[h-cost] The Red Dutch coat Was: Dutch 1660s fur jacket

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
I like the furry one, but also love the red (wool?) one?  Reminds me, 
from the front, of Breughel type jackets, except with a placket.  Do you 
have a picture of it without the 'kerchief?  (also, if you could point 
me to a painting?)


Thanks,

Sg

Glad to see you back!
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Re: [h-cost] smell of spiral steel boning

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
I agree, I keep mine in a round tin.  It must have enough airflow  that 
I do not get this smell.  I have recently been amazed at what a good 
airing will do for costumes.  I have been working in a very smoky 
environment, and a few days airing has pretty much done the trick...more 
tenacious smells seem to be rid easily of with some febreeze.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Belive it or not, metal has a smell.
Providing your supplier has not done something you are not aware of, this is 
normal.


Give it a rub with a soft cloth then let it air,


-C.

 



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Re: [h-cost] Another Pregnant Elizabethan

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau

Very nice!  Thank you.  I'd never seen that one!
Susan B. Farmer wrote:


Found another one

http://www.weissgallery.com/detail.asp?id=26category=current

 



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Re: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
I'd stay away from anything modern for any period corset.  You just 
won't get the shape you want.  As a starting place, look at Drea's well 
used corset generator.
http://costume.dm.net/custompat/If you are new to this style, look 
carefully at the shapes in paintings for comparisons to later styles.  
Think inverted cone.  Flat front, not a curve in sight!  Compare this 
to (some of)  the more rounded front of the German silhouette at the 
same time.  If you have Patterns Of Fashion, look at the Pfalzgrafin 
corset for comparison.  Her corset was not boned across the breasts.  
Makes a huge difference!


In the end a sloper also called a toile is exactly what you need, just 
a different starting point!  In the case of a corset toile, you need 
something a little heavier than calico/muslin to work with.


Sg

rwfranz wrote:

A sloper is the basic pattern from which other patterns are designed. 
(http://www.sew-whats-new.com/sewinglessons/sloper.shtml) It's also 
sometimes called the basic body block.


A



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[h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread wendirae
Hello!
I am not really familiar with the Regency era; however I really liked the dress 
that Jayne (Rosamund Pike) wore in the opening scene of the latest version of 
Pride  Prejudice (with Keira Knightly) – she wears the same style dress a 
different points throughout the movie, one in pink and the other in blue. I 
have looked at the patterns sites that carry Regency patterns (Sense  
Sensibility, etc.) but have been unable to locate anything like this. There is 
a dress with an overcoat (?) that has an under-the-bust piece to connect either 
side of the overcoat. While I have not seen the movie Sense  Sensibility with 
Kate Winslet as Marianne Dashwood, I have seen screen shots and she is wearing 
a similar style outfit, a peach  white gown on a picnic.
http://www.geocities.com/mm_regency1/ss_mpwd.html

Does anyone know what the overcoat is called and what type of dress the base 
dress is? 

Thanks!
Wendi


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Re: [h-cost] Sourcing bizarre fabric..

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
Katherine, have you tried any of the fabric finder, or fabric sourcing 
sites?  I have had particular luck with this group 
http://www.fabrics.net/swatch/ , but also just happened to google on 
this site-I hadn't asked for green leaves, but look what came up!


http://www.prqc.com/fabric_finder.htm
Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 16:05 27/03/2006, you wrote:

Hello!
I am not really familiar with the Regency era; 
however I really liked the dress that Jayne 
(Rosamund Pike) wore in the opening scene of the 
latest version of Pride  Prejudice (with Keira 
Knightly) ­ she wears the same style dress a 
different points throughout the movie, one in 
pink and the other in blue. I have looked at the 
patterns sites that carry Regency patterns 
(Sense  Sensibility, etc.) but have been unable 
to locate anything like this. There is a dress 
with an overcoat (?) that has an under-the-bust 
piece to connect either side of the overcoat. 
While I have not seen the movie Sense  
Sensibility with Kate Winslet as Marianne 
Dashwood, I have seen screen shots and she is 
wearing a similar style outfit, a peach  white gown on a picnic.

http://www.geocities.com/mm_regency1/ss_mpwd.html

Does anyone know what the overcoat is called and 
what type of dress the base dress is?



Patterns for the overcoat can be found in both 
Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh, and 
Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold. 
It is probable that you will find patterns for 
the dress in one of those books too, or Period 
Costume for Stage and Screen 1800-1090 by Jean 
Hunnisett, as these were the principal books of 
patterns that the British costume houses used at 
the time this version was being made. The sheer 
dress is possibly being worn over a bodiced petticoat.


I have not seen the new P and P so cannot comment on that particular style.

Suzi 




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Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan doublets, hooks and eyes at waist

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
Wish I could remember where I read this, but there was a discourse by 
someone (Samuel Pepy's perhaps?) on how, the tailors were in some kind 
of conspiracy (tongue in cheek) of switching from points to hook and 
eyes which didn't free men up from having to have some one dress them.


Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Suzi,
The pattern for this gown is in Norah Waughs Cut of Womens Clothes diagram 
XXXIV Open Gown c. 1795.
I made it many years ago from a mix of silk and wool in a petrol blue 
trimmed with grey ribbons. Inside the gown i had made a chemise de la 
reinne, or you could also use a petticoat and a large fichu.


Bjarne
- Original Message - 
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!



At 16:05 27/03/2006, you wrote:

Hello!
I am not really familiar with the Regency era; however I really liked the 
dress that Jayne (Rosamund Pike) wore in the opening scene of the latest 
version of Pride  Prejudice (with Keira Knightly) ­ she wears the same 
style dress a different points throughout the movie, one in pink and the 
other in blue. I have looked at the patterns sites that carry Regency 
patterns (Sense  Sensibility, etc.) but have been unable to locate 
anything like this. There is a dress with an overcoat (?) that has an 
under-the-bust piece to connect either side of the overcoat. While I have 
not seen the movie Sense  Sensibility with Kate Winslet as Marianne 
Dashwood, I have seen screen shots and she is wearing a similar style 
outfit, a peach  white gown on a picnic.

http://www.geocities.com/mm_regency1/ss_mpwd.html

Does anyone know what the overcoat is called and what type of dress the 
base dress is?



Patterns for the overcoat can be found in both Cut of Women's Clothes 
by Norah Waugh, and Patterns of Fashion 1660-1860 by Janet Arnold. It is 
probable that you will find patterns for the dress in one of those books 
too, or Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1800-1090 by Jean Hunnisett, 
as these were the principal books of patterns that the British costume 
houses used at the time this version was being made. The sheer dress is 
possibly being worn over a bodiced petticoat.


I have not seen the new P and P so cannot comment on that particular 
style.


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread Hope Greenberg

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am not really familiar with the Regency era; however I really liked the dress that Jayne 
(Rosamund Pike) wore in the opening scene of the latest version of Pride  Prejudice (with 
Keira Knightly) – she wears the same style dress a different points throughout the movie, one 
in pink and the other in blue. I have looked at the patterns sites that carry Regency patterns 
(Sense  Sensibility, etc.) but have been unable to locate anything like this. There is a 
dress with an overcoat (?) that has an under-the-bust piece to connect either side of the 
overcoat. While I have not seen the movie Sense  Sensibility with Kate Winslet as Marianne 
Dashwood, I have seen screen shots and she is wearing a similar style outfit, a peach  
white gown on a picnic.
http://www.geocities.com/mm_regency1/ss_mpwd.html

Does anyone know what the overcoat is called and what type of dress the base dress is? 



Isn't this a marvelous style? The Sense and Sensibility versions are a 
bit toned down in fullness, but it was still nice that they included 
this style. I've seen it most often called a robe or open robe. It's a 
brief transition style from the late 18th century robe a l'anglaise 
where the lower part of the bodice is cut away. This gown, from the 
Victoria and Albert Museum, shows the transition. You can see the 
evolution: start with the earlier 18th waistline, then move the waist up 
and make the gown even more open at front, continue until waistline is 
very high, replace rich silk petticoat with full muslin 
underdress/chemise dress, and voila!

http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1088-005.jpg

Here are several variations, all from the late 1790s:

Gold Stripe silk robe from Met Museum of Art (image: Columbia)
http://www.columbia.edu/itc/barnard/theater/kirkland/3136/Early_19th_Century_Gallery/pages/1795.5.htm
and another view:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dreh/ho_C.I.37.46.1.htm

Open robe, brown silk, Manchester City Gallery
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/catalogue/Display.php?irn=13418QueryPage=/costume/catalogue/index.php

Silk dress (rear view) Los Angeles City Museum
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=recordid=21549type=101

and an Italian version in glazed linen, also from LACMA:
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=recordid=40930type=101

First image at:
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page3.html

Long sleeved day dress version:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1087-012.jpg

And another from MMOA:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_1998.222.1.htm

And this, worn as a wedding dress in the U.S., shows the pleating in the 
back:

http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=trueid=49614coll_keywords=wedding%20dresscoll_package=0coll_start=1

And a couple of fashion plates (two of them may be redrawings)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1790s-gown-gloves.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1795-threegowns-columbia.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1797-muslin-glove.jpg

Janet Arnold shows a similar gown in her Patterns of Fashion from this 
period.



- Hope
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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 3/27/2006 11:06:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Here are  several variations, all from the late 1790s:




 
Which makes me wonder if it was considered woefully old fashion  
by...oh...say 1806.
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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread AnnBWass
 
In a message dated 3/27/2006 10:44:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  pattern for this gown is in Norah Waughs Cut of Womens Clothes diagram  
XXXIV Open Gown c. 1795.



Yes, and please note that, strictly speaking, this is not Regency  period. We 
already discussed on this list that, as Jane Austen first wrote  the book in 
the 1790s (although it was published later), evidently the designer  opted to 
costume it in this period.  While technically, the English Regency  was 
1811-1820, I think most of us who interpret this period think of the styles  
being 
fairly similar from about 1800 on.  The 1790s was more a transition  period 
from 18th century to the full-blown Neo-classical styes.
 
Ann Wass
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[h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hey,
What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
I dont like it, its two bizarre.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Kristin
I've seen that before when looking up information on corsets.  It's
definitely along the lines of fetish.  I have to agree with you that it is
too bizarre.  I don't like it either, as it's too out of proportion.

Kristin


On 3/27/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey,
 What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
 http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
 I dont like it, its two bizarre.

 Bjarne





 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk

 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
I concurr, way too bizarre. I looked into corseting but found rather
quickly that there are no groups out there for those just wanting to
know how to do it properly without all the fetish and what not
connected to it. I just wanted the facts and got yelled at when I
opposed one view. Way too strange for my tastes.

Chiara


On Mon, March 27, 2006 12:45 pm, Kristin said:
 I've seen that before when looking up information on corsets.  It's
 definitely along the lines of fetish.  I have to agree with you that
 it is
 too bizarre.  I don't like it either, as it's too out of proportion.

 Kristin


 On 3/27/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey,
 What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
 http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
 I dont like it, its two bizarre.

 Bjarne





 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk

 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Franchesca Havas


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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread E House
- Original Message - 
From: Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio [EMAIL PROTECTED]



I concurr, way too bizarre. I looked into corseting but found rather
quickly that there are no groups out there for those just wanting to
know how to do it properly without all the fetish and what not
connected to it. 


Yes, there is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/
I'm the list owner, and there's no fetish stuff allowed!

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread WickedFrau
Dang!  How'd I miss this?!  I'll be signing up.   I can only imagine 
what you all a have been talking about since 1991! 
Sg


E House wrote:



Yes, there is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/
I'm the list owner, and there's no fetish stuff allowed!

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Very cool!

I will check it out when I get home tonight. :)

Chiara

On Mon, March 27, 2006 1:04 pm, E House said:
 - Original Message -
 From: Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I concurr, way too bizarre. I looked into corseting but found
 rather
 quickly that there are no groups out there for those just wanting
 to
 know how to do it properly without all the fetish and what not
 connected to it.

 Yes, there is:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/
 I'm the list owner, and there's no fetish stuff allowed!

 -E House
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



Franchesca Havas


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RE: [h-cost] The Red Dutch coat Was: Dutch 1660s fur jacket

2006-03-27 Thread Nicole Kipar
Uhm, SG, that isn't a coat nor jacket, is the reproduction (made by Harriet 
Waterhouse) of the 1660s pink silk stays with sleeves in the VA. :-D


Nicole (steeped in Tudor and kind of lost)


If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.





From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] The Red Dutch coat Was: Dutch 1660s fur jacket
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 07:19:53 -0700

I like the furry one, but also love the red (wool?) one?  Reminds me, from 
the front, of Breughel type jackets, except with a placket.  Do you have a 
picture of it without the 'kerchief?  (also, if you could point me to a 
painting?)


Thanks,

Sg

Glad to see you back!
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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Katy Bishop
I saw her in person at a dance once, it was grotesque.   Like a train
wreck, you looked but had to turn away but had to look again to make
sure you didn't imagine it.  She looked as if she would break in two. 
Her face did not look like one of a happy or healthy person.

Katy

On 3/27/06, Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hey,
 What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
 http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
 I dont like it, its two bizarre.

 Bjarne





 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk

 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

 ___
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 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Re: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion

2006-03-27 Thread Suzi Clarke


I'd stay away from anything modern for any period corset.  You just 
won't get the shape you want.  As a starting place, look at Drea's 
well used corset generator.

http://costume.dm.net/custompat/


If you are new to this style, look carefully at the shapes in 
paintings for comparisons to later styles.
Think inverted cone.  Flat front, not a curve in sight!  Compare 
this to (some of)  the more rounded front of the German silhouette 
at the same time.  If you have Patterns Of Fashion, look at the 
Pfalzgrafin corset for comparison.  Her corset was not boned across 
the breasts.

Makes a huge difference!

In the end a sloper also called a toile is exactly what you need, 
just a different starting point!  In the case of a corset toile, you 
need something a little heavier than calico/muslin to work with.


Sg

rwfranz wrote:

A sloper is the basic pattern from which other patterns are 
designed. (http://www.sew-whats-new.com/sewinglessons/sloper.shtml) 
It's also sometimes called the basic body block.



I must say I tried Drea's corset generator on myself, being an 
English 24, American 26, and I could not get it to look anything like 
a corset. And I make corsets for my living! Perhaps you will have 
more luck - I hope so.


Suzi 



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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread AnnBWass
 
In a message dated 3/27/2006 4:12:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

and an  Italian version in glazed linen


I believe that is INDIAN fabric, made up in England.
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Dawn

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Hey,
What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
I dont like it, its two bizarre.



I don't think I'm getting the same link as everyone else. I'm looking at 
 Danish (?) news clips... news, sports, movie reviews, baby kangaroos 
at the zoo...




Dawn


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[h-cost] OT: other costuming groups

2006-03-27 Thread E House
Well, since we've had a ton of new members on the historical corsets group from 
this list in just the past few hours, I thought I'd quickly mention three of my 
other groups that might be of interest to the list:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The_Real_Regency/
Regency fashions, lifestyle, reenactment get-togethers--reasonably active

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/15thCenturyEurope/
Anything whatsoever related to the 15th century--needs new life

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PreRaphaeliteGarb/
For when you need a break from authenticity--needs new life

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Janet,
Thanks for that, its very interresting that she calls this a greatcoat, 
wished i could ask her why?


Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: JAMES OGILVIE [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Help!


and an Italian version in glazed linen, also from LACMA:
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=recordid=40930type=101

Regarding our discussion a couple weeks ago about a greatcoat dress, the 
museum curators have labeled this one a greatcoat dress.


Janet
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[h-cost] re: talk about tight lacing - historic corset info

2006-03-27 Thread katherine sanders
Hello Chiara

I looked into corseting but found rather quickly
that there are no groups out there for those just
wanting to know how to do it properly without all
the fetish and what not
connected to it. Chiara

may I suggest you check out the yahoo 'historic
corset' group? There are a few familiar 'faces' from
this and other lists and it is specifically aimed at
those of us only interested in the historic side of
things. I know /exactly/ what you mean about other
groups...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Historical_Corsets/?yguid=176556519

HTH

Katherine (who's guilty of not posting to the list
often enough... maybe tomorrow!)

A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort - Herm Albright



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[h-cost] new McCall's bonnet pattern

2006-03-27 Thread Elizabeth Walpole
while I was looking for high waisted bodices with darts, (as I'm running a 
class on removing the darts from commercial patterns for early 16th century 
Italian clothing) I found this new pattern 
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5129.htm?tab=costumespage=1 for couple 
of variations on the theme of mid 19th century bonnets. To me it looks like 
the top row styles with the full brim could work well for late 1840s to 
early 1850s but their cut away style looks all wrong, I think it's because 
it's just too big, as when they trimmed the brim back so it didn't act like 
blinkers on a horse the bonnet became much smaller and closer to the face, 
but instead of modifying the overall line of the bonnet McCall's has tried 
to make one pattern do double duty. Does anybody else have opinions on 
weather this could be adapted to a mid to late 1850s bonnet? As nobody seems 
to sell that style (even if I could afford a readymade bonnet) all I see on 
the web is 1860s spoon bonnets for the ACW crowd.
Elizabeth (who should be concentrating on SCA period clothing for an 
upcoming event over the Easter weekend rather than looking at 19th century 
stuff)


Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Dianne Greg Stucki



- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 1:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing



Hey,
What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
I dont like it, its two bizarre.

Bjarne


Just..umm..

e

Dianne
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RE: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Anne Moeller
I agree,  this is gross.  I don't like to comment on other people's figure
failings either but something this bizarre invites comment.  I am sure she
must be used to stares and questions. The press did do a piece on her, after
all.

Anne


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RE: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Also looks too painful!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 10:32 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing


Hey,
What do you say, a 15 inch waist:
http://www.aftonbladet.se/atv/player.html?catID=10clipID=7149
I dont like it, its two bizarre.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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RE: [h-cost] OT: other costuming groups

2006-03-27 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Thank you!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 1:49 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] OT: other costuming groups


Well, since we've had a ton of new members on the historical corsets group
from this list in just the past few hours, I thought I'd quickly mention
three of my other groups that might be of interest to the list:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The_Real_Regency/
Regency fashions, lifestyle, reenactment get-togethers--reasonably active

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/15thCenturyEurope/
Anything whatsoever related to the 15th century--needs new life

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PreRaphaeliteGarb/
For when you need a break from authenticity--needs new life

-E House
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Re: [h-cost] Corset cutting suggestion

2006-03-27 Thread AlbertCat

I'm  getting tired of the number of times I've needed to alter the corset  
pattern I'm currently working on (the 1844 corset in Corsets and  
Crinolines, the bust is way too big  I'm on my third round of  alterations 
to reduce it)
 

 
Lookyou probably just need to step back a littledo something else  
for a bit... then come back to it. It's not that difficult. Just get the bust,  
waist, hips measurements right [use a bust front, from side to side across the 
 front, and an across back at bust level to adjust that area] and go from  
there. Try to keep the pattern pieces the same shape as the pattern. [you'll  
find with the corset you're working on the  bust gussets get much  smaller and 
the curve of the piece they set into gets shallower]
 
Here's a project for you! Buy a pattern from Past Patterns...their  1845-1860 
Corset...# 708 and make it up in your size. Just follow the  instructions. 
It's very close in many ways to the corset you're working on. It's  my favorite 
19th century corset! A beautiful shape. The original is lightly  boned, but I 
put a bone between every bone in the pattern. You'll love it!
 
Then, with that experience under your belt, you can go back and tackle the  
other corset.

 
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[h-cost] dye surprises

2006-03-27 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
I am in the middle of dying silk chenille threads for the tangled garden 
jacket. I made all the reds yesterday, and they came out nice.

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/jacket.html
Today i just dyed the greens. I could only find 3 greens, spring green, 
emerald green and olive green. So i mixed the collours a little. As i wanted 
to get a little warmer green, i added a little red, and to my surprise the 
silk chenille got very dark red! Even that i only added little red.

Strange things happens.
Anyway i made 16 bunches of lovely greens, but i cant fotograph them before 
they are dry.


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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RE: [h-cost] Regency Help!

2006-03-27 Thread Abel, Cynthia
 
An excellent source for the early 1790's fashions is Heideloff's
Gallery of Fashion published circa 1793-1802. From 1793-1800 is
available on microfilm as part of the History of Women Card Catalog.
Many universities hold this.  There are some websites that have some of
the plates, some in the original color.  Yummy!  A few plates from the
first year were reproduced in Sitwell's Gallery of Fashion which was a
brief history of the journal and included some info and reproductions
from its successor and more famous Ackermann's Repository  Jane Austen
may have seen some of the plates. Very few survive as it was published
in possibly fewer than 1,000 per monthly issue. Each issue was
small--usually two plates per issue with detailed(for the
time)descriptions of the fashion or fashions in each plate. Apparently
subscribers shared the plates with friends who couldn't afford the steep
subsciption price. The plates were hand-colored with metals, jewelry,
etc, picked out in real gold and silver paint.

It was published in London. Would love to see Dover Books republish some
or all of the plates and have recommended this at the Dover website as
Austenites would find it of use, as well as a great source ofreally
existing fashions(as the original publication claimed)of the 1790's
which is greatly ignored by costume historians. It is an excellent
chronicle of a transitional time in fashion during revolutionary times
and deserves more study, I think.

Cindy Abel
 

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Re: [h-cost] talk about tight lacing

2006-03-27 Thread Debloughcostumes
youch!!

prolapses here they come.

ick - have a book that shows all the yucky stuff that can happen as a result 
of too tight lacing, and it's truly disgusting.

debs
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[h-cost] Spanish California Women's Costume

2006-03-27 Thread Rachel Watcher
I am interested in finding information on Women's fashion from 1840 to 1850
Ranchero life prior to the  Gold Rush in 49.  Particularly the dress that
would be worn for fandangos for married women.

Anyone got info or urls?

Thanks
Rachael
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