Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread Robert von Knobloch
Andy Pugh wrote:

 It should conventionally be C (A is parallel to X, B is parallel to
 Y, C is parallel to Z)
 
 You control which axes are enabled with
 COORDINATES = XYZA
 in the INI file. If you want to start using C then you would need to
 edit that to XYZC, but to also add 2 more axes and alter the HAL file
 to send axis.5 values to the stepper motor. I think you are probably
 better staying with the XYZA configuration (it means all your G-code
 continues to work).
 

Yes, it should be C, but the problem is that EMC won't run with B or C,
only 'A' (unless I've messee up the 'ini' somehow, but I can't see it :-)

 If you want to stop changes in A value moving the tool in the preview
 display then all you need to do is edit the INI file GEOMETRY setting.
 That probably says XYZA. Change that to just XYZ and the A movements
 will not be shown.

But then the 'A' word doesn't move the chuck either. I would like just
to get the display sensible, leaving the mechanism the same. (OK - I
don't care if I have to change the 'A' word to 'C' words, I write new
code for each project anyway.)

I need the machine right now. When I'm finished, I will make a new
partition and install the newest version. Maybe there will be some
enlightenment?

Thanks for your suggestions anyway.

Cheers,

Robert

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Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 08:05, Robert von Knobloch b...@engelking.de wrote:

 That probably says XYZA. Change that to just XYZ and the A movements
 will not be shown.

 But then the 'A' word doesn't move the chuck either. I would like just
 to get the display sensible, leaving the mechanism the same.

This is what the GEOMETRY setting does. It is separate from the
COORDINATES setting.

There are 3 semi-related settings in the INI file in the newer
versions of EMC2 (your version might not use all of them)

[TRAJ]AXES: This sets how far up the joints list we can go. This is
the axis.N pins in HAL. where the X-word in G-code is linked to
axis.0 and the W-word to axis.8. For reference the A-word controls
axis.3 and C controls axis.5. If you want to use the C-word then you
need to link axis.5 and that requires AXES=6. This hard link between
G-code and joint numbers is likely to be removed in the future.

[TRAJ]COORDINATES specifies which axis names are valid in the G-code.

[DISPLAY]GEOMETRY controls the preview display.

So, for your machine, using A you would have AXES=4, COORDINATES=XYZA
and GEOMETRY=XYZ
Using C would be AXES=6, COORDINATES=XYZC and GEOMETRY=XYZC (or maybe
CXYZ). This would also require HAL changes.

The full INI file docs for the current version are here:
http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/html/config_ini_config.html
The corresponding doc for what I suspect is your version is:
http://www.linuxcnc.org/docview/2.2/html/config_ini_config.html

It is perfectly possible to upgrade EMC2 without upgrading Ubuntu,
maybe even through the package manager.

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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread Mark Wendt
On 10/04/2011 01:31 PM, gene heskett wrote:
 FWIW, I woke up this morning and realized that I had now completed 77 trips
 of this planet around its star.

 Someone said another year older  wiser and I replied that the wiser part
 was debatable. ;-)

 Am I still the official oldest fart here?, I've forgotten.  That too, goes
 with the years. :(

 Cheers, Gene

Well, Happy Birthday Gene, and wishing you many more!

Mark


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Re: [Emc-users] problem with genserkins

2011-10-05 Thread Francesca Sca


andy pugh wrote:

Looking at the source-code that error indicates that the inversion of
the matrix has failed.
It might mean that your DH parameters are in some way inconsistent, or
possibly just that the motor position is ambiguous.

Is that the actual error message? All those %f entries should be
printing out as joint positions.


I don't know if this is the actual error. I have the same problem also with 
puma560 configuration that uses genserkins! In puma example the d-h parameters 
are correct then I don't think that the parameters are the problem. What else 
could be?
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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread Erik Christiansen
On 04.10.11 14:22, Peter Blodow wrote:
 andy pugh schrieb:
  http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fehlerstromschutzschalter

 Thanks, Andy, of course I know these. I have experienced a lot of 
 unnecessary trouble caused by this safety switch during my time as a 
 facility manager as well as at home (freezer connected to the same line 
 as the kitchen appliances, protected by such a goody, us being on 
 holidays, and a lightning striking nearby)...

Peter, when specifying house wiring to my electriciain, I ensured that
in the kitchen, only the the counter-top outlets were in the ELCB (Earth
Leakage Circuit Breaker) circuit. The refrigerator's outlet was
explicitly excluded, to avoid the problem that you have experienced.

And yes, probably every country can add to the name confusion.

Erik

-- 
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- William Shakespeare, Julius Caesar



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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 11:47, Erik Christiansen dva...@internode.on.net wrote:

 Peter, when specifying house wiring to my electriciain, I ensured that
 in the kitchen, only the the counter-top outlets were in the ELCB

No choice in the UK.

It used to be that you had to have the sockets on an RCD and the
lights not on an RCD (it being assumed that almost nobody is
electrocuted by a light fitting, but falling down the stairs in the
dark when the washing machine needs new brushes is a problem)

Now the regs say that there should be two RCDs with the lights and
sockets split between them.

This article here has an interesting review of the situation with
commercial premises, which I think could reasonably be extended to
machine tools which don't play well with earth leakage detection.
http://www.electricalreview.co.uk/features/117892/17th_Edition_-_To_RCD_or_not_RCD%3F.html
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Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread Robert von Knobloch
Andy Pugh wrote:
 This is what the GEOMETRY setting does. It is separate from the
 COORDINATES setting.

Yes, just found this out. Memory is not what it was. I used stepconf a
few years ago to create the current 'ini' file; unfortunately is seems
to have removed a lot of (non-used) parameters, which is a shame because
I might have spotted this parameter faster.

 It is perfectly possible to upgrade EMC2 without upgrading Ubuntu,
 maybe even through the package manager.

Anyway I have added a second partition and installed the lastest version
on it. This way, the 'old' machine is still available as a boot option.
Migrating the 'ini'  'hal' files was easy - just copied noting some
newer parameters and reading the appropriate book.

I tried a config (and hal) for 'XYZC', but noticed that EMC requires 6
[AXIS x] sections. What do I put in the non-existent [3  4] AXIS
sections to keep them quiet?
I tried just copying axis 3 [Z] into 4  5 but got 'following error on
axis4 (or similar).

Thanks for your help,

Robert

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Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 13:49, Robert von Knobloch b...@engelking.de wrote:

 I tried just copying axis 3 [Z] into 4  5 but got 'following error on
 axis4 (or similar).

That's the simplest approach, but you need to make sure that EMC2
isn't trying to home the non-existent axes.
Set home search vel to 0 and delete the homing sequence for those
axes. (I actually think that you can get away with just the [AXIS_N]
headers with no content, but you would need to test that)

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[Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
I have a requirement for a small and simple and cheap DC motor H-bridge.
Input will be +/-10V (or 0-10, or +/-5) from an existing controller
(actually an engine dyno) and the output needs to drive a 12V DC motor
from a 12V supply at a few amps
(it's a windscreen wiper motor).

Does anyone know of a suitable product?

Cheap would be good.

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread sam sokolik
I was going to recommend something like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Motion-Controls-Brush-Type-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-/170692654137?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item27be133439

but it looks like your requirement of 12v supply is below the minimum of 
the few amc drives I looked at (20v)

sam

On 10/5/2011 8:03 AM, andy pugh wrote:
 I have a requirement for a small and simple and cheap DC motor H-bridge.
 Input will be +/-10V (or 0-10, or +/-5) from an existing controller
 (actually an engine dyno) and the output needs to drive a 12V DC motor
 from a 12V supply at a few amps
 (it's a windscreen wiper motor).

 Does anyone know of a suitable product?

 Cheap would be good.


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 14:27, sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Motion-Controls-Brush-Type-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-/170692654137?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item27be133439

Close, but this needs to be something that we can buy new, and in
small quantities. (I should perhaps have said that this is for an
application at work)


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Jan de Kruyf
How is your solder iron:

L292 SWITCH MODE DRIVER FOR DC MOTORS / 2A / 36V

My local supplier still has them listed. It is basically a torque
controller, by it self. You need to put another opamp in front to get speed
control.

Works very well

j.

On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 3:34 PM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 5 October 2011 14:27, sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:

 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Advanced-Motion-Controls-Brush-Type-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-/170692654137?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item27be133439

 Close, but this needs to be something that we can buy new, and in
 small quantities. (I should perhaps have said that this is for an
 application at work)


 --
 atp
 Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise
 men


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 14:59, Jan de Kruyf jan.de.kr...@gmail.com wrote:

 L292 SWITCH MODE DRIVER FOR DC MOTORS / 2A / 36V

Almost perfect, but 18V minimum supply voltage..

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread sam sokolik
maybe a push pull audio amplifier ic or even a car audio amp?  (thinking 
outside the box)

On 10/5/2011 9:08 AM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 5 October 2011 14:59, Jan de Kruyfjan.de.kr...@gmail.com  wrote:

 L292 SWITCH MODE DRIVER FOR DC MOTORS / 2A / 36V
 Almost perfect, but 18V minimum supply voltage..


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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread gene heskett
On Wednesday, October 05, 2011 10:29:11 AM Mark Wendt did opine:

 On 10/04/2011 01:31 PM, gene heskett wrote:
  FWIW, I woke up this morning and realized that I had now completed 77
  trips of this planet around its star.
  
  Someone said another year older  wiser and I replied that the wiser
  part was debatable. ;-)
  
  Am I still the official oldest fart here?, I've forgotten.  That too,
  goes with the years. :(
  
  Cheers, Gene
 
 Well, Happy Birthday Gene, and wishing you many more!
 
 Mark
 
Thanks Mark.  I hope so too.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
One of the worst of my many faults is that I'm too critical of myself.

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Edward Bernard
Pololu has a number of motor drivers that could work for you: 
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/94. They are 0-3.3 V but I'm sure you 
can scale your voltage to suit.

Best regards,
Greg





From: andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC) emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 8:03 AM
Subject: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

I have a requirement for a small and simple and cheap DC motor H-bridge.
Input will be +/-10V (or 0-10, or +/-5) from an existing controller
(actually an engine dyno) and the output needs to drive a 12V DC motor
from a 12V supply at a few amps
(it's a windscreen wiper motor).

Does anyone know of a suitable product?

Cheap would be good.

-- 
atp
Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men

--
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Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread gene heskett
On Wednesday, October 05, 2011 10:32:17 AM andy pugh did opine:

 On 5 October 2011 13:49, Robert von Knobloch b...@engelking.de wrote:
  I tried just copying axis 3 [Z] into 4  5 but got 'following error on
  axis4 (or similar).
 
 That's the simplest approach, but you need to make sure that EMC2
 isn't trying to home the non-existent axes.
 Set home search vel to 0 and delete the homing sequence for those
 axes. (I actually think that you can get away with just the [AXIS_N]
 headers with no content, but you would need to test that)

IIRC that is how it did work in a previous version.  I might even have an 
old config tree laying around that shows that.  Probably about 2.2.8, so 
its old.  I took my table apart and milled an air groove so that I could 
inject air to reduce the turning friction of pulling it down tight enough 
to stop the backlash, but got stuck looking for a method to get an air hose 
actually connected, and an emc controlled air valve that I could energize 
when emc wanted to move the table, and its been sitting there, waiting for 
inspiration for about 2 years now.  Very cheap 4 grizzly table.  I'd like 
to find a better one and throw money at it.  This one doesn't even have a 
#2 morse socket in the center.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If you think last Tuesday was a drag, wait till you see what happens 
tomorrow!

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Jan de Kruyf
So limit the input to your speed- amp to the equivalent of 12 V back-emf.
You might need some headroom in any case to get your dynamics right.

The magnets will only demagnetize at a certain current, that this thing will
never give you anyway, unless its broken and then also at 12 V it might
stuff them if the rotor is locked.

j.


On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 4:08 PM, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 5 October 2011 14:59, Jan de Kruyf jan.de.kr...@gmail.com wrote:

  L292 SWITCH MODE DRIVER FOR DC MOTORS / 2A / 36V

 Almost perfect, but 18V minimum supply voltage..

 --
 atp
 Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise
 men


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread dave
On Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:20:08 -0500
sam sokolik sa...@empirescreen.com wrote:

 maybe a push pull audio amplifier ic or even a car audio amp?
 (thinking outside the box)
 
 On 10/5/2011 9:08 AM, andy pugh wrote:
  On 5 October 2011 14:59, Jan de Kruyfjan.de.kr...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  L292 SWITCH MODE DRIVER FOR DC MOTORS / 2A / 36V
  Almost perfect, but 18V minimum supply voltage..
 
 
National used to make a 25 V 10 A op amp which might do the job. 
Been too long can't remember the number. 

HTH
Dave
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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread Mark Cason
On 10/05/2011 07:21 AM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 5 October 2011 11:47, Erik Christiansendva...@internode.on.net  wrote:

 Peter, when specifying house wiring to my electriciain, I ensured that
 in the kitchen, only the the counter-top outlets were in the ELCB
 No choice in the UK.

 It used to be that you had to have the sockets on an RCD and the
 lights not on an RCD (it being assumed that almost nobody is
 electrocuted by a light fitting, but falling down the stairs in the
 dark when the washing machine needs new brushes is a problem)

 Now the regs say that there should be two RCDs with the lights and
 sockets split between them.

 This article here has an interesting review of the situation with
 commercial premises, which I think could reasonably be extended to
 machine tools which don't play well with earth leakage detection.
 http://www.electricalreview.co.uk/features/117892/17th_Edition_-_To_RCD_or_not_RCD%3F.html
   I think that this part should solve some problems in an industrial 
setting:

   Exceptions are permitted where:  the use of socket outlets is under 
the supervision of someone skilled or instructed or if they are 
specifically labelled or identified for a particular item of equipment.

   In my little shop here at home, I have a 200 amp 40 breaker panel, 
and I feed each piece of equipment with it's own dedicated circuit.  I 
have this nice little label maker that prints out little white labels, 
and I stick them on each outlet, identifying what breaker controls it.

   Writing a tag, specifying how the outlet is connected, shouldn't be 
any different.  And, having everyone in your shop sign a piece of paper 
that is INSTRUCTING them that the outlet shouldn't be used for 
anything other than it's intended purpose, should suffice.

   Here in the US, each city has it's own little quirks, and it's own 
Modifications to the NEC (National Electrical Code).  In a house, in 
many jurisdictions, high current items like a refrigerator, or a washing 
machine are supposed to be on a dedicated circuit.  For a washing 
machine, a ground fault plug is installed at that location, which keeps 
it separate from everything else.  A refrigerator, generally doesn't get 
a GFCI, it supposed to get a single socket (round) outlet, to keep it 
from being used for anything else.  It's far more hazardous to move a 
refrigerator out of it's hole (tipping hazard), to reset a GFCI, than 
the protection the GFCI is affording. I know that most houses, that 
weren't built in the last decade, are not wired up like this.  I'm 
referring to what current codes require.

   I live out in the country, and in the state I live in, there are no 
specific codes that I have to follow.  I'm not a licensed electrician, 
but I've been working with electricity for most of my life.  I follow 
the NEC, and I have everything in my shop run in conduit.  I use 
twist-lock plugs on all my machines, to keep anybody coming into my 
shop, from unplugging something (say, my air compressor which is 220v 
15A) and plugging in a extension cord.  My insurance company was quite 
impressed with my wiring, My agent said that he saw professionally 
installed wiring that wasn't anywhere near as good, and wished that all 
of his clients shops were wired like mine.

PS. is is supposed to be spelled labelled in the UK?

-- 
-Mark
Ne M'oubliez   ---Family Motto
Hope for the best, plan for the worst   ---Personal Motto


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 15:32, Edward Bernard yankeelena2...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Pololu has a number of motor drivers that could work for you: 
 http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/94. They are 0-3.3 V but I'm sure you 
 can scale your voltage to suit.

I found them, but I couldn't see how to reverse the motor. Scaling the
voltage (and making it 0 - 5V) is easy, but then it is difficult to
see how to drive the motor in both directions.

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 15:50, Jan de Kruyf jan.de.kr...@gmail.com wrote:

 Almost perfect, but 18V minimum supply voltage..

 So limit the input to your speed- amp to the equivalent of 12 V back-emf.
 You might need some headroom in any case to get your dynamics right.

The problem is that we only have a 12V supply.

Let me explain in full:

The application is to control a butterfly valve mounted in the exhaust
of an engine to emulate the back-pressure from the production system
including cat and particulate filter.
The valve and motor (12V) already exist.
The Dyno controller can operate the valve in closed-loop control (it
is already controlling about 7 other process variables). It can output
a voltage of up to +/- 11V and a current of +-25mA, but this is on a
single wire which must be able to drive the valve actuator in either
direction.
The only power in the cell is 12V, 240V and 380V 3P.

I have a feeling that a set of back-to-back power transistors could do
the job linearly, at the expense of getting a bit hot, but an existing
commercial solution would be best.

The problem with the power-amp ideas is that that I don't see how that
would drive the motor in the reverse direction, I think an H-bridge is
needed. (unless we were to hold one terminal of the motor at 6V, and
drive the other to 0V and 12V, I suppose)

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Wed, 2011-10-05 at 16:25 +0100, andy pugh wrote:
 On 5 October 2011 15:32, Edward Bernard yankeelena2...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
  Pololu has a number of motor drivers that could work for you:
 http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/94. They are 0-3.3 V but I'm
 sure you can scale your voltage to suit.
 
 I found them, but I couldn't see how to reverse the motor. Scaling the
 voltage (and making it 0 - 5V) is easy, but then it is difficult to
 see how to drive the motor in both directions.
 
A robotics company may have what you need. I seem to recall the fuse for
a windshield wiper is around 15A, so you may need something on the
largesh side. I very briefly looked at Solarbotics and found:
http://www.solarbotics.com/products/50115/ 

but they have a lot more. Sparkfun.com may have something too.

-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Gantry machine with motorised chuck

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 15:41, gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 got stuck looking for a method to get an air hose
 actually connected, and an emc controlled air valve that I could energize
 when emc wanted to move the table,

I believe that support for locking rotaries has been introduced while
you have been waiting, so at least half the problem should have
disappeared.

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 16:38, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:

 A robotics company may have what you need. I seem to recall the fuse for
 a windshield wiper is around 15A, so you may need something on the
 largesh side. I very briefly looked at Solarbotics and found:
 http://www.solarbotics.com/products/50115/

That looks workable. Using 0 to 5V with 2.5V as stop scares me
slightly, but I think we have a 12V supply that is only live when the
dyno is on, so it is probably usable.

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread Dave
On 10/5/2011 11:14 AM, Mark Cason wrote:
 I live out in the country, and in the state I live in, there are no
 specific codes that I have to follow.  I'm not a licensed electrician,
 but I've been working with electricity for most of my life.  I follow
 the NEC, and I have everything in my shop run in conduit.

I live out in the country also - Midwest USA - and there are basically 
no enforced electrical codes here if you do it yourself.
Contractors are suppose to get permits which can trigger inspections, 
but oftentimes they do work without permits.
I have seen some really bad wiring jobs.   It is surprising that more 
buildings do not burn down from poor wiring around here.
The guy that formerly owned my house was supposedly an electrician.   I 
did some remodeling in the bathroom and ended up ripping out all of the 
walls since they were poorly constructed and
I found two electrical junction boxes behind the walls that were covered 
over!  It took only a few hours of rewiring to eliminate the boxes.   
The previous owner was simply lazy and sloppy.
Dave



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[Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Roland Jollivet
On 5 October 2011 17:50, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 On 5 October 2011 16:38, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:

  A robotics company may have what you need. I seem to recall the fuse for
  a windshield wiper is around 15A, so you may need something on the
  largesh side. I very briefly looked at Solarbotics and found:
  http://www.solarbotics.com/products/50115/

 That looks workable. Using 0 to 5V with 2.5V as stop scares me
 slightly, but I think we have a 12V supply that is only live when the
 dyno is on, so it is probably usable.


Have a look at this. There are a few devices that may be suitable as part of
the Arduino pluggables, which you should be able to obtain locally.

http://netram.co.za/Mechanical/50A-PWM-H-Bridge.html

Regards
Roland
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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Mark Cason
On 10/05/2011 10:25 AM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 5 October 2011 15:32, Edward Bernardyankeelena2...@yahoo.com  wrote:
 Pololu has a number of motor drivers that could work for you: 
 http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/94. They are 0-3.3 V but I'm sure you 
 can scale your voltage to suit.
 I found them, but I couldn't see how to reverse the motor. Scaling the
 voltage (and making it 0 - 5V) is easy, but then it is difficult to
 see how to drive the motor in both directions.

   A bit overkill, but something like this should work:
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/Sabertooth2X25.htm?gclid=CMbG6p_70asCFcTBKgodOX3bXQ


-- 
-Mark

Ne M'oubliez   ---Family Motto
Hope for the best, plan for the worst   ---Personal Motto


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Lawrence Glaister
On Wed, 2011-10-05 at 14:03 +0100, andy pugh wrote:
 I have a requirement for a small and simple and cheap DC motor H-bridge.
 Input will be +/-10V (or 0-10, or +/-5) from an existing controller
 (actually an engine dyno) and the output needs to drive a 12V DC motor
 from a 12V supply at a few amps
 (it's a windscreen wiper motor).
 
 Does anyone know of a suitable product?
 
 Cheap would be good.
 
Hi Andy,
You could use the output stage of this project I designed.
Very few parts needed, but the power op amp is expensive.
I was able to get a few as samples for the prototypes.
I used a split supply to make the servo board cheaper (its a half
bridge), and the common power supply more complicated. For a wiper
motor, a supply of +-18v  is very easy to make by taking a standard
analog 12v supply and replacing the 2 diode full wave rectifier with a
bridge and adding another filter cap for the negative rail. By the way,
I was using car heater fan motors as brushed servo motors by adding an
encoder.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/swstuff/dspic-servo.html

cheers,
Lawrence VE7IT


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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Cheap VFD

2011-10-05 Thread gene heskett
On Wednesday, October 05, 2011 03:10:00 PM Dave did opine:

 On 10/5/2011 11:14 AM, Mark Cason wrote:
  I live out in the country, and in the state I live in, there are no
  specific codes that I have to follow.  I'm not a licensed electrician,
  but I've been working with electricity for most of my life.  I follow
  the NEC, and I have everything in my shop run in conduit.
 
 I live out in the country also - Midwest USA - and there are basically
 no enforced electrical codes here if you do it yourself.
 Contractors are suppose to get permits which can trigger inspections,
 but oftentimes they do work without permits.
 I have seen some really bad wiring jobs.   It is surprising that more
 buildings do not burn down from poor wiring around here.
 The guy that formerly owned my house was supposedly an electrician.   I
 did some remodeling in the bathroom and ended up ripping out all of the
 walls since they were poorly constructed and
 I found two electrical junction boxes behind the walls that were covered
 over!  It took only a few hours of rewiring to eliminate the boxes.
 The previous owner was simply lazy and sloppy.
 Dave

Been there, done that Dave, this house is a National Homes package.  Very 
little that I have opened up that I didn't wind up ripping out that whole 
wall  starting all over again.  One of the things I found when I was 
remodeling the 'music room' which was in fact the original garage space, 
converted at build time on site to living space, was a copper waterline, 
capped off  buried in the wall, where I assume the original plan had a 
cold water only utility sink, or more likely just a wall faucet, installed 
in the garage.  A trip to town for a frost-free, some more copper and a few 
sweat fittings and I now have a faucet on the front of the house, to hook 
up whatever to.  Why it wasn't done in the first place is beyond me because 
its 20x handier than the one on the back of the house that I had to move 
about 20 feet when we put a _cheaply built_ deck on the back of the house 
20 years ago.  Some folks would cut their nose off for a mosquito bites 
worth of money.  Boggles my mind.

Some of the things I've said about the guy that built this neighborhood 
should have him doing about 19,000 rpm in his grave.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
No problem is so formidable that you can't walk away from it.
 -- C. Schulz

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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread gene heskett
On Wednesday, October 05, 2011 03:25:52 PM Roland Jollivet did opine:

 On 5 October 2011 17:50, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:
  On 5 October 2011 16:38, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com 
wrote:
   A robotics company may have what you need. I seem to recall the fuse
   for a windshield wiper is around 15A, so you may need something on
   the largesh side. I very briefly looked at Solarbotics and found:
   http://www.solarbotics.com/products/50115/
  
  That looks workable. Using 0 to 5V with 2.5V as stop scares me
  slightly, but I think we have a 12V supply that is only live when the
  dyno is on, so it is probably usable.
 
 Have a look at this. There are a few devices that may be suitable as
 part of the Arduino pluggables, which you should be able to obtain
 locally.
 
 http://netram.co.za/Mechanical/50A-PWM-H-Bridge.html
 
No readily available reverse though.  And I believe that is needed here?

 Regards
 Roland
 
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Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
The best way to keep your friends is not to give them away.

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Re: [Emc-users] problem with genserkins

2011-10-05 Thread andy pugh
On 5 October 2011 10:59, Francesca Sca fancy_...@yahoo.it wrote:

 I don't know if this is the actual error. I have the same problem also with 
 puma560 configuration that uses genserkins! In puma example the d-h 
 parameters are correct then I don't think that the parameters are the 
 problem. What else could be?

I tried the puma560 config and it appeared to work for me.
Are you running in a sim or a realtime installation? What version of EMC2?

-- 
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[Emc-users] Joypad pendant, hal_input errors

2011-10-05 Thread John A. Stewart
Hi all;

After reading some of the messages on this list, I went out and  
purchased a wired joypad; it is giving me the following messages when  
I run:

halcmd
loadusr hal_input -KRAL GASIA

Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_48
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_49
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_50
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_51
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_52
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_53
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_54
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_55
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_56
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_57
Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_58

Any idea what's happening here?

I got a wired joypad because I'm always finding batteries dead when I  
come to use things - maybe I shoulda got the bluetooth one!

Thanks; JohnS




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Re: [Emc-users] Joypad pendant, hal_input errors

2011-10-05 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
On Oct 5, 2011, at 16:18 , John A. Stewart wrote:

 Hi all;
 
 After reading some of the messages on this list, I went out and  
 purchased a wired joypad; it is giving me the following messages when  
 I run:
 
 halcmd
 loadusr hal_input -KRAL GASIA
 
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_48
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_49
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_50
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_51
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_52
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_53
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_54
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_55
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_56
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_57
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_58
 
 Any idea what's happening here?


What device is this, exactly?

My first guess is that the device reports fewer ABS components than it actually 
has, and hal_input is rejecting events from the extra ones.  Does the device 
seem to be working (you can look at its pins with halmeter or 'halcmd show')?

What do you see if you install the input-utils package and inspect the device 
with lsinput and input-events?  Maybe also try the evtest program, from the 
package by the same name.


-- 
Sebastian Kuzminsky


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Re: [Emc-users] Joypad pendant, hal_input errors

2011-10-05 Thread John A. Stewart
Hi Sebastian;

Thanks for the reply, and the ideas. I'm new to EMC, so there is a lot  
to figure out still.

 What device is this, exactly?

lsinput:

/dev/input/event3
bustype : BUS_USB
vendor  : 0x54c
product : 0x268
version : 273
name: GASIA CORP. PLAYSTATION(R)3 Cont
phys: usb-:00:1d.2-2/input0
uniq: 
bits ev : EV_SYN EV_KEY EV_ABS EV_MSC

Here is the URL for the product:
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/intec-inc-intec-2-pack-wired-controller-playstation-3-g7884/10156935.aspx?path=c2baa19281ba991ddb5a5d020e17ab9ben02

(if that does not work, it is the Intec 2 pack wired controller,   
WebID:  10156935)

 Does the device seem to be working (you can look at its pins with  
 halmeter or 'halcmd show')?

Yes, the halmeter did work for at least one button input - I'm still  
figuring out how best to run these programs so I know what to look for.

I have modified the hal_input program to just not print out the  
error message; but, if I have this issue, I wonder how many others  
might, too?

I'll report back on progress; maybe it will help others. Also, any  
debugging you (or anyone else) wants me to do, just ask.

Thanks;

JohnS.



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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread noel
Have a look at :  http://www.encodergeek.com/Xavien_Amplifier.html
The one in the person's hand.

I have several driving brushed motors on my Bridgeport Series II, at 24v.
Look to the LMD18200.  A really good IC.


Noel.

-Original Message-
From: andy pugh [mailto:bodge...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 6:04 AM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

I have a requirement for a small and simple and cheap DC motor H-bridge.
Input will be +/-10V (or 0-10, or +/-5) from an existing controller
(actually an engine dyno) and the output needs to drive a 12V DC motor from
a 12V supply at a few amps (it's a windscreen wiper motor).

Does anyone know of a suitable product?

Cheap would be good.

--
atp
Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise
men


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread cogoman
On 10/05/2011 11:36 AM, emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net wrote:
 The problem with the power-amp ideas is that that I don't see how that
 would drive the motor in the reverse direction, I think an H-bridge is
 needed. (unless we were to hold one terminal of the motor at 6V, and
 drive the other to 0V and 12V, I suppose)
You can probably find a better solution in a motor driver kit, but if 
you were to try the car amplifier method, as long as both *inverting* 
and *non-inverting* inputs are brought out to use, it's doable.   You 
rig up both amplifiers as unity gain inverters, and use the output of 
one amp to drive the inverting input of the other.  You have to figure 
out how to make the +-11V input at 0 volts cause the first amplifier to 
drive +6 volts (or half of the supply voltage) and reference the other 
inverting amplifier to half the supply voltage.

BTW... does anyone know of a good ASCII drawing program, so I can easily 
make drawing that won't get scrubbed by the list software?

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Re: [Emc-users] Joypad pendant, hal_input errors

2011-10-05 Thread Przemek Klosowski
On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Sebastian Kuzminsky s...@highlab.com wrote:

 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_48
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_49

That's because the EMC HID driver hal_input doesn't handle all data
from your USB device.

The regular kernel HID driver defines the EV_ABS events with codes
(ABS_xxx) up to 63 (0x3f), but hal_input only handles what is defined
in lib/python/linux_event.py, where the highest event is ABS_MISC
(0x28 or decimal 40), and throws an error when your USB device sends
ABS_MT_TOUCH_MAJOR (code 0x30 or decimal 48) and higher.

The Linux kernel driver uses codes defined in
/usr/include/linux/input.h, so linux_event.py should be modified to
match it; I enclose a patch that Sebastian can apply directly. I don't
have the check-in privileges in the EMC2 git repo, so perhaps the
original author of linux_event.py (Jeff Epler) or someone else could
apply it there.


emc-linux_event.py-patch
Description: Binary data
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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Kent A. Reed
On 10/5/2011 11:50 PM, cogoman wrote:
 ...
 BTW... does anyone know of a good ASCII drawing program, so I can easily
 make drawing that won't get scrubbed by the list software?

Cogoman:

A quick Google search suggests JavE might suit.

It's just my two-cents worth, but I think you'd be better off just using 
the drawing tool you like best and placing a png or pdf file of the 
result in one of the file-drops used already by list members.

Regards,
Kent




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Re: [Emc-users] Joypad pendant, hal_input errors

2011-10-05 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
On 10/05/2011 10:39 PM, Przemek Klosowski wrote:
 On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 6:45 PM, Sebastian Kuzminskys...@highlab.com  wrote:

 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_48
 Unexpected event EV_ABS ABS_49
 That's because the EMC HID driver hal_input doesn't handle all data
 from your USB device.

 The regular kernel HID driver defines the EV_ABS events with codes
 (ABS_xxx) up to 63 (0x3f), but hal_input only handles what is defined
 in lib/python/linux_event.py, where the highest event is ABS_MISC
 (0x28 or decimal 40), and throws an error when your USB device sends
 ABS_MT_TOUCH_MAJOR (code 0x30 or decimal 48) and higher.

 The Linux kernel driver uses codes defined in
 /usr/include/linux/input.h, so linux_event.py should be modified to
 match it; I enclose a patch that Sebastian can apply directly. I don't
 have the check-in privileges in the EMC2 git repo, so perhaps the
 original author of linux_event.py (Jeff Epler) or someone else could
 apply it there.

Thank you Przemek!

Wow, that's a lot of happy trigger buttons!

I applied it, but reordered BTN_TOOL_QUADTAP to be in sequential order 
with the rest of the BTNs.

My USB jogpad works fine after the patch (it also worked fine before the 
patch).

John, if you pull the 2.4 branch now you should get Przemek's fix.  Or 
if you wait 30 minutes and install the buildbot debs.

I'll try to merge this into the 2.5 branch and master tonight.


Oh yeah, one more thing: the evtest program is super handy for debugging 
these kinds of devices.


-- 
Sebastian Kuzminsky


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Re: [Emc-users] Simple DC motor controller

2011-10-05 Thread Przemek Klosowski
On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 11:50 PM, cogoman cogo...@optimum.net wrote:

 BTW... does anyone know of a good ASCII drawing program, so I can easily
 make drawing that won't get scrubbed by the list software?

http://www.tech-chat.de/aacircuit.html is a Windows program that
almost works in Wine (I get screen garbage, fixable by reopening the
window).

Also, asciio, which is packaged with e.g. Fedora, using the attached
electronic symbols module (you need to add it to the library, and
modify setup/setup.ini )


electronic
Description: Binary data
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