If the lead between 
the negative side of the battery and the chassis of the car (or 
a bolt on the engine) becomes loose, then when cranking the 
starter, the current from the starter may find a route through 
your antenna connection, radio and back to the battery. You want 
a fuse that will blow if this rare situation occurs.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/16/15 at 1:12 PM, kk4...@gmail.com (John, 9H5G) wrote:

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have 
installed fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.


Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was 
getting a low voltage warning before I would have expected it. 
On examining the power cable, I found the fuse holders to be 
warm to the touch. I expect that is what was causing the 
voltage drop.

---
Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |   - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Matt Zilmer]

Hi John,

The KX3's KXPA100 amplifier's power cable has two inline fuses in
waterproof enclosures, one for each of the supply cables.  They take
standard automotive fuses, and they're very robust.  If you bought (or
scrounged) a KXPA100 power supply cable, it would work well since it
has APPs on one end, already crimped on.

I've never had the problem you mentioned with the KXPA100's fuses.

Anyway, just an idea.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Mon, 16 Mar 2015 16:12:05 -0400, you wrote:

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have installed 
fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.

Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was getting a low voltage 
warning before I would have expected it. On examining the power cable, I found 
the fuse holders to be warm to the touch. I expect that is what was causing 
the voltage drop.

However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are you using 
to protect your k3?

73
John, KK4OYJ


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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
Always store beer in a dark place.  -R. Heinlein

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Rick WA6NHC]

I use 40A  self-resetting automotive circuit breakers (pos/neg) in my 
truck (not the K Line station) which protects the wiring nicely, are 
sealed and I've never had to muss with them.  I then fuse the radios, at 
the radios, with the appropriate fuses.


Rick wa6nhc

On 3/16/2015 2:18 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:


Note that in an automotive installation, you need to fuse both the 
positive and negative leads.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Gary Gregory]

Fred,
As are lead acid batteries.

I have been using AGM batteries for years now with the K3 plus blade fuses
also.

Portable ops 24/7 here

Gary
Vk1ZZ
K3, KX3, KPA500-FT, KAT500-FT,P3.
On 17/03/2015 9:06 AM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 I've been using the automotive blade-type fuses for several years and find
 them to be very low resistance which remains constant over time. The wiping
 action also keeps the contacts clean.  They're the ones in the RigRunner
 distribution boxes.  In-line cartridge fuse holders are problematical.

 73,

 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
 - www.cqp.org

 On 3/16/2015 1:12 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:

  However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are
 you using to protect your k3?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[Fred Jensen]

I've been using the automotive blade-type fuses for several years and 
find them to be very low resistance which remains constant over time. 
The wiping action also keeps the contacts clean.  They're the ones in 
the RigRunner distribution boxes.  In-line cartridge fuse holders are 
problematical.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

On 3/16/2015 1:12 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:


However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are
you using to protect your k3?

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[Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[John, 9H5G]

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have installed 
fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.

Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was getting a low voltage 
warning before I would have expected it. On examining the power cable, I found 
the fuse holders to be warm to the touch. I expect that is what was causing the 
voltage drop.

However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are you using 
to protect your k3?

73
John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

[J]

You might closely examine the type of connections inside the holders.  Some
aftermarket automotive fuse holders have poorly crimped connections and
might pass a quick resistance check, but

73,
Jay
W6CJ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John,
9H5G
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 13:12
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power supply fuses

My K3 is powered from a car battery as I am always /P. I have installed
fast-blow fuses rated at 25 A in each of the supply lines.

Operating at 80W RTTY this afternoon, I noted that I was getting a low
voltage warning before I would have expected it. On examining the power
cable, I found the fuse holders to be warm to the touch. I expect that is
what was causing the voltage drop.

However, may I ask what specific (make , model) of fuse holders are you
using to protect your k3?

73
John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Fred Smith]

I've never heard of a 1225 but have a 1223 and a 1235. I have both and they
have been running strong 27/7 for just about 7 years never a single problem.
But I do have proper voltage to run them also. QST did find them a best buy
and not long ago either I can attest to that also and no noise.

I seems like you must have some sort of problem on your end as I know a lot
of people with and no problems with them either. In fact I spoke to a dealer
and he told me they have the least amount of returns on them than any other
power supply in its class.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Zilmer
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 9:55 PM
To: Randy Cook
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

Well, shucks.  Maybe I'll have to buy one of 'em.  The Samlex 1235 is still
going strong here, but can't have too many PSU's around!

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:51:46 -1000, you wrote:

Second the Powerwerx recommendation, small and quiet.  I previously had 
two 1225 Samlex power supplies. Both died early, first one under 
warranty. HRO sent the unit in for repair (apparently in Canada), took 
over a month to get a replacement supply. That unit failed soon after 
the 90 day replacement warranty.  I gave up with them after I couldn't 
find a tech support person who could help. Lots of K3'ers seem to use 
them successfully, however. YMMV
73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




On Jun 12, 2013, at 6:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3
 Message-ID: E5D3792E20C24B5CB4EED84D5F9106DB@wa5poklaptop
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original
 
 The Powerwerx is good ... been running one for about 6 months on my 
 K3
 
 73, Mike WA5POK

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6403 - Release Date: 06/11/13

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Randy Cook]

Second the Powerwerx recommendation, small and quiet.  I previously had two 
1225 Samlex power supplies. Both died early, first one under warranty. HRO sent 
the unit in for repair (apparently in Canada), took over a month to get a 
replacement supply. That unit failed soon after the 90 day replacement 
warranty.  I gave up with them after I couldn't find a tech support person who 
could help. Lots of K3'ers seem to use them successfully, however. YMMV
73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




On Jun 12, 2013, at 6:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3
 Message-ID: E5D3792E20C24B5CB4EED84D5F9106DB@wa5poklaptop
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
   reply-type=original
 
 The Powerwerx is good ... been running one for about 6 months on my K3
 
 73, Mike WA5POK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Matt Zilmer]

Well, shucks.  Maybe I'll have to buy one of 'em.  The Samlex 1235 is
still going strong here, but can't have too many PSU's around!

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:51:46 -1000, you wrote:

Second the Powerwerx recommendation, small and quiet.  I previously had two 
1225 Samlex power supplies. Both died early, first one under warranty. HRO 
sent the unit in for repair (apparently in Canada), took over a month to get a 
replacement supply. That unit failed soon after the 90 day replacement 
warranty.  I gave up with them after I couldn't find a tech support person who 
could help. Lots of K3'ers seem to use them successfully, however. YMMV
73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




On Jun 12, 2013, at 6:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3
 Message-ID: E5D3792E20C24B5CB4EED84D5F9106DB@wa5poklaptop
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original
 
 The Powerwerx is good ... been running one for about 6 months on my K3
 
 73, Mike WA5POK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

FWIW, I've been running my K3 off of an Astron 20A for six years without a
hitch. 

Yes, the K3 is rated to draw more than 20A on some bands but not enough over
to trip the over-current circuit. 

And the 20A is rated ICAS (intermittent commercial and amateur service),
which is the load the K3 puts on it. The heat sinking in the 20A is plenty
to handle that load without problem. 

Perhaps it's the curmudgeon in me, but I still avoid switching power
supplies like the plague. But then I don't have to carry one around much. In
the field I'm QRP and on batteries. 

73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Dr. William J. Schmidt, II]

I use the Samlex exclusively because I do a lot of island jumping and need
something small and light.  I've had mine on several islands, made tens of
thousands of contacts with it in heat and odd voltages.  Just keeps ticking.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ/ PJ4HZ
 
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois
 
email:  b...@wjschmidt.com

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Zilmer
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:55 PM
To: Randy Cook
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

Well, shucks.  Maybe I'll have to buy one of 'em.  The Samlex 1235 is
still going strong here, but can't have too many PSU's around!

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:51:46 -1000, you wrote:

Second the Powerwerx recommendation, small and quiet.  I previously had two
1225 Samlex power supplies. Both died early, first one under warranty. HRO
sent the unit in for repair (apparently in Canada), took over a month to get
a replacement supply. That unit failed soon after the 90 day replacement
warranty.  I gave up with them after I couldn't find a tech support person
who could help. Lots of K3'ers seem to use them successfully, however. YMMV
73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




On Jun 12, 2013, at 6:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3
 Message-ID: E5D3792E20C24B5CB4EED84D5F9106DB@wa5poklaptop
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original
 
 The Powerwerx is good ... been running one for about 6 months on my K3
 
 73, Mike WA5POK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Matt Zilmer]

FWIW, I've had my Samlex on 24/7 for about 4 years now.  This is
approx. 32,000 hours with no malfunctions.  The 1235 outputs into a
transfer switch and the other input comes from a solar charge
controller with 100W of PV on the roof.  The transfer switch feeds an
Optima D31 75AH battery, which feeds everything else in the shack.

Just keeps ticking is my observation too, but even before today I've
heard of support issues.  There were several mentions of this problem
in private emails back to me.  I've not experienced this myself, but
I've never needed to contact Samlex (well... yet).

Still - can't have too many power supplies!

Around here, the rest of my supplies are Astron (RS50, RS35, RS20,
RS11 switcher).  Don't use 'em much any more  And they are
reliable but very heavy, except for the switcher.

73,
matt W6NIA
QRP Ranch  :)
Upland, CA.

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 23:20:48 -0400, you wrote:

I use the Samlex exclusively because I do a lot of island jumping and need
something small and light.  I've had mine on several islands, made tens of
thousands of contacts with it in heat and odd voltages.  Just keeps ticking.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ/ PJ4HZ
 
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois
 
email:  b...@wjschmidt.com

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Zilmer
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:55 PM
To: Randy Cook
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

Well, shucks.  Maybe I'll have to buy one of 'em.  The Samlex 1235 is
still going strong here, but can't have too many PSU's around!

73,
matt W6NIA

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 16:51:46 -1000, you wrote:

Second the Powerwerx recommendation, small and quiet.  I previously had two
1225 Samlex power supplies. Both died early, first one under warranty. HRO
sent the unit in for repair (apparently in Canada), took over a month to get
a replacement supply. That unit failed soon after the 90 day replacement
warranty.  I gave up with them after I couldn't find a tech support person
who could help. Lots of K3'ers seem to use them successfully, however. YMMV
73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




On Jun 12, 2013, at 6:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies for K3
 Message-ID: E5D3792E20C24B5CB4EED84D5F9106DB@wa5poklaptop
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original
 
 The Powerwerx is good ... been running one for about 6 months on my K3
 
 73, Mike WA5POK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Fred Townsend]

Gary, you may be trying to chop the cabbage a bit finer than necessary. If
you take a close look at the input power circuit for the K3 you will see the
power pole voltage is the voltage seen by the circuit breaker and the 100W
amp. The voltage measured by the K3 is after the polyfuse (12A) which feeds
the receiver, fan, and P3 (via the power socket). The fuse drops a little
voltage which is why there is a slight difference in readings. The higher
voltage does not affect the receiver because there are several series
regulators (9V  5V) that derive their supply from 12A  (post fuse 12V). In
the end it is not that critical except the 100W amp will run cleaner and
cooler as the voltage goes up. Also your external power supply, if linear,
will also run slightly cooler as the output voltage is adjusted upwards.
There will be negligible temperature drop on switching supplies. Of course
there are limits as to how high you can raise the input voltage. Read your
K3 input power specification for this value.

73
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary K9GS
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 8:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

I have a question on adjusting the voltage a bit higher for use with the K3.
I was thinking of 14.5 V, as others have mentioned, and adjusting voltage on
receive.

I have an accurate voltmeter.

Should I set the voltage with the voltmeter measuring at the DC input to the
K3 (at the power pole into the radio) or should I use the internal voltmeter
in the K3?





On 4/16/2013 9:05 AM, Mike Reublin wrote:
 I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad
for the K3.

 Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

 73, Mike NF4L

 On Apr 16, 2013, at 8:03 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
wrote:

 The K3 in question is a K3/100.  Thanks,

 Tom



 On Apr 16, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
wrote:

 Good morning everyone ,

 I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to
purchase. Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble
free power supply?

 Thanks

 Tom
 WD5DFE


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-- 


73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org Society of Midwest
Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Eugene Balinski]

Another vote for the RM-35. I have had mine for over 30
years.  Not an issue. 

Note however that Astron over specs their power supplies.
 They claim that the RS-35 will do 25A continuous.  It will
not.  It gets too darn hot.  Given the heatsink, it should
do about 20 continuous.   This is with static air cooling,
no forced air. 

That being said, the RS-35 powered all 12 volt equipment in
my shack including the 120W HF radio, TNC, 50W 2m radio for
packet and dx cluster, and any othe vhf or other radios
that I wanted on.  I have seen the ammeter move past 33A
when the SSB voice peaks combine with the transmit cycle of
the packet radio, with no issues.  

73
Gene K1NR
K2, KX3


On Tue, 16 Apr 2013 21:05:18 -0700 (PDT)
 Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Use your meter.  BTW, I second, third, fourth... the
 recommendation of the RM-35.  Mine has been converted to
 a smart charger that keeps a 95AH AGM battery charged,
 but before that was used normally without incident.
 
 --- On Tue, 4/16/13, Gary K9GS garyk...@wi.rr.com
 wrote:
 
 From: Gary K9GS garyk...@wi.rr.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, April 16, 2013, 9:56 PM
 
 I have a question on adjusting the voltage a bit higher
 for use with the 
 K3. I was thinking of 14.5 V, as others have mentioned,
 and adjusting 
 voltage on receive.
 
 I have an accurate voltmeter.
 
 Should I set the voltage with the voltmeter measuring at
 the DC input to 
 the K3 (at the power pole into the radio) or should I use
 the internal 
 voltmeter in the K3?
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendation

[Edward R Cole]

Wes,

As that may be (it depends on ambient air temp), most hams are not 
transmitting key-down for extended time.  In the communication 
industry the duty-cycle for Tx to Rx time is assumed to be 10%.  Most 
FM equipment is equipped with time out timers that stop continuous 
transmission after 3-minutes.  Since I will assume you are not 
talking about FM or AM or digital modes like WSJT, the class of 
service is ICAS and not CCS.  The Astron 35 will handle 25amps quite 
nicely.  25a x 13.8v = 345w.  This is probably way above the typical 
100w RF CW/SSB radio dc load.  If the amplifier runs at 60% 
efficiency it will draw 167w (about 12amps).  Add the load of the 
radio this probably is not more than 17amps.  You can probably add a 
VHF radio sitting in Rx and still not exceed 25amps (and that is only 
drawn in transmit 10% of the time of use).


If you run any of the modes that are CCS then adding some air cooling 
is not a bad idea.  I have fans on my high power VHF and UHF amps to 
just have a bit more tolerance to heat.  I do use them for FM 
somewhat, and also are used as drivers for WSJT-eme for the 8877 
final.  Duty-cycle of WSJT (JT65) is 50% (one minute cycles of 
key-down followed by one-minute receive).  This is hard-duty on ham 
equipment so lower the RF power if you run these.  I run 55-60w on my 
150w amp to drive the 8877 to 1300-1400w.


My station Astron 50M is fused at the distribution panel for 30A so 
never exceeds this in any mode.  I have a lot of equipment running at 
the same time.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com
To: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com,elecraft@mailman.qth.net,
garyk...@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
Message-ID: web-493727...@admin.nni.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Another vote for the RM-35. I have had mine for over 30
years.  Not an issue.

Note however that Astron over specs their power supplies.
 They claim that the RS-35 will do 25A continuous.  It will
not.  It gets too darn hot.  Given the heatsink, it should
do about 20 continuous.   This is with static air cooling,
no forced air.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendation

[george fritkin]

My shack consists of 20 transceivers.  I think [!!] only 4 run directly on AC 
power.  The rest run from 12 VDC.  My power supplies range from 35A Astrons to 
El Cheapo switchers.  In the past 8 years the only power supply failure I  
had was an Astron. Do not over buy
 
George, W6GF
 


 From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendation
  

Wes,

As that may be (it depends on ambient air temp), most hams are not transmitting 
key-down for extended time.  In the communication industry the duty-cycle for 
Tx to Rx time is assumed to be 10%.  Most FM equipment is equipped with time 
out timers that stop continuous transmission after 3-minutes.  Since I will 
assume you are not talking about FM or AM or digital modes like WSJT, the class 
of service is ICAS and not CCS.  The Astron 35 will handle 25amps quite nicely. 
 25a x 13.8v = 345w.  This is probably way above the typical 100w RF CW/SSB 
radio dc load.  If the amplifier runs at 60% efficiency it will draw 167w 
(about 12amps).  Add the load of the radio this probably is not more than 
17amps.  You can probably add a VHF radio sitting in Rx and still not exceed 
25amps (and that is only drawn in transmit 10% of the time of use).

If you run any of the modes that are CCS then adding some air cooling is not a 
bad idea.  I have fans on my high power VHF and UHF amps to just have a bit 
more tolerance to heat.  I do use them for FM somewhat, and also are used as 
drivers for WSJT-eme for the 8877 final.  Duty-cycle of WSJT (JT65) is 50% (one 
minute cycles of key-down followed by one-minute receive).  This is hard-duty 
on ham equipment so lower the RF power if you run these.  I run 55-60w on my 
150w amp to drive the 8877 to 1300-1400w.

My station Astron 50M is fused at the distribution panel for 30A so never 
exceeds this in any mode.  I have a lot of equipment running at the same time.

73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com
To: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com,elecraft@mailman.qth.net,
    garyk...@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
Message-ID: web-493727...@admin.nni.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Another vote for the RM-35. I have had mine for over 30
years.  Not an issue.

Note however that Astron over specs their power supplies.
They claim that the RS-35 will do 25A continuous.  It will
not.  It gets too darn hot.  Given the heatsink, it should
do about 20 continuous.   This is with static air cooling,
no forced air.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendation

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

For a small compact supply the PowerWerx supplies from West Mountain 
Radio are great.  They have a cooling fan and will work on 220 or 110.


For my shack supplies I have Astron RM35 and I think a RM50.

On 4/17/2013 11:19 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Wes,

As that may be (it depends on ambient air temp), most hams are not 
transmitting key-down for extended time.  In the communication 
industry the duty-cycle for Tx to Rx time is assumed to be 10%. Most 
FM equipment is equipped with time out timers that stop continuous 
transmission after 3-minutes.  Since I will assume you are not talking 
about FM or AM or digital modes like WSJT, the class of service is 
ICAS and not CCS.  The Astron 35 will handle 25amps quite nicely.  25a 
x 13.8v = 345w.  This is probably way above the typical 100w RF CW/SSB 
radio dc load.  If the amplifier runs at 60% efficiency it will draw 
167w (about 12amps).  Add the load of the radio this probably is not 
more than 17amps.  You can probably add a VHF radio sitting in Rx and 
still not exceed 25amps (and that is only drawn in transmit 10% of the 
time of use).


If you run any of the modes that are CCS then adding some air cooling 
is not a bad idea.  I have fans on my high power VHF and UHF amps to 
just have a bit more tolerance to heat.  I do use them for FM 
somewhat, and also are used as drivers for WSJT-eme for the 8877 
final.  Duty-cycle of WSJT (JT65) is 50% (one minute cycles of 
key-down followed by one-minute receive).  This is hard-duty on ham 
equipment so lower the RF power if you run these.  I run 55-60w on my 
150w amp to drive the 8877 to 1300-1400w.


My station Astron 50M is fused at the distribution panel for 30A so 
never exceeds this in any mode.  I have a lot of equipment running at 
the same time.


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com
To: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com,elecraft@mailman.qth.net,
garyk...@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
Message-ID: web-493727...@admin.nni.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Another vote for the RM-35. I have had mine for over 30
years.  Not an issue.

Note however that Astron over specs their power supplies.
 They claim that the RS-35 will do 25A continuous.  It will
not.  It gets too darn hot.  Given the heatsink, it should
do about 20 continuous.   This is with static air cooling,
no forced air.

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[Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Tom Branton]

Good morning everyone ,

I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. Any 
purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power supply?

Thanks

Tom
WD5DFE


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Tom Branton]

The K3 in question is a K3/100.  Thanks,

Tom



On Apr 16, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:

 Good morning everyone ,
 
 I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. 
 Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power 
 supply?
 
 Thanks
 
 Tom
 WD5DFE
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[D Joyce]

GM Tom:  I've found the Astron RS-35M to work just fine except that the 
light in the ampmeter went out and I would have to replace the complete 
meter to resolve the problem - so I just ignore that meter.  Otherwise it 
just keeps on working and has been on  14 to 16 hours per day since I got it 
about 3 years ago.


73,  Doug  VE3MV


- Original Message - 
From: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu

To: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations



The K3 in question is a K3/100.  Thanks,

Tom



On Apr 16, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu 
wrote:



Good morning everyone ,

I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to 
purchase. Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and 
trouble free power supply?


Thanks

Tom
WD5DFE



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Fred Smith]

Astron RS-35M supply for a base unit, still room for some headroom for extra
items.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Branton
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 6:27 AM
To: Tom Branton
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

Good morning everyone ,

I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase.
Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power
supply?

Thanks

Tom
WD5DFE


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 4:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:
 I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. 
 Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power 
 supply?

This is a recurring topic - search for k3 power supply at
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ for ample regurgitation ;)

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Mike Reublin]

I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad for 
the K3. 

Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

73, Mike NF4L

On Apr 16, 2013, at 8:03 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:

 The K3 in question is a K3/100.  Thanks,
 
 Tom
 
 
 
 On Apr 16, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:
 
 Good morning everyone ,
 
 I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. 
 Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power 
 supply?
 
 Thanks
 
 Tom
 WD5DFE
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Richard Fjeld]

I haven't pulled the cover on my RS-35M yet.  Does it have adequate clearance 
to get to the pot, or did you have to improvise?

Rich, n0ce

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike Reublin 
  To: Tom Branton 
  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 9:05 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations


  I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad 
for the K3. 

  Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

  73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Depends on the version ... some pots are mounted vertically,
some flat, some have holes in the board to adjust through, etc.

My preference is the RS-35A ... the non-metered version.  I find the
metering not that accurate.  Since the supplies are mounted below
the bench and I usually get the DVM when setting them up, I don't
see a justification for the added expense G.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/16/2013 10:37 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I haven't pulled the cover on my RS-35M yet.  Does it have adequate clearance 
to get to the pot, or did you have to improvise?

Rich, n0ce

   - Original Message -
   From: Mike Reublin
   To: Tom Branton
   Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 9:05 AM
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations


   I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad 
for the K3.

   Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

   73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[tnnyswy]

Now would be a good time to pull the cover off.

73 Milverton






 From: Richard Fjeld rpfj...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft posting elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Mike Reublin n...@nf4l.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
 

I haven't pulled the cover on my RS-35M yet.  Does it have adequate clearance 
to get to the pot, or did you have to improvise?

Rich, n0ce

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike Reublin 
  To: Tom Branton 
  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 9:05 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations


  I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad 
for the K3. 

  Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

  73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[wa5pok]

As of late I have been using a Powerwerx SS-30DV and I have been very 
pleased so far.

http://www.powerwerx.com/power-supplies/powerwerx-30-amp-desktop-switching-power-supply-powerpoles.html

73, Mike WA5POK

--
From: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:26 AM
To: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations


Good morning everyone ,

I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. 
Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free 
power supply?


Thanks

Tom
WD5DFE


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Bill]

My RS-35A has been on and in use 24/7 (except during storms and 
vacations) for well over 25 years. I plan on replacing it just because 
this summer - with a new one.


Bill W2BLC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

One of mine is over 30 years old ... it gets opened about one
a year to have the dust blown out, have screws/bolts checked
(filter cap terminals, etc.) and the output voltage gets checked.
Never a bit of trouble ...

My newer unit is perhaps five years old ... it gets the same
treatment also no problems.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/16/2013 11:27 AM, Bill wrote:

My RS-35A has been on and in use 24/7 (except during storms and
vacations) for well over 25 years. I plan on replacing it just because
this summer - with a new one.

Bill W2BLC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Keith Heimbold]

I use either my Astron RS70M or my RS35M at my shack in San Diego. Both are 
really great. I got the larger astron for use with a couple larger mobile solid 
state amps and my TS480hx.

I also have a powererx 30 amp power supply and a RS35 (no meter) at my other 
shack in Texas. Both of those power supplies work well also.

Keith
AK6ZZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Apr 16, 2013, at 4:27 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:

 Good morning everyone ,
 
 I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. 
 Any purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power 
 supply?
 
 Thanks
 
 Tom
 WD5DFE
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Vic K2VCO]

If it ain't broke ... just open it up, blow out the dust, and tighten all of the screws 
that connect the capacitors to the board. Then make sure the bolts on the output 
connectors are tight, too.

Then settle back and use it for another 25 years.

On 4/16/2013 8:27 AM, Bill wrote:
My RS-35A has been on and in use 24/7 (except during storms and vacations) for well over 
25 years. I plan on replacing it just because this summer - with a new one.


Bill W2BLC


--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Jim Wiley]

Bill -

Older Astron power supplies can continue to give good service, there is 
no reason to replace it unlessit seems to have a problem.


One of the things that does go bad in these supplies, particularly ones 
of this vintage, is that the main filter capacitor loses its 
microfarads(dries out).  The capacitor has to handle a fairly large 
ripple current, especially if the power supply is working hard, and that 
in turn can have detrimental effects onthe big capacitor.   I recently 
encountered a RS-35A with exactly that symptom, the power would dip 
momentarily at voice peaks when running a 100-watt transceiver.  The 
voltage was fine for receiving and anything less than full output, but 
when  a big voice (or CW) peak came along that demanded more than about 
16 amperes from the supply, it lost regulation, which caused all sorts 
of weird and wonderful things to happen to the transceiver -such as loss 
of PLL lock, frequency shifting, mode shifting, and so on. .


The cure was to replace the 30,000 uFd / 30V capacitor in the RS-35A 
with a newunit.  As it turned out, new capacitors of that exact 
specification were a bit hard to find, and expensive, but a search of 
theMouser catalog turned up a great choice. I found a 33,000 uFd / 35 
volt unit for a reasonable price (about $35.00 including priority mail 
postage).  The new cap is both a bit smaller (physically) than the 
original, and has significantly better specifications.  The Mouser part 
number is 647-LNT1V333MSE.  The new capacitor has the same connection 
terminal spacing, so the control board just bolted on.  I did mount the 
board slightly differently, but that is justpersonal preference.  The 
original mounting method will work fine.


Here (I hope) isa direct link to the Mouser catalog page: 
647-LNT1V333MSE 
https://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=LNT1V333MSEvirtualkey6470virtualkey647-LNT1V333MSE


Result: The oldAstron gets  new lease on life - it works just like brand 
new, and I expect may more yearsof service.


Perhaps the Astron RS-35A that you have is still working OK, but it may 
be getting a bit creaky, so to speak. Replacing the main filter cap 
can't hurt, and will go a long way toward insuring trouble free 
operation for years to come.


YMMV, of course. No connection with any vendors or manufacturers, just 
satisfied with the results at what I considered a fair price.  Any yes, 
I thought about some of the large computer power supply caps that were 
in my junk box, and I might have tried one if it was close - but after 
a bit of thought, the new unit was a better choice and might in the long 
run prove to be less expensive.  Asurplus unit could have its own 
problems, possibly causing a more catastrophic failure.



- Jim, KL7CC



On 4/16/2013 7:27 AM, Bill wrote:
My RS-35A has been on and in use 24/7 (except during storms and 
vacations) for well over 25 years. I plan on replacing it just 
because this summer - with a new one.


Bill W2BLC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Gary K9GS]

I have a question on adjusting the voltage a bit higher for use with the 
K3. I was thinking of 14.5 V, as others have mentioned, and adjusting 
voltage on receive.


I have an accurate voltmeter.

Should I set the voltage with the voltmeter measuring at the DC input to 
the K3 (at the power pole into the radio) or should I use the internal 
voltmeter in the K3?






On 4/16/2013 9:05 AM, Mike Reublin wrote:

I've used an Astron RS-35M very happily for years. Had to turn it up a tad for 
the K3.

Tip: The voltage adjustment is on the under side of the board..

73, Mike NF4L

On Apr 16, 2013, at 8:03 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:


The K3 in question is a K3/100.  Thanks,

Tom



On Apr 16, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu wrote:


Good morning everyone ,

I think I have found a very nicely maintained and equipped K3 to purchase. Any 
purchase recommendations as to a well constructed and trouble free power supply?

Thanks

Tom
WD5DFE



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--


73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations

[Wes Stewart]

Use your meter.  BTW, I second, third, fourth... the recommendation of the 
RM-35.  Mine has been converted to a smart charger that keeps a 95AH AGM 
battery charged, but before that was used normally without incident.

--- On Tue, 4/16/13, Gary K9GS garyk...@wi.rr.com wrote:

From: Gary K9GS garyk...@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply recommendations
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, April 16, 2013, 9:56 PM

I have a question on adjusting the voltage a bit higher for use with the 
K3. I was thinking of 14.5 V, as others have mentioned, and adjusting 
voltage on receive.

I have an accurate voltmeter.

Should I set the voltage with the voltmeter measuring at the DC input to 
the K3 (at the power pole into the radio) or should I use the internal 
voltmeter in the K3?



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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Randy Cook]

KN5L sez  'My plan is to try a Samlex 1223 or 1235 next. Reports are that the 
Samlex products have a quieter fan.'

Before you do, check on warranty repair policy. I bought a Samlex 1223 for my 
K3 from HRO. Samlex Corp was in BC, Canada, I believe. 

It took a month to get my unit replaced when if failed in the warranty period. 
No quick-ship replacements, no phone support. The replaced unit died shortly 
after the 90 day replacement warranty.  This was a couple of years ago, so 
things may have changed. But, it's something to check into.

My current PowerWerx supply has been working well for a while, and is very 
quiet.

73

Randy Cook - K6CRC
k6cr...@gmail.com




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Bill]

Thank you for the heads up on the warranty problems.

I have decided to go again with a 35 amp analog Astron. Thanks to all 
that responded. Nice to hear what other are using and how it works out.  
Never had a problem running everything from a single battery (been doing 
it for many years) - mostly in RX mode for everything (HF, 2M and 
scanner). Note, however, that I run a Kenwood TS480 during power outs. 
It is far less fussy about low voltage than the K3 (my experience).

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC

-- 
IN GOD I TRUST (but, NOT a single politician)
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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Jim Brown]

On 3/25/2012 10:46 AM, Bill Miller wrote:
 What is recommended for a K-3 power supply? (New owner)

Any decent supply that regulates to about 13VDC will work well provided 
that it is not electrically noisy.  I've used Astron linear supplies, 
and a compact PowerWerx unit rated for 20A. The latter is  switcher, but 
I haven't found any electrical noise.

For many years,  all of the 12V rigs I've owned, and all of the 12V 
accessories on my operating desk, have been powered by a big Costco deep 
cycle battery that is float-charged by an el-cheapo regulated 10A 
switching supply that I bought for $10 at a hamfest about ten years ago. 
That switcher was REAL noisy, but I was able to tame it with a few 
capacitors and chokes on both AC and DC wiring.  10A is plenty to keep 
up with even the most serious contesting.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Adrian]

A solid 15v (adjustable to 15v) supply is best, capable of 30 amp with good
regulation.
Good quality switch mode recommended.

 A cable upgrade into the K3 is recommended too.
The original K3 factory cable has too much volt drop, my replacement is 4 x
the size of original csa.

15v in with cable upgrade to provide ~0.4v volt drop provides;

Significant TX IM3 performance

Elimination of high current warmings and bucks especially on 6m

Instant full power as set on turn on  first TX, no K3 power creep up to
full level after a while issue.

No problem to run a P3 with svga adaptor direct from K3 as is without the
0.6 amp resettable fuse tripping.
No mods required, and P3 turns on with the K3.

Mine runs at 15.2v no-load and 14.8v loaded, and has never performed better.

Adrian ... vk4tux

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2012 3:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

On 3/25/2012 10:46 AM, Bill Miller wrote:
 What is recommended for a K-3 power supply? (New owner)

Any decent supply that regulates to about 13VDC will work well provided that
it is not electrically noisy.  I've used Astron linear supplies, and a
compact PowerWerx unit rated for 20A. The latter is  switcher, but I haven't
found any electrical noise.

For many years,  all of the 12V rigs I've owned, and all of the 12V
accessories on my operating desk, have been powered by a big Costco deep
cycle battery that is float-charged by an el-cheapo regulated 10A switching
supply that I bought for $10 at a hamfest about ten years ago. 
That switcher was REAL noisy, but I was able to tame it with a few
capacitors and chokes on both AC and DC wiring.  10A is plenty to keep up
with even the most serious contesting.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Thanks, Chip -

Looks like just what the doc ordered.

73, Mike NF4L

On 1/1/2012 11:12 PM, Chip Stratton wrote:
 Take a look at the TDK Lambda switch mode power supplies. The LS50-15 that
 I have is pretty quiet, with output voltage adjustable from 13.5v to 16.5v,
 about $20 from Newark Electronics. The LS35-12 is a bit cheaper if you
 really only need 12 volts.
 http://www.newark.com/tdk-lambda/ls5015/power-supply-ac-dc-15v/dp/08N3002

 Chip
 AE5KA

 On Thu, Dec 29, 2011 at 5:19 PM, Miken...@nf4l.com  wrote:

 Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone
 has a
 better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't
 need another
 of those . .

 73, Mike NF4L


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Chip Stratton]

Take a look at the TDK Lambda switch mode power supplies. The LS50-15 that
I have is pretty quiet, with output voltage adjustable from 13.5v to 16.5v,
about $20 from Newark Electronics. The LS35-12 is a bit cheaper if you
really only need 12 volts.
http://www.newark.com/tdk-lambda/ls5015/power-supply-ac-dc-15v/dp/08N3002

Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Dec 29, 2011 at 5:19 PM, Mike n...@nf4l.com wrote:

 Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone
 has a
 better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't
 need another
 of those . .

 73, Mike NF4L


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Understood. The point is that I ONLY want to talk to the RS-232 interface. No 
xmit or 
recv is needed. I'll be in a Mac programming seminar at Big Nerd Ranch. Really.

I have one of those RS supplies in the shack, powering 4 receivers that listen 
for 
railroad traffic and send it to an aggregator which supplies data to a program 
that 
graphically displays train info. So far, noise hasn't been a problem.

Mike

On 12/29/2011 8:56 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 On 12/29/2011 3:19 PM, Mike wrote:
 Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone 
 has a
 better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't 
 need another
 of those
 Current rating isn't the only spec for a power supply -- RF noise is a
 VERY big deal with switching power supplies.

 Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Jim Brown]

On 12/29/2011 4:15 AM, Mike wrote:
 Thanks Jim. I'll check Rose's site.

Rose does custom things. The bags she made for us were custom, but the 
link together was something she had done for W0YK, and the pouches for 
computer and PSU she had done for someone else. .Rose is quite 
responsive via email, and will send you pix of things she's done in the 
past.  Custom work doesn't add enough to the cost to make you change 
your mind.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Thanks Jim. I'll check Rose's site.

73, Mike NF4L

On 12/28/2011 8:40 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 On 12/28/2011 5:30 PM, Mike wrote:
 I'm going to try and find a case that will hold the K3, a small power 
 supply, and my
 flaptop computer.
 Rose Kopp made one for me that fits this description -- in fact, she
 made two, the second for my running buddy, N3ZZ, and they're configured
 to lash together so that they can be carried as a single unit. Very
 nice. We bought them so we could each carry our K3s plus computer on a
 DX trip. My PSU that fits is a PowerWerx switcher rated for 20A.

 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone has 
a 
better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't need 
another 
of those . .

73, Mike NF4L

On 12/28/2011 8:09 AM, Mike wrote:
 I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
 serial
 port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a small 
 packable
 one?

 Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig in 
 checked
 buggage?

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Jim Brown]

On 12/29/2011 3:19 PM, Mike wrote:
 Looks like a Radio Shack 22-507 PS will meet my needs @ 3A. Unless someone 
 has a
 better/cheaper solution. I have 4 20 amp (or better supplies), and don't need 
 another
 of those

Current rating isn't the only spec for a power supply -- RF noise is a 
VERY big deal with switching power supplies.

Jim
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[Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
serial 
port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a small 
packable 
one?

Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig in 
checked 
buggage?

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[WILLIS COOKE]

My K3 with two receivers draws about 2 amps on receive.  It drew a bit over 1 
amp before I installed the second receiver. For transmit at 10 watts I would ad 
about 3 amps to that.  Two layers of bubble wrap would not be enough for MY K3. 
 I use a hard side fiber-glass brief case with enough padding to keep the K3 
from sliding when I carry it in my truck cab.  For checked baggage on an 
airline think pad for throwing 10 feet unless you mark is fragile.  In that 
case, think 20 feet.  Make every effort to avoid possible impact which will 
push the knobs toward the face of the transceiver.  I would not like to test 
how much impact the tuning knobs on the encoders would stand.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 7:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating
 
I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
serial 
port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a small 
packable 
one?

Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig in 
checked 
buggage?

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Wayne Burdick]

A loaded K3 on receive should be under 1.5 A even with all guns  
blazing. If it's 2 amps, try switching options off (starting with the  
sub RX) to see what's up. Another possibility is incorrect resistance  
at the current-sense resistor, so confirm the reading using an  
external ammeter.

73,

Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 28, 2011, at 11:11 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

 My K3 with two receivers draws about 2 amps on receive.  It drew a  
 bit over 1 amp before I installed the second receiver. For transmit  
 at 10 watts I would ad about 3 amps to that.  Two layers of bubble  
 wrap would not be enough for MY K3.  I use a hard side fiber-glass  
 brief case with enough padding to keep the K3 from sliding when I  
 carry it in my truck cab.  For checked baggage on an airline think  
 pad for throwing 10 feet unless you mark is fragile.  In that case,  
 think 20 feet.  Make every effort to avoid possible impact which  
 will push the knobs toward the face of the transceiver.  I would not  
 like to test how much impact the tuning knobs on the encoders would  
 stand.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 7:09 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

 I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk  
 to the serial
 port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for  
 a small packable
 one?

 Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing  
 the rig in checked
 buggage?

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mel Farrer]

A friend had to pack his K3 for overseas shipment and went to a luggage maker 
and had them burn a semi ridged foam insert for his shipping container.  This 
puts equal pressure on all surfaces.  It arrived intact. Anything less is a 
gamble.

Mel

--- On Wed, 12/28/11, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating
To: n...@nf4l.com n...@nf4l.com, Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, December 28, 2011, 11:11 AM

My K3 with two receivers draws about 2 amps on receive.  It drew a bit over 1 
amp before I installed the second receiver. For transmit at 10 watts I would ad 
about 3 amps to that.  Two layers of bubble wrap would not be enough for MY K3. 
 I use a hard side fiber-glass brief case with enough padding to keep the K3 
from sliding when I carry it in my truck cab.  For checked baggage on an 
airline think pad for throwing 10 feet unless you mark is fragile.  In that 
case, think 20 feet.  Make every effort to avoid possible impact which will 
push the knobs toward the face of the transceiver.  I would not like to test 
how much impact the tuning knobs on the encoders would stand.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 7:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating
 
I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
serial 
port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a small 
packable 
one?

Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig in 
checked 
buggage?

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply anomoly

[Ralph Parker]

A loaded K3 on receive should be under 1.5 A even with all guns blazing...

A year or so ago, I decided to ckeck the current drawn by my loaded K3.
To my surprise and confusion, the K3 appeared to be drawing 2.7A with the
power switch OFF!!!
Various opinions expressed by this list notwithstanding, it took me a few
days to realize what was happening - 
The digital meter, a Watt's Up, was being influenced by the HV radiation
from the display on the 756 ProIII, sitting directly above the K3. I turned
off the ProIII, and all returned to the expected 'normal'.
Just another of life's little mysteries.

Ralph, VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Thanks, Mel,
It's that 300 yard trip from checkin to baggage hold that concerns me. I'm 
going to 
try to find something I can carry on.
73, Mike NF4L

On 12/28/2011 2:31 PM, Mel Farrer wrote:
 A friend had to pack his K3 for overseas shipment and went to a luggage maker 
 and 
 had them burn a semi ridged foam insert for his shipping container.  This 
 puts 
 equal pressure on all surfaces.  It arrived intact. Anything less is a gamble.

 Mel

 --- On *Wed, 12/28/11, WILLIS COOKE /wrco...@yahoo.com/* wrote:


 From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating
 To: n...@nf4l.com n...@nf4l.com, Elecraft List 
 Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, December 28, 2011, 11:11 AM

 My K3 with two receivers draws about 2 amps on receive.  It drew a bit 
 over 1
 amp before I installed the second receiver. For transmit at 10 watts I 
 would ad
 about 3 amps to that.  Two layers of bubble wrap would not be enough for 
 MY K3.
  I use a hard side fiber-glass brief case with enough padding to keep the 
 K3
 from sliding when I carry it in my truck cab.  For checked baggage on an
 airline think pad for throwing 10 feet unless you mark is fragile.  In 
 that
 case, think 20 feet.  Make every effort to avoid possible impact which 
 will
 push the knobs toward the face of the transceiver.  I would not like to 
 test
 how much impact the tuning knobs on the encoders would stand.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com /mc/compose?to=n...@nf4l.com
 To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 /mc/compose?to=Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 7:09 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

 I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
 serial
 port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a 
 small
 packable
 one?

 Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig 
 in
 checked
 buggage?

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Mike]

Thanks, Cookie -

Actually, from traveling with photo gear, I think your 20 foot estimate is 
under...

I'm going to try and find a case that will hold the K3, a small power supply, 
and my 
flaptop computer.
On 12/28/2011 2:11 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
 My K3 with two receivers draws about 2 amps on receive.  It drew a bit over 1 
 amp 
 before I installed the second receiver. For transmit at 10 watts I would ad 
 about 3 
 amps to that.  Two layers of bubble wrap would not be enough for MY K3.  I 
 use a 
 hard side fiber-glass brief case with enough padding to keep the K3 from 
 sliding 
 when I carry it in my truck cab.  For checked baggage on an airline think pad 
 for 
 throwing 10 feet unless you mark is fragile.  In that case, think 20 feet.  
 Make 
 every effort to avoid possible impact which will push the knobs toward the 
 face of 
 the transceiver.  I would not like to test how much impact the tuning knobs 
 on the 
 encoders would stand.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 -
 *From:* Mike n...@nf4l.com
 *To:* Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 *Sent:* Wednesday, December 28, 2011 7:09 AM
 *Subject:* [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

 I need to take my K3 to class. I'll need just enough oomph to talk to the 
 serial
 port. What would be the minimum rating for a PS? Any suggestions for a small 
 packable
 one?

 Would a couple of layers of bubble wrap be sufficient for packing the rig in 
 checked
 buggage?

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power supply rating

[Jim Brown]

On 12/28/2011 5:30 PM, Mike wrote:
 I'm going to try and find a case that will hold the K3, a small power supply, 
 and my
 flaptop computer.

Rose Kopp made one for me that fits this description -- in fact, she 
made two, the second for my running buddy, N3ZZ, and they're configured 
to lash together so that they can be carried as a single unit. Very 
nice. We bought them so we could each carry our K3s plus computer on a 
DX trip. My PSU that fits is a PowerWerx switcher rated for 20A.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply/Speaker

[Joel Hallas]

Here's a thought -- why not fill out the K-line with an S-line-like
speaker with room for a power supply, as Collins did. 

Of course, the K3 really wants to have two speakers -- especially if a sub
receiver is installed. So a power supply could go in one (possibly sized for
someone else's, if they really can't deal with certifications) and the 100
W, 2 m amplifier I've been looking for in the other! (hint, hint).

That way they would potentially sell more than if just going for the power
supply market.

Regards, Joel Hallas, W1ZR
Westport, CT


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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply/Speaker

[W2BLC]

Kind of hard to beat an Astron 35 for power and a pair of Behringer MS40 
speakers for audio.  Sure, they don't match - but they work well.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[David F. Reed]

  In response to many questions about what I chose, the answer is I 
bought two different supplies, with different intended uses.

One was the Gamma Research unit, nice and small, but low capacity (okay 
on SSB and CW, too low for digital modes unless you run 10 watts or so 
due to its power duty cycle limitations.  It does fit easily in the 
carry case side pocket of the case Rose Kopp makes.  It is fairly quiet 
RF wise, but I have heard stories of failures from some folks.

The other is the PowerWerks switching unit,  It has much more capacity, 
but is larger; it barely squeezes into the side pocket and once in, is a 
tight enough fit that I am worried that the carrying case could fail due 
to the stress imposed.  It is also fairly RF quiet.

I have decided to use the Gamma Research unit on portable light duty 
trips, and if anticipating Digital modes, bring the PowerWerks unit 
along.  Currently it powers the K3 in the shack.

Thanks a ll for your help and interest.

73 de Dave, W5SV
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[Elecraft] [K3] power supply question

[David F. Reed]

  I am looking for a switching supply that is low RF noise, light 
weight, and hopefully small enough maybe to fit in the side pockets of 
the K3 carrying case that Rose Kopp makes.  I believe something like 
2x4.5x8 or smaller would fit.  And if it had Anderson Power Pole 
connectors, so much the better.

Any ideas or recommendations?

Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power supply question

[Doug Person]

  The new PowerWerx SS-30DV is about as small as practical and has Power 
Pole connectors.  Very quiet as well. Even smaller than the Samlex 1223.

Doug -- K0DXV

On 9/29/2010 5:17 PM, David F. Reed wrote:
I am looking for a switching supply that is low RF noise, light
 weight, and hopefully small enough maybe to fit in the side pockets of
 the K3 carrying case that Rose Kopp makes.  I believe something like
 2x4.5x8 or smaller would fit.  And if it had Anderson Power Pole
 connectors, so much the better.

 Any ideas or recommendations?

 Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power supply question

[William Ravenel]

Dave,

The Powerwerx SS-30  is 5 x 2.5 x 6.75 inches (including the connectors on the 
rear). It has two Powerpole connector pairs on the front and will handle 25 W 
continuous/30 W intermittent. It might be a little big for the side pocket of 
your bag based on the dimensions you provided but I don't know if you will get 
much smaller in a 25A supply unless you go with the Gamma Research HPS-1a that 
provides 5A continuous and 25A at a 25% duty cycle. 

http://www.powerwerx.com/batteries-chargers/powerwerx-30-amp-desktop-switching-power-supply-powerpoles.html
http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

I bought the Powerwerx supply at Dayton this year and used it for 24hrs 
straight at Field Day with my K3 working CW. It does have a fan that you can 
hear, but I've heard a lot worse and didn't notice it with the background noise 
at Field Day. The noise is noticeable in my shack, but I wear headphones most 
of the time and that takes care of it.

73 - Will
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power supply question

[Jim Miller]

I only have the K3/10 but I use the very tiny Gamma HPS-1A

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] power supply question

[David F. Reed]

  Thanks all, I have two good candidates now; I appreciate the help.

73 de Dave, W5SV
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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Edwin Johnson]

Hello Phil,

On Sun, 23 May 2010, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 From: Phil LaMarche plama...@verizon.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

 I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
 is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?

 Phil

For several years I have been using an MFJ-4125 (6x6x2) with several 
different rigs when portable. Fan noise is quite low, especially when you have 
if off the same table as the rig, which is how I operate it. At the time I 
bought it, several years ago, it had one of the best reviews of several 
covered in QST for having no hash nor ripple. There is a more current review 
in QST with other supplies having a few more features, but this unit is light 
weight and very dependable.

...Edwin

Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
return.-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Alan Bloom]

For those bothered by fan noise, you might look into my fan speed
controller article in February QST (p 44).  It's a very simple circuit
that gradually speeds up the fan as the temperature rises.  PC boards
are available from FAR circuits or you can just breadboard it on a scrap
of perf board.

It was designed for the MFJ-4125 but should work with minor modification
with any power supply that uses a 12V fan.

Al N1AL


On Sun, 2010-05-23 at 13:57 -0500, Edwin Johnson wrote:
 Hello Phil,
 
 On Sun, 23 May 2010, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
 
  From: Phil LaMarche plama...@verizon.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply
 
  I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
  is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?
 
  Phil
 
 For several years I have been using an MFJ-4125 (6x6x2) with several 
 different rigs when portable. Fan noise is quite low, especially when you 
 have 
 if off the same table as the rig, which is how I operate it. At the time I 
 bought it, several years ago, it had one of the best reviews of several 
 covered in QST for having no hash nor ripple. There is a more current review 
 in QST with other supplies having a few more features, but this unit is light 
 weight and very dependable.
 
 ...Edwin
 
 Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
 turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
 return.-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson
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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Phil LaMarche]

I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?
 
Phil
 
Philip LaMarche
 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/  
 
727-944-3226
727-937-8834 Fax
727-510-5038 Cell 
 
www.w9dvm.com http://www.w9dvm.com/ 
 
K3 #1605
 
CCA 98-00827
CRA 1701
W9DVM
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Duncan Carter]

I've been using a MFJ 4125P since October, 2009 with no problems.  It 
does have some fan noise that I attenuate by putting it behind my 
computer monitor plus I wear headphones most of the time.

Dunc, W5DC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[David M. Elliott]

Here is what I use.  I don't know of any smaller.

http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

73 de W6BK
On May 22, 2010, at 9:47 AM, Phil LaMarche wrote:

 I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
 is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?
 
 Phil
 
 Philip LaMarche
 
 LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
 p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
 www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/  
 
 727-944-3226
 727-937-8834 Fax
 727-510-5038 Cell 
 
 www.w9dvm.com http://www.w9dvm.com/ 
 
 K3 #1605
 
 CCA 98-00827
 CRA 1701
 W9DVM
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Pete Smith]

After some research I settled on a Samlex SEC 1235M, a 30-ampere metered 
supply for $139, $20 less without meters.  It seems quite solid and, so 
far as I can tell so far, RF quiet.  There's a good thorough review of 
it on the Internet - I've lost the URL but you can Google easily.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com


On 5/22/2010 1:18 PM, David M. Elliott wrote:
 Here is what I use.  I don't know of any smaller.

 http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

 73 de W6BK
 On May 22, 2010, at 9:47 AM, Phil LaMarche wrote:


 I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
 is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?

 Phil

 Philip LaMarche

 LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
 p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
 www.LaMarcheEnterprises.comhttp://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/

 727-944-3226
 727-937-8834 Fax
 727-510-5038 Cell

 www.w9dvm.comhttp://www.w9dvm.com/

 K3 #1605

 CCA 98-00827
 CRA 1701
 W9DVM


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Randy Moore]

I also choose the Samlex 1235M. The guys at Gigaparts told me that,  
unlike other supplies they sell, they had never had a Samlex brought  
back. It has served me well.

73,
Randy, KS4L

On May 22, 2010, at 1:36 PM, Pete Smith n...@contesting.com wrote:

 After some research I settled on a Samlex SEC 1235M, a 30-ampere  
 metered
 supply for $139, $20 less without meters.  It seems quite solid and,  
 so
 far as I can tell so far, RF quiet.  There's a good thorough review of
 it on the Internet - I've lost the URL but you can Google easily.

 73, Pete N4ZR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[István Szabó]

On 5/22/2010 6:47 PM, Phil LaMarche wrote:
 I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
 is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?

 Phil

 Philip LaMarche

 LaMarche Enterprises, Inc
 p...@lamarcheenterprises.com
 www.LaMarcheEnterprises.comhttp://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/

 727-944-3226
 727-937-8834 Fax
 727-510-5038 Cell

 www.w9dvm.comhttp://www.w9dvm.com/

 K3 #1605

 CCA 98-00827
 CRA 1701
 W9DVM


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Alfatronix in UK does make fantastic SPSs. No noise at all, as good as a 
linear supply, small and light. I use the 36W version with K3/10W.

73, István

-- 
István Szabó

Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your 
enthusiasm. - Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply

[Paul]

I have a 35 and 70 amp Astron PS for home use.  I want to buy a supply that
is light and nice for taking it on vacations etc.  Any recommendations?

The Astron SS-30M is light and works FB.

Just take the top cover off and tighten all the PC board mounting screws.

Paul N4LCD 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Bill W4ZV]

Erik you're correct.  The table below shows the FT-1000MP (not D but I bet
very similar) has a nonlinear response in the low range of the meter.  Most
rigs (other than the K3 and Flex 5000) have the identical problem.

http://www.seed-solutions.com/gregordy/Amateur%20Radio/Experimentation/SMeterBlues.htm

73,  Bill 



K7TV wrote:
 
 Jim,
 
 I take it you were commenting on the S-meter. I don't have the rig
 anymore; 
 I sold it to buy the K3. It was generally working very well, and it
 behaved 
 this way from day one (I bought it new around 1992) and I never saw a need 
 to align it.  The buyer has not complained. My statement was based on 
 starting at S-9 and applying attenuation 6 dB at a time. My memory may be 
 slightly off, but generally I saw the same behavior in the 1000D as in my 
 old IC-735. The meters would be quite good above S-7. Starting at S-7 and 
 attenuating another 6 dB they would indicate about S-5, and after another
 6 
 dB the needle would be at 0. I remember memorizing this and using it to
 give 
 reports. Because it seemed so consistent between the two rigs, I formed
 the 
 opinion that it was the consensus of the manufacturers, and again saw no 
 reason to question the 1000D's alignment. Of course, with preamplification 
 on, the meter would start moving at a lower level, maybe S3. Over the
 years 
 I have seen comments in articles that have seemed to avoid generalizations 
 and instead said things like S-meter calibrations vary a lot from
 receiver 
 to receiver. I wouldn't be surprised if Yaesu had changed the AGC 
 parameters sometime during the long production run.
 
 73,
 Erik K7TV
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Jan Erik Holm sm2...@telia.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 8:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply
 
 
 Sorry but this is totally wrong. In this case your FT-1000D
 was either broken or not aligned properly.
 If you still have it align it per the service manual and
 you will see something totally different.

 73 Jim SM2EKM
 --
 Erik N Basilier wrote:
 Merv,

 My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to
 move
 until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe 
 you
 when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise, and 
 the
 one in the FT-1000D doesn't.

 73,
 Erik K7TV



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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-N1MM-for-Field-Day-tp2864853p2868603.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Bill W4ZV]

Here's the FT-1000 meter...8 dB total difference from S5 to S1:

http://www.n6rk.com/FT1000_S_meter.doc

73,  Bill



Bill W4ZV wrote:
 
 Erik you're correct.  The table below shows the FT-1000MP (not D but I
 bet very similar) has a nonlinear response in the low range of the meter. 
 Most rigs (other than the K3 and Flex 5000) have the identical problem.
 
 http://www.seed-solutions.com/gregordy/Amateur%20Radio/Experimentation/SMeterBlues.htm
 
 73,  Bill 
 
 
 
 K7TV wrote:
 
 Jim,
 
 I take it you were commenting on the S-meter. I don't have the rig
 anymore; 
 I sold it to buy the K3. It was generally working very well, and it
 behaved 
 this way from day one (I bought it new around 1992) and I never saw a
 need 
 to align it.  The buyer has not complained. My statement was based on 
 starting at S-9 and applying attenuation 6 dB at a time. My memory may be 
 slightly off, but generally I saw the same behavior in the 1000D as in my 
 old IC-735. The meters would be quite good above S-7. Starting at S-7 and 
 attenuating another 6 dB they would indicate about S-5, and after another
 6 
 dB the needle would be at 0. I remember memorizing this and using it to
 give 
 reports. Because it seemed so consistent between the two rigs, I formed
 the 
 opinion that it was the consensus of the manufacturers, and again saw no 
 reason to question the 1000D's alignment. Of course, with
 preamplification 
 on, the meter would start moving at a lower level, maybe S3. Over the
 years 
 I have seen comments in articles that have seemed to avoid
 generalizations 
 and instead said things like S-meter calibrations vary a lot from
 receiver 
 to receiver. I wouldn't be surprised if Yaesu had changed the AGC 
 parameters sometime during the long production run.
 
 73,
 Erik K7TV
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Jan Erik Holm sm2...@telia.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 8:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply
 
 
 Sorry but this is totally wrong. In this case your FT-1000D
 was either broken or not aligned properly.
 If you still have it align it per the service manual and
 you will see something totally different.

 73 Jim SM2EKM
 --
 Erik N Basilier wrote:
 Merv,

 My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to
 move
 until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe 
 you
 when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise,
 and 
 the
 one in the FT-1000D doesn't.

 73,
 Erik K7TV



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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-N1MM-for-Field-Day-tp2864853p2869271.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Jan Erik Holm]

And this is not the point!!!
Read what K7TV wrote first and then what I
commented on.
Then K7TV started to rant about things beside
the point.

/ SM2EKM
--
Bill W4ZV wrote:
 Here's the FT-1000 meter...8 dB total difference from S5 to S1:
 
 http://www.n6rk.com/FT1000_S_meter.doc
 
 73,  Bill
 
 
 
 Bill W4ZV wrote:
 Erik you're correct.  The table below shows the FT-1000MP (not D but I
 bet very similar) has a nonlinear response in the low range of the meter. 
 Most rigs (other than the K3 and Flex 5000) have the identical problem.

 http://www.seed-solutions.com/gregordy/Amateur%20Radio/Experimentation/SMeterBlues.htm

 73,  Bill 



 K7TV wrote:
 Jim,

 I take it you were commenting on the S-meter. I don't have the rig
 anymore; 
 I sold it to buy the K3. It was generally working very well, and it
 behaved 
 this way from day one (I bought it new around 1992) and I never saw a
 need 
 to align it.  The buyer has not complained. My statement was based on 
 starting at S-9 and applying attenuation 6 dB at a time. My memory may be 
 slightly off, but generally I saw the same behavior in the 1000D as in my 
 old IC-735. The meters would be quite good above S-7. Starting at S-7 and 
 attenuating another 6 dB they would indicate about S-5, and after another
 6 
 dB the needle would be at 0. I remember memorizing this and using it to
 give 
 reports. Because it seemed so consistent between the two rigs, I formed
 the 
 opinion that it was the consensus of the manufacturers, and again saw no 
 reason to question the 1000D's alignment. Of course, with
 preamplification 
 on, the meter would start moving at a lower level, maybe S3. Over the
 years 
 I have seen comments in articles that have seemed to avoid
 generalizations 
 and instead said things like S-meter calibrations vary a lot from
 receiver 
 to receiver. I wouldn't be surprised if Yaesu had changed the AGC 
 parameters sometime during the long production run.

 73,
 Erik K7TV

 - Original Message - 
 From: Jan Erik Holm sm2...@telia.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 8:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply


 Sorry but this is totally wrong. In this case your FT-1000D
 was either broken or not aligned properly.
 If you still have it align it per the service manual and
 you will see something totally different.

 73 Jim SM2EKM
 --
 Erik N Basilier wrote:
 Merv,

 My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to
 move
 until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe 
 you
 when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise,
 and 
 the
 one in the FT-1000D doesn't.

 73,
 Erik K7TV


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[Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Merv Schweigert]

The past couple of days I have noticed the noise level on the K3 has
gone up a couple of S units and on 20 meters and there were tunable
hash signals.I started to try and find the problem and using another
receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise. 
I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed the noise
before.   I drug out an old backup supply MFJ-4245 and behold it
also has a lot of tunable hash signals on 20 meters.  
Wonder what supplies are being used with the K3?  Or if anyone has
had luck on cleaning up the switcher supplies like the Astron? 
I suspect it could be due to age and caps going bad,  the supply has
been in use for 8 years. 
There are no locally available parts so before I try and recap and order
ferrites etc like to know what works if anything. 
Thanks  Merv KH7C
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[WILLIS COOKE]

I am using a Jetstream JTPS28M and I am  happy.  I have a few birdies, but I am 
not sure which come from the switching supply and which come from the computer. 
 They don't give me enough trouble that I have investigated. The JTPS28M is 
only $99.95 so I am not sure it is worth trouble shooting and changing caps.  
The rule of thumb for electrolytic capacitors that that I learned year ago was 
to change them after 7 years.  I suspect that modern caps are better than the 
ones we had in 1960, but that still may be your problem.  There are plenty of 
places to buy caps on the internet and I don't know any place that it is more 
convenient to buy local.  I live in the Houston area and still need to buy such 
things by internet.  Fry's is only 5 miles away but if they have the part in 
stock they will have one when I need four.  EPO will have four that are old 
stock or surplus that may not be any better than the one removed.  So I buy 
from Allied or one of the other
 on line vendors, wait a week and save the gas.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com wrote:

 From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply
 To: 
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 12:19 PM
 The past couple of days I have noticed the noise level on
 the K3 has
 gone up a couple of S units and on 20 meters and there were
 tunable
 hash signals.I started to try and find the problem and
 using another
 receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of
 noise. 
 I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed
 the noise
 before.   I drug out an old backup supply MFJ-4245 and
 behold it
 also has a lot of tunable hash signals on 20 meters.  
 Wonder what supplies are being used with the K3?  Or if
 anyone has
 had luck on cleaning up the switcher supplies like the
 Astron? 
 I suspect it could be due to age and caps going bad,  the
 supply has
 been in use for 8 years. 
 There are no locally available parts so before I try and
 recap and order
 ferrites etc like to know what works if anything. 
 Thanks  Merv KH7C
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Milt, N5IA]

- Original Message - 
From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com

 I started to try and find the problem and using another
 receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise.
 I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed the noise
 before.

Merv,

For weight considerations, the SS-30 supplies were selected for the Ducie 
Island expedition this past year.

This problem you mention, or a very similar one, was evident during the 
VP6DX expedition from the time that Robin started making tests while 
underway on the Braveheart from ZL to FO.

We added extra filtering internally.

We grounded extensively.

We cleaned the case cover screw holes both on the main chassis and on the 
cover to improve bonding to the cover.  We were never able to make them 
clean.  All supplies performed in the exact same manner.

We were float charging small batteries to keep the K-3s and the ancillary 
equipment running while the gensets were being refueled and having oil 
changed.  The extra capacitance of the battery helped with the DC filtering 
but most of the stuff was of a frequency that the battery and other 
filtering could not remove.  And we couldn't keep it inside the case.

The fact remains that the harmonics of the switcher were a very real problem 
for us, especially on the lower frequency bands.  The most annoying 
situation was the harmonic signal moving around, slowly up and down the band 
such that we could not avoid it at times when we were in the middle of a 
tough one on 160 and were trying to dig it out of the noise floor.  We had 
to wait until the birdie slowly slithered on by or many times I just reached 
and turned the SS-30 off during a difficult contact.

73 de Milt, N5IA

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Paul Christensen]

 Wonder what supplies are being used with the K3?

Merv,

For the shack, I gave up on switch-mode power supplies since I could not 
find one that produced a low noise floor on all bands.  For years, I was 
unknowingly putting up with a high-level noise floor until I purchased the 
SDR-IQ and began seeing broad bumps in the viewed spectra response.  The 
bumps were attributed to switch mode power supplies, switch-mode wall 
supplies, and some USB adapters.  By changing switch-mode back to old linear 
technology and a combination of changing the USB adapters as well as using 
multi-wound #31 ferrite cores (wound K9YC style) on both ends of the USB 
cables, I finally have a flat noise floor on all bands.

I am sure there are quiet switch-mode supplies out there.  But with all the 
other noise sources I have to contend with, I don't want to be asking myself 
if some new grunge I'm hearing in the future is attributed to my power 
supply.

My guess is that many of us are living with high noise floors from 
switch-mode products and do not realize it -- until a PAN adapter is added 
and the noise floor can be seen.  Spotting sharp switch-mode and LAN-type 
grunge is easy without a PAN adapter, but it's the very broad noise (e.g., 
gentle rise and fall over 100 kHz) that's deceptive when one tunes the band.

The shack supply here is now a surplus linear Agilent 6652A.  These sell new 
in the $4K range but are only a few hundred $$ if you catch the right 
on-line sales for surplus product.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Merv, if you're suddenly getting hash from two formerly-clean switchers, I'd
suspect something else, such as a bad mains ground on the circuit feeding
the supplies or a change in the rig's grounding system that is now
introducing some sort of a ground loop return. 

Have you made any changes to your antenna situation lately? If feeding with
coax, are the shields intact and properly terminated at the rig? 

After over 50 years of fixing electronics, I've yet to find two similar
failures in separate gear that were coincident, no matter how often I've
tried to convince myself I was finally experiencing the first time. It's
always something in common to both. 

As for power supplies in general, my linear Astron 20 handles my K3 FB. (I
don't try to crowd out an extra 1/10 of an S-unit above 100 watts by running
the power control wide open keeping the demand comfortably within the
Astron's 20 amp ICAS ratings on CW/SSB. If I want to run a 100% duty cycle
mode such as RTTY, I back down the power.) 

The linear supplies may be heavy, but I don't take mine back-packing (the
extension cord would weigh more than the supply if I did ;-) So it sits
under the operating desk where I don't care how heavy it might be.

Ron AC7AC

  



-Original Message-
The past couple of days I have noticed the noise level on the K3 has
gone up a couple of S units and on 20 meters and there were tunable
hash signals.I started to try and find the problem and using another
receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise. 
I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed the noise
before.   I drug out an old backup supply MFJ-4245 and behold it
also has a lot of tunable hash signals on 20 meters.  
Wonder what supplies are being used with the K3?  Or if anyone has
had luck on cleaning up the switcher supplies like the Astron? 
I suspect it could be due to age and caps going bad,  the supply has
been in use for 8 years. 
There are no locally available parts so before I try and recap and order
ferrites etc like to know what works if anything. 
Thanks  Merv KH7C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[John W2XS]

 I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise. 

For the past year, I have used an Astron RS-35A (linear = heavy) with
excellent electrical results.  Just yesterday, I removed the power
transformer mounting screws and added rubber equipment feet as isolators and
remounted the transformer. This eliminated the annoying audible (not
electrical) hum that I had been putting up with all this time.

73,

John W2XS


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-N1MM-for-Field-Day-tp2864853p2865329.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Merv Schweigert]

Milt, N5IA wrote:

 - Original Message - From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com

 I started to try and find the problem and using another
 receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise.
 I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed the noise
 before.

 Merv,

 For weight considerations, the SS-30 supplies were selected for the 
 Ducie Island expedition this past year.

 This problem you mention, or a very similar one, was evident during 
 the VP6DX expedition from the time that Robin started making tests 
 while underway on the Braveheart from ZL to FO.

 We added extra filtering internally.

 We grounded extensively.

 We cleaned the case cover screw holes both on the main chassis and on 
 the cover to improve bonding to the cover.  We were never able to make 
 them clean.  All supplies performed in the exact same manner.

 We were float charging small batteries to keep the K-3s and the 
 ancillary equipment running while the gensets were being refueled and 
 having oil changed.  The extra capacitance of the battery helped with 
 the DC filtering but most of the stuff was of a frequency that the 
 battery and other filtering could not remove.  And we couldn't keep it 
 inside the case.

 The fact remains that the harmonics of the switcher were a very real 
 problem for us, especially on the lower frequency bands.  The most 
 annoying situation was the harmonic signal moving around, slowly up 
 and down the band such that we could not avoid it at times when we 
 were in the middle of a tough one on 160 and were trying to dig it out 
 of the noise floor.  We had to wait until the birdie slowly slithered 
 on by or many times I just reached and turned the SS-30 off during a 
 difficult contact.

 73 de Milt, N5IA
The noise floor with the switchers has always been a problem,  but the 
increase is what was
bugging me, and happy to have it confirmed  that they are somewhat 
incurable,  thought it was just me,
have done about all that Milt describes and still has noise. 
The past couple days its has just increased by 2 DB on the meter, in 
other words on 20 meters
the K3 is hovering around s4 to s5 noise floor,  compared to turning off 
the switchers and K3
and listening on a Ft-1000D it has a noise floor of S0.  
I guess its back to an old transformer supply,  had been trying to stay 
away from that due to the
shipping weight etc.  Thanks for all the input.  
73 Merv KH7C



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Erik N Basilier]

Merv,

My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to move 
until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe you 
when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise, and the 
one in the FT-1000D doesn't.

73,
Erik K7TV

- Original Message - 
From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com
To: Milt, N5IA n...@zia-connection.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 4:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply


 Milt, N5IA wrote:

 - Original Message - From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com

 I started to try and find the problem and using another
 receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise.
 I have used this supply for some time and have not noticed the noise
 before.

 Merv,

 For weight considerations, the SS-30 supplies were selected for the
 Ducie Island expedition this past year.

 This problem you mention, or a very similar one, was evident during
 the VP6DX expedition from the time that Robin started making tests
 while underway on the Braveheart from ZL to FO.

 We added extra filtering internally.

 We grounded extensively.

 We cleaned the case cover screw holes both on the main chassis and on
 the cover to improve bonding to the cover.  We were never able to make
 them clean.  All supplies performed in the exact same manner.

 We were float charging small batteries to keep the K-3s and the
 ancillary equipment running while the gensets were being refueled and
 having oil changed.  The extra capacitance of the battery helped with
 the DC filtering but most of the stuff was of a frequency that the
 battery and other filtering could not remove.  And we couldn't keep it
 inside the case.

 The fact remains that the harmonics of the switcher were a very real
 problem for us, especially on the lower frequency bands.  The most
 annoying situation was the harmonic signal moving around, slowly up
 and down the band such that we could not avoid it at times when we
 were in the middle of a tough one on 160 and were trying to dig it out
 of the noise floor.  We had to wait until the birdie slowly slithered
 on by or many times I just reached and turned the SS-30 off during a
 difficult contact.

 73 de Milt, N5IA
 The noise floor with the switchers has always been a problem,  but the
 increase is what was
 bugging me, and happy to have it confirmed  that they are somewhat
 incurable,  thought it was just me,
 have done about all that Milt describes and still has noise.
 The past couple days its has just increased by 2 DB on the meter, in
 other words on 20 meters
 the K3 is hovering around s4 to s5 noise floor,  compared to turning off
 the switchers and K3
 and listening on a Ft-1000D it has a noise floor of S0.
 I guess its back to an old transformer supply,  had been trying to stay
 away from that due to the
 shipping weight etc.  Thanks for all the input.
 73 Merv KH7C



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Paul]

The past couple of days I have noticed the noise level on the K3 has
gone up a couple of S units and on 20 meters and there were tunable
hash signals.I started to try and find the problem and using another
receiver I find the Astron SS-30 is generating all sorts of noise.

Have you checked the PC Board mounting/grounding screws?

On two SS-30's here, the PC Board mounting screws were loose, new, 
right out of the box. And they all had a dab of paint on them.  Go figure.

Paul N4LCD 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Jan Erik Holm]

Sorry but this is totally wrong. In this case your FT-1000D
was either broken or not aligned properly.
If you still have it align it per the service manual and
you will see something totally different.

73 Jim SM2EKM
--
Erik N Basilier wrote:
 Merv,
 
 My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to move 
 until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe you 
 when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise, and the 
 one in the FT-1000D doesn't.
 
 73,
 Erik K7TV
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply

[Erik N Basilier]

Jim,

I take it you were commenting on the S-meter. I don't have the rig anymore; 
I sold it to buy the K3. It was generally working very well, and it behaved 
this way from day one (I bought it new around 1992) and I never saw a need 
to align it.  The buyer has not complained. My statement was based on 
starting at S-9 and applying attenuation 6 dB at a time. My memory may be 
slightly off, but generally I saw the same behavior in the 1000D as in my 
old IC-735. The meters would be quite good above S-7. Starting at S-7 and 
attenuating another 6 dB they would indicate about S-5, and after another 6 
dB the needle would be at 0. I remember memorizing this and using it to give 
reports. Because it seemed so consistent between the two rigs, I formed the 
opinion that it was the consensus of the manufacturers, and again saw no 
reason to question the 1000D's alignment. Of course, with preamplification 
on, the meter would start moving at a lower level, maybe S3. Over the years 
I have seen comments in articles that have seemed to avoid generalizations 
and instead said things like S-meter calibrations vary a lot from receiver 
to receiver. I wouldn't be surprised if Yaesu had changed the AGC 
parameters sometime during the long production run.

73,
Erik K7TV

- Original Message - 
From: Jan Erik Holm sm2...@telia.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power supply


 Sorry but this is totally wrong. In this case your FT-1000D
 was either broken or not aligned properly.
 If you still have it align it per the service manual and
 you will see something totally different.

 73 Jim SM2EKM
 --
 Erik N Basilier wrote:
 Merv,

 My experience with the FT-1000D was that the S-meter didn't start to move
 until the actual signal strength reached S-5 or so. But yes, I believe 
 you
 when you say that the switching power supply creates a lot of noise, and 
 the
 one in the FT-1000D doesn't.

 73,
 Erik K7TV



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply

[Dave G4AON]

Gary

I was sold on the idea of switched mode power supplies and mainly used
one of the later model Samlex 1223 supplies with the factory fitted
extra EMC components. You've guessed, it was fine for a while then I
noticed a wandering burble on 80m and it was radiated from the PSU.
Maybe the components deteriorated or something changed on the antenna,
in any event it's no longer in the shack! I've gone back to a good old
linear supply, it's a Racal branded one from Newmar Electronics in
Newport Beach, CA. I bought it as new old stock (NOS) here in the UK
(Racal were a UK military/commercial radio manufacturer), it's model
115-12-35 CD and rated for 13.8 V at 35 Amp continuous in temps to 85C
ambient, it includes a crowbar, is designed with transmitters in mind
and also has over temp shut down. A real power supply! I use it to
supply both my K3 and an Icom IC910HX for VHF/UHF.

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80

I've been re-considering my power supply. I'm using a Heathkit PS
which is a 20 amp linear supply. I just looked inside it and it's
definitely showing the effects of age. It hasn't been used in quite a
long time as I've used a TenTec supply with my Corsair  Omni since
day one.
SNIP
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