Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Belated thanks for this recommendation. We do have a fair amount of drafting experience, so that would be OK. chimene On Dec 17, 2010, at 9:25 AM, Chris Bertani wrote: I recommend Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) You follow the directions to draft a pattern to the exact measurements you need. I've used this for a number of garments, and they generally come out looking very good. However, you will have to draft patterns for linings, facings, undercollars, etc. yourself. Regards, -- Chris Bertani www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Me, too. I already miss doing my annual order from GH. I got the Pellon brand hair canvas from Joann's online store. Even the superstores dont carry it. I'd prefer Arno's Acro fusible canvas, but J's doesnt carry it AFAICT. I'm also fond of Tailor's Pride, a very good sew-in one that's hard to find. Happy New Year, Katy! --cin On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 5:10 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: Cin, Where do you buy your hair cloth? I used to get it from greenberg and Hammer, I'm so sad they are gone. Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
You might want to check with B. Black Sons in L.A. for the Arno canvas. I am certain they have the sew-in but I'm not sure about the fusible type. They'll ship anywhere. LynnD On 12/29/10, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Me, too. I already miss doing my annual order from GH. I got the Pellon brand hair canvas from Joann's online store. Even the superstores dont carry it. I'd prefer Arno's Acro fusible canvas, but J's doesnt carry it AFAICT. I'm also fond of Tailor's Pride, a very good sew-in one that's hard to find. Happy New Year, Katy! --cin On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 5:10 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: Cin, Where do you buy your hair cloth? I used to get it from greenberg and Hammer, I'm so sad they are gone. Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Cin, Where do you buy your hair cloth? I used to get it from greenberg and Hammer, I'm so sad they are gone. Katy On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 7:15 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Rather than recommend patterns, let me encourage you to brush up your tailoring skills with Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring. It's a very small, inexpensive volume aimed at the home/craft seamstress. There are no historical techniques discussed particularly (as least not as far back as Edwardian). It will however, make the difference in how your jackets coats hang. The info in this book is applicable in both mens women's tailored costumes. It's applicable in theater, re-enactment everyday suiting. Most seamstresses just leave out the interfacing in tailored garments and the results can look tragic. You'll also need to order hair canvas, the secret ingredient for any tailored coat. Few shops carry it. I ordered just a bolt of it. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
It would seem that was an oversight. All of the women's patterns are TV, I guess she doesn't do men's. :) De -Original Message- Just fyi, the TV patterns listed on that link are Laughing Moon patterns. K. From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 7:37:51 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/menscat.html Truly Victorian I have heard the patterns are good. Limited on men's patterns. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
You can always wrap up the fabric and a print-out of the pattern picture, if you can't get the pattern itself in time. Ann Wass In a message dated 12/16/2010 10:39:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, otsi...@socket.net writes: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
I recommend Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) You follow the directions to draft a pattern to the exact measurements you need. I've used this for a number of garments, and they generally come out looking very good. However, you will have to draft patterns for linings, facings, undercollars, etc. yourself. Regards, -- Chris Bertani www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
First time posting so hope this is right! I'm actually doing just this for Christmas! I've had something planned for each family member all year, mostly to learn the period skills and build my portfolio. Since I'm broke and already giving them these, I've made them their Christmas presents! Except I had to put all my sewing stuff away so my mother could put out her Christmas dishes. Basically time has run out and I've nowhere to sew. My solution is that they're getting my costume renderings with fabric samples and everything packaged in a simple frame. That way I've got plenty of time to get them made! Michael Deibert OAS AAS LLS Sent from my iPhone On Dec 17, 2010 07:22:56 EST, annbw...@aol.com wrote: You can always wrap up the fabric and a print-out of the pattern picture, if you can't get the pattern itself in time. Ann Wass In a message dated 12/16/2010 10:39:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, otsi...@socket.net writes: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Lucky folks--something to look forward to! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: michaeljdeib...@gmail.com michaeljdeib...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Dec 17, 2010 3:33 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... First time posting so hope this is right! I'm actually doing just this for Christmas! I've had something planned for each amily member all year, mostly to learn the period skills and build my ortfolio. Since I'm broke and already giving them these, I've made them their hristmas presents! Except I had to put all my sewing stuff away so my mother ould put out her Christmas dishes. Basically time has run out and I've nowhere o sew. My solution is that they're getting my costume renderings with fabric samples nd everything packaged in a simple frame. That way I've got plenty of time to et them made! Michael Deibert AS AAS LLS ent from my iPhone On Dec 17, 2010 07:22:56 EST, annbw...@aol.com wrote: You can always wrap up the fabric and a print-out of the pattern picture, if you can't get the pattern itself in time. Ann Wass In a message dated 12/16/2010 10:39:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, otsi...@socket.net writes: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Rather than recommend patterns, let me encourage you to brush up your tailoring skills with Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring. It's a very small, inexpensive volume aimed at the home/craft seamstress. There are no historical techniques discussed particularly (as least not as far back as Edwardian). It will however, make the difference in how your jackets coats hang. The info in this book is applicable in both mens women's tailored costumes. It's applicable in theater, re-enactment everyday suiting. Most seamstresses just leave out the interfacing in tailored garments and the results can look tragic. You'll also need to order hair canvas, the secret ingredient for any tailored coat. Few shops carry it. I ordered just a bolt of it. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
I agree--I use what I call modern traditional tailoring when making period men's garments. I use hair canvas interfacing and pad stitching (I learned the basics in a women's tailoring class in the early 1970s, and have seen learned some specifics of men's tailoring techniques.) Early 19th century men's coats with M-notch lapels really need to be constructed by sewing the upper collar and undercollar together by hand, wrong sides together, with the seam allowances turned under. (A wool felt undercollar works even better, but 100% wool felt is also getting hard to find.) Sewing right sides together and turning just doesn't work well. Couldn't believe how hard it is getting to find hair canvas--Hancock used to carry it and I was shocked when I went to buy some several years ago and they didn't have it. Have to say, though, that I have used fusible hair canvas, too--I love it for interfacing vent openings, as I don't have to hand stitch those long seams. But I haven't had to buy any of it lately, either, so I don't know how easy it is to find anymore. Also a must for tailoring are a good steam iron and pressing tools--a point presser and ham, at a minimum. Ann Wass In a message dated 12/17/2010 7:16:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, cinbar...@gmail.com writes: Rather than recommend patterns, let me encourage you to brush up your tailoring skills with Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring. It's a very small, inexpensive volume aimed at the home/craft seamstress. There are no historical techniques discussed particularly (as least not as far back as Edwardian). It will however, make the difference in how your jackets coats hang. The info in this book is applicable in both mens women's tailored costumes. It's applicable in theater, re-enactment everyday suiting. Most seamstresses just leave out the interfacing in tailored garments and the results can look tragic. You'll also need to order hair canvas, the secret ingredient for any tailored coat. Few shops carry it. I ordered just a bolt of it. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Have you checked out the GBACG Great Pattern Review for those patterns? http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/index.html I own the Laughing Moon pattern based on other folks' reviews, but haven't made it up yet so no personal review. Don't know about the others. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org To: h-costume-indra.com Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 2:56:35 PM Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
I've hard fabulous stuff about the Laughing Moon patterns from a friend who made the frock coat for a very tall, thin man. It fit perfectly and went together easily. Unfortunately no personal experience. LynnD On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: Have you checked out the GBACG Great Pattern Review for those patterns? http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/index.html I own the Laughing Moon pattern based on other folks' reviews, but haven't made it up yet so no personal review. Don't know about the others. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org To: h-costume-indra.com Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 2:56:35 PM Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Laughing Moon patterns are great. Folkwear is OK--you may want to modify. I'd give Wingeo a pass. . . Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Patricia Dunham Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 4:57 PM To: h-costume-indra.com Costume Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Oddly enough, I just made a frock two weeks ago, from this Simplicity pattern: http://www.simplicity.com/p-1806-men-costumes.aspx The seams are all in the right places, which surprised and impressed me. It went together easily, but I used real interfacing, not the iron-on crap the instructions call for, and I pad-stitched the collar. It includes two vests and a shirt, which weren't needed, but they look pretty good, too. An additional advantage of this pattern is that it's locally available and often on sale. (JoAnn's was running a 5 for $5.00 promotion.) Good luck with your project, -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
I did a Victorian hat from a Wingeo pattern once and really didn't like the hat, I didn't think it came out like the drawing I agree Laughing Moon is okay, and Patterns of Time is good. Folkwear patterns are not really historical--they are for modern sensibilities. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:37:16 -0600 Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net writes: Laughing Moon patterns are great. Folkwear is OK--you may want to modify. I'd give Wingeo a pass. . . Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Patricia Dunham Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 4:57 PM To: h-costume-indra.com Costume Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
The Folkwear vest is a good basic vest pattern, easy to use with good instructions. Past Patterns also has some 19th c. vests and a nice man's shirt pattern which I've used. They also have trouser patterns. Katy On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 5:56 PM, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
http://trulyvictorian.com/catalog/menscat.html Truly Victorian I have heard the patterns are good. Limited on men's patterns. I just got their 1873 polonaise. De -Original Message- Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... snip I assume if you want steampunk you are not too worried about Total Authenticity. I've made the double-breasted vest in Folkwear #222 three times--two vests for myself and one for my husband, all from upholstery brocade (remnants) with satin linings. They went together very quickly and easily and they look great. In general I like Folkwear. I also like Past Patterns very much; they are at www.pastpatterns.com. Fran Lavolta Press Two new books of 1880s sewing patterns! www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
The Folkwear vest pattern is one of my standards. I've made it for women, men, young, old, small, large and, with a bit of futzing, sized up to xxx-large. The only caveat I have is that the wearer either needs to wear their pants higher than modern standard (easy if you're wearing Victorian period pants) or the vest may need to be cut a trifle longer. Melusine On 12/16/2010 2:56 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
