[h-cost] Mary Rose jerkin patterns [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
I am starting to make a pattern for my husband of one of the leather jerkins from the Mary Rose (details in Before the Mast). The ship sank in 1545. Does anyone know why almost all the jerkins have skirts which are shorter at the back than the front? As far as we can tell from looking at illustrations of people living on the land in the same period, it is only the mariners' jerkins which have this feature Any ideas? thanks Annette Annette Wilson Editor, Flora of Australia Australian Biological Resources Study Parks Australia Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities GPO Box 787 CANBERRA ACT 2601 AUSTRALIA ph: +61 (0)2 6250 9417 fax: +61 (0)2 6250 9448 email: annette.wil...@environment.gov.au If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] English Version of Kleidung im Mittelalter [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
This was forwarded to another list I'm on, and I thought it would be of interest Annette Wilson -- Forwarded message -- From: Katrin Kania katrin.ka...@pallia.net Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2012 at 3:04 AM Subject: [MEDTC-DISCUSS] English Version of Kleidung im Mittelalter To: medtc-disc...@yahoogroups.com Hello, as some of you might know, my dissertation about construction and sewing technique of medieval garments in Europe from 500 to 1500, titled Kleidung im Mittelalter was published in 2010 as the German original. I have been getting requests to publish it in English as well and have been looking for a publishing house for this. Unfortunately, it is not the easiest of things to find a suitable house that is interested in publication. I have, however, now found one that is considering a publication. It's not all settled yet, but if you are interested in buying an English version and would like to be informed about developments, you can subscribe to an infoletter here: http://togs-from-bogs.blogspot.com/2012/01/quest-for-numbers-again.html With your subscription, you are also signaling your interest so the publisher and me so we can figure out how big the print run can be, and you give us an indication for pricing. And please pass on this information - the more people know about it, the better! Thanks and all the best, Katrin -- Katrin Kania: Kleidung im Mittelalter. Materialien - Konstruktion - N?htechnik. Ein Handbuch. 529 S. mit 357 s/w-Abb. und 51 farb. Abb. auf 24 Taf. B?hlau-Verlag K?ln 2010. Preis 67,90 ? ISBN 978-3-412-20482-2 Dr. Katrin Kania M.A. An der Lauseiche 8 91058 Erlangen Telefon: 09131-816665 mobil: 0160-91614276 www.pallia.net Blog (englisch) auf togs-from-bogs.blogspot.com If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Uniquely You dress form question [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
I found a second-hand Uniquely You dress form - a very rare beast in Australia. It must be at least twenty years old based on the condition of the foam where it has been exposed to light at the neck. It's about the right size, but when I removed the cover to alter it I found that the foam body has taken on the shape of the cover and it is too long in the waist for me. I have had a look on the web and found a picture of the form in its original shape without a cover. It shows that when new, the form doesn't have a waist line but is much the same thickness from breasts to hip. Have any of you had any experience with reshaping one of these dress forms? If I leave the cover off, will the foam gradually spring back towards the original shape?? I wish I could get a new one, but the quoted shipping charges to Australia are more than twice the cost of the dummy thanks in advance for any help or comments Annette Wilson (in Canberra, Australia) If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] visiting eastern USA [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions and recommendations, both on and off-list We had planned to bypass Washington, having spent several days there a couple of years ago, but the Spanish Art and Armor is just too tempting :-) Stauton sounds really interesting as well, but I don't think we will have time for it this time round. I have started a list for next time already :-( This sort of travel is a real juggling act between time spent on the road getting from place to place, and having plenty of time when you get where you are going. Annette Wilson -- Message: 5 Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 11:24:34 -0500 (CDT) From: vbe...@gower.net Subject: Re: [h-cost] visiting eastern USA - recommendations of thingstosee?[SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 2510.129.114.241.117.1247156674.squir...@webmail.gower.net Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 I've misplaced the original message, so I don't know how far you are planning to get into Virginia, but you might want to consider the Museum of American Frontier Culture at Staunton in the Shenandoah Valley. They have structures and interpreters from the 1600s and 1700s from England, Ireland, Germany, and West Africa, culminating in an 1850s American homestead. Vicki Betts We hope to get to Plimoth and Jamestown reenactment villages but are looking for other places of interest to see - historical or costume-related, but not as late period as the Civil War. Any recommendations? The Smithsonian in Washington DC springs to mind. Or all of DC, really. Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume End of h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 240 * -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] visiting eastern USA - recommendations of things to see? [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Hi everyone, I am travelling to the USa next week with my husband and we will have about a week near the East Coast between about Philadelphia and Richmond. We will be hiring a car in Pittburgh and travelling around before we go to the SCA's Pennsic War. The area of travel is influenced by where friends live. We hope to get to Plimoth and Jamestown reenactment villages but are looking for other places of interest to see - historical or costume-related, but not as late period as the Civil War. Any recommendations? thanks in advance Annette Wilson (Canberra, Australia) -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
The Fan Museum in Greenwich is very interesting Annette -- Original Message -- Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems To: h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 20090608.081558.673...@webmail13.dca.untd.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 I always recommend Sir John Soane's Museum and The Wallace Collection. Karen Seamstrix -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] stitching on ruffs [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Until recently I had thought that the figure-of-eight ruffs were never stitched to hold the shape, but last week I found a portrait in a current Sotherby's catalogue for a sale of Old Master and early British paintings. This is the link to the catalogue: http://www.sothebys.com/app/paddleReg/paddlereg.do?dispatch=eventDetails event_id=29138 and the particular painting is: http://www.sothebys.com/app/live/lot/LotDetail.jsp?lot_id=159527660 The ruff is formed with a lattice effect, intersecting 4 times, and there is a pearl at every intersection, with a group of 3 pearls at the top and bottom edge. I think the pearls are stitched on, rather than representing pin-heads, especially given the groups of pearls at top and bottom. It would be a nightmare to reset after washing. I have never seen anything similar - has anyone else? Suzi, is this similar to the one you referred to. Needless to say I have downloaded it for future reference. Annette Wilson - Message: 2 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:39:41 +0200 From: Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de Subject: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 200904091839.n39iduov018...@net.indra.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Hello, has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material. Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a decorative feature as well and that they are documentable? Thank you, Hanna -- Message: 3 Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 19:55:26 +0100 From: Suzi Clarke s...@suziclarke.co.uk Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stitching on ruffs To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Message-ID: 7.0.1.0.2.20090409195249.03cb2...@suziclarke.co.uk Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed At 19:39 09/04/2009, you wrote: Hello, has anyone ever seen a ruff that really had the stitching along the outer edge to keep the 8s in shape? Period Costume for Stage and Screen even suggests embellishing the ruff with beads on top of these stitches, but I feel they are just a theatrical neccessity as the ruffs are not properly starched and must keep their shapes in nylon material. Or is there evidence that these stitches would have been used as a decorative feature as well and that they are documentable? I have seen pictures of ruffs where the 8s are apparently held together, probably with wax (see Janet Arnold). I am sure I also have a photo of a ruff held with red beads - I'll have to go and look for that though - my library is not next to the computer! Suzi -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Australia movie reviews [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Fran wrote:... Has anyone on this list seen Australia? The San Francisco Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together well. I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews? --- Germaine Greer wrote a scathing review (which you can probably find on line) criticising it for everything including its protrayal of both Aboriginals and drovers. The only thing she didn't comment on was the costumes, except for the implausibility of a drover wearing a tuxedo :-) Annette Wilson (in Australia) -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: rennaisance shirt question [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Connie wrote: We have made several shirts and keep running into the same problem. The neck consistantly pulls to the back. That leaves us constantly pulling the shirt to the front to keep from choking. I have noticed the same thing in the shirts I make for my husband - but ONLY when he wears the shirt on its own, without a doublet or jerkin, and especially if he does not tuck it in to his venetians or hose. These shirts were never made to be worn as an outer garment - when worn with the correct, fairly tight-fitting upper layers they do not slip backwards. If I wear my similarly-cut smock on its own (as a night-rail for example) it also shows this tendency, but when worn under other clothes it is very comfortable. However, if you need the shirt to be comfortable on its own, a fastening at the neck will help keep it in position, or increasing the depth of the front opening will help stop you choking :-) Annette Wilson --If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Hi Robin, here is my few cents worth: gloves shoes underclothing hose cotehardie :-) tailoring construction sewing/seam and hem treatments oil cloth felt cotton hemp canvas (tent materials etc) painting on textiles starch (if it was used before 1450) prevention of insect attack (moth damage to silk and wool, possibly also treatment of furs and bedding against fleas) domestic textiles (napery, bed hangings, bedsheets, blankets, curtains...) cushions storage (of clothing and domestic textiles) cleaning cloth armour (eg multi-layer linen jacks) the rag trade and paper production I'm sure I can think of more :-) Annette Wilson Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 08:11:30 -0600 From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 Cathy wrote, in response to my request earlier: Here's some that occur to me, focused as I am on the early part of the period you cite: peplos diamond twill lozenge twill broken lozenge twill use of beads in costume use of embroidery in costume veils warp-weighted loom horizontal loom linen linen production dyes madder nalbinding (the Coppergate sock could be an entry as well) This is exactly the sort of list I was hoping for! I think, though, from the responses that have been coming to me privately (and the absence of reply on the list) I wasn't clear enough in my first post. So I'll try again, more directly. I'm one of a team of editors working on a new, big, important project (yes, there's already a publisher committed) to create an encyclopedia of dress and textiles in Britain, 450-1450. Right now we're developing the master list of headwords that will define the entire arrangement of the encyclopedia. And we know we won't think of everything ourselves. So I'm asking those of you who work in medieval clothing -- the potential users of this reference book -- what you'd like to see in it. I need, specifically, terms that you might want to look up, like Cathy provided above. This might include anything from large overviews (headwear) to articles on specific terms or garments (wimple, hood); social and economic issues (sumptuary law, guilds); techniques (gore, couching); important sources and artifacts (Bayeux tapestry, Black Prince's surcote), or anything else related to dress and textiles or the study thereof -- as long as it's connected to the British Isles (including Ireland), 450-1450. And as long as we're making a wish list, if there's a particular living scholar you wish would be the author of an article -- the person you'd consider the world's expert on that topic -- tell me that too. We already have some of the field's top scholars involved, and we don't want to overlook anyone. Replies to me are OK, to the list is better (partly because it might promote brainstorming, but also because some people have reported some erratic bouncing of my mail!). A bribe: To anyone who gives me a helpful response, I will send a discount coupon for certain much-desired books in medieval dress and textile study from my publisher. Please do not forward this message to other lists. You may forward to specific individuals with interest in the topic if you send this entire message. Thanks again, Robin --If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: Things to do in DC [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
I will be in Washington DC with my husband for two and a half days in late July. The exhibitions so far described sound interesting, especially the one on Red at the Textile Museum and the Italian Renaissance and Baroque Women Painters I hope they will still be on, and I would also be grateful for advice on any really good fabric shops there, though if I remember right this was discussed not long ago and there wasn't much. Can any one also recommend (off-list since it isn't topical) a good, reasonably priced hotel which is fairly central to the Smithsonian musuems? I'm really looking forward to this - it will be the first time we have been to Washington except for a stopover at the airport (which doesn't count :-) Annette Wilson in wintery Canberra, Australia --If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] surviving linen [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Thanks Lena for providing the quote. Quoting Museum of London: Textiles and clothing, page 2: ...surviving textiles are biased by the types of deposit in which they are preserved. They occur most frequently where anaerobic conditions prevail, along the Thames waterfront, for example, and occasionally in cesspits. These acid conditions have the effect of causing cellulose fibres to break down very rapidly, particularly through fungal attack, and linen is, therefore, poorly represented. I think there is another reason why very little linen survives in any medieval context, and that is paper. Paper was made of rags. These days good quality rag paper is mostly cotton fibres, but in period linen was more common at least in northern Europe. People didn't need to throw away even the most worn pieces of linen, or offcuts, because it could all be recycled into paper (especially since it was usually not dyed). Soft worn linen was also sought for the making of those oft-quoted 30-layer jacks. On a side note, I have prepared a sample for one of these jacks, using a 10-year-old linen teatowel. The 32 layers, when quilted together, become a flexible, but impenetrable material which would provide good arrow portection. 32 layers of new linen is almost rigid, and very hard to sew. It would stop arrows, but it also stop you making a wearable garment :-) So the absence of thread in a seam may be due to linen thread having distintegrated, but the scarcity of linen in any deposits is, I think, because it was rarely dumped in the first place. Small or damaged pieces go to the paper mills, larger pieces can be used again, including in armour Annette Wilson If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: clothing for the reluctant husband - venetians [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
I find one of the major selling points for late sixteenth century venetians is pockets. Modern men always want to carry stuff in their pockets, ranging from car-keys to wallets and folding knives. Although the venetians (with a pocket set into the side) in Patterns of Fashion 1 are dated after 1600, I have no problem putting pockets in those based on pre-1600 portraits, and I have found it is more economical of fabric to cut venetians with side seams anyway. Annette Wilson ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
