Re: [h-cost] Book question 1895
I wish I knew that just a few day's earlier... I just got back from Prague. But missed the museum What a tourist place, even Amsterdam isn't as touristic as Prague. It almost felt like a theme park. But it is very beautiful. And way too much to see for just two days. German is not a problem for me. I'll be interested in any 1895 patterns. I would be very happy if you would want to look and copy some things for me. Deredere Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: In the museum of decorative arts in Prague there is a library that holds some old fashion books, and there are also a few from the end of the 19th century, one or two, I don't remember exactly, are very good drafting manuals. It's some time ago that I've searched these books through, so I don't really remember the dates these books were from and the language (though I think it was always German). But if you were interested, I could go and have a look. They photocopy any books you like. I don't think that the copyright is a big deal here, because the books have no living author any more (what a surprise) and all photocopies are to be used for study and non-commercial use. Zuzana __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
A dancer in my group is making a v-neck regency gown and is using the La Mode Bagetelle pattern. Has anyone here seen this version made up? She has told me there is a huge overlap. Without being able to see it, I can't see if this is designed to come out like the half robe in Janet Arnold or not. Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
In a message dated 4/14/2008 5:54:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A dancer in my group is making a v-neck regency gown and is using the La Mode Bagetelle pattern. Has anyone here seen this version made up? She has told me there is a huge overlap I don't have the pattern in front of me. The only V necks I can confirm on dresses of this period are made with what we now call a surplice wrap front, a variation of the apron front or low stomacher front gown. That is, the bodice pieces lap over and form a V, and then the skirt is tied on over. I don't believe LMB is cut as a true stomacher front, is it? Ann Wass **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp0030002850) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 136
Toby Whitty of The Silver Wyvern for buckles. Hand makes them all, and is excellent. Trained as a jeweller, and made my (medieval design) engagement ring. In a message dated 14/04/2008 06:43:44 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book question 1895/Prague
Ok, I'll go and have a look as soon as I get there:-) What a pity you missed that! I'm quite sure you'd find some interesting books there. Well, too late now. Just a message to all others: if you ever get to Prague, don't forget to visit this library! I'll be glad to help you all with finding it:-) Zuzana Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wish I knew that just a few day's earlier... I just got back from Prague. But missed the museum What a tourist place, even Amsterdam isn't as touristic as Prague. It almost felt like a theme park. But it is very beautiful. And way too much to see for just two days. German is not a problem for me. I'll be interested in any 1895 patterns. I would be very happy if you would want to look and copy some things for me. Deredere Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: In the museum of decorative arts in Prague there is a library that holds some old fashion books, and there are also a few from the end of the 19th century, one or two, I don't remember exactly, are very good drafting manuals. It's some time ago that I've searched these books through, so I don't really remember the dates these books were from and the language (though I think it was always German). But if you were interested, I could go and have a look. They photocopy any books you like. I don't think that the copyright is a big deal here, because the books have no living author any more (what a surprise) and all photocopies are to be used for study and non-commercial use. Zuzana __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Wow, what an informative batch of responses! Thanks to all of you -- I'll pass these along to my friend. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
Fettered Cock, which others have recommended. Billy and Charlie's, which others have recommended. I would add Gaukler's Medieval Wares to that list: http://www.medievalwares.com/ for bronze belt hardware. He is extremely knowledgeable, and often his pieces are direct casts of originals in his collection. I would add some other notes on 14th c. belts--frequently the belt hardware *was* pewter. Much of the belt hardware in Dress Accessories, for instance, is various pewter alloys. Also, Historic Enterprises: http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php although again, no leather, just the hardware. Tandy Leather for undyed belt blanks: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/index.asp Yours, Jen/pixel/Margaret On Sun, 13 Apr 2008, Robin Netherton wrote: Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?
What time period of medieval? What are you wearing it with? Generally, length depends on whether or not you're tripping on it and what your socio-economic class is. The more money (or rank) you have, the longer and fancier your belt. The best thing I've found to soften leather is use, or you can treat it with mink oil and work it a lot. Or let your dogs chew on it, but then you'll have toothmarks. ;-) Jen/pixel/Margaret On Mon, 14 Apr 2008, Cynthia J Ley wrote: I've used both Fettered Cock and Billie and Charlie's. Nice stuff. FC pieces are generally a bit heavier than BC's. Excellent customer service from both, very nice work. Mark de Gaulker's work is stellar (he's a fellow An Tirian). He puts out a lot of jeweler's quality work as well, a little pricey at times but so worth it! Belt questions: I have a very nice long leather belt that I bought from one of our local merchants. I'm going to use saddle soap to soften it up, but it is quite stiff--is there anything else I can do, short of having my dogs chew on it? Also, how long would a medieval lady's belt be? I need to trim it but am unsure of how much to take off. Thanks! Arlys ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?
I've used both Fettered Cock and Billie and Charlie's. Nice stuff. FC pieces are generally a bit heavier than BC's. Excellent customer service from both, very nice work. Mark de Gaulker's work is stellar (he's a fellow An Tirian). He puts out a lot of jeweler's quality work as well, a little pricey at times but so worth it! Belt questions: I have a very nice long leather belt that I bought from one of our local merchants. I'm going to use saddle soap to soften it up, but it is quite stiff--is there anything else I can do, short of having my dogs chew on it? Also, how long would a medieval lady's belt be? I need to trim it but am unsure of how much to take off. Thanks! Arlys On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:41:07 -0500 (CDT) Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Fettered Cock, which others have recommended. Billy and Charlie's, which others have recommended. I would add Gaukler's Medieval Wares to that list: http://www.medievalwares.com/ for bronze belt hardware. He is extremely knowledgeable, and often his pieces are direct casts of originals in his collection. I would add some other notes on 14th c. belts--frequently the belt hardware *was* pewter. Much of the belt hardware in Dress Accessories, for instance, is various pewter alloys. Also, Historic Enterprises: http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php although again, no leather, just the hardware. Tandy Leather for undyed belt blanks: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/index.asp Yours, Jen/pixel/Margaret On Sun, 13 Apr 2008, Robin Netherton wrote: Relaying a request from a friend: Can anyone recommend, ideally from personal experience, a good supplier of medieval (say, 14th-15th c.) belts and/or buckles? My friend is familiar with Revival Clothing, which sells Talbot's leather goods, but would like to know his range of options before purchasing. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?
On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:16:26 -0500 (CDT) Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What time period of medieval? What are you wearing it with? Generally, length depends on whether or not you're tripping on it and what your socio-economic class is. The more money (or rank) you have, the longer and fancier your belt. Early 1300's, England, upper middle class. Tripping bad. ;-) The best thing I've found to soften leather is use, or you can treat it with mink oil and work it a lot. Or let your dogs chew on it, but then you'll have toothmarks. ;-) My husband suggested that I gum it (dentures, y'see), but retracted it when he saw the dirty look I gave him. ;) Arlys ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?
I've found that neatsfoot oil works well, but some people worry about its effect on the longevity of the leather (or perhaps it's the longevity of the stitching). I'm going to use saddle soap to soften it up, but it is quite stiff--is there anything else I can do, short of having my dogs chew on it? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles?
I normally just lurk but, this topic is right up my ally. I am a professional Dressage and Jumper rider/trainer and we deal a lot with having to condition leather. The reason some people do not want to use neatsfoot oil is because it WILL darken your leather and it will also come off on your clothing and permanently stain. You are right that it also affects the integrity of the stitching. A good saddle maker will recommend any clear or light oil for conditioning leather. The clearer the oil, the more pure it is. BTW--Baby oil works very well. You can also go to any Tack shop and look through their leather cleaning and conditioning supplies or go on line to Dover Saddlery or State Line Tack. Both of those have relatively good prices and will ship supplies to you from their on line shop. Diane Subject: Re: [h-cost] Belt query: was Source for medieval belts/buckles? I've found that neatsfoot oil works well, but some people worry about its effect on the longevity of the leather (or perhaps it's the longevity of the stitching). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?
In addition to all the others mentioned, (Some of which I have frequented with pleasure.) I would also like to mention http://www.handelsgillet.se/baltesdetaljer.htm. They are in Sweden. I have not ordered belt bits from them before but have ordered a number of other items. They are very nice to work with. Just send them an email to order or ask questions. They read and write English with no problems. They take Paypal. (Oh and did I mention the reproduction weaves? http://www.handelsgillet.se/tyger.htm and for more detail on the patterned weaves http://www.handelsgillet.se/pl_sida/pers_sida.htm) Regards, Anne Marie Decker ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
I believe there is a slight overlap on this pattern, but not to the extent that there is in Janet Arnold. There are some pictures of the dress made up at GBACG in their Pattern Review. http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/la-mode-bagatelle.html (direct link the La Mode Bagatelle page on GBACG) Hope that helps Serena Dyer http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes?
This may have been discussed before, but I don't remember. What formulas do you use for blood and If the director wants it smeared on a costume (on stage), how do you get it off -- especially wool and or velvet? Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS
This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and discuss the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show is cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in the original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech week. It keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can let folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of budget/time/lack of help, etc. As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my ideas so radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do the job as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be listed in the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been altered, they aren't a good reflection of your abilities. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of AVCHASE Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM To: h-costume posts Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS Hi, All. The most recent show on which I worked opened last last Thursday. And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to me. The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst. It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was different? So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 48 changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time. The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but were more conventional. Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and practitioners. Audy in the high boonies of Central Texas PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS
I had a difficult situation with a play I designed last summer. The director didn't have much of a clue what he wanted before the rehearsal process started but he did have one conceptual concept he wanted visualized by the costumes and I agreed it would be a good one, so I designed the show around that. The play only had 2 actors, one male, one female (The Last Five Years) and when rehearsals started, they, especially the woman, started suggesting costume ideas. At that point, the director more or less submitted to their-mainly her--ideas and my ideas kind of flew out the window. It was a shopped show and one weekend the woman even went to a store and bought some things she liked, to bring back and show me. I was getting rather frustrated and disappointed by then but tried to go with the flow and I actually did appreciate their input, since they knew more about their characters than I did through rehearsing their parts.I guess I've been in the business enough by now to know do this, although it would have been impossible if the costumes had been built. So I sympathize with you and your situation. Fortunately it hasn't happened very often that the actors want to design their own costumes. On one of the other plays I also designed last summer one actress asked for a different color fabric after I had already purchased it, but we had a big enough budget that I could do so. Several years ago I was draping a show that had cast an experienced Broadway actress who was of a certain age and the designer had to design 3 different possible outfits for her to approve before his designs were finalized, so I know this happens a lot in our industry. Sometimes the actors are right and have good ideas. Sometimes they are not and you have to do what it takes to please them, as I've found that directors usually bow to the actors, not the designer. Sylvia On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and discuss the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show is cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in the original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech week. It keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can let folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of budget/time/lack of help, etc. As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my ideas so radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do the job as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be listed in the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been altered, they aren't a good reflection of your abilities. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of AVCHASE Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM To: h-costume posts Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS Hi, All. The most recent show on which I worked opened last last Thursday. And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to me. The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst. It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was different? So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 48 changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time. The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but were more conventional. Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and practitioners. Audy in the high boonies of Central Texas PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
I had a difficult situation with a play I designed last summer.? The director didn't have much of a clue what he wanted before the rehearsal process started but he did have one conceptual concept he wanted visualized by the costumes and I agreed it would be a good one, so I designed the show around that.? The play only had 2 actors, one male, one female (The Last Five Years) and when rehearsals started, they, especially the woman, started suggesting costume ideas.? At that point, the director more or less submitted to their-mainly her--ideas and my ideas kind of flew out the window.? It was a shopped show and one weekend the woman even went to a store and bought some things she liked, to bring back and show me.? I was getting rather frustrated and disappointed by then but tried to go with the flow and I actually did appreciate their input, since they knew more about their characters than I did through rehearsing their parts.??? I guess I've been in the business enough by now to know do this, although it would have been impossible if the costumes had been built. This is why I continue to maintain that contemporary show are the most difficult to design.? Many cast members think they have a better idea than the designer.? And?many directors, wanting to please the actors in order to get the best possible performance out of them, will let the actors dictate to the designer what they want.? Which is why research and renderings are extremely valuable from the beginning of the process.? So it doesn't turn into He said, she said and one can produce the original ideas which were agreed on.? I hope we're not boring the non-costume designers on this list. Cheryl Odom College of Santa Fe ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
I hope we're not boring the non-costume designers on this list. I, for one, am finding it fascinating, and a reminder of why I didn't persue theatre after high school. Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
I too find this conversation interesting as it's part of theater I know nothing about. My daughter is in high school but has done some semi-legit theater and hopes to pursue it as a career. I don't act except as a recreationist and I make my own costumes under approval of a costume director. However, I've helped others with their community theater and have heard the stories. It seems that a contract really is the way to go. Lynn On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 12:42 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope we're not boring the non-costume designers on this list. I, for one, am finding it fascinating, and a reminder of why I didn't persue theatre after high school. Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
I have used this pattern for several Regency gowns. My advice is to have someone fit you carefully. The overlap is tricky and?I've had to take both bodices apart to refit them. Kathleen Norvell? -Original Message- From: Aylwen Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 5:53 am Subject: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown? A dancer in my group is making a v-neck regency gown and is using the La Mode Bagetelle pattern. Has anyone here seen this version made up? She has told me there is a huge overlap. Without being able to see it, I can't see if this is designed to come out like the half robe in Janet Arnold or not. Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes?
Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kate Pinner Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 11:22 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes? This may have been discussed before, but I don't remember. What formulas do you use for blood and If the director wants it smeared on a costume (on stage), how do you get it off -- especially wool and or velvet? Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes?
Sharon Collier wrote: Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-) Only if you have friends to help you hide the body. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Paula Praxis wrote: This a discussion that benefits all era of costume. Agreed that not all on this list work in theater but many of us do and to hear from others about your experiences is great. I agree the modern period is the most difficult to design for. I much prefer period plays. however there are some times that are more difficult than others. I designed a play set in ancient Egypt. I love archeology and am aware that slaves in the real' ancient Egypt worked naked - this didn't go over too well with my director - so I let her have her way and designed slave costumes for the ensemble. I'm helping with costumes for my 6th grader's class play, which is set in Minoan era Crete. Not surprisingly, the teacher doesn't want historically accurate costumes. We're putting them in chitons. :) Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS
In a message dated 4/14/2008 3:01:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: as I've found that directors usually bow to the actors, not the designer. And isn't it annoying. I want to just quit and let the actor do the whole showsee how she likes that. I'm tired of wardrobe being on the bottom rung of the ladder. [I hear it's not so much so in Europe, especially Britain] When is she gonna complain about the props or change the color of the wallpaper on the set? I don't mind actor's inputbut I want the final decision to be mine if my name is on it. They don't hear me telling them how to read their lines, do they? This is why I ended up cutting and draping more than designing. The actual designer really appreciates what you do for them. **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp0030002850) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book lust G
I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming book) at a Ren Faire this weekend. I was all set to add it to my collection but was shocked at the price. The last time I looked it was going for about $80 U.S. Yesterday it was priced at $148. Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two? Is there another less costly vendor? BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd going for now? Thanks Julie in San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
In a message dated 4/14/2008 3:54:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I agree the modern period is the most difficult to design for. I much prefer period plays. *** Yes! Modern dress is difficult, not only because any actor or actress thinks she can just go buy something, but also because everyone in the audience [and cast] knows all about the clothes and different garments speak huge volumes when they are new and fresh in everyone's minds. The wrong brand of sneakers or jeans can ruin an effect. Of course these two aspects the buying and the newnessare related. **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp0030002850) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 138
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: V-neck regency gown? (Serena Dyer) 2. Fake Blood--getting out of costumes? (Kate Pinner) 3. Re: DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS (Sharon Collier) 4. Re: DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS (Sylvia Rognstad) 5. Director-designer professional standards ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 6. Re: Director-designer professional standards ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 7. Re: Director-designer professional standards (Lynn Downward) 8. Re: V-neck regency gown? ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 9. Re: Fake Blood--getting out of costumes? (Sharon Collier) 10. Re: Director-designer professional standards (Paula Praxis) 11. Re: Fake Blood--getting out of costumes? (Dawn) 12. Re: Director-designer professional standards (Margo Anderson) 13. Re: DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 19:11:37 +0100 From: Serena Dyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown? To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I believe there is a slight overlap on this pattern, but not to the extent that there is in Janet Arnold. There are some pictures of the dress made up at GBACG in their Pattern Review. http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/la-mode-bagatelle.html (direct link the La Mode Bagatelle page on GBACG) Hope that helps Serena Dyer http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 14:22:11 -0400 From: Kate Pinner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Fake Blood--getting out of costumes? To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii This may have been discussed before, but I don't remember. What formulas do you use for blood and If the director wants it smeared on a costume (on stage), how do you get it off -- especially wool and or velvet? Kate -- Message: 3 Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:37:54 -0700 From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and discuss the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show is cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in the original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech week. It keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can let folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of budget/time/lack of help, etc. As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my ideas so radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do the job as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be listed in the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been altered, they aren't a good reflection of your abilities. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of AVCHASE Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM To: h-costume posts Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS Hi, All. The most recent show on which I worked opened last last Thursday. And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to me. The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst. It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was different? So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days
[h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This a discussion that benefits all era of costume. Agreed that not all on this list work in theater but many of us do and to hear from others about your experiences is great. I agree the modern period is the most difficult to design for. I much prefer period plays. however there are some times that are more difficult than others. I designed a play set in ancient Egypt. I love archeology and am aware that slaves in the real' ancient Egypt worked naked - this didn't go over too well with my director - so I let her have her way and designed slave costumes for the ensemble. I'm helping with costumes for my 6th grader's class play, which is set in Minoan era Crete. Not surprisingly, the teacher doesn't want historically accurate costumes. We're putting them in chitons. :) Margo Snicker, giggle. What, you mean they didn't want bare 6th grader boobies for their play? Julie in San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
Ouch! Try Michael Shemansky Bookseller (online) for MdF. He usually includes shipping in his prices, I think. It is about $100 for the book and it was in his mostt recent catalogue. He KNOWS about us costumers. I told him of the book's popularity when he questioned me why so many people were asking about it. I plan to read it --again-- before the Janet Arnold Costume Collequium in Florence in November. QEWU is about $250 the last time I saw it advertised anywhere. Thet is a lot more scarce. Monica in NYC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Julie Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] book lust G I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming book) at a Ren Faire this weekend. I was all set to add it to my collection but was shocked at the price. The last time I looked it was going for about $80 U.S. Yesterday it was priced at $148. Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two? Is there another less costly vendor? BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd going for now? Thanks Julie in San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS
This has been a great thread, so nice to know one is not alone in situations like this. I think one of the problems, especially in community theater, is that to often the costume designer is looked upon as sewing labor, not design talent. I started back doing a little theater a couple of years ago and found every production to be different. Communication is the key and I learned a lot every time, which meant the second time working with a particular director went a lot smoother :). I also learned not to take it to personally if I heard later through the grapevine that there was something specific they may have wanted that didn't get done, or done the way they might have preferred. Budget, and time, was often the critical crunch in these situations. I know I've been really lucky with most of the casts I've worked with too so I had fun. I'd probably do more except my hands just can't hold up anymore to the last minute push there always is to get everything done. Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
This bodice completely overlaps. The pattern is a simulation of the round gowns that actually opened in the front but in this case only the illusion is created with the overlapping bodice, the designers made this design decision suspecting that most modern wearers would prefer the back opening. They made a lot of design decisions like that as they originally were making the pattern for their local Jane Austen society members, not costumers, per se. On Apr 14, 2008, at 11:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A dancer in my group is making a v-neck regency gown and is using the La Mode Bagetelle pattern. Has anyone here seen this version made up? She has told me there is a huge overlap. Without being able to see it, I can't see if this is designed to come out like the half robe in Janet Arnold or not. Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
http://www.poisonpenpress.com/costume.html $99:-)) Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards
Margo Anderson wrote: On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Paula Praxis wrote: This a discussion that benefits all era of costume. Agreed that not all on this list work in theater but many of us do and to hear from others about your experiences is great. I agree the modern period is the most difficult to design for. I much prefer period plays. however there are some times that are more difficult than others. I designed a play set in ancient Egypt. I love archeology and am aware that slaves in the real' ancient Egypt worked naked - this didn't go over too well with my director - so I let her have her way and designed slave costumes for the ensemble. I'm helping with costumes for my 6th grader's class play, which is set in Minoan era Crete. Not surprisingly, the teacher doesn't want historically accurate costumes. We're putting them in chitons. :) Margo I went to a costume party as Ariadne when I was about 15 - my friends and I were all studying classics and reading Mary Renault... I did my best to do the skirt and a high, pointy belt (a bit Wonder Woman, really!) with a lined but gauzy bodice. It kind of gave the idea without giving anything away. When we visited Plimoth Plantation, I spoke to one of the Native American interpreters about how what she was wearing, as modern traditional costume, compared with what her predecessors would have worn in period. Her response was along the lines of I'm way overdressed. Just another example of modern sensibilities getting in the way of accuracy - tut tut! ;-) Jean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
Julie wrote: I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming book) at a Ren Faire this weekend. I was all set to add it to my collection but was shocked at the price. The last time I looked it was going for about $80 U.S. \Yesterday it was priced at $148. Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two? Is there another less costly vendor? IIRC, what's out there now is a 2nd printing. Publishers seem to feel quite free to jack the price up when something is much more popular than they expected (as I think this was, and this definitely happened with QEWU) and they go into another printing when they didn't originally expect to. (To be fair, this may also have to do with having to gear up the press again, which may have gotten more expensive to run in the meantime, perhaps having to re-create some of the production files if they didn't save them, the increasing price of paper and so forth. It's not *just* the temptation of more profits...) 0 Chris Laning | [EMAIL PROTECTED] + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
David Brown Book Company/Oxbow Books carries it too. I can't remember what they're currently charging. www.oxbowbooks.com Arlys On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 17:11:42 -0400 monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ouch! Try Michael Shemansky Bookseller (online) for MdF. He usually includes shipping in his prices, I think. It is about $100 for the book and it was in his mostt recent catalogue. He KNOWS about us costumers. I told him of the book's popularity when he questioned me why so many people were asking about it. I plan to read it --again-- before the Janet Arnold Costume Collequium in Florence in November. QEWU is about $250 the last time I saw it advertised anywhere. Thet is a lot more scarce. Monica in NYC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Julie Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 4:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] book lust G I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming book) at a Ren Faire this weekend. I was all set to add it to my collection but was shocked at the price. The last time I looked it was going for about $80 U.S. Yesterday it was priced at $148. Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two? Is there another less costly vendor? BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd going for now? Thanks Julie in San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves
I am trying to finish off some regency gowns that someone else started for me and never finished. I've just realised they put all the short puffed sleeves in back the front - the outer edge that should have a sleeve band on it is gathered to the armhole! Oh why people can't read patterns when they trace them out and draw the notches, I don't know!!! Do you think I can use them, and just gather them in? The dresses are all done and lined, and need to be worn on Friday, so I've run out of time to unpick them all. I've just hand sewn ribbon under all the busts to make them look pretty. I am so frustrated, I just never thought this had happened. Oh, and it is the sensibility pattern, and these are dresses that people will borrow from me if they don't have a dress to wear to the ball, and there are ten of them! Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Blood in costumes
Sharon Collier wrote: Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-) ? Only if you have friends to help you hide the body. :) Dawn And a product to help you get the blood out of your clothes. Cheryl Odom College of Santa Fe BTW, If you can't convince your director you mean business, you might want to try Reel Blood which is easier to remove than any other blood product I've tried. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip
monica spence wrote: Do you remember who made that DVD with the Highlander Flashbacks? I teach fashion history and this would be SOO cool. My memory, after so many years, was a product of the production company. l. Your humble and obediant servant, David S Mallinak ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
I got one used from Amazon Canada for under $100, if I remember correctly. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Julie Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 1:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] book lust G I ran into a copy of Moda de Firenze (the Italian Renaissance costuming book) at a Ren Faire this weekend. I was all set to add it to my collection but was shocked at the price. The last time I looked it was going for about $80 U.S. Yesterday it was priced at $148. Has this book really gone up that much in a year or two? Is there another less costly vendor? BTW, on a simiilar note, how much is Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd going for now? Thanks Julie in San Diego ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blood in costumes
Aniline dye. Less messy and appropriate, wouldn't you think? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 5:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Blood in costumes Sharon Collier wrote: Just get rid of the director. It's easier. :-) ? Only if you have friends to help you hide the body. :) Dawn And a product to help you get the blood out of your clothes. Cheryl Odom College of Santa Fe BTW, If you can't convince your director you mean business, you might want to try Reel Blood which is easier to remove than any other blood product I've tried. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip
Thanks. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David S. Mallinak Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 9:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making History Hip monica spence wrote: Do you remember who made that DVD with the Highlander Flashbacks? I teach fashion history and this would be SOO cool. My memory, after so many years, was a product of the production company. l. Your humble and obediant servant, David S Mallinak ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves
I'm not familliar with the pattern you're using, but since you have a limited amount of time, here's what I'd do: Take one dress and finish the sleeves as if they were done correctly: gather the edge into a band. Hold it up. Try it on, if it fits. See if it looks and hangs like a sleeve. See if it's good *enough.* I think it will be, but like I said, I'm not familliar with the pattern. (It may be more poufy at the bottom than the top, or vice-versa, but it may still work). Emma I am trying to finish off some regency gowns that someone else started for me and never finished. I've just realised they put all the short puffed sleeves in back the front - the outer edge that should have a sleeve band on it is gathered to the armhole! Oh why people can't read patterns when they trace them out and draw the notches, I don't know!!! Do you think I can use them, and just gather them in? The dresses are all done and lined, and need to be worn on Friday, so I've run out of time to unpick them all. I've just hand sewn ribbon under all the busts to make them look pretty. I am so frustrated, I just never thought this had happened. Oh, and it is the sensibility pattern, and these are dresses that people will borrow from me if they don't have a dress to wear to the ball, and there are ten of them! Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves
I'm thinking about putting in an elastic casing - being upside down, I don't know if the wearer will be able to move their arm or not with ease. Aylwen On Tue, Apr 15, 2008 at 12:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not familliar with the pattern you're using, but since you have a limited amount of time, here's what I'd do: Take one dress and finish the sleeves as if they were done correctly: gather the edge into a band. Hold it up. Try it on, if it fits. See if it looks and hangs like a sleeve. See if it's good *enough.* I think it will be, but like I said, I'm not familliar with the pattern. (It may be more poufy at the bottom than the top, or vice-versa, but it may still work). Emma I am trying to finish off some regency gowns that someone else started for me and never finished. I've just realised they put all the short puffed sleeves in back the front - the outer edge that should have a sleeve band on it is gathered to the armhole! Oh why people can't read patterns when they trace them out and draw the notches, I don't know!!! Do you think I can use them, and just gather them in? The dresses are all done and lined, and need to be worn on Friday, so I've run out of time to unpick them all. I've just hand sewn ribbon under all the busts to make them look pretty. I am so frustrated, I just never thought this had happened. Oh, and it is the sensibility pattern, and these are dresses that people will borrow from me if they don't have a dress to wear to the ball, and there are ten of them! Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
David Brown Book Company/Oxbow Books carries it too. I can't remember what they're currently charging. www.oxbowbooks.com Arlys David Brown's current listing if for $90 plus shipping (usually $5.00). You need this book. Grab it before it goes out of print and availability completely. It isn't going to get any cheaper to buy and borrowing it from the library, assuming you can get it at all is not the same. The museum is completely bemused at the way the book has been snapped up and not really ready for mass printings. Wanda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves
It depends on the shape of the sleeve. Most short, puffed sleeves I've seen have had a large convex curve at the sleeve head and a smaller convex curve at the bottom. If put in upside down, the sleeve will stick out straighter (more like a T-shirt, less like a suit coat) which may actually allow *more* movement, not less. Elastic sounds like it might be a good compromise. Quoting Aylwen Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm thinking about putting in an elastic casing - being upside down, I don't know if the wearer will be able to move their arm or not with ease. Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book lust G
Julie- A new copy of _Moda a Firenze_ is $99.50US; a new copy of _Queen Elisabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_ is $165.00US. Best price according to www.addall.com right now is is $93.50US at Amazon, with free shipping for Moda, and the best deals on QEWU are from the UK, with Amazon UK at $158.74, including air mail shipping. Good luck book hunting. -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blood in costumes
Only if you have friends to help you hide the body. :) And a product to help you get the blood out of your clothes. BTW, If you can't convince your director you mean business, you might want to try Reel Blood which is easier to remove than any other blood product I've tried. Pig's blood holds it's colour longer than human blood (why horror movie sets smell so bad) which reminds me, pigs will eat all the body parts, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
