[Elecraft] CW Learning Techniques
Hi to all, sorry this is a bit off topic but I know there are a lot of good CW ops on this list. I am currently working on CW head copy at around 20wpm. I get most of the smaller words (say up to 5 letters) with no problem but miss many of the longer ones, I forget the first few letters by the time I get to the last few. However, the real question is should I visualise the letters (like imagining a typewriter with my eyes shut) or just sort of recognise the letters in an abstract sort of way leaving the brain to piece them together in the background so to speak (hard to describe this bit). I am aware of both methods happening but not sure whether to force the visualising method in case it will slow me down later on. The visualising does help me to get some of the longer words but maybe it's not good in the long term. The art and skill of radio telegraphy book doesn't seem to offer any pointers here. Maybe it doesn't matter much either way but your expert opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft You must subscribe to post. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, Unsub etc): http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW Learning Techniques
Thanks to all for the many helpful replies on this thread. As usual one finds that many people have trodden this path before which is encouraging. My experience here in Europe is that the most frustrating thing of all is the large number of sloppy fists out there particularly at the slow speeds. How a biginner is supposed to copy that stuff goodness only knows, still that's the real world and we must master it. Maybe I need to be more selective on which CQ to answer hi. 73's and thanks again to all. BTW I'd love to work some of you guys across the pond with my K1. I've just got some wires up for 20m but 14.060 seems pretty dead in the evenings at the moment, is this normal for this time of year? When is the best time for UK/USA working on 20m? M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft You must subscribe to post. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, Unsub etc): http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 in China?
Hi Guys, I have to go to mainland China on business. Any chance I may be able to operate my K1 there? I don't know a thing about ham radio in China. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft; K1 in China?
Hi folks, I am going to mainland China on Business. Any chance I would be able to operate my K1 there? Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft; First CW QSO
Snip Just a quick note to the list that my newly assembled KX1 serial number 753 is alive. I made my first QSO this evening just after 2300Z to WU3L (Frank) on 40m. This was not only the first QSO for the KX1 but was also my first CW QSO ever (not counting fooling around with friends). The KX1 performed admirably; I was intensely nervous! I love this stuff! 73! -- Scott (NE1RD) B. Scott Andersen| Magic is real, unless declared integer. [EMAIL PROTECTED] | -- The collected sayings of Wiz Zumwalt Acton, Massachusetts | Amateur Radio == ne1rd Snip Well done Scott. My first cw qso was only 12 months ago and I too was a complete bag of nerves with my straight key. Keep on with the CW. It's taken me 12 months and over 500 qso's to get relaxed and confident at 15wpm but all the practise is paying off now. Hope to work you one day. 73's Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Subject: Elecraft, K1 Filter Board Questions
Snip I have obtained a K1 and have a couple of questions regarding the KFL1-4 board. Is there any reason it can't be constructed with 80 - 40 - 30 - 20 meters? If you purchase a new one it comes with 40 - 30 - 20 - 17/15 meters. Considering the state of the solar cycle I'd prefer a board with lower frequency capability. So is it possible to build a board with 80 - 40 - 30 - 20? Second question has to do with 60 Meters. Is it technically feasible to have 60 meter receive cavility on a K1, assuming the toroids and other components aer appropriate to the frequency? The K1 is a super little rig and I'ce already become very fond of it. It would be perfect if I could get my preferred band selection on one filter board. 73, Ron WA5VFA Snip Ron, I built a 4-band board for 40/30/20/15 and a two band board for 80/40m so since 40m is a favourite for me I have it on both boards. My antennas are all resonant so I don't use the kat 1 much and swapping the boards takes only about 3 mins. Have fun Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K1 Filter Board Questions
Snip Martin wrote: ...I built a 4-band board for 40/30/20/15 and a two band board for 80/40m Hi Martin, Is your frequency of operation on 40m accurately shown on the LCD for *both* filter boards? The problem with having the same band on two different filter boards is that the K1 front panel MCU can only store *one* display calibration constant for each HF ham band (as set using the OPF function). The calibration constant is not stored in the filter board MCU. Unless the hetrodyne crystal oscillators for that duplicated band on both filter boards operate at the same frequency, the LCD frequency display for that band will be inaccurate for the filter board which was not installed at the time of the OPF frequency display calibration. Judging by three Elecraft 40m hetrodyne crystals I've tried, the variation between crystals can be several kHz. The effects of hetrodyne oscillator frequency variations do *not* automatically show up on the K1 LCD frequency display. The LCD display is driven by a frequency counter program in the front panel MCU that senses *only* the raw output of the VFO before it is mixed with any other oscillators in the K1. 73, Mike / KK5F Snip You are quite right Mike, the frequency calibration is only correct for one of the boards but the error seems to be fairly small (as you say it depends on the frequency difference of the crystals) and doesn't bother me. I just keep away from the band edges hi. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft- Antennas and trees
Snip Bad news. Very sorry indeed. I agree with Ron about strain relief when using trees. A MUST in my opinion. Here I have a rope catenary up about 80 feet and about 200ft long, one end to a pine tree - the other to a hardwood. Both dance in the 100 mph winds we get at times, nothing like your winds. The rope is 6mm triple braided ultraviolet resistant for marine use. The pulleys also for marine use (sheets) with ball bearings and of the ENCLOSED type so that the chance of a flying twig jamming a pulley is much reduced. I had this happen years ago when using open pulleys. My counterweight is like Ron's but low tech. Don't have the bucket yet. Good luck and 73, GeoffGM4ESD Snip Geoff, how did you get a fixing on the tree at 80 feet! I have a poplar tree here at about 60 feet high but only got a fixing at 30 feet. I lost my bottle to climb any higher hi. Martin M0KWV K1 # 1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft, Reply to Herb
Hi Herb, saw your message to the reflector and thought I would offer my own experience. Firstly congrats on the license, I got licensed here in the UK about 16 months ago now, I chose the Elecraft K1 as my first rig for the following reasons: I wanted to work mainly HF CW at QRP levels and the K1 being CW only would commit me to learning CW ( ie no mic to fall back on) I don't have a lot of spare cash. (The K1 is not cheap but excellent value for money) I like building things and have been soldering for many years The write ups for the K1 (and K2 of course) were excellent and having downloaded the instruction manual and circuit diagram I was absolutely hooked, I just had to have one! The K1 is very small and suited my tiny shack (basically a writing desk in the corner of the lounge) The K1 is a rig I can understand (the basics anyway) and would be able to fault find if anything went wrong (can't afford expensive bills for sending gear back to the manufacturers) The K1 offered portability (I have a caravan) The were many other reasons but those are the main ones. It took me a few months to complete the K1 mainly because I took my time and I only had an hour or so in the evenings to do it. I had the minimum of test equipment (a digital multi meter, my ears and a long wire down the garden), it was done on the kitchen table with a basic tool kit and a 25W soldering iron. Herb, you can't believe my amazement when at every step the K1 worked first time perfectly, I had no problems whatsoever, I had to spread the VFO coil out a bit to get the correct range (which it tells you to do in the manual) and aligning the 20m filters took a few goes until I could hear a signal to peak up on. As many have said on this reflector the main thing is go slowly, follow the manual to the letter, check everything as you do it 3 times just to make sure and be able to make a reasonable solder joint. Soldering is not difficult once you know how. If you need to learn soldering then read the elecraft tutorial and if possible watch someone do it and copy them. If you have never put together an electronics kit before then I would suggest you buy one of the cheap QRP kits first (say a SW receiver) and use that as a practise project, it will give you confidence and get your soldering up to scratch. When I have got proficient in CW I may get a K2 but I'm more than happy with the K1 at present, it is still my only rig running 5W into simple dipole antennas and I get great reports and lots of fun. I don't know your personal situation Herb but hope that the above may help. Welcome to the hobby and maybe see you on the bands one day. 73's Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1
Hi folks, I have a TS520S. The low level circuitry is faulty but the PA and tank circuits are OK. My main rig is the K1 but it would be nice to be able to run QRO on occasions. So to get QRO on the cheap could I use the PA on the TS520 as an amp for the K1? My antennas are all resonant so matching to the TS520 is no probs. I guess I would loose QSK and would need a relay to bypass the 520 in rx mode. Not sure what sort of signal level would be required at the grid of the 1st 6146. One thought is to operate the K1 into a dummy load with a resistor divider tap off to feed the amp. Don't really want to modify the K1. Also is K1 OK being operated in close proximity to 100W tank circuits. There's plenty of metal around it. This is all off the top of my head and I have no experience of RF power amps. Am I flogging a dead horse here or should I just build a linear? Can't afford a K2 hi. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 goes QRO !
Hi folks, the K1 is my only rig (I've been licensed only 18 months) and I have been enjoying the delights of HF QRP and CW, however I do have an old TS520. It is very sick and I don't have the time or inclination to fix it (the K1 is more than good enough for me) but the bomb proof driver and PA is fully functional. So over Xmas I have made various mods to the driver and control circuits and now have the facility to either run the K1 on it's own or at the flick of a switch use it to drive the TS520 up to 100W. QRO on the cheap hi. I'm quite chuffed at having modern micro p equipment working with the old valve (tube) amps a real hybrid. I have to sacrifice auto CW break in but I'm not too fussed about that. One question though, do I need to worry about any increase in harmonics or alteration of the keying waveshape by running the K1 signal through the TS520? I've looked at the output on a scope and it looks clean to me but I don't have a spectrum analyser. All the best for the New Year 73's Martin M0KWV K1 No 1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Keying Amp with K1
Hi folks I am using my K1 to drive the tube PA in an old TS520 and it works great but I'm using manual keying of the TS520. I have been reading the various posts here on keying an amp from the 8R line of the K2. I want to do the same thing on the K1. I figure that if I use the 6A and 6R line from the 3 pin connector on the filter board (connector J1 for the Kat1) it will work the same as the K2 mod. I guess I will have to set the K1 QSK delay much longer in the K1 to prevent the old TS520 switching too often. The TS520 keying line has +15 V on it and it goes to ground with 2.5mA drain. I propose to use the little two transistor circuit shown on the Elecraft Web site or something similar. If I use a bipolar in stead of a fet and a 10K to it's base I reckon I'll get 2.2mA draw on the 6A line and 0.5mA on 6R line when in Rx and 0.5mA on the 6A line on Tx. Does all this seem OK to you experts? Is the 6R line the best one to use? Don't want to damage anything. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1
Thanks Bob, yes the resistors are metal film or something like that but definitely not wire wound. I spent a fair time on the air last night on 40/80 with the K1 and 100W from the TS520. It works like a charm. The K1 switches the TS520 T/R relays via a little 2 transistor switching circuit (looking at the K1 6R line) which grounds the TS520 PTT line. I built the circuit onto a small piece of vero board which plugs into the 3 pin socket on the filter board (like the official K2 mod) . A screened cable then connects the open collector to the PTT pin on the TS520 Mic socket. I've set the T-R delay to about 500ms so the relays don't switch too much. Do I need to worry about this? If I set it so that it switches say between each word will that wear out the relays too quickly, not sure how robust they are. When operating the K1 barefoot I use a T-R delay of 50ms. Thanks Martin M0KWV [EMAIL PROTECTED] on 13/01/2005 16:58:55 To:[EMAIL PROTECTED] cc: Subject:Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: Amplifier for K1 Hi Martin, Got that fine. You have got the best of what is possible using the TS520 with the way you have done the mod. Just a point make sure you do not use 2 x100 ohm wire wound resistors for the dummy load. They must be carbon otherwise odd effects can occur due to inductance. You may be well aware of this effect, but I am pointing it out in any case as 2.5W is one of the standard dissapation values for wire wound resistors! Regards, Bob, G3VVT Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 Filter Bandwidth
I've had my K1 for 18 months and I still keep finding features I didn't know about! I just found out last night that I can change the filter bandwidth on line so to speak whilst I am listening to the received signal. Don't know why I didn't think of trying this before. Maybe this is obvious to most people but not to beginners like me! Sometimes with FIL3 set at 200Hz on a weak signal the sig disappears altogether and the filter just needs widening a bit. Fantastic little radio. Mine gets a real hammering and is faultless. Don't forget the K1! Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: RFI Problems
Sorry this is off topic but there is so much experience here. I've been licensed for only 2 years, my only rig is K1 so I've been QRP CW only (and enjoyed it immensely). I've recently started using a PA to get up to 100W on 3.5 to 21MHz, but RFI problems have started to appear. Here are the symptoms: 50Hz hum on key down on hi fi Similar problem on mains MW radio. Freezing of PC modem on key down. These are all in different rooms of the house and all at least 15 feet away from the rig. The rig is on the ground floor right next to the outside wall where the coax feeder runs out at ground level. Feeder is about 70 feet long and all at ground level until it rises to a multi dipole at 30 feet up, cut for 80/40/20m. Feed point is at least 50 feet from house. The feeder shield is connected directly to the PA ground point and therefore to the mains ground wire. I have no Balun and no RF ground so I guess I've broken all the rules. I suspect RF is on the mains 240V house wiring and can see it on my scope (about 5mV P-P superimposed on the mains). I have a number of things to try but not sure in what order of priority, maybe someone could help, I want to tackle the source of the RFI first, rather than the affected domestic equipment. Here's the list: Make a coax choke balun in the feeder to reduce out of balance currents (quick and cheap) Fit a commercial balun (heavy and pricey) Construct an RF ground in the garden and connect to feeder sheath at entry into the house. (time consuming) Fit a ferrite ring choke to the PA mains lead Build an inductively coupled ATU to avoid connection of feeder sheath to the mains ground. Fit ferrite ring chokes to the affected equipment Fit a proprietary RFI filter to the telephone line (to cure the modem problem) Or maybe I should just go back to QRP hi. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to run the risk of causing RFI to the neighbours. Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft RFI Problems
Hi Guys and many thanks for all the responses both on and offline. I've some excellent advice and plenty of things to try. To recap, problems are on 20m with HI FI and AM radio and on 80m with PC modem. I did a bit fiddling around with the feeder on Sat with some surprising results. Firstly out of curiosity I wound about 8 turns of the coax feeder into a coil (about 6 inches diameter) not at the feed point (didn't fancy getting the ladders out on a wet day) but at ground level (about 30 feet from feed point). The breakthrough on the HI FI on 20m got much worse (seriously worse) but it did at least indicate that the feeder was a big factor. I then remembered that because there was a bit of slack in the feeder where it meets the ground (at the base of the old apple tree) I had taken to coiling up a few feet of it (say only 2 or 3 turns) and hanging it on a branch. So I straightened out the coax so that there were no coil turns at all. This produced a dramatic improvement on 20m, with 100W (CW BTW) the 50HZ hum on the HI FI was almost inaudible. The 80m breakthrough on the PC modem has been reduced by disconnecting a long length of elevated internal telephone line (all on the same circuit) which isn't used any more and by winding the line on a ferrite at the PC, don't know which measure did the trick but I can now use at least 50W on 80m without any probs. Have also re-routed the feeder to come away from the dipoles at 90 degrees for as far as poss before turning back towards the house. The AM radio is still a problem but will try a ferrite on the mains lead. So I have a temporary working solution whilst I try some of the ideas raised on this reflector. I will try coiling the coax at the feed point when I get the time and checking for RF on the rig (touching rig when looking at SWR). Thanks again for the wealth of advice. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 feeding TS520 Tube PA to multi dipole. Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Learning CW
Many thanks for all the encouraging replies I've had about learning CW and hope to meet some of you guys on the air when condx improve. 73's Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft, Coax Balun Does the Trick
Hi folks I'm fairly new to ham radio and a few weeks posted a problem with RFI when using QRO (K1 with amp). Set up was multi dipole fed with about 70 feet of RG58 coax with no RF earth and no balun. Well a few days ago I lowered the antenna and used all the slack to wind about 20 turns of the RG58 onto a piece of 4inch diameter plastic drainpipe (grey) positioned right at the feed point. It looks a bit ugly but has done the trick. I now get no breakthrough on the hi fi and no freezing of the PC modem at 100W on 80, 40 and 20m. 15m is still a problem but since I don't use it much anyway I'll just stick to QRP on that band. The answer was so simple. Thanks for the help. BTW had my first truly QRP (ie both qrp) transatlantic qso last night into CT. The other guy was on a beam with me on my simple dipole at 25 feet. Great fun. 73's Martin Evans M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft, Tuning Knob for K1
Jim wrote: snip === Hello, Fellow Elecrafters: I changed out the main tuning knob on my K1 with a Yaesu FT-100 knob, and I thought I'd report on the project. I looked around for a weighted replacement knob 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 diameter, with the requisite finger dimple. My search led to the Yaesu FT-100 main tuning knob. When I called Vertex to order the knob, the clerk chuckled and right away knew what it was for. He said, For your K2? We've gotten about 1600 orders ... He then proceeded to point out the need for Elecraft to order these knobs in quantity to satisfy the demand. I was afraid the knob would be a bit too big for my K1 (if everybody else is ordering for a K2), but I ordered one anyway. As it turns out, the FT-100 knob is ideal for the K1. The thick rubber ring makes the overall knob diameter just a bit larger than the Elecraft knob, but not too large to obstruct the XIT button. The weight and knurled ring give a nice feel. BTW, the rubber ring will fit on the original Elecraft knob. One problem I encountered is that the hole diameter is just a little under 1/4. You have to drill it out to fit the K1 potentiometer shaft. It's brass (or a similar soft, brass-colored metal), and not a problem using a steel bit in a home drill press. All in all, a nice upgrade for the K1. 73, Jim K5HO snip = Does anyonw know if this knob is available in the UK, and if so where from? Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 - Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: To Amp or not to Amp
As a relative newcomer to ham radio (been licensed for 2 years and SWL for many years) I can't get too excited about the QRO/QRP debate. I spent my first year and a half with QRP only on my precious K1 and knocked up hundreds of contacts including a bit of DX with 5 W and low dipoles, lots of fun and it taught me cw. There certainly is a special buzz about covering hundreds and thousands of miles with a measly 5W, but I also get a buzz (metaphorically of course) from watching valves glow and tuning up my 2x6146 amp to 100W. I confess that most of the time I don't need it but every now and then it comes in handy when conditions are marginal. BTW the amplifier cost me nothing, I had an old sick TS520 and I've modified it to work just as a PA driven by the K1 complete with auto QSK. I enjoy QRP and I enjoy working the old valves, if I had the money I'd enjoy building and operating a solid state amp, if I had the time I'd enjoy knocking together a 1W XTAL controlled qrp rig from the junk box, its all part of the hobby, in fact that's what makes ham radio so special; there are so many different things to dabble in, if you enjoy it do it. If Elecraft want to make an amp fine, maybe they can keep the QRP and the QRO enthusiasts happy, it's all good for the hobby. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 (and qro on the quiet hi) Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: K1 for sale in UK
Hi, guys, I am selling my K1 but don't really know how much to ask for it or how to sell it. I built it myself to a very good standard and it works like a dream, any thoughts. Martin M0KWV Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Antennas in trees
Sorry for the off topic query but a few years ago I saw on this reflector a link to a site which showed a design for a system of two poles and cords which was used to drop a weight over a tree bow and get further up the tree by stages. I cannot use a projectile since there is a house immediately behind. Anybody spotted this design? Thanks Martin M0KWV, K1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ELECRAFT: K2 LCD/Backlight query
Hi Guys, built my K1 about 4 years ago and still performing like new, but now on with my K2 serial No. 6563. I have a few queries on the LCD/backlight installation. I think I understand the manual/errata but just want to make sure since I have seen a few postings on this issue. My backlight assembly has a very loose fitting label on the underside which covers the whole surface and has text on it (part Nos etc) The top side has a thin plastic film which again covers the whole surface. Question: The manual says do not remove the backing from either side of the diffuser. Does this mean just during installation or not at all. My LCD display component has a film on the front glass which according to the manual is peeled off later in construction, is this correct. On the rear side there is a plastic film (silvery grey) stuck to the glass. There are no lines on it (mentioned in the errata). Do I remove this film? Apologies if this has already been covered in previous posts. Really enjoying the build and has coincided with an injury to my Achilles tendon (heel) which has put me off work for 10 weeks in a plaster cast so plenty of time for K2 build! Thanks guys 73s Martin M0KWV K1 1534 K2 6563 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft : Thinking of buying a K2
Hi guys and happy new year to you all. I built a K1 about 3 years ago now (my first rig in fact) and it has been in regular use since. I am more than satisfied with the K1 but feel the need for the big brother to give me more coverage, quicker band switching and SSB capability. I intend to get the basic K2 and add the SSB module at a later stage. Does anyone know the latest situation with shipping to the UK. Last time I had to pay duty and VAT. 73's, Martin M0KWV Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. *** -- Scanned by e:scan V3 (powered by Postini) -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Customs duty for elecraft kits to UK
Many thanks to the guys who replied on this one. I hope to place my K2 order today. Martin M0KWV Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. *** -- Scanned by e:scan V3 (powered by Postini) -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft. G5RV Question
Hi Guys, my main rig is a K1 feeding a multi dipole for 80/40/20 with no ATU. I am thinking of taking down the dipoles and trying a full size G5RV. Questions: Will the KAT1 ATU tune up on all bands from 80-15m I will be using about 80 feet of 50ohm coax to get from the matching section to the rig, am I going to get big losses in the coax due to the high SWR on most bands? The beauty of the G5RV is that it can be fed with coax but with only 5W I don't want to waste all the power in the feeder. I intend to build the G5RV myself (like all of my antennas), how accurate does the length of the matching section have to be? does it need tuning in some way. Can I use any insulated wire for the open wire section? The multi dipoles have been great performers but it's a lot of wire up there and very heavy, I thought that with the G5RV being one single top wire it will be lighter and I may be able to get it higher. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Z Match tuner
Hi Guys, I have moved my shack to an upstairs bedroom and consequentially I will need to feed my 130 feet wire at the end rather than at the centre (it was a dipole fed with coax). I want to work 80/40/20m. I have made some open wire feeder (about 15 feet) to get me from the chimney to the bedroom and have left one end of the open wire feeder open circuit. I think I am making a Zepp antenna. Now to match this arrangement to my K1 on the above bands, I want to build a tuner. I have just been looking at the design on this web site (http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/ldbutler/SingleCoilZMatch.htm) and it looks just the ticket. It is suitable for balanced lines and would allow QRO up to 100W in the future. Before I commence construction I just want to check that it will match the very high Z of an end fed half wave wire. Any thoughts. Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: Z Match Tuner and K1
Hi folks, first thanks to the guys who responded to my previous query on the Z match. Well I built the thing and it works (the one shown on this site http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/ldbutler/SingleCoilZMatch.htm). But here are some questions for you experts: I am using a 130 feet end fed wire with a counterpoise (not sure how long it is) and have managed a reasonable match (1.5 or less SWR) on 80/40/30/20. The tuning is very sharp and I will be looking for slow motion drives for the variable caps. My main query is what is the best procedure for finding the match, it's been a bit hit and miss so far. I think the best way is first set both caps for best rx, then with the K1 set for 5W, key the K1 adjust the main tuning cap for max output (measured by my power/swr meter between the K1 and the tuner) , then adjust the other cap for minimum SWR, then back to the main tuning cap for max power and so on. Have I got this right? I seem to get close with this technique but it doesn't always find the right settings and I spend many minutes trying this and that (and heating up the K1 output!). Also quite often the power and K1 current draw shoots right up (up to 2 amps) and at other times the K1 output seems to drop (is this the K1 protecting itself due to high SWR?). Eventually I will get some vernier drives and make a note of the exact settings but maybe I'm not using the best technique. This is the first tuner I have built so I'm feeling my way a bit. Any hints would be most appreciated. 73's Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: K1 current draw
snip I have noted that the current drain is a little higher than the spec says so would like to know what other K1’s are drawing in real life Mine on Rx is Ok at about 70mA with the backlight option fitted and set to high brightness On TX it’s a little high ( I think) 40m 5W @ 14v Supply Current =1.18Amps 40m 2W @ 14v SupplyCurrent = 760mA snip Paul, the current draw at 5W is a little high but nothing to worry about. The current on my K1 varies around the one amp mark depending on the exact supply voltage and the SWR it is seeing. If you are using the KAT1 and it matches your wire perfectly ie 1:1 SWR then the current should be 900mA at 14V. I use an external ATU and because I don't always take the trouble to match my wire perfectly the current creeps up above one amp for 5 Watts out. For most CW speeds I don't think the output transistor is bothered about a little more collector current, just don't leave the key down for long periods. If you just feel the side of the K1 case where the output transistor is bolted to (the case is the heat sink) you can feel if it is getting warm, most of the time I can barely sense any change in temp. One other thing to note is that if using an external tuner and the K1 sees a high SWR when you are tuning, I think it reduces it's output to protect itself and often I need to switch it off and on again after tuning to reset the K1brain otherwise it gets confused. It's not a problem. The K1 is my first and only rig and I love it. Hope you enjoy yours too. I'm often on 80m around 3558 in the evenings and I'll look out for you. Don't worry about the cw speed, I'll slow down to whatever you are comfortable with. 73's Martin M0KWV K1 #1534 Why not take a look at our Web site? http://www.simoncarves.com * The information in this email and any attachments may contain privileged and/or confidential information intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed. If the reader of this email is not the intended addressee, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify me by telephone or email and delete all copies immediately. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft: K2/100 for sale, UK
Hello everyone, I have decided reluctantly to sell my beloved K2 and concentrate on DSLR video (my other passion). I need the money for a lens! Here is the info: K2 serial No. 06563 KPA100 KSB2 K160RX £720 + carriage + insurance K2 is approx 4-5 years old, I can find the exact purchase date if necessary. Excellent condition. Main K2 and all add-ons built by myself to a high standard (I am a professional electrical engineer). I have built kits for over 30 years so know a bit about soldering. Everything in full working order and fully aligned. Everything worked fine first time and there have been no faults during 5 years usage. Full power on all bands and filters set up for CW. This has been my main rig for the last few years on CW, PSK31 and SSB. Would consider selling the K2 barefoot if necessary. Any test welcomed. I am in NW England. E-mail me for a bunch of high res photos and any other info you need. Elecraft has given me a whole load of fun over the last few years and I wish them every success in the future. Martin Evans M0KWV martinevans718 at gmail dot com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
