[Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
Greetings;

Actually, thinking of the springs out of old 1 wide 15+ foot tape 
measures.

Has anyone done this, and taken a pix of how you anchored the ends of the 
spring so that there was enough pivot available so that it didn't force the 
spring out of shape with potential dirt leaks as it telescoped?  It seems 
to me that solidly anchored ends would encourage its warping as it 
telescoped.  I am inclined to machine a hub the right diameter for each end 
but doing a knob only the springs thickness high to fit a hole in the 
spring may be beyond my machining ability even with EDM.

Thanks for any URL's I can plagiarize.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 15:04:59 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 11 January 2013 17:58, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Actually, thinking of the springs out of old 1 wide 15+ foot tape
  measures.
 
 I doubt that they will work unless you re-roll them.
 
 If you buy a spring cover then you have to fit it on the screw first,
 then snip the wires, at which point it springs out to whatever extent
 it can.
 Tape measure springs want to be large and flat. Screw-cover springs
 want to be small and elongated.
 
 It would be possible to make a set of rollers to re-train the springs,
 but it would be quite a lot of work.

Humm, I'm 78 Andy,  even at that, probably more time than money.  What few 
of those covers I have seen were all well above the hundred dollar marker 
on this side of the pond.

And I have considered making spring rollers before  wouldn't consider it 
much more than an exercise in making a roller holding tool to roll it 
around a suitably sized mandrel in the lathe.

But what do you call wires?  Tape measures over here on this side of the 
pond generally contain a flat spring (flat as opposed the the across the 
width curve the tape itself is given to stiffen it for a good standout or 
stickout without the tape breaking over) that is usually very close to the 
tapes width, in this case about 25mm.  If anchored at the ends to a hub on 
each end, with one hub being x number of turns of the thickness bigger than 
the one anchoring what would be the inside, fixed post end,  And anchored 
at each end to a non-rotating hub so that it will come 'unwound' only if 
its broken, then it seems like it ought to slide sideways in and out of 
itself regardless of any tension it exerts to unwind itself.

Got my curiosity up, I'll go knock an old one apart just for SG.  Back 
when I've had time to fiddle with it a bit.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 15:38:36 Jon Elson did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 01/11/2013 11:58 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings;
  
  Actually, thinking of the springs out of old 1 wide 15+ foot tape
  measures.
  
  Has anyone done this, and taken a pix of how you anchored the ends of
  the spring so that there was enough pivot available so that it didn't
  force the spring out of shape with potential dirt leaks as it
  telescoped?  It seems to me that solidly anchored ends would
  encourage its warping as it telescoped.  I am inclined to machine a
  hub the right diameter for each end but doing a knob only the springs
  thickness high to fit a hole in the spring may be beyond my machining
  ability even with EDM.
  
  Thanks for any URL's I can plagiarize.
  
  Cheers, Gene
 
 The commercial ones seem to be tapered, ie. the strip is wider in the
 middle, and
 narrows at the ends.  I'm not sure that is necessary.
 
 Jon
 
Was that perhaps a lopsided taper?  eg the end edge trimmed so as to allow 
the taper to approach the anchoring end flange when collapsed?

I just took a cheap but still good Great Neck 25 footer apart, and the 
springs normal position when the tape is fully retracted, is in a fairly 
tight coil against the inside of the spool, and drawn toward the center of 
the spool as the tape is pulled out.  That would indicate that its relaxed 
shape is likely flat  about 26 feet long.  The inner diameter of the 
containment pocket in the spool is of course determined by how much space 
the tape fills in a nominally 2.75 diameter spool, and looks to be about 
1.75 with another 25 feet of tape on the spool.

I think it could be made to work, with or without putting the spring thru 
forming rollers as long as it was suitably anchored on both ends.  But it 
would have to have the ability to pivot on the anchor points by 20 degrees 
or so sideways in order not to cause it to buckle near the anchors when the 
length changes.  Cheap tape measures with big enough springs can be had for 
a total spring cost of 15 to 20 USD.  The hubs would be the shape 
controlling factor there.  Which is why I'm looking for ideas. In fact, it 
might be best to make the larger diameter end that I'd put against the 
bearing bosses, not a hub, but a containment cup.  Put the hubs against the 
nuts flanges.

This screw I have on order is 675MM long so I can put the right end 
floating bearing about 2 to the right of the existing bearing, so I'd have 
room for the cup without losing any travel.  Needs about 625mm according to 
my very rough measurements.  About 6 of the left end of the screw is 
inside the electronics housing and not usable for carriage travel anyway.

I knew there was a reason I bought the longer screw. :)  The left end is 
not a problem unless I can find a collet setup for that small a spindle, 
which would gain me about 40mm of travel there.  That would be nice, but 
probably made out of pure un-obtainium for the 7x12.  In fact, I am not at 
all sure if the headstock even has a Morse taper capability on this toy.

Ugly thought just now Jon.  Do these nuts have a lube port I'd have to 
leave uncovered?  There was some sort of a red plug, looked flush with the 
OD on the side of it in the poor res pix on fleabay.

Thanks Jon.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 11 January 2013 20:20, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 Humm, I'm 78 Andy,  even at that, probably more time than money.  What few
 of those covers I have seen were all well above the hundred dollar marker
 on this side of the pond.

Some of the mini-lathes come with spring-guards as standard. You might
get lucky with a spare part.

The one I bought for my machine wasn't that expensive:

From: DQR Precision Ltd

Further to our telecon, I have attached a couple of pages from our
spiral catalogue which I hope will be of use.  We are pleased to offer
as follows:

Qty   Description
 Unit Price £

1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel   55.58
  SF 30/450/50 V

1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel   51.16
  SF 30/400/30 V

1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel   52.08
  SF 30/350/50 V

 But what do you call wires?

They come held together with a loop of wire. When you snip the wire
they fly out to full extension.
The idea is to put them on the screw, close up the gap as small as
possible _then_ snip the wire.
Even at full extension the one on my Z axis isn't all that easy to
pull up to oil the screw.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rAELzB_258RZqjlFQatN-NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
It is held in place only by its own preload. The spigots just centre
it so it doesn't touch the screw.

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 19:19:01 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 11 January 2013 20:20, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Humm, I'm 78 Andy,  even at that, probably more time than money. 
  What few of those covers I have seen were all well above the hundred
  dollar marker on this side of the pond.
 
 Some of the mini-lathes come with spring-guards as standard. You might
 get lucky with a spare part.
 
 The one I bought for my machine wasn't that expensive:
 
 From: DQR Precision Ltd
 
 Further to our telecon, I have attached a couple of pages from our
 spiral catalogue which I hope will be of use.  We are pleased to offer
 as follows:
 
 Qty   Description
  Unit Price £
 
 1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel  
 55.58 SF 30/450/50 V
 
 1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel  
 51.16 SF 30/400/30 V
 
 1   ‘Duraspring’ Spiral Cover in Blue Steel  
 52.08 SF 30/350/50 V
 
  But what do you call wires?
 
 They come held together with a loop of wire. When you snip the wire
 they fly out to full extension.
 The idea is to put them on the screw, close up the gap as small as
 possible _then_ snip the wire.
 Even at full extension the one on my Z axis isn't all that easy to
 pull up to oil the screw.
 https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rAELzB_258RZqjlFQatN-NMTjNZETYmyPJ
 y0liipFm0?feat=directlink It is held in place only by its own preload.
 The spigots just centre it so it doesn't touch the screw.

Unforch, it doesn't appear they want any business from my side of the pond,  
no links to individual products at all, and a very limited web page, looks 
like a line card from a distributer for me.

And, while those are better prices, one would need one on each side of the 
nut, which puts that at about the same as the cost of the screw.  I'll 
cobble up something before I make swarf with it though.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 12 January 2013 00:23, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 Unforch, it doesn't appear they want any business from my side of the pond,
 no links to individual products at all, and a very limited web page, looks
 like a line card from a distributer for me.

Quite likely. DQR just happened to be the ones who would take an order from me.

 And, while those are better prices, one would need one on each side of the
 nut, which puts that at about the same as the cost of the screw.

FWIW my lathe has been running with a bare screw for a few years now,
with no problems so far.
The ballnut does have rubber inserts though, to keep out most of the mess.

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Ben Potter
 Unforch, it doesn't appear they want any business from my side of the
 pond, no links to individual products at all, and a very limited web
 page, looks like a line card from a distributer for me.
 
 And, while those are better prices, one would need one on each side of
 the nut, which puts that at about the same as the cost of the screw.
 I'll cobble up something before I make swarf with it though.
 

Welcome to the UK. Industrial supplies that do have prices online tend to be
daylight robbery with violence. For example, looking at online prices only;
black mild steel costs ~5 times as much as bright machined aluminium. A lot
of companies won't respond to e-mail, or if they do, it's to request a phone
call. Other companies will ignore phone calls, but reply to e-mails.
*mutter*

That said, my lathe (which has sealed ballscrew bearings) has telescopic
springs on half of the Z axis, with the X axis being enclosed. The other
half *should* have a spring cover, but since it was broken I left it alone.
This has not resulted in any problems yet. Turning has been limited to
fairly soft materials though, so no sparks from CBN inserts.

The mill has a sheet of PU over the ways, which does a surprisingly
effective job, I appreciate this doesn't work on lathes - but I can't see
any mention of the type of machine you're using at the moment.

Cheers
Ben


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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Cogoman
If it's worth the hassle to. Reshape the spring, I can picture wrapping it 
around a ceramic rod spiraling. Then using 3 propane torches. Attached to point 
toward the assembly from 120 degrees apart gradually move them from one end of 
the assembly to the other, slowly enough to get the metal cherry red, while 
quenching the red end in water or oil.

 You'll probably have to borrow a torch or two, and perhaps wood could be used 
instead of ceramic if there's enough water to put out the flames.  8-)
Sent from my Kyocera Rise

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 12 January 2013 00:41, Ben Potter b...@bpuk.org wrote:

 The mill has a sheet of PU over the ways, which does a surprisingly
 effective job, I appreciate this doesn't work on lathes

Something like this might:
http://byerplastic.en.made-in-china.com/productimage/hoJQxTkwhdWV-2f0j00uZBTiMmjkRoO/China-Collapsible-Hose-Pipe-Respirator-Hose-for-Hospital-Equpipment.html

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Ben Potter
 Something like this might:
 http://byerplastic.en.made-in-china.com/productimage/hoJQxTkwhdWV-
 2f0j00uZBTiMmjkRoO/China-Collapsible-Hose-Pipe-Respirator-Hose-for-
 Hospital-Equpipment.html


Darn it Andy. It's the weekend, I'm trying to not think about stuff to make
for work! I have enough 'projects' as it is!

But yeah, that could work, assuming your screw is longer than your travel to
allow for compression.


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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 11 January 2013 21:19, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 Cheap tape measures with big enough springs can be had for
 a total spring cost of 15 to 20 USD.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/497219348/cnc_machine_telescopic_spring_covers.html

$10 max price, though you need to buy 10.
plus shipping.

I bet you could sell on the extras though.

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 19:57:40 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 12 January 2013 00:23, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Unforch, it doesn't appear they want any business from my side of the
  pond, no links to individual products at all, and a very limited web
  page, looks like a line card from a distributer for me.
 
 Quite likely. DQR just happened to be the ones who would take an order
 from me.
 
  And, while those are better prices, one would need one on each side of
  the nut, which puts that at about the same as the cost of the screw.
 
 FWIW my lathe has been running with a bare screw for a few years now,
 with no problems so far.
 The ballnut does have rubber inserts though, to keep out most of the
 mess.

If I hear from the seller, which I should, I have an unanswered message in 
his inbox, I will ask if he has those for the nuts, its another trail to 
explore.  Even those would probably outlast me  AFAIAC, I'm not done yet. 
:)

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Ben Potter
 But yeah, that could work, assuming your screw is longer than your
 travel to allow for compression.
 
 Dyson hose has rather an impressive extension ratio..
 

Indeed.  But when I'm at the faceplate I have ~3mm of travel before hitting
the ballscrew bearings - ~550mm of travel from there - I'd be impressed by
any hose that had that sort of compression ratio.

I did have to pull the limit switches to machine the faceplate - so not
exactly normal machining - but still...



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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 20:02:12 Ben Potter did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

  Unforch, it doesn't appear they want any business from my side of the
  pond, no links to individual products at all, and a very limited web
  page, looks like a line card from a distributer for me.
  
  And, while those are better prices, one would need one on each side of
  the nut, which puts that at about the same as the cost of the screw.
  I'll cobble up something before I make swarf with it though.
 
 Welcome to the UK. Industrial supplies that do have prices online tend
 to be daylight robbery with violence. For example, looking at online
 prices only; black mild steel costs ~5 times as much as bright machined
 aluminium. A lot of companies won't respond to e-mail, or if they do,
 it's to request a phone call. Other companies will ignore phone calls,
 but reply to e-mails. *mutter*
 
 That said, my lathe (which has sealed ballscrew bearings) has telescopic
 springs on half of the Z axis, with the X axis being enclosed. The other
 half *should* have a spring cover, but since it was broken I left it
 alone. This has not resulted in any problems yet. Turning has been
 limited to fairly soft materials though, so no sparks from CBN inserts.
 
 The mill has a sheet of PU over the ways, which does a surprisingly
 effective job, I appreciate this doesn't work on lathes - but I can't
 see any mention of the type of machine you're using at the moment.
 
 Cheers
 Ben

7x12 lathe with 8x2.5mm ball screw fairly well covered for the X crossfeed, 
motor on the rear. Z motor on the left, 2/1 gear between motor and OEM 16 
tpi 3/4 screw ATM.  This is the screw being discussed.

HF micro-mill with expansion tables from LMS, home made Z drive, some early 
pix of it on my web page. Std (but longer) screws on xy.  Lotta miles on 
it.  Plastic spur cut gears in gearbox have been totaled a couple times 
now.

Anything I left out, just yell Ben.

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 12 January 2013 01:05, Ben Potter b...@bpuk.org wrote:

 Indeed.  But when I'm at the faceplate I have ~3mm of travel before hitting
 the ballscrew bearings -

Same here. If I was doing the conversion again the ballscrew would be
shifted 6 towards the headstock end. The part past the tailstock is
utterly wasted. (it's not like you ever turn _really_ long stuff
without the tailstock.
(I have no fixed-steady)

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 20:13:00 Cogoman did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 If it's worth the hassle to. Reshape the spring, I can picture wrapping
 it around a ceramic rod spiraling. Then using 3 propane torches.
 Attached to point toward the assembly from 120 degrees apart gradually
 move them from one end of the assembly to the other, slowly enough to
 get the metal cherry red, while quenching the red end in water or oil.
 
  You'll probably have to borrow a torch or two, and perhaps wood could
 be used instead of ceramic if there's enough water to put out the
 flames.  8-) Sent from my Kyocera Rise

If I do it, probably with a pretty small mandrel and something like a 
knurling tool, but with ball bearings for the knurling wheels.  That might 
not work of course, but it would be my first try. :)

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 12 January 2013 00:48, Cogoman cogo...@optimum.net wrote:
 If it's worth the hassle to. Reshape the spring, I can picture wrapping it 
 around a ceramic rod spiraling. Then using 3 propane torches. Attached to 
 point toward the assembly from 120 degrees apart gradually move them from one 
 end of the assembly to the other, slowly enough to get the metal cherry red, 
 while quenching the red end in water or oil.

That's not how you make springs. They are cold-formed.

Quenching and tempering will ruin the microstructure.

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Re: [Emc-users] Using 'clock' spring for dust cover on ball screw

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 20:28:49 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 11 January 2013 21:19, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Cheap tape measures with big enough springs can be had for
  a total spring cost of 15 to 20 USD.
 
 http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/497219348/cnc_machine_telescopic_sprin
 g_covers.html
 
 $10 max price, though you need to buy 10.
 plus shipping.
 
 I bet you could sell on the extras though.

Probably!  But no dimensions given.  I'll bookmark  chat Monday evening.
No clue if I could mix  match in that qty 10 either.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene
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[Emc-users] LinuxCNC for DIY 3D Printing

2013-01-11 Thread Ed Nisley
TL;DR summary: advice needed on a LinuxCNC-based 3D printer project.

The background...

About a year ago, high-end DIY 3D printers outstripped the capabilities 
of Arduino-based controllers: the gymnastics required to stuff 
acceleration control into 8 bit microcontrollers appears to be a dead 
end. There's a notion of re-re-writing the Arduino firmware in 32 bit 
style for [ARM | Beagle | RPi | whatever] running on another generation 
of custom microcontroller boards.

Rather than waiting for more of the same, I want to explore what 
LinuxCNC can enable for an advanced (albeit Cartesian) DIY 3D printer, 
starting with a solid motion-control foundation plus all the other 
features LinuxCNC provides, the ones that would require serious firmware 
development for Arduino-based code.

For example...

Hard real time motion control, rather than interrupt-based motor 
handlers that go awry when userland code inadvertently disables 
interrupts to bit-bang an I2C peripheral.

Userland scripting, extensible language features, a G-Code dialect with 
loops / branching / subroutines, stuff like that.

Probing the build platform to correct for for height variation and 
misalignment: probekins.

I think a HAL-based extruder model that could include second- and 
third-order effects should provide better control than a simple 
linear/angular axis, particularly for a printer with multiple extruders. 
The plasma torch controller modules seem like good starting points.

Similarly, ladder logic offers interesting possibilities for an extruder 
tool changer.

LinuxCNC offers a *much* better UI, with devices that aren't teleported 
from 1990. I want to get a Touchy interface running early, just to show 
it off, plus the usual gamepad jogging and suchlike.

Network-aware capabilities right out of the box, a real operating 
system, and enough compute power  storage to make everything work.

Plus all the topics I can barely pronounce when you folks discuss using 
them on your industrial machinery.

The hardware plan...

I'll start with a stock Makergear M2, which seems to be the most solid 
and well-designed DIY printer currently available. I'd prefer an 
enclosure to stabilize the ambient temperature, but that's basically a 
big box.

Once the stock M2 works well enough, replace its RAMBo controller with 
Mesa 5i25 + 7i76.

The 7i76 has enough robust digital outputs to drive SSRs for heaters and 
whatnot, with HAL components closing the temperature loops. The thermal 
time constants seem long enough to not require high-frequency PWM 
proportional control, which should simplify things.

It also has sufficient digital inputs for home switches, probe contacts, 
and stuff like that.

However, the printer controller also needs multi-channel thermocouple 
inputs, because thermistors seem underqualified for long-term 
measurements at 200+ C. I'd like to use a Mesa 7i87 for analog input, 
but it appears unsupported by the HostMot2 driver:
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Mesa_Cards

An alternative might be some Arduino love with this shield, although 
four channels seems limiting:
http://www.mlgp-llc.com/arduino/public/arduino-pcb.html

The Mesa 7i32 stepper driver board doesn't connect to the 5i25 at all. I 
don't know whether a Gecko G540 4 channel board (which is one axis shy 
of what I want) would make more sense than a quintet of M542H boards hot 
from the usual eBay vendor, but, for sure, blowing a single-channel 
board would be much less painful than taking out the Gecko.

Although I have some of those tiny Pololu drivers, I think they're 
underqualified for this job. I'd love to be proven wrong.

The goal is to produce a 3D printer with a contemporary control system 
that's easily extensible and isn't constrained by the quirks of DIY 3D 
history. Eventually, I want to tinker with better printer mechanics, in 
particular extruders, but the M2 should suffice for much of the 
proof-of-concept work.

I have the attention of a guy who knows his way around the innards of 
the latest accelerated-motion-control Arduino firmware. I'll get my M2 
running to show it's possible, then poke around at system improvements, 
after which he can build a similar setup and begin doing wonderful things.

What I need...

Guidance around my blind spots!

F'r instance, I'm sure I've missed a hardware gotcha. Are there more 
practical ways to drive five stepper axes, get a bunch of digital I/O, 
and read thermocouples?

Although I'm generally a big fan of lashing up surplus parts in my shop, 
I want to do this with reasonably standard hardware, so as to simplify 
building the next one. It's coming out of my pocket, however: the sky is 
*not* the budgetary limit.

I'll surely have a bunch more questions as I make progress over the next 
few months (the M2 will likely take several months to arrive), but I'd 
appreciate any advice in the interim.

Thanks...


-- 
Ed
softsolder.com


Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC for DIY 3D Printing

2013-01-11 Thread andy pugh
On 12 January 2013 02:25, Ed Nisley ed.08.nis...@pobox.com wrote:

 I think a HAL-based extruder model that could include second- and
 third-order effects should provide better control than a simple
 linear/angular axis

The laser rastering work might be relevant, that requires a constant
photon density in much the same way as FDM requires a constant
material density.
The example on the Wiki (G-raster?) is really very clever. Much
cleverer than it would have needed to be if inserted at a more
sensible layer.

 Similarly, ladder logic offers interesting possibilities for an extruder
 tool changer.

Don't discount HAL and custom comps in this area.

 The 7i76 has enough robust digital outputs to drive SSRs for heaters and
 whatnot, with HAL components closing the temperature loops.

I keep trying to persuade Pete to make an SSR / thermocouple module.
It's possible that one is on the way. It seems to me like a really
useful 7i76 smart-serail plug-in board.

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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC for DIY 3D Printing

2013-01-11 Thread Charles Steinkuehler
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

On 1/11/2013 8:25 PM, Ed Nisley wrote:
 What I need...
 
 Guidance around my blind spots!
 
 F'r instance, I'm sure I've missed a hardware gotcha. Are there
 more practical ways to drive five stepper axes, get a bunch of
 digital I/O, and read thermocouples?
 
 Although I'm generally a big fan of lashing up surplus parts in my
 shop, I want to do this with reasonably standard hardware, so as to
 simplify building the next one. It's coming out of my pocket,
 however: the sky is *not* the budgetary limit.

I believe Mesa has some analog input cards that are supported by the
hostmot2 driver, if not it probably wouldn't be too hard to add support.

As you mentioned, the Arduino is one way to get some cheap I/O, and
there are examples of integrating this with HAL already:

http://axis.unpy.net/01198594294

Tooting my own horn, a couple other ways to do this include:

Directly interface an I2C ADC to a couple pins on the parallel port
and talk I2C via a custom HAL module.  I have done this and used the
result to connect LinuxCNC via a parallel port to a standard RAMPS
board.  It worked well enough to print reasonably well, and would work
a lot better with a more sophisticated thermal control algorithm (I
was using a bang-bang thermostat, it wouldn't be too hard to work up a
PID control with feed-forward coming from the extrusion rate).
Details and code are in my github repo:

https://github.com/cdsteinkuehler/LinuxCNC-RepRap

...and what I personally am working on for the 'future' of LinuxCNC
control of 3D printers:  Interface the BeagleBone to a 3D printer,
running LinuxCNC on the ARM core, and using the 'Bone's integrated
hardware (ADC, PWM, and high-speed PRU co-processors) to handle the
low-level control.  I'm currently working on this along with several
others (see the developer list for LinuxCNC on ARM goodness), using
the BeBoPr shield for the BeagleBone as a starting point for the hardware:

http://circuitco.com/support/index.php?title=BeBoPr_Cape

 I'll surely have a bunch more questions as I make progress over the
 next few months (the M2 will likely take several months to arrive),
 but I'd appreciate any advice in the interim.

I design hardware for a living, and am *VERY* interested in seeing
LinuxCNC controlling a 3D printer *WELL*, so holler if you have any
questions.  I am currently working on the hardware end of things, but
there is a lot in the interface, control, and HAL configuration that
could be done to help things along.  The nice thing about LinuxCNC is
if you can get a good solid working configuration on one platform
(parallel port + Arduino, Mesa cards, BeagleBone or whatever), it
should be pretty straight-forward to port to alternate hardware.

- -- 
Charles Steinkuehler
char...@steinkuehler.net
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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC for DIY 3D Printing

2013-01-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Friday 11 January 2013 22:48:24 Ed Nisley did opine:
Message additions Copyright Friday 11 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 TL;DR summary: advice needed on a LinuxCNC-based 3D printer project.
 
 The background...
 
 About a year ago, high-end DIY 3D printers outstripped the capabilities
 of Arduino-based controllers: the gymnastics required to stuff
 acceleration control into 8 bit microcontrollers appears to be a dead
 end. There's a notion of re-re-writing the Arduino firmware in 32 bit
 style for [ARM | Beagle | RPi | whatever] running on another generation
 of custom microcontroller boards.
 
 Rather than waiting for more of the same, I want to explore what
 LinuxCNC can enable for an advanced (albeit Cartesian) DIY 3D printer,
 starting with a solid motion-control foundation plus all the other
 features LinuxCNC provides, the ones that would require serious firmware
 development for Arduino-based code.
 
 For example...
 
 Hard real time motion control, rather than interrupt-based motor
 handlers that go awry when userland code inadvertently disables
 interrupts to bit-bang an I2C peripheral.
 
 Userland scripting, extensible language features, a G-Code dialect with
 loops / branching / subroutines, stuff like that.
 
 Probing the build platform to correct for for height variation and
 misalignment: probekins.
 
 I think a HAL-based extruder model that could include second- and
 third-order effects should provide better control than a simple
 linear/angular axis, particularly for a printer with multiple extruders.
 The plasma torch controller modules seem like good starting points.
 
 Similarly, ladder logic offers interesting possibilities for an extruder
 tool changer.
 
 LinuxCNC offers a *much* better UI, with devices that aren't teleported
 from 1990. I want to get a Touchy interface running early, just to show
 it off, plus the usual gamepad jogging and suchlike.
 
 Network-aware capabilities right out of the box, a real operating
 system, and enough compute power  storage to make everything work.
 
 Plus all the topics I can barely pronounce when you folks discuss using
 them on your industrial machinery.
 
 The hardware plan...
 
 I'll start with a stock Makergear M2, which seems to be the most solid
 and well-designed DIY printer currently available. I'd prefer an
 enclosure to stabilize the ambient temperature, but that's basically a
 big box.
 
 Once the stock M2 works well enough, replace its RAMBo controller with
 Mesa 5i25 + 7i76.
 
 The 7i76 has enough robust digital outputs to drive SSRs for heaters and
 whatnot, with HAL components closing the temperature loops. The thermal
 time constants seem long enough to not require high-frequency PWM
 proportional control, which should simplify things.
 
 It also has sufficient digital inputs for home switches, probe contacts,
 and stuff like that.
 
 However, the printer controller also needs multi-channel thermocouple
 inputs, because thermistors seem underqualified for long-term
 measurements at 200+ C. I'd like to use a Mesa 7i87 for analog input,
 but it appears unsupported by the HostMot2 driver:
 http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Mesa_Cards
 
 An alternative might be some Arduino love with this shield, although
 four channels seems limiting:
 http://www.mlgp-llc.com/arduino/public/arduino-pcb.html
 
 The Mesa 7i32 stepper driver board doesn't connect to the 5i25 at all. I
 don't know whether a Gecko G540 4 channel board (which is one axis shy
 of what I want) would make more sense than a quintet of M542H boards hot
 from the usual eBay vendor, but, for sure, blowing a single-channel
 board would be much less painful than taking out the Gecko.

I currently have a 6 pack of the $50 2M542's in my stuff Ed, 4 running on a 
measly 28 volts on the mill, and two running on a hair under 40 on the 
lathe, one of them (Z) wide open for current because its 8 wire, wired 
parallel.  Zero problems in a year + so far.  The 28 volt rig is 4 of them 
in a sealed box with a big fan to distribute the heat to the boxes 1/8 and 
1/4 skin panels, and another fan blowing across the top of the box, which 
I forgot to plug in for a couple days last summer.  It got to about 115F 
without the external fan.  That one I wanted to be tight against any flying 
swarf.  Configuring can be fun because it scales either on powers of 2, but 
can also do decimal, as much as 25x microstepping.  Very quiet that way, 
but my atom boards couldn't get it to anywhere near a decent speed, so its 
back to about 8x microstepping now.  The motors are all double and triple 
stack nema 23's.

 Although I have some of those tiny Pololu drivers, I think they're
 underqualified for this job. I'd love to be proven wrong.

I think you are correct, I looked at a board at the shack, but do not have 
any motors that small.  The single stack nema 17's I have could not be 
driven to full torque by the Pololu.

 The goal is to produce a 3D printer with a contemporary control system
 

[Emc-users] Linuxcnc on the Olinuxino

2013-01-11 Thread Eric H. Johnson
Hi all,

This is really a response to the LinuxCNC  for DIY 3D Printing thread
without hijacking that thread.

After seeing the success of a few other people in getting lcnc running on an
Arm / Beaglebone, I thought I would take a shot at doing the same on the
Olinuxino, with the intent of driving a 3D printer.  I found the Olinuxino
attractive because it has 512MB RAM and a 1Ghz processor and 3 I2C
interfaces, as well as a companion 7 LCD or LCD touch display. It does not
have an immediate interface to get to a Mesa type FPGA device, but I was
hoping with a 1Ghz processor I would at least be able to directly drive 3
stepper motors.

The board in fact just arrived today. Android built into the onboard NAND
booted first time. While waiting for the board to arrive, I also built a
custom kernel and a debian image and loaded that to a 4GB SD card. That,
unfortunately was an abject failure. It would not boot, and worse, gave no
error message. I just got a black screen.

I am going to try a prebuilt stock debian image tomorrow.

I did start a blog to document my progress here:
http://lcncolinuxino.blogspot.com/

I will certainly have many questions (probably better posted to the
developer list) as I get further along, but this seemed to be an appropriate
time mention what I was up to.

Regards,
Eric





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