[h-cost] HELP!
Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size of the pattern Good luck From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
The way I learned in the sixth grade to enlarge any drawing is to grid it out on the page and then grid out the larger piece of paper according to the desired size--that is, in the case of a pattern illustration, if the illustration as printed is scaled so that 1/4 represents 1, then grid out the illustration in 1/4 squares, and grid out your larger page in 1 squares. Then draw the same lines, in the same positions, in your 1 squares that you see in the corresponding 1/4 squares. This is a pretty reliable method if you have a good eye. An even easier method nowadays is to photocopy the original illustration, and then enlarge it by photocopying on an enlargement setting (enlarge 200%, for example). Or you can scan the illustration, put the scanned image into a layout program like InDesign or into Photoshop, and manipulate the size with the program's enlargement or image size tools. Any of these methods will enable you to enlarge a printed illustration to full-size. As to adjusting for CLOTHING size, I leave that to savvier heads than mine. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Aug 25, 2009, at 9:01 AM, Penny Roberts wrote: I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size of the pattern Good luck From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
I would recommend taking your book (or whatever your pattern is in) down to an office supply store and simply enlarging the pattern until it is the size you need.? This works with quilt patterns, but I am not sure about clothing patterns -Original Message- From: Penny Roberts pennyrobert...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 6:01 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! I use copies of patterns in Excel and use it to increase the size of the pattern Good luck From: ladybeanofbun...@aol.com ladybeanofbun...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42:17 AM Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume No ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if that is not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch must equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the pattern pieces would give a bust of 4 inches, you have to enlarge at least 10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 2.5 inches. It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one and the large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across the top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two. All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to adjust a pattern you already have. For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the back. You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel on each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the back at the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest. If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin, folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an overskirt from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you need to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a closure that is invisible. A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing. Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape the bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs. Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic boning--I had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere. The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy something authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian. Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without illustrations! Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
Does anyone know how to get rid of the smell of moth balls out of cotton fabric? Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
Does anyone know how to get rid of the smell of moth balls out of cotton fabric? Hm... air, air and more air. There might be other techniques, but IMO nothing beats a few hours/days of airing it out thoroughly... You'll probably get the usual recommendations of Febreeze/alcohol sprays as well. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
I'd suggest sunlight with that air. Turn the garment inside out first to avoid fading! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= On Aug 25, 2009, at 9:03 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: Does anyone know how to get rid of the smell of moth balls out of cotton fabric? Hm... air, air and more air. There might be other techniques, but IMO nothing beats a few hours/days of airing it out thoroughly... You'll probably get the usual recommendations of Febreeze/alcohol sprays as well. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Kim Baird wrote: Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I tend to order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every pattern. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
THAT takes us back! Don't know about cotton, but getting mothball smell out of wool can be truly daunting. Many years ago we found a lovely dark grey European-military army blanket at the local Surplus store, just the right size for a winter cloak here in the Pacific NorthWET. Polish or German or something. Anyway, it REEKED of mothball and we worked on it for weeks and almost gave up. My lord remembers that we soaked it in the bathtub (just water) for at least 3 days with multiple changes of water daily (it would turn yellow!), before trying a wash, which was probably Woolite, foot-trodden into in (and out again) in the tub. There was also, he remembers an anti-animal-odor spray of some sort, which was really hard to find back then (but we had 2 cats, one incontinent!), and probably completely unavailable now. This was long before Febreeze, which just adds one scent on top of another odor anyway, doesn't really make anything go away. Good luck! Chimene Gerek I'd suggest sunlight with that air. Turn the garment inside out first to avoid fading! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= On Aug 25, 2009, at 9:03 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: Does anyone know how to get rid of the smell of moth balls out of cotton fabric? Hm... air, air and more air. There might be other techniques, but IMO nothing beats a few hours/days of airing it out thoroughly... You'll probably get the usual recommendations of Febreeze/alcohol sprays as well. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the wall. Enlarge it to the actual size you need and trace onto the paper/sheet. I've never actually done this, but if you have access to the tools, it seems to be a good solution. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Andrew T Trembley attre...@bovil.comwrote: Kim Baird wrote: Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I tend to order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every pattern. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
There are still smell removers out there. Check at a pet store. The one I have is Odo-Shield and I seem to remember that it works, but friends of mine swear by some other stuff, used for removing skunk smell. (sorry, don't know the name) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Patricia Dunham Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 11:51 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell THAT takes us back! Don't know about cotton, but getting mothball smell out of wool can be truly daunting. Many years ago we found a lovely dark grey European-military army blanket at the local Surplus store, just the right size for a winter cloak here in the Pacific NorthWET. Polish or German or something. Anyway, it REEKED of mothball and we worked on it for weeks and almost gave up. My lord remembers that we soaked it in the bathtub (just water) for at least 3 days with multiple changes of water daily (it would turn yellow!), before trying a wash, which was probably Woolite, foot-trodden into in (and out again) in the tub. There was also, he remembers an anti-animal-odor spray of some sort, which was really hard to find back then (but we had 2 cats, one incontinent!), and probably completely unavailable now. This was long before Febreeze, which just adds one scent on top of another odor anyway, doesn't really make anything go away. Good luck! Chimene Gerek I'd suggest sunlight with that air. Turn the garment inside out first to avoid fading! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= On Aug 25, 2009, at 9:03 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: Does anyone know how to get rid of the smell of moth balls out of cotton fabric? Hm... air, air and more air. There might be other techniques, but IMO nothing beats a few hours/days of airing it out thoroughly... You'll probably get the usual recommendations of Febreeze/alcohol sprays as well. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge. If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some good book or good teacher to help learn. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Hi, there´s a method called radial projection or something like that. Get a rather large copy of the pattern you want to make and have the scale on the copy. Glue the copy on a large sheet of paper. Choose one point in a corner of the pattern piece and draw long lines from there through the important points. One after another, multiply these distances with the factor you need to get the full-size scale and mark this new distance on the line. Connect all important points and you will get a full scale pattern. I find it hard to explain without a drawing how to do it, and my English is quite tired right now, but I hope you understand what I mean. It´s really easy and a lot faster than using a grid - which is a method where usually can´t count the boxes and end up with a really strange pattern piece... Hanna At 10:42 25.08.2009, you wrote: Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my first bustle dress, or make for myself a bustle since my budget is not allowing any new acquirements. At one point before I got very enthusiastic about doing this, as I have many times, but got so overwhelmed before even starting due to facing the dred task of grading that it never came into fruition. I would try ordering a pattern from one of the many good sellers of period patterns, but I want something very specific, I don't have time to wait for one to arrive, and I can't afford to spend on one (especially since I spent so much for the three books new which have hundreds of patterns). The pieces given scare me in each scaled down pattern, because I know quite often, to acheive from the basic pieces the glorious ensemble presented in the illustrations, there is usually a good deal of improvising and use of skill the handy seamstress must utilize to do so! Here are my main questions. 1: How do I enlarge the tiny pieces in the book the simplest, quickest, or least math saavy way? 2: Once I have the pieces enlarged and they are adjusted to my size and I'm ready to cut, how do I assemble a bustle skirt?? These are NOT simple one or two sentence answers I know, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated right about now. I've used period patterns that I bought multi-sized and kinda had to play with those until they fit me the right away and could figure out basic construction but this seems so daunting having never done it before. Thank you so very much for the kind person who can help, and to all others for your patience:) Regards, Justine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
There are still smell removers out there. Check at a pet store. The one I have is Odo-Shield and I seem to remember that it works, but friends of mine swear by some other stuff, used for removing skunk smell. (sorry, don't know the name) That's specifically for protein-based smells, if I'm not mistaken, so I'm not sure it will work on mothballs, which are chemical. There's a product out there called Smelleze™ Moth Ball Deodorizer... no idea how well it works. Also, a nice how-to here http://www.ehow.com/how_4453525_get-rid-mothball-smell.html Basically, all web sites say don't try to wash it first and hang it out in the sun. It takes time, but it works. Heat helps degrading the molecules, so if the item can be ironed, that seems to help too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc. Where can the gridded pattern pattern be found? I do believe I've seen the gridded quilters interfacing at the craft store and will give them a call today to see if they carry any. I once scaled up a pattern for a skirt from Jane Arnold's book and it went amazingly well, size adjustments weren't even necessary in the end. What made it easier was the fact that her patterns are laid out over the 1/4 grids, whereas the pattern parts in the Frances Grimble books are just on plain paper. I guess it's time to tear the house apart to find my olf writing tablet that has the 1/4 graph paper on the back so I can trace them first onto there, and maybe use tissue paper to redraw them over my 1 grid quilting board? I'll see how far I get first just trying to get workable patterns from the book before I continue worrying about how to piece the dress together. The one thing I am curious about is using the tapes on the skirt without boning as described in the original instructions for how the dress is made. What were they for, are they meant to be moveable like the pleating tape they sell for window shades that has little rings where cord is run through to open and close, but in this case so one can adjust the skirt freely and as desired? I've studied period pieces, bustle styles but only have one early original in my collection do far to study from in terms of construction inside and out, but it was a very basic piece that I think was remade from a hoop skirt, so it lacks all the pleats and folds of the elaborate later styles, just cartridge pleating along the back waistband. Unless there was an overskirt that was lost. Thanks again and talk soon. -Justine. -Justine. -Original Message- From: Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:42 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. You need to overlay your small pattern with a quarter-inch grid, if that is not already done in your source. Then figure out what each quarter inch must equal on your finished pattern to fit you. If your bust is 42, and the pattern pieces would give a bust of 4 inches, you have to enlarge at least 10 times. So each quarter inch would have to be 10 quarters, which is 2.5 inches. It is much easier to enlarge if you number both grids, the small one and the large one. Just number each row down the side, and each column across the top. Then you won't get lost when looking between the two. All this takes a lot of time, and a big table. It would be far easier to adjust a pattern you already have. For a late Victorian bustle dress, just keep all the fullness in the back. You could modify any skirt that has 5 or more panels. I usually make the center front panel about 1/6 of the total finished size, use one panel on each side, and 2 or 4 more in the back. Then I keep gathering up the back at the waist until fits, and add some sort of waistband. You can have the opening at any of the seams, but center back is easiest. If you want an overskirt or draped apron of any kind, work with muslin, folding and pinning until you get the shape you want, then make an overskirt from your fashin fabric and attach it to the skirt. This is where you need to get creative with placement of snaps and hooks and eyes. You need a closure that is invisible. A simple way to form a bustle is to use boning and ties. I put 2 rows of twill tape, or something similar, inside the skirt. These are HORIZONTAL rows, on the back only. Sew along the top and bottom to form a casing. Boning goes into the casing. Attach a tie at each end of the casing, and simply tie the ends together, forcing the boning to bow out and shape the bustle. The ties rest on the back of your legs. Of course, you wear a petticoat. And you can't use cheap plastic boning--I had some plastic-covered metal stuff I ordered from somewhere. The bodice is trickier--I would either enlarge from a book, or buy something authentic from Laughing Moon or Truly Victorian. Don't know if this is very helpful--it's hard to explain without illustrations! Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of ladybeanofbun...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 3:42 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] HELP! Hello all, I am in need of some help from an experienced pattern enlarging bustle dress maker! I woud like to throw together my
Re: [h-cost] Remove Moth Ball Smell
Thank you. I appreciate this info, as I have my Mom's old kimonos (also from WWII era) to try and demothball. She used it everywhere, so the trunks those are in are in a storage shed as I can't handle the smell. I am just worried about the silks, as I know silk degrades in the sun. Hopefully I can gently iron the smell out. Or air them in our garage which gets hot. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Audrey Bergeron-Morin audreybmo...@gmail.com Also, a nice how-to here http://www.ehow.com/how_4453525_get-rid-mothball-smell.html Basically, all web sites say don't try to wash it first and hang it out in the sun. It takes time, but it works. Heat helps degrading the molecules, so if the item can be ironed, that seems to help too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the armscye, for example, too large, too small, or in the wrong place. It's a place to start, though. Patty From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge. If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some good book or good teacher to help learn. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Help
Grid square or image blow up only gets you so far. The big catch is your body is not not like the body in the pattern... and it's not just a matter of grading to size up. If you're working off a grid pattern made for modern bodies.. grids will work... if you know the original measurements that the pattern was made for before it was reduced... say the quarter inch become 1. You divide your measurements into theirs. ie if you waist is 1.5 times bigger than the pattern, but you're .75 of their length, and your bust is the same... You have to shorten the pattern by a quarter while expanding the waist 50%. (This worked well for me blowing up Hunnisseete patterns.) The bust will be closer... but you are still going to need to mock it up and adjust the curves a bit. The problem you get into when doing this from a period pattern, the body shape is a LOT different due to corset, standard posture, etc. You are going to have to do a LOT more adjusting. The skirts will be easier than a bodice... since the skirts are mostly just long lines that can be adjusted by just pivoting. Your bodice pieces aren't nearly as forgiving. You can enlarge the square grid by math and then you can do standard pattern adjustment of clip and pivot, BUT... unless you know the measurements the pattern was made for... you're kinda stuck there... Oh, and don't forget on measurements... you're talking about over the underpinings to get your corseted waist and bust Personally... for the bodice area... I think a better bet is to drape the bodice over the underpinnings on the person who the dress is for. Look at the book for the shape of the draped pieces... ie where to put the seams, side, bust aligned, collar, etc. Another advantage of this, in the sleeve area, you make the decision if you want to really make the sleeves as restrictive as they were for that period, or add more modern movement. (You're not as accurate, but if you're not into wearing historical garments as much, you may choose movement over accuracy.) -Cat- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc. You can, however, still find small projectors at craft stores. I've purchased the gridded pattern interfacing at JoAnn's, and in fact, as soon as DH finds a job, I'm going to have to make a serious supply run. Need interfacing, embroidery stabilizer, just general basics. When I don't have the gridded interfacing on hand, a roll of white paper from an office supply store and a quilter's ruler work too. Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
I have a projector that doesn't require the transparencies. It can use a book or a photo, turn it on and it's projected onto the wall or onto a fabric hanging up. I used it for making large logo wall murals, a celtic knot design on a bed sheet for a quilt, taking small photos and creating charcoal portraits. It cost about $199 a few years back but well worth it then and now. I'd have to dig it out of my closet to tell you the brand. I think Art-o-graph, but I'll check. My sister used it this week for a quilt design and I don't know where she put it. BUT I promise I'll let you know in the morning when I clean up the crafts room. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine From: goo...@comcast.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:36:41 -0400 Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! Thank you everyone so much for your suggestions. The recommendation on using a projector has always intrigued me but the unfortunate thing is that now days people who would or did once use them are less likely to, since the upgraded technology has led many to discard the old projector and adopt newer systems such as power point slides, etc. You can, however, still find small projectors at craft stores. I've purchased the gridded pattern interfacing at JoAnn's, and in fact, as soon as DH finds a job, I'm going to have to make a serious supply run. Need interfacing, embroidery stabilizer, just general basics. When I don't have the gridded interfacing on hand, a roll of white paper from an office supply store and a quilter's ruler work too. Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what you’re up to on Facebook. http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still only getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their particular proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a mock-up, and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you. But I think you knew that :-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu wrote: Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the armscye, for example, too large, too small, or in the wrong place. It's a place to start, though. Patty From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge. If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some good book or good teacher to help learn. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
