[h-cost] Re: Holiday Gift

2006-01-08 Thread Jayne Thomas
Hi!
  Apologies for leaving this a little late, but I have been trying to get back 
to normal after the holiday period (cleaning, sorting out, etc), but I received 
by holiday gift last week.  I got a beautiful Elizabethan style necklace, which 
my daughter has also taken a fancy too!  Also, a large bag of sew-on pearls, 
which I haven't decided what to do with yet. Very many thanks to Wendi for 
these!
  Best Wishes 
  Jayne
   


-
Yahoo! Photos – Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover
 Photo Books. You design it and we’ll bind it!
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Re: [h-cost] Use of Fabrics?

2006-01-08 Thread Lori Alston

http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/court.htm

above is a link showing several gown using that fabric.
You will have to search through all of  the pictures.

She might be using of of the same in this one as well
http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/maryt31.jpg
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Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery

2006-01-08 Thread Penny Ladnier
Thank you Gail. It is truly a labor of love for all of us at the Gallery. 
We learn so much as we work.  I am working on an 1861 article about color 
usage deals with fashions in paintings.  Some eye-opening stuff for the time 
period.  I have a page and a half to type yet.


I am surprised how good the eBay dealers are with working with me.  Once 
they see the purpose of the Library, they are very willing to come down on 
prices and pull their auctions.  These dealers in the U.S., England, and 
France watching out for specific topics for me.  Most of these dealers 
purchase from estate sales.


We do have some people who loan their collections to be put in the Library. 
A member from h-costume has been very gracious to loan some of her 
collection.  In exchange, she receives a free lifetime Library subscription.


Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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[h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with
lots of embroidery, now it is time.
In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
Page is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery

2006-01-08 Thread Penny Ladnier

Alex,

The link I gave, http://www.costumegallery.com/1838/plates/cleaning.html , 
shows the process of how we clean the images.  We have a link on the front 
page of Library.


What time frame are you in?  We are adding some costume history books to the 
Library this year.  I already have some of the history book Corsets and 
Crinoline online.  This is not to be confused with the modern day book of 
the same name.  This book was written in the 1860s.  The Encyclopedia also 
touches on other time period.


Our biggest problem getting into 18th Century and older is the price of the 
publication are VERY high.  One day maybe we will make enough money to be 
able to purchase the older items.  But for now, I have to depend on the 
history books, and the 19th  early 20th Century publications.


Hopefully this year, we will go into earlier years of the publications  to 
put into the Library.  U.S. copyright will not allow us to use publications 
earlier than 1923.  We are going to be stuck with that date for a long time. 
But France's copyright are for 70 years.  I have been collecting French 
fashion magazines from 1924-1936 to put online.  I am wanting to learn 
French so I can translate them. My husband says that there is a program for 
learning French.  I need to know how to speak, read, and  their grammar. I 
will give that program a try.  If I don't get what I want from that, I will 
take a class at the community college. BTW,  I do have a beautiful 1950s 
Russian pattern catalog.  Their copyrights expire very quickly.  So that 
will go online this year.


Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Re: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur

2006-01-08 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Re the long fur and washability, any of the types that I have used (in the
affordable price range) will matt if they come in contact with heat from
either the water or dryer tempts. In my business of more than 20 years, I
have had more animal costumes ruined by well meaning customers who washed
the costume to save me the trouble!

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 1:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT painting leotards/velour-cat fur


 I'm doing a production of CATS and need some advice.

 - Best paint for painting leotards? (nylon/spandex? cotton/spandex?)
 I've dyed them solid colors, but only had moderate success with fabric
 paint in a tube. I need larger splashes of color than those little
 tubes.  My inclination is to use Roscoe supersaturated paints (watered
 down) 'cause I know they won't wash out...and these will probably need
 to be washed at some point.  Any better ideas?

 -Ideas for attaching bits of fur to leotards?

 -Best source for cat fur (need long for stage purposes)?

 -I have to build some of the unitards (can't buy for some of the bigger
 actor/dancers) and plan to use stretch velour for some of them.  Ideas
 for painting to retain the velour feel?

 Any help would be appreciated!

 Kate




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Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member

2006-01-08 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
I have a resale number and have never been asked for it. The bigger problem
is that the minimum order rate is high. (presently, about $75)  It is not
hard to meet this since I have a business and keep a likely stock for
customers in shop..But occasionally I need only one thing and find it
annoying to have to fill up the order with possibles.

Kathleen

From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims--was, Hello-new member


  Catching up here.
 
  They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you won't
be
  able to use them (recent personal experience).  Fortunately, I have a
  friend with a resale number and I just pay him the wholesale plus state
  sales tax and everything is fine.
 
 
  Joan Jurancich
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a resale
 number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.

 Melusine

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Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

2006-01-08 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
the problem you speak of.

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


 At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
 Catching up here.
 
 They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
 won't be able to use them (recent personal
 experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
 I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
fine.
 
 
 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
 resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
 
 Melusine

 My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
 even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
 to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
 fill my order.


 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area

2006-01-08 Thread Becky
Than you!!! I will definitely check it out. I will try my local library and 
see if they can sen for it. Sometmes they do when it's from another library 
that isn't in their system.


- Original Message - 
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need to find a look in the area



The Harrisburg near Elizabethtown?
If so, there should be a college library in Lancaster that
has it - Franklin  Marshall College in the  Shadek-Fackenthal Library.
According to my map, that's only about 30 miles away.

Sheryl N-D


At 12:58 PM 1/7/06 -0500, you wrote:


Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd - Janet Arnold

I live near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Does anyone in that area have this 
book so I can borrow it. I can't afford to buy one. Please contact me if 
you'd be willing to loan this treasure for me to look at and use for my 
costumes.

Sincerely,
Becky Rautine
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Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery

2006-01-08 Thread Lloyd Mitchell
Penny, another curious question re these pictures.. I cannot remember if
there has been any mention of just how these pics were colored originally.
I have come across volumes of the same date and publisher in which the
colors of the costumes for any given costume plate are entirely different.
And not just in tone or quality of brush work.
So to follow through with this entry, How Come?
Kathleen
- Original Message - 
From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume gallery


 Hi Gail,

 I do the same thing.  If a site goes to Acrobat, I shut it down.  I gave
the
 software many chances... still don't like it.

 A very good question... I don't mind answering about my usage of the word
 restoration.

 Three definitions of restoration from my old gigantic Webster's
Dictionary.
 LOL!  Dusting the book off.  Only for you Gail will I dust today!

 1. A restoring or being restored.
 2. A putting or bringing back into a former, normal, or unimpaired state
or
 condition.
 3. A representation of the original form or structure.  Reconstruction.
 Syn. replacement, re-established, renovation, reinstatement, revival,
 recovery.  A modern word in the recording industry is digitally
remastered.
 YUCK!  My son gave me a CD for Christmas that wasn't digitally remastered.
 Sounded like 1960s AM radio. Only gift I have ever returned!

 The problems with the originals images is that they are in such poor
 condition..  Water stains, age stains, chipped pages, torn pages, color
 faded 75% of the time, people writing on the pages, etc.  If you could see
 the condition of some of these images in their raw form, you would say a
 prayer over them and never touch them.  Now some of our collections are in
 excellent conditions: 19th Century French Peasants book, Bon Ton
collection,
 my recent purchases of the French play costume renderings collection, and
 the 1814 British occupations books. The 1814 book was made exclusively for
a
 wealthy person in England, and had been in a family collection for years.
 But I purchased all these at top dollar for my budget. Those purchases are
 rare for me but I believe their contents will greatly help our website
 visitors.  I actually purchased them more for the subject matter than the
 condition of the images.  Those images need very little work and are more
 from an organizational project that cleaning the graphics.  Go on eBay and
 see how much the Bon Ton images starting bids are.

 I will pay high end for certain topics.  The money spent on one high-end
 collection, I could have purchased several other collections in
not-so-good
 condition.  Now high end for me, is definitely not what high-end for the
art
 world.  Sometimes, I will see these items on eBay and they have no bids
 because the starting price is too high.  I then privately write the
dealers
 or private owner and ask if they can pull the auction and sell to me
 privately.  I explain to the dealer my purpose for needing the collection
or
 book and let them see my online Library.  I feel that I am saving a
 collection that is being split up and sold individually.  I can present
the
 collection as a whole. This was the case of the 1814 British collection.
 The dealer took book apart and was selling them individually.  After
 explaining to him and  that I want to save the collection, he came way
down
 off his eBay price and sold me the entire collection.  Not only did he
sent
 me the plates, but he included the book's description pages of the
 occupations.  Those pages would have probably ended up in the garbage.
What
 a wonderful soul he is for wanting to sell it as a collection to me.  It
 took a lot of emails to convince him that the entire collection needed
 saving.  As for the French plays renderings... I saw two of these plates
on
 eBay.  I wrote the dealer and asked if she had more like it.  She had a
 collection of a couple of hundred of renderings that this artist did for
the
 plays and some for fashion designers.  She wanted in the thousands for it.
 No way!  I'm not rich.  She gave me an option to purchase the theatrical
or
 fashion designer collections at a lower price.  I love the designers, but
 couldn't pass up the theater.  So the fashion designer collection was
broken
 up and sold individually.  Made me feel like I had Sophie's Choice.  Which
 child do I love more?

 When our images in sad condition are repainted, our first step is to make
a
 palette of the colors on the images.  Sometimes we do not need to repaint
 the entire image.  But a majority of the pre-1870 images need to be
 partially or completely repainted.  The worse years for bad paint jobs in
 the books were the 1830-1860s.  I have one sad-looking lady (my images are
 called ladies, men, or children) that I have been working on back and
forth
 for a year.  The original painting is so messed up.  Kimiko worked on the
 majority of 1838 images for 

Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Becky
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the first 
of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for a 
pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how to 
make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It has 
to be large for that character.
- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



Hi,
I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise 
with

lots of embroidery, now it is time.
In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
Page is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play 
of the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how 
to make the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about 
this since the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've 
looked everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as 
large as I need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions 
on how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 
yards across? It has to be large for that character.
- Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 
by Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can 
simply widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the 
folded, centre front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge 
the pattern as it is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at 
copy shops and on a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge 
direct onto pattern paper, but there are various methods that will work.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Becky

Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for 
a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
has to be large for that character.
- Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by 
Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it is 
on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a 
computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, 
but there are various methods that will work.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers

2006-01-08 Thread Joannah Hansen
Thank-you for the info, Suzi. 

I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my end, but 
whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and the only way to close 
the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.

Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge view' it's 
fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!

Frustrating.

Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, so that's 
good.

Joannah
( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. ) 

- Original Message -
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to know that 
 MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online catalogue and ordering 
 service. I thought it was a very good site. If anyone has problems with it, 
 please let me know and I will pass on the information.

 www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

 Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)



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Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers

2006-01-08 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote:

Thank-you for the info, Suzi.

I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on my 
end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, and 
the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.


Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge 
view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!


Frustrating.

Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, 
so that's good.


Joannah
( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. )



Thanks.
It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria.

suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers

2006-01-08 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 09:46 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

At 17:13 08/01/2006, you wrote:

Thank-you for the info, Suzi.

I am certainly having problems with it. It could well be a bug on 
my end, but whenever I go to 'enlarge view', the website freezes, 
and the only way to close the site is to 'control,alt,delete'.


Yup, just went back and checked, as long as I don't try to 'enlarge 
view' it's fine, as soon as I click on 'enlarge view' - freeze!


Frustrating.

Otherwise, I found materials on there that I wasn't aware existed, 
so that's good.


Joannah
( who now has to go 'ctrl,alt,delete'. )



Thanks.
It isn't happening to me, but I will pass on your message to Victoria.

suzi


I didn't have any problems with the enlarged views.  I am running 
Windows XP and have a cable internet connection.


I did notice that the fabric widths are not always given (the trims I 
looked at had the widths).


Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

2006-01-08 Thread Joan Jurancich
Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business 
is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they 
only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since 
they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have 
found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 
250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.


And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It 
was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.


Joan

At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
the problem you speak of.

Kathleen

- Original Message -
From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


 At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
 Catching up here.
 
 They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
 won't be able to use them (recent personal
 experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
 I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
fine.
 
 
 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
 resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
 
 Melusine

 My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
 even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
 to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
 fill my order.


 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [h-cost] Laura de Pola

2006-01-08 Thread Althea Turner
My grateful thanks to all who commented on this painting and  
garments.  I think I have a handle on what is going on, at least  
enough to make a fair run at it.  I will stop by the library to day  
to pick up Fashion Detail.  I was also looking at Patterns of Fashion  
and found some similar couched cording in some of the photographs. I  
look forward to working on this. :D


As for the design on dress,  I agree with Joanna and it was likely a  
cord or braid.  I gave the client the option of velvet or braid,  
depending on her comfort level.


Again my thanks!
Althea


On Jan 7, 2006, at 11:30 AM, Joannah Hansen wrote:


--- Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello,

I've been asked to help with this costume.
1544
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/l/lotto/1531-/070pola.html

I will likely use the de Toledo pattern for a basis. I've made a
couple gowns with it before so I am familiar with it.

I'm thinking it's a brown wool/ or silk with silk velvet ribbon
appliqued on.  I understand the chemise.  But I don't really
understand the wrap and head covering.  Does anyone have an idea of
what/ how it's made? thanks!


Althea Turner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Althea,
This isn't really an area that I'm very familiar with, so I'm going  
on what I can see in the portrait.


As far as your base fabric goes, wool or silk sounds fine. But as  
far as the pattern on the fabric goes, I think that you're wrong  
about velvet ribbon. I agree that the pattern is most likely  
appliqued, but I don't think it's ribbon - I think that it's cord.  
Do you have, or can you look at a copy of 'Historical Costume in  
Detail - the 17th  18th Centuries' by Avril hart and Susan North?  
( Yes, I know the painting is dated 1544 - bear with me :-)  ) If  
you enlarge the portrait ( click on it and go to 100%, any larger  
and strangely it seems to lose definition ) and look at the edge of  
the Laura's right sleeve at the shoulder, you can see the profile  
of the cord above the fabric. I think that I can even make out a  
twist in the cord, too. Anyway, there are a pair of sleeves, made  
of green silk, featured in the book, which are decorated/patterned  
with cord which has been couched on. ( Description on p.28, picture  
on p.29.  There is an even larger picture over pp.10  11. ) When !
 I first looked at this portrait closely, this form of decoration  
and these sleeves leapt straight to my mind.


As far as the partlet-collar-shawl-thingy goes, my first thought  
was that it looked like chenille! e.g.


http://www.cocochenille.com/2brdichbe.html

http://www.home-decorating-co.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc? 
Screen=PRODStore_Code=THDCProduct_Code=arabo_toffee_649720Product_C 
ount=Category_Code=


http://www.minkydelight.com/chwr-110.html

http://www.fabric.com/home-decor-fabric-upholstery-fabric-chenille- 
upholstery-fabric-chenille-fabric-br-diamonds-taupe.aspx


Most of these designs are probably too big, but you get the idea.

On closer inspection, I have no idea, really, but I think you could  
probably make a good approximation of the design with this technique:


http://www.quiltbus.com/chenilling.htm

Or use something like Rya stitch.

The headgear is odd, but it certainly looks as if it is the same  
fabric as the partlet-thingy. Perhaps it is a close-fitting cap or  
coif, rather than a wrap or headband? Sitting over braids wrapped  
around the head, which give it that bulgy/padded look? If you made  
the cap of your base fabric and then added the 'rosettes' to it  
after you had the shape right.. no, I went back and looked at  
the picture again, whatever the fabric is, it was woven that way -  
you can see the partial rosettes on the edge of the partlet and on  
the front of the headgear, just above Laura's right ear. Well,  
that's how the original is, but you'll probably have to reproduce  
the fabric by some kind of embroidery, so my first suggestion is  
still valid, I guess.


Whatever you decide, good luck with your project. Post some  
pictures when it's done, please?


My 2 cents worth.

Joannah


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Althea Turner
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have  
company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into  
anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the  
reasons behind things.

William of Conches, 12th century


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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Becky,
Is it an oval pannier you are looking for?
Should it be straight at the top, or curved in the sides?
If you are going to make such a huge frame, i would suggest you to use 
another hoop wire. I have used Wissners krinoline wire in the heavy weights, 
but if your frame is going to be  straight in top, it will not hold. I would 
suggest you to use a thick cane in stead.
Jean Hunnisets panniers are good. If you want the french shape, the top hoop 
hangs two far down. I have altered the frame because i wanted it to be at 
elbow hight.


Bjarne
- Original Message - 
From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere for 
a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some of the 
pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? It 
has to be large for that character.
- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



Hi,
I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise 
with

lots of embroidery, now it is time.
In about 14 days i shall remove most of the pictures.
Page is here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
The dress is finished and are packed and send away tomorrow.

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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[h-cost] knit stockings

2006-01-08 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i lost
the stitches all the time.
Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me.
I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens
that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

2006-01-08 Thread Dawn

Robin Netherton wrote:



At least one of the wholesale dealers I
order from (out of state to me) notes that if you live in their home
state, you need to provide a resale license, but otherwise they don't seem
to care.


Businesses are required to collect taxes (or note exemptions) for 
in-state sales. If you mail-order from another state they aren't 
required to collect or report sales taxes for the other state. Or that's 
how it used to work, anyway, back when I had a business. So out-of-state 
sales require no extra paperwork. In-state retail sales means there's 
tax forms to fill out.


Speaking of trims... I recently found TrimFabric.com as an interesting 
supplier of discounted trim. The selection varies considerably, though.




Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 I have to edit my webpage and take down some pictures, so in case some of
 you woul like to se the progress in how i made this robe a la francaise with
 lots of embroidery, now it is time.

Thank you for warning us. I grabbed pictures for inspiration. And let
us know how the client likes it!

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[h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Robin Netherton

I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot
calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
image of the medieval.

My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige.

I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
photos, and Edward Gorey.)

I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
better time of it than I did.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread kelly grant
I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All 
I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across.

Kelly
- Original Message - 
From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of the 
Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make the 
hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since the 
first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked everywhere 
for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I need. BUT some 
of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on how 
to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards across? 
It has to be large for that character.
- Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by 
Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it 
is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on a 
computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern paper, 
but there are various methods that will work.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Michelle Plumb

Dear Bjarne,

I hope the lucky recipient of the dress sends pictures wearing it!

Michelle
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Re: [h-cost] knit stockings

2006-01-08 Thread Glenda Robinson
Have you taken into account the stretch of the stocking? 40cm seems like a 
very large diameter.


Glenda.
- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] knit stockings


I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread was two slippery, i 
lost

the stitches all the time.
Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a little easyer for me.
I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches to each cm. This meens
that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot
calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
image of the medieval.


*giggle*  I got that one too.



I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
photos, and Edward Gorey.)


Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? 
Wonder if some other Calendar publisher might pick up on the idea?




I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
better time of it than I did.



Not calendar-wise, but I am waiting on my copy of Moda a Firenze to
show up!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] knit stockings

2006-01-08 Thread Ann Catelli


--- Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I tryed to knit silk stockings. But the silk thread
 was two slippery, i lost
 the stitches all the time.
 Now i have tryed with cotton thread, and its a
 little easyer for me.
 I made a sampler and it shows that i use 5 stitches
 to each cm. This meens
 that i have to start with 200 stitches at the top.
 Would this be two coarse for a gentlemans stockings?
 
 Bjarne

Ok, that translates to 12.5 sts/inch--I believe that
is in the range for good stockings in the eighteenth
century.

You may also wish to try, if you are not allergic, a
fine worsted-prep yarn for your stockings.  Use a
similar size thread of wool that you have been of
cotton.  
Wool is much, much, much nicer to knit than cotton or
silk.

And 40 cm is only about 16 inches (to respond to
another poster), so that is not ridiculous.  
If you knit [wool] stockings to the measurement of
your leg, they will be all baggy  not sleek and
smooth.  

I've heard between 75% and 90% of your leg
measurement, but 100% at the ankles for ease to don
the stocking.

Good luck.

Ann in CT



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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Susan B. Farmer wrote:

  I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
  Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
  photos, and Edward Gorey.)
 
 Wonder if the publisher would respond to a letter writing campaign? 

IIRC, we (on this list) tried that a few years ago when the series was
discontinued.

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims

2006-01-08 Thread Sue

What company are you all talking about?
Sue
- Original Message - 
From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


Maybe it's because I live in California, the state where the business 
is located.  All I know is that I was told on the phone that they 
only sell wholesale and would not fill my order.  It's annoying since 
they are the only source of (inexpensive) cotton twill tape I have 
found.  Fortunately, a 100-yard roll of 1/2-inch twill tape (or 
250-yard in narrower sizes)  last a long time.


And they must have increased their minimum order amount again.  It 
was $60 when I ordered in June 2005.


Joan

At 05:51 AM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Very curious! I have been ordering from them for years and have never had
the problem you speak of.

Kathleen

- Original Message -
From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cheap Trims


 At 11:19 PM 1/7/2006, you wrote:
 Catching up here.
 
 They only sell wholesale, so unless you have a resale number you
 won't be able to use them (recent personal
 experience).  Fortunately, I have a friend with a resale number and
 I just pay him the wholesale plus state sales tax and everything is
fine.
 
 
 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 I've ordered from them fairly recently (Aug) and didn't need a
 resale number.  I have one, but they didn't ask for it.
 
 Melusine

 My experience in June was that they simply never filled my order,
 even though they sent me a confirmatory email.  Then, nothing.  I had
 to call them to find out what had happened.  And they still did not
 fill my order.


 Joan Jurancich
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress

2006-01-08 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 02:51 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Martha Cratchet, in A Christmas Carol, is said to be wearing a
twice-turned dress.  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know 
what  it means?  Thanks.


Nancy


In order to extend the life of a dress, one can take it apart, turn 
the pieces inside out, and turn the skirt top to bottom and back to 
front as well, then sew it back together. That way the faded outside 
is turned inside, and the worn parts are put in places where the 
fading/wear is not as obvious. It's a sign of extreme poverty to turn 
a dress a second time.



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

  My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
  Hildebrandt or movie stuff. 
 
 Interesting.  Where did you get that one?  I don't remember seeing it.

It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background
with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word
Tolkien at the top, and The Hobbit Calendar 2006 at the bottom.

If you look at Amazon's listing, they have the *wrong* image -- there's an
Alan Lee Lord of the Rings *2007* calendar shown as the main image
(customer-submitted). Click on the small image, and you'll see the correct
one, but with a green background color; probably a pre-publication image
made before final printing, or maybe it was done in several colors.

Walmart has the same error; maybe the image was sent from the publisher by
mistake. The description also does not match the contents of the one I
bought, even though the ISBN is the same. What a mess.

Ah, here: Correct image, different ISBN:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0007208138
Lord knows what you'll get if you try to order any of these :-(

I actually have all of the images from this calendar in a 1979
large-format, slipcovered edition of his paintings, but it's nice to have
them on view on the wall. (OK, I also have most of them in oversize
postcard prints, too, of which I framed seven many years ago, but those
pictures are in a box somewhere. Am I a geek? I bought these when they
were first released, in the late 1970s.) I have always liked Tolkien's
art; it's got a rather spare, primitive (in the artistic meaning of the
term) feel to it -- not what you'd expect from an English intellectual! In
fact, I almost bought the calendar of Hiroshige (Japanese) landscapes
because they harmonized nicely with the Tolkien images. (I keep my
calendars side-by-side on the wall, to show two different months for
reference.)

(I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum
posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are
very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and
lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a
period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.)

OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the
Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's
mostly landscapes.

--Robin


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[h-cost] Re: twice-turned

2006-01-08 Thread Gail Scott Finke

Nancy:

If I recall my Louisa May Alcott years correctly, a turned dress was one
that had been taken apart and put back together with the fabric that used to
be on the inside now on the outside, so that it did not look as worn or
stained. So I guess a twice-turned dress was on that had been taken apart
and put back together a second time.

Gail Finke


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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Penny Ladnier

Robin, you are lucky girl!  I love coming across sales like that!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com

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Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress

2006-01-08 Thread Audrey Bergeron-Morin
 Martha Cratchet, in A Christmas Carol, is said to be wearing a
 twice-turned dress.  This term is new to me.  Does anyone know what  it 
 means?

This is just a guess, but I know that when suits got old and stained,
they took them apart and resewed them with the pieces inside out, so
that the side that was against the body would end up on the outside.
That side would be less damaged than the exposed side.

Speculation here, but a twice-turned dress could have been remade
twice so the better side was facing out.

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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread roscelinlimoges
We also had the same problem finding any calendars with a medieval theme.  So 
this year we bought a calendar that dealt with France.  Each day has a picture 
that dealt with a place or object of France; and each month dealt with a 
different location in France.  

We decided to choose this calendar because it is my long time wish to go to 
France.  My fiance' has already been there when he was stationed in Europe.

Roscelin

 -- Original message --
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 I've hit the 50% off sales on 2006 calendars at both Borders and a mall
 calendar store. What a disappointing choice this year! I saw nothing
 medieval aside from one Angels calendar and a Fra Angelico art calendar,
 neither of which is very useful for costume. I settled for a Camelot
 calendar full of Pre-Raphaelite images, including a few I hadn't seen
 before, all of them with sumptuous Victorian-medieval costume. Eye candy
 over my desk, and later I can use these in lectures about the popular
 image of the medieval.
 
 My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
 Hildebrandt or movie stuff. Almost went for Hiroshige.
 
 I've had the same problem for a couple of years now.  I really miss the
 Medieval Woman calendars. (I've been choosing dance photography, space
 photos, and Edward Gorey.)
 
 I hope people who are looking for suitable images from other periods had a
 better time of it than I did.
 
 --Robin
 
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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread JAMES OGILVIE
While not as useful as The Medieval Woman calendars, there were a couple of 
possibilities out there if you didn't wait for the after-New Year sales and 
patronized the right bookseller.  Pages from the Spinola Hours were reproduced 
on 1 calendar and are beautiful examples of squashed bug style illumination.  
Pages from the Kennicott Bible, a 1476 Spanish manuscript, were reproduced on 
another.

Several years ago, my local newspaper had a piece on BrownTrout Publishing and 
how they had achieved success in the calendar business by going for niche 
topics and I've thought they would be a good place to try for a People in the 
Middle Ages calendar. (Even if they aren't still publishing it, I'm sure 
Workman would be inclined to lawsuits if someone else did a Medieval Woman 
calendar.)  They have a web site, http://www.browntrout.com/index.asp , if 
anyone wants to write them.

Janet
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Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise

2006-01-08 Thread Becky
How might I get that pattern? Is it in a book I might find at the library? 
It seems I need to find the library that has all these costuming books. I 
plan a day to go over to Lancaster, PA to visit one of the libraries 
recommended for me. I'll ask my local library if they can borrow the ones we 
can find in the area.
I appreciate the help. I know what I want to make just not sure how to MAKE 
it work.
- Original Message - 
From: kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise


I have used Ms Hunnisett's 18thC hoop pattern, it balances beautifully! All 
I did was scale it up! At the bottom edge mine is 2 yards across.

Kelly
- Original Message - 
From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



Thanks. I'll look for that one at the library too.
- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



At 14:08 08/01/2006, you wrote:
I have to design a Mother Ginger costume for this Christmas play of 
the Nutcracker. I have many ideas from various sites. I see how to make 
the hoops atand out at different angles. I've thought about this since 
the first of December I work on it in my sleep. I've looked 
everywhere for a pattern to use but so far nothing is as large as I 
need. BUT some of the pictures I've found have been very helpful.
Yours has helped me to see how to put it together. Any suggestions on 
how to make the underpinning hoops or farthingale that is 2-3 yards 
across? It has to be large for that character.
- Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 5:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la francaise



If you get a copy of Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 by 
Jean Hunnisett there is a pannier pattern in there that you can simply 
widen by folding the pattern and cutting extra onto the folded, centre 
front and centre back edges. You will have to enlarge the pattern as it 
is on a grid, but I am told that you can do this at copy shops and on 
a computer. I have never done this as I enlarge direct onto pattern 
paper, but there are various methods that will work.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] twice-turned dress

2006-01-08 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 1/8/2006 11:28:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm  making a Mother Hinger costume for my daughter's ballet this next  
Christmas. Any suggestions? It's a robe a la francaise type like Marie  
Antoinette puffy one.



**
 
We did Nutcracker every year at school [NCSA]. I remember our Mother  
Ginger was played by the tallest man in the dance department. The huge pannier  
was 
at 1st made of plywood and weighed like 800 pounds. Later it was fashioned  
out of PVC pipethe plastic piping plumbers used. What a relief for the  
dancer! He also wore plasterer stiltsor something like them, that made him  
over a foot taller. We made long  frilly pantaloons to cover theseand  you 
did catch a glimpse of them when the children [8 or them] promenade out  from 
under her skirts and, after their minuet, run back under.
 
The contraption looked like an open robe with a contrasting petticoat but  in 
reality the skirts were all attached to the pannier and the bodice was  
separate. The dancer would pull a cord at the point of the bodice and the  
[faked] 
petticoat part would draw up like an Austrian curtain to let the  children out 
and back in.
 
The gown was all cinnamon and coffee-with-cream colored taffeta  with lots of 
swags and huge satin flowers and bows in pastel colors at the  top of the 
panniersdecorated with white lace. She looked like a big fancy  iced cake.
 
She had a towering 1770s do with a huge delicate mob cap with lace and bows  
and things perched on top. A great costume. 
 
The dancer would swing those big hips back and forth while the children  
danced their minuet.
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[h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-08 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham 
Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down 
from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making 
her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's 
silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it 
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.  
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who 
can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the 
actress's own shape (on the busty side)?


Sylrog

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Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-08 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I don't  think I've ever seen it 
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.  
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who 
can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the 
actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?




***
 
It doesn't do that in Lady Jane, does it? Must be the cut of the  
dressunless she is pregnant [with Elizabeth?] :-P
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[h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear

2006-01-08 Thread TeaRoseS
Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear 
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I  
usually do English. 
 
And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It 
gets COLD there.
 
Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose
 
In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Date:  Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Italian  Underwear

I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
their 16th century  Sicilian Bride underpinning
collection and a pair of chopines.
This delay  has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
knowing how much we are trying to  cover in a short
period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with  the
collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
with 2 pairs of  drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
of stockings and a pair of chopines. 
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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Sunday 08 January 2006 10:21 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
 On Sun, 8 Jan 2006, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
   My other calendar (I keep two) is Tolkien -- his original art, not the
   Hildebrandt or movie stuff.
 
  Interesting.  Where did you get that one?  I don't remember seeing it.

 It has been in every store I've seen. The cover is yellowish background
 with the big illustration of Smaug on the hoard of treasure, and the word
 Tolkien at the top, and The Hobbit Calendar 2006 at the bottom.

I don't remember seeing it here, and the picture on Amazon (that you give the 
URL for below) would not have sold me; I was thinking of line drawing instead 
of color art for some reason when I thought of Tolkien's own art.

[snip]

 (I also display Japanese Imari china alongside my medieval art museum
 posters in the dining room; the color choices and decorative elements are
 very harmonious. A perfect blend, in fact, with the minium-orange and
 lapis-blue French provincal print I made into curtains. I am a
 period-purist in my historical reproductions, but not in my home decor.)

Of course not.  Our home has a bit of an international flavor too.  


 OBCostume: Ouch, that's hard. There's absolutely no costume content in the
 Tolkien images. He showed very few people, and these are very tiny. It's
 mostly landscapes.

Right, I know that.  Even so, I was having trouble finding landscapish 
calendars I'd want to buy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman
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Re: [h-cost] This year's calendar selection

2006-01-08 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Monday 09 January 2006 12:07 am, Lavolta Press wrote:
 ear!
 
 You can say *that* again.  I was really frustrated when I did my calendar
 shopping.  Sally Queen  Associates's 2006 calendar features costume of
  the American Wild West period, a period in which I have almost no
  interest.

 I'm interested in a wide variety of eras. I used to get the Medieval
 Women calendars. I have gotten all of the Sally Queen costume calendars
 except this year's, and the year when they did children's costume.

I have almost all of the Sally Queen calendars myself.  I too am interested in 
a wide variety of eras; it's just that the Wild West is one of the few that 
I'm *disinterested* in.


 For 2006, I got a calendar of fashion plates from the _Gazette du Bon
 Ton_, called the Golden Age of Fashion.  It is sold on this web page:

 http://www.rsvp.com/index.cfm?function=homeSubCatID=9catid=19

 I haven't seen it, but Workman Publishing did a 2006 calendar called
 Shoes Gallery.  Bata Shoe Museum has done a nice calendar or two--I
 got one a few years ago, but haven't seen one for 2006.

I need a wall-sized calendar with spaces for the days big enough to write in; 
I saw the Shoes Gallery calendar; I believe it's small sized-too small to 
be useful as a calendar to me.


-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman
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Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-08 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Monday 09 January 2006 12:31 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
 I've just been watching the new Henry Viii on PBS with Helena Bonham
 Carter as Anne Boleyn.  I noticed that all her dresses go straight down
 from bust to waist,  not pinching in at the waist at all, and making
 her look somewhat pregnant when she's not.  While I realize this era's
 silhouette is flat at the bustline, I don't think I've ever seen it
 pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on Ms. Bonham Carter.
 I know there are a lot of English Renaissance experts on this list who
 can advise if this is correct or does it have something to do with the
 actress's own shape (on the busty side)?

Is it possible that the *actress* was pregnant at the time of filming and the 
costume was deliberately cut to obscure that fact?  I have no idea, I don't 
follow what goes on with actors, it was just a thought.


-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical 
results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman
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Re: [h-cost] PBS Henry VIII

2006-01-08 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 05:40 09/01/2006, you wrote:


In a message dated 1/9/2006 12:32:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I don't  think I've ever seen it
pooch out in front at the waist the way it does on  Ms. Bonham Carter.
I know there are a lot of English Renaissance  experts on this list who
can advise if this is correct or does it have  something to do with the
actress's own shape (on the busty  side)?



Ms. Bonham Carter was pregnant in reality when she filmed Henry Vlll, 
hence the rather odd costume shape.


Suzi 



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[h-cost] English underwear (was: Italian Underwear)

2006-01-08 Thread rwfranz
Generally established as true. Yes, England is cold. And, no, not 
everybody wore 70 pounds of clothing (I exaggerate!). But -


Go to http://costume.dm.net/overview.html and read. There could be 8 
layers of cloth (or more), and while many of them could be silk or 
linen, in cold weather you can bet there was wool also.


That site (http://costume.dm.net) is an excellent one to peruse, 
particularly for doing English 16th century.


Roger

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear 
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I  
usually do English. 

And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It 
gets COLD there.


Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose

In a message dated 1/6/2006 9:34:23 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Date:  Fri, 6 Jan 2006 07:48:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Italian  Underwear

I am gearing up for my visit to the Met to document
their 16th century  Sicilian Bride underpinning
collection and a pair of chopines.
This delay  has proven fortuitous in that the curator,
knowing how much we are trying to  cover in a short
period of time, gave us an additional 2 hours with  the
collection, totalling 6 hours of delerious pleasure
with 2 pairs of  drawers, 2 chemises, a shirt, a pair
of stockings and a pair of chopines. 
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Italian Underwear

2006-01-08 Thread Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

Greetings!

Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. G  Drawers 
arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
novelties and foreign.  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and 
didn't find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of 
perspective.  Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, 
drawers aren't going to make much difference except for possibly 
during activities like horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th 
century sidesaddles (rather odd looking contraptions - one was round 
and perfectly flat with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) 
even then the drawers would be rather immaterial.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
usually do English.

And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
gets COLD there.

Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose


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