Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle

2007-03-22 Thread Elizabeth Walpole

snip
Look at The Seven Sacraments and a Deposition by Jan van Eyck and the 
Gravende altarpiece by Hans Memlng.  This dress is in there, seams 
visible.

Good luck with the project,
   -Helen/Aidan
I looked at the Web Gallery of Art and found those first two titles by 
Rogier van der Weyden was that a typo in your post or have I missed 
something with the same titles by van Eyck?

Elizabeth

Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

2007-03-22 Thread Beth and Bob Matney
I can attest to the comfort of this dress. I have been wearing this 
style for about 20 years in the SCA.. summer and winter in the South 
and over some fairly wide weight changes with minor adjustments. My 
first was with the cord (still have), but since have used straps.


Beth

At 02:10 AM 3/22/2007, you wrote:

Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 21:08:40 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007, Gail  Scott Finke wrote:

 I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before.
 How does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the
 front of the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or
 cord of some kind attached to the back of the dress.

That pretty much describes it. As far as I can tell, it makes the dress
more adjustable -- and would be easier to make without having to fit
exactly to the person. I suppose it might also be done as an alteration to
fit a later wearer.

As it happens, I did mine with a solid strap as seen in some of the other
images, but I used this image as the source for some other details in the
side lacing and skirt.

--Robin


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Re: [h-cost] Re: dye vessels...

2007-03-22 Thread Ingrid G . Storrø
On Thu, 22 Mar 2007, cahuff wrote:
 For what it's worth, I've done heated dyeing with clay vessels set on
 the side of the fire...And threatened anyone with death if they went
 dry or started to over heat G They worked very well. Our cooks also
 cooked stews in the same manner (and with the same big stick!)
 We were doing some experimental stuff, no real direct evidence, but
 it worked very well.
 I also have done a small woad vat in a clay container--moving it is
 the real challenge...not a problem in ancient cultures!

Thanks for your answer! How large were these clay vessels, and how much
textile were you able to dye in them?

Ingrid

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Re: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?

2007-03-22 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Ingrid, I can't help you a bit, but am wondering if there aren't some other 
lists for where you might get some help.  I will forward to my Croft list 
(they do a lot of spinning and weaving and dyeing.) Maybe someone there will 
know, or know of a group which will know.

Sg


- Original Message - 
From: Ingrid G. Storrø [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Isabel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dyeing pots 350-575 AD?


Hi, all! I have a question that's tangentially relevant to natural
dyeing of textiles in the period from 350-575 AD. I know there are many
consummate dyers on the list, so maybe somebody here will know!

A friend of mine is writing her Master's thesis on ceramic vessels in
Norway in the period mentioned, and she has a theory that some of them
may have been used to dye small amounts of thread or other textile
matter. Specifically for this she's looking at bucket-shaped pottery,
probably earthenware burned at temperatures between 650-800 degrees
Celsius. An illustration can be found here, it's the one at the bottom
right:
http://www.ub.uib.no/asp/elpub.asp?PublName=Vestlandskeaar=1?sp=1ep=177pn=119
These vessel are fairly heat resistant as they are tempered with
asbestos or soap-stone material. This means they will dispach heat
evenly to the content over a long period after being heated.

So here's the rub: these vessels, like most ceramics found from the
period, are usually fairly small. Apparently cooking pots normally held
between 4-8 litres. These bucket-shaped ones in her material range from
0.8 litres to 17 litres, with an average of 1.5 litres. To me this
sounds like most of them are too small to dye much in - but then I've
never really done much yarn dyeing.

So, to the point of my long and winding question: does anybody have any
thoughts about or, even better, references to any of the following:

- Would these vessels be too small to dye in, or is it likely that they
  could have been used because larger vessels just weren't that normal?

- Any books or serious websites that go into techniques and materials
  used for dyeing specifically for this period?

- There are examples from the period of textiles that would have been
  yarn dyed, for example the tablet-woven bands from Evebø, Høgom and
  Snartemo finds. At Snartemo the bands are woven from horsehair (tail
  hair) which was dyed yellow, white (probably undyed?), red and blue.
  What dyestuffs would have been used? I would guess weld, madder or
  kermes, and woad. Does that sound likely? The reason why I ask is that
  these are all dyestuffs that would require some sort of heating in a
  Scandinavian climate, which might rule out wooden vessels for dyeing.
  I suppose you could set a woad fermentation vat without any additional
  heat, but it might be difficult to get it to work properly. So I guess
  the question would actually be: does anybody know of dyestuffs that
  would give these colours _without_ the addition of heat?

Um, I think that's all I can think of right now. It's potentially a
huge, complex question, I know, but if anybody could point me to any
sources or share their own experiences I'd be grateful. :)

Ingrid

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Re: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?

2007-03-22 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Hi Aylwen, since I draft most of my own patterns, I am always looking to 
other's yardage recommendations.  I use the Internet for this all the time. 
Reconstructing History has a great spectrum of patterns to look at.

Here is a Man's Musketeer Cloak

http://tinyurl.com/24cgke

It recommends 5 yards.   Used to be you could see the back of the pattern on 
some of these siteshaving a little difficulty at the moment finding one.

http://giftshop.scottishtartans.org/patterns.htm

This one for instance has a mantle for which she recommends 2.5 yards at 45 
That is pretty skimpy.

I can't recommend the patterns themselves, as I've not used them, but the 
yardage requirements seem to work fairly well.  I am sure if you wrote Kass, 
she would tell you though.


Here is one for a Moroccan Bernoose. http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html 
(Follow the link to the yardage requirement)  It has a shorter version too.

Sg


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] yardage for short cloak?


 Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and
 need to work out the yardage required to make a full short
 cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The
 cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy.

 Many thanks, Aylwen
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RE: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

2007-03-22 Thread Sharon Collier
I wonder if it (shoulder string) was something they did for children's
clothing, to allow for growth. She appears to be a young woman, could still
be growing?

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Gail  Scott Finke
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion


on 3/21/07 3:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For 3  3/4 yd of 45 wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk noil,
 consider this:
 
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html
 
 I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards (OK,
 they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A bonus:
 cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for non-wealthy
 Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you right
 in that painting.

I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before. How
does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the front of
the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or cord of some
kind attached to the back of the dress.

Gail Finke

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RE: [h-cost] Re: robin's suggestion

2007-03-22 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 10:01 22/03/2007, you wrote:

I wonder if it (shoulder string) was something they did for children's
clothing, to allow for growth. She appears to be a young woman, could still
be growing?




This is similar to tying the straps of a corset to the front of the 
bodice. Any reason why this should not perform a similar job? She 
seems to have a fairly stiff bodice on.



Suzi



on 3/21/07 3:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For 3  3/4 yd of 45 wide fabric, particularly in dark gold silk noil,
 consider this:

 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gentiles/orazio/luteplay.html

 I once did this out of two wool scraps that totaled about 2 1/2 yards (OK,
 they were 60 inches wide, but you've got much more than that). A bonus:
 cheap spun silks, similar to noil, would have been used for non-wealthy
 Italians in this period. And there's your color documented for you right
 in that painting.

I have never noticed the arm/shoulder treatment in that dress before. How
does it work, exactly? And why is it like that? It looks as if the front of
the bodice has a shoulder strap that connects to a string or cord of some
kind attached to the back of the dress.

Gail Finke

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Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle

2007-03-22 Thread Helen Pinto

That's beyond a typo.  It's the Greverade Altarpiece by Memling.
The same dress also appears in a Crucifixion by Memling.  Both
are at the Web Gallery of Art.
 -Helen/Aidan


- Original Message - 
From: Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] minimum yardage for 14/15th century kirtle



snip
Look at The Seven Sacraments and a Deposition by Jan van Eyck and the 
Gravende altarpiece by Hans Memlng.  This dress is in there, seams 
visible.

Good luck with the project,
   -Helen/Aidan
I looked at the Web Gallery of Art and found those first two titles by 
Rogier van der Weyden was that a typo in your post or have I missed 
something with the same titles by van Eyck?

Elizabeth

Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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[h-cost] New Website Chronicling America through historic newspapers

2007-03-22 Thread Lynn Downward

Sorry for the cross-post.

I got this from one of the government info websites today. This
website could make it easier to research American history in different
parts of the country, for example how New York CIty helped with
disaster relief after the San Francisco earthquake of 1906.

NEH WEBSITE OFFERS NEWSPAPER ARCHIVE TO HISTORIANS
The National Endowment for the Humanities and Library of Congress have
launched a website, 'Chronicling America: Historic American
Newspapers', that contains more than 226,000 pages of newspapers from
California, Florida, Kentucky, New York, Utah, Virginia, and the
District of Columbia published between 1900 and 1910.

The link to the complete NEH announcement is:
http://www.neh.gov/news/archive/20070321.html

This announcement goes on to say, Ultimately, over a period of
approximately 20 years, NDNP will create a national, digital resource
of historically significant newspapers from all the states and U.S.
territories published between 1836 and 1922. Also on the Web site, an
accompanying national newspaper directory of bibliographic and
holdings information directs users to newspaper titles in all types of
formats.

I think this is pretty exciting, not just for costume research - think
of all the photos of regular people! - but of what exactly was going
on all over the country during these exciting times and the opinions
from elsewhere. I can't wait to hear what the people in Kentucky
thought of the Gold Rush, or the Californians of Colorado Gold Rush.

LynnD
The History Geek
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Re: [h-cost] rich man

2007-03-22 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Thursday 22 March 2007 4:35 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
 If i were a rich man:
 http://tinyurl.com/3888jm

Oh, my yes.  I can find plenty to envy on this page too.   *Real* silk 
velvet...and brocades to die for.


-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

If only God would give me some clear sign! Like making a large deposit
in my name at a Swiss Bank. -- Woody Allen


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Re: [h-cost] rich man

2007-03-22 Thread Sue Clemenger
sigh, drool, drool, indeed! I think I'm in love!
--Sue, craving the blue/yellow lampas weaveonly $240/yd.

- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] rich man


 If i were a rich man:
 http://tinyurl.com/3888jm
 
 Sigh droll droll
 
 Bjarne
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk
 
 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
 
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