[h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift
Hi! Apologies for leaving this a little late, but I have been trying to get back to normal after the holiday period (cleaning, sorting out, etc), but I received by holiday gift last week. I got a beautiful Elizabethan style necklace, which my daughter has also taken a fancy too! Also, a large bag of sew-on pearls, which I haven't decided what to do with yet. Very many thanks to Wendi for these! Best Wishes Jayne - Yahoo! Photos Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover Photo Books. You design it and well bind it! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?
http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/court.htm above is a link showing several gown using that fabric. You will have to search through all of the pictures. She might be using of of the same in this one as well http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/maryt31.jpg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
Thank you Gail. It is truly a labor of love for all of us at the Gallery. We learn so much as we work. I am working on an 1861 article about color usage deals with fashions in paintings. Some eye-opening stuff for the time period. I have a page and a half to type yet. I am surprised how good the eBay dealers are with working with me. Once they see the purpose of the Library, they are very willing to come down on prices and pull their auctions. These dealers in the U.S., England, and France watching out for specific topics for me. Most of these dealers purchase from estate sales. We do have some people who loan their collections to be put in the Library. A member from h-costume has been very gracious to loan some of her collection. In exchange, she receives a free lifetime Library subscription. Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] robe a la francaise
Hi, I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with lots of embroidery, now it is time. In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures. Page is here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
Alex, The link I gave, http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html , shows the process of how we clean the images. We have a link on the front page of Library. What time frame are you in? We are adding some costume history books to the Library this year. I already have some of the history book Corsets and Crinoline online. This is not to be confused with the modern day book of the same name. This book was written in the 1860s. The Encyclopedia also touches on other time period. Our biggest problem getting into 18th Century and older is the price of the publication are VERY high. One day maybe we will make enough money to be able to purchase the older items. But for now, I have to depend on the history books, and the 19th early 20th Century publications. Hopefully this year, we will go into earlier years of the publications to put into the Library. U.S. copyright will not allow us to use publications earlier than 1923. We are going to be stuck with that date for a long time. But France's copyright are for 70 years. I have been collecting French fashion magazines from 1924-1936 to put online. I am wanting to learn French so I can translate them. My husband says that there is a program for learning French. I need to know how to speak, read, and their grammar. I will give that program a try. If I don't get what I want from that, I will take a class at the community college. BTW, I do have a beautiful 1950s Russian pattern catalog. Their copyrights expire very quickly. So that will go online this year. Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur
Re the long fur and washability, any of the types that I have used (in the affordable price range) will matt if they come in contact with heat from either the water or dryer tempts. In my business of more than 20 years, I have had more animal costumes ruined by well meaning customers who washed the costume to save me the trouble! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur I'm doing a production of CATS and need some advice. - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?) I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little tubes. My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need to be washed at some point. Any better ideas? -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards? -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)? -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them. Ideas for painting to retain the velour feel? Any help would be appreciated! Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member
I have a resale number and have never been asked for it. The bigger problem is that the minimum order rate is high. (presently, about $75) It is not hard to meet this since I have a business and keep a likely stock for customers in shop..But occasionally I need only one thing and find it annoying to have to fill up the order with possibles. Kathleen From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:19 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member Catching up here. They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be able to use them (recent personal experience). Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is fine. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale number. I have one, but they didn't ask for it. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had the problem you speak of. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote: Catching up here. They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be able to use them (recent personal experience). Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is fine. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale number. I have one, but they didn't ask for it. Melusine My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order, even though they sent me a confirmatory email. Then, nothing. I had to call them to find out what had happened. And they still did not fill my order. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area
Than you!!! I will definitely check it out. I will try my local library and see if they can sen for it. Sometmes they do when it's from another library that isn't in their system. - Original Message - From: Sheryl Nance-Durst [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 12:39 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area The Harrisburg near Elizabethtown? If so, there should be a college library in Lancaster that has it - Franklin Marshall College in the Shadek-Fackenthal Library. According to my map, that's only about 30 miles away. Sheryl N-D At 12:58 PM 1/7/06 -0500, you wrote: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my costumes. Sincerely, Becky Rautine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery
Penny, another curious question re these pictures.. I cannot remember if there has been any mention of just how these pics were colored originally. I have come across volumes of the same date and publisher in which the colors of the costumes for any given costume plate are entirely different. And not just in tone or quality of brush work. So to follow through with this entry, How Come? Kathleen - Original Message - From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 5:28 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery Hi Gail, I do the same thing. If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down. I gave the software many chances... still don't like it. A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word restoration. Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's Dictionary. LOL! Dusting the book off. Only for you Gail will I dust today! 1. A restoring or being restored. 2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state or condition. 3. A representation of the original form or structure. Reconstruction. Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival, recovery. A modern word in the recording industry is digitally remastered. YUCK! My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered. Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned! The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor condition.. Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc. If you could see the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a prayer over them and never touch them. Now some of our collections are in excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton collection, my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for a wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years. But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website visitors. I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the condition of the images. Those images need very little work and are more from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics. Go on eBay and see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are. I will pay high end for certain topics. The money spent on one high-end collection, I could have purchased several other collections in not-so-good condition. Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the art world. Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids because the starting price is too high. I then privately write the dealers or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me privately. I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection or book and let them see my online Library. I feel that I am saving a collection that is being split up and sold individually. I can present the collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection. The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually. After explaining to him and that I want to save the collection, he came way down off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection. Not only did he sent me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the occupations. Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage. What a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me. It took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed saving. As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates on eBay. I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it. She had a collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for the plays and some for fashion designers. She wanted in the thousands for it. No way! I'm not rich. She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical or fashion designer collections at a lower price. I love the designers, but couldn't pass up the theater. So the fashion designer collection was broken up and sold individually. Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice. Which child do I love more? When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make a palette of the colors on the images. Sometimes we do not need to repaint the entire image. But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be partially or completely repainted. The worse years for bad paint jobs in the books were the 1830-1860s. I have one sad-looking lady (my images are called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and forth for a year. The original painting is so messed up. Kimiko worked on the majority of 1838 images for
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Hi, I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with lots of embroidery, now it is time. In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures. Page is here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too. - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
Thank-you for the info, Suzi. I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'. Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze! Frustrating. Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, so that's good. Joannah ( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. ) - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to know that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online catalogue and ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If anyone has problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on the information. www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.) _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote: Thank-you for the info, Suzi. I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'. Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze! Frustrating. Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, so that's good. Joannah ( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. ) Thanks. It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria. suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers
At 09:46 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote: At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote: Thank-you for the info, Suzi. I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'. Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze! Frustrating. Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, so that's good. Joannah ( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. ) Thanks. It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria. suzi I didn't have any problems with the enlarged views. I am running Windows XP and have a cable internet connection. I did notice that the fabric widths are not always given (the trims I looked at had the widths). Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business is located. All I know is that I was told on the phone that they only sell wholesale and would not fill my order. It's annoying since they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have found. Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 250-yard in narrower sizes) last a long time. And they must have increased their minimum order amount again. It was $60 when I ordered in June 2005. Joan At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote: Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had the problem you speak of. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote: Catching up here. They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be able to use them (recent personal experience). Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is fine. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale number. I have one, but they didn't ask for it. Melusine My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order, even though they sent me a confirmatory email. Then, nothing. I had to call them to find out what had happened. And they still did not fill my order. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola
My grateful thanks to all who commented on this painting and garments. I think I have a handle on what is going on, at least enough to make a fair run at it. I will stop by the library to day to pick up Fashion Detail. I was also looking at Patterns of Fashion and found some similar couched cording in some of the photographs. I look forward to working on this. :D As for the design on dress, I agree with Joanna and it was likely a cord or braid. I gave the client the option of velvet or braid, depending on her comfort level. Again my thanks! Althea On Jan 7, 2006, at 11:30 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote: --- Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, I've been asked to help with this costume. 1544 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it. I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon appliqued on. I understand the chemise. But I don't really understand the wrap and head covering. Does anyone have an idea of what/ how it's made? thanks! Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Althea, This isn't really an area that I'm very familiar with, so I'm going on what I can see in the portrait. As far as your base fabric goes, wool or silk sounds fine. But as far as the pattern on the fabric goes, I think that you're wrong about velvet ribbon. I agree that the pattern is most likely appliqued, but I don't think it's ribbon - I think that it's cord. Do you have, or can you look at a copy of 'Historical Costume in Detail - the 17th 18th Centuries' by Avril hart and Susan North? ( Yes, I know the painting is dated 1544 - bear with me :-) ) If you enlarge the portrait ( click on it and go to 100%, any larger and strangely it seems to lose definition ) and look at the edge of the Laura's right sleeve at the shoulder, you can see the profile of the cord above the fabric. I think that I can even make out a twist in the cord, too. Anyway, there are a pair of sleeves, made of green silk, featured in the book, which are decorated/patterned with cord which has been couched on. ( Description on p.28, picture on p.29. There is an even larger picture over pp.10 11. ) When ! I first looked at this portrait closely, this form of decoration and these sleeves leapt straight to my mind. As far as the partlet-collar-shawl-thingy goes, my first thought was that it looked like chenille! e.g. http://www.cocochenille.com/2brdichbe.html http://www.home-decorating-co.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? Screen=PRODStore_Code=THDCProduct_Code=arabo_toffee_649720Product_C ount=Category_Code= http://www.minkydelight.com/chwr-110.html http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-upholstery-fabric-chenille- upholstery-fabric-chenille-fabric-br-diamonds-taupe.aspx Most of these designs are probably too big, but you get the idea. On closer inspection, I have no idea, really, but I think you could probably make a good approximation of the design with this technique: http://www.quiltbus.com/chenilling.htm Or use something like Rya stitch. The headgear is odd, but it certainly looks as if it is the same fabric as the partlet-thingy. Perhaps it is a close-fitting cap or coif, rather than a wrap or headband? Sitting over braids wrapped around the head, which give it that bulgy/padded look? If you made the cap of your base fabric and then added the 'rosettes' to it after you had the shape right.. no, I went back and looked at the picture again, whatever the fabric is, it was woven that way - you can see the partial rosettes on the edge of the partlet and on the front of the headgear, just above Laura's right ear. Well, that's how the original is, but you'll probably have to reproduce the fabric by some kind of embroidery, so my first suggestion is still valid, I guess. Whatever you decide, good luck with your project. Post some pictures when it's done, please? My 2 cents worth. Joannah _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the reasons behind things. William of Conches, 12th century ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Hi Becky, Is it an oval pannier you are looking for? Should it be straight at the top, or curved in the sides? If you are going to make such a huge frame, i would suggest you to use another hoop wire. I have used Wissners krinoline wire in the heavy weights, but if your frame is going to be straight in top, it will not hold. I would suggest you to use a thick cane in stead. Jean Hunnisets panniers are good. If you want the french shape, the top hoop hangs two far down. I have altered the frame because i wanted it to be at elbow hight. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:08 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Hi, I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with lots of embroidery, now it is time. In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures. Page is here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] knit stockings
I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i lost the stitches all the time. Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me. I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top. Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
Robin Netherton wrote: At least one of the wholesale dealers I order from (out of state to me) notes that if you live in their home state, you need to provide a resale license, but otherwise they don't seem to care. Businesses are required to collect taxes (or note exemptions) for in-state sales. If you mail-order from another state they aren't required to collect or report sales taxes for the other state. Or that's how it used to work, anyway, back when I had a business. So out-of-state sales require no extra paperwork. In-state retail sales means there's tax forms to fill out. Speaking of trims... I recently found TrimFabric.com as an interesting supplier of discounted trim. The selection varies considerably, though. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with lots of embroidery, now it is time. Thank you for warning us. I grabbed pictures for inspiration. And let us know how the client likes it! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] This year's calendar selection
I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar, neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular image of the medieval. My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige. I've had the same problem for a couple of years now. I really miss the Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space photos, and Edward Gorey.) I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a better time of it than I did. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too. - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
Dear Bjarne, I hope the lucky recipient of the dress sends pictures wearing it! Michelle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
Have you taken into account the stretch of the stocking? 40cm seems like a very large diameter. Glenda. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] knit stockings I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i lost the stitches all the time. Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me. I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top. Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar, neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular image of the medieval. *giggle* I got that one too. I've had the same problem for a couple of years now. I really miss the Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space photos, and Edward Gorey.) Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? Wonder if some other Calendar publisher might pick up on the idea? I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a better time of it than I did. Not calendar-wise, but I am waiting on my copy of Moda a Firenze to show up! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knit stockings
--- Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i lost the stitches all the time. Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me. I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top. Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings? Bjarne Ok, that translates to 12.5 sts/inch--I believe that is in the range for good stockings in the eighteenth century. You may also wish to try, if you are not allergic, a fine worsted-prep yarn for your stockings. Use a similar size thread of wool that you have been of cotton. Wool is much, much, much nicer to knit than cotton or silk. And 40 cm is only about 16 inches (to respond to another poster), so that is not ridiculous. If you knit [wool] stockings to the measurement of your leg, they will be all baggy not sleek and smooth. I've heard between 75% and 90% of your leg measurement, but 100% at the ankles for ease to don the stocking. Good luck. Ann in CT __ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Susan B. Farmer wrote: I've had the same problem for a couple of years now. I really miss the Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space photos, and Edward Gorey.) Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? IIRC, we (on this list) tried that a few years ago when the series was discontinued. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims
What company are you all talking about? Sue - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:08 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business is located. All I know is that I was told on the phone that they only sell wholesale and would not fill my order. It's annoying since they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have found. Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 250-yard in narrower sizes) last a long time. And they must have increased their minimum order amount again. It was $60 when I ordered in June 2005. Joan At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote: Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had the problem you speak of. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote: Catching up here. They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't be able to use them (recent personal experience). Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is fine. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale number. I have one, but they didn't ask for it. Melusine My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order, even though they sent me a confirmatory email. Then, nothing. I had to call them to find out what had happened. And they still did not fill my order. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress
At 02:51 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote: Martha Cratchet, in A Christmas Carol, is said to be wearing a twice-turned dress. This term is new to me. Does anyone know what it means? Thanks. Nancy In order to extend the life of a dress, one can take it apart, turn the pieces inside out, and turn the skirt top to bottom and back to front as well, then sew it back together. That way the faded outside is turned inside, and the worn parts are put in places where the fading/wear is not as obvious. It's a sign of extreme poverty to turn a dress a second time. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote: My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Interesting. Where did you get that one? I don't remember seeing it. It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word Tolkien at the top, and The Hobbit Calendar 2006 at the bottom. If you look at Amazon's listing, they have the *wrong* image -- there's an Alan Lee Lord of the Rings *2007* calendar shown as the main image (customer-submitted). Click on the small image, and you'll see the correct one, but with a green background color; probably a pre-publication image made before final printing, or maybe it was done in several colors. Walmart has the same error; maybe the image was sent from the publisher by mistake. The description also does not match the contents of the one I bought, even though the ISBN is the same. What a mess. Ah, here: Correct image, different ISBN: http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0007208138 Lord knows what you'll get if you try to order any of these :-( I actually have all of the images from this calendar in a 1979 large-format, slipcovered edition of his paintings, but it's nice to have them on view on the wall. (OK, I also have most of them in oversize postcard prints, too, of which I framed seven many years ago, but those pictures are in a box somewhere. Am I a geek? I bought these when they were first released, in the late 1970s.) I have always liked Tolkien's art; it's got a rather spare, primitive (in the artistic meaning of the term) feel to it -- not what you'd expect from an English intellectual! In fact, I almost bought the calendar of Hiroshige (Japanese) landscapes because they harmonized nicely with the Tolkien images. (I keep my calendars side-by-side on the wall, to show two different months for reference.) (I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.) OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's mostly landscapes. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: twice-turned
Nancy: If I recall my Louisa May Alcott years correctly, a turned dress was one that had been taken apart and put back together with the fabric that used to be on the inside now on the outside, so that it did not look as worn or stained. So I guess a twice-turned dress was on that had been taken apart and put back together a second time. Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
Robin, you are lucky girl! I love coming across sales like that! Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress
Martha Cratchet, in A Christmas Carol, is said to be wearing a twice-turned dress. This term is new to me. Does anyone know what it means? This is just a guess, but I know that when suits got old and stained, they took them apart and resewed them with the pieces inside out, so that the side that was against the body would end up on the outside. That side would be less damaged than the exposed side. Speculation here, but a twice-turned dress could have been remade twice so the better side was facing out. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
We also had the same problem finding any calendars with a medieval theme. So this year we bought a calendar that dealt with France. Each day has a picture that dealt with a place or object of France; and each month dealt with a different location in France. We decided to choose this calendar because it is my long time wish to go to France. My fiance' has already been there when he was stationed in Europe. Roscelin -- Original message -- From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar, neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular image of the medieval. My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige. I've had the same problem for a couple of years now. I really miss the Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space photos, and Edward Gorey.) I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a better time of it than I did. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
While not as useful as The Medieval Woman calendars, there were a couple of possibilities out there if you didn't wait for the after-New Year sales and patronized the right bookseller. Pages from the Spinola Hours were reproduced on 1 calendar and are beautiful examples of squashed bug style illumination. Pages from the Kennicott Bible, a 1476 Spanish manuscript, were reproduced on another. Several years ago, my local newspaper had a piece on BrownTrout Publishing and how they had achieved success in the calendar business by going for niche topics and I've thought they would be a good place to try for a People in the Middle Ages calendar. (Even if they aren't still publishing it, I'm sure Workman would be inclined to lawsuits if someone else did a Medieval Woman calendar.) They have a web site, http://www.browntrout.com/index.asp , if anyone wants to write them. Janet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise
How might I get that pattern? Is it in a book I might find at the library? It seems I need to find the library that has all these costuming books. I plan a day to go over to Lancaster, PA to visit one of the libraries recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones we can find in the area. I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to MAKE it work. - Original Message - From: kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:42 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across. Kelly - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too. - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote: I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful. Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has to be large for that character. - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress
In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:28:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'm making a Mother Hinger costume for my daughter's ballet this next Christmas. Any suggestions? It's a robe a la francaise type like Marie Antoinette puffy one. ** We did Nutcracker every year at school [NCSA]. I remember our Mother Ginger was played by the tallest man in the dance department. The huge pannier was at 1st made of plywood and weighed like 800 pounds. Later it was fashioned out of PVC pipethe plastic piping plumbers used. What a relief for the dancer! He also wore plasterer stiltsor something like them, that made him over a foot taller. We made long frilly pantaloons to cover theseand you did catch a glimpse of them when the children [8 or them] promenade out from under her skirts and, after their minuet, run back under. The contraption looked like an open robe with a contrasting petticoat but in reality the skirts were all attached to the pannier and the bodice was separate. The dancer would pull a cord at the point of the bodice and the [faked] petticoat part would draw up like an Austrian curtain to let the children out and back in. The gown was all cinnamon and coffee-with-cream colored taffeta with lots of swags and huge satin flowers and bows in pastel colors at the top of the panniersdecorated with white lace. She looked like a big fancy iced cake. She had a towering 1770s do with a huge delicate mob cap with lace and bows and things perched on top. A great costume. The dancer would swing those big hips back and forth while the children danced their minuet. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham Carter as Anne Boleyn. I noticed that all her dresses go straight down from bust to waist, not pinching in at the waist at all, and making her look somewhat pregnant when she's not. While I realize this era's silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? *** It doesn't do that in Lady Jane, does it? Must be the cut of the dressunless she is pregnant [with Elizabeth?] :-P ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't wear drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I usually do English. And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England. It gets COLD there. Thanks for your forbearance, Tea Rose In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST) From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Italian Underwear I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator, knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair of stockings and a pair of chopines. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
On Sunday 08 January 2006 10:21 pm, Robin Netherton wrote: On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote: My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Interesting. Where did you get that one? I don't remember seeing it. It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word Tolkien at the top, and The Hobbit Calendar 2006 at the bottom. I don't remember seeing it here, and the picture on Amazon (that you give the URL for below) would not have sold me; I was thinking of line drawing instead of color art for some reason when I thought of Tolkien's own art. [snip] (I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.) Of course not. Our home has a bit of an international flavor too. OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's mostly landscapes. Right, I know that. Even so, I was having trouble finding landscapish calendars I'd want to buy. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection
On Monday 09 January 2006 12:07 am, Lavolta Press wrote: ear! You can say *that* again. I was really frustrated when I did my calendar shopping. Sally Queen Associates's 2006 calendar features costume of the American Wild West period, a period in which I have almost no interest. I'm interested in a wide variety of eras. I used to get the Medieval Women calendars. I have gotten all of the Sally Queen costume calendars except this year's, and the year when they did children's costume. I have almost all of the Sally Queen calendars myself. I too am interested in a wide variety of eras; it's just that the Wild West is one of the few that I'm *disinterested* in. For 2006, I got a calendar of fashion plates from the _Gazette du Bon Ton_, called the Golden Age of Fashion. It is sold on this web page: http://www.rsvp.com/index.cfm?function=homeSubCatID=9catid=19 I haven't seen it, but Workman Publishing did a 2006 calendar called Shoes Gallery. Bata Shoe Museum has done a nice calendar or two--I got one a few years ago, but haven't seen one for 2006. I need a wall-sized calendar with spaces for the days big enough to write in; I saw the Shoes Gallery calendar; I believe it's small sized-too small to be useful as a calendar to me. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
On Monday 09 January 2006 12:31 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham Carter as Anne Boleyn. I noticed that all her dresses go straight down from bust to waist, not pinching in at the waist at all, and making her look somewhat pregnant when she's not. While I realize this era's silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? Is it possible that the *actress* was pregnant at the time of filming and the costume was deliberately cut to obscure that fact? I have no idea, I don't follow what goes on with actors, it was just a thought. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII
At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote: In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't think I've ever seen it pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter. I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the actress's own shape (on the busty side)? Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, hence the rather odd costume shape. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] English underwear (was: Italian Underwear)
Generally established as true. Yes, England is cold. And, no, not everybody wore 70 pounds of clothing (I exaggerate!). But - Go to http://costume.dm.net/overview.html and read. There could be 8 layers of cloth (or more), and while many of them could be silk or linen, in cold weather you can bet there was wool also. That site (http://costume.dm.net) is an excellent one to peruse, particularly for doing English 16th century. Roger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't wear drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I usually do English. And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England. It gets COLD there. Thanks for your forbearance, Tea Rose In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST) From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Italian Underwear I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document their 16th century Sicilian Bride underpinning collection and a pair of chopines. This delay has proven fortuitous in that the curator, knowing how much we are trying to cover in a short period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with the collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure with 2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair of stockings and a pair of chopines. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear
Greetings! Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. G Drawers arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered novelties and foreign. They weren't adopted as regular wear until later. I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective. Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going to make much difference except for possibly during activities like horseback riding. However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles (rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers would be rather immaterial. Cheers, Danielle At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote: Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't wear drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I usually do English. And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England. It gets COLD there. Thanks for your forbearance, Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume