Re: [h-cost] Need information on sacque garments (NOT the dress)

2011-09-15 Thread Sheridan Alder
Now I feel like a total beeyotch - I have Rexford's book after drooling all 
over a university copy! (mopped it up with a tissue as fair as I was able) 
would recommend it to anyone and everyone.
 
Still - I'm sure that she's learned reams and realms in the ten for fifteen 
years since she worked on that collection and worked on her book. She might 
even be the first to admit it. I'm sure we can all think of a topic that we 
dived into and totally overturned our original perceptions after a few years 
research. give her mega-credit because her book is first-rate and she did heaps 
of research - and it's an enjoyable read. Makes the angel in the house and 
protective attitude towards American woman attitude much more understandable - 
from their perspective - almost enlightened.
 
At the same time it seems strange that she would choose to try to pin the term 
sacque on what seems to be usually described as a garden-variety shirt. But 
perhaps she was trying to make her mark - Rexford describes these garments as 
a sacque yadda, yadda - sort of like that paper on shortgowns, versus 
bedgowns versus jackets, etc.
 
I will forgive her anything, short of international terrorism, for her book.
 
Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa (or words to that effect.)
 
I love Nancy Rexford and her research.
 
Sheridan Alder

From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 8:51:30 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need information on sacque garments (NOT the dress)

Not only that, but the actual working space was...well, horrible.  Dirty, 
poorly lit, and very (very) crowded -- not quite attic space, but very close.  
It's slightly better now.  The ladies have since cleared out a tiny back room, 
tearing down filthy tattered 1840's wallpaper (and saving as much as they 
could) so they could scrub and paint.  It is now our clean space and even 
tinier because we just assembled shelving in there for our new storage boxes.

Everything else is still very crowded and precariously hung on leaning donated 
coat racks -- sacques and mens' shirts are still on wire hangers.

Nothing was done with the collection for 15 years after she cataloged as much 
as she could reach, and a lot of it was jammed into that tiny (filthy) room 
until very recently.

Have I ever posted a link?

www.townsendhistoricalsociety.org

...a little more:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_Homestead

...and we're on TV!

www.tv.com/shows/ghost-hunters/ghostly-evidence-1395703

A film crew showed up to record our ghostly happenings a few months ago.  Has 
anyone seen the this episode of Ghost Hunters?  Maybe... 150 years ago (?) a 
grieving mother, mourning the death of her daughter, hanged herself off the top 
of the staircase. We all grip onto that post when we climb upstairs (steps are 
very steep).  It's a sad story, and I hope that poor mother has found peace.

Dede


--- On Thu, 9/15/11, annbw...@aol.com annbw...@aol.com wrote:
Oh, my goodness, she is one of THE authorities. Of course, all of us costume 
historians have learned a great deal in the last 15 years and, as you point 
out, she was faced with an enormous task. She might very well have different 
readings on some of these things now herself.

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Re: [h-cost] Need information on sacque garments (NOT the dress)

2011-09-14 Thread Sheridan Alder
Excuse me if someone else has already thrown out this suggestion, but my 
impression is simple - the 1995 cataloguer just plain wasn't knowledgeable 
about historical clothing! The VCR was a good old antique video recording - 
probably lost to posterity - and possible a good thing. 
 
They probably hired someone out of a community college program or even a 
friend who needed a job. Then they looked at a couple of local public library 
books (and some public libraries have decent costume sections and other are 
pathetic) and jumped to that conclusion. I'm not dumping on them - they did the 
best they could with what they had and for what they were paid.
 
For example, in a heritage review of our neighbourhood, a student once labelled 
our home as a saltbox. They had little idea of what a real saltbox looked 
like. The saltbox addition was an incomplete 1980's addition - besides the 
fact that real saltboxes are rare in Canada. I could go on and on about museums 
or historic houses we've visited that have misidentified items.
 
Closer to costume, my husband is on a special assignment (essentially 
curatorial) with Parks Canada. It's probably the equivalent of the U.S. 
National Parks Service?? Reviewing the Parks Canada collections and records, 
he's full of stories of misidentification and incomplete records of original 
artefacts and donors, etc. etc. On the other hand he's very knowledgable about 
militaria, as well as material culture in general, so he's having the time of 
his life examining and properly identifying artifacts.
 
I'm so jealous I could puke ;-) The frightening thing is the number of people 
with 30+ years of experience who are going to retire and be replaced by young 
people who have no eye  and no experience or knowledge. But that's how it 
goes. You have to start somewhere.
 
Right now, a person with half a clue needs to look at those items with a fresh 
eye. There are a variety of titles on men's shirts out there - but I have to 
work tomorrow!
 
Sheridan Alder

From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 11:29:50 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Need information on sacque garments (NOT the dress)

Back at the Reed Homestead... we are moving on to the next pile -- stacks and 
stacks of shirt-like garments with no closures (other than a few with ties at 
the neck).

We hired a woman in 1995 to start pulling clothing literally out of garbage 
bags and start cataloging. (Sadly, we still have pieces from 1809 still in 
garbage bags -- yes, the black plastic kind.)  She called these shirt-like 
garments sacques and this is want she wrote about them...

...I would like someone after me to write the word sacque which is what 
we're going to use for the generic term.  A sacque is a garment which hangs 
from the shoulder down without interruption, without darts, without a waist 
seam, so a man's sacque coat is one that was not cut in at the waist.  And that 
seems to be a generic form for this style if garment, no matter how it's being 
used, but as I said before and you got on the VCR I think, these can be used as 
a working garment with a skirt, held in place with an apron.  They can be used 
as a short nightgown for hot weather and when somebody is ill and is using a 
bedpan.  They can be used over your dress when you're doing your hair and 
that's probably about it.  Oh, yes, and the other thing is for maternity, when 
it's an expandable top for when you're pregnant and obviously can be used for 
nursing as well.  And nobody has as many as you have.

We have attempted to locate information about this type of garment, but clearly 
we're looking in the wrong places because we're coming up empty. We can find 
saques certainly but they don't look like ours.

Any ideas?

Dede O'Hair
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[h-cost] FYI -Re: New RMS Titanic and Fashion week: Images Online August 2011

2011-08-25 Thread Sheridan Alder



Subject: New RMS Titanic and Fashion week: Images Online August 2011

   
www.bl.uk  
August 2011  
Images Online   
Dear Sheridan,

Welcome to the August edition of the new look Images Online newsletter. This 
month we are featuring images from our RMS Titanic collection as well as a 
beautiful selection of illustrations, inspired by London Fashion Week, by the 
French Illustrator, George Barbier. 
Browse and buy our images

   
 What's in this issue:

 New Titanic Collection London Fashion Week New Images Online Website   
  Image Calendar  
  
New RMS Titanic Collection    
Setting sail from Southampton Harbour on the 10 April 1912, the Titanic 
represented the pinnacle of maritime technology of the day. It was said that as 
far as it was possible to do so, the Titanic had been designed to be unsinkable 
and while also measuring in at 270 metres in length the ship was certainly a 
magnificent sight. But on the 14 April 1912 the Titanic struck an iceberg and 
sunk in the early hours of the 15 April. Approximately 1,500 people lost their 
lives in the disaster.  

In the run-up to the 100 year anniversary of the launch and sinking of the RMS 
Titanic, the British Library has a new collection of incredible images 
available to view and licence on our Images Online website. The collection 
includes spectacular shots of the ship as well as SOS notes.    
   
 View Images
  
London  Fashion Week   
To celebrate London Fashion Week (16 - 21 September), The British Library has a 
fantastic selection of fashion images including illustrations by the great 
French illustrator, George Barbier.
 

All of these are available on the Images Online website. 


   
   
 View Images  
  
 New  Images Online 
Website   
 Image  Calendar  
 This is just to remind everybody that Images Online have a new website, packed 
with features :


* Improved Searching 
* PLUS Pricing 
* Image Flexibility 
* New Image Alerts  On the Images Online website we have a Historic 
Images Calendar. The Calendar, featuring images commemorating historical events 
is there to help you find that telling image for notable events and 
anniversaries.

Click on the link below to go to the calendar and discover fascinating facts 
about significant events, births and deaths from around the world .   

 View Images 
 View Images  
Follow us on Twitter!  Images Online
has a new facebook page ! 
  
 Discover  the world's knowledge www.bl.uk    

The British Library respects your privacy  and only sends emails about or 
services to registered customers and subscribers to our email newsletters. To 
unsubscribe from this newsletter, follow this link 

Any suggestions or comments about this newsletter?


Copyright (c) The British Library Board
The British Library, 96 Euston Road, London, NW1 2DB
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Re: [h-cost] Dating a couple garments

2010-02-12 Thread Sheridan Alder
Late 70's? I have one in high school.
 
Sheridan Alder

--- On Fri, 2/12/10, Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net wrote:


From: Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net
Subject: [h-cost] Dating a couple garments
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Received: Friday, February 12, 2010, 3:47 PM


Does anyone recall when dolman sleeved swing jackets were popular?  Was it the 
80s or the 90s?  I'm trying to sell some old clothes and they have to be at 
least 20 years old to put them up on etsy in the vintage section.  I can send 
photos if I can figure out how to do so on this list.




Sylvia Rognstad
Costume/clothing design  construction
Alterations  home dec
http://www.ezzyworld.com




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[h-cost] Vikings and Canada and linen and China - oh my!

2009-10-01 Thread Sheridan Alder
I think that this poster is getting Canada and China confused! ;-)

According to this:

http://www.ontariohempalliance.org/info/BastFibreinChina.pdf
 
Today, China has emerged as the clear leader in the bast fibre textile 
processing
industry for flax/linen, hemp and ramie, with flax as a major pillar of the 
Chinese textile
industry. The Chinese have currently about 65-75,000 ha of flax fibre and 
20,000 ha of
hemp fibre field production. The predominant and largest end use of bast fibres 
in China
is for textile with some new developments emerging in application to paper 
production.
 
A Canuck,
 
Sheridan the elder (who wishes we were big linen producers because the lovely 
stuff is so pricey here!)





From: Elena House exst...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 7:37:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?

On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 5:35 PM, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote:
 However, once they learned to weave from the Vikings, who knows what they
 might have created? Look what the Navajo did once they got some sheep.

Right now, Canada is by far the biggest producer and exporter of flax,
so I bet that a Vinland industry would have taken off!  Canada also
produces a good deal of hemp, so between the two I think it's safe to
guess that my Vinland fashionistas would have worn at least some
linen.

I don't think it would have taken more than a couple of centuries for
sheep to spread across the Americas.  I have a feeling they would have
been a big hit with the locals, once all the technical aspects had
been passed along.

The Norse managed to travel pretty far in the other hemisphere, both
by water and by land--I wonder how far they might go, to trade in the
Americas?  It wouldn't shock me to see some trade with South American
indigenous people.

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] Underwear Review of Arnold vol 4

2008-10-26 Thread Sheridan Alder
I believe there's a number of librarians on this list, like myself.

Did anyone else note the first image of the be-spectacled models clutching red 
books matching their scarlet bras? Naughty librarians!

Note to self - must buy red bra. 
Second note to self - don't forget to button up shirt before going to work, 
though. 

Sheridan Alder




 http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Another Historical Wedding Question

2007-12-20 Thread Sheridan Alder
Being Scottish isn't like having venereal disease - there's a limit to how far 
you can take it with you!

A Canadian, or someone living in Canada,  would be covered by Canadian laws 
regarding marriage, and someone in London, England (as opposed to London, 
Ontario) would is residing in Britain and is covered by British law. It 
wouldn't matter a fiddler's fornication if you were Scottish or Lebanese, as I 
understand it. The late 19th century is pretty modern in my opinion - they're 
getting pretty tight-assed about marriage. I can't see it being legal or 
acceptable, but if it's a novel, wellI would recommend checking British AND 
Canadian law.

I have a book on the history of marriage in Canada, and came across no mention 
on marriage by correspondence.

Sheridan Alder
 
Disciplining poor grammar, spelling and logic since 2007



- Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:24:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Another Historical Wedding Question

In a message dated 12/20/2007 1:01:01 PM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
 Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 11:06:46 -0700
 From: costumeraz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Historical Wedding Question
 To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=windows-1250
 
 Try this link at Wikipedia - it gives a wee bit more info on the Marriage by
 Correspondence.
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nullity_(conflict)
 
 Laurie T. 
 

OOH! That's a bit better. But would it apply in the late 1800's and if both 
people were Scottish, but one lived in London and the other in Toronto?
  
Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Victorian costume collection

2007-09-19 Thread Sheridan Alder
Hi:
 
Kathy, what size are the gowns and what prices are you thinking? 

I'm sorta interested in either the Victorian or 18th century gowns, even though 
I probably shouldn't be buying ANYTHING right now. I'm a size 14 for the 
forseeable future, although I have fantasies of dieting, but I'm 5'9.

Sheridan


- Original Message 
From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:31:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Victorian costume collection


Where are you?

Sylvia

I am about an hour's drive west of Toronto, Ontario. But I'm happy to ship to 
anywhere in the world. :-) 

I just realised that my soon-to-be ex had uploaded all of my portfolio to his 
Picasa account, thinking I needed a copy. I had them in my drive, but this is a 
convenient mistake:
http://picasaweb.google.com/49victor/KathySCostuming
It's not sorted yet, and I don't currently have access to the account to do any 
sorting. Any men's wear, children's wear or anything pre-1600 is not for sale. 
Anything else I will consider. Although I would really like to keep my hoop 
dress, the right price will sell it. I can always make another one.

I am so sorry to hear that. Where do you live? I can paint/sew, etc. and
would be happy to help. I'm pretty good with tools, too. Comes from years as
a theatre tech.
For the costumes:
This was posted on Tribe

Lost Colony buildings destroyed in fire snip

Sharon

Hm I wonder if I called to offer my collection, we could come to an 
arrangement. 

Thanks for the offer. If you were anywhere near me, I'd have you here in a 
heartbeat. :-) I have so much to do, all little annoying things, some need 
professionals. My SIL is a lighting engineer and interior designer that used to 
stage houses for realtors, so as far as that goes, I have a good consultant. We 
are having a grand time spending his money to fix the house he no longer lives 
in. ;-) 


Have you heard the one about the woman whose husband and new girlfriend/wife
wanted to move into her home, which she couldn't afford now he had dumped
her? She put fresh shrimp in the hollow curtain rods and moved out. 

*L* Yes, I have heard it. I thought about pushing a chunk of roadkill into the 
mattress, but I'd have to find a way of opening a seam, then replacing it 
without being noticeable. I just thought my perfume would be nauseating enough 
to him that he won't sleep well. This is the stuff that he said not long ago he 
liked because it reminded him of me. And incidentally, my mother bought me so 
much of it, I could bathe in the lotion and bottles of perfume. I'm just going 
to spray, smear and powder that damned thing until it reeks, then package it up 
in plastic, looking like I am being pleasant and efficient. It'll be too late 
by the time he gets it to his cozy, furnished and convenient little basement 
apartment that he'll be stuck with it. He can't afford to buy a new one now, 
anyway. The smell will go away - eventually.

Yes, I am evil!

Kathy
~who's ex thinks my making comments in an email about cold beds is funny. He 
didn't see my face when I wrote it~

Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or 
barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert
(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lions head erased gules. 
It’s never too late to be who you might have been.
-George Eliot
Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. 
Who you are is contained inside, and no one can change that. They can only 
assist you in denying who you are, but not indelibly reshape you to their own 
image.



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[h-cost] Good late 1820's patterns -an anyone recommend ?

2007-09-19 Thread Sheridan Alder
Greetings everyone:

Can anyone recommend a c. 1820's pattern? - quick delivery, fairly accurate, 
instructions that are not to hard to follow, yadda, yadda.

I usually draft my own patterns, but I'm tired of messing around and tweaking 
designs.

The usual story - last minute project idea, etc.

Sheridan Alder


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[h-cost] Peach silk for sale?

2007-07-29 Thread Sheridan Alder
Hello:

I'll probably get my knuckles rapped for trying to flog stuff on the list, but 
my excuse is that members of h-costume group will probably appreciate it more 
than anyone else - I have silk I'd like to sell.

Some time ago I purchased 10 yards of peach 100% silk because it was a good 
price at Designer Textiles in Toronto. I've finally admitted to myself that 
peach isn't really my colour, if I dye it I will ruin it, and I have way, way 
too much stuff - fabric, projects, etc. already!
 
It's 56 inches wide and has good body - it's not that limp china silk. 

It's very similar in colour (identical?) to the silk dress on pages 66-67 of 
Revolution in Fashion: 1715-1815. That's probably why I bought it! While it's 
not ribbed like that fabric, it does have an asymetrical stripe pattern woven 
in. I could see it as an 18th c. gown or even a bustle gown - not that it's any 
of my business how anyone decides to use it! I've even seen a peach Civil War 
era gown somewhere.

I'd sell it for $150 U.S. That would include shipping. Paypal would be good.

Let me know if you want pictures. I'm still strugglling to figure out my 
digital camera, so it would be good practice for me.

I also have 10 yards of blue and silver striped silk (narrow stripes) but I 
have to find it to measure the width. I was thinking Victorian day or evening 
dress when I bought it. 


Sheridan Alder


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Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT Baggy)

2007-06-20 Thread Sheridan Alder
I'm reminded of coming across a 1940's newspaper clipping that shorts were 
being banned in some small Ontario town (which shall remain nameless in its 
shame) in the archives of Fort Malden, Parks Canada, when I  was the resource 
centre specialist there.

Laugh, I thought I'd die. That edict didn't have much effect, did it?

I'm tired of the baggy pants look too, but recently I met an contemporary 
(50's) who was wearing alarmingly tight, pencil-leg jeans and had dyed his hair 
in a ponytail. Not a good look either.

Sheridan Alder



- Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:00:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] How clothing style can effect law (RE to OT Baggy)


In a message dated 6/19/2007 4:05:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Delcambre is a small town and several town citizens complained  about this 
style of dress

Now you know the rest of the story.



So if several citizens [I wonder how many] complained, say about  churches 
in town because they were atheists, I'm sure the town council would  create a 
law banning churches, right?

The rest of the story sounds just like the 1st part of the  storystupid! 
What did you think I thought had happened? That it was just a  whim? It's 
still pitiful.









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Re: [h-cost] volunteering

2007-06-20 Thread Sheridan Alder
Treat it like a real interview. Dress nicely, speak intelligently but politely. 
If you don't have time to do some background reading, express an interest in 
learning and being guided. If you tend to be shy, let them know you are 
interested in improving your communication skills speaking to the public 
(you'll be surprised - excellent and relevant experience for other jobs, not to 
mention job interviews!)

 I'm shocked by the stories I'm heard of the number of people that are 
interviewed for jobs at historic sites and don't even bother to skim the 
information pamphlets available in the entrance! Read that and memorize what 
you can, at least, even while you are waiting for your interview. That might 
show more horse sense than all the others being interviewed.

The trendy thing nowadays is asking applicants to provide an example of a time 
that you had to deal with a difficult situation, customer, etc. Try to think of 
something, even if it seems pitiful at the time - like, when my sister tries 
to pick a fight with me, I just walk away and refuse to fight. A safe response 
might be, I asked my supervisor for advice to deal with the situation.

Try to demonstrate good judgement and common sense and a willingness to follow 
the guidance of the staff. Don't contradict the permanent staff in front of 
visitors. Don't use your volunteer position as an opening to grind your own axe 
- mouth off to the public about your personally held political beliefs, etc. or 
old cliches about the past. At the same time, a volunteer shouldn't have to 
tolerate harassment from the public - like sexual harassment from male 
visitors, for example, or rascist rants. If it's a mediocre site, be prepared 
to accept and repeat their mouldy-oldy party line about the olden times. 

Ask a few questions yourself - how many hours they want to to volunteer, what 
kind of role do volunteers play - cleaning, interpreting, cash, shop, general 
dogsbody? Will you be in period costume or in their uniform? How many 
volunteers and how many staff they have? Do they have large events or school 
programs? Do they have a Friends of  group? Who are they funded by - state or 
local government?

Our WWI group volunteer yearly at John McCrae House, the author of In Flanders 
Fields. At first the site wasn't very interested - shy of reenactors.  Now we 
volunteer every year. I think it helped that no one in our group was an 
aggressive or wacko reenactor type - we just wanted to help out the site, show 
off our cool original artefacts and interpret a period / war that was somewhat 
neglected. We are all pretty moderate, helpful types and in return the staff 
and regular volunteers provide some great chili! I have a lot of respect for 
teachers after a day of volunteering - I'm exhausted after talking to visitors 
all day.

I'd do some background reading first. That's a lie - I'm a librarian so I'd do 
lots of reading! The local public library can probably supply information on 
the background of that particular site and the family that lived there, general 
background reading of historical events of that time period, etc. If you Google 
Harriet Beecher Stowe, for example, I believe there is a full text version of 
the American Woman's Home (or whatever it was called) online. Know something 
about domestic arrangements, standards of living and farming. Modestly let them 
know you prepared for the interview?

If you aren't accepted this year, don't take it personally. They probably don't 
hate you. Maybe they can only accept a few people and one person was just an 
teensy, weensy bit better in the interview. People respect you when you keep 
trying. Apply again next year or somewhere else and prepare a little more next 
time.

I'm obviously middle-aged - I'm so full of advice!

Sheridan Alder




- Original Message 
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:54:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] volunteering


I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at 
a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house, 
but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and 
they're nice.

Wish me luck. I don't know if they're going to interview me tomorrow or 
have me come back later, but I'm nervous I'll say something stupid and 
they won't want me. I got turned away from another volunteer job at a 
site once because I didn't have any experience 'interpreting'. I'm 
hoping this one goes better. They seem a lot more low-key.

Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'?



Dawn

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