Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C58 & C59
Hi Russ, Those light blue caps should be marked "u1J100" and if they are, those are 0.1uf (104) caps. They would be for C58 and C59. I use a lighted, magnifying lamp here. That is the only way I can read those things ;-) 73, Dave, W8FGU On 1/31/2020 11:01:45 AM, "kg7vq01" wrote: During the inventory of the kit, I found no 104 capacitors but found two small plastic cubes with lead and vary faint markinig i can't make out. Logic says that, as everyhing else is identified, these must be C58 & 59. However as logic is rarely relevent these days I thought I should ask. Oh, and they are blue. Thanks for any helpRussKG7VQ Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to d...@w8fgu.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 C58 & C59
During the inventory of the kit, I found no 104 capacitors but found two small plastic cubes with lead and vary faint markinig i can't make out. Logic says that, as everyhing else is identified, these must be C58 & 59. However as logic is rarely relevent these days I thought I should ask. Oh, and they are blue. Thanks for any helpRussKG7VQ Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Firmware upgrade?
Thanks, Don. The module is working, i hear FT-8 (sigh). Now to the alignment of the module. Am 03.11.18 um 15:42 schrieb Don Wilhelm: Martin, No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was already correct. -- 73, Martin Ohne CW ist es nur CB... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Firmware upgrade?
Martin, No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was already correct. On the base K2, do check the voltage at the left end of R30 to make sure it is between 1.0 volts and 7.0 volts (1.5 to 6.5 volts is better) at the low frequency and high frequency ends of your preferred frequencies on 60 meters. You may have to adjust L30. If you do, then you should check the R30 voltages at the end points of all other bands to make sure they are all within range. That is mentioned in the K60XV instructions. You may also have to re-peak the 40 meter bandpass inductors and then peak the trimmer capacitors on the 60 meter board. Other than those alignments, no other ones are necessary. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/3/2018 10:20 AM, Martin wrote: Elecrafters, i'm in the process of installing the 60m module. To make it work, i also need to upgrade the KAT2 firmware from 1.06 to 1.07. I just plugged the chip in and now wonder if i need to perform an alignment for the new firmware to work properly. Anyone? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 Firmware upgrade?
Elecrafters, i'm in the process of installing the 60m module. To make it work, i also need to upgrade the KAT2 firmware from 1.06 to 1.07. I just plugged the chip in and now wonder if i need to perform an alignment for the new firmware to work properly. Anyone? -- 73, Martin Ohne CW ist es nur CB... __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Hi Cur warning
Don, Thanks for the info. --mark/ae0mm ‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐ On Saturday, September 29, 2018 12:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > That is not abnormal. > > It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different > than for other bands, and yours is not out of line. Yes, the KAT2 draws > a bit more current than without it - that is true for any option. > > Move the CAL CUR setting up to 3.50 Amps. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 9/29/2018 12:19 PM, AE0MM wrote: > > > Don, > > I've done the bridge null adjustment several times. The red c55 trimmer > > capacitor is very touchy. Using a ceramic screwdriver, I'm able to get the > > reading in the 7 to 10 range, but after a few moments, or hours, it will > > read 30 and sometimes up to 90 at 7100KHz into a dummy load on 5w requested > > power. > > With requested power set to 10w, voltage drops from 13.5 to 12.9 when > > pressing tune. (atu set to calp) > > It seems the biggest current change in current (before KAT2 vs after KAT2) > > is on 30m, 12m, and 10m. Is it normal for current to increase after > > installing KAT2? Are these numbers in harmony with what you'd expect? I > > don't have a watt meter, so I'm relying on the RF probe. > > Here are the before and after measurements: > > Band Power Current > > 80 9.7 2.2 > > 40 9.2 2.0 > > 30 9.4 2.1 > > 20 9.7 2.1 > > 17 11 2.1 > > 15 9.3 2.0 > > 12 9.4 2.2 > > 10 9.6 2.3 > > 80 11.2 2.7 > > 40 10.8 2.3 > > 30 10.0 2.9 > > 20 10.8 2.5 > > 17 10.5 2.4 > > 15 10.4 2.5 > > 12 8.2 2.5 > > 10 8.5 2.9 > > What I'm experiencing, is it normal and expected? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Hi Cur warning
Mark, That is not abnormal. It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different than for other bands, and yours is not out of line. Yes, the KAT2 draws a bit more current than without it - that is true for any option. Move the CAL CUR setting up to 3.50 Amps. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/29/2018 12:19 PM, AE0MM wrote: Don, I've done the bridge null adjustment several times. The red c55 trimmer capacitor is very touchy. Using a ceramic screwdriver, I'm able to get the reading in the 7 to 10 range, but after a few moments, or hours, it will read 30 and sometimes up to 90 at 7100KHz into a dummy load on 5w requested power. With requested power set to 10w, voltage drops from 13.5 to 12.9 when pressing tune. (atu set to calp) It seems the biggest current change in current (before KAT2 vs after KAT2) is on 30m, 12m, and 10m. Is it normal for current to increase after installing KAT2? Are these numbers in harmony with what you'd expect? I don't have a watt meter, so I'm relying on the RF probe. Here are the before and after measurements: BandPower Current 80 9.7 2.2 40 9.2 2.0 30 9.4 2.1 20 9.7 2.1 17 11 2.1 15 9.3 2.0 12 9.4 2.2 10 9.6 2.3 80 11.22.7 40 10.82.3 30 10.02.9 20 10.82.5 17 10.52.4 15 10.42.5 12 8.2 2.5 10 8.5 2.9 What I'm experiencing, is it normal and expected? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Hi Cur warning
Don, I've done the bridge null adjustment several times. The red c55 trimmer capacitor is very touchy. Using a ceramic screwdriver, I'm able to get the reading in the 7 to 10 range, but after a few moments, or hours, it will read 30 and sometimes up to 90 at 7100KHz into a dummy load on 5w requested power. With requested power set to 10w, voltage drops from 13.5 to 12.9 when pressing tune. (atu set to calp) It seems the biggest current change in current (before KAT2 vs after KAT2) is on 30m, 12m, and 10m. Is it normal for current to increase after installing KAT2? Are these numbers in harmony with what you'd expect? I don't have a watt meter, so I'm relying on the RF probe. Here are the before and after measurements: BandPower Current 80 9.7 2.2 40 9.2 2.0 30 9.4 2.1 20 9.7 2.1 17 11 2.1 15 9.3 2.0 12 9.4 2.2 10 9.6 2.3 80 11.22.7 40 10.82.3 30 10.02.9 20 10.82.5 17 10.52.4 15 10.42.5 12 8.2 2.5 10 8.5 2.9 What I'm experiencing, is it normal and expected? Thanks, --mark/ae0mm ‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐ On Tuesday, September 25, 2018 5:58 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mark, > > First, set the CAL CUR in the K2 menu to 3.50 - and also make certain > the power supply voltage as displayed on the K2 display is not dropping > significantly during a TUNE. If it drops more than 1 volt suspect your > power supply or the power cable. A low supply voltage can cause the K2 > to report HI Cur - the K2 tries to maintain the power requested, and a > lower voltage requires greater current. > > Note that at least 2 watts is required to calibrate the KAT2 wattmeter > and to do a TUNE. > > The first step in bringing up the KAT2 is to balance (null) the > wattmeter. Adjust the trimmer capacitor for the lowest reading in ATU > menu CALn. > > After that, connect a good 50 ohm dummy load and do the CALP setting. > Use an external wattmeter that you trust, or the measurement of the RF > voltage with the RF Probe will work, but requires some calculation in > between adjustments. The external wattmeter is quicker. > > With the ATU menu set for CALP, the relays should be set to open all > paths to the capacitors and to short out the inductors, so I doubt that > those relay measurements are of value - unless one of the relays has an > unsoldered pin 1 or pin 10 which will not allow it to switch. > Check the schematic to see which relay pins should be closed and which > should be open. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 9/25/2018 5:35 PM, AE0MM via Elecraft wrote: > > > Just installed the KAT2 in a newly assembled K2. At power levels greater > > than 8.0 watts, the K2 was displaying the high current warning. The KAT2 > > power calibration was calibrated by measuring voltage with the K2's RF > > probe at the feed point to a dummy load. > > I removed the KAT2 and remeasured the power across all bands. Again, power > > was calculated based on DC voltage from RF probe at dummy load feed point. > > The impedance of the feedline and dummy load were retested. (49 to 51 ohms > > over the amateur radio bands, measured with a sark-110 calibrated using a > > set of reference loads) > > Here are the results: > > Band Power At Load K2 Current > > 80 9.7 2.2 > > 40 9.2 2.0 > > 30 9.4 2.1 > > 20 9.7 2.1 > > 17 11 2.1 > > 15 9.3 2.0 > > 12 9.4 2.2 > > 10 9.6 2.3 > > After remeasuring power, the KAT2 was reinstalled, and its power meter > > verified correct at 5 watts. With the KAT2 reinstalled, rechecked K2 > > current draw at 10 watts on all bands. For each band it measured 20% to 30% > > higher than without the KAT2. > > With the power level on the K2 set to one watt and the ATU set to CALP, I > > used the RF probe to measure a few points on the KAT2 control board, and > > the input from the RF board. At the one watt level, there is approximately > > 1v drop between K17 pins 2/9 and 4/7. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Hi Cur warning
Mark, First, set the CAL CUR in the K2 menu to 3.50 - and also make certain the power supply voltage as displayed on the K2 display is not dropping significantly during a TUNE. If it drops more than 1 volt suspect your power supply or the power cable. A low supply voltage can cause the K2 to report HI Cur - the K2 tries to maintain the power requested, and a lower voltage requires greater current. Note that at least 2 watts is required to calibrate the KAT2 wattmeter and to do a TUNE. The first step in bringing up the KAT2 is to balance (null) the wattmeter. Adjust the trimmer capacitor for the lowest reading in ATU menu CALn. After that, connect a good 50 ohm dummy load and do the CALP setting. Use an external wattmeter that you trust, or the measurement of the RF voltage with the RF Probe will work, but requires some calculation in between adjustments. The external wattmeter is quicker. With the ATU menu set for CALP, the relays should be set to open all paths to the capacitors and to short out the inductors, so I doubt that those relay measurements are of value - unless one of the relays has an unsoldered pin 1 or pin 10 which will not allow it to switch. Check the schematic to see which relay pins should be closed and which should be open. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/25/2018 5:35 PM, AE0MM via Elecraft wrote: Just installed the KAT2 in a newly assembled K2. At power levels greater than 8.0 watts, the K2 was displaying the high current warning. The KAT2 power calibration was calibrated by measuring voltage with the K2's RF probe at the feed point to a dummy load. I removed the KAT2 and remeasured the power across all bands. Again, power was calculated based on DC voltage from RF probe at dummy load feed point. The impedance of the feedline and dummy load were retested. (49 to 51 ohms over the amateur radio bands, measured with a sark-110 calibrated using a set of reference loads) Here are the results: BandPower At Load K2 Current 80 9.7 2.2 40 9.2 2.0 30 9.4 2.1 20 9.7 2.1 17 11 2.1 15 9.3 2.0 12 9.4 2.2 10 9.6 2.3 After remeasuring power, the KAT2 was reinstalled, and its power meter verified correct at 5 watts. With the KAT2 reinstalled, rechecked K2 current draw at 10 watts on all bands. For each band it measured 20% to 30% higher than without the KAT2. With the power level on the K2 set to one watt and the ATU set to CALP, I used the RF probe to measure a few points on the KAT2 control board, and the input from the RF board. At the one watt level, there is approximately 1v drop between K17 pins 2/9 and 4/7. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 Hi Cur warning
Just installed the KAT2 in a newly assembled K2. At power levels greater than 8.0 watts, the K2 was displaying the high current warning. The KAT2 power calibration was calibrated by measuring voltage with the K2's RF probe at the feed point to a dummy load. I removed the KAT2 and remeasured the power across all bands. Again, power was calculated based on DC voltage from RF probe at dummy load feed point. The impedance of the feedline and dummy load were retested. (49 to 51 ohms over the amateur radio bands, measured with a sark-110 calibrated using a set of reference loads) Here are the results: BandPower At Load K2 Current 80 9.7 2.2 40 9.2 2.0 30 9.4 2.1 20 9.7 2.1 17 11 2.1 15 9.3 2.0 12 9.4 2.2 10 9.6 2.3 After remeasuring power, the KAT2 was reinstalled, and its power meter verified correct at 5 watts. With the KAT2 reinstalled, rechecked K2 current draw at 10 watts on all bands. For each band it measured 20% to 30% higher than without the KAT2. With the power level on the K2 set to one watt and the ATU set to CALP, I used the RF probe to measure a few points on the KAT2 control board, and the input from the RF board. At the one watt level, there is approximately 1v drop between K17 pins 2/9 and 4/7. K17 PinsVolts 2/9 9.9 3/8 9.9 4/7 8.6 K18 PinsVolts 3/8 8.6 Is this expected behavior, or is something amiss with this KAT2? Thanks, --mark/ae0mm __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 unresponsive
Bob, The '--' in the ATU menu means that the KAT2 firmware is not being seen by the K2 MCU. Take a good look at the point where the control cable is attached to the KAT2 control board - look for broken wires. Do the same for the header that plugs to K2 Control Board P4. Make certain the header which plugs into K2 Control Board P4 is installed correctly - the green wire should be at the top. 73, Don W3FPR tuner was working fine yesterday and earlier today, and then after one press of the "Tune" button on the front panel it is no longer functional. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 unresponsive
After doing a re-alignment of my K2 ser. #3218 yesterday I started to play on the air and suddenly my KAT2 would no longer tune to my buddipole antenna. In fact, the ATU menu is now inaccessible. When entering the menu system and selecting the ATU submenu, the only display is "--" while rotating the VFO or using Band+/Band- to change menu options. I removed the KAT2 assembly and looked at all components but did not see anything obviously smoked, so I'm at a loss of what might be wrong. The tuner was working fine yesterday and earlier today, and then after one press of the "Tune" button on the front panel it is no longer functional. Help appreciated! Best regards, Bob Solimeno KC2JAV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Tuner issue (Ant 1 / Ant 2 switching)
Tim, When ANT2 is selected, do you hear signals if the feedline is connected to ANT1? Are they at the same level as when ANT1 is selected? If the answer is YES to both questions, then the most likely thing is that relay K18 is not switching. If the signals are reduced when ANT2 is selected, then at least K18 is disconnecting ANT1, but ANT2 is not connected. If the relay is doing noting at all, it could be either the relay itself or the output of the firmware that is at fault. Look for other causes before changing the relay. I have seen burned leads between the BNC jack and the board (likely caused by lightning). Both the center conductor and the shell are connected to the board via leads on the back of the jack - be sure to check both. Relays K17 and K18 are on the control board - which is the upper board when the top cover is turned upside down. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/5/2016 8:50 AM, Tim Cook wrote: I just discovered that I have a problem with my new (to me) K2. It appears that the antenna switch is stuck on antenna 1. Switching between Ant 1 and Antenna 2 with the feedline on Ant 1 doesn't change a thing in terms of receive signals. The ANT2 indicator turns on when pressing the ANT 1/2 but in reality it isn't switching. The tuner works fine when on antenna one. There are no signals received when the feedline is on Ant 2 and the indicator for Ant 2 is illuminated. With the tuner out of line (CALP or CALS) and switching antennas I cannot hear the relay switch between Ant 1 and Ant 2. If I put the tuner in AUTO and switch between Ant 1 and Ant 2 I can hear the tuner relays switch. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 Tuner issue (Ant 1 / Ant 2 switching)
I just discovered that I have a problem with my new (to me) K2. It appears that the antenna switch is stuck on antenna 1. Switching between Ant 1 and Antenna 2 with the feedline on Ant 1 doesn't change a thing in terms of receive signals. The ANT2 indicator turns on when pressing the ANT 1/2 but in reality it isn't switching. The tuner works fine when on antenna one. There are no signals received when the feedline is on Ant 2 and the indicator for Ant 2 is illuminated. With the tuner out of line (CALP or CALS) and switching antennas I cannot hear the relay switch between Ant 1 and Ant 2. If I put the tuner in AUTO and switch between Ant 1 and Ant 2 I can hear the tuner relays switch. Anyone run into this before? I just discovered this late last night and haven't taken the cover off yet to investigate. In a quick look at the schematic it looks like relay K18 is what switches the ant ports. Curious if this has been mentioned in the past, I did look at the archives and didn't find anything related to this. Any ideas or suggestions? I plan on taking a look at the tuner today and maybe check for voltage on K18. Never having worked on a KAT2 I don't know how difficult this will be to get at. Thanks Tim NZ8J __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2
I recently installed the KAT2 in my K2. Using a 20 meter inverted V dipole, it was working great with no problems. Then I tried it out on a end fed antenna and it also tuned it up. Then I switched back to my Inverted V and every time I try to tune it up I get LO P on the display. I looked it up and this means Low Power, so I increased the power to 15 watts and I still get the same message. I can't increase the power any more. Does anyone know what is happening? Thank you Aaron Scott __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2
Aaron, The KAT2 needs only 2 watts to TUNE - in fact the firmware limits the power to 2 watts during a TUNE. What was the SWR reported when you tried to tune the end-fed antenna? My guess is that the SWR was high. The most common cause of LO P message is that the K2 PA cannot deliver 2 watts - and that may mean one of 2 things - the PA transistors have been damaged, or the high SWR from the end-fed has damaged the diodes in the KAT2 wattmeter. Do a couple tests - set the ATU menu to CALP and connect a dummy load (an external wattmeter between the KAT2 and dummy load is helpful). Set the power knob to 5 watts and do a TUNE - how much power is being delivered. If it significantly higher than 5 watts on the external wattmeter and shows little power on the K2 display, then the KAT2 diodes have been damaged. After that test, you should do a test of the base K2 PA transistors. Remove the KAT2 (physically remove it), and use the ANT jack on the base K2. Set power to 5 watts and do a TUNE. If the power on the K2 display and and the external wattmeter are close to 5 watts, then the K2 PA transistors are OK and you will most likely find the problem in the KAT2 wattmeter diodes. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/18/2016 5:56 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote: I recently installed the KAT2 in my K2. Using a 20 meter inverted V dipole, it was working great with no problems. Then I tried it out on a end fed antenna and it also tuned it up. Then I switched back to my Inverted V and every time I try to tune it up I get LO P on the display. I looked it up and this means Low Power, so I increased the power to 15 watts and I still get the same message. I can't increase the power any more. Does anyone know what is happening? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Kat2
Does anyone have a KAT2 auto tuner for the K2 for sale? Martin, K5FLU __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 for sale
I’m reposting this in case you missed it. I have a KAT2 for sale from the SK estate. $113. Picture upon request. 73, Carl Yaffey K8NU Recording studio. cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 614 268 6353, Columbus OH http://www.carl-yaffey.com http://www.grassahol.com http://www.bluesswing.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 for sale
After the dust settled from the SK estate sales, I found one last item: a KAT2 antenna tuner. I have no details or documents. Picture on request. $113.00 includes shipping. Carl Yaffey K8NU Recording studio. cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 614 268 6353, Columbus OH http://www.carl-yaffey.com http://www.grassahol.com http://www.bluesswing.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 Adjustment Questions
Hi, I am in the process of installing the KAT2 and need some clarification on the bridge null adjustment procedure. Following the instructions, I set the slot of C55 parallel to the K2 rear panel. After activating TUNE I can adjust it down to about 002 or so. Then if I put it back into receive, then activate TUNE again, it goes back up to about 030. Is this normal? Also, on pin 1 of U4, I am seeing about 2.7 to 2.8 volts. Is this close enough to the 3 - 4 volts specified in the manual? Thanks, Mike - KI0HA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Adjustment Questions
Mike, You might try the bridge null a few times and take the average position. It is quite 'touchy', and yes it may vary a bit from trial to trial. As noted in the manual, the reading at the null depends on stray capacitance in the KAT2 - so if you moved anything it will change a bit, although a jump up to 30 is quite a bit. The 3 to 4 volts depends on the exact power as well as the number of turns on T1. If you have some way of monitoring the power output, you can see if the actual power is below 5 watts - if so, all is well. If not, check T1 to see if you wound it with the correct number of turns. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/30/2013 5:09 PM, Michael Eberle wrote: Hi, I am in the process of installing the KAT2 and need some clarification on the bridge null adjustment procedure. Following the instructions, I set the slot of C55 parallel to the K2 rear panel. After activating TUNE I can adjust it down to about 002 or so. Then if I put it back into receive, then activate TUNE again, it goes back up to about 030. Is this normal? Also, on pin 1 of U4, I am seeing about 2.7 to 2.8 volts. Is this close enough to the 3 - 4 volts specified in the manual? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 completion problem
I've been working very slowly on a KAT2, and everything was going well and checking out correctly. All the relays are working, and I finally arrived at the C55 Bridge Null Adjustment step. When I put the K2 into TUNE, I got a Hi Curr on the panel, and no output power. Not only that, but an antenna connected to port 1 of the ATU doesn't hear any signals. A few steps beyond this it asks me to check pin 1 of U4 (LM358) for 0 volts during receive, which is OK. During TUNE, the voltage isn't 3-4 volts, it's like 0.7 volts. Ohand then I realized that I had already installed R6 earlier, instead of after the voltage check. The shield coax of J7 is closer to the side panel of the K2 when plugged into J6, per the supplied addendum note. I was very careful taking the bottom cover off, and restoring the PA screws and washers. This was done to install a new J6, which was installed backwards by the previous owner. The resistance between ground and the collector of both PA transistors is 87 ohms. The KAT2 manual says this should be higher than 100 ohms, so I don't know if this is substantial or not. At this point, I'm stumped. Comments welcome. BTW, before I installed the KAT2, the K2 worked perfectly. 73, Tyler N4TY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 completion problem
Tyler, Your results are unusual. Remove the KAT2. Does the base K2 still work OK? If not, something has happened in the meantime. It would seem that you do not have a good path between the K2 and the antenna (or perhaps a short to ground). Check the KAT2 carefully for solder bridges. With the KAT2 in CAL P mode, you should have zero ohms resistance between the center conductor of the input coax and he ANT1 jack of the KAT2. ANT1 (with the KAT2 in CALP or CALs mode). 73, Don W3FPR On 7/27/2013 10:34 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote: I've been working very slowly on a KAT2, and everything was going well and checking out correctly. All the relays are working, and I finally arrived at the C55 Bridge Null Adjustment step. When I put the K2 into TUNE, I got a Hi Curr on the panel, and no output power. Not only that, but an antenna connected to port 1 of the ATU doesn't hear any signals. A few steps beyond this it asks me to check pin 1 of U4 (LM358) for 0 volts during receive, which is OK. During TUNE, the voltage isn't 3-4 volts, it's like 0.7 volts. Ohand then I realized that I had already installed R6 earlier, instead of after the voltage check. The shield coax of J7 is closer to the side panel of the K2 when plugged into J6, per the supplied addendum note. I was very careful taking the bottom cover off, and restoring the PA screws and washers. This was done to install a new J6, which was installed backwards by the previous owner. The resistance between ground and the collector of both PA transistors is 87 ohms. The KAT2 manual says this should be higher than 100 ohms, so I don't know if this is substantial or not. At this point, I'm stumped. Comments welcome. BTW, before I installed the KAT2, the K2 worked perfectly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 assembly
On the KAT2 a number of toroid cores are prepared and installed. L1 and L2 are to be prepared with an extremely exact length of solid hookup wire. The assembly instruction mentions that toroid cores remain somewhat loose within the winding. That is to put it mildly. They act like a baby's rattle. Do they really have to be like that, or may you shorten the length of the hook-up wire without operating deficiencies.? Hans , OZ5RB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 assembly
Hans, Yes, you may shorten the wire, it is the number of turns that count, not the wire length. However, it is usually easier to just spread the turns out until it tightens up a bit. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/10/2013 5:27 PM, Hans Elfelt Bonnesen wrote: On the KAT2 a number of toroid cores are prepared and installed. L1 and L2 are to be prepared with an extremely exact length of solid hookup wire. The assembly instruction mentions that toroid cores remain somewhat loose within the winding. That is to put it mildly. They act like a baby's rattle. Do they really have to be like that, or may you shorten the length of the hook-up wire without operating deficiencies.? Hans , OZ5RB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 high SWR problem..?
Gil, When you say you completed your KAT2 build, did you complete all of the final calibration steps, specifically the bridge null adjustment (p. 16 of the KAT2 manual) and the power calibration adjustment (p. 17)? I would be surprised if you could make those adjustments successfully and yet have the low output power you indicated into a good 50 ohm dummy load - a problem with T1 connections would be revealed during one or both of those adjustments if that were the source of difficulty. Be sure that you also have selected on the K2 front panel the correct antenna port (Ant 1/2) to which your dummy load is attached. 73, Mike, K8CN -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-high-SWR-problem-tp7563004p7563023.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 high SWR problem..?
Hello, I completed my K2 ATU, and everything checked out until the power-on test. With output power set at 5W, I only get 500mW out.. Where would I look first, T1 maybe? Thanks, Gil. -- PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 null
Got it. Thanks to Doug, W4DAS, Gary Surrency at Elecraft and my trusty magnifying glass everything is working well. Chuck NN7U -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345p7559492.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 null
Looks like the replies were directly to you so they don't show on the list. What turned out to be the trouble? -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345p7559500.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 null
Operator error(s). A relay in backwards, and a solder bridge that I cleaned up too well, removing the trace beneath it. Replaced the solder bridge and all was well. _ From: AF6NI [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n755950...@n2.nabble.com] Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 6:28 PM To: Chuck Teague Subject: Re: KAT2 C55 null Looks like the replies were directly to you so they don't show on the list. What turned out to be the trouble? _ If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345p7559500.html To unsubscribe from KAT2 C55 null, click http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=unsubsc ribe_by_codenode=7559345code=MmNlbnRzQGNoYXJ0ZXIubmV0fDc1NTkzNDV8NzEzNDg2M DI1 here. NAML http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=macro_v iewerid=instant_html%21nabble%3Aemail.namlbase=nabble.naml.namespaces.Basi cNamespace-nabble.view.web.template.NabbleNamespace-nabble.view.web.template .NodeNamespacebreadcrumbs=notify_subscribers%21nabble%3Aemail.naml-instant_ emails%21nabble%3Aemail.naml-send_instant_email%21nabble%3Aemail.naml _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5142 - Release Date: 07/19/12 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345p7559501.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 C55 null
I'm installing the KAT2 and am having trouble getting C55 to null (as so many have.) I've rewound T1, checked for solder bridges, errors in component placement, orientation or value and every thing else I can find to try from gleaning these archives. The only anomaly I can find so far is that pin 7 of U4 has 4.6 volts on it rather than zero. Pin 7 isn't used, but does the fact that voltage appears there indicate U4 is shorted? Voltage measurements were taken with the control board and LC board separated, and only J8 connected to the K2. One more question. I will be installing the 100 watt amplifier and KAT100 in a separate enclosure for later use. I understand that R6 on the KAT2 control board needs to be changed to 470 ohms for that operation; should I just do that now? Thanks to the group, Chuck NN7U -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 null
I somehow lost two emails to the ether so I can't do a direct reply, but thanks for the response. Yes, I'm sure it's pin 7 that has the 4.6 volts on it. Pin 8 has the expected 6 volts, and all the other voltages listed in the manual check out. NN7U -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-null-tp7559345p7559348.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 nul adjustment
Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am getting as the book says 1.1 SWR and on some bands 1.5so all is well I would assume? Mike VE3WDM -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-C55-nul-adjustment-tp7458047p7458887.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 nul adjustment
Mike, Yes, 1.5 is quite OK - your original email said 5:1 and that must have been a typo. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/12/2012 5:54 AM, VE3WDM wrote: Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am getting as the book says 1.1 SWR and on some bands 1.5so all is well I would assume? Mike VE3WDM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 C55 nul adjustment
Mike, The 009 to 010 on the balance is OK. Under what conditions do you read an SWR of 5:1? Is that after a TUNE has been completed? Or is that reading the SWR on your antenna with the ATU menu set to CAL S? What that statement in the manual is trying to say is that an SWR of 1.2 or even 1.5 is OK. The SWR indication does not show the :1 part - hopefully you are not misreading the display - the :1 is superfluous, it is sufficient to say that the SWR is 1.5 (for instance) If it is after a TUNE, then you may have some problem with the L/C board, or more likely your antenna has a very high or very low impedance on the band in question. The KAT2 range is large, but it it not infinite. For example, it will not match the end of a half wave dipole which has a very high impedance. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/11/2012 9:13 PM, Mike Weir wrote: I have completed the KAT2 tuner and adjusted C55 but could only get it down to between 010 - 009. I did notice that when I got a reading to 010 any further adjustment would result in a large jump. I would then have to take time and fine adjust C55 to 010 and maybe hit 009. I continued on with the rest of the tests and adjustments and the tuner seems to work fine. The only thing I did noticed was when checking out the SWR on all bands on some bands I got as high as 1:5. But I did read that all bands may not read 1:1 SWR. So my question is should I had been able to adjust C55 lower than between 010 and 009? Also is the SWR rise on some bands related to this or as it says in the manual that this my happen and is just fine?MikeVE3WDM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 C55 nul adjustment
I have completed the KAT2 tuner and adjusted C55 but could only get it down to between 010 - 009. I did notice that when I got a reading to 010 any further adjustment would result in a large jump. I would then have to take time and fine adjust C55 to 010 and maybe hit 009. I continued on with the rest of the tests and adjustments and the tuner seems to work fine. The only thing I did noticed was when checking out the SWR on all bands on some bands I got as high as 1:5. But I did read that all bands may not read 1:1 SWR. So my question is should I had been able to adjust C55 lower than between 010 and 009? Also is the SWR rise on some bands related to this or as it says in the manual that this my happen and is just fine?MikeVE3WDM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 only intermittently recognized by the K2
Ariel, Check the grounds. What you are saying is that when the chassis ground is connected to the base K2 your KAT2 is not recognized. Make certain the ground side of the connectors (KAT2 input coax and speaker wire) are on the correct side. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/22/2011 7:34 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote: Elecrafters I have been using the KPA100 for a while and the K2 QRP top has been sitting quietly in its box for a few months. Last night I decided to reconnect it for potential portable use and the the K2 does not recognize its presence- (i.e. the menus for the KAT2 do not show up). I decided to unplug and re-plug the connectors while the K2 top is standing next to the K2 and lo and behold, the K2 recognizes it on the menu. As soon as I bolted the top on - the K2 un-recognized the KAT2. I went through the routine of unplugging and re-plugging the 12V and RF connectors but as soon as I tightened the top screws the KAT2 was no longer recognized. Has this ever happened to anyone in the reflector? Perhaps someone can shed some light to steer me to solving this problem. Ariel NY4G __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 only intermittently recognized by the K2
Elecrafters I have been using the KPA100 for a while and the K2 QRP top has been sitting quietly in its box for a few months. Last night I decided to reconnect it for potential portable use and the the K2 does not recognize its presence- (i.e. the menus for the KAT2 do not show up). I decided to unplug and re-plug the connectors while the K2 top is standing next to the K2 and lo and behold, the K2 recognizes it on the menu. As soon as I bolted the top on - the K2 un-recognized the KAT2. I went through the routine of unplugging and re-plugging the 12V and RF connectors but as soon as I tightened the top screws the KAT2 was no longer recognized. Has this ever happened to anyone in the reflector? Perhaps someone can shed some light to steer me to solving this problem. Ariel NY4G __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 found
Thanks to all who responded, I now have my KAT2. 73 Bob w7wo __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 and KIO2
Hi, Does anyone have a KAT2 and KIO2 that they might part with? Please respond off line Bob w7wo b...@kalkwarf.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why. I mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have done so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an off-center feed in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern. As soon as I figure out what that was I'll come back here and try to clear up the confusion I have caused, but in the meantime let's all just agree that I don't know what I'm talking about. sigh ... 73, Dave AB7E On 8/25/2011 11:13 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf pattern. It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe and a NULL in the center Easy to verify with any modeling program. 73, Guy. On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com mailto:xda...@cis-broadband.com wrote: Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed. I wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created. 73 and thanks for catching my mistake. Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends. Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the radiation from the end is almost zero. The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote: I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I've gotten to the point, that before I say anything about a model, I actually run it and play with it, to make sure I haven't forgotten something, or remembered something wrong. As to that particular antenna a center fed half wave antenna is troublesome. The better version of that if one wants that pattern is the extended double zepp, two 5/8 waves fed in phase, where you are feeding a lower impedance at the center, and it's a far less cranky antenna. The double zepp maintains its essential shape fed at 45% whereas the halfwave converts to cloverleaf. That's ancient knowledge, garnered by experience in the 40's and 50's without the benefit of software. These days if you can't look it up for free on the internet, it's forgotten. 73, Guy. On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 12:17 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote: Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why. I mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have done so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an off-center feed in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern. As soon as I figure out what that was I'll come back here and try to clear up the confusion I have caused, but in the meantime let's all just agree that I don't know what I'm talking about. sigh ... 73, Dave AB7E On 8/25/2011 11:13 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf pattern. It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe and a NULL in the center Easy to verify with any modeling program. 73, Guy. On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote: Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed. I wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created. 73 and thanks for catching my mistake. Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends. Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the radiation from the end is almost zero. The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote: I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf pattern. It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe and a NULL in the center Easy to verify with any modeling program. 73, Guy. On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:37 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote: Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed. I wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created. 73 and thanks for catching my mistake. Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends. Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the radiation from the end is almost zero. The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote: I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Another simple end fed antenna was described by W2FRH in QST, March 2011, A Near End-Fed Antenna... . I just returned from a week at the Outer Banks and used this antenna with my K2 working DX from Europe and South America, plus several states. No trees near the beach house so it was a sloper from the top deck to a fence post. Measured SWR around 2:1 and the K2 matched to 1:1. 73 Bob K2GLS I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built the QRP version which uses a polyvaricon capacitor (available through Hendrix Kits among other sources) to create a very small tuning device that will match resonant End Fed half wavelength antennas on 40m, 30m, 20m, and 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 foot wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole and have had fun working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by exchanging the wire with one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a counterpoise and do not have any trouble at the rig. Steve explains why this works. For higher power a one meter counterpoise helps. I use this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with internal antenna tuners. The tuners are not needed, but I leave them activated to easily compensate for any small mismatch across the band. Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html William Ravenel, AI4VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of Hawaii for $42. I bought one and it works great with the entire Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna that fits into a sandwich baggie. This site also has the plans to build this one on your own if you would prefer. The main website is at: http://www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html The page for building it yourself is at: http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed.pdf And the page for the 'easy way out' is at: http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed20.pdf 73, Stan WB2LQF KX1 #2411K1#2994K2# 6980K3#5244 K9 #1 (Cocoa the Chihuahua) Everything is QRP, even the dog. On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 9:54 AM, William Ravenel wrote: Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built the QRP version which uses a polyvaricon capacitor (available through Hendrix Kits among other sources) to create a very small tuning device that will match resonant End Fed half wavelength antennas on 40m, 30m, 20m, and 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 foot wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole and have had fun working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by exchanging the wire with one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a counterpoise and do not have any trouble at the rig. Steve explains why this works. For higher power a one meter counterpoise helps. I use this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with internal antenna tuners. The tuners are not needed, but I leave them activated to easily compensate for any small mismatch across the band. Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html William Ravenel, AI4VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest a wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 meters where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency bands it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to assist with impedance matching. There's a huge difference between a full-size radiator and a short one that is made resonant using supplemental inductance. It will work as you, I, or anyone who has used a short, random length wire can attest, but it's efficiency is much lower than a radiator that is physically a half wavelength long. There's just nothing that can replace physical size for an efficient antenna. Not too much is lost on even multiples of a half wavelength. The impedance at a full wavelength, two wavelengths, etc., drops with each multiple, but still remains far above that impedance of even a 1/4 wave length radiator. And when dealing with any end-fed antenna worked against ground, higher impedance at the end of the antenna means higher efficiency for a given ground. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of Hawaii for $42. I bought one and it works great with the entire Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna that fits into a sandwich baggie. This site also has the plans to build this one on your own if you would prefer. The main website is at: http://www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html The page for building it yourself is at: http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed.pdf And the page for the 'easy way out' is at: http://www.earchi.org/pdf/endfed20.pdf 73, Stan WB2LQF KX1 #2411K1#2994K2# 6980K3#5244 K9 #1 (Cocoa the Chihuahua) Everything is QRP, even the dog. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33 foot radiator. A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to 32.8 feet. It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended. It loaded up nicely for me as received. I later tried a short counterpoise and did not note any difference in performance. I use a short coax of about 12 feet for portable work. It seems to work very well and only having to worry about hanging one end is convenient. And the wire is a nice quality that resists tangling. The documentation that came with mine warned that for 40 meter use, I'd need to replace the radiator with a 66 foot length and a wing nut arrangement is provided for that. I've never tried it on 40 meters. Ron, I'm no antenna expert (hence more money than brains) but I'd like to add that the precursor to this EFWHA came right out of the KX1 documentation. It's just a double BNC connector with a 28' radiator and a 33' counterpoise. I moved to the EFHWA because I got tired of untangling the two wires. In a side by side test, both antennas sounded the same to my ear. I retired the double BNC affair in favor of the EFWHA because I figured the EFWHA was a more efficient radiator, as you pointed out. Something my ears wouldn't necessarily disclose to me. I apologize for not having re-read the material on those links I provided. Apparently something has changed since I purchased mine. 73, Stan WB2LQF On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 11:06 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest a wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 meters where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency bands it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to assist with impedance matching. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
33 feet is a 1/2 wave on 20 meters all right. I was using the figures given in the homebrew article that suggested a much shorter wire. Yes, Wayne came up with the 28' radiator with 33'counerpoise as a combination that the little ATU in the KX1 could handle on all the bands it covers. The KX1 ATU has a more limited matching range than most of the tuners, including the other tuners in Elecraft rigs, because there simply wasn't room for more inductor/capacitor combinations in very limited space available. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33 foot radiator. A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to 32.8 feet. It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended. It loaded up nicely for me as received. I later tried a short counterpoise and did not note any difference in performance. I use a short coax of about 12 feet for portable work. It seems to work very well and only having to worry about hanging one end is convenient. And the wire is a nice quality that resists tangling. The documentation that came with mine warned that for 40 meter use, I'd need to replace the radiator with a 66 foot length and a wing nut arrangement is provided for that. I've never tried it on 40 meters. Ron, I'm no antenna expert (hence more money than brains) but I'd like to add that the precursor to this EFWHA came right out of the KX1 documentation. It's just a double BNC connector with a 28' radiator and a 33' counterpoise. I moved to the EFHWA because I got tired of untangling the two wires. In a side by side test, both antennas sounded the same to my ear. I retired the double BNC affair in favor of the EFWHA because I figured the EFWHA was a more efficient radiator, as you pointed out. Something my ears wouldn't necessarily disclose to me. I apologize for not having re-read the material on those links I provided. Apparently something has changed since I purchased mine. 73, Stan WB2LQF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Just speculating -- I bet a half-wavelength wire in inverted-L configuration fed at the base with a parallel-tuned circuit would work well. The high-current part of the vertical piece would be at the top, there would be plenty of current in the horizontal part too, and very little local ground current. On 8/24/2011 6:54 AM, William Ravenel wrote: Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built the QRP version which uses a polyvaricon capacitor (available through Hendrix Kits among other sources) to create a very small tuning device that will match resonant End Fed half wavelength antennas on 40m, 30m, 20m, and 17m. I use it mostly with a 33 foot wire on 20m raised on a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole and have had fun working DX with 5 watts. It is easy to change bands by exchanging the wire with one cut for the band of interest. I do not use a counterpoise and do not have any trouble at the rig. Steve explains why this works. For higher power a one meter counterpoise helps. I use this antenna with a K1 and K2, both with internal antenna tuners. The tuners are not needed, but I leave them activated to easily compensate for any small mismatch across the band. Steve's page is found at http://aa5tb.com/efha.html William Ravenel, AI4VE __ -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Phil, You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a 32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to close to 1:1 just fine. Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there twice within the past several years. See http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg and http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html 73, Niel - W0VLZ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:00:17 -0700 From: Phillip Shepardph...@riousa.com Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 2:14 PM, Niel Wiegand wrote: Phil, You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a 32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to close to 1:1 just fine. Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there twice within the past several years. See http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg and http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html 73, Niel - W0VLZ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:00:17 -0700 From: Phillip Shepardph...@riousa.com Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends. Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the radiation from the end is almost zero. The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote: I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I believe you must get into several wavelengths before you get significant end directivity from a long wire. My reference says that the angle of the main lobe to the antenna is about 55 degrees when the wire is a wavelength long, compared to 90 degrees at 1/2 wavelength. It takes a wire more than 7 wavelengths long for the angle of the main lobe to 20 degrees off of the end. For a horizontal wire, the angle of maximum radiation with respect to the horizon continues to be a function of height in wavelengths above ground. So, for a given wire a specific height above ground, as the frequency goes up, the lobes will slowly move toward the end and should be at an even *lower* elevations in the higher frequencies since the wire is higher above ground in terms of wavelengths. Of course one has to feed the wire. That's why most of us who use an end fed wire have it arranged as an inverted L. Mine is about 40 feet vertical from the rig, then 90 feet horizontally. So the radiation is a strong mix of vertical and horizontal polarization. On my favorite band, 20 meters, the vertical section is about optimum for low-angle vertical radiation and the height is perfect for low angle horizontal radiation. It works very well across the HF spectrum. I use an external homebrew tuner to provide physical separation between the very RF hot (on some bands) end of the wire and the rig (and me at the rig). As for impedance, it will be highest and 1/2 wavelength and diminish at longer lengths. Cranking a sample antenna into EZNEC shows that the impedance of a typical real-world wire at 1/4 wavelength long is about 35 ohms as expected. At 1/2 wave it's about 1500 ohms. At 1 wavelength it's about 800 ohms. At 2 wavelength it's about 300 ohms, and so on. Of course many things affect the actual impedance including the diameter of the radiator itself. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 2:14 PM, Niel Wiegand wrote: Phil, You might try a 67' length of wire (EFFW antenna). I've used that (and a 32' EFHW) on 20 a lot with my K1 with the KAT1 installed...tunes to close to 1:1 just fine. Have fun at Crater Lake. There are some neat places along the rim for hamming. It's a 2000 mile drive (one way) for me but I've gotten there twice within the past several years. See http://www.prismnet.com/~nielw/qrp/CraterLake_july04.jpg and http://w0vlz.blogspot.com/2009/08/after-three-weeks-5300-miles-and-12.html 73, Niel - W0VLZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much different and give a cloverleaf pattern if it were end fed. I wholeheartedly apologize for any confusion I may have created. 73 and thanks for catching my mistake. Dave AB7E On 8/24/2011 3:23 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends. Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the radiation from the end is almost zero. The elevation angle of maximum radiation is similar to a half wave dipole - about 15 degrees with a lesser lobe at 45 degrees (that is for a wire 70 feet high, at lower heights, the angle will be greater). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/24/2011 5:34 PM, David Gilbert wrote: I'm not sure I see the advantage. A full wave end fed antenna would theoretically have the same very high feedpoint impedance, and would additionally blow most of it's radiated energy at a fairly high angle off the ends of the antenna instead of broadside at a lower angle. If you find it that easy to tune, I suspect that electrically it really isn't that close to a full wavelength ... possibly because of coupling to earth (if it is low) or nearby structures. Either that or there is a lot of loss in the system somewhere. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Phillip Shepard wrote: I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. Probably normal. End-fed half-wave antennas are 4-5000 ohms impedance, so you're asking the tuner to match an 80-100:1 SWR which is beyond the range of most tuners. 73, Bill -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-S-meter-oddities-tp6676870p6718255.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you an SWR of several tens to one. Consider this it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss will more easily give you a match to a difficult load. 73, Dave AB7E On 8/23/2011 4:00 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote: I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
But, on the positive side, that very high impedance means an unusually efficient antenna since there is almost no ground current flowing at all. I use a setup like that at my home station - 1/2 wavelength long wire on 80 meters - with a homebrew manual L-network. Does a great job. One reason why small auto-tuners cannot handle that huge impedance is because of the voltages involved. Thousands of volts commonly exist even with fairly low power. The capacitors and inductors in most automatic tuners simply aren't rated for that. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:20 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you an SWR of several tens to one. Consider this it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss will more easily give you a match to a difficult load. 73, Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Phil, As others have responded, attempting to tune the end of a half-wave wire is beyond the range of most tuners, including the KAT2. Your added wire provided a compromise length, because the feedpoint impedance was reduced. Because the impedance of the EFHW is high, my favorite tuning section for a half wave antenna is a parallel tuned tank circuit - the radiator connects to one side of the parallel circuit and your counterpoise (or ground) connects to the cold end. Tune the paralled tank circuit for resonance near the operating frequency (and make it a permanent part of the antenna). Then wrap a few turns around the ground end of the inductor and use that link to connect to the KAT2. The fixed tuned circuit will handle the high impedance, and the impedance of the link will be much lower (depends on the square of the turns ratio). The KAT2 will do the job of matching into that link as you move about the band. In other words, you make a fixed tuner that becomes part of your EFHW dipole (no variable capacitor to tune the antenna - use a fixed capacitor that resonates with the inductor approximately mid-band. The KAT2 will tune quite nicely into the link winding and produce a low SWR. The alternative is to use a non-resonant wire length that provides a sufficiently low impedance as to be within the matching range of the tuner. The W3EDP antenna is one of those examples. Use that approach if you want to use the same antenna wire for multiple bands. As I recall, the W3EDP radiator is 85 feet long and the counterpoise is 17 feet for use on 80 meters and up. Half those lengths would work on 40 and up. I look at the W3EDP as sort-of an off-center-fed dipole - the counterpoise does not have to be on the ground to work well. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/23/2011 7:00 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote: I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
Thanks for all of the great advice. This reflector is a fountain of knowledge! I checked the 33' antenna/16' counterpoise combination with an MFJ259B, and it indicated over 25:1 SWR. Extending the antenna to 39' and adding a second radial of 6' gave an SWR reading of about 11:1 with the antenna analyzer. The KAT2 seems to handle that much better. This will get me through one or two SOTA peaks at Crater Lake later this week; and I can look for better solutions after that. Thanks again. 73, Phil, NS7P -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
An EFHW is a very efficient antenna, but the usual tuner needs help. One way to use the EFHW is to put a toroidal winding at the base of the antenna, between the tuner and the antenna. Bifilar or trifilar or quadrifilar windings configured as a tapped winding will reduce the tough impedance to something that the tuner will handle easily. The 80 meter version of this, an end-fed half-wave L fed against ground is probably the best single wire antenna for 80 meters that there is. 73, Guy. On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 11:50 PM, Phillip Shepard ph...@riousa.com wrote: Thanks for all of the great advice. This reflector is a fountain of knowledge! I checked the 33' antenna/16' counterpoise combination with an MFJ259B, and it indicated over 25:1 SWR. Extending the antenna to 39' and adding a second radial of 6' gave an SWR reading of about 11:1 with the antenna analyzer. The KAT2 seems to handle that much better. This will get me through one or two SOTA peaks at Crater Lake later this week; and I can look for better solutions after that. Thanks again. 73, Phil, NS7P -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W. I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack by the loss of the MFJ. The KAT2 tuner checked out fine on the bench, but it had a very hard time getting a good match to the antenna. In AUTO mode, it only got the SWR down to about 5:1. I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending on the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'), and it got down to about 1.5:1. Five or six feet added yielded a perfect match (1:1). So I now have a 39' wire for 20m use. Is this normal? Should the KAT2 be able to more easily match the 33' halfwave antenna? Thank you. 73, Phl, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Hello, When I adjust C55 I initially get a high current message that last for a second, followed by a fluctuating power indication. The lowest I can adjust c55 down to is 1.7 volts. So what have I missed. Thanks in advance. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683608.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, The most common cause is T1 connected incorrectly or having insufficiently stripped and tinned leads, so check that first. The HiCur message may indicate a bad or incorrectly oriented diode. Check all the components in the wattmeter area for good soldering and correct values T1, D1, D2, C54, C55, R3, R4, C50, C51, R1, R2, C52, and C53. Check for continuity from the center conductor of the input cable to the center of the selected BNC antenna jack - you should find a very low resistance (quite close to zero). Also check for a short from the center conductor to ground. A relay that is not operating properly (due to an unsoldered pin) can also cause that behavior. If that does not correct things, I can tell you how to bypass the L-C board and test the wattmeter section alone. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 2:03 PM, EMD wrote: Hello, When I adjust C55 I initially get a high current message that last for a second, followed by a fluctuating power indication. The lowest I can adjust c55 down to is 1.7 volts. So what have I missed. Thanks in advance. 73, Ed ke7hga __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Thanks Don I will start looking into those areas. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683673.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Don I was using a cable to connect my Dummy load to the tuner. So I decided to see if maybe the connection could be bad so I connected the tuner directly to the #1 antenna jack and that was it. Now I have a steady power ready of 3.0 volts. Thanks again. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683787.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Don, I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6 installed. So should I remove it and start over? 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683878.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, No, R6 will not influence the bridge null. You are instructed to leave it out until you check the voltage at U4 pin 1, during receive - it should be zero - but you can also check that with R6 in. The zero voltage in receive is the important one to the rest of the K2. If you do detect voltage during receive, then remove R6 until you can find the problem, otherwise leave it in. The check for voltage in transmit is to be sure things are working right in the wattmeter output, but that can also be checked with R6 installed. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 5:06 PM, EMD wrote: Don, I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6 installed. So should I remove it and start over? 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683878.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Okay Don thanks again. I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I continue. But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684000.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, Do I recall that you have the Elecraft DL1? If so, you have the perfect item for calibrating the power - in fact, better than most wattmeters. Just measure the DC voltage at the diode and calculate the power - set the forward voltage pot so the K2 indicates that same power, and job done. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 7:01 PM, EMD wrote: Okay Don thanks again. I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I continue. But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Thanks Don, I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use the DMM probes? 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684038.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, With the Elecraft DL1, just use the DMM probes. If you do not have the DL1, connect the RF Probe across the dummy load (use a Tee adapter if you do not have direct access to the dummy load terminals) - but keep the power to 5 watts or less to keep from zapping the diode in the RF probe. You can also use an oscilloscope (with a 10X probe) to measure the peak to peak RF voltage across the dummy load. In that case, the calculation formula is Power = (Vp-p) squared and divided by 400. Derivation left to the student. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 7:53 PM, EMD wrote: Thanks Don, I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use the DMM probes? 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684038.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, I would also recommend doing the power calibration on 40 meters - it is a good compromise. There \is some variation in the response of the diodes with respect to frequency, and also, if you are using an oscilloscope to measure the RF voltage, the bandwidth of the 'scope can cause some confusion - if your 'scope (and probe) is rated at 35 MHz, the vertical response will be down 3 dB at 35 MHz. The use of a 'scope rated at 35 MHz can be used for RF voltage measurements at 7 MHz, but using it at 14 MHz, expect that the RF voltage shown by the scope will be less than the actual RF voltage. Do not even think of using a hunk of coax attached to the 'scope to measure RF voltages with any accuracy - a 10X probe is mandatory to keep the 'scope from loading the device to be measured (in this case, the transmitter output). 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 7:53 PM, EMD wrote: Thanks Don, I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use the DMM probes? 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684038.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Don, When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0 volts. When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts. I have also noticed that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and other times I see 2.4f 0.0r. So what should I be looking at to adjust R1. Sorry to be so dense but this has me confused. Also when I select TUNE the S meter fluctuates with the power display. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684158.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Ed, Not enough information, so I am forced to make assumptions. Are you using the RF probe to measure the RF voltage across the dummy load? If so, 6 volts yields 0.72 watts as you stated, but if you have the Elecraft DL1 and measure 6 volts, the power is 1.49 watts. Adjust R1 to agree with the external power reading. If you continue to see extreme fluctuation in the power displayed by the K2, you may want to change the value of R98 on the bottom of the RF board. See http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Power_Control_Mod.html for the rest of the story. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/13/2011 9:30 PM, EMD wrote: Don, When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0 volts. When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts. I have also noticed that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and other times I see 2.4f 0.0r. So what should I be looking at to adjust R1. Sorry to be so dense but this has me confused. Also when I select TUNE the S meter fluctuates with the power display. 73, Ed ke7hga -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684158.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Bridge null adjustment
Sorry Don, I was using the DMM leads and not the RF probe to read the voltage on the DL1 measuring 6 volts. Thanks again Don, Ed -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684272.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 J8
Hello, I'm confused on the construction of J8. First the manual states there are 12 mini crimp pins including 2 spares. J8 has ten pins but I only have 4 wires that come the Control board minus the bare lead. So am I inserting the crimp pins with the wires in one side of J8 and inserting empty ones on the opposite side? Or maybe this will make sense in the morning. Thanks in advance. 73, Ed KE7HGA -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-J8-tp788p788.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 J8
The instructions tell you to insert all of the pins so the connector will be more difficult to remove (so it will not fall off by itself). I do not consider that a problem, if you put in only the 4 pins which have wires attached, the force required to insert the connector (and remove it) is considerable. In other words, I do not think it will fall off with only those 4 pins inserted. But make your choice - only the 4 pins or insert all the unused pins. Electrically, it makes no difference, mechanically, it will take more force to insert and remove the connector if all the pins are inserted. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/8/2011 10:37 PM, EMD wrote: Hello, I'm confused on the construction of J8. First the manual states there are 12 mini crimp pins including 2 spares. J8 has ten pins but I only have 4 wires that come the Control board minus the bare lead. So am I inserting the crimp pins with the wires in one side of J8 and inserting empty ones on the opposite side? Or maybe this will make sense in the morning. Thanks in advance. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 J8
Don, I understand now, thanks. Ed -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-J8-tp788p871.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 Build Question
Hi All, I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go smoother for me. I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual says to install all the relays after I installed those small 102 caps. I noticed that other caps go into holes that will be directly under the relays on the other side of the board. My dilemma is that I am concerned that if I don't install those caps BEFORE installing the relays, I run the risk of piercing them with the leads or having solder go through and melt them. I know how fragile the relays are because I nicked one with my soldering iron when I built my K1. It had to be replaced. Conversely, if I install the caps first, I run the risk of not having the relays sit flat...even if I trim the leads beforehand. I know this is a critical issue as space is at a premium on the boards, and it has to fit with it's control board within tight tolerances. Should I follow the instructions, or deviate slightly so I know I won't damage something? The KAT2 is quite possibly the most important option one would buy. 73 es thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Build Question
David, Just follow the instructions in order and all will be well. You must flush cut the relay leads after soldering, and that will not be easy if you mount the capacitors first. When it comes to the capacitors that fit above the relays, yes, you will trim the leads before soldering as instructed in the manual. The inductor leads are similar - just follow the instructions. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/28/2011 9:24 AM, David Dietrich wrote: Hi All, I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go smoother for me. I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual says to install all the relays after I installed those small 102 caps. I noticed that other caps go into holes that will be directly under the relays on the other side of the board. My dilemma is that I am concerned that if I don't install those caps BEFORE installing the relays, I run the risk of piercing them with the leads or having solder go through and melt them. I know how fragile the relays are because I nicked one with my soldering iron when I built my K1. It had to be replaced. Conversely, if I install the caps first, I run the risk of not having the relays sit flat...even if I trim the leads beforehand. I know this is a critical issue as space is at a premium on the boards, and it has to fit with it's control board within tight tolerances. Should I follow the instructions, or deviate slightly so I know I won't damage something? The KAT2 is quite possibly the most important option one wou ld buy. 73 es thanks, David KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 Sent from my iPod __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2
Hi, I need some help. I just finished KAT2 and got a lot of problems. Befor I explain, I get the message E000 in the menu, what does it mean? Is there a problem with the MCU? 73 Peter, DF8BB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2
Peter, I forget what the E000 error really means, but those kind of errors come from the option firmware. If you have a 'scope with a 10x probe, you can check for oscillation at the resonator pins (or U1 pins 13 and 14). Check your cable connections and your soldering for potential problems, and if you find none, ask pa...@elecraft.com for a replacement KAT2 firmware IC and a new resonator. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/2/2011 11:54 AM, Peter Wierach wrote: Hi, I need some help. I just finished KAT2 and got a lot of problems. Befor I explain, I get the message E000 in the menu, what does it mean? Is there a problem with the MCU? 73 Peter, DF8BB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2
The KAT2 has been spoken for. Jim Douglas K2ZF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] kat2 question
Hello all, I have completed the assembly of my kat2 and am at the testing phase. The question is: I hear relay clicking when going thru the display settings for L0-L8, C0-C8, N1 N2, but NOT for CALn,CALP, CALS, AUTO, ALT and POUT. Is this normal? Thanks in advance 73 Dan Daniel Grizzard Extra Class af4lb __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kat2 question
Dan, That is quite normal. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/9/2011 2:58 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote: Hello all, I have completed the assembly of my kat2 and am at the testing phase. The question is: I hear relay clicking when going thru the display settings for L0-L8, C0-C8, N1 N2, but NOT for CALn,CALP, CALS, AUTO, ALT and POUT. Is this normal? Thanks in advance 73 Dan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] kat2
Hello all, I just started the inventory of parts for my kat2 and all is going well until I got to the 102 caps. For the life of me I cannot determine the two smaller ones! I have lined them up with a ruler on a marble top table and looked at them from all angles. All 26 appear to be the same size. Any suggestions? Secondly, thetwo trimmer potentiometers are listed at 100k but 150k was shipped. A problem? 73 all Dan Daniel Grizzard Extra Class af4lb __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kat2
A suggestion from QST I have used with success is to photograph the parts with a digital camera on it's highest resolution setting and enlarge them on the computer. Just be sure not to get too close or your lens may not be able to focus. If you have a macro setting, that can help too. Don't worry about being a foot or two away: modern cameras can make the tiniest part large. 73, Byron N6NUL On Sunday, January 2, 2011, Dan Grizzard af...@verizon.net wrote: Hello all, I just started the inventory of parts for my kat2 and all is going well until I got to the 102 caps. For the life of me I cannot determine the two smaller ones! I have lined them up with a ruler on a marble top table and looked at them from all angles. All 26 appear to be the same size. Any suggestions? -- - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kat2
Dan, The trimmer pots are OK, use the 150k value. The capacitors are a different matter, there are two that must fit between the processor socket and the header to the L/C board. The .001 uF capacitors seem to have become fatter over the years due to manufacturing changes. Check to see if you have 2 extra .001 uF capacitors somewhere in the kit. As I recall, there were 2 disc ceramics in the last KAT2 kit I built (but then I may have pulled them out of my parts drawer, my memory can be fuzzy. There was a period of time when the errata sheet was included, but the parts ECO had not yet been updated. So if you purchased the kit a few months ago and are just now getting around to building it, you may indeed have those capacitors missing - if so, contact pa...@elecraft.com. Explain carefully so that you receive the thin capacitors There is no part number given in the errata sheet, but I know PN E530072 will work just fine even if you have to form the leads for the wider spacing. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/2/2011 11:58 AM, Dan Grizzard wrote: Hello all, I just started the inventory of parts for my kat2 and all is going well until I got to the 102 caps. For the life of me I cannot determine the two smaller ones! I have lined them up with a ruler on a marble top table and looked at them from all angles. All 26 appear to be the same size. Any suggestions? Secondly, thetwo trimmer potentiometers are listed at 100k but 150k was shipped. A problem? 73 all Dan Daniel Grizzard Extra Class af4lb __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] kat2 or ssb module first?
I have my K2 up and running nicely now for several months and now want to build and install my ssb and automatic tuner modules. Any suggestions which to do first? I don't want to have to remove one to install the other. 73 Dan Daniel Grizzard Extra Class af4lb __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kat2 or ssb module first?
Dan, Not to worry, those options are independent of each other. Do them in whichever order suits your fancy. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/30/2010 8:28 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote: I have my K2 up and running nicely now for several months and now want to build and install my ssb and automatic tuner modules. Any suggestions which to do first? I don't want to have to remove one to install the other. 73 Dan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2: voltage reading
Don, thank you - everything looks fine. The tuner seems to work. 73! de Werner OE9FWV Don Wilhelm schrieb am 25 Nov 2010 um 19:59: Werner, You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect somewhere in the manual. I would guess that the 2.4 volts is OK. That may change when you finish the power calibration. Connect R6 (47 ohms if the K60XV is not installed, or 470 ohms with the K60XV) and see what happens. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/25/2010 6:03 PM, Dr. Werner Furlan wrote: I am in the course of finishing the KAT2 assembly. I did the C55 adjustment like discribed on page 16: Press T U N E button and release it when you see the display change. Adjust C55 for an indication as close as possible to 0 0 0 . Tap or hold T U N E again to cancel the C A L n display and return to receive mode I get as close as 007 - is this normal or indicating a problem? next question: On page 17 of the assembly manual at this point: -- Go into TUNE mode briefly. At 5 watts, the voltage should be between 3 and 4 volts. If it is much lower or higher than this, you probably have a wiring error in the SWR bridge. Remove the KAT2 control board from the L-C board and check the wiring of T1. Make sure T1's leads are properly stripped. -- I have a reading of only 2.4 V. I checked the T1 wiring but do not see a mistake. Should I go on and add R6 or should I remove T1 and check it outside the board? -- False hope is nicer than no hope at all. Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at http://www.pmail.com Homepage: http://www.qsl.net/oe9fwv/ Fone +43 5522 75013 Fax +43 5522 22505 Mobile +43 664 6340014 Fax-Email Gateway +43 820 220262990 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2: voltage reading
I am in the course of finishing the KAT2 assembly. I did the C55 adjustment like discribed on page 16: Press T U N E button and release it when you see the display change. Adjust C55 for an indication as close as possible to 0 0 0 . Tap or hold T U N E again to cancel the C A L n display and return to receive mode I get as close as 007 - is this normal or indicating a problem? next question: On page 17 of the assembly manual at this point: -- Go into TUNE mode briefly. At 5 watts, the voltage should be between 3 and 4 volts. If it is much lower or higher than this, you probably have a wiring error in the SWR bridge. Remove the KAT2 control board from the L-C board and check the wiring of T1. Make sure T1's leads are properly stripped. -- I have a reading of only 2.4 V. I checked the T1 wiring but do not see a mistake. Should I go on and add R6 or should I remove T1 and check it outside the board? 73! de Werner OE9FWV -- Think about it . A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail? Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at http://www.pmail.com Homepage: http://www.qsl.net/oe9fwv/ Fone +43 5522 75013 Fax +43 5522 22505 Mobile +43 664 6340014 Fax-Email Gateway +43 820 220262990 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2: voltage reading
Werner, You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect somewhere in the manual. I would guess that the 2.4 volts is OK. That may change when you finish the power calibration. Connect R6 (47 ohms if the K60XV is not installed, or 470 ohms with the K60XV) and see what happens. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/25/2010 6:03 PM, Dr. Werner Furlan wrote: I am in the course of finishing the KAT2 assembly. I did the C55 adjustment like discribed on page 16: Press T U N E button and release it when you see the display change. Adjust C55 for an indication as close as possible to 0 0 0 . Tap or hold T U N E again to cancel the C A L n display and return to receive mode I get as close as 007 - is this normal or indicating a problem? next question: On page 17 of the assembly manual at this point: -- Go into TUNE mode briefly. At 5 watts, the voltage should be between 3 and 4 volts. If it is much lower or higher than this, you probably have a wiring error in the SWR bridge. Remove the KAT2 control board from the L-C board and check the wiring of T1. Make sure T1's leads are properly stripped. -- I have a reading of only 2.4 V. I checked the T1 wiring but do not see a mistake. Should I go on and add R6 or should I remove T1 and check it outside the board? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Error code 202
In case anyone in the future has the same question, here is a follow-up for the archive: According to Gary at Elecraft error code 202 in the KAT2 submenu is a normal result code. So all is well. 73, Paul - N8XMS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 Error code 202
My recently installed KAT2 indicates an error code of 202. The manual says that error codes for the ATU range from 0 to 199. Does an error code of 202 indicate anything? Thanks in advance for any replies. 73, Paul - N8XMS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Error code 202
Paul, To the best of my knowledge, E202 would be something that the KAT100 might display, but not the KAT2. Perhaps someone got the firmware stickers wrong. I think you should send a note to supp...@elecraft.com. 73, Don W3FPR Paul Huff wrote: My recently installed KAT2 indicates an error code of 202. The manual says that error codes for the ATU range from 0 to 199. Does an error code of 202 indicate anything? Thanks in advance for any replies. 73, Paul - N8XMS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 Error code 202
Please note that I also receive this error code on my KAT2 (202). I have successfully gone through all of the testing steps to ensure that each inductive and capacitive component is available and can be switched into and out of the circuit. It is my impression, however, that the tuner unit does not work as well as it did when first installed. Some relatively simple loads will not tune below, say, 1.8 - 2.0 to 1. Ed Lambert KD3Y __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT2 ERRATA
Says caps C45 C60 are smaller. The caps I rcvd are all the same size. (26 pcs) Do I need to send for smaller caps? tnx George/W2BPI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 ERRATA
George, The problem was the thickness of the capacitors. The normal .001 uF capacitors from the manufacturer got thicker at some point and the new capacitors were too thick to physically fit on the Control Board between the U1 socket and the J4 header. The last KAT2 that I built had 2 extra .001 uF capacitors in the bag that were not as thick. Complete your inventory and see if you have 2 extras in your kit. It may be that Elecraft has eliminated the problem by changing the capacitor vendor and someone forgot to update the errata sheet. If you do not have two extra caps, it would be best to call Elecraft (831) 763-4211 and talk with Scott about it. Or, you can just build the KAT2 - but do not install C45 and C60 until after you have mounted the U1 socket and J4. If you can physically put the capacitors in after those components are mounted, then all is well. If you choose this later method, be certain to write yourself a reminder note to install C45 and C50 lest you forget. 73, Don W3FPR w2b...@aol.com wrote: Says caps C45 C60 are smaller. The caps I rcvd are all the same size. (26 pcs) Do I need to send for smaller caps? tnx George/W2BPI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
