Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Bill Dube via EV]

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Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits? (EV emissions reduction)

[Mark Abramowitz via EV]

 
Certainly your situation is possible, and perhaps the duty cycle for others is 
the same. But many people gave two cars, Leaf owners average more cars that the 
other owners. Why do they need it? Because the extra car that others don't have 
may be an ICE?

Sent from AltaMail


 From: Robert Bruninga via EV  To: Electric Vehicle 
Discussion List  Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion 
Kits? (EV emissions reduction) Date: 10/26/16, 12:19 PM

 
> Also disturbing was the fact that a Leaf owners own more 
> cars per household, and seem to use ICE vehicles regularly. 
> So we're not getting some of the emission reductions we anticipated. 
 
That conclusion does not follow. 
 
If my wife and I have two cars, and we get an EV and we keep a prius for 
trips to gramma's, then we are still getting 100% of the emissions 
reduction for the EV.  In fact, the one of us with the longest commute on 
any day will use the EV and so we may actually be getting more than 100% 
emissions reduction for that that EV. 
 
Bob, WB4APR 
 
 
-Original Message- 
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Mark Abramowitz 
via EV 
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:51 AM 
To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits? 
 
It's not easy to break some of this out, but a recent study in California 
showed that those that bought plug-in hybrids were less likely to plug it 
in as frequently (or at all), the lower the ZE miles were. 
Also disturbing was the fact that a Leaf owners own more cars per 
household, and seem to use ICE vehicles regularly. So we're not getting 
some of the emission reductions we anticipated. 
 
 
Sent from AltaMail 
 
 
 From: EVDL Administrator via EV  To: Electric Vehicle 
Discussion List  Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car 
Conversion Kits? Date: 10/25/16, 7:35 PM 
 
 
On 25 Oct 2016 at 6:22, paul dove via EV wrote: 
 
> Yes but was it a reliable source? 
 
Good question.  I saw it quoted somewhere and have been trying to trace it 
back to the source.  I hit a dead end at edmunds.com. Looking there I find 
 
not the 2/3 figure, but an even worse one -- 72.5%. 
 
Important distinction though: the Edmunds article is referring not to just 
EVs, but also to hybrids.  Absent any further elucidation on their part, I 
take that as all types including those which don't plug in and use only 
liquid fuel (gasoline/petrol). 
 
They lump these all together as "alt-fuel," which is bogus unless you 
somehow consider "not coal" or "not wood" an alternative fuel. 
 
That puts things in a different perspective.  For your average vehicle 
buyer, it doesn't take much effort or commitment to switch to a "hybrid" 
which acts just like a conventional car except that it uses less fuel and 
 
doesn't idle when stopped. 
 
So, fuel prices have gone down, and folks who bought (probably mostly) 
Toyota Prii when fuel prices were higher are switching back to -- it turns 
 
out -- by and large, small SUVs.  Big deal. 
 
More: Edmunds doesn't cite their sources, which makes me a little 
suspicious 
of this number. 
 
So on further research and reflection I have to conclude that there's 
probably nothing much to see here. 
 
If you'd like to read the original article, search for "Hybrid and EV 
Loyalty Plunges Due to Low Gas Prices." 
 
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA 
EVDL Administrator 
 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

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Re: [EVDL] Thanks for the Smart ED, iMiEV and Leaf Info

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Lawrence
That's good to know.  So you have the 4 year 50k mile warranty I assume.  
That's good you can use the standard Obd2 reader.  I have to get something 
special for the Leaf.  I'd feel more comfortable if I could get a shop manual 
since the local Mercedes dealer said they refuse to work on the Smart cars want 
the higher profit margin of the pricey Mercedes line.  I'm also concerned that 
you can't get a battery for a reasonable price quoted $29k from the parts dept 
in Winston Salem NC and Germantown Md so you'd have to throw the car away after 
50k miles of the battery poops out.  I also couldn't find individual cells on 
the net like the Leaf to repair a pack. 
Best regards
Msrk

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:46 PM, Lawrence Harris  wrote:
> 
> As far as I know there is no option to rent the battery in Canada so no I 
> don’t pay monthly.  I have not tried to read the fault codes or such, it’s on 
> my list of todo’s someday but it’s a standard ODB2 connector so basic code 
> reading is not a problem, i have had codes read on my old smart car by third 
> parties no problem.  Monitoring the battery would be a useful option, I have 
> not deeply investigated that yet.  Once I get an ODB2 reader I’ll probably 
> see what I can find out.  Most of the other data for basic kw/km etc is on 
> the dash display so I have not really felt the need to read the low lever 
> data.  I really like the leaf spy but don’t immediately see something similar 
> for other cars.  I bought it new in Dec 2013.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Lawrence
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 13:54, Mark Hanson  wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks Lawrence 
>> Do you have to pay $80 per month for battery rental?   Or did you pay more 
>> to own the battery?  Can you read the individual cell voltages?  Can you 
>> read the fault codes through the Obd connector or do you need a special 
>> reader?  Did you buy it used or new?
>> Best regards
>> Mark
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:55 PM, Lawrence Harris  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just to add my own view here.  I have had a smartED 2013 for three years 
>>> and it’s been a great car.  I drive it pretty much daily and it’s been a 
>>> dream to drive, fast and agile, tons of space to carry stuff.  Basically 
>>> perfectly suited to city driving.  As for service my local MB dealer has 
>>> been good and the basic service costs are very much on par with anything I 
>>> have ever owned (mainly Nissan’s) except they are overall cheaper than my 
>>> gas cars without all the parts that need to be replaced and oil changes 
>>> etc.  I too would like to own the service manuals but in reality I won’t 
>>> ever be digging that deeply into self service.  I gave that up many years 
>>> back when the cars became mostly electronically controlled.  The mechanics 
>>> I can get serviced anywhere as the base car is the same as the gas and 
>>> diesel versions.  After three years my battery seems to holding up just 
>>> fine, my range is the same or even slightly more than when I bought it - 
>>> might be just the estimator learning my driving style.
>>> 
>>> That said, if I had kids I would have probably bought a leaf at the time 
>>> and today I would consider the iMev or the KEA Soul EV which looks really 
>>> nice if I need a bigger car any time soon.   For now I am waiting for the 
>>> 400+ km car with fast charger for my next one.
>>> 
>>> As for conversions I did look into this some years back when I had my 
>>> diesel smart but for many reasons including cost and performance it just 
>>> didn’t seem like a good option.  I think with all the good EV’s on the 
>>> market today the only vehicle worth converting would be a truck as there is 
>>> nothing yet in that category though I expect that too will change fairly 
>>> soon.
>>> 
>>> Lawrence
>>> 
 On Oct 25, 2016, at 18:24, Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
 
 Thanks Cor, Dave etc for the thoughtful Smart, iMiEV and Leaf info.  
 
 
 
 Since I already have a Leaf (like it very much but my son latched onto it
 and would like a smaller commuter car) when I replace my Karmann Ghia EV
 next month I'll probably buy a iMiEV since I see online service manuals
 available, individual battery monitoring and the same 100K 8 year battery
 warranty like the Leaf has (also saw a few Chevy Spark compliance cars but
 little support).  It looks like according to www.batteryuniversity.com that
 both vehicles(Leaf & iMiEV) use the NMC nickel- manganese- cobalt cathode
 with lithium substrate and carbon anode by LG Chem? I think the 2016 Smart
 will too.  So the iMiEV should have similar life and both air cooled not
 complicated water cooled like the Smart ED.  I drove a Smart ED and really
 liked the car but if I can't service it (or get it serviced for a 
 reasonable
 price) then it's a no-go.  I wish Swatch kept it or sold through another
 company other than Mercedes Benz (most MB wheele

[EVDL] Fwd: Thanks for the Smart ED, iMiEV and Leaf Info

[Mark Hanson via EV]

onvert a Smart Car and does anyone
>>> know of a good conversion kit?  The problem with the Smart ED as I was
>>> looking at a used 2014 is they want a $80 monthly battery rental fee for ten
>>> years or $9600 on top of the car price. Also there is *no* service manual
>>> available from Mercedes.  I called several Smart dealers and they said their
>>> service department can't even get a service manual.  Also I can't find any
>>> way to monitor the individual cells like my Leaf or iMiev   And If you buy
>>> the battery for an additional $5k the warranty is only 4 years and 50k
>>> miles. Battery replacement cost is $29k verified at several dealers.  The
>>> Leaf and iMiev are 100k 8 year warranty and the Leaf is $5.5k to replace and
>>> the iMiev is about $12k a dealer said.  I'm thinking of selling my Ghia
>>> www.evalbum.com/4346 and buying a used iMiev or Smart ED. I already have a
>>> Leaf that my son drives mostly and both EVs are charged from the sun. 
>>> 
>>> Have a renewable energy day
>>> 
>>> Mark
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Message: 3
>>> 
>>> Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2016 14:08:47 -0700
>>> 
>>> From: Cor van de Water via EV 
>>> 
>>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
>>> 
>>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits?
>>> 
>>> Message-ID:
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Everything screams to me that the Smart is a nice car for Leasing but stay
>>> away if you want to buy! Every car is going to be an orphan as soon as you
>>> buy it and it has very limited space so unless you are lucky with the car
>>> and the battery and nothing breaks - it appears that you are on your own or
>>> have to fork over whatever ransom Mercedes asks to work on the car for you.
>>> 
>>> For proof, look at the unrealistic battery price, it is several times more
>>> than the cost of the battery, so why bother if there are so many better
>>> alternatives?
>>> 
>>> I love my Leaf so much, I now have two. Since I need space to work on my
>>> electric truck, I am going to sell one. It has some damage but hardly
>>> noticeable and does not affect the operation at all. Good battery, still has
>>> 12 bars though I suspect will lose bar 12 soon. Car is a 2011 Leaf SV,
>>> battery has lived in Washington until 3 months ago when it moved to
>>> California, that is why it still has good capacity. Send me an email if you
>>> are interested.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Cor van de Water
>>> 
>>> Chief Scientist
>>> 
>>> Proxim Wireless 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
>>> 
>>> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Have a renewable energy day,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Mark
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Mark E. Hanson
>>> 
>>> 184 Vista Lane
>>> 
>>> Fincastle, VA 24090
>>> 
>>> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
>>> 
>>> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
>>> 
>>> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
>>> 
>>> UL Certified PV Installer
>>> 
>>> My RE&EV Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Tom Keenan via EV]

I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805 
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature 
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine 
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges. 

Tom Keenan

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV  
> wrote:
> 
> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
> if it is too light...
> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
> the position of the needle. 
> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
> below
> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
> 
> Success!
> 
> Cor van de Water 
> Chief Scientist 
> Proxim Wireless 
> 
> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 
> 
> http://www.proxim.com
> 
> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
> unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of
> this message is prohibited.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
> have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
> the devices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: EV  on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> 
> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
> the tank
> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
> 
> Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Cor van de Water via EV]

Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
if it is too light...
You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
the position of the needle. 
No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
below
about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.

Success!

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 

http://www.proxim.com

This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
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-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
have at present  a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
the devices.




From: EV  on behalf of Bill Collins via EV

Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone


The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank sensor?  
Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the PCM, and the PCM 
output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure out the PCM signal type 
or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you have at present  a gauge and 
Amp transmitter and determine their signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get 
the spec or you may damage the devices.




From: EV  on behalf of Bill Collins via EV 

Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone


The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits? (EV emissions reduction)

[Robert Bruninga via EV]

> Also disturbing was the fact that a Leaf owners own more
> cars per household, and seem to use ICE vehicles regularly.
> So we're not getting some of the emission reductions we anticipated.

That conclusion does not follow.

If my wife and I have two cars, and we get an EV and we keep a prius for
trips to gramma's, then we are still getting 100% of the emissions
reduction for the EV.  In fact, the one of us with the longest commute on
any day will use the EV and so we may actually be getting more than 100%
emissions reduction for that that EV.

Bob, WB4APR


-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Mark Abramowitz
via EV
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:51 AM
To: EVDL Administrator; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits?

It's not easy to break some of this out, but a recent study in California
showed that those that bought plug-in hybrids were less likely to plug it
in as frequently (or at all), the lower the ZE miles were.
Also disturbing was the fact that a Leaf owners own more cars per
household, and seem to use ICE vehicles regularly. So we're not getting
some of the emission reductions we anticipated.


Sent from AltaMail


 From: EVDL Administrator via EV  To: Electric Vehicle
Discussion List  Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car
Conversion Kits? Date: 10/25/16, 7:35 PM


On 25 Oct 2016 at 6:22, paul dove via EV wrote:

> Yes but was it a reliable source?

Good question.  I saw it quoted somewhere and have been trying to trace it
back to the source.  I hit a dead end at edmunds.com. Looking there I find

not the 2/3 figure, but an even worse one -- 72.5%.

Important distinction though: the Edmunds article is referring not to just
EVs, but also to hybrids.  Absent any further elucidation on their part, I
take that as all types including those which don't plug in and use only
liquid fuel (gasoline/petrol).

They lump these all together as "alt-fuel," which is bogus unless you
somehow consider "not coal" or "not wood" an alternative fuel.

That puts things in a different perspective.  For your average vehicle
buyer, it doesn't take much effort or commitment to switch to a "hybrid"
which acts just like a conventional car except that it uses less fuel and

doesn't idle when stopped.

So, fuel prices have gone down, and folks who bought (probably mostly)
Toyota Prii when fuel prices were higher are switching back to -- it turns

out -- by and large, small SUVs.  Big deal.

More: Edmunds doesn't cite their sources, which makes me a little
suspicious
of this number.

So on further research and reflection I have to conclude that there's
probably nothing much to see here.

If you'd like to read the original article, search for "Hybrid and EV
Loyalty Plunges Due to Low Gas Prices."

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Bill Collins via EV]

The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.

Bill
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Re: [EVDL] Thanks for the Smart ED, iMiEV and Leaf Info

[Lawrence Harris via EV]

016 14:08:47 -0700
> 
> From: Cor van de Water via EV 
> 
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 
> 
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>  
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> 
> Everything screams to me that the Smart is a nice car for Leasing but stay
> away if you want to buy! Every car is going to be an orphan as soon as you
> buy it and it has very limited space so unless you are lucky with the car
> and the battery and nothing breaks - it appears that you are on your own or
> have to fork over whatever ransom Mercedes asks to work on the car for you.
> 
> For proof, look at the unrealistic battery price, it is several times more
> than the cost of the battery, so why bother if there are so many better
> alternatives?
> 
> I love my Leaf so much, I now have two. Since I need space to work on my
> electric truck, I am going to sell one. It has some damage but hardly
> noticeable and does not affect the operation at all. Good battery, still has
> 12 bars though I suspect will lose bar 12 soon. Car is a 2011 Leaf SV,
> battery has lived in Washington until 3 months ago when it moved to
> California, that is why it still has good capacity. Send me an email if you
> are interested.
> 
> 
> 
> Cor van de Water
> 
> Chief Scientist
> 
> Proxim Wireless 
> 
> 
> 
> office +1 408 383 7626Skype: cor_van_de_water 
> 
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130private: cvandewater.info 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a renewable energy day,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> Mark E. Hanson
> 
> 184 Vista Lane
> 
> Fincastle, VA 24090
> 
> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
> 
> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
> 
> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
> 
> UL Certified PV Installer
> 
> My RE&EV Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[ROBERT via EV]

 don't see
>> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
>> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
>> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.
>>
>> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
>> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
>> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
>> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
>> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
>> Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
>> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
>> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
>> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
>> first quarter of the SOC.
>>
>>
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Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion Kits?

[Mark Abramowitz via EV]

It's not easy to break some of this out, but a recent study in California 
showed that those that bought plug-in hybrids were less likely to plug it in as 
frequently (or at all), the lower the ZE miles were. 
Also disturbing was the fact that a Leaf owners own more cars per household, 
and seem to use ICE vehicles regularly. So we're not getting some of the 
emission reductions we anticipated.


Sent from AltaMail


 From: EVDL Administrator via EV  To: Electric Vehicle 
Discussion List  Subject: Re: [EVDL] Smart Car Conversion 
Kits? Date: 10/25/16, 7:35 PM

 
On 25 Oct 2016 at 6:22, paul dove via EV wrote: 
 
> Yes but was it a reliable source? 
 
Good question.  I saw it quoted somewhere and have been trying to trace it  
back to the source.  I hit a dead end at edmunds.com. Looking there I find  
not the 2/3 figure, but an even worse one -- 72.5%.
 
Important distinction though: the Edmunds article is referring not to just  
EVs, but also to hybrids.  Absent any further elucidation on their part, I  
take that as all types including those which don't plug in and use only  
liquid fuel (gasoline/petrol).
 
They lump these all together as "alt-fuel," which is bogus unless you  
somehow consider "not coal" or "not wood" an alternative fuel.
 
That puts things in a different perspective.  For your average vehicle  
buyer, it doesn't take much effort or commitment to switch to a "hybrid"  
which acts just like a conventional car except that it uses less fuel and  
doesn't idle when stopped. 
 
So, fuel prices have gone down, and folks who bought (probably mostly)  
Toyota Prii when fuel prices were higher are switching back to -- it turns  
out -- by and large, small SUVs.  Big deal.
 
More: Edmunds doesn't cite their sources, which makes me a little suspicious  
of this number. 
 
So on further research and reflection I have to conclude that there's  
probably nothing much to see here.   
 
If you'd like to read the original article, search for "Hybrid and EV  
Loyalty Plunges Due to Low Gas Prices." 
 
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA 
EVDL Administrator 
 
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/ 
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =  
Note: mail sent to "evpost" and "etpost" addresses will not  
reach me.  To send a private message, please obtain my  
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ . 
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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Rick Beebe via EV]

I actually have a Zeva sitting on my workbench. It had the same problem. I 
replaced it with the AutoblockAMP in large part because of the programmability 
of the latter plus the packaging is much more industrial.

Thanks Bill. I'm actually quite versed in Arduinos. I built a battery box heat 
controller using a Pro Mini, a relay board and some temperature probes. I have 
an ISAScale high precision shunt with CANBus output that I'm playing with that 
I'll use an Arduino to read and to display SOC, Amps, etc on a small LCD that 
I'll imbed in the dash. I actually do have that setup driving a fuel gauge. I 
was resisting going that route for this just because I also have to find a 
place to put it, get an appropriate power supply, etc. But it may be the best 
option.

--Rick

> On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:33 AM, Tom Keenan  wrote:
> 
> I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge 
> driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. 
> http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144
> You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you 
> have, just made in Australia. 
> Tom Keenan
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
>> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
>> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
>> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
>> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
>> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
>> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
>> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
>> the fuel gauge to show SOC.
>> 
>> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
>> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
>> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
>> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
>> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
>> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
>> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
>> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
>> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.
>> 
>> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
>> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
>> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
>> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
>> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
>> Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
>> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
>> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
>> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
>> first quarter of the SOC.
>> 
>> 
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[EVDL] EVLN: EV-newswire posts for 20161026

[brucedp5 via EV]

http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-How-Owning-an-electric-car-can-save-you-time-and-money-with-Chevy-Bolt-EV-td4684196.html
EVLN: How Owning an electric car can save you time and money with Chevy Bolt
EV
 ... If you are trying to live a better lifestyle and what to save money
over the long haul, you may want to make your next car an electric one ...

http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-A-guide-on-how-to-charge-a-UK-electric-car-td4684195.html
EVLN: A guide on how to charge a UK electric car
Charging an electric car's batteries is a big issue for electric car owners.
Without enough charge, you may not be able to complete your planned journey.
So how ...

http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/EVLN-Vancouver-ca-Mayor-promotes-new-electric-buses-for-TransLink-r-250km-td4684194.html
EVLN: Vancouver.ca Mayor promotes new electric buses for TransLink r:250km
Vancouver Mayor Gregor Robertson talked clean clean transit Thursday ... It
has to be able to get up the hills and obviously make it through Canadian
winters.” ...

+
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/More-drivers-use-city-s-free-EVSE-in-Steamboat-Springs-CO-td4684197.html
More drivers use city's free EVSE in Steamboat_Springs-CO
 ... Springs' electric vehicle charging station on 10th Street has charged
up electric vehicles 232 ..




http://evdl.org/evln/
For all EVLN EV-newswire posts


{brucedp.0catch.com}

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Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone

[Tom Keenan via EV]

I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge 
driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. 
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144
You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you have, 
just made in Australia. 
Tom Keenan

> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a
> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced
> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly,
> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures
> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on
> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up
> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that,
> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive
> the fuel gauge to show SOC.
> 
> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single
> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms
> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't
> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does
> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial
> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see
> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I
> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage
> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full.
> 
> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some
> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards."
> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first
> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of
> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale.
> Plus  if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end
> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a
> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't
> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the
> first quarter of the SOC.
> 
> 
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