[Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Roland Jollivet
On 19 January 2013 23:22, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello!

 Winter has arrived with temperatures below -20C, so I finally decided
 to something about inability to start up car's engine in these cold
 mornings.
 There are lots of options for auxiliary heating with fuel and
 electricity. I found on ebay a nice heater that works from fuel, but
 it costs some 600 EUR.
 I found out that my parents have installed some electrical heaters in
 several of our tractors. They are cheap (something around 70 EUR) and
 work good, but the problem is that there is no pump inside the unit,
 just heater. In tractors they are specially placed relatively low to
 the engine so that the cooling liquid flows naturally as it is heated.
 I do not think that it is possible in car, so the question is:
 Can anyone suggest a small pump, powered by AC electricity and, what
 is most important, that will work in -20C, -30C temperature? I was
 thinking about all these aquarium pumps - size is great, flow rate
 also good, but I am reserved about them working below 0C.

 Is there something for a reasonable price?
 Thanks in advance!

 --
 Viesturs

 If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
 http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto


Is the vehicle in a garage or parked outdoors?
If it's in a garage, I would concentrate on insulating/warming that.
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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Viesturs Lācis
Thank You, guys, for the answers!

2013/1/20 Sven Wesley svenne.d...@gmail.com:
 All my cars have, and all my former cars had, electrical heaters. You don't
 need a pump.
 There are universal models that sits in the cooler hose that works
 flawlessly.

Well, there has to be something that makes the fluid to circulate.
Either it is a pump, which allows to place the heater anywhere with
respect to motor. Or let the fluid circulate naturally, based on the
fact that warmer liquid has smaller density so it moves up... But this
approach requires to position the heater carefully with the motor
block. It will not just work anywhere...

I suspect that Your electrical heating units have a pump already built in...

 There's a silicone/rubber plate model nowadays that you glue directly onto
 the oil pan that works pretty well too. Some guys use it to pre-heat the
 oil reservoir on hydraulic machines. I think the price is 50-70 Euro.

Yes, I have heard about them and we discussed them also with dad
yesterday as he mentioned that their price also is good, but since I
live in countryside there are several reasons I am suspicious about:
1) it should be attached to oil pan, which is at the very bottom of the motor;
do I understand correctly that it actually requires also some
protective shield to prevent any damage by things on the road? Like
pieces of snow and ice that I can hear to hit the bottom of car? The
road passing by my house is not cleaned within an hour or so after a
snowfall;
2) IMHO the oil pan definitely is subject to get splashes of water from wheels;
are these heaters sensitive to water or are they sealed up really good?
3) this heater heats up the motor only from one side while heating the
cooling liquid and circulating it through the motor block heats it up
thoroughly;
so I somehow think that this approach is less effective and takes more
time; is that really true?
4) and how exactly are they attached to the oil pan? Literally glued,
which does not feel really safe to me? Or can it be positioned also
with bolts (which requires welding few nuts to the outside of oil
pan)?

-- 
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http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] Glade question

2013-01-20 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2013/1/20 Chris Morley chrisinnana...@hotmail.com:

 Can you post your glade and handler file


I put them in my site:
www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.ui
www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.py

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Re: [Emc-users] Glade question

2013-01-20 Thread Chris Morley



 From: viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:17:26 +0200
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Glade question
 
 2013/1/20 Chris Morley chrisinnana...@hotmail.com:
 
  Can you post your glade and handler file
 
 
 I put them in my site:
 www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.ui
 www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.py
 
 -- 
 Viesturs
 

Yes your handler file is not right.
Can you just include your GLADE file?
I want to load it in glade - copy and paste from website doesn't work.

I will try to fix it tomorrow to give you an example to work with.
But see if this works for starters:

Chris M


class HandlerClass:


def __init__(self, halcomp,builder,useropts):
self.builder = builder
self.voltage_spinbutton = self.builder.get_object('volreq')
self.voltage_spinbutton.set_value(1.0)
def get_handlers(halcomp,builder,useropts):
return [HandlerClass(halcomp,builder,useropts)]

  
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Re: [Emc-users] Glade question

2013-01-20 Thread Viesturs Lācis
2013/1/20 Chris Morley chrisinnana...@hotmail.com:



 From: viesturs.la...@gmail.com
 Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:17:26 +0200
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Glade question

 2013/1/20 Chris Morley chrisinnana...@hotmail.com:
 
  Can you post your glade and handler file
 

 I put them in my site:
 www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.ui
 www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.py

 --
 Viesturs


 Yes your handler file is not right.
 Can you just include your GLADE file?
 I want to load it in glade - copy and paste from website doesn't work.

I do not have a file with extension glade. I checked - it does not
offer me to save with such a file type.
I will send it to You in private email.

 I will try to fix it tomorrow to give you an example to work with.
 But see if this works for starters:

 Chris M


 class HandlerClass:


 def __init__(self, halcomp,builder,useropts):
 self.builder = builder
 self.voltage_spinbutton = self.builder.get_object('volreq')
 self.voltage_spinbutton.set_value(1.0)
 def get_handlers(halcomp,builder,useropts):
 return [HandlerClass(halcomp,builder,useropts)]

Thank You! Unfortunately I do not understand, how exactly do I
integrate this with the existing handler file.

-- 
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If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Kent A. Reed
Viesturs:

A quick check with a search engine tells me there are tons of 
discussions of the relative merits of different heating techniques 
including opinionated folk living in extreme climates like northern 
Canada and Alaska, just to cite North America.

If I were adding a heater to an existing vehicle, I expect I'd go for an 
easily installed oil-pan heater despite the potential for scraping that 
you mention. Fortunately, I've never lived anywhere cold enough to 
justify these techniques (well, there was that winter in Chicago 40-odd 
years ago but I was without a car at the time. Even the elevated trains 
were out of service.). In my youth, dipstick-styled heaters were the 
rage in my grandparents' farm community in the Badlands.

It seems to me that if the nights are cold enough to justify an engine 
heater then a battery blanket/heater would be a good idea too. Car 
batteries lose much of their cranking capacity as the temperature plunges.

Regards,
Kent


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Re: [Emc-users] G76?

2013-01-20 Thread John Prentice (FS)
Gene, greetings

-Original Message-
From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@wdtv.com] 
Sent: 20 January 2013 05:30

 
 Has anyone cut any threads with g76 lately?
 
 I fired off a routine that 4 months back worked great, carving a 
 1/4-28 thread for me several times last fall.  Tonight, without any 
 changes in the .hal file that would affect threading ops, still set to 
 make a
 1/4-28 SAE thread, and it came out at about 24 tpi.  And I haven't a 
 clue.  My encoder still has 39 slots. Etc, etc.  I am on the bleeding 
 edge development branch.

This is a stab in the dark. I have been bitten with coarse pitch threads
caused by the Z ais not being capable of meeting the required rate for the
pitch and spindle RPM. I had an error in VFD scaling and spindle was running
a lot faster than I commanded.

It is a pita that LCNC does not complain about the impossible motion but
just limits on the set Z max-vel.

John Prentice


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Re: [Emc-users] Adjusting Work Coordinates and Offsets?

2013-01-20 Thread andy pugh
On 17 January 2013 22:19, Todd  Zuercher
zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 The machine operators often need to make small adjustments to the depth of 
 the carving, bumping it up or down a few thousanths.

For that particular use-case it might be appropriate to have a PyVCP
slider connected directly to a HAL offset function.

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread John Stewart
Viesturs;

We are in for another bout of cold weather, with night time lows of -30C. 

I have a block heater in my little Toyota Matrix, and when it's below about 
-20, I plug it in, and turn it on an hour or two before we try to start the car 
in the morning. 

It *does* make a difference. The car engine does turn over better than without 
it. Simple, reliable. 

Buildings here used to have (and, at work, still have) block heater plugs. But, 
now with fuel injection, the old if it does not start in three 
rrRRRrrr-rrrRRRrrr's when turning the ignition key go back to bed no longer 
is an issue; the car simply starts. But, the engine makes less noises if the 
block heater has been turned on for a while beforehand.

John A. Stewart
Ottawa, where yesterday we had rain all day, and today it's forecast to hit 
-30C overnight tonight.


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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread John Stewart
Viesturs;

Another really off-topic post. 

Years ago, my wife at the time and I purchased a new diesel VW Golf. It came 
with the standard one year, anywhere in the world we'll fix it warranty.

6 months later, we were living in the Netherlands, and this car made it over 
with us. 

One month after that, I got a recall letter in my forwarded-from-Canada postal 
mail.

The recall notice (in Canadian Traditional Format - english one side, french 
the other) said that there was a recall on some power steering units, and to 
take the car to your nearest dealer.

So, I did. The dealer around the corner in The Netherlands had never seen a 
recall notice with english on one side, french on the other. He had no 
knowledge of the recall ID, either. But, he said leave it with me, and I'll 
get back to you. We did, and he did.

The problem was that the power steering unit leaked when cold. There were no 
parts available in Europe, as it only got that cold on this side of the 
atlantic issue. So, he returned the car, the french/english recall letter, a 
covering letter from the dealer written in dutch, plus an inspection report in 
German, indicating that the car had been inspected within the warranty period, 
and it was not an issue in it's current location, but if it ever was 
re-exported back to Canada, that the power steering unit would be replaced free 
of charge.

So there!

John A. Stewart
Ottawa.
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Re: [Emc-users] G76?

2013-01-20 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 20 January 2013 11:28:00 Dave Caroline did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 2:49 AM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Greetings all;
  
  Has anyone cut any threads with g76 lately?
 
 yes and I checked the change log looking for updates to see if any
 changes were made
 
  I fired off a routine that 4 months back worked great, carving a
  1/4-28 thread for me several times last fall.  Tonight, without any
  changes in the .hal file that would affect threading ops, still set
  to make a 1/4-28 SAE thread, and it came out at about 24 tpi.  And I
  haven't a clue.  My encoder still has 39 slots. Etc, etc.  I am on
  the bleeding edge development branch.
  
  If someone could go cut a thread with this 2.6 code and check it for
  true tpi, it might help me find whatever dumb effect I've put into
  this in my spindle servo tuning.
  
  Thanks folks.
  
  --
  Cheers, Gene
  --
 
 I believe the docs need updating to show some problems inherent in the
 code

I'd agree, but what I've found sure wasn't the show stopper this is.
 
 The acceleration and deceleration time is not mentioned in the docs
 and also does it fire off an error
 if the acceleration and deceleration is programmed IN your desired
 thread drive line
 also if you set your spindle at a speed where your Z needs to run at
 or above its maximum velocity no error is given

Already noted.

I've not seen an error of that nature, and in any event, the spindle speed 
in this example code, 100 rpm, is well below any accel/maxvel limits.  I 
have run that same code at 750 rpms  the only thing that seemed to change 
was the left/right registration of the cut thread, it slides to the left as 
the rpms go up because the actual sync point is late, internally delayed 
from the index pulse by the accel time from a dead stop. X accel's for the 
leadout cut were at one time chosen to be about 1/2 turn of the spindle but 
the spindle was turning about 400 revs when I did that calc.

At 100 revs, z has probably a 10x or more headroom, it can run 39 ipm 
steady state.  Current settings are:

[TRAJ]
DEFAULT_VELOCITY = 0.250
MAX_LINEAR_VELOCITY = 0.65

[X axis]:
MAX_VELOCITY = 0.60
MAX_ACCELERATION = 5.50
STEPGEN_MAXACCEL = 11.00

[Z axis:]
MAX_VELOCITY = 0.3765
MAX_ACCELERATION = 3.00
STEPGEN_MAXACCEL = 6.00

Z is slower, its a 2/1 geardown to the screw, both motors are 430 triple 
stacks, x is 8 wire series, z is 8 wire parallel wired, amp wide open to 
get better accel's.  Screw is 16tpi, but will eventually be a 16mmx5mm, its 
on a boat by now I hope.  I probably won't change the gearing as creep 
speeds now aren't even worth calling a surveyer to set stake  measure it 
later...  And it is geared, not belted, using the old 'change gears' gears.

 I believe to get good threads with the current code run more slowly
 and have a good entry and exit time

That code I posted has a start point at +.200 from the start of the thread 
itself, lots of time to steady the motion.
 
 There is also a strange path seen when making a left hand thread with
 an entry taper

Not tried yet. :)

 I do a tool change, the next move is to the start point, except it
 seems to have two parts to the move, the first going to the drive line
 rather than the taper start.

Thats correct.

With separate homing operations in my setup, I did the x home to that gage 
when I switched to the single tooth, a cutoff tool blade suitably 
sharpened, and it appears I need to fine tune the code, the thread is about 
-0.015 undersized, but thats my problem because that code never before had 
a known home setting to work from, the tpi it cut is the real problem.

In fact, the next thing I did after seeing that was to put a 1.050 travel 
dial indicator on the carriage to see if a 1.000 move was actually 1.000, 
and it was.

I haven't figured out a way to home the Z with that tool as the broad side 
of the tool holder would hit the Z side of gage first.  I should make some 
measurements of the offset  put it in the tool table, but haven't gotten 
to that point just yet.  One thing at a time lest I overload my now ancient 
wet ram. :)

 Your question has made me say something before I did a bug report.
 
 
 Dave Caroline
 
Thanks for looking at this Dave.

Thinking out loud, would it be possible to include the ChangeLog in the 
package I get 2-4x a week from the buildbot?  That would tend to give us 
enough we might even be able to point a bit more specifically when a 
problem pops up.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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harder and harder 

Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 20 January 2013 12:23:36 Viesturs Lācis did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 Thank You, guys, for the answers!
 
 2013/1/20 Sven Wesley svenne.d...@gmail.com:
  All my cars have, and all my former cars had, electrical heaters. You
  don't need a pump.
  There are universal models that sits in the cooler hose that works
  flawlessly.
 
 Well, there has to be something that makes the fluid to circulate.
 Either it is a pump, which allows to place the heater anywhere with
 respect to motor. Or let the fluid circulate naturally, based on the
 fact that warmer liquid has smaller density so it moves up... But this
 approach requires to position the heater carefully with the motor
 block. It will not just work anywhere...
 
 I suspect that Your electrical heating units have a pump already built
 in...
 
  There's a silicone/rubber plate model nowadays that you glue directly
  onto the oil pan that works pretty well too. Some guys use it to
  pre-heat the oil reservoir on hydraulic machines. I think the price
  is 50-70 Euro.
 
 Yes, I have heard about them and we discussed them also with dad
 yesterday as he mentioned that their price also is good, but since I
 live in countryside there are several reasons I am suspicious about:
 1) it should be attached to oil pan, which is at the very bottom of the
 motor; do I understand correctly that it actually requires also some
 protective shield to prevent any damage by things on the road? Like
 pieces of snow and ice that I can hear to hit the bottom of car? The
 road passing by my house is not cleaned within an hour or so after a
 snowfall;
 2) IMHO the oil pan definitely is subject to get splashes of water from
 wheels; are these heaters sensitive to water or are they sealed up
 really good? 3) this heater heats up the motor only from one side while
 heating the cooling liquid and circulating it through the motor block
 heats it up thoroughly;
 so I somehow think that this approach is less effective and takes more
 time; is that really true?
 4) and how exactly are they attached to the oil pan? Literally glued,
 which does not feel really safe to me? Or can it be positioned also
 with bolts (which requires welding few nuts to the outside of oil
 pan)?

The ones I've seen, but not used, were generally held in place by springs 
attached to eyelets installed under a few pan screw heads.  Usually 4, one 
on each corner of the heater pad.

As for shielding against mechanical damages, I think I'd install an 'off-
road' skid plate  let the big stuff bounce off it.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene is up!
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Re: [Emc-users] G76?

2013-01-20 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 20 January 2013 12:36:58 John Prentice (FS) did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 Gene, greetings
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@wdtv.com]
 Sent: 20 January 2013 05:30
 
  Has anyone cut any threads with g76 lately?
  
  I fired off a routine that 4 months back worked great, carving a
  1/4-28 thread for me several times last fall.  Tonight, without any
  changes in the .hal file that would affect threading ops, still set to
  make a
  1/4-28 SAE thread, and it came out at about 24 tpi.  And I haven't a
  clue.  My encoder still has 39 slots. Etc, etc.  I am on the bleeding
  edge development branch.
 
 This is a stab in the dark. I have been bitten with coarse pitch threads
 caused by the Z ais not being capable of meeting the required rate for
 the pitch and spindle RPM. I had an error in VFD scaling and spindle
 was running a lot faster than I commanded.
 
 It is a pita that LCNC does not complain about the impossible motion
 but just limits on the set Z max-vel.
 
 John Prentice
 
No chance John. 39ipm capable z, 28 tpi, 100 rpm, but it will do the same 
at 750 revs or more, but slid to the left half a thread at 750 revs.
In fact, 100 revs is too slow, the tool doesn't cut as clean.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene is up!
My views 
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one-and-a-half truths.
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Re: [Emc-users] Adjusting Work Coordinates and Offsets?

2013-01-20 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 20 January 2013 12:41:50 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 17 January 2013 22:19, Todd  Zuercher
 
 zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  The machine operators often need to make small adjustments to the
  depth of the carving, bumping it up or down a few thousanths.
 
 For that particular use-case it might be appropriate to have a PyVCP
 slider connected directly to a HAL offset function.

I'm drooling over over that possibility Andy, it would be handier than 
bottled beer or sliced bread! 


Cheers, Gene
-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Glade question

2013-01-20 Thread Chris Morley

  I put them in my site:
  www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.ui
  www.cutting.lv/fileadmin/user_upload/plasma.py
 
  --
  Viesturs
 
 
  Yes your handler file is not right.
  Can you just include your GLADE file?
  I want to load it in glade - copy and paste from website doesn't work.
 

Ok I tinkered with you files - got it to work.
Couple of things I will say.
You were using HAL_labels as regular label. They are not.
Use labels as labels and HAL_labels for displaying hal pin numbers.

You have a tons of HAL_Hbox and HAL_Table s. Do you really need them all
HALized? Use HAL widgets only when you need the HAL functions, otherwise
use regular GTK widgets.

But that would give you warnings in a terminal not stop things from working.

You handler file was just  - wrong :)
Interestingly I tried to put an INI example in there but it didn't work ..
I'l[ look into that more later.
Finally how were you loading this with loadusr gladevcp?
I discovered the  -u plasma_handler.py must be before the plasma.ui

oh and .glade is the old ending I think they use .ui now, same thing.
you must be using a new version of glade then me.

The files are included but here:
I added comments:


# This is gladeVCP boiler code - meaning code needed to make it run all run
# and mostly uninteresting to us - it gives gladeVCP access to our class
def get_handlers(halcomp,builder,useropts):
return [HandlerClass(halcomp,builder,useropts)]

# The class name can be considered more boler code in most cases
# inside the class we will have function/methods for doing our dirty work
#
class HandlerClass:

# This function is run only once when first started initialization  
(__init_)
# The form of this, you may consider boiler code.
# It gives you access to gladeVCP's hal, builder and user options
def __init__(self, halcomp,builder,useropts):

# This is just to be sure the code got run at start up
# You will see this printed in a terminal if one is open
# once you know this handler file is called properly
# you can comment over this - but this is a good technique to debug code
# you can also print the value of stuff th same way
print got here

# by adding this statement with 'self' gives us access to builder
# outside on the __INI__ function. In this example we don't need it
# but usually you have more code that will
self.builder = builder

# First we must make a 'reference' to the widgets we want
# The reference name (self.voltage_spinbutton) can be anything we want
# note that we use 'self' so we can use it outside of the __ini__ 
function
# self.builder.get_object('volreq') tells glade to search for the widget
# 'volreg' and assigs that widget to our reference name
# after that we can use out reference name to access GTK methods
# The spinbox has a method - set_value(value) - obviously to set the 
value :)
# there are lots of other methods such as get_value()
# these two methods are very common with gtk widgets
# anyways we set the value to 150
self.voltage_spinbutton = self.builder.get_object('volreq')
self.voltage_spinbutton.set_value(150)

# and here we do it again for the velocity scale
self.velocity_scale = self.builder.get_object('velscale')
self.velocity_scale.set_value(1.0)
 

  

plasma.ui
Description: application/designer
# This import is needed for access to the INI file
# This is how you 'import' extra libraries you may need
import linuxcnc,os

# This is gladeVCP boiler code - meaning code needed to make it run all run
# and mostly uninteresting to us - it gives gladeVCP access to our class
def get_handlers(halcomp,builder,useropts):
return [HandlerClass(halcomp,builder,useropts)]

# The class name can be considered more boler code in most cases
# inside the class we will have function/methods for doing our dirty work
#
class HandlerClass:

# This function is run only once when first started initialization  (__init_)
# The form of this, you may consider boiler code.
# It gives you access to gladeVCP's hal, builder and user options
def __init__(self, halcomp,builder,useropts):

# This is just to be sure the code got run at start up
# You will see this printed in a terminal if one is open
# once you know this handler file is called properly
# you can comment over this - but this is a good technique to debug code
# you can also print the value of stuff th same way
print got here

# by adding this statement with 'self' gives us access to builder
# outside on the __INI__ function. In this example we don't need it
# but usually you have more code that will
self.builder = builder

# First we must make a 'reference' to the widgets we want
# The reference name 

Re: [Emc-users] Adjusting Work Coordinates and Offsets?

2013-01-20 Thread Todd Zuercher
This idea does sound very interesting. Now how do I do it?

- Original Message -
On Sunday 20 January 2013 12:41:50 andy pugh did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On 17 January 2013 22:19, Todd  Zuercher
 
 zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  The machine operators often need to make small adjustments to the
  depth of the carving, bumping it up or down a few thousanths.
 
 For that particular use-case it might be appropriate to have a PyVCP
 slider connected directly to a HAL offset function.

I'm drooling over over that possibility Andy, it would be handier than 
bottled beer or sliced bread! 


Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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My views 
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Linux -- Have you administered a real OS today?
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Todd Zuercher
mailto:zuerc...@embarqmail.com



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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Sven Wesley
2013/1/20 Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com

 Thank You, guys, for the answers!

 2013/1/20 Sven Wesley svenne.d...@gmail.com:
  All my cars have, and all my former cars had, electrical heaters. You
 don't
  need a pump.
  There are universal models that sits in the cooler hose that works
  flawlessly.

 Well, there has to be something that makes the fluid to circulate.
 Either it is a pump, which allows to place the heater anywhere with
 respect to motor. Or let the fluid circulate naturally, based on the
 fact that warmer liquid has smaller density so it moves up... But this
 approach requires to position the heater carefully with the motor
 block. It will not just work anywhere...

 I suspect that Your electrical heating units have a pump already built
 in...


No, THERE IS NO EXTRA PUMP. Ever.

I have a brand new Toyota with a block heater. Guess what?
T.h.e.r.e. .i.s. .n.o. .p.u.m.p.

Heat transports itself, either via the water or the engine block. If I
leave the heater on the wind shield starts to defrost. Why? Because hot
water moves. And no, there's no pump. ;)

/S
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Re: [Emc-users] Adjusting Work Coordinates and Offsets?

2013-01-20 Thread andy pugh
On 20 January 2013 20:46, Todd  Zuercher
zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 This idea does sound very interesting. Now how do I do it?

http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/man/man9/offset.9.html

Insert between Z-command and Z-motor-position.

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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread andy pugh
On 19 January 2013 21:22, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 There are lots of options for auxiliary heating with fuel and
 electricity.

Strangely enough, despite living somewhere where -5C is unusually
cold, I know quite a bit about this subject.

Nearly any modern car will have provision somewhere on the engine for
a block heater. It is also likely to be in the right place too. Have
you looked for a manufacturer-original part?

There is no pump with an electrical block heater.

Fuel-fired heaters tend to have a pump (Webasto ones, for example). As
you have spotted, these are not cheap.

Warm oil and warm battery are more critical for cold-start in diesel
engines than coolant temperature.

(One week tomorrow I am off for 2 weeks in Rovaniemi doing cold
climate development, though my particular interest is in cabin heater
and oil pump performance rather than cold start)

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Adjusting Work Coordinates and Offsets?

2013-01-20 Thread sam sokolik
I have used this to offset my z axis in proportion to spindle growth 
from heat.

I did also put a limit3 before it the offset hal component so that it 
limited the distance, acceleration and velocity.

sam

On 01/20/2013 03:25 PM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 20 January 2013 20:46, Todd  Zuercher
 zuerc...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 This idea does sound very interesting. Now how do I do it?
 http://www.linuxcnc.org/docs/html/man/man9/offset.9.html

 Insert between Z-command and Z-motor-position.



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Re: [Emc-users] G76?

2013-01-20 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 20 January 2013 18:45:33 Dave Caroline did opine:
Message additions Copyright Sunday 20 January 2013 by Gene Heskett

 On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 2:49 AM, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Greetings all;
  
  Has anyone cut any threads with g76 lately?
 
 yes and I checked the change log looking for updates to see if any
 changes were made

Dave, call the St. Bernard's back in, I found it.  Turns out that when I 
was trying to make the encoder wheel out of alu, I was using a 1/16 mill 
and 39 slots was all I could get to fit. That figure got welded into my 
brain because I only made about 10 of them.  But when I gave up on that 
after having obtained some smaller mills for pcb's, and made the last one 
out of brass, I had changed the number of cycles in that code to 50 because 
I now had a narrower slot.  And just promptly forgot it.  That faint 
banging from the general direction of north central WV?  Me, beating head 
on shop door.  I think (I hope anyway) it will feel good when I stop.

So go cut a switch  give me fifty virtual lashes for wasting your time.

Now I need to figure out a way to hit the home switch with x, and get the 
same radius cut regardless of the tool, since I am in fact measuring the 
mounted tool.  And I seem to be getting about a .020 offset between the 
two tools I have checked so far.

Oh, and I'll need wade thru the .hal file and recalibrate the spindle 
tachometer display.  Minor detail.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene is up!
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[Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread Clint Washburn
I am looking to find out how these wire labels were made.  Here is an
example
http://www.clintandheidi.com/multimedia/pictures/hitachiseiki/Tailstock+Jun
ction.JPG.php .  I don't even know what they call them.  They are not heat
shrink.  They are kind of a sleeve that helps insulate the bare terminal.
The lathe was made in Japan.  I cannot seem to find anything on these
markers.

 

Can anyone help me on this?

 

Also what are some of the ways everyone is marking their wires?  I have
found many types, Heat shrink tubing markers,  Laser Labels with clear
shrink tubing,  zip tie placards etc. Which are the most durable.

 

 

Thanks,

Clint Washburn

 

 

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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Sven Wesley
2013/1/20 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com

 Nearly any modern car will have provision somewhere on the engine for
 a block heater. It is also likely to be in the right place too. Have
 you looked for a manufacturer-original part?


Nearly every engine ever built sinces the 60's, I would say. Even my Volvo
Amazon had one, and they really were built during the 60's.

Webastos have a pump if they're supposed to heat up the coupe too and not
only the engine.
My VW Touran has a Webasto without a pump, they have a burner as standard
equipment because the TDI's doesn't come up in temp without it when it's
cold outside and as an extra you can buy a timer or remote for preheating.
My brother's Volvo XC60 has a Webasto with pump, while he gets a cozy seat
I get a frost free wind shield at its best. On the other hand, the car is
at working temp after one or two minutes of driving if the heater was on.

Like Andy says, what's your car? There will be a heater.
http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/find_your_engine_heater/

/S
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Re: [Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread Jon Elson
Clint Washburn wrote:
 I am looking to find out how these wire labels were made.  Here is an
 example
 http://www.clintandheidi.com/multimedia/pictures/hitachiseiki/Tailstock+Jun
 ction.JPG.php
I think Brady and Thomas  Betts made systems to do these.  They had a 
proprietary
printer that transferred the printing onto sheets of these slip-on 
markers.  I suspect
this system is obsolete and you can't get the materials anymore, but I 
remember
the Newark, etc. catalogs had pages on these systems over a decade ago.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread Bruce Layne
That process is thermal transfer (aka hot stamping) onto poly tubing.  
I've used them to slide over crimp ferrules.  They do make some neat 
wire labels for terminals.

One manufacturer is Cembre.

http://www.cembre.com/US/U_NewsSiglatura.htm

I had a Brady ID Pro, but the rechargeable battery died and the vinyl 
wrap around wire labels are a bit pricy.  For the way I work now, I do 
favor print-as-I-go methods, as opposed to drawing the schematic with 
the wire numbers and printing all of the wire labels I should need up 
front.  Some people laser print labels.

I have a Zebra 2844 thermal transfer address label printer and the 
labels are very inexpensive.  I'm thinking of using that printer to 
print the wire labels from a spreadsheet, and then sliding clear heat 
shrink over it to keep the adhesive label from unrolling.  The only down 
side is an overheating wire would turn the thermal label completely 
black, but if that happens I have bigger problems than illegible wire 
labels.



On 01/20/2013 06:41 PM, Clint Washburn wrote:
 I am looking to find out how these wire labels were made.  Here is an
 example
 http://www.clintandheidi.com/multimedia/pictures/hitachiseiki/Tailstock+Jun
 ction.JPG.php .  I don't even know what they call them.  They are not heat
 shrink.  They are kind of a sleeve that helps insulate the bare terminal.
 The lathe was made in Japan.  I cannot seem to find anything on these
 markers.

   

 Can anyone help me on this?

   

 Also what are some of the ways everyone is marking their wires?  I have
 found many types, Heat shrink tubing markers,  Laser Labels with clear
 shrink tubing,  zip tie placards etc. Which are the most durable.



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Re: [Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread Charles Steinkuehler
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

If you just want some label markers and not that specific type,
Panduit has quite a variety.  I personally like the printable
self-laminating labels:

http://www.panduit.com/wcs/Satellite?c=Pagechildpagename=Panduit_Global%2FPG_Layoutcid=1345564329023packedargs=classification_id%3D2400%26locale%3Den_uspagename=PG_Wrapper

...and the marker/flag wire ties:

http://www.panduit.com/heiler/CatalogCutSheets/PLF1M-C%20Product%20Page-1.pdf

On 1/20/2013 7:25 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
 That process is thermal transfer (aka hot stamping) onto poly
 tubing. I've used them to slide over crimp ferrules.  They do make
 some neat wire labels for terminals.
 
 One manufacturer is Cembre.
 
 http://www.cembre.com/US/U_NewsSiglatura.htm
 
 I had a Brady ID Pro, but the rechargeable battery died and the
 vinyl wrap around wire labels are a bit pricy.  For the way I work
 now, I do favor print-as-I-go methods, as opposed to drawing the
 schematic with the wire numbers and printing all of the wire labels
 I should need up front.  Some people laser print labels.
 
 I have a Zebra 2844 thermal transfer address label printer and the
  labels are very inexpensive.  I'm thinking of using that printer
 to print the wire labels from a spreadsheet, and then sliding clear
 heat shrink over it to keep the adhesive label from unrolling.  The
 only down side is an overheating wire would turn the thermal label
 completely black, but if that happens I have bigger problems than
 illegible wire labels.
 
 
 
 On 01/20/2013 06:41 PM, Clint Washburn wrote:
 I am looking to find out how these wire labels were made.  Here
 is an example 
 http://www.clintandheidi.com/multimedia/pictures/hitachiseiki/Tailstock+Jun

 
ction.JPG.php .  I don't even know what they call them.  They are not heat
 shrink.  They are kind of a sleeve that helps insulate the bare
 terminal. The lathe was made in Japan.  I cannot seem to find
 anything on these markers.
 
 
 
 Can anyone help me on this?
 
 
 
 Also what are some of the ways everyone is marking their wires?
 I have found many types, Heat shrink tubing markers,  Laser
 Labels with clear shrink tubing,  zip tie placards etc. Which are
 the most durable.
 
 
 
 --

 
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-BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-
Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (MingW32)
Comment: Using GnuPG with Thunderbird - http://www.enigmail.net/

iEYEARECAAYFAlD8nLMACgkQLywbqEHdNFyEbQCg/dMto80qdm5Vu1sSqJ5R+KpK
R4MAoNJZVwYk3xGuMSgK+K7QuSFZv5YA
=TOeG
-END PGP SIGNATURE-

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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Przemek Klosowski
On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 4:22 PM, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.comwrote:

 Winter has arrived with temperatures below -20C, so I finally decided
 to something about inability to start up car's engine in these cold
 mornings.
 There are lots of options for auxiliary heating with fuel and
 electricity. I found on ebay a nice heater that works from fuel, but
 it costs some 600 EUR.


The simplest solution is an incandescent shop light on an extension cord
that you just drop into the  engine compartment and keep on through the
night. 60W bulb should provide enough heat. Of course  CFL or LED bulbs
aren't hot enough to work...
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Re: [Emc-users] OT - liquid pump for really cold temperature

2013-01-20 Thread Peter Loron
We just had a cheap add-on mains-powered block heater (inline with the cooling 
system, as I recall) in our gas cars when we lived in upstate New York. -20C 
was common in the winter.

-Pete

On Jan 20, 2013, at 4:09 PM, Sven Wesley svenne.d...@gmail.com wrote:

 2013/1/20 andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com
 
 Nearly any modern car will have provision somewhere on the engine for
 a block heater. It is also likely to be in the right place too. Have
 you looked for a manufacturer-original part?
 
 
 Nearly every engine ever built sinces the 60's, I would say. Even my Volvo
 Amazon had one, and they really were built during the 60's.
 
 Webastos have a pump if they're supposed to heat up the coupe too and not
 only the engine.
 My VW Touran has a Webasto without a pump, they have a burner as standard
 equipment because the TDI's doesn't come up in temp without it when it's
 cold outside and as an extra you can buy a timer or remote for preheating.
 My brother's Volvo XC60 has a Webasto with pump, while he gets a cozy seat
 I get a frost free wind shield at its best. On the other hand, the car is
 at working temp after one or two minutes of driving if the heater was on.
 
 Like Andy says, what's your car? There will be a heater.
 http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/find_your_engine_heater/
 
 /S
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Re: [Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread Karl Schmidt
On 01/20/2013 07:41 PM, Charles Steinkuehler wrote:
 -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
 Hash: SHA1

 If you just want some label markers and not that specific type,
 Panduit has quite a variety.  I personally like the printable
 self-laminating labels:

 http://www.panduit.com/wcs/Satellite?c=Pagechildpagename=Panduit_Global%2FPG_Layoutcid=1345564329023packedargs=classification_id%3D2400%26locale%3Den_uspagename=PG_Wrapper

 ...and the marker/flag wire ties:

 http://www.panduit.com/heiler/CatalogCutSheets/PLF1M-C%20Product%20Page-1.pdf


Where can I get some of these in a small quantity?





Karl Schmidt  EMail k...@xtronics.com
Transtronics, Inc.  WEB 
http://secure.transtronics.com
3209 West 9th Street Ph (785) 841-3089
Lawrence, KS 66049  FAX (785) 841-0434

It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal education.
-Albert Einstein



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Re: [Emc-users] Wire Labeling

2013-01-20 Thread TJoseph Powderly
On 01/20/2013 09:53 PM, Karl Schmidt wrote:
 On 01/20/2013 07:41 PM, Charles Steinkuehler wrote:
 -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
 Hash: SHA1

 If you just want some label markers and not that specific type,
 Panduit has quite a variety.  I personally like the printable
 self-laminating labels:

 http://www.panduit.com/wcs/Satellite?c=Pagechildpagename=Panduit_Global%2FPG_Layoutcid=1345564329023packedargs=classification_id%3D2400%26locale%3Den_uspagename=PG_Wrapper

 ...and the marker/flag wire ties:

 http://www.panduit.com/heiler/CatalogCutSheets/PLF1M-C%20Product%20Page-1.pdf

 Where can I get some of these in a small quantity?




 
 Karl Schmidt  EMail k...@xtronics.com
 Transtronics, Inc.  WEB 
 http://secure.transtronics.com
 3209 West 9th Street Ph (785) 841-3089
 Lawrence, KS 66049  FAX (785) 841-0434

 It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal education.
 -Albert Einstein

 

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ACT  makes these AL-04-18-ID-9-C
saw 100 packs 10$ on ebay

but i use these wrap on labels myself
Ziptape Rite  Wrap  RW52
a scotch tape dispenser is $12
300 labels
clear sticky part is long enuf to wrap over the writing to protect it
can be wrapped like a flag or a tube, lo tech  cheap

and for the low cost hitech marker,
a K-Sun Bee printer is good,
you just cant get good deals on the printable tubing tho. ( i havent yet )

regards
TomP

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[Emc-users] Mesa 7i43 and estop

2013-01-20 Thread Bruce Klawiter
I can't seem to find this information anywhere, if I use the Mesa 7i33 any I/O 
and 7i33 servo interface with LinuxCNC, if I hit the estop will I lose position 
and need to re-home my machine? 

Bruce
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Re: [Emc-users] Mesa 7i43 and estop

2013-01-20 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
On 01/20/2013 10:03 PM, Bruce Klawiter wrote:
 I can't seem to find this information anywhere, if I use the Mesa 7i33 any 
 I/O and 7i33 servo interface with LinuxCNC, if I hit the estop will I lose 
 position and need to re-home my machine?

The 7i33 is a servo amp, so I'll assume you're asking about a servo 
machine.  With hostmot2 the machine still tracks the encoders during 
estop, so you do not lose position and you do not need to re-home.

On stepper machines, of course you always lose position when the 
steppers lose power, so you'd need to re-home after estop.


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