KR> Help for KR Building

[laser147 at juno.com]

> "And don't be led astray by pictures of KRs or anything else. Those
pretty
girls in TV soap ads are barely real."

Oh yeah . . . they're real.  You just need to be a little younger for
them to smile at you with anything other than pity.

As for planes, the KR is almost always passable (except for that one with
the tiger teeth markings that showed up from Ft. Smith, AR).  That was a
truly ugly one, (but with character) and at least it was a taildragger.  

Here's a couple pictures of mine (Ken Cottle, builder, not me) I uploaded
to my photo host.  I need to add some more photos to the site - will do
so with time.

https://goo.gl/0snwAH
Mark Jones, I'm sad to see you and your many years of "Yaa Hoo's!" pass
on into the sunset, if that's what you're doing.  Maybe you just came
into some money and are buying that new Cirrus Jet (or better yet, an
Eclipse 550 - much more plane for the money.  It's a little baby
Learjet.).  I sure would (the Eclipse 550, not the Vision Jet) if I had
the money.  Anyway  . . . you've contributed at least two KR's that I
know of to the world KR population so I congratulate you for all you've
brought to our world and wish you the very best with whatever you are up
to.  

Mike Stirewalt
KSEE



Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times
Smart Trends
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/582ab254a344232535e08st01vuc

KR> HELP FOR KR BUILDING

[Pete Klapp]

Bill
The KR2 that you saw was probably the Porkopolis Pig and your description is 
pretty accurate.
Pete Klapp

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


ol' weirdo via KRnet  wrote:

I have been thinking about Phil Hill's unsuccessful search for help for his
KR project and a few points come to mind.


Cal Parker in his plans and instruction booklet tells those who would build
a Teenie to go out to the airport and look at airplanes. Go into the shops
where airplanes are apart. Look at everything because every designer has
the same fundamental problems. Besides Cessna and Piper look at the
Citations and Lears too.

Look at other stuff like boats and race cars. Their problems are not unlike
airplane problems.


A couple stories. It's a few years ago when crossing the border wasn't the
hassle it is now, Peter, who is building a KR, and I flew to Toledo to what
was billed as a KR flyin.

As it worked out, there was one KR and to sum up, it was no thing of
beauty. KR builders have a sanding song. This plane looked as though the
builder had laid the fiberglass on the foam and patted it on with the heal
of his hand. But he got into the plane and flew away.


I listened to Chris Heintz of Zenith tell about standing with some members
of the French equivalent to Transport Canada or whoever and one them said,
"Look at this." One could see just by looking at it that the plane was
crooked. And the owner got in and flew away.


So don't be frightened. Remember, it's only an airplane. As they say, "it's
not a piano."


And don't be led astray by pictures of KRs or anything else. Those pretty
girls in TV soap ads are barely real. They probably use pictures of
different girls to make the ad, a face from one, an arm from another, and
so on.. So when one looks at a picture of part of a KR or other, one is
seeing only that part. The part you see might be beautiful but for the
rest, it might be a good thing to keep it hidden.


Finally, there is the "three times rule" Don't be ashamed to make something
three times, once to sort out how to make it, once to make it right, and
once to make it to the standard you want to maintain. No one ever admits
that. And even though spruce has become expensive, working with it is more
productive than nearly anything else you might do which means it isn?t
expensive after all.

Bill Weir
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KR> Building a KR

[n357cj]

Jeff,
What happened to the time lapse video of you building your KR over the 10 years 
or so?? i loved that and it brought a tear to my eyes. I think that it would be 
appropriate to re-post it for the masses.
Thanks
Joe Horton

- Original Message -
From: "Jeff Scott via KRnet" 
To: "Mark Langford via KRnet" 
Cc: "jscott planes" 
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 11:09:54 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Great plains

So, the question is, who owns Great Plains now, and where are they located?

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KR> I got the fever, I got the plans and I got the wood >Kr building question

[Paul VISK]

Beside what Mark said. ? ? One of my most used tools is this 
air-angle-die-grinder/?rotary sander.Make sure you add three drops of 3an1 type 
oil everyday you use it.
http://m.harborfreight.com/air-angle-die-grinder-32046.html
Here's the link for the sanding discs.
http://www.empireabrasives.com/2-inch-quick-change-roloc-sanding-disc-a-o-25-pack/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAisy1BRD7_YSgpduD2cEBEiQAPR3UuEOVfn9j-ePYpmLkKfGMs0h6uDBKK6ohEfrfiqeHcJEaAtR88P8HAQ
Paul ViskBelleville Il618-406-4705



Stan wrote:

> What tools aside from those listed here ie how many and what type of clamps 
> do you recommend for the glue up?

KR> I got the fever, I got the plans and I got the wood >Kr building question

[Mike Sylvester]

An absolute must have for me was a good wet / dry vac. I'm a bit of a clean 
freak and believe me, there will be a lot of saw dust, foam dust and fiberglass 
dust. 

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854


> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 05:24:29 -0700
> Subject: Re: KR> I got the fever, I got the plans and I got the wood >Kr 
> building question
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: ml at n56ml.com
> 
> Stan wrote:
> 
> > What tools aside from those listed here ie how many and what type of clamps 
> > do you recommend for the glue up?
> 
> 
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> I got the fever, I got the plans and I got the wood >Kr building question

[Adam]

I have 30-6" clamps, 20-12" clamps,
2-4' clamps, 2-6' clamps and 2 pole clamps. 
I recommend an electric DA 5" sander, and 
4 chisels 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1"
And I have a 6" and 12" hand planer. 
I used nails and close pins to set the gussets. 


Adam Tippin
A KR2S builder

> On Feb 3, 2016, at 5:38 PM, Global Solutions via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> What tools aside from those listed here ie how many and what type of clamps 
> do you recommend for the glue up.
> How many squares (to clamp to) should I make and of what size?
> 
> Thanks
> Stan
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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KR> I got the fever, I got the plans and I got the wood >Kr building question

[Global Solutions]

I got the fever after going for a flight in Chris Gardner's bird last fall.
I got the plans a few moths back and have the corvair build manual and a 
110 hp engine
I got the wood and plywood
I built a sold bench
I have a miter saw, radial arm, table saw level,square and an digital 
inclinometer  as well as lots of light and an air compressor.
I also acquired the resin and carbon fiber.

What tools aside from those listed here ie how many and what type of 
clamps do you recommend for the glue up.
How many squares (to clamp to) should I make and of what size?

Thanks
Stan

KR> Building sequence

[kdoub at aol.com]

Hi Lee,

I've always thought that, perhaps, more KRs would get completed if the wings 
were built first.  It seems that a lot of people get hung up after building the 
fuselage because:

1) some are afraid of the fiberglassing part
2) some spend too much time sitting in the fuselage making airplane noises.

The problem with building wings first is that the wings are built on the 
fuselage (Per the plans).  The center spars are glued into the fuselage, then 
the outer spars are connected to the center spars, and then the foaming and 
glassing begins.

However, I did actually build my wings away from the fuselage.  I built a jig 
to clamp the center spars as if they were in the fuselage, and then built the 
(outer) wings.   Besides space saving, I was also able to put the wings into 4 
different positions very easily (Vertical Up, Vertical Down, Right Side Up, and 
Upside down.)  Those positions were very helpful during construction. I was 
actually able to build my seat and landing gear brackets (temporarily 
installed) in that jig also.  
I did have to build the wing stubs on the fuselage, however, because the wing 
stubs are part of the center spars, which are glued to the fuselage.  I posted 
info on how I did that in the KR newsletter back in the mid 90s.

Even though I never finished my project, I would do it the same way again if I 
were to build one again.  I really think it has a lot of big advantages.  

Unfortunately, mine has been in my hanger half done for 15 years with no 
action.  So, my credibility is much less than those that have completed a KR.

I made the mistake of building a different plane and have spent all of my spare 
time flying and maintaining it instead ever since.  (Kind of goes along with 
what others have said recently about flying while building.)

Best Regards,

Kerwyn 

KR> Building sequence

[danrh at windstream.net]

Yes, fuselage first.  This is because the entire KR is built upon itself.  Each 
step sort of forms the "JIG" for the next step.


If I were building again, what I would not do is build out the wing stubs, 
until I finished the fuselage, to eliminate having to lean over the wing stub 
for everything I was doing inside the fuselage.


Happy building and see you in McMinnville.



On Thursday, June 18, 2015 10:31 AM, R. Lee Jarvis via KRnet  wrote: 

=
It seems like most (all?) KR builders are beginning with the fuselage. Does the 
construction have to begin with the fuselage, or can you build wings & 
empennage 
first? Workshop space is limited, and it's easier to store flat pieces out of 
the way than it is to work around an assembled fuselage. 
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KR> Building sequence

[R. Lee Jarvis]

It seems like most (all?) KR builders are beginning with the fuselage. Does the 
construction have to begin with the fuselage, or can you build wings & 
empennage first? Workshop space is limited, and it's easier to store flat 
pieces out of the way than it is to work around an assembled fuselage.

KR> Building

[smwood]

I hear you Ray.  I shall be flying this Spring.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
> > Still working on my project and seeing how/what I can do to make it 
> > happen - before I die of old age...
> Ray
> New Orleans
> 504-616-9098
>
>
> --

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Tony King]

On 7 February 2014 00:31, Dj Merrill  wrote:

> The prop rule is interesting, too.  LSA specs say you can have a ground
> adjustable prop, but not one that can be adjusted in the air.  Can you
> put an electrically adjustable prop on an LSA aircraft and placard the
> panel switch "Adjust prop pitch only on ground"?  :-)
>
>
In Oz recently a bunch of LSAs with in flight adjustable props were
grounded because the LSA rules didn't allow for an in-flight adjustable
prop.  Turns out the reason was because the LSAs were manufacturer
certified against the ASTM standards (LSA manufacturers can decide which
standards they self certify to - most choose ASTM), and there was no ASTM
standard for in flight adjustable props.  Therefore fitting such a prop was
inconsistent with the standards against which the aircraft was
certified and that in turn invalidated the aircraft's Special Certificate
of Airworthiness.

Rather than take this lying down (and retro-fit fixed or ground adjustable
props) one of the LSA importers decided to approach ASTM to develop a
standard for in flight adjustable props.  A number of manufacturers backed
him up and that standard was ratified at Oshkosh last year.  So now
inflight adjustable props can be used on LSAs, so long as the manufacturer
says it's OK (just like any other change to a factory built LSA).  At least
that's the situation in Oz.

Cheers,

Tony

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Dj Merrill]

On 02/06/2014 09:16 AM, Jeff Scott wrote:
> When the son flies it (commercial PL with lots of ratings), he can fly it at 
> whatever speed and altitude the plane is capable of doing.  When the father 
> (Sport Pilot) flies it, he is required to comply with the placard on the 
> panel that states something to the effect of limiting the engine RPM to 2700 
> after 5 minutes to comply with Light Sport Pilot rules.


A nitpick perhaps, but the son cannot LEGALLY fly it at whatever speed
and altitude the plane is capable of if that means not complying with
the placards.  As you stated, in the FAAs eyes, if it is placarded on
the panel, it will be flown according to the placards.

I'm not sure anyone has done this yet, but it would be interesting to
know if a placard would be acceptable if labeled something like "If you
are a Sport Pilot, do not exceed 138 mph, otherwise have fun!"  :-)

The prop rule is interesting, too.  LSA specs say you can have a ground
adjustable prop, but not one that can be adjusted in the air.  Can you
put an electrically adjustable prop on an LSA aircraft and placard the
panel switch "Adjust prop pitch only on ground"?  :-)


-Dj


-- 
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Jeff Scott]

Actually Mike, you are pretty much right about promising not to fly the plane 
too fast. ?My hangar mates (father/son) built a Sonex with the 6 cyl Jabiru 
engine. ?When the son flies it (commercial PL with lots of ratings), he can fly 
it at whatever speed and altitude the plane is capable of doing. ?When the 
father (Sport Pilot) flies it, he is required to comply with the placard on the 
panel that states something to the effect of limiting the engine RPM to 2700 
after 5 minutes to comply with Light Sport Pilot rules. ?Like many things in 
aviation, we are trusted to police ourselves. ?Some People do abuse the 
privilege of policing themselves, but in the FAAs eyes, if it is placarded on 
the panel, it will be flown according to the placards.

You can buy a used Sonex and if it will fly within the bounds of LSA, you can 
placard the panel and fly it as such. ?Your challenge with a KR is to get he 
stall speed low enough to make it fit within the Light Sport regulations.

BTW, a Sonex isn't a bad choice for a LSA compliant plane. ?My hangar mate's 
Sonex will certainly outclimb my KR and get in and out shorter, but can't 
cruise with the KR. ?While I'm not impressed with the wind up spring trim for 
the elevator, the pitch and roll control is more harmonious than my KR, and it 
has HUGE flaps for landing. ?Overall, a pretty nice flying plane.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


> - Original Message -
> From: Mike T
> Sent: 02/05/14 10:40 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?
> 
> I've seen these regs before and they're a little vague. For example, all
> the Sonex designs are listed as LSA compatible
> http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/elsa.html but I think most of them fly
> faster than 138 mph (and Sonex sells the Jabiru and other big engines so
> they can go faster). So Sonex's ads and the EAA make people believe a
> Sonex is OK for sport pilots, but a lot of the ones on the market will be
> too fast.
> 
> So if someone buys a used Sonex or other amateur built plane that's on the
> usual LSA list and it turns out to be faster than it should be, is he just
> supposed to promise not to go faster than he should in it? Or is he out of
> luck because the builder listed the top speed as faster (or does a builder
> have to give the top speed to license an experimental? He may not even
> know yet).
--- some of the post deleted--
> Mike Taglieri

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Dan Heath]

Your main challenge on a KR is stall speed. If you don't build it very light, I 
do not think you will be able to meet this requirement. Remember this is 
"clean" stall, no flaps. 

Dan Heath

> On Jan 31, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Dj Merrill  wrote:
> 
>> On 01/31/2014 02:21 AM, Mike T wrote:
>> These two designs aren't as far
>> apart as they seem, because a KR-2 can also be LSA compliant.  It already
>> makes the LSA stall speed if you keep it light, and I could use a smaller
>> VW engine (or just adjust the throttle so the carb doesn't open all the
>> way) to get it down to the LSA top speed someday.  I think the LSA law
>> would le me fly the plane fast for now, then slow it down to make it LSA
>> compliant if I ever get sick of getting medicals.
> 
> 
> Just a clarification, but the LSA rules will not let you fly it fast now
> and then slow it down to LSA specs.  The rules say that the aircraft
> must ALWAYS have met LSA specs in order for a Sport Pilot to fly the
> aircraft, or a private pilot not requiring a medical.
> 
> You also would not need to put a throttle stop on the carb, or use a
> smaller VW engine.  The LSA rules say that it can't exceed 120 kts "with
> maximum CONTINUOUS power".  As the aircraft manufacturer, you can define
> the maximum speed allowed, and you can label the panel with the max RPM
> in level flight, which may be lower than the max RPM that the engine is
> capable of.  This allows you to use full power for takeoff and climb,
> and only have to throttle back once you are at your cruising altitude.
> There are existing aircraft that do this, including the infamous Carbon
> Cub with its 180 hp engine:
> 
> http://www.cubcrafters.com/carboncubss
> 
> Note at the bottom of that page:
> 
> "180 Horsepower for takeoff and climb up to 5 minutes - 80 Horsepower
> for continuous operation. It is the pilots responsibility to operate the
> aircraft in accordance with the pilot operating handbook and aircraft
> placarding. There is NO governor or limiting system that controls the
> engines power settings"
> 
> 
> Here is an overview of the LSA regs if you are curious:
> 
> http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/final_rule_synopsis.html
> 
> -Dj
> 
> 
> -- 
> Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
> Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
> Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
> 
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> options

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[jon kimmel]

I can't argue with the logic of building the wings separately and then
attaching to the fuselage.  707s were done this way and they may still be
building that way.
On Jan 31, 2014 1:22 AM, "Mike T"  wrote:

> I'm still trying to decide whether to build a KR-2 or a Thatcher CX4, a
> recent single-seat aluminum LSA design.  These two designs aren't as far
> apart as they seem, because a KR-2 can also be LSA compliant.  It already
> makes the LSA stall speed if you keep it light, and I could use a smaller
> VW engine (or just adjust the throttle so the carb doesn't open all the
> way) to get it down to the LSA top speed someday.  I think the LSA law
> would le me fly the plane fast for now, then slow it down to make it LSA
> compliant if I ever get sick of getting medicals. By contrast, he CX4's top
> speed is 135 mph and the VNE is 155, so it's not even as fast as the
> fastest LSAs.
>
> But whatever plane I build, I want to build it in the living room of my
> house. As I mentioned here before, I have woodworking and metalworking
> machines in the basement, but that doesn't leave room for the plane down
> there.  Also I have a garage, but it has no heat and limited electricity,
> and sometimes it's wet.  So for much of the year I'd be unable to work
> there, or I'd have to come home from work and fire up a heater for hours to
> warm the garage.   But with the plane in the living room, it would be warm,
> dry, and staring me in the face whenever I came in the door, so I'd have an
> incentive to keep working on it every day.
>
> But there's a problem doing this with a KR: The center spar is so long I'd
> never be able to get it out again after the spar was installed, so I'd have
> to move it to the garage after the boat stage.  The spar is so long is to
> allow for flaps and wing tanks, which I don't want, but trying to change
> the design of the spar and wings would be way too complicated.
>
> So I was all set to give up on the KR2 (and I even bought plans for the
> CX4) when I saw this article in the KR Newsletter of October, 1984 (#112,
> p. 3).  This is a guy who built his wings entirely off the plane. He was
> doing it to make a better wing (and I think he's right).  But doing this
> would also solve my problem of getting the plane out the door when it's
> done.  And it would make it easier to build the wings exactly alike by
> clamping the center spar to the worktable and building both wings at once.
> (And of course you could flip the spar upside down easily, so you could
> foam, glass, and finish both sides easily).  Here's the guy's article,
> between the dotted lines.
>
> ---
> Here's a controversial one!  I am building my wings *out* of the fuselage,
> on a separate table, in a jig.  I believe I will get a guaranteed true
> wing, with the correct washout.  This again steals from model-building
> techniques. To be able to do this at all requires a way to remove the wing
> from the fuselage, and to reassemble it to the fuselage after construction.
>  You can't obviously, *slide* the wing back into the fuselage spar slots.
>
> Here's what I'm doing.  I completely installed the center spars in the
> fuselage *except* that they *aren't glued.*  Turning the fuselage onto its
> top, I cut a slot through the bottom of the fuselage so the spars can be
> lifted out, rather than slid out through the sides.  When the wing is
> finished, I'll just drop it back into the spar slot.  I'll replace the
> lower longerons, which had to be cut to replace the spar slot, by gluing a
> new 5/8 square sub-longeron alongside the one I cut, with a healthy
> overlap, scarf, and plenty of reinforcing glass cloth.
>
> Once the wing is separated in this manner, I can mount the spars on a work
> table and be sure they are jigged perfectly into the correct dihedral,
> washout, etc.
>
> This technique was worked out by my good friend Charlie North, who is a
> licensed A & P, and who feels the end result will be a stronger, more
> accurate finished product.  I'll keep you posted on its success.
>
> Bill Thomas
> 9 Pine Acres Drive
> Canton, CT 06019
> --
>
> Me again. So what do people think of this idea, and do you know if anyone
> else has ever done it?  Adding longeron and plywood reinforcements after
> replacing the spar would add some weight to the plane, but I don't think it
> would very much.
>
> Unfortunately Bill Thomas didn't keep his promise and never wrote anything
> else about how this worked out.  He later had an ad in the Newsletter for
> some unused parts, and years later on KRnet he parted out a KR200 he said
> he finished in 1989.  He said this was because he was buying an RV and
> didn't want the liability of selling the KR, but it sounded as though he
> flew it a couple of hundred hours and there was nothing wrong with it.
>
> I'd be interested in hearing people's opinions about this idea, especially
> the opinions of any A here.  (Also, of 

KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Mike T]

I'm still trying to decide whether to build a KR-2 or a Thatcher CX4, a
recent single-seat aluminum LSA design.  These two designs aren't as far
apart as they seem, because a KR-2 can also be LSA compliant.  It already
makes the LSA stall speed if you keep it light, and I could use a smaller
VW engine (or just adjust the throttle so the carb doesn't open all the
way) to get it down to the LSA top speed someday.  I think the LSA law
would le me fly the plane fast for now, then slow it down to make it LSA
compliant if I ever get sick of getting medicals. By contrast, he CX4's top
speed is 135 mph and the VNE is 155, so it's not even as fast as the
fastest LSAs.

But whatever plane I build, I want to build it in the living room of my
house. As I mentioned here before, I have woodworking and metalworking
machines in the basement, but that doesn't leave room for the plane down
there.  Also I have a garage, but it has no heat and limited electricity,
and sometimes it's wet.  So for much of the year I'd be unable to work
there, or I'd have to come home from work and fire up a heater for hours to
warm the garage.   But with the plane in the living room, it would be warm,
dry, and staring me in the face whenever I came in the door, so I'd have an
incentive to keep working on it every day.

But there's a problem doing this with a KR: The center spar is so long I'd
never be able to get it out again after the spar was installed, so I'd have
to move it to the garage after the boat stage.  The spar is so long is to
allow for flaps and wing tanks, which I don't want, but trying to change
the design of the spar and wings would be way too complicated.

So I was all set to give up on the KR2 (and I even bought plans for the
CX4) when I saw this article in the KR Newsletter of October, 1984 (#112,
p. 3).  This is a guy who built his wings entirely off the plane. He was
doing it to make a better wing (and I think he's right).  But doing this
would also solve my problem of getting the plane out the door when it's
done.  And it would make it easier to build the wings exactly alike by
clamping the center spar to the worktable and building both wings at once.
(And of course you could flip the spar upside down easily, so you could
foam, glass, and finish both sides easily).  Here's the guy's article,
between the dotted lines.

---
Here's a controversial one!  I am building my wings *out* of the fuselage,
on a separate table, in a jig.  I believe I will get a guaranteed true
wing, with the correct washout.  This again steals from model-building
techniques. To be able to do this at all requires a way to remove the wing
from the fuselage, and to reassemble it to the fuselage after construction.
 You can't obviously, *slide* the wing back into the fuselage spar slots.

Here's what I'm doing.  I completely installed the center spars in the
fuselage *except* that they *aren't glued.*  Turning the fuselage onto its
top, I cut a slot through the bottom of the fuselage so the spars can be
lifted out, rather than slid out through the sides.  When the wing is
finished, I'll just drop it back into the spar slot.  I'll replace the
lower longerons, which had to be cut to replace the spar slot, by gluing a
new 5/8 square sub-longeron alongside the one I cut, with a healthy
overlap, scarf, and plenty of reinforcing glass cloth.

Once the wing is separated in this manner, I can mount the spars on a work
table and be sure they are jigged perfectly into the correct dihedral,
washout, etc.

This technique was worked out by my good friend Charlie North, who is a
licensed A & P, and who feels the end result will be a stronger, more
accurate finished product.  I'll keep you posted on its success.

Bill Thomas
9 Pine Acres Drive
Canton, CT 06019
--

Me again. So what do people think of this idea, and do you know if anyone
else has ever done it?  Adding longeron and plywood reinforcements after
replacing the spar would add some weight to the plane, but I don't think it
would very much.

Unfortunately Bill Thomas didn't keep his promise and never wrote anything
else about how this worked out.  He later had an ad in the Newsletter for
some unused parts, and years later on KRnet he parted out a KR200 he said
he finished in 1989.  He said this was because he was buying an RV and
didn't want the liability of selling the KR, but it sounded as though he
flew it a couple of hundred hours and there was nothing wrong with it.

I'd be interested in hearing people's opinions about this idea, especially
the opinions of any A here.  (Also, of course, if Bill Thomas or the A
who designed this setup 30 years ago are here, I'd like to hear from you,
but that seems pretty unlikely at this point).

Mike Taglieri

KR> Building washout into the wing.

[GaryH]

So if I understand this correctly, the plans I have show both spars angled
up 5 inches at the ends.  Then the wing rib templates are configured to
provide the correct incidence and washout.

Gary Hamilton

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Dan Heath
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 6:44 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> Building washout into the wing.

I see no one has answered your question.  Setting the angles on the spars is
what creates the correct washout.  Once that is done, and you keep it that
way through the installation of the foam, sanding, and glass layup, it will
be right in the end.

I have not ever had to do this because both of my KRs came to me as projects
that already had this done, but that is how I understand it is done.

Someone who knows otherwise, please advise.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-

if you keep the  horizontal line on the 
airfoil plans.will the washout be correct when you go  to fiberglass or 
is that something you have to still build in the wing?


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Building washout into the wing.

[Dan Heath]

I see no one has answered your question.  Setting the angles on the spars is
what creates the correct washout.  Once that is done, and you keep it that
way through the installation of the foam, sanding, and glass layup, it will
be right in the end.

I have not ever had to do this because both of my KRs came to me as projects
that already had this done, but that is how I understand it is done.

Someone who knows otherwise, please advise.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-

if you keep the  horizontal line on the 
airfoil plans.will the washout be correct when you go  to fiberglass or 
is that something you have to still build in the wing?

KR> Building wings

[Larry Flesner]

At 07:46 AM 12/3/2010, you wrote:
>I am contemplating building by stub wings at the same time I build 
>my outboard wings.  Kind of makes since but I have not worked out 
>the details.  I was thinking of installing a temporary rib at the 
>location of the cut for the outboard portion.
>Steve Phillabaum
+

I built my stub wings first then added an additional 48" rib to the 
inboard end of the outer wing panel and used that and the 36" tip rib 
as sanding guides.  When finished I filled in the small space between 
the two 48" ribs at the attach point.  I really couldn't see any 
other way of making the transition smoothly as that is where the 
dihedral starts.  Like Mark, that also became the wall of my fuel 
tank in the outer wing panel.

Larry Flesner

KR> Building wings

[Mark Langford]

Steve Phillabaum wrote:

>>I am contemplating building by stub wings at the same time I build my 
>>outboard wings.  Kind of makes since but I have not worked out the 
>>details.  I was thinking of installing a temporary rib at the location of 
>>the cut for the outboard portion. <<

I did exactly that, and ended up leaving it in place, since it became one 
wall for my fuel tank.

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
website www.n56ml.com

KR> Building wings

[phillabaum...@aol.com]

Hello all,

I am contemplating building by stub wings at the same time I build my outboard 
wings.  Kind of makes since but I have not worked out the details.  I was 
thinking of installing a temporary rib at the location of the cut for the 
outboard portion.  Doing this would save some time using the "Flipomatic" tm 
ML.   One additional reason for this is my fuselage is almost complete 
(including panel) except for fairing in some parts and sanding and sanding.  
(No firewall forward).
Constructive comments to either stop me or push me on is appreciated.

Steve Phillabaum
KR2Swide
Shorter Alabama
334-740-0066

KR> building documentation

[Larry Flesner]

>
>Hey don't loose site of the prize by trying to keep the world 
> informed. The main reason for documenting is to prove to the 
> inspector that you built the plane and comply with the 51% rule. 
> Just keep a handwritten log right in your shop or near the door.
>Joe Horton


Also keep a photo album of some type.  Make sure you are in some of the
building photos, especially the early photos, to show at what point you
started or entered the building process.  Neither the photos or the writing
has to be of professional quality.  If you can match the quality of the
photo on your drivers license, that's good enough.  It is an official
government document and they accept that. :-)

If you keep your photos on the computer, make sure you have backup.
Burn a CD every few months or something.

Larry Flesner

KR> Building not resting.

[Darren Crompton]

Hi all.

I have finished my right stub wing which has been built the same way as the
left and explains why the site has not been updated in the last month.
I have added a new page about the wing construction
http://www.kr-2s.com/wings.html as well as a few pics to the stub wing and
flaps pages.
Thanks for the emails from you guys asking about the lack of site updates
and if I was sitting on my hands.  It is good to know my site is checked out
every now and then.


All the best.
-- 
Darren Crompton
AUSTRALIA

My web site: www.kr-2s.com

KR> KR Building Update

[Phil Matheson]

I sent this in hours ago but it did not appear so I'll sent it again.


Well guys and girls, I have all but finished my KR2. I have just spent two
weeks holiday in my workshop and my KR is all but, finished.
I have done all those little jobs, like upholstery,calibrating fuel senders
installing flightsel for my mobile phone usage via headset,The engine will
be refitted next week, as I return to work tomorrow, The cowl has a few
minor glassing jobs around the exhaust outlets then I can paint the cowl and
wing gap seals, THAT will be it.

Then sort out the C of A and YeeeHaaa.
 I had added two photo's to my web page, less the engine. I'm still in two
minds as to the colour of trims to add to the fuselage.

NOTE Please all of you, back up your hard drives, and photo's. I lost my
hard drive yesterday and all of my building photo copies. (plus every thing
else) Don't let it happen to you!!!

I just added the latest photos to my web page. Home page and latest photo
page.


www.philskr2.50megs.com


Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch. 20, VH-PKR
Australia

EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
http://www.vw-engines.com/

Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch. 20
VH-PKR
Australia

EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
http://www.vw-engines.com/ 

KR> KR Building Update

[Mark Jones]

Hey Phil,
great looking job there. I noticed a wheel pant laying under the fuselage. I 
see that is going to be a one piece which will slip over the top of the 
tire. How is this working out for you. I was just going to cut mine in half 
and make a front half and back half but now that I see yours, I like that 
idea better.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI
Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Matheson" <phillipmathe...@bigpond.com>
To: "KR Builder & Pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 9:29 PM
Subject: KR> KR Building Update


>I sent this in hours ago but it did not appear so I'll sent it again.
>
>
> Well guys and girls, I have all but finished my KR2. I have just spent two
> weeks holiday in my workshop and my KR is all but, finished.
> I have done all those little jobs, like upholstery,calibrating fuel 
> senders
> installing flightsel for my mobile phone usage via headset,The engine will
> be refitted next week, as I return to work tomorrow, The cowl has a few
> minor glassing jobs around the exhaust outlets then I can paint the cowl 
> and
> wing gap seals, THAT will be it.
>
> Then sort out the C of A and YeeeHaaa.
> I had added two photo's to my web page, less the engine. I'm still in two
> minds as to the colour of trims to add to the fuselage.
>
> NOTE Please all of you, back up your hard drives, and photo's. I lost my
> hard drive yesterday and all of my building photo copies. (plus every 
> thing
> else) Don't let it happen to you!!!
>
> I just added the latest photos to my web page. Home page and latest photo
> page.
>
>
> www.philskr2.50megs.com
>
>
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20, VH-PKR
> Australia
>
> EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> http://www.vw-engines.com/
>
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20
> VH-PKR
> Australia
>
> EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> http://www.vw-engines.com/
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> KR Building Update

[Darren Crompton]

Phil.

I tried to email you directly but it Bigpond has recently placed all Gmail
accounts on a blacklist.   I have checked the forums and Bigpond has upset a
lot of its customers.  People are complaining but getting nowhere.  Anyway
here's what I sent.

"Hi Phil.

It's always a pain when a HDD dies.
I work in IT for a living and if you would like I would be happy to recover
as much data as I can from your dead HDD, pop it onto DVDs and get them back
to you.

Cheers mate."




On 4/6/07, Mark Jones <flyk...@wi.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Phil,
> great looking job there. I noticed a wheel pant laying under the fuselage.
> I
> see that is going to be a one piece which will slip over the top of the
> tire. How is this working out for you. I was just going to cut mine in
> half
> and make a front half and back half but now that I see yours, I like that
> idea better.
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI
> Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
> E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com
> - Original Message -
> From: "Phil Matheson" <phillipmathe...@bigpond.com>
> To: "KR Builder & Pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 9:29 PM
> Subject: KR> KR Building Update
>
>
> >I sent this in hours ago but it did not appear so I'll sent it again.
> >
> >
> > Well guys and girls, I have all but finished my KR2. I have just spent
> two
> > weeks holiday in my workshop and my KR is all but, finished.
> > I have done all those little jobs, like upholstery,calibrating fuel
> > senders
> > installing flightsel for my mobile phone usage via headset,The engine
> will
> > be refitted next week, as I return to work tomorrow, The cowl has a few
> > minor glassing jobs around the exhaust outlets then I can paint the cowl
> > and
> > wing gap seals, THAT will be it.
> >
> > Then sort out the C of A and YeeeHaaa.
> > I had added two photo's to my web page, less the engine. I'm still in
> two
> > minds as to the colour of trims to add to the fuselage.
> >
> > NOTE Please all of you, back up your hard drives, and photo's. I lost my
> > hard drive yesterday and all of my building photo copies. (plus every
> > thing
> > else) Don't let it happen to you!!!
> >
> > I just added the latest photos to my web page. Home page and latest
> photo
> > page.
> >
> >
> > www.philskr2.50megs.com
> >
> >
> > Phil Matheson
> > SAAA Ch. 20, VH-PKR
> > Australia
> >
> > EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> > KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> > http://www.vw-engines.com/
> >
> > Phil Matheson
> > SAAA Ch. 20
> > VH-PKR
> > Australia
> >
> > EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> > KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> > http://www.vw-engines.com/
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
> > http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>



-- 
Darren Crompton
AUSTRALIA

KR> building outer wing panels first

[Don Chisholm]

I built my outer panels with my Center spars in a roll over jig, using the 
AS504x airfoil templates and a lazer level makes it easy and accurate and doing 
the foam and glasswork is easier also because the work can be turned over to 
the best position to do it in. I also hot wire cut my foam cores from extruded 
styrofoam which made shaping the cores a snap to do and accurate also. I hate 
urethane foam and won't get into a debate about the pros and cons, I just know 
what I prefer. I found this method to be far superior to the way the plans 
suggest to build the plane as I built my KR1 religiously to the plans and have 
had plenty of time to think about how I wasn't going to do it the next time 
around

Re: Réf. : KR> Building Update

[Phil Matheson]

Well I now almost have my Cowl fitted. I have to wait to get some Camloc
Fasteners to finish it off, so another order to Aircraft spruce.
Garry Morgan, was making a cowl for a chap to fit is Jabiru 6 cylinder Joey
two ( KR2SSS) that cowl needed to be 7 inches longer to cover the Jabiru,
and my RG2000 with gear reduction is 5 inched longer than normal, so Garry
was kind enough to make me a cowl, I have had to cut it down the middle as
it was 4 inches wider, then shorten it, and few a fault in the spinner area,
now it looks pretty good.
Now , I'm just getting the spray fill sanded off and almost ready to
undercoat, than SON paint it !!!

Due to a Email server problem ,I have been off the net for about 3 days, so
I hope you are all well and I did not miss nothing important.


Phillip Matheson
0408665880 (cell)
VHPKR
Australia.
mathes...@dodo.com.au
 KR2 Web  Page
www.philskr2.50megs.com

http://www.vw-engines.com/

KR> Building a 2s

[jg7...@mindspring.com]

Hi Guys,
 This is kind of both on and off of the subject but I thought I would share i 
with you. I though when I started this project it would be easier than it is. 
Having built a 2000 square foot office by myself and shortly after that buying 
and moving a house 5 miles remodeling and moving in in 5 weeks I thought would 
give me all the experience I needed to build an airplane. But I can tell you 
this, the KR has been a learning experience. The plus side is, building the KR 
has given me the skills to build some killer custom cabinets for the wife when 
I get around to remodeling the kitchen. The KR does appeal to my perfectionist 
nature and I really look forward to flying with you guys in the future. Thanks 
for all the help along the way.


John Godwin
jg7...@mindspring.com

KR> Building Question

[Kacee Kelley]

For a long time now I have been looking at building a KR2. I have never built 
an airplane before and mainly have flown Tri-Pacers, Cessnas and Cherokees for 
around 500 hours. I think I am of average mechanical ability. 

What do the people that have built / building this type of aircraft think, am I 
taking on to much for a first project?

The information that I have seen estimates 800 hours of building time and a 
little over $10,000.00, does that sound correct?

How about flying this type of aircraft, would it be necessary for duel 
instruction in type and is that possible?

Thank You Very Much for any input you have to offer!

Kacee Kelley

ka...@gtmc.net
Ragan, Nebraska

KR> Building Question

[Bob Glidden]

Kacee
Like you many of us have never built airplanes before.Building a KR is like 
building a R/C airplane on a larger scale.I do have a little bit of a 
mechanical back ground,but building the KR is different then most work I 
do.It is not hard work,just follow the plans and monitor this list and you 
will get through it.If you want a head start try to find a project someone 
has started and are unable to finish.This will save you quite a bit of time 
if the work done is good quality work.Just my thoughts

Bob Glidden
Eminence,Indiana
KR2S N181FW (building)
Corvair 110
glid...@ccrtc.com 

KR> Building Question

[Kenneth Wiltrout]

Kacee you can build it, but how it turns out depends on your willingness to 
commit to the project.

800 hrs to build it is very low in my opinion, I have around 2000 hrs and 
others have broken the 3000 hr mark.

$10,000 in 2006 is wishful thinking, $20,000 and up  is probably closer to 
reality but that depends how much fabrication you do as opposed to going 
with premolded parts etc.

I did not have dual as there were none in the area I was aware of, just get 
the feel of it on the ground 1st to build your confidence and ask questions 
on the KR net.

Ken Wiltrout
Kutztown, Pa


- Original Message - 
From: "Kacee Kelley" <ka...@gtmc.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: KR> Building Question


> For a long time now I have been looking at building a KR2. I have never 
> built an airplane before and mainly have flown Tri-Pacers, Cessnas and 
> Cherokees for around 500 hours. I think I am of average mechanical 
> ability.
>
> What do the people that have built / building this type of aircraft think, 
> am I taking on to much for a first project?
>
> The information that I have seen estimates 800 hours of building time and 
> a little over $10,000.00, does that sound correct?
>
> How about flying this type of aircraft, would it be necessary for duel 
> instruction in type and is that possible?
>
> Thank You Very Much for any input you have to offer!
>
> Kacee Kelley
>
> ka...@gtmc.net
> Ragan, Nebraska
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.1/369 - Release Date: 6/19/2006
>
> 

KR> Building Question

[Dan Heath]

Kacee,

I think the estimate on the hours is on the very optimistic side, but how
much it will take, depends on how many times you build the same part and how
closely you stick to the plans and available parts.  The cost is a good
estimate.  I usually estimate it at around $12,000, but I know that it can
be done for much less. 

Getting dual is very unlikely, but if you build a tri-gear, you should have
no problem at all.  However, if you are going to go to all the effort to
build a KR, it might also be worth the effort to learn to fly a conventional
gear aircraft as the KR is an easy one to master.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building
is OVER.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---

From: Kacee Kelley
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 06/19/06 18:35:08
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Building Question

For a long time now I have been looking at building a KR2. I have never
built an airplane before and mainly have flown Tri-Pacers, Cessnas and
Cherokees for around 500 hours. I think I am of average mechanical ability.

What do the people that have built / building this type of aircraft think,
am I taking on to much for a first project?

The information that I have seen estimates 800 hours of building time and a
little over $10,000.00, does that sound correct?

How about flying this type of aircraft, would it be necessary for duel
instruction in type and is that possible?

Thank You Very Much for any input you have to offer!

Kacee Kelley

ka...@gtmc.net
Ragan, Nebraska
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Building Question

[D F Lively]

Kacee:

I know the advertiseing says 800 hours but what does that include.  Does that 
include "Do-Overs"?  I am sure ther will be some In short I think a lot of that 
depends on you account for the indirect & overhead hours and you
interpretation of what to include and then there is figuring out how to deal 
with the areas of "Vagueness" in the plans which this group will provide much 
assistance.

As far as cost is concerned the little over $10k is probably only a little 
optimistic for a "Bare Bones" flight ready machine if your scrouging ability is 
good.  As for me I plan on getting a "Great Plains" egine set with
Diehl Accessory case dual ignition all new with accessories, assembled and "Run 
Tested and the price sched. says about $6k alone for the package. That will 
probably bring my cost to closer to $15k plus with a decent
functional panel for long x-c flights.

As for flight training I would say figure out how to get some from what I have 
heard.  I have about 350 hrs in  150s, 172s, 177s & 182w in the Cessna line 
plus a fair number of  hours in Piper Cherokee140s, 150s, 160s,
180s and 235s plus some minor hours in the Camanche 250, Mooney(?) Kadet and 
the Piper Colt.   I say that I will get some training because of  the 
sensitivity of the KR's controls that I have picked up from the net and I
think that may take some getting use to.

I have taken over a project and found several things that require correction 
plus I plan on doing some things a little different than the plans, primarily 
wing tanks and  reducing the header tank to 3 gallons max.  I have
gotten hooked into the local EAA chapter hear and touched base with their tech 
counsulors and I would recommend that anyone taking on this project do the 
same.  I am also convinced that for a two place plane the KR is
probably a good place to start but recomend staying away from the retractable 
gear at least as far as the original design is concerned and suspect that the 
Tri-Gear version is not so great on unpaved stripsbut that you
will have to verify with a experienced builder.

Maybe Mark Langford, Mark Jones, Larry Flesner or Joe Horton will clear up any 
questions you have and check the KR-list using the search option.

Don Lively
Burlington IA 52601
1st time bldr.
  



Kacee Kelley wrote:

> For a long time now I have been looking at building a KR2. I have never built 
> an airplane before and mainly have flown Tri-Pacers, Cessnas and Cherokees 
> for around 500 hours. I think I am of average mechanical ability.
>
> What do the people that have built / building this type of aircraft think, am 
> I taking on to much for a first project?
>
> The information that I have seen estimates 800 hours of building time and a 
> little over $10,000.00, does that sound correct?
>
> How about flying this type of aircraft, would it be necessary for duel 
> instruction in type and is that possible?
>
> Thank You Very Much for any input you have to offer!
>
> Kacee Kelley
>
> ka...@gtmc.net
> Ragan, Nebraska
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Building Question

[Donald Reid]

At 06:34 PM 6/19/2006, you wrote:
>What do the people that have built / building this type of aircraft 
>think, am I taking on to much for a first project?
>
>The information that I have seen estimates 800 hours of building 
>time and a little over $10,000.00, does that sound correct?

If you want to have a scratch-built project, this is a good one.  The 
lowest actual building time that I have ever heard of was 1200 
hours.   I want mine to be perfect and I am to 8000.  It is all a 
matter of what you are personally willing to accept.



Don Reid  -  donreid "at" peoplepc.com
Bumpass, Va

Visit my web sites at:

AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program:
http://aerofoilengineering.com

KR2XL construction: http://aerofoilengineering.com/KR/KR2XL.htm
Aviation Surplus: http://aerofoilengineering.com/PartsListing/Airparts.htm
EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org
Ultralights: http://usua250.org
VA EAA Regional Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org

Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Update

[steve]

At 04:36 PM 19/06/2006, you wrote:
>Phil,
>
>Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
>Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia.
>;-)
  no its true serge, the flat lands are colder that the high country 
, wangeratta was -7* c the other day. there's been heaps of sightings 
of the bunyips, river appears to be too cold for them at the 
moment  :-D . Steve Edwards .. Myrlteford.. victoria  Australia 

Réf. : Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Update

[Serge VIDAL]

I didn't know the bunyips were that sensitive to cold water. Too bad. I 
wanted to try and make a bunyip skin diving suit. ; - )

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France





steve <steve...@iprimus.com.au>

Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
20/06/2006 03:49
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 20/06/2006 03:51


Pour :  KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Update



At 04:36 PM 19/06/2006, you wrote:
>Phil,
>
>Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
>Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia.
>;-)
  no its true serge, the flat lands are colder that the high country 
, wangeratta was -7* c the other day. there's been heaps of sightings 
of the bunyips, river appears to be too cold for them at the 
moment  :-D . Steve Edwards .. Myrlteford.. victoria 
Australia 



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Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Upbate

[Chris Johnston]

Serge reports that :
'Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia. "

Very true, it has regularly been -1 and zero here at Richmond, 50 miles 
west of Sydney, and at a relatives place at Mudgee, about 180 miles to the 
NW of Sydney, it has been down to -10, with urethane foam at $1000 dollars a 
cubic metre, ( so I made the turtle deck from wood, almost finished ), why 
anyone would want to come here, beats me??? Oh and during summer, I have 
been gliding in 45-47 degrees C heat, which is not hot by world standards, 
but still pretty bad, which reminds me, I must fill out that green card form 
sometime




Chris Johnston

North Richmond NSW

Australia
- Original Message - 
From: "Serge VIDAL" <serge.vi...@sagem.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 4:36 PM
Subject: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Upbate


Phil,

Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia.
;-)

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France





"Phil Matheson" <mathes...@dodo.com.au>

Envoyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem@mylist.net
18/06/2006 02:18
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 18/06/2006 02:34


Pour :  "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: KR> Building Upbate



Well, I can now say I have a complete KR2,( less cowl)
My only main items are , inner wing fairings, gap seals.
Cowl is being made and will be a week or two, hope to start on my inner
wing
fairing tonight , But it's minus 5 C and a bit cool in the shed.
So I'm filling and sanding sanding sanding,



Phillip Matheson
0408665880 (cell)
VHPKR
Australia.
mathes...@dodo.com.au
NEW WEB PAGE
www.philskr2.50megs.com

http://www.vw-engines.com/
OLD WEB PAGE
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html



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Réf. : Re: KR> Building Upbate

[D F Lively]

Chris J:

That sounds like 113 to 115 Deg. F--- Must have been in the "Out-Back"
somewhere--- Sounds like places in California in the summer such as Sacramento
where I have seen 117 or even Red Bluff or Redding.

Weatherwise I'd still take Austrailia to anywhere here in Iowa.

Don Lively
  

Chris Johnston wrote:

> Serge reports that :
> 'Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
> Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia. "
>
> Very true, it has regularly been -1 and zero here at Richmond, 50 miles
> west of Sydney, and at a relatives place at Mudgee, about 180 miles to the
> NW of Sydney, it has been down to -10, with urethane foam at $1000 dollars a
> cubic metre, ( so I made the turtle deck from wood, almost finished ), why
> anyone would want to come here, beats me??? Oh and during summer, I have
> been gliding in 45-47 degrees C heat, which is not hot by world standards,
> but still pretty bad, which reminds me, I must fill out that green card form
> sometime
>
>
> Chris Johnston
>
> North Richmond NSW
>
> Australia
> - Original Message -
> From: "Serge VIDAL" <serge.vi...@sagem.com>
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 4:36 PM
> Subject: Réf. : Re: KR> Building Upbate
>
> Phil,
>
> Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story.
> Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia.
> ;-)
>
> Serge Vidal
> KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
> Paris, France
>
> "Phil Matheson" <mathes...@dodo.com.au>
>
> Envoyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem@mylist.net
> 18/06/2006 02:18
> Veuillez répondre à KRnet
> Remis le : 18/06/2006 02:34
>
> Pour :  "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
> Objet : Re: KR> Building Upbate
>
> Well, I can now say I have a complete KR2,( less cowl)
> My only main items are , inner wing fairings, gap seals.
> Cowl is being made and will be a week or two, hope to start on my inner
> wing
> fairing tonight , But it's minus 5 C and a bit cool in the shed.
> So I'm filling and sanding sanding sanding,
>
> Phillip Matheson
> 0408665880 (cell)
> VHPKR
> Australia.
> mathes...@dodo.com.au
> NEW WEB PAGE
> www.philskr2.50megs.com
>
> http://www.vw-engines.com/
> OLD WEB PAGE
> http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Building Upbate

[Phil Matheson]

Well, I can now say I have a complete KR2,( less cowl)
My only main items are , inner wing fairings, gap seals.
Cowl is being made and will be a week or two, hope to start on my inner wing
fairing tonight , But it's minus 5 C and a bit cool in the shed.
So I'm filling and sanding sanding sanding,



Phillip Matheson
0408665880 (cell)
VHPKR
Australia.
mathes...@dodo.com.au
NEW WEB PAGE
www.philskr2.50megs.com

http://www.vw-engines.com/
OLD WEB PAGE
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html

Réf. : Re: KR> Building Upbate

[Serge VIDAL]

Phil,

Congrats. Although I don't believe a word of that minus 5C story. 
Actually, you are just trying to deter me from emigrating to Australia. 
;-)

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France





"Phil Matheson" <mathes...@dodo.com.au>

Envoyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem@mylist.net
18/06/2006 02:18
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 18/06/2006 02:34


Pour :  "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: KR> Building Upbate



Well, I can now say I have a complete KR2,( less cowl)
My only main items are , inner wing fairings, gap seals.
Cowl is being made and will be a week or two, hope to start on my inner 
wing
fairing tonight , But it's minus 5 C and a bit cool in the shed.
So I'm filling and sanding sanding sanding,



Phillip Matheson
0408665880 (cell)
VHPKR
Australia.
mathes...@dodo.com.au
NEW WEB PAGE
www.philskr2.50megs.com

http://www.vw-engines.com/
OLD WEB PAGE
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html



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KR> Building update

[Phil Matheson]

I have now got my throttles worked out for my twin carbs.
and making trim system.
I have the panel almost to where I want it.
I'm waiting on some stuff to make up the carb and cabin heat.
I have added some photo's to my web page in the Latest photo update page.


Phillip Matheson
0408665880 (cell)
VHPKR
Australia.
mathes...@dodo.com.au
NEW WEB PAGE
www.philskr2.50megs.com

http://www.vw-engines.com/
OLD WEB PAGE
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html

KR> Building a KR - SoCal

[larry severson]

Anyone in the LA basin who is building, or thinking of building, a KR2 - or 
other composite aircraft - needs to get in the classes at Cerritos College 
(605 fwy at the 91 fwy) . I have taken the EAA classes. Cerritos is a whole 
lot better, AND cheaper. Additionally, they have most of the material that 
you need for building available at no charge. I am currently taking 2 
classes and a lab course for a total cost under $175. Yesterday, vacuum 
bagged a carbon fiber speed brake for my Q2. Next, I plan to make up a KR 
wing using honeycomb and graphite to create the spars, ribs, and wing 
skins. I should end up with a very light wing that is stronger than the 
design in the plans. It will all be with college materials.

They also have $2 million worth of equipment available including an 
autoclave to help in the building.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR> building fibreglass geer legs.

[harold woods]

Hi Netters.
Steve Phillabaum wanted information on making a fiberglass gear leg. I built 
my own. I used roving, which is fiberglass string, about the thickness of 
"butcher string". It came in a spool about a foot in diameter. I decided to 
build both legs at the same time I built a box form over twice the required 
gear length. It was about 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep.At each end of the 
box were rows and rows of nails. At this point I painted the entire inside 
of the box, nails enclosed with hot melted parafin wax., as a mould release 
agent.The roving was attached to the first nail strung along the bottom of 
the box, hooked over a nail at the other end, then strung back to the next 
nail in line. after the entire bottom of the box was covered with this 
"string" it was fibreglasses. I used a very slow hardener, Versamid 140. 
This gave a pot life of about 4 to 6 hours. After the box was full I set a 
piece of polyethylene over it and planed a closely fitted lid on the box.I 
squeezed the lid down with clamps starting at the center.This squeezed the 
excess epoxy out the ends. I removed the lid and plastic and added more 
layer of roving  This was repeated until the box was filled to a depth of 1 
inch with compressed roving. The lid was left on until the next day.The gear 
leg was removed and the wax was washed off with gasoline.  I sacrificed an 
old band saw blade to cut the leg in half. I made this cut at an angle of 
about 25 degrees.Then back about a foot from where the cut slope begins I 
cut it off at 90 degrees. The short piece was then epoxied onto the main leg 
with the two 90 degree cut end together.This gave me a 2 inch thick leer leg 
which tapered down to 1 inch. The leg was mounted on a suitable aluminum 
bracket which was bolted to the front of the front spar.The gear leg has 
only one hole in it where it attaches to the bracket. Aluminum bars bolted 
to the bracket on the front and back hold the gear leg in firm position. A 
cover of 3/8" aluminum on top hold everything tight together. the other end 
of the gear leg has a spring steel plate bolted to it with 4 bolts. It was 
bent to suitably accept the wheel axel which was then bolted to it.
I tested the gear leg by bolting it to a heavy support on one end and 
affixing a 2 x 2 x 1/8" x 10' angle iron to it. Weights were added and 
removed, checking to see that the gear returned back to it's original 
position. The weight was a 150 pound man that walked out on the angle iron. 
It  bend of about 12 inches , the angle iron collapsed where it was bolted 
to the gear leg. The man was at about 9 feet from the gear leg end when the 
iron failed. I consider the gear leg good and strong. I subsequently have 
heard that the rear spring in a Corvette car has a suitable fiberglass 
spring . This should be investigated. before making your own.
If any one wants diagrams of the box I would send it to them as an 
attachment.
Regards
Harold Woods
Orillia,ON. Canada.
haroldwo...@rogers.com 

KR> building fibreglass geer legs.

[billsta...@peoplepc.com]

Thank you very much. Yes I would like a diagram  of the box. PTL, Bill Starrs
- Original Message - 
From: "harold woods" <haroldwo...@rogers.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 9:42 AM
Subject: KR> building fibreglass geer legs.


Hi Netters.
Steve Phillabaum wanted information on making a fiberglass gear leg. I built 
my own. I used roving, which is fiberglass string, about the thickness of 
"butcher string". It came in a spool about a foot in diameter. I decided to 
build both legs at the same time I built a box form over twice the required 
gear length. It was about 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep.At each end of the 
box were rows and rows of nails. At this point I painted the entire inside 
of the box, nails enclosed with hot melted parafin wax., as a mould release 
agent.The roving was attached to the first nail strung along the bottom of 
the box, hooked over a nail at the other end, then strung back to the next 
nail in line. after the entire bottom of the box was covered with this 
"string" it was fibreglasses. I used a very slow hardener, Versamid 140. 
This gave a pot life of about 4 to 6 hours. After the box was full I set a 
piece of polyethylene over it and planed a closely fitted lid on the box.I 
squeezed the lid down with clamps starting at the center.This squeezed the 
excess epoxy out the ends. I removed the lid and plastic and added more 
layer of roving  This was repeated until the box was filled to a depth of 1 
inch with compressed roving. The lid was left on until the next day.The gear 
leg was removed and the wax was washed off with gasoline.  I sacrificed an 
old band saw blade to cut the leg in half. I made this cut at an angle of 
about 25 degrees.Then back about a foot from where the cut slope begins I 
cut it off at 90 degrees. The short piece was then epoxied onto the main leg 
with the two 90 degree cut end together.This gave me a 2 inch thick leer leg 
which tapered down to 1 inch. The leg was mounted on a suitable aluminum 
bracket which was bolted to the front of the front spar.The gear leg has 
only one hole in it where it attaches to the bracket. Aluminum bars bolted 
to the bracket on the front and back hold the gear leg in firm position. A 
cover of 3/8" aluminum on top hold everything tight together. the other end 
of the gear leg has a spring steel plate bolted to it with 4 bolts. It was 
bent to suitably accept the wheel axel which was then bolted to it.
I tested the gear leg by bolting it to a heavy support on one end and 
affixing a 2 x 2 x 1/8" x 10' angle iron to it. Weights were added and 
removed, checking to see that the gear returned back to it's original 
position. The weight was a 150 pound man that walked out on the angle iron. 
It  bend of about 12 inches , the angle iron collapsed where it was bolted 
to the gear leg. The man was at about 9 feet from the gear leg end when the 
iron failed. I consider the gear leg good and strong. I subsequently have 
heard that the rear spring in a Corvette car has a suitable fiberglass 
spring . This should be investigated. before making your own.
If any one wants diagrams of the box I would send it to them as an 
attachment.
Regards
Harold Woods
Orillia,ON. Canada.
haroldwo...@rogers.com 


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KR> building fibreglass geer legs.

[Brian Kraut]

What are the advantages of using the roving over using unidirectional cloth?
I assume that you get nice straight fibers that way, but is there anything
else?

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
harold woods
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:43 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> building fibreglass geer legs.


Hi Netters.
Steve Phillabaum wanted information on making a fiberglass gear leg. I built
my own. I used roving, which is fiberglass string, about the thickness of
"butcher string". It came in a spool about a foot in diameter. I decided to
build both legs at the same time I built a box form over twice the required
gear length. It was about 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep.At each end of the
box were rows and rows of nails. At this point I painted the entire inside
of the box, nails enclosed with hot melted parafin wax., as a mould release
agent.The roving was attached to the first nail strung along the bottom of
the box, hooked over a nail at the other end, then strung back to the next
nail in line. after the entire bottom of the box was covered with this
"string" it was fibreglasses. I used a very slow hardener, Versamid 140.
This gave a pot life of about 4 to 6 hours. After the box was full I set a
piece of polyethylene over it and planed a closely fitted lid on the box.I
squeezed the lid down with clamps starting at the center.This squeezed the
excess epoxy out the ends. I removed the lid and plastic and added more
layer of roving  This was repeated until the box was filled to a depth of 1
inch with compressed roving. The lid was left on until the next day.The gear
leg was removed and the wax was washed off with gasoline.  I sacrificed an
old band saw blade to cut the leg in half. I made this cut at an angle of
about 25 degrees.Then back about a foot from where the cut slope begins I
cut it off at 90 degrees. The short piece was then epoxied onto the main leg
with the two 90 degree cut end together.This gave me a 2 inch thick leer leg
which tapered down to 1 inch. The leg was mounted on a suitable aluminum
bracket which was bolted to the front of the front spar.The gear leg has
only one hole in it where it attaches to the bracket. Aluminum bars bolted
to the bracket on the front and back hold the gear leg in firm position. A
cover of 3/8" aluminum on top hold everything tight together. the other end
of the gear leg has a spring steel plate bolted to it with 4 bolts. It was
bent to suitably accept the wheel axel which was then bolted to it.
I tested the gear leg by bolting it to a heavy support on one end and
affixing a 2 x 2 x 1/8" x 10' angle iron to it. Weights were added and
removed, checking to see that the gear returned back to it's original
position. The weight was a 150 pound man that walked out on the angle iron.
It  bend of about 12 inches , the angle iron collapsed where it was bolted
to the gear leg. The man was at about 9 feet from the gear leg end when the
iron failed. I consider the gear leg good and strong. I subsequently have
heard that the rear spring in a Corvette car has a suitable fiberglass
spring . This should be investigated. before making your own.
If any one wants diagrams of the box I would send it to them as an
attachment.
Regards
Harold Woods
Orillia,ON. Canada.
haroldwo...@rogers.com


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please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> building and flying

[Brian Kraut]

I have finally found a way to afford to build and keep flying at the same
time.  I joined the local glider club.  $30 a month, about $12 for a tow
depending on height, and $6, yes six, dollar rental for the glider.  They
have five gliders, never have enough people waiting to need them all in the
air at one time, and I will be able to get checked out in the tow plane
soon.  Flying the tow plane is FREE flight time and does not require a
commercial rating.  Also met another member with an L-39 that will give me
jet time for fuel cost only, about $250 an hour.

If anyone wants to find a local glider club go to www.ssa.org.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

KR> Building my cowl mold

[John Bouyea]

Dan Heath asked for a few images about my cowl building process.  This
page is simple and quick, so if you have any questions, let me know.

http://www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/n5391m/cowl/Default.htm


John Bouyea
KR2 - hanging the engine accessories
KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters

john_0...@bouyea.net

www.bouyea.net

KR> Building my cowl mold

[Joseph H Horton]

> Dan Heath asked for a few images about my cowl building process.  
> This
> page is simple and quick, so if you have any questions, let me know.
>  
> http://www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/n5391m/cowl/Default.htm
>  
>  
> John Bouyea
> KR2 - hanging the engine accessories
> KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters
>  
John
Where did you get the air scoop. And if you could what are the
dimentions of it?
Joe Horton
Coopersburg, Pa.
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR> Building my cowl mold

[Jack Cooper]

John
  I just tried to surf your site. It seems the links on your default page
are not working.

 Jack Cooper


> [Original Message]
> From: Joseph H Horton <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Date: 5/17/2004 9:06:14 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> Building my cowl mold
>
>
>
> > Dan Heath asked for a few images about my cowl building process.  
> > This
> > page is simple and quick, so if you have any questions, let me know.
> >  
> > http://www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/n5391m/cowl/Default.htm
> >  
> >  
> > John Bouyea
> > KR2 - hanging the engine accessories
> > KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters
> >  
> John
>   Where did you get the air scoop. And if you could what are the
> dimentions of it?
> Joe Horton
> Coopersburg, Pa.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Building my cowl mold

[Mark Jones]

Joe,
I may be wrong, but that scoop looks like a Van's RV scoop which Dana
Overall introduced us to. I actually ordered one and had it here but
returned it because I decided not to use it. Here is the link.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1084845833-162-234=engines=cowl-airscoop

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Joseph H Horton" <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Building my cowl mold


>
>
> > Dan Heath asked for a few images about my cowl building process.
> > This
> > page is simple and quick, so if you have any questions, let me know.
> >
> > http://www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/n5391m/cowl/Default.htm
> >
> >
> > John Bouyea
> > KR2 - hanging the engine accessories
> > KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters
> >
> John
> Where did you get the air scoop. And if you could what are the
> dimentions of it?
> Joe Horton
> Coopersburg, Pa.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Building my cowl mold

[Joseph H Horton]

On Mon, 17 May 2004 21:05:43 -0500 "Mark Jones" 
writes:
> Joe,
> I may be wrong, but that scoop looks like a Van's RV scoop which 
> Dana
> Overall introduced us to. I actually ordered one and had it here but
> returned it because I decided not to use it. Here is the link.
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1084845833-162-234;
browse=engines=cowl-airscoop
> 
OK - I went to the site but they don't show a picture and there are 6 or
8 models listed. How do you figure out what is what.?
Mark, what are you doing for air intake on yours?
Joe Horton
Coopersburg, Pa.
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR>Building to Plans

[raybeth...@wmconnect.com]

You are right Larry,
If you want to finish faster and better, follow the plans.  Speaking from
someone who knows.  I've learned that lesson the hard way, but I have a
tiger by the tail and can't let go.  It seems to me, the average builder [
or builder wanting to fly with less time building, buy the plans and every
prefab part you can afford to purchase and build it to plans.

12 years and counting

Ron, I agree with you.  i have been working on my KR2S since Jan. 1994. I 
have made several changes, which necesitated other changes and I am only about 
3/4 way finished.  I started out with the goal of finishing mine with $15,000.  
As it stands right now , I think I can do it on $18,000.Good luck,  Ray 
Goree, Arlimgton, Tx.

KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

[Kenneth L Wiltrout]

Ron I'm not sure how big a shop you have but I built mine in a 1 car
garage and built it with the wings attached. I had it in the garage with
the wing span running the length of the garage and the tail and firewall 
were between the sides. When it was time to flip it over I got the
neighbor involved. Worked very well.



On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 09:20:44 -0500 "Ron Freiberger"
<rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com> writes:
> You failed to understand that I don't have enough room to build them 
> that
> way.
> 
> Ron Freiberger
> mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On 
> Behalf Of
> Dan Heath
> Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:43 AM
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: KR>Building wings - Off the plane?
> 
> I suggest that you build yourself a Flip-O-Matic, ala Mark Langford. 
>  You
> will need it anyway.  You must be building the top side on the 
> plane.
> Carefully remove it, flip your plane, turn the wing over, put it 
> back on and
> continue on your way.  If you don't build it on the plane, you won't 
> be sure
> it is right, until it is done.  then it is too late.
> 
> 
> 
> N64KR
> 
> 
> 
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
> 
> 
> 
> da...@kr-builder.org
> 
> 
> 
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
> 
> 
> 
> See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
> 
> See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
> 
>  ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> 


The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

[skp...@charter.net]

Ron, Try to find someone building a Mustang II,  I helped 
my father build his wings OFF THE PLANE.  Although they 
are aluminum. I don't see why it can't be done for the KR. 
 Just put in a lot of thought.

Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, AL (KAUO)

On Tue, 11 Nov 2003 09:20:44 -0500
  "Ron Freiberger" <rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com> wrote:
>You failed to understand that I don't have enough room to 
>build them that
>way.
>
>Ron Freiberger
>mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com
>
>-Original Message-
>From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net 
>[mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
>Dan Heath
>Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:43 AM
>To: kr...@mylist.net
>Subject: KR>Building wings - Off the plane?
>
>I suggest that you build yourself a Flip-O-Matic, ala 
>Mark Langford.  You
>will need it anyway.  You must be building the top side 
>on the plane.
>Carefully remove it, flip your plane, turn the wing over, 
>put it back on and
>continue on your way.  If you don't build it on the 
>plane, you won't be sure
>it is right, until it is done.  then it is too late.
>
>
>
>N64KR
>
>
>
>Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
>
>da...@kr-builder.org
>
>
>
>See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering
>
>
>
>See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
>
>See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org
>
>  ___
>see KRnet list details at 
>http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>
>___
>see KRnet list details at 
>http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building wings..Off the 'plane

[Ron Freiberger]

My problem... not enough garage room for the KRSport wing.  I'm curious to
know how stiff it'll be after I get one side glassed.  Can I detach it from
the wing stub and finish the other side mounted on a "custom made" support
structure?  My goal is 28 foot span, same 36 inch chord at the tips, slotted
airfoil at the outer ends, no washout.

It sure would be easier if I could take the partially completed wing off
with one side glassed.

Someone said, "Opinions are like _.  Everyone has their own, nobody
wants to look at yours".  But with no wing to squeeze or twist here, I need
some opinions.

Ron FreibergerSport pilot in process.
mailto: rfreiberger at swfla.rr.com

KR>Building wings..Off the 'plane

[Joseph H Horton]

On Sun, 9 Nov 2003 16:56:20 -0500 "Ron Freiberger"
 writes:
> My problem... not enough garage room for the KRSport wing.  I'm 
> curious to
> know how stiff it'll be after I get one side glassed.  Can I detach 
> it from
> the wing stub and finish the other side mounted on a "custom made" 
> support
> structure? 
Ron -- I just finished building wings a week ago and I would not remove
the wings half finished. There was still a good deal of flex and twist
that could be induced with one side glassed. When the second side was
glassed I was amazed at how stiff they became. I could not twist the wing
at the tip with it all cured.
God luck Joe Horton

KR>Building wings..Off the 'plane

[larry flesner]

>It sure would be easier if I could take the partially completed wing off
>with one side glassed.
>Ron Freiberger   
+

Ron,

I removed my outer wing panels after glassing the tops. I placed
them on a work table, and then built my fuel tanks complete
except for the closing which was the bottom side of the wing.
There was little if any flex.  I did mount them back to the stub
wings before glassing the bottom but I see no reason you
couldn't do the same with your "custom jig" if it were built
to close tolerance.  

The two critical factors here would be the fit of the wing attach
fittings and building the wing true, ZERO WASHOUT in your case.
A well built jig should hold the attach fittings as you also have
the inboard rib, foam, and glass.  My fittings fit perfectly when
I reattached my wings.

As for holding the wing true, mark your cord lines on the inboard
and outboard ribs and attach a piece of "quarter round" trim
or some type of platform on which to place a level.  SmartLevel
would be best but a good bubble level should be just as accurate.
Make sure you jig the wing with both cord lines level and it
should work out just fine.  I'd even go out on a limb and say that
if you used a piece of 1/4" ply for the inboard rib and used gussets,
that you could do the entire wing on a jig after you glue the ribs
in place with the spars attached to the stub wing fittings.

I recall you wanted some a__h___ to give you an opinion so I felt
obligated to reply. :-)

Have a good one.

Larry Flesner

KR>Building wings/confused?

[larry flesner]

>As for holding the wing true, mark your cord lines on the inboard
>and outboard ribs 
>Larry Flesner
+++

It came to me in the shower that I've probably confused the entire
KR building movement.  

I don't believe the plans call for a 48 inch rib at the inner end of
outboard wing panel.  That was something I added to make 
for easier building.  That gave me a sanding guide on each end
of the outer wing panel and I later filled in the gap between the
stub wing and the outer wing panel.  That is also what helped
to take the flex out of the wing when removed with only one
side glassed.

SORRY ABOUT THAT!

Larry Flesner

KR>Building wings off fuse

[Steve and Lori McGee]

I will be assaulting this issue also. My current plans are to make a cherry 
picker style jig with mocked up wing attach fittings.  Hopefully this will 
allow the construction of both sides without removing, by making the jig so the 
wing can be turned as if on a rotisserie.  

Safe Flying to ya!
Steve McGee
Endeavor Wi.
Building a KR2S widened.
lmc...@maqs.net 

KR>Building wings..Off the 'plane

[roger mitchell]

RON , if your very careful you can handle the wings with one side,including 
leading edge glassed. I did both tops of the wings,removed them and did the 
bottom,I build a rotersery to aid in tis process,I would supply plans for the 
rotersery to any one interseted for a tail wheel version.  could you have room 
if you did one wing at-a-time?  

KR>Building wings/confused?

[Mike Turner]

 If I was planning to glass the other side of the wing off the aircraft I 
think I would glass the vertical surfaces of the foam ribs prior to detaching 
the wings in order to cut down on the amount of flexing of the wings.

   Mike Turner
  - Original Message - 
  From: larry flesner 
  To: KRnet 
  Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 9:50 PM
  Subject: KR>Building wings/confused?


  >As for holding the wing true, mark your cord lines on the inboard
  >and outboard ribs 
  >Larry Flesner
  +++

That is also what helped
  to take the flex out of the wing when removed with only one
  side glassed.

  SORRY ABOUT THAT!

  Larry Flesner



  ___
  see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

[Dan Heath]

I suggest that you build yourself a Flip-O-Matic, ala Mark Langford.  You
will need it anyway.  You must be building the top side on the plane. 
Carefully remove it, flip your plane, turn the wing over, put it back on and
continue on your way.  If you don't build it on the plane, you won't be sure
it is right, until it is done.  then it is too late. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

[Ron Freiberger]

You failed to understand that I don't have enough room to build them that
way.

Ron Freiberger
mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
Dan Heath
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:43 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

I suggest that you build yourself a Flip-O-Matic, ala Mark Langford.  You
will need it anyway.  You must be building the top side on the plane.
Carefully remove it, flip your plane, turn the wing over, put it back on and
continue on your way.  If you don't build it on the plane, you won't be sure
it is right, until it is done.  then it is too late.



N64KR



Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC



da...@kr-builder.org



See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering



See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic

See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

 ___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

[Mike Turner]

Ron If you haven't mounted your wafs yet you could put them on the outer wings 
spars,  build them complete to your specications bolt the short wing wafs on 
the fittings you already have in place then line them up to the short wings and 
drill your holes through the spars and attach them last. That would garrentee 
they will fit.
   Hope this makes sense---In other words build it backwards

   Mike Turner
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Freiberger 
  To: KRnet 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 8:20 AM
  Subject: RE: KR>Building wings - Off the plane?


  You failed to understand that I don't have enough room to build them that
  way.

  Ron Freiberger
  mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com

  -Original Message-
  From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
  Dan Heath
  Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:43 AM
  To: kr...@mylist.net
  Subject: KR>Building wings - Off the plane?

  I suggest that you build yourself a Flip-O-Matic, ala Mark Langford.  You
  will need it anyway.  You must be building the top side on the plane.
  Carefully remove it, flip your plane, turn the wing over, put it back on and
  continue on your way.  If you don't build it on the plane, you won't be sure
  it is right, until it is done.  then it is too late.



  N64KR



  Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC



  da...@kr-builder.org



  See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering



  See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic

  See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

   ___
  see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


  ___
  see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>building counterbalance on elevator!!!

[Ross Evans]

hi guys I am after some info on how to attach a counter balance on the 
elevator. how would you attach the arm to an already built elevator as per 
plans using what material. Mark langford u gave me the idea how would u do 
it? I have purchased the project in Australia. How fast will a kr2S go with 
110hp with reduction drive?
Cheers

Ross Evans
Brisbane Australia

_
E-mail just got a whole lot better. New ninemsn Premium. Click here 
http://ninemsn.com.au/premium/landing.asp

KR>building counterbalance on elevator!!!

[Justin]

The way im doing my Counter-balances is this. First I build the HS and
offsetting the outboard jigs by 2" closer to the center. Then Im going to
cut into the HS and attach the counterweight usuing plywood, foam around it
and glass it in place. The plywood is only to hold the weigth in place for
the cureing time of the fiberglass. Doign it this way I have to cut into the
aft spar for the HS but not much.

Yours is already build some some how find a way to get another peice of
wood inbetween the 2 spars for torision strength. Mine are offset like I
said.

Good luck,
Justin
N116JW
www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
- Original Message -
From: "Ross Evans" <fly...@hotmail.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 5:35 PM
Subject: KR>building counterbalance on elevator!!!


> hi guys I am after some info on how to attach a counter balance on the
> elevator. how would you attach the arm to an already built elevator as per
> plans using what material. Mark langford u gave me the idea how would u do
> it? I have purchased the project in Australia. How fast will a kr2S go
with
> 110hp with reduction drive?
> Cheers
>
> Ross Evans
> Brisbane Australia
>
> _
> E-mail just got a whole lot better. New ninemsn Premium. Click here
> http://ninemsn.com.au/premium/landing.asp
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>Building a KR2

[Colin]

Fraser,
You said:
Hi - I am new to this net, so bear with me please!  I am looking for a 
suitable plane to build, and the KR2 of KR2S seems to fit the bill for me 
so far.  Do the current plans available have these later refinements and 
improvements that you mentioned,?  If not, is there a source of these, or 
is it simply that these refinements etc are what individuals have done to 
their planes while building them?
To answer your question, please do not think that I am the authority here, as 
there are some long time builders that have way more knowledge of this aircraft 
than I. I guess I just tend to be alittle more vocal! HaHa.
The KR2 is a wonderful airplane, but a new builder should not consider the 
older KR2 without including the "S" supplement. If you will "cruise" over to 
the KRnet construction site and search through the archives, you will find a 
HUGE amount of information on modifications and improvements that builders have 
made to this little plane.  Also, lots of builders' sites have great ideas and 
improvements that they have made to overcome different building challenges that 
they have experienced.  The KR2S plans are reported to be the clearest and 
easiest to use, as well as the supplement including the refinements of 
re-enforced firewall for larger powerplants, and longer fuselage.  Mark 
Langford's site talks about several good refinements and hiper links you to 
other sources of additional studies and mods.  The original KR2 had a neat idea 
for retracts, but over the years, virtually every builder with them has done 
away with them in favor of a less drag inducing well faired fixed gear, or some 
other version of retract (Loehle Replicas has a good system that swing inboard, 
but requires alot of work to fit onto a KR2).  Also you cannot forget to put 
the gear down on fixed gear!  I had a student recently, over 300 hour pilot 
take me down an instrument approach in a twin engine aircraft and forget the 
landing gear, all the way down to 400 AGL when I took over and lowered the 
gear. If he had been solo that would have been an expensive mistake.
What I recommend is for you to take several afternoons and read through the 
different builder websites and finished aircraft, and learn all you can from 
the ones out there building, or flying.  They know what is working for them, 
and will save you literally hundreds of hours trying to solve problems. Then 
when you have questions, and you can't find the answer in the archives, ask it 
here.  Go to the Gathering this year and look at the KR2, and KR2S up close and 
compare.  I am told the materials cost is virtually the same, and you will be 
much happier with the plane when it is complete.  Any other builders' thoughts 
please don't hesitate to chime in here :)


Colin Rainey KR2(td)
crain...@cfl.rr.com
Sanford, Florida
FLY SAFE

KR>Building a KR2

[Fraser McGregor]

Thanks Colin for that advice - yes I have been looking at the web sites - 
all very interesting.  As I live in Australia - also known as God's Great 
Garden - I might just have to pass on the gathering, but thanks for the 
offer - the old C172 won't go that far.

I just wish all you guys would give your measurements in real terms, ie 
millimeters, kg, Newtons, etc, instead of these ancient english imperial 
things.  Pity you didn' t throw the imperial system overboard with the tea 
in Boston, all those years ago!  Makes my head ache, having to do the 
conversions.  (Please note - last para is my attempt at humour :-))

At 09:39 AM 7/09/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Fraser,
>You said:
>Hi - I am new to this net, so bear with me please!  I am looking for a
>suitable plane to build, and the KR2 of KR2S seems to fit the bill for me
>so far.  Do the current plans available have these later refinements and
>improvements that you mentioned,?  If not, is there a source of these, or
>is it simply that these refinements etc are what individuals have done to
>their planes while building them?
>To answer your question, please do not think that I am the authority here, 
>as there are some long time builders that have way more knowledge of this 
>aircraft than I. I guess I just tend to be alittle more vocal! HaHa.
>The KR2 is a wonderful airplane, but a new builder should not consider the 
>older KR2 without including the "S" supplement. If you will "cruise" over 
>to the KRnet construction site and search through the archives, you will 
>find a HUGE amount of information on modifications and improvements that 
>builders have made to this little plane.  Also, lots of builders' sites 
>have great ideas and improvements that they have made to overcome 
>different building challenges that they have experienced.  The KR2S plans 
>are reported to be the clearest and easiest to use, as well as the 
>supplement including the refinements of re-enforced firewall for larger 
>powerplants, and longer fuselage.  Mark Langford's site talks about 
>several good refinements and hiper links you to other sources of 
>additional studies and mods.  The original KR2 had a neat idea for 
>retracts, but over the years, virtually every builder with them has done 
>away with them in favor of a less drag inducing well faired fixed gear, or 
>some other version of retract (Loehle Replicas has a good system that 
>swing inboard, but requires alot of work to fit onto a KR2).  Also you 
>cannot forget to put the gear down on fixed gear!  I had a student 
>recently, over 300 hour pilot take me down an instrument approach in a 
>twin engine aircraft and forget the landing gear, all the way down to 400 
>AGL when I took over and lowered the gear. If he had been solo that would 
>have been an expensive mistake.
>What I recommend is for you to take several afternoons and read through 
>the different builder websites and finished aircraft, and learn all you 
>can from the ones out there building, or flying.  They know what is 
>working for them, and will save you literally hundreds of hours trying to 
>solve problems. Then when you have questions, and you can't find the 
>answer in the archives, ask it here.  Go to the Gathering this year and 
>look at the KR2, and KR2S up close and compare.  I am told the materials 
>cost is virtually the same, and you will be much happier with the plane 
>when it is complete.  Any other builders' thoughts please don't hesitate 
>to chime in here :)
>
>
>Colin Rainey KR2(td)
>crain...@cfl.rr.com
>Sanford, Florida
>FLY SAFE___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building a KR2

[Mark Langford]

Fraser wrote:

> I just wish all you guys would give your measurements in real terms, ie
> millimeters, kg, Newtons, etc, instead of these ancient english imperial
> things.  Pity you didn' t throw the imperial system overboard with the tea
> in Boston, all those years ago!  Makes my head ache, having to do the
> conversions.

I agree wholeheartedly!  We almost got smart and made the big move to metric
in the seventies, but somehow the effort got side tracked, and we're mired
in the dark ages again.  There's nothing worse than a slug!  I'm 100% for
the move to metric.  I lived in Germany for three years and loved it (and
for many other reasons)...

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML "at"  hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR>Building a KR2

[Barry Kruyssen]

Fraser McGregor, Please contact me of net via email k...@bigpond.com

I've just bought a KR2 in Brisbane

Barry Kruyssen

- Original Message - 
From: "Fraser McGregor" <fa.mcgre...@qut.edu.au>
To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: KR>Building a KR2


> Thanks Colin for that advice - yes I have been looking at the web sites -
> all very interesting.  As I live in Australia - also known as God's Great
> Garden - I might just have to pass on the gathering, but thanks for the
> offer - the old C172 won't go that far.
>
> I just wish all you guys would give your measurements in real terms, ie
> millimeters, kg, Newtons, etc, instead of these ancient english imperial
> things.  Pity you didn' t throw the imperial system overboard with the tea
> in Boston, all those years ago!  Makes my head ache, having to do the
> conversions.  (Please note - last para is my attempt at humour :-))
>
> At 09:39 AM 7/09/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >Fraser,
> >You said:
> >Hi - I am new to this net, so bear with me please!  I am looking for a
> >suitable plane to build, and the KR2 of KR2S seems to fit the bill for me
> >so far.  Do the current plans available have these later refinements and
> >improvements that you mentioned,?  If not, is there a source of these, or
> >is it simply that these refinements etc are what individuals have done to
> >their planes while building them?
> >To answer your question, please do not think that I am the authority
here,
> >as there are some long time builders that have way more knowledge of this
> >aircraft than I. I guess I just tend to be alittle more vocal! HaHa.
> >The KR2 is a wonderful airplane, but a new builder should not consider
the
> >older KR2 without including the "S" supplement. If you will "cruise" over
> >to the KRnet construction site and search through the archives, you will
> >find a HUGE amount of information on modifications and improvements that
> >builders have made to this little plane.  Also, lots of builders' sites
> >have great ideas and improvements that they have made to overcome
> >different building challenges that they have experienced.  The KR2S plans
> >are reported to be the clearest and easiest to use, as well as the
> >supplement including the refinements of re-enforced firewall for larger
> >powerplants, and longer fuselage.  Mark Langford's site talks about
> >several good refinements and hiper links you to other sources of
> >additional studies and mods.  The original KR2 had a neat idea for
> >retracts, but over the years, virtually every builder with them has done
> >away with them in favor of a less drag inducing well faired fixed gear,
or
> >some other version of retract (Loehle Replicas has a good system that
> >swing inboard, but requires alot of work to fit onto a KR2).  Also you
> >cannot forget to put the gear down on fixed gear!  I had a student
> >recently, over 300 hour pilot take me down an instrument approach in a
> >twin engine aircraft and forget the landing gear, all the way down to 400
> >AGL when I took over and lowered the gear. If he had been solo that would
> >have been an expensive mistake.
> >What I recommend is for you to take several afternoons and read through
> >the different builder websites and finished aircraft, and learn all you
> >can from the ones out there building, or flying.  They know what is
> >working for them, and will save you literally hundreds of hours trying to
> >solve problems. Then when you have questions, and you can't find the
> >answer in the archives, ask it here.  Go to the Gathering this year and
> >look at the KR2, and KR2S up close and compare.  I am told the materials
> >cost is virtually the same, and you will be much happier with the plane
> >when it is complete.  Any other builders' thoughts please don't hesitate
> >to chime in here :)
> >
> >
> >Colin Rainey KR2(td)
> >crain...@cfl.rr.com
> >Sanford, Florida
> >FLY SAFE___
> >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>Building a KR2

[bill kirkland]

Mark; The instruments on my 150 are calibrated in Roman Numerals
W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND
wkirkl...@rogers.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" <n5...@hiwaay.net>
To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Building a KR2
M://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building a KR2

[Serge F. Vidal]

My 2 cents worth as an historian:
They could not throw the imperial system overboard with the tea in Boston,
'cause we, Frenchmen, had not invented the scientific replacement yet. The
Metric system came only with OUR revolution, only a few years down the line.
Of couse, later, the Metric system was made the basis of the International
System of Measures, and is therefore, today, the ONLY system with
international recognition (even the British have discarded the Imperial Body
Parts system).
Alas, at the end of WWII, aviation in the Western world has to regress to US
standards. But the Russian world abides the IS system, ant their aircraft
fly altitudes in meters, and speeds in kilometers per hour. I got my
microlight licence in a Russian built Aviatika "Baby Mig" that was just like
that... and I had to think fast in the air to convert!

Now, while waiting for a Federal miracle Do as I do, get yourself a nice
piece of converter software.  ;-)

Serge Vidal
KR2 ZS-WEC
Tunis, Tunisia

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Fraser McGregor
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:20 PM
To: KR builders and pilots
Subject: Re: KR>Building a KR2


Thanks Colin for that advice - yes I have been looking at the web sites -
all very interesting.  As I live in Australia - also known as God's Great
Garden - I might just have to pass on the gathering, but thanks for the
offer - the old C172 won't go that far.

I just wish all you guys would give your measurements in real terms, ie
millimeters, kg, Newtons, etc, instead of these ancient english imperial
things.  Pity you didn' t throw the imperial system overboard with the tea
in Boston, all those years ago!  Makes my head ache, having to do the
conversions.  (Please note - last para is my attempt at humour :-))

At 09:39 AM 7/09/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Fraser,
>You said:
>Hi - I am new to this net, so bear with me please!  I am looking for a
>suitable plane to build, and the KR2 of KR2S seems to fit the bill for me
>so far.  Do the current plans available have these later refinements and
>improvements that you mentioned,?  If not, is there a source of these, or
>is it simply that these refinements etc are what individuals have done to
>their planes while building them?
>To answer your question, please do not think that I am the authority here,
>as there are some long time builders that have way more knowledge of this
>aircraft than I. I guess I just tend to be alittle more vocal! HaHa.
>The KR2 is a wonderful airplane, but a new builder should not consider the
>older KR2 without including the "S" supplement. If you will "cruise" over
>to the KRnet construction site and search through the archives, you will
>find a HUGE amount of information on modifications and improvements that
>builders have made to this little plane.  Also, lots of builders' sites
>have great ideas and improvements that they have made to overcome
>different building challenges that they have experienced.  The KR2S plans
>are reported to be the clearest and easiest to use, as well as the
>supplement including the refinements of re-enforced firewall for larger
>powerplants, and longer fuselage.  Mark Langford's site talks about
>several good refinements and hiper links you to other sources of
>additional studies and mods.  The original KR2 had a neat idea for
>retracts, but over the years, virtually every builder with them has done
>away with them in favor of a less drag inducing well faired fixed gear, or
>some other version of retract (Loehle Replicas has a good system that
>swing inboard, but requires alot of work to fit onto a KR2).  Also you
>cannot forget to put the gear down on fixed gear!  I had a student
>recently, over 300 hour pilot take me down an instrument approach in a
>twin engine aircraft and forget the landing gear, all the way down to 400
>AGL when I took over and lowered the gear. If he had been solo that would
>have been an expensive mistake.
>What I recommend is for you to take several afternoons and read through
>the different builder websites and finished aircraft, and learn all you
>can from the ones out there building, or flying.  They know what is
>working for them, and will save you literally hundreds of hours trying to
>solve problems. Then when you have questions, and you can't find the
>answer in the archives, ask it here.  Go to the Gathering this year and
>look at the KR2, and KR2S up close and compare.  I am told the materials
>cost is virtually the same, and you will be much happier with the plane
>when it is complete.  Any other builders' thoughts please don't hesitate
>to chime in here :)
>
>
>Colin Rainey KR2(td)
>crain...@cfl.rr.com
>Sanford, Florida
>FLY SAFE___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building a KR-2

[larry severson]

Look out. There are no kits, as you think of them. I will finish my plane, but!
Everything that I have ordered has come with inadequate instruction and 
needing significant work and non-standard tools.
You need access to a complete machine shop AND an EAA designee who will 
help a lot.
I have become disgusted with even the best of the suppliers. Right now, I 
have to go out and find a 3/8 inch ream because the engine mount that I 
ordered was poorly welded, and I can't get an AN6 bolt through it. My plane 
would be ready to fly now, if I could get parts that actually did as 
advertized.


At 01:26 PM 8/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>   I'm thinking about building a kr-2. Looking for somebody in or around
>Connecticut who is building or has one. I'd like to see one before I 
>purchase A
>kit. Thanks
>   Dan
>
>___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR>Building a KR-2

[Dan Heath]

RE:  
Look out. There are no kits, as you think of them. I will finish my plane,
but!
Everything that I have ordered has come with inadequate instruction and
needing significant work and non-standard tools.



Larry,

I get disgusted also, but the picture isn't as black as all that.  There are
suppliers who do supply good parts.  You just have to learn who to buy from
and who not to buy from.  If you ask on the net BEFOR you buy, then you can
usually get a good source for most anything you want.

True, if you want to build everything yourself, you have to be a mechanic, a
welder, a machinist, a plastic bubble maker, and many other crafts that most
people do not possess.

You have to know your talents and pick and choose what to buy and what to
make.

I have  a motor mount on this KR and had one on the first KR and had no
problems with either of them.  But spent several months trying to figure out
how to attach and make seat belt attach fittings.  Yes, it can be
frustrating, but sure is a lot of fun.

And another thing, if you like sports cars, you will love flying a KR.  I
know because I flew one for 6 years and had a blast doing it.

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Building a KR-2

[larry severson]

>
>I get disgusted also, but the picture isn't as black as all that.  There are
>suppliers who do supply good parts.  You just have to learn who to buy from
>and who not to buy from.  If you ask on the net BEFOR you buy, then you can
>usually get a good source for most anything you want.

I have bought only from highly regarded, by the KRNet, suppliers and found 
missing parts, unfinished work, parts that don't fit, etc.

>I have  a motor mount on this KR and had one on the first KR and had no
>problems with either of them.  But spent several months trying to figure out
>how to attach and make seat belt attach fittings.  Yes, it can be
>frustrating, but sure is a lot of fun.

The motor mount came with no instructions. The openings are loose for AN5 
bolts, but AN6 WILL NOT GO IN without reaming. This means that I need to 
spend days trying to find a 3/8" ream.




>And another thing, if you like sports cars, you will love flying a KR.  I
>know because I flew one for 6 years and had a blast doing it.
>

I am a military trained pilot with 14,000 hours. I also have studied 
aeronautics in college. I know what a well built KR2 is capable of. This is 
why I intend to find a way to finish the plane, but I stand by my complaint 
that the suppliers are the reason that 85% of builders do not finish. It is 
scarry that the best are this sloppy. Or, maybe, no one else has gotten 
consistently poor parts with no QC and little documentation! I have not 
received a single part from any supplier that did not require grinding, 
re-taping, or parts additions, even when I bought a series of supposedly 
compatible components.

See you in Red Oak - 2003
I wish I could be there, but my plane is not moving forward rapidly. I 
spend 95% of my building time trying to fix bad parts.

Larry Severson
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
(714) 968-9852
lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR>Building a KR

[skp...@charter.net]

Just a note,

I am building my KR in a different sequence than standard. 
 I am building small parts, hardware, and whatever items I 
can think of.  ALL prior to building the boat.  I am also 
keeping a sharp pencil on items as I estimate, price and 
order.  Maybe one day it will be available to future 
builders.  I believe I spent 40 hours just estimating 
aluminum angle. (ending up with 3.5" x 4" to build most 
parts.) But that is what I enjoy doing.  When I build my 
boat hopefully I will be able to just bolt on parts as if 
they came out of a KIT.  This ain't my first rodeo...  The 
one thing I can't find in this town is someone to print 
out the 5048/5046 airfoils. Maybe Mark can help me with 
that.  In all truth I have to build a storage shed to put 
all the stuff in from the garage before I can take on the 
larger item.

Building parts
Staying current in Auburn AL.
Steven Phillabaum
skp...@charter.net

KR>Building a KR-2

[kidicaru...@aol.com]

  I'm thinking about building a kr-2. Looking for somebody in or around 
Connecticut who is building or has one. I'd like to see one before I purchase A 
kit. Thanks
  Dan

KR>Building a KR-2

[Raymond Hightower]

I live in Texas.  I'm planning to buy a flyable because I don't want to wait a 
year to fly it.

kidicaru...@aol.com wrote:I'm thinking about building a kr-2. Looking for 
somebody in or around 
Connecticut who is building or has one. I'd like to see one before I purchase A 
kit. Thanks
Dan

___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


-
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

KR>Building a KR-2

[Robert Stone]

Dan,
 Build a KR-2S rather than a KR-2.  The KR-2S is an improvement over the
KR-2 and much more stable in flight.  I built and flew a KR-2 years ago when
the "S" did not exist but if I were building today it would definitely be
the KR-2S.

Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX
rsto...@hot.rr.com


- Original Message - 
From: <kidicaru...@aol.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 12:26 PM
Subject: KR>Building a KR-2


>   I'm thinking about building a kr-2. Looking for somebody in or around
> Connecticut who is building or has one. I'd like to see one before I
purchase A
> kit. Thanks
>   Dan
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>Building a KR-2

[Dan Heath]

RE:  Build a KR-2S rather than a KR-2. The KR-2S is an improvement 



I agree.  If I were starting today, it would be an S.  I see no reason to
build the 2 when the 2S is available except that it does seem to be a bit
slower given the same power plant. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>Building a KR2(S) as a UK microlight.

[Architectural Engineering LTD]

Hi,
Does anyone know if a KR2 or a KR2S could be built within the CAA?s
microlight definition (basically MAUW 450Kg or less (990lb) and [a stall
speed of 32 Statute mph] or [a max wing loading of 25Kg/m2 (
5.11lb/ft2)]? Changing to a smaller or 2-stroke engine would be OK.
Cheers,
Tim Walker.

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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KR>Building a KR2(S) as a UK microlight.

[Ron Freiberger]

I think the stall speed you propose would be very difficult to achieve.
The current wing area spec is a bit optimistic. And includes the fuselage,
which is a little bit of a stretch for 100% effectiveness.

Ron Freiberger
mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com

 -Original Message-
From:   krnet-bounces+rfreiberger=swfla.rr@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+rfreiberger=swfla.rr@mylist.net]  On Behalf Of
Architectural Engineering LTD
Sent:   Thursday, February 13, 2003 4:08 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject:KR>Building a KR2(S) as a UK microlight.

Hi,
Does anyone know if a KR2 or a KR2S could be built within the CAA's
microlight definition (basically MAUW 450Kg or less (990lb) and [a stall
speed of 32 Statute mph] or [a max wing loading of 25Kg/m2 (
5.11lb/ft2)]? Changing to a smaller or 2-stroke engine would be OK.
Cheers,
Tim Walker.

---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 10/06/2003

___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR>Building a KR2(S) as a UK microlight.

[Dan Heath]

You might want to search the archives on this.  It has been discussed at
great length.  You are probably better off to get a microlight. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

---Original Message---

From: KR builders and pilots
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2003 4:07:40 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>Building a KR2(S) as a UK microlight.

Hi,
Does anyone know if a KR2 or a KR2S could be built within the CAA’s
microlight definition (basically MAUW 450Kg or less (990lb) and [a stall
speed of 32 Statute mph] or [a max wing loading of 25Kg/m2 (
5.11lb/ft2)]? Changing to a smaller or 2-stroke engine would be OK.
Cheers,
Tim Walker.

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 10/06/2003

___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
.