[lace] Pillow stands (was: larger pillows)
Tamara's reference to the Table-mate reminds me of a question I'd been meaning to ask: The Table-mate available on Amazon UK has a usable surface 22 wde by 16.75 deep, so my 18/20/22 pillows would overhang the back of the table. Given that once bobbins are hung in the weight of the pillow is more at the front of the pillow than the back, would one of these tables be stable with a large pillow on? Has anyone tried one and found out? (And what might happen when my fairly heavy young cat jumps onto the back of the pillow to help? Though ending up on the floor under a fairly heavy pillow a couple of times should cure even Silly Sid of leaping before he looks!) Beth Cheshire, UK I am short, too -- 5'2 -- but love big pillows because of all that room to spread the bobbins (even 12 pairs can use some room to breathe g). What I've learnt is that, if the pillow sits really low, I can bend over it at the hips, rather than at the waist, which gives me an extra 3-4 of reach. This has another advantage as well -- my arms don't get as tired working, because they're fairly close to my lap (the most restful position), instead of being raised. But, of course, that means having the pillow sitting on an adjustable stand, not at a standard height table. It's one of the resaons that I'm reluctant to go to workshops which are beyond a sensible driving range (8-10hrs maximum); my large Table-mate would not travel well on a plane (and neither would a large pillow, any more) Tamara P Duvall - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Felt on big pillows
Sue Do you know what density the felt you use is? I've been gogling for engineering felt suppliers nearer here, and they all seem to stock a range of different densities as well as different thicknesses. I reckon the density will be fairly important for lacemaking use - too dense and fine pins won't go into it without bending, too lightweight and it won't support the pins well enough. I've spotted one UK supplier whose website proclaims no order too small so if I can work out what density I need I'll enquire about their prices. Happy lacemaking everyone Beth Sue Fink wrote: Diane Z asked about the felt I use on my pillow. Our understanding is that it is used by engineers and in car engines, but don't ask me more than that!! It is about 1 cm thick and 2 metres wide and you buy the length you want as you would material. It is expensive, but because it is so wide several of us usually buy together and so get a piece that we can afford! In NZ it comes from NZ Felt Supplies Ltd., but I have no idea where it would be available in other countries. We use it on our pillows and find it is just so easy to move lace; it also protects the pillows and lets them live longer. It does need something under it to support it, which is why we still use pillows! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Lace making equipment? 19th Century on ebay
They must have overheard your conversation, Jean - the listing now describes them as 19th century boot studs! Beth in a rainy Cheshire, NW England On Tuesday 05 May 2009, Jean Nathan wrote: Listed as: Lace making equipment? 19th Century Item number 370197426194 http://tinyurl.com/c2afhn There's no scale, but I showed this to DH, and his immediate reaction was the same as mine - studs for old -fashioned leather football (soccer) boots. What will they come up with next as equipment for lacemaking? Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] ends
Hello Nancy For short lengths of thread, it's usually as quick to wind the bobbins by hand as to use a winder. Unfortunately there's no really quick way to wind a large number of bobbins. Your next square probably will turn out better than the first - you'll have learnt so much from doing the first one, and you'll be more confident handling the bobbins and tensioning the threads. Whether the thread ends really need darning in depends on the thread used, and what use the piece is going to be put to - if the thread is springy and slippery (so knots can't be trusted to stay tightly knotted), or the lace is likely to need regular laundering, it really needs those darns. But if you've made it with a fine soft thread that the knots will really bite on, and it's never (or hardly ever) going to need cleaning you can probably get away with not darning them in - the darning/glue is only there to make sure the threads don't wriggle out of the knots and unravel part of the lace. Beth you wrote: So you have to darn the ends in as well as do a sewing? Ooops! Oh well never mind it is my first attempt at a square so I guess that is ok. I am preparing to start another square so maybe that one will go better. There are 35 pairs. Is there a quick way of loading the bobbins. I do have a bobbin winder but as there is not a lot of thread to go on the bobbins in the first place I dont know if it would make it any faster than doing it by hand. Will it? As to the missed joins in my piece that would be good if I could fix some of that. Thanks very much for your advice. Nancy - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] ends
Hello Nancy Yes, a sewing is the correct way to join the two ends, and knotting them after the sewing is usually a good idea. If you're going to darn in the ends, cut the pairs off leaving a nice, long end to thread into your darning needle - you only need to darn in about half an inch (maybe less on a fine-thread lace - I often only do about a quarter-inch). If you intend to glue the knots to save the hassle of darning in the ends (some of us are nowhere near as neat with a sewing needle as we are with our bobbins...), cut the threads as close to the knots as you dare! I'm not sure how well glue would hold/look for the missed joins in the work - If there are several adjacent pinholes with missed joins it would probably look better to either oversew the edges together or (the traditional way to join two pieces of lace) pin the sections to be joined back onto your pillow and use a pair of bobbins to work sewings between them. I'm not sure I can manage to describe how to do this in words alone - a diagram would be much easier to follow - can anyone else explain how to do it? Beth in a rainy Cheshire, NW England - my garden is getting a much needed drink today (but I will probably have to go slug-hunting tonight, or all my seedlings will have disappeared by tomorrow) Nancy wrote: Talking about glue, darning and knots! The square that I did recently I did a 'sewing' to join the pieces together at the end. Was that the right thing to do or should I have done something different? I then did a couple of knots to be on the safe side. How close could I have then cut the knot? Obviously not glue but darning and if so, how? Can I use glue to join pieces of the lace together that should have been together in the pattern but somehow or other arent? There are a couple of places in my square where I could see that it should have joined on to another bit but is just hanging loose! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] thread and how much?
Hello Lynda Welcome to Arachne Lynda wrote: Im a new lurker on the group and just love all the emails and information - I have a question - is there anyway to work out how much thread to put on your bobbins when doing a pattern? There's no definitive method for working out how much thread a pattern will take - it depends on the stitches being used (passive threads travel further in a half stitch motif than in a cloth stitch one, for instance), and whether the workers stay the same throughout or keep swapping to passives. For a small torchon piece (eg a bookmark) where the workers don't change, the rule of thumb I've heard quoted is 4 times the length of the piece on each passive thread, and a couple of yards on each worker. Does anyone else have a way of estimating how much thread they'll need? My problem isn't so much how much to wind on each bobbin, but how to work out how many reels of thread a BIG project (tablecloth edging or large mat) will need (I tend to make long edgings so I fill all the bobbins as full as possible to reduce the number of times I have to bring in a new thread while working). Happy Lacemaking! Beth in a bright spring morning in Cheshire (NW England) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Schneeberger Lace
I'm sure someone with more knowledge of German pronunciation than I have will answer soon, but as far as I can remember from the long-distant (pre-1980) days when I learnt/used German schnee is pronounced as shnay. Beth Cheshire, NW England On Wednesday 22 April 2009, Diane Haber wrote: Dear Lacers, I have a question that I hope you can help me with. I've started doing Schneeberger lace and I really enjoy it. I was pronouncing it with a long e sound when someone told me I should be saying it as Schnayberger but then someone else disagreed. So I appeal to you, which is the right way? Thanks, Diane Crystal Lake, IL - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Thread choices questions
Brenda wrote: I have been asked which threads I think lacemakers would most like to have available. I know my choices, but they are possibly not yours! So; Q1, If all sizes and all colours were available which fibre (silk, cotton, linen or rayon) would you be most likely to choose for a, hankie edging - cotton b, table mat/doiley - probably cotton, as the easiest to launder, or maybe linen c, collar - depends what I want to wear it with, cotton or linen or silk (but never rayon, I can't bear to wear anything like rayon, it feels horrid against my skin). d, wall hanging - whatever I found first in the right colour and thickness e, cushion cover - probably linen as first choice f, baby dress trimming - cotton (for ease of washing/softness) or maybe silk for a christening outfit g, pictorial piece to be framed - no preference (would depend on the piece) h, scarf - Wool, preferably (I wear scarves for warmth, not beauty!), although silk/linen/cotton might be nice too Q2, If a new range of coloured linen became available would you like it to be: a, about 40 wraps/cm - fine enough for point ground b, about 30 wraps/cm - similar thickness to DMC Special Dentelles 80 (tatting cotton) c, about 22 wraps/cm - similar to most perle 12 d, about 14 wraps/cm - similar to most perle 8 e, about 11 wraps/cm - similar to most perle 5 f, thicker than any of these a and b (in that order of preference) - there are plenty of coloured threads available in the thicker sizes (which I rarely (in the case of c) or never use), but very little fine, coloured linen (I think Goldschild/Londonderry is the only one, and I have to get that sent from outside the UK) That's my two-pennyworth, now to read all the other replies! Beth in a sunny, breezy Cheshire spring - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Holding bobbins by the spangle
I think I know why picking up bobbins by the spangle is - from a conservation point of view - a no-no. Over the last couple of years I've had an ever increasing number of spangles break while working - at first I thought it was just on a few bobbins I'd spangled with finer than usual wire, but then other bobbins (including ones I'd bought ready spangled) started to shed their spangles. It really had me puzzled - the only common factor was that the bobbins had all been in fairly regular use since the 1980's - until I caught myself picking a bobbin up by the spangles! I realised that the problem started just after I'd changed from using crocheted elastic bobbin holders (slipped over the heads of the bobbins) to laces slipped through the spangles and tied up - the extra tension on the spangles had, over time, snapped some of the weaker wires and pulled apart the joins on others. Similarly, if a bobbin is regularly picked up by the spangle while working, eventually the tension on the wire could lead to it breaking, particularly if acids from sweaty hands trigger corrosion of the wire. I don't think it ought to stop those who can't comfortably handle bobbins by the shaft making lace - it takes a long time to break a spangle, and spangles can be replaced/rewired when they break - but it might be a good idea to watch out for damaged wires and respangle the bobbin before it breaks (I've had several go while working and its a real pain scrabbling around the floor trying to find the beads which have fallen off!, not to mention the difficulty of carrying on with one unspangled bobbin) Beth in a sunny, spring-like Cheshire, NW England with several spangles to repair before winding the bobbins for my next project. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Old bobbins, Teaching
Reading Liz's story of the student with a learning difficulty, I think maybe sometimes it's not the fault of the tutor or the student when the student doesn't understand - it may just be that the class format isn't right for that particular student. Beth in a showery Cheshire, NW England Elizabeth Ligeti wrote: Carol said 'If a student doesn't understand anything, it is NOT the fault of the student - it is yours as the tutor, and you must go away and find words to express what you want that are comprehensible to said student.' I had a student, some years ago, who admitted she had a big learning difficulty, so needed a One-to-one teacher. She could not cope with a class, as she dropped too far behind. She said she would need each lesson 2 or 3 times over, but she really wanted to learn. Well, I agreed to teach her, - and it was a challenge to find different ways to explain things to her, but she mastered it, - and then taught her daughter to make lace, too!!! It just took a lot of patience - for both of us, and I had to think things from a different perspective, sometimes, but it was Verysatisfying when eventually the penny dropped, and she understood what was what!!! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Lace teachers
I don't think a lacemaker ever gets too proficient for classes - as Jacquie says there are always new laces to learn, or more challenging patterns to try. If a class loses it's more experienced pupils from boredom, that probably says as much about the teacher/class structure as losing beginners because they can't grasp the basics... In the class I go to some of us have been making lace for more than a quarter-century, we don't need help every week but we do use the teacher for inspiration, ideas and for help with new techniques or lace types. And a sprinkling of more experienced lacemakers in the class can sometimes help the newbies with minor problems/questions so they don't spend too much precious class time waiting for the teacher (who, however good she is, still has only one pair of hands and eyes and can't sort out 5 or 6 people's different needs simultaneously). My first teacher used to spread her beginners round the class, sitting each one next to someone who would be able/willing to help them when she was busy with someone else. Mind you, teaching lace must be one of the most difficult jobs going - pupils with different starting levels, different likes/interests and different learning speeds means each pupil has to be given individual attention/tuition yet (at least in local authority classes) class numbers have to be fairly high to secure the continuation of the class. Hats off to all of you for helping the rest of us learn this beautiful/addictive craft. Beth in Cheshire, NW England PS does anyone know a supplier for the starting finishing in torchon/beds/bucks books someone mentioned recently - they sound like something I ought to have for reference. Jaquie wrote: I have people that I have been teaching in private classes for over twenty years. They started perhaps with Torchon, did Beds, Bucks, Honiton, Milanese as the fancy took them. As they have got older and their eye sight no longer allows them to do the finer lace they have changed to some of the courser ones - Russian, Chrysanthemum, Cantu, bigger scale, more unusual Torchon designs. Add in Christmas decorations, the patterns they bring from lacedays and new books and want help with, the patterns they want to design or adapt and there is plenty of new learning for them. I don't find anything strange in this as I have been learning lace for over thirty years and still feel there is loads out there that I don't know. I don't believe there will ever come a time when I know everything there is to know about bobbin lacemaking, so why shouldn't my students feel the same. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] coloured linen thread
Oops! Reading this message from Brenda I realised I'd got my Nm and Nel numbers mixed up and I've ordered 5 spools of Goldschild 50/3 (Nm 30/3) when I meant to order the 24 wraps/cm Nm 50/3 (80/3)! Anyone know how many wraps/cm the 50/3 (Nm 30/3) is? It isn't in edition 4 of threads for lace and I can't connect to the addendum page for some reason! And is the French pattern (one of the latest set from Retournac museum) likely to be referring to Nm or Nel when it calls for 50/3 linen? Beth busy playing with tracing paper trying to adapt a corner to make a square motif to fit inside the matching edging. On Monday 06 April 2009, Brenda Paternoster wrote: Finding coloured linen is difficult! If you can't get Bockens 60/2 which is 26 wraps/cm the nearest in colour is either Moravia 40/2 at 22 wraps/cm so thicker, or Goldschild 80/3 (Nm 50/3) which is 24 wraps /cm To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Lace teachers
Thanks to all who've shared their experiences of lace teaching and/or lace teachers. I've had two very different lace teachers for regular classes: I was lucky enough to start with Marie Kell in Leeds back in the early 80's. Marie used a progression of patterns, each one introducing a new technique or techniques, each with written instructions so we could carry on at home until we found a difficult bit or something we didn't understand. That way, I always came to the next class knowing what I needed explained or demonstrated. Once a student had mastered the basics of torchon, she would suggest it was time to try beds then maybe bucks point, and so on. As one became more proficient, we were given more choice of patterns/techniques to move on to. I only had about 18 months in Marie's class before we moved to the other side of the country, but by then she'd taught me enough to be able to carry on with the help of books. Which was just as well, because family commitments and lack of transport meant I didn't have chance to go to lace classes for about another 10 years! When I did join another class it was more for company and inspiration than for the teaching as I'd got used to working things out from books. My current teacher is a lovely person, a wonderful lacemaker (when she gets chance to make any lace of her own) and a great source of ideas and patterns, but when it comes to teaching beginners... No written instructions/diagrams (so practice at home is limited to what they can remember without) or suggestions for a book to refer to, not much order or progression in the choice of patterns (so students miss out on some of the basic techniques) and she demonstrates things so fast most of us can't see how they were done... some students attempt patterns way beyond their skills and get discouraged, others never attempt anything beyond the simplest torchon - and some of those never learn to start, finish or turn a simple corner unaided (those who do learn are the ones who've found a good book or two to use between classes). We've also lost a fair few beginners by the wayside (I know of at least one ex-pupil who still wants to have another go at lacemaking, but not with that teacher). We're a private class, but with a slightly unusual set up - it's the students who do all the organisation and pay the room hire and the teacher (we work out the total cost for the term and divide it by the number of people who've signed up). Our numbers have dropped to the point where we can probably no longer afford the teacher, but I suspect some of us will find it very difficult to carry on lacemaking as part of a mutual-help group because, even after 10 or 15 years they still lack the knowledge/confidence to work independently. I can't help wondering whether if J's teaching skills had been as good as her lacemaking ones we might actually still have a viable class - and at least if we were too few to continue we could carry on by ourselves. Beth in North West England --- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Spanish lace
!Hola, Mari Carmen! Bienvenida en la lista email Arachne (Welcome to the Arachne email list) A mi tambien me gustaria ver libros sobre el encaje tradicional de Espana ( Itoo would like to see books about Spanish traditional lace) Y a mi tambien me encanto los folletos de Galicia (I loved the booklets from Galicia too) !Hasta Pronto! (Let's hear from you soon) Beth en Cheshire, Inglaterra (England) soy inglesa pero aprendo espanol desde hace dos anos y media Mari Carmen wrote: I am new to this list and have a question. Â My name is Mari Carmen and I live in Minnesota (the Twin Cities). I am interested in bobbin lace, especially interested in learning more about traditional Spanish lace. Â I'm looking for any recommended books, classes, instructions, etc. Â I've been making torchon lace edgings for grand daughter dresses, which I smock and embroider, for about 10 years and want to expand my abilities in bobbin lace making. Â Any recommendations? Â Thank you to everyone! Especially to Carolina de la Guardia, with whom I've already communicated. I loved the booklets from Galicia!! Â - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL)
Hello Alice I'll second Anita's recommendation - the newbie in our lace glass got the Dye/Thunder Beginner's Guide... for Christmas after the end of her first term and reappeared for the first class in January with one bookmark from it finished and the next one started (there are people in the class who have been learning with our teacher for many years and still don't know how to start off a simple torchon pattern, never mind finish off a piece unaided...). The book is beautifully presented - gorgeously attractive to look at - and has loads of clear photos to illustrate the instructions, wonderful for students who find a wordy explanation difficult to see. I like Ruth's copy so much I bought my own, just in case I ever need to teach a beginner the basics... Beth In a wonderfully warm, sunny Cheshire (UK) spring afternoon. Alas, my gardening trousers are in the wardrobe and the decorator has shoved a chest of drawers in front of it while he papers the walls so I'm not out there weeding and planting seeds. -- Forwarded Message -- Subject: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL) Date: Tuesday 31 March 2009 From: purple lacer purplelace...@hotmail.com To: lacel...@verizon.net, lace@arachne.com Alice,I picked up Gillian Dye Adrienne Thunder's new book Beginner's Guide to Bobbin Lace at the IOLI convention last summer. My first impression was that it could be a great book for beginners. I haven't read it cover to cover yet but it has tons of great pictures. And at $20 it is a great buy! It is certainly more of a beginner book than Torchon Lace Workbook (which doesn't have pictures for the basic cross and twist movements that beginners w/o a teacher need). Anita HansenCedar Rapids, Iowa Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 11:33:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Alice Howell lacel...@verizon.net Subject: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL) NEW QUESTION The beginner teaching book we have used for many years in this area (Torchon Lace Workbook) is no longer available at a decent price from any source. I need a new (easily available) beginner book for new students so they can have a reference on hand. What book do you use with, or recommend to, your students? Thanks, Alice in Oregon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL)
In my particular teacher's case I've always thought it was just down to being rather haphazard in her lesson planning (or possibly lack of planning?), but maybe she's being craftier than we realised... Beth On Wednesday 01 April 2009, Carol wrote: Hi Beth et al, With reference to those who, after several terms (years?) of classes in Lace-Making cannot start or finish their lace, I was told that my approach to teaching Bobbin Lace-Making was entirely wrong, in that I did actually teach people to start their lace, and to complete it.I was told that I was foolish, as the object of the lessons was 'bums on seats' and, if I didn't tell people how to start and how to finish, then they would have to keep attending the classes! This from an eminent lace teacher several years ago! I was not happy with that idea, and have gone my own way ever since - but it does sometimes make me wonder how wide-spread this thinking is, in some teachers. Carol - in Suffolk UK - Original Message - From: Beth Marshall b...@capuchin.co.uk To: lace@arachne.com; lacel...@verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, April 01, 2009 3:40 PM Subject: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL) Hello Alice I'll second Anita's recommendation - the newbie in our lace glass got the Dye/Thunder Beginner's Guide... for Christmas after the end of her first term and reappeared for the first class in January with one bookmark from it finished and the next one started (there are people in the class who have been learning with our teacher for many years and still don't know how to start off a simple torchon pattern, never mind finish off a piece unaided...). The book is beautifully presented - gorgeously attractive to look at - and has loads of clear photos to illustrate the instructions, wonderful for students who find a wordy explanation difficult to see. I like Ruth's copy so much I bought my own, just in case I ever need to teach a beginner the basics... Beth In a wonderfully warm, sunny Cheshire (UK) spring afternoon. Alas, my gardening trousers are in the wardrobe and the decorator has shoved a chest of drawers in front of it while he papers the walls so I'm not out there weeding and planting seeds. -- Forwarded Message -- Subject: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL) Date: Tuesday 31 March 2009 From: purple lacer purplelace...@hotmail.com To: lacel...@verizon.net, lace@arachne.com Alice,I picked up Gillian Dye Adrienne Thunder's new book Beginner's Guide to Bobbin Lace at the IOLI convention last summer. My first impression was that it could be a great book for beginners. I haven't read it cover to cover yet but it has tons of great pictures. And at $20 it is a great buy! It is certainly more of a beginner book than Torchon Lace Workbook (which doesn't have pictures for the basic cross and twist movements that beginners w/o a teacher need). Anita HansenCedar Rapids, Iowa Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 11:33:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Alice Howell lacel...@verizon.net Subject: [lace] Re: beginner book (was describe BL) NEW QUESTION The beginner teaching book we have used for many years in this area (Torchon Lace Workbook) is no longer available at a decent price from any source. I need a new (easily available) beginner book for new students so they can have a reference on hand. What book do you use with, or recommend to, your students? Thanks, Alice in Oregon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] fillings
Hi Wendy I haven't done much honiton, but for what I have done I've pricked the fillings before starting - I used the more traditional method of making a copy of the pricking on clear acetate (I used overhead projector slide film, I believe some people use used, washed, X-Ray film), place this over the main pricking and prick through it into the filling areas. Regards Beth taking a break from clearing moss off the patio in a sunny Cheshire, NW England Sue Babbs wrote: It would seem quite reasonable to me to do as you suggest. I would then either make a photocopy of the new pricking or cover it with blue plastic so that you don't have any raw edges of the pattern to catch with the thread. Sue - Original Message - Hi All I was just reading through the Lace guld Honiton book and reading how the filling patterns are done, I know at the moment I am jumping the gun as I have a while yet before I get to a pattern with fillings but my question is. Is it possible to cut out the middle of the pricking where the filling will go before you put it on the backing card and then place the filling pattern under it, so then you have the complete pattern on the pillow at the begining. Little things that go through my mind. So glad you are out there to help. Thanks. Wendy St Dogmaels - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Patterns from Retournac - and a thread question
Dear fellow-lacemakers The latest set of patterns from the Retournac Museum (set 22) is now out - my (subscription) copy arrived this week. You can see them on the museum website: http://www.ville-retournac.fr (look for the flag symbol if you need the English-language version) on the boutique/shop page. There is an absolutely beautiful Cluny edging and matching insertion (pattern nos. 12345 and 12344 with raised tallies); as I'm just finishing off my current piece of torchon, I'm planning to tackle these next. Which brings me to the thread question: the pattern sheet suggests 50/3 linen for these; Threads for Lace has three 50/3 linens listed: Barbour, Bockens Pellavia, all at 20 or 21 wraps/cm which is about the same as Fresia 40/2 linen which I already have. How much difference to the finished appearance/texture would it make to use the two-ply Fresia instead of a 3-ply linen? Also does anyone know how many of the three 50/3 linens are still available, and which UK suppliers are likely to stock them? Regards Beth in a rather chilly Cheshire, NW England - minus 5 deg C forecast for tonight, hope none of my plants gets killed. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Washing hankeys
I have a couple of hankies with narrow beds lace edgings (beginner's pieces really - doing a whole hankie rather than a short sample gave me the necessary practice at leaf tallies) which I have always used and machine-washed - they don't come up quite as crisp as they originally were, but if ironed carefully when slightly damp they look fine. I always put hand-made lace into a net bag before putting it in the washer, to protect it from snags and getting pulled out of shape. The little ones that used to come with boxes of washing-powder in tablet form are a very convenient size for hankies! (Do washing tablets still come with net bags? I went back to using powder, and someone has thrown out most of my net bags...) Beth in Cheshire (NW England) where spring is definitely in the air Alex Stillwell wrote: While I would not recommend using a wahing machine for hand-made lace I think we worry too much about the effects of hand washing. The most important rules are 1 Do not stretch or drag the lace. 2 Be careful which washing agent you use. Most will destroy cotton, linen and silk within 20 years or so. 3 Lift out of the water usung some sort of support, e.g. a piece of old white sheeting - again this is so there is no stretching. 4 Press carefull, making sure the point of the iron does not catch in the lace and drag or tear it. Use your lace. It was always made to be worn and white thread lace should stand up to washing. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: hanky sizes
I reckon the size of centre you need depends on two things: 1) the width of the lace edging to be put round it and 2) how the hanky is intended to be used A wide edging will need a smaller centre than a narrow one, otherwise the whole hanky including wide edge would be inconveniently wide. I hope you're not going to allow anyone to blow there nose on your precious lace, but a hanky which is to be purely decorative dosn't really need much centre fabric - if the lace looks right on the fabric that's all that matters - whereas if you're intended to use it to elegantly wipe away tears at weddings and funerals you'll need a fair sized piece of nice soft fabric in the centre to absorb the tears... IIRR most people reckon on an overall width (including the lace) of between 6 and 10 (about 15cm to 25cm for those who think in metric) for a lady's hankie. Why not try playing with a photocopy/scan of the pricking and a couple of sheets of paper - fit copies together to get the whole hanky pricking with a blank space in the middle, then try it with and extra pattern repeat (or more then one if it's a short repeat) in the sides and see which looks more balanced between lace and centre? Have fun! Beth In Cheshire, enjoying some early spring sunshine On Thursday 12 March 2009, Sue wrote: I am playing nice at the moment making up an edge for a hanky, But having printed out two corners to but up to each other to create the sides then move the first pattern piece to make 3 corner (if you see what I mean, I am wondering if it should be bigger. Can I ask others what sort of size they usually have the cloth centre. My bedfordshire one seems too tiny to me. Sue T Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] new website
Lovely work Rhiannon - the horse is beautiful, and quite different from traditional Bucks Point (my daughter would love it...) Where did you get that pattern and the Musical Clef one? They look like two for my to-do list if I can get hold of them! Beth in Cheshire where a beautiful sunny spring day (I aired all my bedding on the washing line in celebration) has given way to a rainy night. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Bone Bobbins and colour marking.
I've never heard that story! Can you share it with us (just in case any of us fel tempted to try our hand at making giraffe-bone bobbins...) Beth in cold (but at least it's not raining this morning) Cheshire, NW England Devon wrote: I may even have shared the story about the time the Springetts got the giraffe bone from the zoo and boiled it and attempted to make bobbins with it. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace]: Proposed alternative mounting material
Well done! It looks really pretty - the coloured gimps give a very different feel from the traditional white. Beth in Cheshire (NW England) where we've seen some sunshine today On Sunday 01 March 2009, Rhiannon Mann wrote: Dear fellow arachnians, How are we all doing? I am having a highly ingenious morning- firstly my thread-breakage blighted pink trinity honeycomb ground frame edging has been successfully removed and sewn off. I think its looking great too ~ check out webshots: http://tinyurl.com/dc5ctr Secondly I may have stumbled on an novel idea to mount my sunset circle. It has been sat waiting for sewing off since completion and after finishing pink trinity I was in sewing off mode. As I went to where I stored it I had to move some circular polystyene pizza packaging bases out of the way which i had saved thinking i could build them into a lace cushion?!? Then i dawned on me that I could mount my lace onto one and attach it to a frame/card of mount board. We shall soon find out how successful this idea is as I now think this will great made up as one huge mothers day card. Thanks for all the support Rhiannon (glad of some sunshine, Ireland) _ Twice the funShare photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Miss Channer goes Chantilly
Another incredible piece of lace work! Thanks Julian for putting the pictures where we can all see them. And congratulations to David on finishing his Tonder piece (I'm green with envy at the skill and patience it must have taken) Beth in Cheshire, NW England Julian wrote: Following on from David's piece of Tønder I have now uploaded pictures of his latest project: Miss Channer's Mat goes Chantilly. http://www.margorsson.com/Miss_Channers_Mat_goes_Chantilly.html You may also be interested to know that on the Men n' Lace pages I have included information about a family of lacemakers - a husband wife and three sons from Estonia: Priit Halberg: http://www.margorsson.com/Priit_Halberg.html Thanks Julian - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] threads
Hi Finca 80 and Brok 100 are both much finer than Broder Machine 30. Finca 40 is closer (sorry, I don't have Threads for Lace handy to look up just how close or otherwise), probably a little finer than the Broder Machine. Beth in a frosty Cheshire, NW England Lorelei Halley wrote: Hi Can somebody help with a thread question? I have an internet friend who has Finca 40, Finca 80, DMC 80, DMC 100, and Brok 100. But has a pattern which calls for Broder machine No 30 and Bockens Linen 100/2 I would have said DMC 100, but am not sure about Finca or Brok 100. Any ideas? Lorelei - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] numbers of knitting needles
Francis US knitting needle sizes are different to both European (metric) and UK sizes. There's a handy conversion table for all three at this site: http://www.laughinghens.com/knitting-needle-sizes.asp Beth in a beautifully sunny, cold Cheshire NW England On Friday 06 February 2009, Francis Busschaert wrote: hallo to all i need a fast answer is the knitting needle numbering from USa american needles the same as the numbers we use in europe here a number 10 is 10mm dimameter is this the same in the USA or is there quite a difference many kind regards francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Lace on the pillow
Hi Alice and all Has anyone used Honiton bobbins for Binche? I have enough of them to do the pattern. The weight would suit the fine thread used. I don't know about binche, I've never done any, but I did once use honiton bobbins for a piece of very fine torchon (doll's house tablecloth using Cotona 80 thread). I wished I'd used my honiton pillow for it, as lying on a flattish pillow the bobbins didn't quite tension enough so I had to keep pulling them (gently) to get the threads into place. Juding from that experience, if your dolphin is small enough to work on a honiton pillow or on a small cookie balanced on a couple of books or something to allow the bobbins to hang off the edge that should be OK for any fine thread lace. If not, it's probably worth ordering a batch of cheapish bobbins - the ones some lace suppliers sell in bulk as beginners bobbins - to make up the numbers. You'll enjoy the lacemaking experience more, and the finished result will probably look better. Good luck with your binche. Beth in a bright but cold and windy Cheshire, NW England where the weather forecasters are threatening us with snow in a day or two. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] retournac photos
The caption to the photo of the bookmarks included which pattern pack each of the bookmarks shown was from. (The patterns from the Retournac museum are only available in sets - there are about 20 sets now, some of which may be out-of-print at the moment - not as individual patterns). The sets are beautiful (I have quite a few of them) but not particularly cheap, especially for those buying in £ or $ at the moment. Probably not quite worth buying a set just to make the bookmark from it, but worth looking at. BTW Susan, the patterns have no or very little diagrams/instructions so might not be suitable for a near beginner. Regards Beth in a cold Cheshire NW England -- Forwarded Message -- Subject: Re: [lace] retournac photos Date: Wednesday 21 January 2009 From: Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net To: hottl...@neo.rr.com Hi again, Susan - I've just peeked at the Retournac website, and unfortunately, I don't see any bookmark patterns available. Sorry... Clay hottl...@neo.rr.com wrote: To Clay! Thanks so much for posting the Retournac photos!!! As a newbie, I'm sick to death of bookmark samples. But these--well--they are so--shall I say-- tres chic! Truly works of art. Sort of the Emeril Lagasse-ified version--BAM! In your honor, I started a little Mirecourt piece today. It took forever to wind the bobbins with 1.5 hands--but--I've got it started. So maybe the endless hours of hand finger therapy exercise will win out. Thanks again for the inspiration. I'm looking forward to the prickings/diagrams. Is there a link? Susan, clicking a few bobbins in Grassy Key - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com --- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] test?
Hi Roberta and all I think the list really is that quiet - I haven't seen a message since Thursday or Friday. I discovered yesterday that my next-door-neighbour is descended from a long line of lacemakers from Yardley Hastings near the border of Northamptonshire/Bedfordshire/Buckinghamshire. Sue doesn't make lace herself, but her daughters learnt a bit as children from one of their grandmothers and Sue still has one of their pillows bobbins in her attic. Beth In a sunny Cheshire, NW England On Sunday 18 January 2009, Roberta S Donnelly wrote: Hi all, I just haven't heard from anyone for over two days starting to get concerned. Is the list that quiet? Or have I been dropped somehow? Talk to you soon I hope! bobbi ~*~ Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Help Please
Good luck with your Incy Wincy Spider, Nancy Support pins are pins set back a little way from the first row of stitches - you hang the pairs on support pins while you work the first pinhole(s) using those pairs, then take the support pins out and tension gently to get the threads neatly round the first real pins in the lace. How obvious it is where you need to add the pairs depends on the type of lace and the shape of the piece you're making (I haven't seen Incy Wincy Spider). A lot of torchon patterns start along either a single diagonal line or an inverted V shape - for those, as you move out/down from the start point you just add another pair at each pinhole (it's pretty obvious because you need the new pair to make the stitch round the pinhole). Hope that helps a little - if you've worked a similar shape/type lace before, have a look at the starting instructions from that and see if you can use those to help you identify where/how you need to bring in pairs for your new piece. It's always daunting starting your first new piece without instructions, but you'll learn loads from doing it. Beth In comparatively mild Cheshire, NW England, finding excuses not to get on with present-wrapping, mince-pie making and so on. On Wednesday 24 December 2008, Nancy Nicholson wrote: I have just bought a pattern called Incy Wincy Spider. I bought it because it was advertised as being ideal for a first big project and thought it was a good idea. On getting the pattern I am only shown where to put the first two pairs of bobbins (there are 34 pairs altogether) and I am to add the pairs using support pins. What are support pins? Will it be obvious where to add in the pairs? If I manage this it will be my first piece not following instructions from a book so I was looking forward to giving it a go but now am not so sure. Nancy - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Wearable lace
I wore my favourite lace hankie yesterday - folded in half and tucked into the neck of a rather-too-deep V-neck sweater. Showed off the deep lace edging beautifully and avoided showing off too much of me! Beth In an unseasonally warn Cheshire, NW England - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
