Re: [h-cost] Working with velvet
At 08:46 PM 11/28/2005, you wrote: Anyone have some favorite velvet tricks they'd like to share? It's been ages since I worked with the stuff. I'm particularly concerned about dealing with areas where multiple layers meet. I'm doing an early Stuart informal doublet with set in sleeves and epaulettes. That's a lot of layers. In wool, I'd just grade down the interfacing then steam it to a fair-thee-well and whack the whole think with a clapper. If I do that on velvet I'll have a nasty squished mess. Got any hints? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hmmm... use a walking foot; baste with silk thread first, not just pins; grade with pinking shears and not too close to the seam line, or the turned edge will fray over time. Use a velvet board or fluffy dry towel or another piece of velvet to press with. There isn't much I've been able to do with multiple layers, other than to grade carefully and try to place as few seams in overlapping places as I can. May I ask why both a set in sleeve and the epaulettes? Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
I've never owned a steam iron and neither has my Mum. Now that I have a tumble dryer, I only give the clothes a short tumble (which shakes the worst creases out of knitted cotton garments) and iron them while still damp. If they have got too dry I spray them with water. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29/11/2005 20:20 wrote: I once did the ironing for the priest on my campus (the linens we use at mass and such). He had washed them but did not put them in the dryer. To keep them wet he kept them in the ridge and then while you ironed you not only took out all wrinkles but also dried them!! Another side effect is having a slight steam facial. lol. Since I am a poor student- and I dropped my iron at the beginning of last year so it leaks when I do put water in it. I have resorted to this method which really does work! Katy- an eager learner. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email __ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
In a message dated 11/30/2005 4:15:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've never owned a steam iron and neither has my Mum. Now that I have a tumble dryer, I only give the clothes a short tumble (which shakes the worst creases out of knitted cotton garments) and iron them while still damp. If they have got too dry I spray them with water. I've found that a steam iron is required to do modern (or even 19th century) tailoring. I'm currently still using my Norelco; however, when it dies, I will be in the same pickle, as Norelco doesn't make steam irons anymore. I've found Black and Decker not very satisfactory. Haven't tried a Rowenta, but I had a Rowenta toaster once, and the thermostat never seemed to be consistent, so haven't high hopes for an iron. May consider a Sunbeam when the time comes. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. When behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing. Presently, I am enjoying the Sunbeam...especially since I discovered how to use the self -cleaning mode. I can even get the 'burst of steam' which was also a best feature with the Rowenta. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing In a message dated 11/30/2005 4:15:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've never owned a steam iron and neither has my Mum. Now that I have a tumble dryer, I only give the clothes a short tumble (which shakes the worst creases out of knitted cotton garments) and iron them while still damp. If they have got too dry I spray them with water. I've found that a steam iron is required to do modern (or even 19th century) tailoring. I'm currently still using my Norelco; however, when it dies, I will be in the same pickle, as Norelco doesn't make steam irons anymore. I've found Black and Decker not very satisfactory. Haven't tried a Rowenta, but I had a Rowenta toaster once, and the thermostat never seemed to be consistent, so haven't high hopes for an iron. May consider a Sunbeam when the time comes. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: velvet pressing...
At 12:27 AM -0700 11/30/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: as well. I'm lucky - mine is 4 x 12, with a heavy cotton canvas base which lets it curve over a ham if needed. I got it at least 20 years ago, and it cost $50 then. I panic if I forget where I left it last, and I need it. Yah know they make straight toothed carding cloth. I know I've used my flat backed carder in a pinch, but don't do enough velvet to actually go and buy a bit o carder cloth... Ta Carol -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
In a message dated 11/30/2005 7:52:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. Yes, and the spit usually indicates that the iron is not getting hot enough--hence, the unreliability of the thermostat. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns
What I've done in the past is to cut a bit of elastic, and sew ribbon to *both* ends. This way the ribbon doesn't need to be very long (shorter dangly bits) and you get a bit of 'give' for sizing. When I thread the elastic/ribbon through the casing, I also tack (backstitch) 'across' the elastic in the casing at least in the middle (I hope that's clear), so it doesn't keep slipping out. I hope this helps! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- How about threading a pretty ribbon through the casing so your (very lucky to have a grandma sewing for them!!) granddaughters can just tie off and have an attractive bow showing? Although, maybe not a good solution for babies...someone in an earlier post suggested leaving an extra length of elastic for Mama to finish off? Good luck, Theresa Eacker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've been sewing for my granddaughters for Christmas and have come across, again, something that has long bothered me in most commercial patterns. The sleeves have elastic in them and the directions say, Cut elastic to a comfortable measurement. Now, the girls are in Florida, and I am in Maryland, so how am I supposed to do that? The same holds when making baby clothes for babies who aren't born yet, for example. (Snipping) Does this peeve anyone else as it does me? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: opera
Dear Mia, Yes i agree on your words. The reason why i went to this opera was because the orkestra was Concerto Copenhagen, wich makes historical music. They go as far as standing up all the time while all the music is played, because this is what they did back then, and the opera was a 3 hours long performance. I go each time they play, because they are my favourite orkestra, last i went it was with Haendels Julius Ceasar, with Andreas Scholl as contra tenor. They also play copies of old instruments. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:16 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: opera And not only do you have to consider the costumes and the direction of the production, with opera and any other Period Music, You have to consider whether it is one with period instruments and sensibilities, or if it is done with a modern orchestra. (and vocal talents...were there castrati or at least male altos singing some of the parts?) There are some groups that head in this direction, and the sound is very different. Modern music is often times very different from the intent of the composer. And thanks for some of the DVD suggestions 18th c Mia in Charlotte, formerly Baroque Mia from the University of MD Chorus, who was lucky enough to sing with some male altos and instruments from the Smithsonian instution and Barouge performance artists from many places at the Handel festival - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. When behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing. Presently, I am enjoying the Sunbeam...especially since I discovered how to use the self -cleaning mode. I can even get the 'burst of steam' which was also a best feature with the Rowenta. I love how my Rowenta presses (and the steam is great) but the spitting is SOOO annoying! I went to press out my tablecloth yesterday and there was water everywhere!! This is my second one and I can't recommend them. I might just go get me a Sunbeam even though my iron isn't dead yet because I am tired of the problems. And it seems like an iron would be such a simple device!! Who knew? Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas
-Original Message-From Abel, Cynthia Snipped: The excellent biography Pocahontas and the Powhatan Dilemma only says that Pocahontas' wedding ensemble was imported from England and her father sent her a necklace of pearls. The 12th Night gown isn't described either. I'm guessing the pearls were freshwater, but have no idea as to the length or color of the necklace (white, natural, pink, grey, and mixed?) Does anyone on the list know what pearls (white beads were worn, I know) a Powhatan noble woman would wear. I grew up in Gloucester County, VA and Elementary school was a mile from the location of Powhatan village, so I am pretty sure that the would have been Saltwater Pearls. But considering the scale of a doll to adult, the freshwater ones should work well. On color, I would go with what works best for the outfit. Also I'm thinking of adding a white Jacobean surcoat, but made of white feathers. I know from the biog that Powhatan's wives were recorded as wearing blue feather capes, made so densely, that one Englishman recorded them as appearing more of satin than feathers, but have no idea as of type of feather or shade of blue. Many thanks for any help. Cindy Abel On the research I have done on time period, I do not feel that the Europeans would have appreciated ANY native elements in dress (except the Pearls:-)). Most Europeans believed that they were civilizing the natives, and could not appreciate the culture. Dinah Tackett ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
I have had three R's and even experimented using distilled water exclusively! and even that was not the ultimate solution. Don't try working on a wedding dress !! Table linen is bad enough. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 10:41 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] ironing My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. When behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing. Presently, I am enjoying the Sunbeam...especially since I discovered how to use the self -cleaning mode. I can even get the 'burst of steam' which was also a best feature with the Rowenta. I love how my Rowenta presses (and the steam is great) but the spitting is SOOO annoying! I went to press out my tablecloth yesterday and there was water everywhere!! This is my second one and I can't recommend them. I might just go get me a Sunbeam even though my iron isn't dead yet because I am tired of the problems. And it seems like an iron would be such a simple device!! Who knew? Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Question about display...
Now, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? Marc == My only experience with this is a small local museum but they regularly vacuum their costume pieces, which are stored flat in acid-free tissue and boxes. For display, they are mounted on padded maneguins or forms, occasionally laid across a bed or something like that. A lot of the choice on how to display depended on the condition of the garment. They try to rotate their displays several times a year but that depends on staff/volunteer availability. Good luck :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Question about display...
Most clothes (exception: shawls, kimono) were never intended to be flat, but are shaped to the human body. One thing to beware of in display or storage is creasing. Use well-washed muslin or acid-free tissue inside sleeves and folds to prevent sharp creases forming. Another consideration is acid--avoid unsealed wood or cardboard, or any plastics that give off fumes. Clothes on display will definitely collect dust, and vacuuming is the way to remove it. BUT--it can also remove loose buttons and trim! Get a piece of fiberglass window screening, tape the cut edges to avoid snags, and always vacuum through the screen. Thisis not a job for your shop vac--low suction is preferred. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 11:32 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question about display... Now, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? Marc == My only experience with this is a small local museum but they regularly vacuum their costume pieces, which are stored flat in acid-free tissue and boxes. For display, they are mounted on padded maneguins or forms, occasionally laid across a bed or something like that. A lot of the choice on how to display depended on the condition of the garment. They try to rotate their displays several times a year but that depends on staff/volunteer availability. Good luck :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] ironing
I am so glad I don't have any of these ironing problems--years ago I bought a Euro-Pro system. It has a separate tank (no water in the iron) and a suction table for ironing. I found mine on sale, and have since had to replace the tank/iron unit with another, but the suction table still works great. It also doubles as a steamer, which is very handy for antique clothing. Other companies make similar systems. Look for a commercial ironing system. Kim ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
Our iron here doesn't have any of the problems usually associated with irons... My mother wanted one that made a lot of steam, so she checked the ratings in Consumer Reports and other magazines of the kind, and chose the Philips azur exel 10. It's been a few years so it's probably not sold anymore. It wasn't the cheapest model, but we've never, ever had problems with it. In any case, it makes *lots* of steam, even on low settings (I can steam wool), and it doesn't spit. I've never felt the need to use the spit button. Now, our travel iron... now THAT one spits. Yikes! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas
Usually, either blue jay, blue bird or hummingbird. De -Original Message-From Abel, Cynthia I know from the biog that Powhatan's wives were recorded as wearing blue feather capes, made so densely, that one Englishman recorded them as appearing more of satin than feathers, but have no idea as of type of feather or shade of blue. Many thanks for any help. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Working with velvet
SgI will review my Threads articles on sewing with velvet. I don't recall any recommendations to do so, but I suppose you could shear the velvet seam allowances like you do when working with fur. Ah yes, that's a good fur trick. Hadnt considered that. An interesting idea, but not sure how I'd do it. The idea of russet cotton tufts in my beau's electric razor...hmmm. Such things lead to certain peril. Ruth AnnBut I haven't got a trick to deal with thickness, other than gritting my teeth, muttering under my breath, and pushing the fabric that's under the presser foot down as hard as I can with my forefingers! --That, or sew it by hand. Yes, I suspect it will come to that! Sunny Personally, I made a velvet ironing board cover, and it's worked great for every velvet I've needed to iron. How very classy! This is a great idea. i've always used bath towels but this is ever so much more elegant. (Like I worry how elegant my ironing board is!) Thanks all! BTW, Another off-list friend said that you can re-raise the pile on natural fiber velvets by misting with a white vinegar/distilled water solution (approx 2T in 1c water) and brushing up the nap with a new toothbrush. Some vile experiments are in order. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas
Oh yeah, and you can't use feathers from any of these bird as it will land you a fine and a term in jail. They are protected under the category of songbird. Pigeons, starlings and mourningdoves you can hunt, kill, eat, and use their feathers. De -Original Message- Usually, either blue jay, blue bird or hummingbird. De -Original Message-From Abel, Cynthia I know from the biog that Powhatan's wives were recorded as wearing blue feather capes, made so densely, that one Englishman recorded them as appearing more of satin than feathers, but have no idea as of type of feather or shade of blue. Many thanks for any help. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Question about display...
Ok, so I am on the right page with all this. Great. Thank you. Has anyone tried those cans of compressed air rather than a vacuum? Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: working with velvet
Kimiko There isn't much I've been able to do with multiple layers, other than to grade carefully and try to place as few seams in overlapping places as I can. May I ask why both a set in sleeve and the epaulettes? Good question. The shortest answer is that I think it looks sharp. I love the wide shoulder look of the late Eliz/early Stuart stuff. I'm not very big or very tall. It's a fun look for me to take up more than my customary amount of space. There's extant pieces paintings showing this style. However, as perhaps you imply, leaving out the epaulette and 1/3 of my inseam bulk certainly is an option. Call it a late-in-the-construction-phase design modification. I'll angst over it a bit more. Everything else in the construction trim is done. Setting in the epaulettes sleeves is the next step. Dither. Dither. I'l work on something else and let it stew. SandyP... thanks for the needleboard notes. Greenberg Hammer has them from $50-300+ depending on the size. Yow! Tough to justify if I dont do much velvet. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
re: [h-cost] Question about display...
Marc CNow, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? IMHO Clothes are meant to be seen in body shapes, not laid flat. If your garments are not fragile, unique or particular heavy I would seriously consider mounting them stress-free on a manequin. With smaller, fragile or incomplete outfits you could gently stuff the sleeves, shape collars, etc with acid-free or buffered papers so people can see the body-shaping. If your garment is so fragile unique, like the Dolly Madison gown at the Smithsonian, or the Eleanor of Toleado burial gown then let it lie flat as those museums do. Choose acid-free or buffered papers for the garment(s) to rest upon. Buffered papers, unlike run-of-the-mill papers are alkali permeated to count the acidic effects of dyes, chems, and can slow deteriation. I collect vintage photographs and handcolored fashion plates. My speciality papers photo sleeves come from Light Impressions an archival supply shop. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet/epaulettes
At 21:06 30/11/2005, you wrote: Kimiko There isn't much I've been able to do with multiple layers, other than to grade carefully and try to place as few seams in overlapping places as I can. May I ask why both a set in sleeve and the epaulettes? Good question. The shortest answer is that I think it looks sharp. I love the wide shoulder look of the late Eliz/early Stuart stuff. I'm not very big or very tall. It's a fun look for me to take up more than my customary amount of space. There's extant pieces paintings showing this style. However, as perhaps you imply, leaving out the epaulette and 1/3 of my inseam bulk certainly is an option. Call it a late-in-the-construction-phase design modification. I'll angst over it a bit more. Everything else in the construction trim is done. Setting in the epaulettes sleeves is the next step. Dither. Dither. I'l work on something else and let it stew. When I use epaulettes I put in the sleeves in the normal way. I make up the epaulettes as complete units, and sew them on to the sleeve head seam from the underneath, so you don't see the stitching. Saves an awful lot of layers! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ironing
I had the same problem with my old Sunbeam. Roger Diana Habra wrote: My problem with the Rowenta is that they 'spit' after a while. When behaving Well, it is still my favorite for long distance ironing. I love how my Rowenta presses (and the steam is great) but the spitting is SOOO annoying! I went to press out my tablecloth yesterday and there was water everywhere!! This is my second one and I can't recommend them. I might just go get me a Sunbeam even though my iron isn't dead yet because I am tired of the problems. And it seems like an iron would be such a simple device!! Who knew? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Question about display...
Ok, you'll love this... A couple of weeks ago I got saddled with the Special Collections department for the University Library (I'm pretty sure I was assigned this for my skills at cutting through academic pretention and getting things back on track more than anything else - and the fact that the faculty as a whole seem to not hate me). The reason I'm mentioning this is that IN this collection there is a small collection of vintage clothing, among other more obscure realia. And I have a wide range of empty display cases. I hate empty display cases. So, I have empty display cases, and I have things to display. Seems like an easy choice here. So, I mentioned this to my assistant (who's been in this department for 20 years or so, and she got a little unhappy (ok, the reality is she totally freaked out and spazzed all over the floor, but I've gotten her calmed down now, and she's just sadly resigned to me having my way with her stuff). Her major stated complaints were a) the stuff's all dirty and needs to be cleaned and steamed before it could be displayed (because it will mess up her nice, clean display cases), and there's nothing to display the clothes *on* since these are generally flat cases. Now, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: OT - Pin Cushion-how many needles have you lost?
Aint that the truth! I had your experience, too. Amazed at all the hidden steel, I stopped thinking that I had all these needles lurking in the rug. This, after I returned from an 8 day stay in the hospital when one of the hidden buggers entered my foot unbeknownst. Kathleen - Original Message - From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 9:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: OT - Pin Cushion-how many needles have you lost? Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote: My grandmother was a weaver, and said one mustn't make a pin cushion out of fabric that includes sparkley silver threads. But the fabric wasn't the problem! These had gotten driven so deep into the cushion that you'd never know they were there! =-O Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency embroidery question
Hi Deredere, I would buy a DMC cotton floss if i were you. Its stranded into 6 threads. You can try to use one strand, two strands and 3 strands, and deside wich you like! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 10:40 PM Subject: [h-cost] Regency embroidery question Hi, I am planning on making a regency gown. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/god1/hob_1983.6.1,07.146.5.htm And I have found the perfect cotton voile. But know I am wondering what kind of embroidery thread I should use. The discription says heavy white cotton thread. It looks not very tightly spun. Has anyone any idea what I could use? I wish I had some close up pictures of this type of embroidery. There is one in the Kyoto book but that embroidery is too heavy to my taste. Like the subtle smaller patterns better. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet/epaulettes
Can someone point us to an online pic to see what it is you are all talking about? Sounds very interesting. Thanks, Sg When I use epaulettes I put in the sleeves in the normal way. I make up the epaulettes as complete units, and sew them on to the sleeve head seam from the underneath, so you don't see the stitching. Saves an awful lot of layers! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet
This is an interesting observation. One of the things we discovered in the process of making the Suitable gown for her majesty (same period), we wondered if one of the reasons 'Liz I preferred the big gowns was because it makes one feel, well, imposing. Sg Cin wrote: I'm not very big or very tall. It's a fun look for me to take up more than my customary amount of space. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas
I'm going to use, if I do it, the usual feathers found in my local craft hobby stores. Actually, the Europeans were really fascinated by the so-assumed by them lesser civilized natives of other lands, so I thought using feathers but making an Elizabethan/Jacobean surcoat was a clever, if inaccurate idea. Camilla Townsend's recent biog of Pocahontas does a great job of prising out the real meanings behind the engraving of Pocahontas. She points out that the costume she is wearing, is much more upper-middle class, reflecting almost Puritan morales(the body modestly covered and the high capitain hat, which Queen Anne wore, but few other noblewomen did so in portraits at that time), despite Pocahontas'/Matoaka/Lady Rebecca's high birth which entitled her to wear the full coat costume of low neck and French farthingale. Some authors have surmised that the all covering wear might have hidden tatoos, but it is just as probable that Pocahontas, John Rolfe, the Virginia Company sponsors or any combination of the three, would have preferred a visual representation of the Christian convert Native American princess as advertisement for prospective sponsors and settlers not to be deliniated in full court costume(not only Puritans railed against the extravagent required court costumes of the 16th and 17th centuries), thought by many as practically immoral, but in modest, if expensive fabrics. Virginia needed hardworking serious-minded investors and settlers, in order to succeed, not those who wanted to find gold, get rich quickly, and return to Mother England. Cindy Abel -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 2:44 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas Oh yeah, and you can't use feathers from any of these bird as it will land you a fine and a term in jail. They are protected under the category of songbird. Pigeons, starlings and mourningdoves you can hunt, kill, eat, and use their feathers. De -Original Message- Usually, either blue jay, blue bird or hummingbird. De -Original Message-From Abel, Cynthia I know from the biog that Powhatan's wives were recorded as wearing blue feather capes, made so densely, that one Englishman recorded them as appearing more of satin than feathers, but have no idea as of type of feather or shade of blue. Many thanks for any help. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet/epaulettes
At 22:33 30/11/2005, you wrote: Can someone point us to an online pic to see what it is you are all talking about? Sounds very interesting. Thanks, Sg When I use epaulettes I put in the sleeves in the normal way. I make up the epaulettes as complete units, and sew them on to the sleeve head seam from the underneath, so you don't see the stitching. Saves an awful lot of layers! Never seen pictures of it - the first time I did it, it just made sense, and I just always do it. Maybe I read it in Arnold - I've been doing it so long I forget now. I frequently put the sleeves to the body by binding both the armhole and the sleeve head, then whip stitching them together. The epaulette covers that! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dressing a doll as Pocahontas
it is also possible that she was dressing to Rolfe's income and station and the fact that an American princess was not considered equal to a European princess. Seeing as how they weren't quite civilized. It should be noted that if a person was a chief or sachem it did not necessarily mean that the children were princes and princess'. This was a way that the Europeans seemed to identified the children of chiefs. Their assumtion of how they thought things ranked. And usually the Europeans did not understand how the system worked within a given tribe or nation. Among the Akwesasne, you became a sachem by election. There was one nation that had royalty/nobility, I think it was the Narragansett but I'm not really sure. De -Original Message- I'm going to use, if I do it, the usual feathers found in my local craft hobby stores. Actually, the Europeans were really fascinated by the so-assumed by them lesser civilized natives of other lands, so I thought using feathers but making an Elizabethan/Jacobean surcoat was a clever, if inaccurate idea. Camilla Townsend's recent biog of Pocahontas does a great job of prising out the real meanings behind the engraving of Pocahontas. She points out that the costume she is wearing, is much more upper-middle class, reflecting almost Puritan morales(the body modestly covered and the high capitain hat, which Queen Anne wore, but few other noblewomen did so in portraits at that time), despite Pocahontas'/Matoaka/Lady Rebecca's high birth which entitled her to wear the full coat costume of low neck and French farthingale. Some authors have surmised that the all covering wear might have hidden tatoos, but it is just as probable that Pocahontas, John Rolfe, the Virginia Company sponsors or any combination of the three, would have preferred a visual representation of the Christian convert Native American princess as advertisement for prospective sponsors and settlers not to be deliniated in full court costume(not only Puritans railed against the extravagent required court costumes of the 16th and 17th centuries), thought by many as practically immoral, but in modest, if expensive fabrics. Virginia needed hardworking serious-minded investors and settlers, in order to succeed, not those who wanted to find gold, get rich quickly, and return to Mother England. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns
KL tips!! Those just made it into my sewing room tricks archive. Thanks so much for sharing, Theresa Eacker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What I've done in the past is to cut a bit of elastic, and sew ribbon to *both* ends. This way the ribbon doesn't need to be very long (shorter dangly bits) and you get a bit of 'give' for sizing. When I thread the elastic/ribbon through the casing, I also tack (backstitch) 'across' the elastic in the casing at least in the middle (I hope that's clear), so it doesn't keep slipping out. I hope this helps! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- How about threading a pretty ribbon through the casing... (Snipped) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] epaulettes (was: working with velvet)
When I use epaulettes I put in the sleeves in the normal way. I make up the epaulettes as complete units, and sew them on to the sleeve head seam from the underneath, so you don't see the stitching. Saves an awful lot of layers! Suzi! This is probably the best solution. Why didnt I think of it? I'd even get perfect placement of the epaulettes with full control. You're a genius. Thanks! Can someone point us to an online pic to see what it is you are all talking about? Sounds very interesting. Thanks, Sg I was asking about Stuart doublets. Here's a few pics in books: Look in Norah Waugh, Cut of Women's Clothes, plate 3b c 1610. See the little wing at the top of shoulder? Janet Arnold PoF: The Verney gown c 1600. Blanche Payne: Fig 348 Purple Gold costume of Adolphus the Great 1620 is a man's version of the same style. You'll also find dozens in late Elizabethan portraits on men women. Here's a Spanish one: Blanche Payne: fig 336 Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia 1590 --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: speaking of Pocahontas
My newspaper today gave a little blurb about all the upcoming films, and said that the new Pocahontas movie was about the doomed love between John Smith and Pocahontas. Sigh. And of course the BIG film coming up is Memoirs of a Geisha, which screwed up the portrayal of the way geisha behaved so much that the leading geisha of the century had to insist on many occasions that the character is NOT based on her. Plus, she's played by a Chinese actress. I guess the film people decided that as far as Western audiences are concerned, a Chinese woman is no different from a Japanese woman! At least the costumes look good in that one. Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] soulletz herigaudz definition
On Wed, 30 Nov 2005, Stephanie Smith wrote: Commandez ke vos chiualers e trestoutz vos gentils hommes qe vos robes pernent ke meymes ces robes chescun ionr e nomement a voster manger e en voster presence usut pur vostre honour garder ne pas veuz tabartz e soulletz herigaudz en contrefetes curtepies. Command that your knights and see that your gentle men wear your dress, that these same dresses be worn by all during your meal and in your presence and to maintain your honour they must not be old tabbards or *soiled surcotes* a fake magpie(1) [would wear] (1) uncertain curtepies might be the French plural of courtepy, a type of surcote (Chaucer used the word in English, and there's a lot of overlap in English and French at this time). I don't know what a counterfeit courtepy would be. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: working with velvet
This is an interesting observation. One of the things we discovered in the process of making the Suitable gown for her majesty (same period), we wondered if one of the reasons 'Liz I preferred the big gowns was because it makes one feel, well, imposing. Sg, Other people react to that sort of outfit, too, not just the wearer. Oh, I expect it's partly size, but it's also to do with obvious complexity, near perfect tailoring, walking with dignity and killer materials. Take away any element and the effect disappears. Back in Aug, I wore a c 1590 drum farthingale in tawney sarceonet with as many jewels, shinies, accessories as much big hair as I could muster. At this particular Renn ball, 3 people dropped me curtesies while they were in the middle of a figured dance. Two of them claimed it was quite literally a knee-jerk reaction. One guy said he'd made a leg, before his head even processed whether he should or not. I got to use my current favorite Maggie Thatcher line: Oh, I'm not the Queen, I'm only in politics. (I'm Campaign Treasurer for a county judicial candidate.) --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet/epaulettes
At 23:59 30/11/2005, you wrote: Quoting Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 22:33 30/11/2005, you wrote: Can someone point us to an online pic to see what it is you are all talking about? Sounds very interesting. Thanks, Sg When I use epaulettes I put in the sleeves in the normal way. I make up the epaulettes as complete units, and sew them on to the sleeve head seam from the underneath, so you don't see the stitching. Saves an awful lot of layers! Never seen pictures of it - the first time I did it, it just made sense, and I just always do it. Maybe I read it in Arnold - I've been doing it so long I forget now. I frequently put the sleeves to the body by binding both the armhole and the sleeve head, then whip stitching them together. The epaulette covers that! Any chance that we could understand what it is that you do by looking at some close-up photos of a finished gown? Very possibly, but I don't have finished gowns, as I am a costume maker and sell what I make! I don't bother to take closeup photos, as I don't need them. If I am teaching, it's show and tell, so no teaching examples, and I don't draw! I am not being very helpful here, am I? It is an instruction from Hunnisett, the 1500-1800 book, but there are no pictures of it or the sleeve application. If you make up the epaulette, however you like, bagging out, turning the edges together and stitching, so you have a thing that is completely finished. You have the sleeve sewn into the sleeve head. Then you put the curved edge of the epaulette just to the shoulder side of the sleeve seam, and either stab stitch it from the right side, or fold it back over the shoulder and stitch it from the underside. When you fold it back into place, you then do not see the stitching. (or you cover it with braid, like they did!) Is that any clearer? Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: OT - Pin Cushion-how many needles have you lost?
My grandmother was a weaver, and said one mustn't make a pin cushion out
of fabric that includes sparkley silver threads.
But the fabric wasn't the problem! These had gotten driven so deep into
the cushion that you'd never know they were there! =-O
Her problem was that pinheads hid in the Mylar silver threads in the weave,
and needles similarly hid before they got lost inside.
CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com
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Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns
In a message dated 11/30/2005 6:31:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: KL tips!! Yes, thanks all for the suggestions. Unfortunately, none of them work for this particular project. I've found that, with size 3 garments, I can't set the sleeve in the round. Therefore, I sew the sleeve to the bodice flat, then insert the elastic, then sew the side seams. So leaving the elastic unfinished, or using ribbon, doesn't work this time. But I might plan a way to use the ribbon next time. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] soulletz herigaudz definition
Greetings-- Stephanie Smith wrote: I'm reading a friends circa 14th c manuscript by Robert Grosseteste Actually, Grosseteste (aka Bobby Fathead--and not Bobby Big Balls, as my husband kept joking) died in 1253. Grosseteste is quite a significant scholarly figure of the 13th century, writing numerous theological and scientific works, as well as things like books of manners in Norman French :-) As Bishop of Lincoln, he headed a pretty big household, including numerous sons of nobility sent to learn them some manners. Susan friend of Bobby Fathead (hey, he's my SCA persona's bishop, although he's due to die in a couple of years :-) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns
Can't you turn the seam allowance under for the elastic casing, and then leave that bit of the seam open when you sew the side seam? It could be hand-finished once the elastic was properly sized and stitched, no? I'm trying to think three-dimensionally here, and I THINK I have done this once or twicewhen I was in some kind of pinch or anotherBecause I use my costumes over and over, I use elastic whenever I can, particularly on breeches and waistbands, and I like to just tie the elastic so that it can be re-sized for the next character the next yearand what I THINK I'm describing is one way to keep access to the ends of the elastic. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Nov 30, 2005 8:02 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns In a message dated 11/30/2005 6:31:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: KL tips!! Yes, thanks all for the suggestions. Unfortunately, none of them work for this particular project. I've found that, with size 3 garments, I can't set the sleeve in the round. Therefore, I sew the sleeve to the bodice flat, then insert the elastic, then sew the side seams. So leaving the elastic unfinished, or using ribbon, doesn't work this time. But I might plan a way to use the ribbon next time. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Question about display...
Just be careful that you don't cause stress to the fabric. Vintage fabrics can rip easily if they have not been cared for properly. If you put too much stress on it, it could tear. For example, be careful that you don't hang something from, say pins in the shoulders of a garment, without supporting it. There are people here who would know more than I do... Cans of air vs vaccuum... Be careful that the vaccuum is not to strong. It can damage fibers as well. Regards-- Dame Catriona MacDuff -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Catherine Kinsey Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 12:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question about display... Now, my questions are, am I correct in my understanding that vintage clothes should be displayed flat, and not to clean them (We've got the whole - no UV thing covered already)? And is there anything I'm not thinking about? Marc == My only experience with this is a small local museum but they regularly vacuum their costume pieces, which are stored flat in acid-free tissue and boxes. For display, they are mounted on padded maneguins or forms, occasionally laid across a bed or something like that. A lot of the choice on how to display depended on the condition of the garment. They try to rotate their displays several times a year but that depends on staff/volunteer availability. Good luck :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: working with velvet
'Liz I preferred the big gowns was because it makes one feel, well, imposing. Other people react to that sort of outfit, too, not just the wearer. Oh, I expect it's partly size, but it's also to do with obvious complexity, near perfect tailoring, walking with dignity and killer materials. Anybody on this list plays SCA in the East Kingdom? You know the... hmm... she's probably duchess now... Isabella? Those who've met her will know what I mean. Very tall, and imposing in normal clothing. Even when she's not playing SCA, she's probably the center of attention pretty often. First time I saw her, she was in full Elizabethan. All white, with a standing ruff and tons of pearls. Wow was she imposing. I took to moving away every time she came near, she was that intimidating. And... well... the clothing helps :-) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] !5th Century coat
I need help with a coat from a book. The book is The Medieval Soldier and the picture is on page 92; a pikeman is standing at the top of the page with a rust colored coat on. This is the first time I'm recreating a costume from a picture in a book. What I need to know is would the seam of the arm placed towards the back like many of the other clothes at that time? I'm going to have to make my own pattern for this coat - it's actually for my fiance' for Christmas. I have his measurements and a pattern made up for a similar piece that is form fitting. But wanted to be sure of the arm seam. Plus, I'm having problems determing how wide I need to make the whole sleeve - the sleeve in the picture is pretty loose. The pattern I have already; the sleeve is snug fitting with buttons from the wrist to the elbow. I hope that all made sense - insomnia is trying to get the best of me. :-) Roscelin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
