Re: [M100] Math program about equation and graph made myself

[Daniel L]

I'll take a look later today.

I used to spend my holidays in Pula.

Daniel

On 3/3/24 08:39, Davide Cosciani wrote:
Hi, I'm a programmer, I wrote a program to run on Olivetti M10 and all 
similar models, like M100, to solve equations of 1st and 2nd degree, 
draw the function on screen and other! Very helpful for students. I'd 
like share this with you, I attach the file EQP.BA  to 
this mail, you can pubblicate this.

 Best regards,

Davide Cosciani
Via Ginnastica, 43 - 34125 - Trieste - Italia - EU

[M100] Jeff's dog

[Daniel L]

Jeff -

I am currently watching your video on replacing the foil and foam on 
your model 2 keyboard and have to say you have a cute dog.


D

Re: [M100] Thank you veterans

[Daniel L]

Thank you. 8 years Navy. Proud lifetime member of VFW.

On November 11, 2023 10:07:53 AM PST, "John R. Hogerhuis"  
wrote:
>To all the US veterans in the club, and there have been and are many, thank
>you for your service. Happy Veterans Day to everyone.
>
>--== Model T's Forever ==--
>
>-- John.

[M100] A cyberdeck drew my attention

[Daniel L]

Hey buddies

I was perusing my youtube subs and found an interesting cyberdeck project 
designed and inspired by the M100. Check it out!

Youtube vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNG8KqZs_Fg
Project site: https://www.clockworkpi.com/uconsole

If it is already well known and Im beating on a dead horse, then forgive me.

I have been floating around an idea of crafting something similar, smaller, and 
running on arduino but this thing may be the ticket for me.

Daniel

Re: [M100] help! (as usual)

[Daniel L]

I bought my nicad from Birt. So yes.

On 8/30/23 18:16, Peter Vollan wrote:
I think I have figured out how the one in the second picture goes  on 
the bottom of the back of the keyboard PCB. The one in the first 
picture is very strangely shaped and still mystifies me. BTW they were 
removed because I took everything off of the front piece to 
retrobright it.


It doesn't look as if my caps are leaking, although I may not know 
what to look for. I hate to say it but it looks like too big a job for 
me, I'd like to not wreck my unit.


I think I will replace the nicad tho. With a brand new one right?

On Wed, 30 Aug 2023 at 17:52,  wrote:

Those look like the plastic bars on the top and bottom of keyboard
PCB. Not sure why they would have been removed though.

I would recommend replacing the caps and battery. If the caps have
not been replaced, they are leaking and eating aways at the PCB.
Every M100 I have taken apart has had leaking caps. Oddly, every
T102 I have taken apart does not have leaking caps.

Jeff Birt

*From:* M100  *On Behalf Of
*Doug Jackson
*Sent:* Wednesday, August 30, 2023 7:22 PM
*To:* m...@bitchin100.com
*Subject:* Re: [M100] help! (as usual)

I will try to open my M100 today so I can get you a photo, but
before you close up - please replace the NICAD.   Any Nicad that
hasn't split corrosive goop all over the board is literally
waiting till tomorrow, or next week to do so - It is not a case of
it isn't going to happen, as one of it simply hasn't happened yet!

Even if you don't have a replacement - simply removing it is critical.


Kindest regards,

Doug Jackson

em: d...@doughq.com

ph: 0414 986878

Follow my amateur radio adventures at vk1zdj.net 

On Thu, 31 Aug 2023 at 10:01, Peter Vollan 
wrote:

Have you ever felt that you are better at taking things apart
than at reassembling them? I took apart my Model 100 to look
into recapping it. Then I read about replacing the three
resistors, and, in fact, I have had some serial port problems,
although I don't really know that is the issue. I have been
flaking off on finishing the job for a while, being
overwhelmed by life, my apartment being an oven and so on.
Yesterday I finally knuckled down and installed the 330 ohm
resistors. I decided to quit while I'm ahead and not try to
recap it, although the nicad measures 2.25 so I might replace it.

Could you tell me where these two pieces go?

Re: [M100] Introduction

[Daniel L]

Welcome to the club. I have a few 100s and a daily driver is the 200.

Daniel

On 7/20/23 18:29, Alan Reed wrote:

Today I received a gorgeous Model 100 from eBay that’s working perfectly. Even 
better, it came with a REX# pre-installed! I’m having the unit completely 
re-capped so I’ll have to wait a few more weeks to use it.

I’m really enjoying reading through the list archive, and I’ve learned a lot. 
I’m looking forward to joining in.

Re: [M100] Interfacing Model 100 with the Real World

[Daniel L]

Me too, he loaded the rom for it on his new dial-a-rom on that last 
video, now i want to see it in action. Looks dope.


I'm wondering how easy it would be to create a similar thing with 
arduino - assuming OWL isn't.


On 2/28/23 13:07, Joseph Colson III wrote:


I know a little bit about the OWL but I’m not able to locate anything 
documenting the interface board. I know Jeff has one as well and has 
it on his to do list to create some videos about it.   Which by the 
way I’m really looking forward to watching!   But in the mean time I 
was hoping to locate some books and such documenting how to interface 
with it.


*From:* M100  *On Behalf Of *Peter 
Vollan

*Sent:* Tuesday, February 28, 2023 2:30 PM
*To:* m...@bitchin100.com
*Subject:* Re: [M100] Interfacing Model 100 with the Real World

There are model 100s that were used solely for that purpose. I think 
it was called an OWL, Outdoor Weather Logger. So that's a good place 
to start at least.


On Mon, 27 Feb 2023 at 18:08, Joseph Colson III 
 wrote:


I’m very interested in interfacing the Model 100 or Model 102 with
sensors, such as temp, wind and other that would be helpful.   Are
there any books that I can read that are somewhat specific to the
Model T’s that would help in the endeavor?

Re: [M100] Possible BBS launch

[Daniel L]

OK. Tribbs?

On February 28, 2023 1:06:30 PM PST, Gregory McGill  
wrote:
>I don't run syncronet :)  I think I'm included in syncroterm tho
>
>Greg
>
>On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 11:55 AM Daniel L  wrote:
>
>> Your board is on digitalman's list of syncronet bbs's so I already had it.
>>
>> I logged in and poked around. I was surprised you're not on any of the
>> message echoes.
>>
>> D
>>
>> On 2/26/23 07:51, Gregory McGill wrote:
>>
>> The KEEP BBS online since 83
>> I have a model t area
>> Stephen recently logged in with mcomm
>> Dialup and telnet
>> Https://thekeep.net for details
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023, 5:54 AM Jesse Lafleur  wrote:
>>
>>> You can 100% accomplish this using an affordable PAP2T ATA connected to
>>> either a local asterisk (free PBX software) or remote asterisk server over
>>> ethernet.
>>> This can be run entirely virtualised - no special hardware other than
>>> either a "landline" or the pap2t. (ill get to rotary later..)
>>>
>>> The PAP2T and asterisk can provide ulaw to allow 300bps connections. Yes,
>>> running a local asterisk is far more stable than trying to connect to one
>>> remotely, but ive done it!
>>> I have a setup functioning to 4800 baud for faster modems as well.
>>>
>>> The rotary element will likely need a pulse to tone adapter, lots of
>>> options for that, I use a PBX and I also have a few purpose devices new and
>>> old.
>>>
>>> You can easily have a BBS software or custom *NIX program to interface,
>>> and with the various termcap things in this group that have been shared,
>>> you can get a viable connection.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 8:41 AM grima...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Jesse,
>>>>
>>>> Do you happen to have any more details on your setup?
>>>>
>>>> I suppose in an ideal world, I’d like a setup that I can dial out from
>>>> my rotary phone, and a second line that I could dial in to a modem.
>>>>
>>>> How difficult does that sound? I tried to use MagicJack previously but
>>>> the compression codex they use doesn’t play well with data transfer.
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 8:11 AM Jesse Lafleur 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I can provide bell 103 compatible 100% online dial-in access to linux
>>>>> servers/services using voip/asterisk/etc. I use my m100 to dial into my
>>>>> local home pbx server, and ive even tried it over the web!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 7:44 AM grima...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> What are the odds that any of these BBSes would allow dialing in from
>>>>>> a real phone line?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There is a Commodore 64 BBS out there called BorderlineBBS that has a
>>>>>> hybrid Telnet/Dial-Up interface.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I managed to use the acoustic couplers to dial in once from the Model
>>>>>> T, but ever since switching to VOIP I wasn’t able to get it to work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I really always loved BBSing, so I would be in full support of using a
>>>>>> Model T focused BBS.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -George
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 7:30 AM Ben Strewens 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 2023-02-26 4:50 a.m., Daniel L wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm considering a specialized launch of a BBS catering to the modelT
>>>>>>> community. Any good boards out there already doing this that I can 
>>>>>>> peruse?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Daniel
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm currently working on one that will support multiple systems,
>>>>>>> including the model 100. I'm aiming for going all the way down to the 
>>>>>>> Epson
>>>>>>> HX-20, but we'll see how that pans out. It won't be up and running for a
>>>>>>> while yet. We're supposed to get a new ISP here this year. The one who
>>>>>>> bought out the company I was with closed all my ports and had no clue 
>>>>>>> how
>>>>>>> to re-open them, so my BBS got shut down. In the meantime, I figured I'd
>>>>>>> work on one that caters to the vintage computer community. I still have
>>>>>>> lots of work ahead of me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>

Re: [M100] Possible BBS launch

[Daniel L]

Your board is on digitalman's list of syncronet bbs's so I already had it.

I logged in and poked around. I was surprised you're not on any of the 
message echoes.


D

On 2/26/23 07:51, Gregory McGill wrote:

The KEEP BBS online since 83
I have a model t area
Stephen recently logged in with mcomm
Dialup and telnet
Https://thekeep.net  for details

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023, 5:54 AM Jesse Lafleur  wrote:

You can 100% accomplish this using an affordable PAP2T ATA
connected to either a local asterisk (free PBX software) or remote
asterisk server over ethernet.
This can be run entirely virtualised - no special hardware other
than either a "landline" or the pap2t. (ill get to rotary later..)

The PAP2T and asterisk can provide ulaw to allow 300bps
connections. Yes, running a local asterisk is far more stable than
trying to connect to one remotely, but ive done it!
I have a setup functioning to 4800 baud for faster modems as well.

The rotary element will likely need a pulse to tone adapter, lots
of options for that, I use a PBX and I also have a few purpose
devices new and old.

You can easily have a BBS software or custom *NIX program to
interface, and with the various termcap things in this group that
have been shared, you can get a viable connection.

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 8:41 AM grima...@gmail.com
 wrote:

Hi Jesse,

Do you happen to have any more details on your setup?

I suppose in an ideal world, I’d like a setup that I can dial
out from my rotary phone, and a second line that I could dial
in to a modem.

How difficult does that sound? I tried to use MagicJack
previously but the compression codex they use doesn’t play
well with data transfer.

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 8:11 AM Jesse Lafleur
 wrote:

I can provide bell 103 compatible 100% online dial-in
access to linux servers/services using voip/asterisk/etc.
I use my m100 to dial into my local home pbx server, and
ive even tried it over the web!

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 7:44 AM grima...@gmail.com
 wrote:

What are the odds that any of these BBSes would allow
dialing in from a real phone line?

There is a Commodore 64 BBS out there called
BorderlineBBS that has a hybrid Telnet/Dial-Up interface.

I managed to use the acoustic couplers to dial in once
from the Model T, but ever since switching to VOIP I
wasn’t able to get it to work.

I really always loved BBSing, so I would be in full
support of using a Model T focused BBS.

-George

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 7:30 AM Ben Strewens
 wrote:

On 2023-02-26 4:50 a.m., Daniel L wrote:

I'm considering a specialized launch of a BBS
catering to the modelT community. Any good boards
out there already doing this that I can peruse?

Daniel


I'm currently working on one that will support
multiple systems, including the model 100. I'm
aiming for going all the way down to the Epson
HX-20, but we'll see how that pans out. It won't
be up and running for a while yet. We're supposed
to get a new ISP here this year. The one who
bought out the company I was with closed all my
ports and had no clue how to re-open them, so my
BBS got shut down. In the meantime, I figured I'd
work on one that caters to the vintage computer
community. I still have lots of work ahead of me.

Re: [M100] Interfacing Model 100 with the Real World

[Daniel L]

I dont but you may find it useful to watch Birt's latest video on youtube where 
he adds a rom to a multirom jobber on his 100 and that he will use it to 
collect weather data. Read the thread announcing the video about dial-a-rom. 
It's a fascinating new feature he highlighted and im interested in seeing the 
outcome.

D

On February 27, 2023 5:43:56 PM PST, Joseph Colson III  
wrote:
>I'm very interested in interfacing the Model 100 or Model 102 with sensors, 
>such as temp, wind and other that would be helpful.   Are there any books that 
>I can read that are somewhat specific to the Model T's that would help in the 
>endeavor?

[M100] Possible BBS launch

[Daniel L]

I'm considering a specialized launch of a BBS catering to the modelT 
community. Any good boards out there already doing this that I can peruse?


Daniel

Re: [M100] VIDEO - Dial-A-ROM for the Model T computers (and others)

[Daniel L]

Good video Jeff. Anyone have a demo for that weather tracker? Looks DOPE

On 2/25/23 07:31, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:


Morning all,

I just made this video live this AM. The DARs for the Model T 
computers have sold out already but my friend is making more.


In this video we take a look at the ‘Dial-A-ROM’ a spiffy new 
multi-ROM for vintage portable computers. It was designed by the same 
guy who did the Backpack drive. First, we’ll learn how to use the 
Dial-A-ROM with the ROM images that come preinstalled on it. Then 
we’ll see how to add our own ROM images if we so desire.


*https://youtu.be/CejyLsI0HIw

Jeff Birt (Hey Birt!)*

Re: [M100] Radio Shack trs80 Model 200 for sale

[Daniel L]

What a relief. I would've bought it to save if I weren't beyond budget this 
month.

On February 24, 2023 6:14:49 AM PST, Joshua O'Keefe  
wrote:
>> On Feb 24, 2023, at 5:57 AM, Randall Kindig  wrote:
>> 
>> I didn’t get a response either.
>
>After this thread revived (thanks b 9!) I received an off-list reply that it 
>had been sold.  Nice to hear it didn't wind up making that dump run after all.

Re: [M100] Printer port clamp

[Daniel L]

I thought it as fascinating when watching a youtube video where a guy took his 
wifi card (which is plugged in for power) and modified it so that it uses the 
5v output from the BCR to make it a completely wireless solution. I dont know, 
though, how much it drains the batteries.

On February 19, 2023 6:44:47 PM PST, Kenneth Pettit  wrote:
>Hey Joseph,
>
>No likely.  The 40H244 CMOS chip won't source much current, even if you could 
>keep all 8 of the output drivers on.  But you can't because those signals are 
>also used for the keyboard scan logic.
>
>And the only other outputs there have large pull-up resistors, also preventing 
>much current draw.
>
>Your best bet might be to use the BCR port on the side of the unit instead.  
>It has a 5V output that could be used, plus a 9-pin DIN connector for support.
>
>Ken
>
>On 2/19/23 6:33 PM, Joseph Colson III wrote:
>> Kenneth - Do you think you could pull power from the printer port?  I mean 
>> if you going to make a mount then might as well have it power the light as 
>> well !
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: M100  On Behalf Of Kenneth Pettit
>> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2023 8:16 PM
>> To: m...@bitchin100.com
>> Subject: Re: [M100] Printer port clamp
>> 
>> Hmm,  yep, I think you are correct.
>> 
>> In that case it would be a 26-pin Dual Row IDC connector:
>> 
>> https://bra01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.showmecables.com%2F26-pin-dual-row-idc-socket-female%3Fgclid%3DCj0KCQiArsefBhCbARIsAP98hXS-dgo47D7eqMezAZ8ZUoocwyXh7JtE35QRXf3tfeoZ_4gt8F3pB-QaAsBPEALw_wcB=05%7C01%7C%7C85cde32a96fc4b60185808db12e8998f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638124562468954694%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=nwr6CsO4%2BIDXtDw1sms%2FbYuEDbn5I4u7%2BNfZAcxk4K4%3D=0
>> 
>> Ken
>> 
>> 
>> On 2/19/23 6:12 PM, Joseph Colson III wrote:
>>> Isn't that connector for the printer side of the cable ?   I assumed he was 
>>> thinking of the back of the Model 100.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: M100  On Behalf Of Kenneth Pettit
>>> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2023 6:40 PM
>>> To: m...@bitchin100.com
>>> Subject: Re: [M100] Printer port clamp
>>> 
>>> Yep, it is a 36-pin centronics connector:
>>> 
>>> https://bra01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fuxcell-Centronics-Connector-Printer-Adapter%2Fdp%2FB00X7BP2B6=05%7C01%7C%7C85cde32a96fc4b60185808db12e8998f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638124562468954694%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=TD6lKQWTkjw0KSLrj6B%2BIPA%2F6tnfJFs9UV%2BH6Hcyxzc%3D=0
>>> 
>>> Ken
>>> 
>>> On 2/19/23 3:41 PM, Wayne Lorentz wrote:
 I was in the book store yesterday and picked up one of those little 
 battery-powered lights that clip onto a book.  Not the ones with the 
 giant, scary clamps, but one with a smaller, dainty clip.
 
 I thought I might have it do double-duty illuminating an M100 screen from 
 above, but there doesn't appear to be anything suitable on an M100 to clip 
 it onto.  Then I thought, maybe I can plug something inert into the 
 printer port, like a very short, unpopulated circuit board. (The serial 
 port is occupied already.)
 
 Can anyone tell me what the connector for the printer port is called?  I 
 assume that once identified, I can buy it online, since I'm a long way 
 from the (last?) Radio Shack in Wisconsin Dells.
>

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

Back when 151 was still being made, my broham would always through a 
bash for his birthday and we'd all get a shot of 151. Now that it's no 
longer made, it's everclear. Stuff is nasty.


On 2/19/23 02:33, lloydel...@comcast.net wrote:


Now you could go to the liquor store and buy some Everclear (assuming 
you are in a state where it is legal).


Everclear is sold at 190 proof or 95% alcohol.    It is about as pure 
an alcohol as you can get and still have it consumable.  (Denatured 
will kill you if you drink it.)


A gazillion years ago (about 43 years ago), I worked with Honeywell at 
a McDonnell Douglass Aircraft facility in St. Charles, MO. We were 
developing automatic test programs for F-15 SRAs (Shop Replaceable 
Assemblies, i.e. circuit boards).   The multirack test equipment had a 
Virginial panel that allowed you to connect a interface test adapter 
(ITA - I think we called it that).   The adapter was set on the panel 
and lever was pulled and the connectors all mated with the test 
adapter pins.   The lever was to generate some slight wiping action as 
several hundred pins made contact.


Honeywell technicians used a bottle of Everclear and a 2inch or so 
finishing paint brush to clean the panel prior to setting the ITA on 
it.   It seemed to help make reliable connections.


It is probably the only good use for that substance.  I can’t imagine 
ever drinking it again.  (I had some bad experiences with it in 
college.) 


Lloyd

*From:* M100  *On Behalf Of *Brian 
White

*Sent:* Saturday, February 18, 2023 9:36 PM
*To:* m...@bitchin100.com
*Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

Wow. That is a bit ridiculous. Well 91% is ok. You just may want to 
heat the whole thing with a hair dryer because 91% will leave a little 
moisture especially in all the corners and trapped spaces. Heat will 
drive the last bit out. And a hair dryer isn't hot enough to worry 
about harming anything even when it gets too hot to touch.


bkw

On Sat, Feb 18, 2023, 8:40 PM Daniel L  wrote:

I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot
to get the alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that
California banned the sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and
it carries a $5000 penalty if caught with it without a
contractor's permit. They don't sell it.

They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered
online for home delivery.

I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.

On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:

Also harbor freight has 99%

On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White
 wrote:

At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint
store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.

If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just
got someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in
the automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or
seasonal because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic
even though
they normally don't carry that.

Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or
methanol, but it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for
cleaning
electronics.

You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics
supply shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually
has it in their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much
more expensive.

-- 
bkw


On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already
in the garage,
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't
seem to have
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor
freight next.
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
>
> On 2/9/23 16:23, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing
alcohol with stuff
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware
store 99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every
joint you touch
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering
for 40 years
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths
washing detergent
>> isle.
>>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From

Re: [M100] Radio Shack trs80 Model 200 for sale

[Daniel L]

Did someone make an offer? It would be a shame to see it in the trash. 
The 200s are hard to find.


On 2/18/23 00:11, Kevin Lee wrote:

Offers welcome.  Or it heads for the trash.

T200 with multi plan option rom and instructions.
Including protective briefcase.

Shipping from Central Europe.
Thanks
K.

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

They do carry mineral spirits, and I suspect it leaves a residue. So I'm 
sticking with 91%


On 2/18/23 17:40, Daniel L wrote:
I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot to 
get the alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that 
California banned the sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and it 
carries a $5000 penalty if caught with it without a contractor's 
permit. They don't sell it.


They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered 
online for home delivery.


I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.


On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:

Also harbor freight has 99%

On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White  
wrote:


At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.

If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got
someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the
automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal
because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even
though
they normally don't carry that.

Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but
it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning
electronics.

You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply
shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it
in their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more
expensive.

-- 
bkw


On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the
garage,
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem
to have
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next.
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
>
> On 2/9/23 16:23, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with
stuff
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store
99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint
you touch
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40
years
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing
detergent
>> isle.
    >>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From:* M100  *On Behalf Of
*Daniel L
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> *To:* m100@lists.bitchin100.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>>
>> On 2/9/23 05:17, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>>
>>     There are two different causes of corrosion here. The
battery has
>>     an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery
neutralize the
>>     electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
>>     citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
>>     components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
>>     will wick through the solder joint making it to the other
side of
>>     the PCB and eating the via.
>>
>> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you
get from
>> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as
possible to
>> refresh them after forty years.
>>
>>
>>     The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
>>     M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is
one of
>>     the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in
capacitors is
>>     acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
>>     corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
>>     solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.)
Clean
>>     and repair damaged traces.
>>
>> Where do you get ammonia?
>>
>>     I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to
YouTube and
>>     search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for
‘Model
>>     100’.
>>
>> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I
got my
>> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the
other day.
>>
>

-- 
bkw

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot to get 
the alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that California 
banned the sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and it carries a 
$5000 penalty if caught with it without a contractor's permit. They 
don't sell it.


They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered online 
for home delivery.


I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.


On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:

Also harbor freight has 99%

On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White  
wrote:


At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.

If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got
someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the
automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal
because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even though
they normally don't carry that.

Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but
it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning
electronics.

You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it in
their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more
expensive.

-- 
bkw


On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the
garage,
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to
have
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next.
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
>
> On 2/9/23 16:23, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with
stuff
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint
you touch
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40
years
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing
detergent
>> isle.
    >>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From:* M100  *On Behalf Of
*Daniel L
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> *To:* m100@lists.bitchin100.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>>
>> On 2/9/23 05:17, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>>
>>     There are two different causes of corrosion here. The
battery has
>>     an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery
neutralize the
>>     electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
>>     citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
>>     components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
>>     will wick through the solder joint making it to the other
side of
>>     the PCB and eating the via.
>>
>> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get
from
>> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as
possible to
>> refresh them after forty years.
>>
>>
>>     The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
>>     M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is
one of
>>     the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in
capacitors is
>>     acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
>>     corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
>>     solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
>>     and repair damaged traces.
>>
>> Where do you get ammonia?
>>
>>     I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to
YouTube and
>>     search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for
‘Model
>>     100’.
>>
>> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I
got my
>> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the
other day.
>>
>

-- 
bkw

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

I actually tried this having watched years of ben heck vids. The new 
solder beads rolled right off the old solder - almost bridging with 
another joint. Blew me away.


On 2/15/23 05:23, Royce Taft wrote:

I’m not sure if you’ve tried this or not, but I figured I’d mention it anyway.  
Try adding some new solder to the old solder to get it to melt, then extract 
the component leads and use your desoldering methods to clean up the pads.

To do this, I keep my soldering iron tip against the old solder and press some 
new solder against the tip. The molten new solder with its flux always seems to 
get the old stuff flowing again.

Best of luck,

Royce

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

Thanks, I'll start with that.

Got the caps removed from the main board. All four of the remaining caps 
were a pain to remove. Two of the posts are still attached. Can't seem 
to get the solder melted enough to remove them.


C49 10uF 16v
C50 10uF 16v
C52 1uF 50v
C54 10uF 16v
C55 10uF 16v
C75 75uF 10v
C76 75uF 10v
C77 75uF 10v
C78 3.3uF 50v
C82 4.7uF 25v
C83 470uF 25v
C84 470uF 6.3v
C85 33uF 10v
C86 100uF 10v
C90 1uF 50v
C92 .47uF 50v
C103 220uF 10v

Even though a third of them were a true pain to remove, I've been having 
a blast.


D

On 2/14/23 04:14, Josh Malone wrote:

On Tue, Feb 14, 2023 at 4:52 AM Daniel L  wrote:


Can someone recommend a good solder sucker that won't break the
bank yet isn't a pile of poop?


https://www.adafruit.com/product/1597

Only impulse-type sucker worth considering IMO. It's a bit too small 
for some hands is really the only complaint.


-Josh

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

Got the battery from Birt. Still waiting on the caps from another site.

Took the opportunity tonight to get started removing the caps. Got most 
of them - visually there's four remaining. Not sure how many are on the 
display pcb. I have to say, some of those caps were a real bitch to 
remove. Some of that solder wouldn't melt and had a consistency of a 
hard powder. so weird. It's going to take some real clean up once the 
caps are all gone. Tomorrow I go shopping for the remainder of the 
chemicals needed to clean the residue.


Can someone recommend a good solder sucker that won't break the bank yet 
isn't a pile of poop?


D

On 2/9/23 02:13, Daniel L wrote:
Okay, a few years have passed. I get it. Things happen. Bought my 
first 100 in 2020 from eBay - instantly had problems that still exist 
today but I've recently identified a solution. Soon after, my second 
100 came to me as an inexpensive 'for parts' unit that ultimately 
worked fine - the seller didn't have the memory switch set to 'on' and 
thought it was dead. The thing works like it's fresh out of the 
factory. Guys, I learned that I made a big mistake. Got my 200 from 
this list soon after getting my 100's and made that my daily driver 
from then on. 100s found a home in the closet next to the board games.


I decided today to register them all with Web8201 and cracked her open 
for the first time. I wasn't thinking too much about the insides, 
stupid me, and opened it to get the necessary numbers to provide good 
registration info. As I was screwing her back together, I decided to 
inspect it for problems. Looked at the battery and, on initial 
inspection, it looked okay. Then I looked closer and found residue on 
the side, then residue on a number of via's where the nearby resistors 
are soldered in.


I should have inspected it two years ago but it just sat on my closet 
and I can't help but think maybe it only leaked after i got the 
device. Again, I turn it on and it's splendid. I just wish I wasn't so 
stupid as to ignore the inspection two years ago. Or, at least, I wish 
I had at least removed the internal battery when I got it. Just 
stupidity here. BONK


So now I have some soldering and cleanup to do. I assume the resistors 
should be replaced? I went ahead and excised the motherboard from the 
shell for deep inspection. As you can see, there are some leaking 
caps, residue, and some impacted traces so... I have some restoration 
work to do. And I have some components to order. I also have to learn 
how to restore traces.


Pictures:

https://imgur.com/zn3fV4G.png
https://imgur.com/m6yzNzm.png
https://imgur.com/nWw3JNh.png
https://imgur.com/yMlMc5L.png
https://imgur.com/mbyV6xB.png
https://imgur.com/m1Uc6ez.png

From yall's experience, is this real bad or not too bad?

Daniel

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

Im visiting my momoinlaw maybe ill find some in this town.

On February 10, 2023 12:14:45 AM PST, Gregory McGill  
wrote:
>Also harbor freight has 99%
>
>On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White  wrote:
>
>> At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's
>> called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.
>>
>> If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got someone who
>> didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the automotive
>> section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal because
>> they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even though
>> they normally don't carry that.
>>
>> Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but it's a
>> lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning
>> electronics.
>>
>> You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply shops,
>> which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it in their
>> maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more expensive.
>>
>> --
>> bkw
>>
>> On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
>> > OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the garage,
>> > and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to have
>> > alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next.
>> > Distilled water from rite aid next.
>> >
>> > On 2/9/23 16:23, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>> >>
>> >> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with stuff
>> >> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
>> >>
>> >> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint you touch
>> >> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40 years
>> >> and I live by this advice.
>> >>
>> >> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing detergent
>> >> isle.
>> >>
>> >> Jeff Birt
>> >>
>> >> *From:* M100  *On Behalf Of *Daniel
>> L
>> >> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> >> *To:* m100@lists.bitchin100.com
>> >> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>> >>
>> >> On 2/9/23 05:17, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>> >>
>> >> There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has
>> >> an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the
>> >> electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
>> >> citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
>> >> components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
>> >> will wick through the solder joint making it to the other side of
>> >> the PCB and eating the via.
>> >>
>> >> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from
>> >> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to
>> >> refresh them after forty years.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
>> >> M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of
>> >> the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is
>> >> acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
>> >> corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
>> >> solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
>> >> and repair damaged traces.
>> >>
>> >> Where do you get ammonia?
>> >>
>> >> I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and
>> >> search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model
>> >> 100’.
>> >>
>> >> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my
>> >> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.
>> >>
>> >
>>
>> --
>> bkw
>>
>>

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the garage, 
and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to have 
alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next. 
Distilled water from rite aid next.


On 2/9/23 16:23, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:


You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with stuff 
added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.


Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint you touch 
is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40 years 
and I live by this advice.


Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing detergent 
isle.


Jeff Birt

*From:* M100  *On Behalf Of *Daniel L
*Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
*To:* m100@lists.bitchin100.com
*Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

On 2/9/23 05:17, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:

There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has
an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the
electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
will wick through the solder joint making it to the other side of
the PCB and eating the via.

Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from 
the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to 
refresh them after forty years.



The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of
the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is
acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
and repair damaged traces.

Where do you get ammonia?

I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and
search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model
100’.

I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my 
first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

On 2/9/23 05:55, Patrick Bureau wrote:


Note: the following is how I deal with it, do as you like

--- STEP ONE -

First and this will be repeated by everyone and you know this already 
go ahead and clip that battery off.

You can do unsoldering later when you get a fresh one


Yeah I clipped it off last night.

--- STEP TWO -

Get distilled white vinegar,  and distilled water at the store (cost 
like 1$ for a gallon), do not use tap water!


I do a battery cleaning with vinegar, water then then sodium 
bicarbonate for caps, water again and then dry.


distilled vinegar/water for the battery terminal and surrounding area, 
then baking soda for the cap residue. Okay.


--- STEP THREE -

I use electronic alcohol (99% isipropolene Alcohol) and a toothbrush 
to scrub everywhere I see corrosion


Hopefully once you scrub the board you will be able to see if traces 
have been broken/eaten away or not.



isopropyl alcohol?


Corrosion will seep into soldered components and work thru it and to 
opposite side of the motherboard so check both sides


I usually unsolder all corrosion seen near components and replace the 
“corroded solder” with fresh one.


This also permit to find underling hiding board issues.

Black accumulation is a dead give away of corrosion and will need to 
be scrubbed off with a special “pen”  (thanks for that tip Birt!)


I use and love how cheap and easy to use Fiberglass Scratch Brush 
*Pen* 
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S3RCTGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1>. 
it will reveal any “damage” need to be repaired.



On order from the amazon link, thanks.


--- NOTES REGARDING YOUR PICTURES-

The X1 crystal has nothing wrong that glue is important for it to 
remain it isn’t corrosion.


Yes all caps should be change on the M100, if one has leaked as shown 
in your picture  the rest will as well.


Image of the power supply area of the M100 with “plaque corrosion”

https://i.imgur.com/XhWLvh9.png

before corrosion removed with vinegar bath

https://i.imgur.com/4nVtvfq.png

microscope image of corrosion on  other component

https://i.imgur.com/3Uk3NT5.png

After corrosion removed with vinegar bath and replace battery and caps 
and un/soldering corroded solder


https://i.imgur.com/qllXbWN.png


Thanks for the pics, very clear and close up, which I appreciate.


Patrick B. (TTR)

*From: *Daniel L <mailto:m...@scifidan.com>
*Sent: *Thursday, February 9, 2023 4:14 AM
*To: *m...@bitchin100.com
*Subject: *[M100] stupid move = expected results

Okay, a few years have passed. I get it. Things happen. Bought my 
first 100 in 2020 from eBay - instantly had problems that still exist 
today but I've recently identified a solution. Soon after, my second 
100 came to me as an inexpensive 'for parts' unit that ultimately 
worked fine - the seller didn't have the memory switch set to 'on' and 
thought it was dead. The thing works like it's fresh out of the 
factory. Guys, I learned that I made a big mistake. Got my 200 from 
this list soon after getting my 100's and made that my daily driver 
from then on. 100s found a home in the closet next to the board games.


I decided today to register them all with Web8201 and cracked her open 
for the first time. I wasn't thinking too much about the insides, 
stupid me, and opened it to get the necessary numbers to provide good 
registration info. As I was screwing her back together, I decided to 
inspect it for problems. Looked at the battery and, on initial 
inspection, it looked okay. Then I looked closer and found residue on 
the side, then residue on a number of via's where the nearby resistors 
are soldered in.


I should have inspected it two years ago but it just sat on my closet 
and I can't help but think maybe it only leaked after i got the 
device. Again, I turn it on and it's splendid. I just wish I wasn't so 
stupid as to ignore the inspection two years ago. Or, at least, I wish 
I had at least removed the internal battery when I got it. Just 
stupidity here. BONK


So now I have some soldering and cleanup to do. I assume the resistors 
should be replaced? I went ahead and excised the motherboard from the 
shell for deep inspection. As you can see, there are some leaking 
caps, residue, and some impacted traces so... I have some restoration 
work to do. And I have some components to order. I also have to learn 
how to restore traces.


Pictures:

https://imgur.com/zn3fV4G.png
https://imgur.com/m6yzNzm.png
https://imgur.com/nWw3JNh.png
https://imgur.com/yMlMc5L.png
https://imgur.com/mbyV6xB.png
https://imgur.com/m1Uc6ez.png

From yall's experience, is this real bad or not too bad?

Daniel

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

On 2/9/23 05:17, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:


There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has an 
alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the 
electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or citric 
acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from components 
that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion will wick through 
the solder joint making it to the other side of the PCB and eating the 
via.


Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from the 
drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to refresh 
them after forty years.


The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every M100 
that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of the few 
machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is acidic. 
After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the corrosion off 
and then treat the area with a mild alkaline solution to neutralize 
any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean and repair damaged traces.



Where do you get ammonia?


I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and 
search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model 100’.


I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my 
first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.


Jeff Birt

*From:* M100  *On Behalf Of *Daniel L
*Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 4:14 AM
*To:* m...@bitchin100.com
*Subject:* [M100] stupid move = expected results

Okay, a few years have passed. I get it. Things happen. Bought my 
first 100 in 2020 from eBay - instantly had problems that still exist 
today but I've recently identified a solution. Soon after, my second 
100 came to me as an inexpensive 'for parts' unit that ultimately 
worked fine - the seller didn't have the memory switch set to 'on' and 
thought it was dead. The thing works like it's fresh out of the 
factory. Guys, I learned that I made a big mistake. Got my 200 from 
this list soon after getting my 100's and made that my daily driver 
from then on. 100s found a home in the closet next to the board games.


I decided today to register them all with Web8201 and cracked her open 
for the first time. I wasn't thinking too much about the insides, 
stupid me, and opened it to get the necessary numbers to provide good 
registration info. As I was screwing her back together, I decided to 
inspect it for problems. Looked at the battery and, on initial 
inspection, it looked okay. Then I looked closer and found residue on 
the side, then residue on a number of via's where the nearby resistors 
are soldered in.


I should have inspected it two years ago but it just sat on my closet 
and I can't help but think maybe it only leaked after i got the 
device. Again, I turn it on and it's splendid. I just wish I wasn't so 
stupid as to ignore the inspection two years ago. Or, at least, I wish 
I had at least removed the internal battery when I got it. Just 
stupidity here. BONK


So now I have some soldering and cleanup to do. I assume the resistors 
should be replaced? I went ahead and excised the motherboard from the 
shell for deep inspection. As you can see, there are some leaking 
caps, residue, and some impacted traces so... I have some restoration 
work to do. And I have some components to order. I also have to learn 
how to restore traces.


Pictures:

https://imgur.com/zn3fV4G.png
https://imgur.com/m6yzNzm.png
https://imgur.com/nWw3JNh.png
https://imgur.com/yMlMc5L.png
https://imgur.com/mbyV6xB.png
https://imgur.com/m1Uc6ez.png

From yall's experience, is this real bad or not too bad?

Daniel

Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

On 2/9/23 03:43, Brian K. White wrote:
The resistors are fine. Just get the battery out, wash and brush the 
area and you'll be surprised.

Okie doke.


The silver cylinder is a crystal, and that is glue around it's base to 
secure it from vibrating. That one is ok don't try to clean that glue 
too much.

Good to know. It looked like utter rust.


Doesn't look too bad really but you didn't show all the electrolytic 
caps. The larger ones can have corrosion on the traces even though the 
cap may look fine at first glace. They don't get the green copper 
oxide all over like the battery, they get an invisible film that 
spreads all around the area around each one. Yo look real close and 
you see the traces may be corroded underneath the soldermask.
No the caps I didn't show because there wasn't anything to see there, 
that I thought. I see the film you're describing so, obviously, i have 
some work to do. Gonna order a cap kit and battery from birt in a minute 
here.
Or maybe all fine. First obviously just get the battery out and clean 
the area, and then you'll be able to see if any traces need work with 
the surface crud out of the way.

Will do


Doesn't look too bad though. Should come back fine without too much 
trouble. You don't usually have to actually repair traces, just add a 
wire from point to point to replace where the trace went. Wrapping 
wire is handy for that. Or single strands from some stranded wire.


Hoping it's that easy. We'll see. I've already cut the battery out. I'll 
remove the caps once the ones I order come in.


Daniel

[M100] stupid move = expected results

[Daniel L]

Okay, a few years have passed. I get it. Things happen. Bought my first 
100 in 2020 from eBay - instantly had problems that still exist today 
but I've recently identified a solution. Soon after, my second 100 came 
to me as an inexpensive 'for parts' unit that ultimately worked fine - 
the seller didn't have the memory switch set to 'on' and thought it was 
dead. The thing works like it's fresh out of the factory. Guys, I 
learned that I made a big mistake. Got my 200 from this list soon after 
getting my 100's and made that my daily driver from then on. 100s found 
a home in the closet next to the board games.


I decided today to register them all with Web8201 and cracked her open 
for the first time. I wasn't thinking too much about the insides, stupid 
me, and opened it to get the necessary numbers to provide good 
registration info. As I was screwing her back together, I decided to 
inspect it for problems. Looked at the battery and, on initial 
inspection, it looked okay. Then I looked closer and found residue on 
the side, then residue on a number of via's where the nearby resistors 
are soldered in.


I should have inspected it two years ago but it just sat on my closet 
and I can't help but think maybe it only leaked after i got the device. 
Again, I turn it on and it's splendid. I just wish I wasn't so stupid as 
to ignore the inspection two years ago. Or, at least, I wish I had at 
least removed the internal battery when I got it. Just stupidity here. BONK


So now I have some soldering and cleanup to do. I assume the resistors 
should be replaced? I went ahead and excised the motherboard from the 
shell for deep inspection. As you can see, there are some leaking caps, 
residue, and some impacted traces so... I have some restoration work to 
do. And I have some components to order. I also have to learn how to 
restore traces.


Pictures:

https://imgur.com/zn3fV4G.png
https://imgur.com/m6yzNzm.png
https://imgur.com/nWw3JNh.png
https://imgur.com/yMlMc5L.png
https://imgur.com/mbyV6xB.png
https://imgur.com/m1Uc6ez.png

From yall's experience, is this real bad or not too bad?

Daniel

Re: [M100] Beta testers for R2.2 for REX# and REXCPM?

[Daniel L]

I should consider replacing my rex then. Maybe it's a good time since I 
can't seem to keep my files after a crash.


D

On 2/7/23 04:27, Stephen Adolph wrote:

thanks, no. I think you have an old one, not a REX#.

On Tue, Feb 7, 2023 at 3:03 AM Daniel L  wrote:

Does the rex on my 200 count?

On 2/6/23 13:34, Stephen Adolph wrote:
> If anyone is interested in testing out R2.2 prior to release,
let me
> know please. I can send the files needed to upgrade the software.
> Suitable for REX# and REXCPM.
>
> Thanks Steve
>

Re: [M100] Beta testers for R2.2 for REX# and REXCPM?

[Daniel L]

Does the rex on my 200 count?

On 2/6/23 13:34, Stephen Adolph wrote:
If anyone is interested in testing out R2.2 prior to release, let me 
know please. I can send the files needed to upgrade the software. 
Suitable for REX# and REXCPM.


Thanks Steve

Re: [M100] Model 100 BOM

[Daniel L]

On 2/3/23 09:40, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:

Henner created a full schematic which includes BOM. M100.

https://github.com/hzeller/trs80-100-schematic

-- John.



Thanks for the link. Impressive work that. Thanks Birt.

Daniel

Re: [M100] Model 100 BOM

[Daniel L]

Good news, thanks. I'll look for that.

On 2/2/23 23:40, Cedric Amand wrote:

This is in the technical manuals
As far as international revisions ; it’s mostly about unpopulated zones



Daniel L  3 févr. 2023, 07:54:10 wrote:

Has anyone gone through the trouble of listing a BOM for a M100?
You know, list of caps, resistors, chips, etc. For all revisions?

How about 102 and 200?

Daniel

[M100] Model 100 BOM

[Daniel L]

Has anyone gone through the trouble of listing a BOM for a M100? You know, list 
of caps, resistors, chips, etc. For all revisions?

How about 102 and 200?

Daniel

Re: [M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

On 2/1/23 16:37, Daryl Tester wrote:

On 2/2/23 10:55, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:

Right... just get a headlamp. It works. You will not be cool. But you 
have

to ask yourself, how cool were you without it?


A 50% reduction of nothing is still nothing, right?

Cheers,
  Daryl "eschewing coolness since the last millennium" Tester.


Astute observation that.

D

Re: [M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

 I'm sure people playing the gameboy look super cool. Probably the only 
thing on their mind.


On 2/1/23 16:25, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:
Right... just get a headlamp. It works. You will not be cool. But you 
have to ask yourself, how cool were you without it?


-- John.

Re: [M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

On 2/1/23 16:01, Kenneth Pettit wrote:

On 2/1/23 3:26 PM, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
The rear polarizer on the LCD would need to be changed from the 
reflective type to transmissive. The display would also need to be 
inverted. Then you have to find a way to squeeze the backlight 
lightguide, LED, etc. into the top of the case and a way to route 
power to it. Take a look at the early backlight conversion kits for 
the original Gameboys. I think they called them 'bivert' kits.


Hmm, mabye a flashlight is easier???  ;-)

+--+
   .""| ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | BASIC  TEXT  |
  X   | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | TELCOM   |
   '==' ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ |  |
  |__|
 /+ + + + + + +/ |
    /: : : : : : :/ /
  /.:.:.:.:.:.:.:/ /
  |__|/

Ken

I think Birt was making a point that it has been done with another 
device with similar display output. I know the gameboy color has fresh 
new screens you can buy that plug right into the original molding and 
gives the system new life. Hell, you can buy brand new aluminum cases 
for the thing. If those games were intersting to me, i'd pick up the 
material do it myself.


I'm sort of surprised the retro community hasn't grabbed onto the trs-80 
laptops similar to the C64. I know the commodore was way more popular 
back in the day, and in this day and age, you can make a fresh new 
commodore 64 sans two chips with off-the-shelf components and a modded 
microcontroller to emulate the sid chip, fresh new PCB printed, and 
external case made from the original moldings.


I wish there was more interest in this device to do something similar. 
It would be so nice to have a backlit display, especially in 
environments like a cafe.

Re: [M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

Last time I spoke to someone, years ago, about my 100 with some display 
lines being dead. I think we discovered that it was one of the driver 
chips that failed. Anyway, it's sitting in my closet since I have a 200.


I wouldn't mind modding a 200 if a modern backlit display could fit in 
the same hole and use the same connectors. This would make the mod 
reversible.


On 2/1/23 13:33, Cedric Amand wrote:
The problem with such experimentation is to find a source of cheap 
enough m200 to tinker with …
As much as I would like to do plenty of experiments ; I’m often 
stopped by the rarity of the devices ; or their price .

More and more I’m limiting myself to repairs.
Also some consider “retro mod” to be an abomination, so there is that 
too .


Sometimes I read on forums people saying have a stack of this and that 
; these are the ones who should be starting such experiments if they 
have access to heaps of retro hardware.



Daniel L  1 févr. 2023, 22:12:56 wrote:

Has anyone explored a backlight solution for the 200? i'm going to go 
through the archive to see.

Re: [M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

Even if it's a LED strip attached to its own battery I'd go with it, but 
would such a thing work? I am not experienced with any modding unless 
you cound replacing capacitors.


I have a hard time reading the display when using it in places other 
than my house, outside. I use my 200 alot.


On 2/1/23 13:33, Cedric Amand wrote:
The problem with such experimentation is to find a source of cheap 
enough m200 to tinker with …
As much as I would like to do plenty of experiments ; I’m often 
stopped by the rarity of the devices ; or their price .

More and more I’m limiting myself to repairs.
Also some consider “retro mod” to be an abomination, so there is that 
too .


Sometimes I read on forums people saying have a stack of this and that 
; these are the ones who should be starting such experiments if they 
have access to heaps of retro hardware.



Daniel L  1 févr. 2023, 22:12:56 wrote:

Has anyone explored a backlight solution for the 200? i'm going to go 
through the archive to see.

[M100] Backlight

[Daniel L]

Has anyone explored a backlight solution for the 200? i'm going to go 
through the archive to see.

Re: [M100] Subjective poll on M100 "dialob box"

[Daniel L]

Honestly, I like them both equally.

Yes, I suck.

Daniel

On 1/9/23 16:44, Ken Pettit wrote:

Hey gang,

I'm curious which of the two "dialog box" options people think look 
better between the two shown in the attached diagram.  These were 
coded up in BASIC, but I'm thinking of using it in an ASM program.


Ken

Re: [M100] New user (Hello!). Programming Tandy 102 without Basic?

[Daniel L]

Welcome to the list and welcome to your ownership. I wanted one in the 
late 80s so I could connect to bbs's from bed.


I have two 100s and a 200. None of them work at the moment.

On 1/2/23 16:44, DJCC wrote:

Hi there!

I've been dreaming about getting a Tandy 102 for forty years and I 
just recently got two (!!!) for a decent price on eBay.


I'm a programmer by trade and like the idea of writing something for 
it. What does the toolchain look like nowadays for building Tandy 
100/102 programs in assembly? Or, if I'm dreaming, in C?


Searching the archives, I've found http://www.sdc.org/~goosey/ with 
dev resources. Are there others that might be interesting?


Thanks!
djcc

Re: [M100] Model 200 repair video

[Daniel L]

Just finished. Great video as usual.

On December 24, 2022 5:07:12 AM PST, bir...@soigeneris.com wrote:
>Hi all,
>
> 
>
>In this video we take a look at a Model 200 with an interesting problem. It
>turns itself on and you can't turn it off. Once off you can't turn it back
>on again. This was an interesting problem, and I get thrown off track a bit
>at first. We get there in the end with a very simple solution.
>
>https://youtu.be/66DIgwN0wvM
>
> 
>
>Merry Christmas,
>
>Jeff Birt
>

Re: [M100] New article on the Bitchin100 wiki... peeking Option ROM Space

[Daniel L]

On 12/23/22 13:23, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:



On Thu, Dec 22, 2022 at 5:10 PM MikeS  wrote:

Great article, especially for learning different techniques.


Thanks Mike.

A few years back I needed some extra RAM for a small database so I
cobbled together a poor man's REX; just a 32K RAM chip piggybacked
on the system ROM with a couple of flying leads for /WE, /CE etc.
Functionally it's a clone of EME's ExtRAM, compatible with all its
tools and utilities to load/save/dump/swap/etc. memory, load &
save files and, yes, PEEK and POKE the OptROM memory space.
As the database grew I started on a 4MB bank switched version
along the lines of the XR4 but then Steve came out with the 4MB
CP/M device; in the end I finally moved it to a PC anyway ;-)


Good stuff :-) Nice to have systems on a scale and simplicity where 
it's actually possible to DIY a hardware solution. Though, yeah the PC 
doesn't have the limitations to solve.


-- John.


The skills of the enthusiasts on this list amaze me.

Re: [M100] test

[Daniel L]

Thanks man and Merry Christmas.

I'm finishing a project of refreshing a tape deck i bought at goodwill a 
few weeks back. Once she's on her feet and playing tapes again, I"m 
going to get started on my 100 to see why it doesn't function, and why 
my 200 suddenly stopped functioning one day while creating a blog post. 
so frustrating.


And maybe i'll pull out a trs-80 tape drive and finish fixing it up. My 
projects have been stacking up. I'm so bad.


Daniel

On 12/23/22 13:27, John R. Hogerhuis wrote:


And of course welcome back to the list Daniel. Sometimes it happens... 
you address an email broadly, two possibilities... it seems like 
everyone responds or no one responds. Sometimes we're just trying not 
to respond all at once :-)


-- John.

Re: [M100] test

[Daniel L]

Cool forgot about that feature. In the past, I was self hosting my email 
server at home and was constantly being added to spamlists by the big 
mail networks out there because they don't like people self-hosting anymore.


I had to resign self hosting and get a host to manage my mail services. 
Sometimes my email could still land in spam traps.


On 12/23/22 07:54, RETRO Innovations wrote:

On 12/23/2022 4:17 AM, Daniel L wrote:


hehe thanks. I posted a greeting the other day and no one replied so 
I began to wonder.


On 12/23/22 02:10, James Zeun wrote:
I can confirm with 100% confidence that I did not receive your 
message asking if I had received your message. I hope this answers 
the question I didn't see you ask 


On Fri, 23 Dec 2022, 9:26 am Daniel L,  wrote:

Is my message making it to the list?


Daniel

Given all of the current reasons email could potentially not be 
delivered, as a general rule, when I send a msg to any list that does 
not appear to make it, I surf over to the list archives and check:


http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/

Looks like your msg came through on Dec 11:

http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/2022-December/056135.html


--
RETRO Innovations, Contemporary Gear for Classic Systems
www.go4retro.com
store.go4retro.com

Re: [M100] test

[Daniel L]

hehe thanks. I posted a greeting the other day and no one replied so I 
began to wonder.


On 12/23/22 02:10, James Zeun wrote:
I can confirm with 100% confidence that I did not receive your message 
asking if I had received your message. I hope this answers the 
question I didn't see you ask 


On Fri, 23 Dec 2022, 9:26 am Daniel L,  wrote:

Is my message making it to the list?


Daniel

[M100] test

[Daniel L]

Is my message making it to the list?


Daniel

[M100] Wiring

[Daniel L]

When replacing wiring, does it matter if I use a slightly larger gauge 
wire to replace it? For instance, if I have some flimsy old wiring 
that's 0.0350 inches in diameter (roughly 19 awg), would it effect the 
hardware if I replace it with 16 awg?

[M100] I'm back

[Daniel L]

Hi folks,

Daniel here. Finally resub'd. I had major issues. First, I was 
self-hosting my email domain at home. This led to my domain going into 
spam lists because the major players out there don't want people 
managing their own email these days.


I started using my daily BBS to obtain my mails but, the sysop wasn't 
managing the BBS for a long time and issues led to a discontinuation of 
email receipts.


Laziness set in.

Okay, I'm back.

I have two model 100's and a 200. Bought the 200 from a member on this 
list a number of years back. I haven't used it in a long time becuase 
shortly after I received it, problems arose.


Now, I have a revived interest in getting it fixed.

What have I been up to? Tons of work, flying, family obligations, and 
exploring my love of cigars.


It's good to be back with yall fine individuals.

Anyone subscribe to any tandy related newsgroups? BBS's?

Daniel