[MBZ] Bumper sticker we all need
http://www.prankplace.com/stickers9.htm It is the ultipenultimate next to next to last on the page -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
Re: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay?
Message: 8 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:03:39 -0500 From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Why the heck does the 85 300D/SD have a KLIMA relay like the later 603's etc? Its a different relay of course but I dont understand why it would have one. Anyways, the one on my 85 is bad so I am looking for another one, anybody got one laying around they want to sell? I've been wondering whether mine is bad. A while back when I had the 300D converted to R134a the mechanic wired another relay in that turned on the aux fan whenever the compressor came on. Fine by me, but after I replaced the compressor this time the clutch has started cutting in and out rapidly after it has been running for a while, and the aux fan with it. The new relay chatters in time with this. I can't figure out what is going on - I replaced the silver ice cube relay since it was getting too hot to touch but no change. I suppose the new relay could be bad but it seems to work OK when I test it. I am wondering if the big Klima relay is going. Anyone have any ideas? (I would like to rewire the aux fan so that it comes on only when the car's speed drops below say 15 mph - is there any usable signal to wire to the relay to make this happen? just an idea. I hate it running full blast at speed, seems unnecessary.) Not sure how you wired it, but the combined draw of the aux fan AND the clutch is likely too much for one relay - the aux fan draws a lot of current. Why not just have the fan come on when high side temperature reaches 50-60 deg. C. the way it was designed to work? Marshall >-- I am not sure how the mechanic wired it. I'd like to put it back the way it was beause I don't think the aux fan does much except when sitting in traffic and is nothing but a power drain on the highway. It looks like he wired in another relay but I am going to have to figure out the original wiring. What exactly does the ice cube relay control? Is it just the aux fan? Josh 85 300D 79 280SE 84 500SEL
[MBZ] http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/
FYI: http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/ is back on line Paul Visalia, CA 1985 300TD-T "Mommy Wagon" 1984 300D-T "Hot Rod" PaulRaheb(at)comcast.net
Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper Linkage
Joe Mendyka wrote: Howdy all- I've been battling with a windshield wiper problem for almost a year now. One of the ball joints that connects to the driverside wiper is worn out. Judging by the comments I've read on here, that seems to be cause for a whole new linkage. Is this correct? Are there any other options?Also, if I buy the part new, should I take it to a shop to replace or can I do it myself? I know that if it's not done properly it will cause the wipers to not operate correctly (I found this out first hand). Are there measures I can take myself to ensure that it is done correctly? Thanks for the help. -Joe Mendyka Makes it easier to give you useful advice if you told us waht YEAR and MODEL car you had! I'd look for a used wiper mechanism. A new one will be expensive. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
RE: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
Thanks again for the input. I hope it looks good on the next inspection 'cause I want it. Randy
RE: [MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 31 re: outside temp gauge
I would just remember what the temp was when I got in the car or roll down my window for $500.00. That is why I don't own anything newer than 1981! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 2:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 31 re: outside temp gauge Rusty; I probably stopped listening at the word "hundred," and he may well have said: "five hundred plus." Hard to believe that anything involving a commodity LED would be so expensive, but I don't know what else is involved in it. Any other solutions? Junkyard/used? Joseph
[MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 31 re: outside temp gauge
Rusty; I probably stopped listening at the word "hundred," and he may well have said: "five hundred plus." Hard to believe that anything involving a commodity LED would be so expensive, but I don't know what else is involved in it. Any other solutions? Junkyard/used? Joseph --- Begin Message --- Today's Topics: 1. RE: Advice for potential purchaser?? (R A Bennell) 2. Re: Blinker (Marshall Booth) 3. Re: What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system (dave walton) 4. Re: 85 300D, KLIMA relay? and what does it do (Marshall Booth) 5. Re: 123 Ign lock Q (Loren Faeth) 6. Re: 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change (Dave Wakin) 7. Re: did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? (John Ervine) 8. Re: 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change (Marshall Booth) 9. Outside temp gauge 1994 E500 ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 10. RE: Outside temp gauge 1994 E500 (Rusty Cullens) 11. Re: What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system (Kaleb C. Striplin) 12. Re: Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C (Russ Maki) 13. Re: Advice for potential purchaser?? (Steve MacSween) 14. Re: Advice for potential purchaser?? (redghost) 15. Re: 85 300D, KLIMA relay? and what does it do (David Brodbeck) --- Begin Message --- Thanks to all for your input. I am concerned about rust that may have been "repaired" as it has had a recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look underneath before I make any deal on it. The trunk looks good under the mat but has been recently sprayed with a black undercoat type material. I will take a magnet with and check for plastic filler in the spots suggested and will have a good look under the fenders. The headliner is stained a bit around the dome type lights both front and back. Does that indicate leakage from the sunroof or is there another possible explanation? The driver's seat is a bit soft. There is a small hole in the middle of the seat where a spring punched it. I assume something has been done to avoid further problems with that spring but the seat could likely use some work. Is it difficult or expensive to repair? I assume the seat cover is available for a price. The air conditioning parts appear to be there but it does not work. The "cover" in the middle of the dash which I assume is over a speaker seems a bit damaged by time. A panel of some sort below the glove box appeared loose on the right edge. Apart from that, the interior seems reasonably good for the age of the car. The automatic transmission seems to stay in the lower gears unless one backs off on the throttle - then it shifts quite nicely - a bit hard perhaps. I didn't drive it like I stole it as the owner was with me and I didn't want to appear to abuse his car. The transmission didn't appear to slip or anything bad - it just seemed willing to stay in a lower gear unless I lifted a bit and let it shift. Is that normal or does it indicate a need for adjustment or a potential issue to be dealt with? I drove it to about 65 mph on the bypass and then into the city and around a few blocks with stop signs etc. It didn't miss a beat. All in all, it appeared pretty decent for a 30 year old car. I'm told it had a soft life but one never knows. I don't know the current owner personally. He tells me he is the 3rd owner. He tells me it has 100K miles on it. The first was a doctor who kept it a long time and supposedly did not drive it in winter. The second owner was the doctor's barber who ended up with it after providing storage for it for a few years in a heated parking garage at his apartment building. The current owner has only had it 4 years and has only driven it about 1K miles. He owns an aluminum boat building company and has kept it in the factory building since he got it as he has nowhere to keep it at home. He wishes to sell it because he is just not using it. The tires are Michelin and were new on it 4 years ago. The battery was also new 4 years ago. The current owner has replaced the short lines from one injector to the next that are overflow? I wondered how robust the starter or battery might be as it did not really sound powerful to me. I have no experience with this however so I don't know what to expect. It had been started and moved outside when I got there to look at it but I did have to cycle the glow plugs to start it the first time. I shut if off and restarted it when we got back from the test drive and it fired right up when warm. I guess the big issue is rust. I will have to see what it looks like underneath to ensure it is not just another old heap. Randy --- End Message --- --- Begin Message --- Stuart Saxonberg wrote: Hi, everybody. Lately, the flasher on my 300D (w115, 1976) will, after a period of normal blinking, start to blink rapidly. This first manifested after a general fixup and renewal of the electrical stuff, so I'm thinking that maybe it's just getting old and can't handle getting full power, and was fine with the voltage drop my bad wiring threw
[MBZ] Windshield Wiper Linkage
Howdy all- I've been battling with a windshield wiper problem for almost a year now. One of the ball joints that connects to the driverside wiper is worn out. Judging by the comments I've read on here, that seems to be cause for a whole new linkage. Is this correct? Are there any other options?Also, if I buy the part new, should I take it to a shop to replace or can I do it myself? I know that if it's not done properly it will cause the wipers to not operate correctly (I found this out first hand). Are there measures I can take myself to ensure that it is done correctly? Thanks for the help. -Joe Mendyka
Re: [MBZ] squeaky something
On the side that was causing the problem, yes the hub is only slightly warm after a 10 mile trip. Didn't check the other side, I still suspect some brake drag as the pads I put on last summer are down about 40%. The calipers move freely. Hoses? Brian from Columbia MO '82 240D 275,8XX - Original Message - From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 1:16 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] squeaky something Brian Baker wrote: The rear hubs on both sides are very hot to the touch after a short trip, (say less than 10 miles). And then later: Loren suggested parking brake dragging. NOPE! Peter said parking brake or time to rebuild caliper. NOPE! It was easier than I thought to fix this problem. While checking out what Loren and Peter said I noticed the half-axle bolt on the passenger side was loose and the half-axle was jiggling around near the hub, (is "jiggling" a good automotive term?) I tightened and torqued the bolt, and now I have no more squeaky something. Did the rear hubs cool down?? Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] squeaky something
Brian Baker wrote: The rear hubs on both sides are very hot to the touch after a short trip, (say less than 10 miles). And then later: Loren suggested parking brake dragging. NOPE! Peter said parking brake or time to rebuild caliper. NOPE! It was easier than I thought to fix this problem. While checking out what Loren and Peter said I noticed the half-axle bolt on the passenger side was loose and the half-axle was jiggling around near the hub, (is "jiggling" a good automotive term?) I tightened and torqued the bolt, and now I have no more squeaky something. Did the rear hubs cool down?? Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
RE: [MBZ] Outside temp gauge 1994 E500
For just the LCD? Any brains circuitry? I have heard of custom LCD's being built if a large enough order is put in. Similar problem with a lexus climate control LCD display... guy ordered a couple hundred and sold them for about $10-20 (if memory serves correctly, either way it was cheap). Somebody could have some VERY nice markup when the comparable part is $300 wholesale. John '79 300SD On Wed, 6 Jul 2005, Rusty Cullens wrote: The part alone retails for $510.00. If your mechanic can do it for "several" hundred, that sounds like a real bargain. My cost is over $300.00. I would love to know his source. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 12:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Outside temp gauge 1994 E500 The outside temp gauge in my 1994 E500 rarely works, and when it does, it does so intermittently, or only shows partial numbers. My mechanic assures me that the problem is not the sensor in the front bumper, but the read-out gauge itself. Replacement cost including labor is estimated at several hundred dollars. This is not an essential item, and for several hundred dollars, I can guess at the outside temperature (which in Los Angeles doesn't vary all that much anyway), but if someone has some information on this, I would appreciate hearing. Many thanks, Joseph ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] squeaky something
Loren suggested parking brake dragging. NOPE! Peter said parking brake or time to rebuild caliper. NOPE! It was easier than I thought to fix this problem. While checking out what Loren and Peter said I noticed the half-axle bolt on the passenger side was loose and the half-axle was jiggling around near the hub, (is "jiggling" a good automotive term?) I tightened and torqued the bolt, and now I have no more squeaky something. Thanks Loren and Peter for responding. - Original Message - From: Loren Faeth To: Mercedes mailing list Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 6:14 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] squeaky something Parking brake dragging?
Re: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? and what does it do
Josh Poage wrote: after I replaced the compressor this time the clutch has started cutting in and out rapidly after it has been running for a while, and the aux fan with it. The new relay chatters in time with this. In my experience, chattering relays are often a symptom of a bad ground somewhere. Maybe you knocked the ground wire for the new relay loose when you replaced the compressor?
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
Starting issue may just be tired battery not up to charge, so a weak starting after glow sucks juice. More driving will get it back up to snuff for a few more years... maybe. If it has spent most of its life just stored, should be ok. Going to have to drive it hard to get it back into shape though. You will find it gets happier with more miles of high temp driving. The discoloration around the cabin lights is pretty normal. Every old car I have seen at the pick and pull had some brownish ring around the cover. This on white or light color headliners. No rust in the area I have seen, must be some reaction to air. On Wednesday, July 6, 2005, at 10:40 AM, R A Bennell wrote: Thanks to all for your input. I am concerned about rust that may have been "repaired" as it has had a recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look underneath before I make any deal on it. The trunk looks good under the mat but has been recently sprayed with a black undercoat type material. I will take a magnet with and check for plastic filler in the spots suggested and will have a good look under the fenders. The headliner is stained a bit around the dome type lights both front and back. Does that indicate leakage from the sunroof or is there another possible explanation? The driver's seat is a bit soft. There is a small hole in the middle of the seat where a spring punched it. I assume something has been done to avoid further problems with that spring but the seat could likely use some work. Is it difficult or expensive to repair? I assume the seat cover is available for a price. The air conditioning parts appear to be there but it does not work. The "cover" in the middle of the dash which I assume is over a speaker seems a bit damaged by time. A panel of some sort below the glove box appeared loose on the right edge. Apart from that, the interior seems reasonably good for the age of the car. The automatic transmission seems to stay in the lower gears unless one backs off on the throttle - then it shifts quite nicely - a bit hard perhaps. I didn't drive it like I stole it as the owner was with me and I didn't want to appear to abuse his car. The transmission didn't appear to slip or anything bad - it just seemed willing to stay in a lower gear unless I lifted a bit and let it shift. Is that normal or does it indicate a need for adjustment or a potential issue to be dealt with? I drove it to about 65 mph on the bypass and then into the city and around a few blocks with stop signs etc. It didn't miss a beat. All in all, it appeared pretty decent for a 30 year old car. I'm told it had a soft life but one never knows. I don't know the current owner personally. He tells me he is the 3rd owner. He tells me it has 100K miles on it. The first was a doctor who kept it a long time and supposedly did not drive it in winter. The second owner was the doctor's barber who ended up with it after providing storage for it for a few years in a heated parking garage at his apartment building. The current owner has only had it 4 years and has only driven it about 1K miles. He owns an aluminum boat building company and has kept it in the factory building since he got it as he has nowhere to keep it at home. He wishes to sell it because he is just not using it. The tires are Michelin and were new on it 4 years ago. The battery was also new 4 years ago. The current owner has replaced the short lines from one injector to the next that are overflow? I wondered how robust the starter or battery might be as it did not really sound powerful to me. I have no experience with this however so I don't know what to expect. It had been started and moved outside when I got there to look at it but I did have to cycle the glow plugs to start it the first time. I shut if off and restarted it when we got back from the test drive and it fired right up when warm. I guess the big issue is rust. I will have to see what it looks like underneath to ensure it is not just another old heap. Randy ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I am concerned about rust that may have been "repaired" as it has had a > recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look > underneath before I make any deal on it. Absolutely. > The trunk looks good under the mat > but has been recently sprayed with a black undercoat type material. That is commonly done following accident repairs to the trunk area, where the floor has buckled. OTOH, if it was done to cover up surface rust repair, it was a dumb move as AFAIK no rust-stop undercoat exists, all it will be doing is covering the problem. > I will take a magnet with and check for plastic filler in the spots > suggested and will have a good look under the fenders. CAREFULLY run your fingers around the fender lips. Sharp edges or weld seams or permanent lumps (try flaking it off to make sure it isn't dried-on mud) indicate repair. > The headliner is stained a bit around the dome type lights both front and > back. Does that indicate leakage from the sunroof or is there another > possible explanation? Probably a bit of a leak, but on a car of that age I would not worry about it unless there are big watermarks on the headliner. Sunroof seals are one of those jobs that looks deceptively simple, until you have the 'pleasure' of doing them. > The driver's seat is a bit soft. There is a small hole in the middle of the > seat where a spring punched it. Normal complaint with older Benzes. Those seats are like an old-style armchair, with a pad over a spring box. The pads deteriorate over time, eventually allowing a spring to punch through to the seat cover. The spring box can be bought, or you can tie off the springs to align them, then buy a new pad and seat cover. If you are a cheap SOB like the rest of us, you can improvise some dense upholstery foam or carpet underpad for the pad, but you have to be careful or you end up with a lumpy seat that looks weird. > The air conditioning parts appear to be there but it does not work. You didn't REALLY think it would, did ya :-)? > I drove it to about 65 mph > on the bypass and then into the city and around a few blocks with stop signs > etc. It didn't miss a beat. Listen, I've read everything you had to say. Assuming the body is not bondoed up and it looks reasonably good underneath, I would be dancing a jig if I test drove any car that age with those complaints. > All in all, it appeared pretty decent for a 30 year old car. I'm told it had > a soft life but one never knows. You never really will. On older cars like that, you don't sweat it. > I wondered how robust the starter or battery might be as it did not really > sound powerful to me. That is a valid concern, as diesels have to turn quite fast on the starter -- more of an issue when the cars get older. But both are easily addressed, the first thing to check would be the integrity of the ground for the starter and the condition of the battery (including the cleanliness of the battery terminals). If the car has been sitting a long time, the battery is probably weak to indifferent at best anyway. Make sure the car is absolutely 'cold' when you go to start it next. If you need two glows to start it at this time of year, I would suspect that you either have weak glow plugs (common) or a compression issue, or a very slow starter in combination with one of the other issues. HOWEVER, if you found that the car performed well on the road, I would not worry about the compression. A quick and dirty (literally, don't wear a dress shirt when you do this) check is to remove the oil filler cap with the engine running and see how much smoke comes out (careful, as oil will spray out from the cam as well). If you get a cloud, then you have an issue. If it looks more like someone exhaling a polite drag from a cigarette, things are prolly ok. Hope this helps, Mac
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months ago-though it would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine when sitting still, and would start out, but would max out at about 20-25 MPH and simply not go any faster. This is when I decided to start with the carbs, as it had been sitting for four or five years. I'm just inclined to suspect the ignition on these cars. When it was running, what did it do when you got to 25 mph? Did it want to shift at that point? Did it choke/cough/sputter? Or did you just lose power? Did it ping or backfire when you tried to climb a hill? I'd pull the battery to inspect the connections at the ignition module below it. Make sure the wiring and connections are intact and clean. Battery acid can eat 'em up!. Are there two black boxes on the passenger fender and a couple vacuum solenoids? They retard the timing at low RPM/cold engine temps. I doubt that a malfunction there could keep you from exceeding 25mph, but it could contribute to a cumulative effect. I'll tell you the driving symptoms I had with one malfunctioning idle cutoff solenoid, which was on the rear carb: The car would idle OK with the front carb's throttle adjusted so it was cracked open a bit. While maintaining 30 mph or so the car would surge slightly. On the highway you wouldn't know there was a problem -- it would cruise at 80 without complaint. With two non-functional solenoids, the car will not idle. You'll probably get it firing by pumping the throttle but it won't stay lit. You can check the remaining "wired" solenoid on your car with a voltmeter. Hook it up in the solenoid circuit (there should be an easy-to-access connector in the line) and turn the ignition on. You should get battery voltage or close to it. If it's not drawing voltage, it's dead. Good luck Russ
Re: [MBZ] What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system
Its the same as duracool, or is supposed to be. I have tried duracool but not the new name. The last batch of duracool I got must have been bad or something as it didnt work worth a darn. dave walton wrote: Checkout: http://duracoolky.com/ I've used their HC-22 product to top off industrial cooling units. So far, so good. I have not yet tried their HC-12a product. -Dave Walton On 7/5/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Dave M. wrote: Hi all, My friend has a W124 with no A/C. I pressed the schrader valve and there is still some pressure in the system, so it's not empty. I shorted the low pressure switch and the compressor runs, and there are bubbles (or something) visible in the sight glass. I did not have my manifold gauges with me to test pressures. I assume the system is low on R-12 at the moment. I hate to feed it precious R-12 just to have it leak out. I don't have a vacuum pump, so I really don't want to open the system. Is there anything I can feed in that will be compatible with R-12 (and cheap1), or am I stuck either taking the gamble (add R-12) or having to discharge, vacuum, and re-fill with a mineral-oil compatible replacement like Duracool, AutoFrost, or good 'ol R-12? He's on a tight (read: zero) budget but sure would like some cool air if possible. Suggestions welcome... :-) If you come up with a good solution let me know too. I have the same problems (and only three precious cans of R-12). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
RE: [MBZ] Outside temp gauge 1994 E500
The part alone retails for $510.00. If your mechanic can do it for "several" hundred, that sounds like a real bargain. My cost is over $300.00. I would love to know his source. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 12:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Outside temp gauge 1994 E500 The outside temp gauge in my 1994 E500 rarely works, and when it does, it does so intermittently, or only shows partial numbers. My mechanic assures me that the problem is not the sensor in the front bumper, but the read-out gauge itself. Replacement cost including labor is estimated at several hundred dollars. This is not an essential item, and for several hundred dollars, I can guess at the outside temperature (which in Los Angeles doesn't vary all that much anyway), but if someone has some information on this, I would appreciate hearing. Many thanks, Joseph ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Outside temp gauge 1994 E500
The outside temp gauge in my 1994 E500 rarely works, and when it does, it does so intermittently, or only shows partial numbers. My mechanic assures me that the problem is not the sensor in the front bumper, but the read-out gauge itself. Replacement cost including labor is estimated at several hundred dollars. This is not an essential item, and for several hundred dollars, I can guess at the outside temperature (which in Los Angeles doesn't vary all that much anyway), but if someone has some information on this, I would appreciate hearing. Many thanks, Joseph
Re: [MBZ] 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change
Dave Wakin wrote: Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and c class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed to be a "lifetime" fluid. Well, I do not believe in lifetime fluid so I ordered a filter and the special $8/L fluid from Rusty awhile back and finally had a chance to change it this past weekend. The car had about 130K on the original fluid and boy did it look it. I drained the pan first, and almost thought I pulled the oil drain plug by mistake. There was zero evidence the fluid was ever red, as it looked more like old brownish green motor oil. Drained the torque converter and dropped the pan. To my surprise (and delight), the bottom of the pan was very clean and there really wasn't any "gunk" on the bottom. Installed the new filter and re-installed the pan. Also replaced the wire harness adapter while I was under there that is know to wick fluid to the computer. Filled with 4 liters, started the car to refill the converter, then installed another 3.3 L to bring her to the correct level. Ran out of time for a test drive, and still haven't done one, but hopefully all is well. Virtually everyone (even Mercedes) agrees, the fluid in a 722.6 transmission will NOT last the life of the transmission. How long it WILL last is difficult to estimate with any precision. If the car is mostly driven on the highway without any serious overloading then 150-200kmi is certainly possible (I know this as fact) while following a really nasty winter (rocking the car a lot) or pulling a trailer, fluid with less than 30kmi on it can be burned up. As to what fluid to use - until someone accurately details what Mercedes is using, their choice seems wise (especially if it's only a few dollars a qt more then other synthetics). I expect the Mobil 1 ATF will work fine BUT I DO NOT KNOW THAT and following the recent cost estimates to replace a 722.6 transmission, you really don't want to mess one up. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
Dave Wakin wrote: I agree. 20 F is below freezing and doubtfull an automotive's AC is going to produce it. My newer e320 maybe blows 55 F. Well, it *can* happen, but the evap would freeze up. Most AC systems that monitor evap temps would then disable the compressor until the evap thawed out. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi 1980 300TD 163+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi
Re: [MBZ] 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change
I bought a service dipstick for it but didn't use it (yet). From other forums, 7.3L is the magic number. I measured what I drained, and got just about 7. Figured the filter still had some, and my wiring harness had wicked a few tablespoons into the computer (found that over the winter with a no-shift out of first gear). I deciced to fix some rust that was starting on it after the fluid change, and it is still in the garage awaiting paint so I haven'y driven it yet. Once I get it out, I will double check things with the dipstick. Dave W You will notice a difference! When I bought my 98 ML (same trans) it had 123,000 on it and was a little iffy in selecting gears and downshifting. I put Mobil 1 ATF in there, contrary to factory -advise, and have had 14,000 miles of much improved performance. Did your car have a transmission dipstick? Mine did not. I also used about 7 quarts and plan to change it every 30,000 miles.
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Joe, That is the one i want to open. How did you get the face off? Are you saying the little pin I see on the side of the face has to be pulled or drilled to get the face off so it will come apart? TIA Loren At 08:58 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote: Have yet to see a later one, Loren, but if it's anything at all like the one that was in my '80 when I got it it's not really intended to be serviceable in that fashion and has to be drilled out. Rather tedious. http://my.sanbrunocable.com/joeknight/ joe On 7/5/05, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as > opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the > wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere > is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be the > key to disassemble, but I can't get the pin to move with the ksy in any > position, or in or out, and with the paper clip in or out for the outside > lug. Any pointers appreciated. I want to take the wafers out and clean it > good. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? and what does it do
Josh Poage wrote: -- Message: 8 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:03:39 -0500 From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Why the heck does the 85 300D/SD have a KLIMA relay like the later 603's etc? Its a different relay of course but I dont understand why it would have one. Anyways, the one on my 85 is bad so I am looking for another one, anybody got one laying around they want to sell? I've been wondering whether mine is bad. A while back when I had the 300D converted to R134a the mechanic wired another relay in that turned on the aux fan whenever the compressor came on. Fine by me, but after I replaced the compressor this time the clutch has started cutting in and out rapidly after it has been running for a while, and the aux fan with it. The new relay chatters in time with this. I can't figure out what is going on - I replaced the silver ice cube relay since it was getting too hot to touch but no change. I suppose the new relay could be bad but it seems to work OK when I test it. I am wondering if the big Klima relay is going. Anyone have any ideas? (I would like to rewire the aux fan so that it comes on only when the car's speed drops below say 15 mph - is there any usable signal to wire to the relay to make this happen? just an idea. I hate it running full blast at speed, seems unnecessary.) Not sure how you wired it, but the combined draw of the aux fan AND the clutch is likely too much for one relay - the aux fan draws a lot of current. Why not just have the fan come on when high side temperature reaches 50-60 deg. C. the way it was designed to work? Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] What to use as test refrigerant on R-12 system
Checkout: http://duracoolky.com/ I've used their HC-22 product to top off industrial cooling units. So far, so good. I have not yet tried their HC-12a product. -Dave Walton On 7/5/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Dave M. wrote: > > Hi all, > > > > My friend has a W124 with no A/C. I pressed the schrader valve and > > there is still some pressure in the system, so it's not empty. I > > shorted the low pressure switch and the compressor runs, and there are > > bubbles (or something) visible in the sight glass. I did not have my > > manifold gauges with me to test pressures. I assume the system is low > > on R-12 at the moment. I hate to feed it precious R-12 just to have it > > leak out. I don't have a vacuum pump, so I really don't want to open > > the system. Is there anything I can feed in that will be compatible > > with R-12 (and cheap1), or am I stuck either taking the gamble (add > > R-12) or having to discharge, vacuum, and re-fill with a mineral-oil > > compatible replacement like Duracool, AutoFrost, or good 'ol R-12? > > He's on a tight (read: zero) budget but sure would like some cool air > > if possible. Suggestions welcome... > > > > :-) > > > > If you come up with a good solution let me know too. I have the same > problems (and only three precious cans of R-12). > > Marshall > > -- > Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) >"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] > '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 > 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi >Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection > http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Blinker
Stuart Saxonberg wrote: Hi, everybody. Lately, the flasher on my 300D (w115, 1976) will, after a period of normal blinking, start to blink rapidly. This first manifested after a general fixup and renewal of the electrical stuff, so I'm thinking that maybe it's just getting old and can't handle getting full power, and was fine with the voltage drop my bad wiring threw at it. Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. Any suggestions? The flasher interval is largely controlled by the resistance of the lamps. When on lamp goes out (or resistance of the connections to it increease) the interval shortens and the flasher frequency becomes faster. Start by changing the bulbs, and cleaning the sockets and connections. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
RE: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
Thanks to all for your input. I am concerned about rust that may have been "repaired" as it has had a recent paint job. I intend to get it on a hoist and have a better look underneath before I make any deal on it. The trunk looks good under the mat but has been recently sprayed with a black undercoat type material. I will take a magnet with and check for plastic filler in the spots suggested and will have a good look under the fenders. The headliner is stained a bit around the dome type lights both front and back. Does that indicate leakage from the sunroof or is there another possible explanation? The driver's seat is a bit soft. There is a small hole in the middle of the seat where a spring punched it. I assume something has been done to avoid further problems with that spring but the seat could likely use some work. Is it difficult or expensive to repair? I assume the seat cover is available for a price. The air conditioning parts appear to be there but it does not work. The "cover" in the middle of the dash which I assume is over a speaker seems a bit damaged by time. A panel of some sort below the glove box appeared loose on the right edge. Apart from that, the interior seems reasonably good for the age of the car. The automatic transmission seems to stay in the lower gears unless one backs off on the throttle - then it shifts quite nicely - a bit hard perhaps. I didn't drive it like I stole it as the owner was with me and I didn't want to appear to abuse his car. The transmission didn't appear to slip or anything bad - it just seemed willing to stay in a lower gear unless I lifted a bit and let it shift. Is that normal or does it indicate a need for adjustment or a potential issue to be dealt with? I drove it to about 65 mph on the bypass and then into the city and around a few blocks with stop signs etc. It didn't miss a beat. All in all, it appeared pretty decent for a 30 year old car. I'm told it had a soft life but one never knows. I don't know the current owner personally. He tells me he is the 3rd owner. He tells me it has 100K miles on it. The first was a doctor who kept it a long time and supposedly did not drive it in winter. The second owner was the doctor's barber who ended up with it after providing storage for it for a few years in a heated parking garage at his apartment building. The current owner has only had it 4 years and has only driven it about 1K miles. He owns an aluminum boat building company and has kept it in the factory building since he got it as he has nowhere to keep it at home. He wishes to sell it because he is just not using it. The tires are Michelin and were new on it 4 years ago. The battery was also new 4 years ago. The current owner has replaced the short lines from one injector to the next that are overflow? I wondered how robust the starter or battery might be as it did not really sound powerful to me. I have no experience with this however so I don't know what to expect. It had been started and moved outside when I got there to look at it but I did have to cycle the glow plugs to start it the first time. I shut if off and restarted it when we got back from the test drive and it fired right up when warm. I guess the big issue is rust. I will have to see what it looks like underneath to ensure it is not just another old heap. Randy
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
R A Bennell wrote: I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around underneath. Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this thing? Advice appreciated. I have never owned one of these. RUST, RUST, RUST! Heater fan! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change
In a message dated 7/6/2005 7:51:01 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and c class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed to be a "lifetime" fluid. Well, I do not believe in lifetime fluid so I ordered a filter and the special $8/L fluid from Rusty awhile back and finally had a chance to change it this past weekend. The car had about 130K on the original fluid and boy did it look it. I drained the pan first, and almost thought I pulled the oil drain plug by mistake. There was zero evidence the fluid was ever red, as it looked more like old brownish green motor oil. Drained the torque converter and dropped the pan. To my surprise (and delight), the bottom of the pan was very clean and there really wasn't any "gunk" on the bottom. Installed the new filter and re-installed the pan. Also replaced the wire harness adapter while I was under there that is know to wick fluid to the computer. Filled with 4 liters, started the car to refill the converter, then installed another 3.3 L to bring her to the correct level. Dave, You will notice a difference! When I bought my 98 ML (same trans) it had 123,000 on it and was a little iffy in selecting gears and downshifting. I put Mobil 1 ATF in there, contrary to factory advise, and have had 14,000 miles of much improved performance. Did your car have a transmission dipstick? Mine did not. I also used about 7 quarts and plan to change it every 30,000 miles. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles
Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon buyers guide needed
JabbaHursty wrote: do the 124s rust up north? i ask this because outside of a few common spots, I am yet to see a 124 with rust. just looking at my 109 and 115 brings up bubbles or rust, my 123s have considerable rust, but my 2 124s show nearly nothing. The rust protection on 124/201s is the best that Mercedes ever provided (in my opinion). Yes they CAN rust - especially in a high salt use area, but it takes considerably longer. The first spot(s) to show rust is/are USUALLY the the sheet metal surrounding the jack sockets. All but one of my cars has had SOME rust around the jack sockets repaired. All of my cars were driven year round in the rust belt. Where MOST 124/201s rust is anywhere they have been repaired! Few shops properly treat the metal (inside or out) after it's repaired and every repair on my cars has show signs of rust within 5-7 years after the repair. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
In a message dated 7/6/2005 5:08:23 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months ago-though it would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine when sitting still, and would start out, but would max out at about 20-25 MPH and simply not go any faster. This is when I decided to start with the carbs, as it had been sitting for four or five years. Michael, Assuming you have fuel to the engine: If there is a condenser (small, cylindrical object, about the size of a 3/4" socket), on or in the distributor, consider it a primary suspect. They are prone to fail with age and/or heat, and will often allow small amounts of power, but break down when asked to fire a cylinder under more load. The Pertronic point elimination project should be on your list of things to do, but a condenser is only about $5. Do not just merely remove it, it's purpose is to store energy in the primary circuit for firing the coil. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles
[MBZ] 722.6 Tranny Fluid Change
Those of you familiar with the 722.6 tranny (used in I believe all e and c class cars 96 - ??, for sure in my 97 e320) know the fluid is supposed to be a "lifetime" fluid. Well, I do not believe in lifetime fluid so I ordered a filter and the special $8/L fluid from Rusty awhile back and finally had a chance to change it this past weekend. The car had about 130K on the original fluid and boy did it look it. I drained the pan first, and almost thought I pulled the oil drain plug by mistake. There was zero evidence the fluid was ever red, as it looked more like old brownish green motor oil. Drained the torque converter and dropped the pan. To my surprise (and delight), the bottom of the pan was very clean and there really wasn't any "gunk" on the bottom. Installed the new filter and re-installed the pan. Also replaced the wire harness adapter while I was under there that is know to wick fluid to the computer. Filled with 4 liters, started the car to refill the converter, then installed another 3.3 L to bring her to the correct level. Ran out of time for a test drive, and still haven't done one, but hopefully all is well. Dave W 82 300SD 90 300TE 97 E320
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
I agree. 20 F is below freezing and doubtfull an automotive's AC is going to produce it. My newer e320 maybe blows 55 F. Dave W Maybe 20 degrees Celsius? Otherwise, horsefeathers.. Richard
Re: [MBZ] Diffuser temps in the 40's still may not cut it!
On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am currently looking at the blower circuit on my 116 after finding that the maximum voltage reaching the blower is 9 VOLTS, this with the engine running and about 13 .5 volts at the alternator. Air flow is way down. I ran a heavy jumper from the alternator block to the fan connector and that baby really took off. So I know there is room for improvement. Something that might be worth doing would be to short the blower resistors. I have no idea how they would fail. I also think that there is always a resistor inline with the fan except when in DEF. I'd have to look at a schematic again though... building big resistance. I think this failure occurred shortly after I bragged up how good my system was running to JER Woops! At least it still blows cold air! John '79 300SD
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
Is this 20 deg C ? On 7/5/05, Ali Al-Abbasi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge > after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very > sceptical about how bad R-134 is. > > > >From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? > >Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 > > > >Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > >>Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this > >>year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D > >>and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent > >>temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that > >>before. > > > >Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. > > > >-- > >John L. Ervine > >1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi > >1980 300TD 163+kmi > >1980 300SD 277+kmi > > > >___ > >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > >For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D
Re: [MBZ] Diffuser temps in the 40's still may not cut it!
I have plenty of airflow coming out of the vents. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 7/5/2005 4:42:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Kaleb and all, All this talk about temperature drops is irrelevant unless the air volume is taken into consideration. Consider that an evaporator coil, clogged with leaves and trash, will naturally exhibit a colder leaving temperature at your nozzles. So just having cold air will not be satisfactory if your volume of air is down. Also, when you compare, you must take into consideration what the inlet temperature is to lyour evaporator. Here in Phoenix, when I start the car and it is 130 inside, I will be tickled if it comes out of the nozzles at 80 degrees initially. A 40 to 50 degree drop across the coil is about all you can hope for with acceptable air volume. If I am on recirc, I know the air will gradually get colder on each pass that it makes through the evaporator coil. I am currently looking at the blower circuit on my 116 after finding that the maximum voltage reaching the blower is 9 VOLTS, this with the engine running and about 13 .5 volts at the alternator. Air flow is way down. I ran a heavy jumper from the alternator block to the fan connector and that baby really took off. So I know there is room for improvement. The servo was bench tested and runs cleanly to the end of travel, both ways. I suspect the climate control push button switch has begun melt down and is building big resistance. I think this failure occurred shortly after I bragged up how good my system was running to JER Never, ever brag about how good something is working without copious amounts of wood to knock! Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Have yet to see a later one, Loren, but if it's anything at all like the one that was in my '80 when I got it it's not really intended to be serviceable in that fashion and has to be drilled out. Rather tedious. http://my.sanbrunocable.com/joeknight/ joe On 7/5/05, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as > opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the > wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere > is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be the > key to disassemble, but I can't get the pin to move with the ksy in any > position, or in or out, and with the paper clip in or out for the outside > lug. Any pointers appreciated. I want to take the wafers out and clean it > good.
Re: [MBZ] Radio thoughts?
If you want a new CD player unit, buy a $100 one, they don't have all the "features" to match the LED windshield squirters, underbody neon, etc. Most of them work quite fine, and I think have the same guts in them as the $300 units. If they crap out you buy another one. I have put 3 or 4 of these in various cars, including the TD, they work fine and take maybe an hour or two to install (mostly finding spkr wires). Check the Sunday paper for ads, sometimes you can even get them cheaper. Then get some $50/set speakers, which will be lots better than the originals. More than that price is overwhelmed by the sweet diesel sound. --R John M McIntosh wrote: The 92 300TDt has a nice becker mexico shortware/longwave/AM/FM/ Traffic radio in it. Problem is the lights are burned out, and my wife says it crackles. It's a head unit, with amp in the back. I'm wondering here if I should spend the $$ to have it serviced via becker usa, or replace it? Thoughts on this are welcome, a quick visit to crutchfields showed most choices today require me to get better corrective lenses and attempt to press wee buttons and watch swirling graphics, somehow I'm not in their target purchasing group. John 1983 300TDt 352k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1992 300TDt 144k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1993 500SEL 165k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40) ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
Maybe 20 degrees Celsius? Otherwise, horsefeathers.. Richard --- Ali Al-Abbasi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It stayed like that for a good few years until I sold the car. > In TX summers, I never complained. > > > >From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this > year? > >Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 19:47:59 -0500 > > > >must not have been charged right then, if it gets that cold I would > think > >the evaporator would freeze up. > > > >Ali Al-Abbasi wrote: > > > >>I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and > charge > >>after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I > am very > >>sceptical about how bad R-134 is. > >> > >> > >>>From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this > year? > >>>Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 > >>> > >>>Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > >>> > Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor > swap > this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor > on my > 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES > THIRTYEIGHT > degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have > ever > seen 134 do that before. > >>> > >>> > >>>Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent > temps. > >>> > >>>-- > >>>John L. Ervine > >>>1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi > >>>1980 300TD 163+kmi > >>>1980 300SD 277+kmi > >>> > >>>___ > >>>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > >>>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > >>> > >>>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >>>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>___ > >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > >>For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > >> > >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > >> > >> > >> > > > >-- > >Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK > > 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, > > 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 > >Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts > > > >___ > >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > >For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: > > It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which I > have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the prior > owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it when I > bought it, so I trust them at their word at this point. In a few years, gas can turn into a hard, varnishlike substance. Your carbs may be clogged with this and in need of a good soaking in solvent. Mitch- Sorry-I didn't include this information again, but that was what I just did-removed, cleaned, and rebuilt the carbs. And I don't mean to "poo-poo" this idea, but I di think that sometimes this factor is over-rated! I have truthfully, honestly bought cars that have been sitting for fifteen years, and run them on the gas that was in their tank when I got them. It is very "pre-sitting maintenance," "sitting location" and climate related, but I rarely find one that the gas is so bad that it affects this too much. Now I will also say that I NEVER do this on a "valuable" car, but I am one of those that likes to find some old car sitting in a field and buy it and bring it back to life, so often I am dealing with something that no one thinks can be saved anyway, so it is a "low risk" situation. But please don't get me wrong, I appreciate the advice, and in this car, I think it is very valid advice! Thanks! Michael
RE: [MBZ] ATE Brake Fluid (Blue)
Thanks! -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gerald R. Flintrop Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 9:28 PM To: 'Mercedes mailing list' Subject: [MBZ] ATE Brake Fluid (Blue) Rusty, Late last week, I ordered three liters of ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid from you. Today, it arrived, and in great shape. Thanks again for having what I need, and at a price way under the competition's. Jerry Flintrop ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: > > It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which I > have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the prior > owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it when I > bought it, so I trust them at their word at this point. In a few years, gas can turn into a hard, varnishlike substance. Your carbs may be clogged with this and in need of a good soaking in solvent.
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Russ (et al), Thanks again for the further advice-very helpful and informative! What I can say in the defense of this car is only this-it has only 50K original miles on it, or so I was told, and from looking at many factors on it, I believe, and so the "wear and tear" issue may noe be as strong as in many others. I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months ago-though it would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine when sitting still, and would start out, but would max out at about 20-25 MPH and simply not go any faster. This is when I decided to start with the carbs, as it had been sitting for four or five years. It also supposedly ran fine when parked four or five years prior, which I have come to believe, only because everything else I was told by the prior owners has proven to be true, and they seemed pretty honest about it when I bought it, so I trust them at their word at this point. NOW, the bad news-I am moving cross-country in about four-six weeks, and have LITTLE time to work on this one at this point. I was hoping to get it running to take with me, but I am beginning to doubt my ability to do so. So if your friend wants to drop another $6K into one, I have a deal for him!!! Just kidding-thanks again for your help and advice-it has been very valuable! Michael Joseph Shaw wrote: Uhm To bew honest, Russ, I don't know jack about this ignition set-up yet. But I do know that it starts well when it starts, and does give a good spark when I check at the plugs! Perhaps someone already upgraded the ignition, which, in stock form, has several weak points (hope so). First there's the control unit, which is primitive by 1980 standards and at this point has withstood 35 years of wear and tear. It's location below the battery tray is no help -- connections are often corroded, if not completely eaten away. The distributor cam is another sore spot. It's spring-loaded, and prone to internal wear. I got a rebuilt for my 250 from a renowned MB ignition specialist, the late Randy Durrance, and he told me he had a hard time finding a decent core. I later learned that Randy had started installing Pertronix modules in the old points-style distributors. I was planning to do a conversion when he grew ill. The computer module supersedes any wear in the distributor, if my meager knowledge of vintage igntition serves me (still trying to figure out how that point/coil thing works). Speaking of points, there's a third weak spot. The points on this car are more a relay than a power switch. On my 250 they're a regular source of irritation.If your car absolutely fails to start, I'd check point gap first. Keep in mind that the points do NOT carry spark voltage. You can have a strong spark, right up to the moment where the gap gets too narrow. Then you've got zip. Frankly, I'd rather deal with the ignition system on a '53 Ford. The Ford gives you better warning that things are out of spec. As for the fuel cutoff solenoids, I have more grim news. My favorite MB mechanic, an Adenauer specialist named Albrecht Stachel, tried and failed to locate replacement solenoids for the Zenith carbs here and in Europe. My friend and neighbor Todd Knutson stepped up and delivered a couple solenoids off a used M130. One of the two solenoids off the donor carbs were bad. But one worked! I recall a lister (Don Taylor??) on the veterans list gutting the solenoids with a big drill bit and filling the cans with epoxy as he held the solenoids in the open position. That may be your best bet for a permanent "repair." Hope I'm not too much of a grinch on the 250c, Joseph. The W114 chassis is a sweet driver. A friend of mine blew 6 grand a few years ago on a very nice specimen. I'm not sure he'd do it again. It's a high-maintenance vehicle, even when it's running right. A lot of stuff is simply worn out. Russ
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
the big worry would be rust (thankfully not a big problem here in Oregon), and the heater fan. Where in Oregon are you? Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1978 300D 132K miles, Ingrid 1978 300CD 200K+ miles, Vinnie, all washed and waxed, finally! 1982 Mazda B2200 diesel pickup, 142K miles, Gopher, just a sittin' around, but soon to go on a dump run, but not too close to the pit or they'll claim it to be TRASH!
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Loren, I found that I could get a lot of dirt and gunk out of the cylinder just by soaking it. I cleaned up two of them about 18 months ago and they still seem to be better than before. I also used compressed air repeatedly to blow out the dirt and cleaner. Don't remember what I used for cleaner, but something like mineral spirits should do. I either used silicone spray or a light coat of white grease. Richard Murdoch 82 240D 82 300TDt 83 300Dt (parts car, no longer rolling) 79 240D waiting for transplant > > From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/07/05 Tue PM 08:59:25 EDT > To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q > > For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as > opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the > wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere > is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be the > key to disassemble, but I can't get the pin to move with the ksy in any > position, or in or out, and with the paper clip in or out for the outside > lug. Any pointers appreciated. I want to take the wafers out and clean it > good. > > Loren > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Loren, I found that I could get a lot of dirt and gunk out of the cylinder just by soaking it. I cleaned up two of them about 18 months ago and they still seem to be better than before. I also used compressed air repeatedly to blow out the dirt and cleaner. Don't remember what I used for cleaner, but something like mineral spirits should do. I either used silicone spray or a light coat of white grease. Richard Murdoch 82 240D 82 300TDt 83 300Dt (parts car, no longer rolling) 79 240D waiting for transplant > > From: Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2005/07/05 Tue PM 08:59:25 EDT > To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q > > For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as > opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the > wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere > is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be the > key to disassemble, but I can't get the pin to move with the ksy in any > position, or in or out, and with the paper clip in or out for the outside > lug. Any pointers appreciated. I want to take the wafers out and clean it > good. > > Loren > > > ___ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For new parts see www.buymbparts.com > For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: Uhm To bew honest, Russ, I don't know jack about this ignition set-up yet. But I do know that it starts well when it starts, and does give a good spark when I check at the plugs! Perhaps someone already upgraded the ignition, which, in stock form, has several weak points (hope so). First there's the control unit, which is primitive by 1980 standards and at this point has withstood 35 years of wear and tear. It's location below the battery tray is no help -- connections are often corroded, if not completely eaten away. The distributor cam is another sore spot. It's spring-loaded, and prone to internal wear. I got a rebuilt for my 250 from a renowned MB ignition specialist, the late Randy Durrance, and he told me he had a hard time finding a decent core. I later learned that Randy had started installing Pertronix modules in the old points-style distributors. I was planning to do a conversion when he grew ill. The computer module supersedes any wear in the distributor, if my meager knowledge of vintage igntition serves me (still trying to figure out how that point/coil thing works). Speaking of points, there's a third weak spot. The points on this car are more a relay than a power switch. On my 250 they're a regular source of irritation.If your car absolutely fails to start, I'd check point gap first. Keep in mind that the points do NOT carry spark voltage. You can have a strong spark, right up to the moment where the gap gets too narrow. Then you've got zip. Frankly, I'd rather deal with the ignition system on a '53 Ford. The Ford gives you better warning that things are out of spec. As for the fuel cutoff solenoids, I have more grim news. My favorite MB mechanic, an Adenauer specialist named Albrecht Stachel, tried and failed to locate replacement solenoids for the Zenith carbs here and in Europe. My friend and neighbor Todd Knutson stepped up and delivered a couple solenoids off a used M130. One of the two solenoids off the donor carbs were bad. But one worked! I recall a lister (Don Taylor??) on the veterans list gutting the solenoids with a big drill bit and filling the cans with epoxy as he held the solenoids in the open position. That may be your best bet for a permanent "repair." Hope I'm not too much of a grinch on the 250c, Joseph. The W114 chassis is a sweet driver. A friend of mine blew 6 grand a few years ago on a very nice specimen. I'm not sure he'd do it again. It's a high-maintenance vehicle, even when it's running right. A lot of stuff is simply worn out. Russ Now, as for those "fuel cutoff selenoids" in the "base of the carburetor," I don;t suppose those are the long, culindrical items that are sticking into the base of the carbs from thew front side with a red wire running to them? If so, that is a new problem...When removing the carbs I accidentally tore one of them, but figured they were something like the choke, and likely I could at least get things running without them working right. Problem is that I broke the wire RIGHT where it goes into the selenoid, and there wasn't even enough remnant wire to try and splice together or anything. SO, next question-where do I find another fuel cutoff selenoid??? THANKS for mentioning this-I thought I could get a ballpark idea of how well it would run without worrying about this, but apparently this may be a problem!!! Michael ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Diffuser temps in the 40's still may not cut it!
In a message dated 7/5/2005 4:42:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Kaleb and all, All this talk about temperature drops is irrelevant unless the air volume is taken into consideration. Consider that an evaporator coil, clogged with leaves and trash, will naturally exhibit a colder leaving temperature at your nozzles. So just having cold air will not be satisfactory if your volume of air is down. Also, when you compare, you must take into consideration what the inlet temperature is to lyour evaporator. Here in Phoenix, when I start the car and it is 130 inside, I will be tickled if it comes out of the nozzles at 80 degrees initially. A 40 to 50 degree drop across the coil is about all you can hope for with acceptable air volume. If I am on recirc, I know the air will gradually get colder on each pass that it makes through the evaporator coil. I am currently looking at the blower circuit on my 116 after finding that the maximum voltage reaching the blower is 9 VOLTS, this with the engine running and about 13 .5 volts at the alternator. Air flow is way down. I ran a heavy jumper from the alternator block to the fan connector and that baby really took off. So I know there is room for improvement. The servo was bench tested and runs cleanly to the end of travel, both ways. I suspect the climate control push button switch has begun melt down and is building big resistance. I think this failure occurred shortly after I bragged up how good my system was running to JER Never, ever brag about how good something is working without copious amounts of wood to knock! Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles
Re: [MBZ] Blinker
In a message dated 7/5/2005 5:23:46 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi, everybody. Lately, the flasher on my 300D (w115, 1976) will, after a period of normal blinking, start to blink rapidly. This first manifested after a general fixup and renewal of the electrical stuff, so I'm thinking that maybe it's just getting old and can't handle getting full power, and was fine with the voltage drop my bad wiring threw at it. Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. Any suggestions? Stewart, Cycle the hazard light switch about 20 times to polish the normally closed contacts therein. The turn signal wiring path is through the hazard switch. If you still have a rapid flash rate, get out and check for a burned out bulb on the side that you are signaling for. A burned out bulb will make the flasher cycle faster, contrary to intuition. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
Kaleb, My W123 with R-134a conversion would also generate 38F (approx) duct temps with 85-90F ambients, especially with the car rolling at 35mph or more. At idle or not moving the temps are higher. And at high ambients (100F+ with low humidity) it's not very good even at freeway speeds. But, yeah, 38F is possible. Where R-12 (or AutoFrost) shines - at least compared to R-134a - is when you're in stop+go traffic and/or it's really REALLY hot outside. :) -dm > -- > Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 18:40:22 -0500 > From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? > > Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap > this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my > 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT > degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever > seen 134 do that before.
[MBZ] Lonely W115 at Craigslist
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/82621774.html --76 300d $1500 Still no french cars -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
RE: [MBZ] mbz.org
Kaleb, I can help with a web site but I need to be careful with my time. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 11:47 AM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: [MBZ] mbz.org Well the word from Rusty is that mbz.org may never be back. So this little list may in fact be the replacment after all. I have not done anything about a website because I didnt want to step on toes or anything regarding mbz.org. If it never does come back up, then I (we) need to look into getting a website up. I really do not know much about that but could learn I suppose. We might need to see if anybody here wants to partner up with me and handle setting up/maintaining a website. Once I know for sure what is going on I can get the space set up for it and then get a site designed. As for the articles and stuff, not sure what all on the old site might be copyrighted or how that would work, but most if it came from list members in the first place. We will probably need to try and rebuild that stuff if possible. Anyways, just stay tuned, will see how it plays out. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Radio thoughts?
The 92 300TDt has a nice becker mexico shortware/longwave/AM/FM/ Traffic radio in it. Problem is the lights are burned out, and my wife says it crackles. It's a head unit, with amp in the back. I'm wondering here if I should spend the $$ to have it serviced via becker usa, or replace it? Thoughts on this are welcome, a quick visit to crutchfields showed most choices today require me to get better corrective lenses and attempt to press wee buttons and watch swirling graphics, somehow I'm not in their target purchasing group. John 1983 300TDt 352k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1992 300TDt 144k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1993 500SEL 165k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
rust. 115s like to rust. At 09:40 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote: I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around underneath. Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this thing? Advice appreciated. I have never owned one of these. Randy ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? and what does it do
-- Message: 8 Date: Mon, 04 Jul 2005 10:03:39 -0500 From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [MBZ] 85 300D, KLIMA relay? To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Why the heck does the 85 300D/SD have a KLIMA relay like the later 603's etc? Its a different relay of course but I dont understand why it would have one. Anyways, the one on my 85 is bad so I am looking for another one, anybody got one laying around they want to sell? I've been wondering whether mine is bad. A while back when I had the 300D converted to R134a the mechanic wired another relay in that turned on the aux fan whenever the compressor came on. Fine by me, but after I replaced the compressor this time the clutch has started cutting in and out rapidly after it has been running for a while, and the aux fan with it. The new relay chatters in time with this. I can't figure out what is going on - I replaced the silver ice cube relay since it was getting too hot to touch but no change. I suppose the new relay could be bad but it seems to work OK when I test it. I am wondering if the big Klima relay is going. Anyone have any ideas? (I would like to rewire the aux fan so that it comes on only when the car's speed drops below say 15 mph - is there any usable signal to wire to the relay to make this happen? just an idea. I hate it running full blast at speed, seems unnecessary.) Josh 85 300D 297k miles 79 280SE 125k miles 84 500SEL 240k miles 82 Fiat Spider 140k miles 86 Honda Rebel 27k miles
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Thing is, I just did a car with no working return line and no working fuel cut off. It seems to run OK.
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
How's the ignition? Does your car have that bastardized semi-electronic/semi-breaker point setup with the control box conveniently located under the battery tray? If so, an aftermarket electronic ignition like a Pertronix would make a big difference. The stock setup is a huge headache. I'd also second the advisory to look at the fuel cutoff solenoids in the carburetor bases. If they aren't energizing, your car will never run right. Russ M Uhm To bew honest, Russ, I don't know jack about this ignition set-up yet. But I do know that it starts well when it starts, and does give a good spark when I check at the plugs! Now, as for those "fuel cutoff selenoids" in the "base of the carburetor," I don;t suppose those are the long, culindrical items that are sticking into the base of the carbs from thew front side with a red wire running to them? If so, that is a new problem...When removing the carbs I accidentally tore one of them, but figured they were something like the choke, and likely I could at least get things running without them working right. Problem is that I broke the wire RIGHT where it goes into the selenoid, and there wasn't even enough remnant wire to try and splice together or anything. SO, next question-where do I find another fuel cutoff selenoid??? THANKS for mentioning this-I thought I could get a ballpark idea of how well it would run without worrying about this, but apparently this may be a problem!!! Michael
[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 2:10 PM To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices Subject: Today's Diesel Prices ** ** ** * **** * * *** U.S. Department of Energy** ** ** * Energy Information Administration * **** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, ** ** ** ** ** * see the message footnotes * * EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. *** ** (NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should be set to view the item in an 80 character format, using a "non-proportional" font, e.g. courier) ** On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD (Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes) Diesel Prices Web URL: http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp US NATL EASTNEWCENTLOWER GULF ROCKY WEST DATEAVG COAST ENGLAND ATL ATL MIDWEST COAST MTN COAST CA PADD PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD PADD I IA IB IC II III IV V -- - - --- - - --- - - - - 050704 2.348 2.370 2.485 2.475 2.315 2.328 2.290 2.328 2.467 2.554 050627 2.336 2.368 2.476 2.461 2.318 2.314 2.288 2.288 2.433 2.522 050620 2.313 2.348 2.442 2.451 2.296 2.294 2.274 2.236 2.391 2.476 050613 2.276 2.308 2.399 2.399 2.261 2.248 2.247 2.210 2.364 2.457 050606 2.234 2.263 2.353 2.343 2.221 2.198 2.213 2.191 2.339 2.421 050530 2.160 2.188 2.320 2.284 2.134 2.111 2.117 2.179 2.317 2.367 050523 2.156 2.181 2.338 2.292 2.119 2.097 2.112 2.207 2.339 2.373 050516 2.189 2.204 2.380 2.315 2.141 2.129 2.141 2.267 2.397 2.432 050509 2.227 2.237 2.389 2.342 2.179 2.157 2.173 2.318 2.481 2.518 050502 2.262 2.264 2.410 2.366 2.207 2.194 2.209 2.355 2.530 2.561 050425 2.289 2.287 2.413 2.382 2.234 2.230 2.231 2.371 2.549 2.570 050418 2.259 2.260 2.418 2.373 2.197 2.194 2.180 2.379 2.554 2.582 050411 2.316 2.306 2.434 2.423 2.244 2.263 2.251 2.399 2.585 2.625 050404 2.303 2.299 2.427 2.412 2.238 2.258 2.240 2.361 2.541 2.581 050328 2.249 2.248 2.374 2.360 2.189 2.203 2.182 2.326 2.483 2.512 050321 2.244 2.245 2.355 2.358 2.186 2.196 2.180 2.313 2.471 2.482 050314 2.194 2.197 2.320 2.309 2.137 2.140 2.130 2.260 2.442 2.418 050307 2.168 2.163 2.288 2.280 2.102 2.113 2.100 2.229 2.450 2.408 050228 2.118 2.117 2.241 2.233 2.056 2.064 2.035 2.174 2.412 2.376 050221 2.020 2.027 2.198 2.154 1.957 1.953 1.943 2.087 2.321 2.259 050214 1.986 2.013 2.197 2.150 1.938 1.935 1.915 2.011 2.190 2.196 050207 1.983 2.025 2.222 2.159 1.950 1.938 1.938 1.967 2.113 2.144 050131 1.992 2.048 2.225 2.172 1.979 1.954 1.940 1.946 2.085 2.126 050124 1.959 2.014 2.180 2.140 1.945 1.928 1.919 1.884 2.027 2.068 050117 1.952 2.009 2.168 2.127 1.944 1.928 1.908 1.877 2.001 2.023 050110 1.934 1.999 2.163 2.133 1.926 1.911 1.876 1.877 1.973 2.014 050103 1.957 2.025 2.180 2.163 1.952 1.929 1.887 1.934 2.011 2.063 041227 1.987 2.045 2.196 2.161 1.982 1.959 1.928 1.961 2.040 2.097 041220 1.984 2.052 2.199 2.171 1.988 1.944 1.922 1.988 2.047 2.087 041213 1.997 2.063 2.206 2.184 1.998 1.953 1.910 2.049 2.097 2.138 041206 2.069 2.111 2.234 2.220 2.053 2.033 1.995 2.124 2.181 2.225 041129 2.116 2.141 2.258 2.252 2.082 2.086 2.053 2.171 2.233 2.287 041122 2.116 2.143 2.258 2.251 2.086 2.083 2.048 2.170 2.242 2.299 041115 2.132 2.159 2.268 2.262 2.105 2.096 2.056 2.215 2.274 2.336 041108 2.163 2.182 2.296 2.278 2.130 2.123 2.096 2.248 2.324 2.386 041101 2.206 2.212 2.330 2.307 2.161 2.172 2.147 2.276 2.370 2.431 041025 2.212 2.213 2.329 2.309 2.161 2.185 2.144 2.278 2.380 2.437 041018 2.180 2.179 2.290 2.267 2.131 2.161 2.115 2.219 2.337 2.394 041011 2.092 2.100 2.212 2.200 2.047 2.055 2.033 2.132 2.276 2.322 041004 2.053 2.058 2.155 2.144 2.013 2.019 2.000 2.065 2.238 2.290 040927 2.012 2.019 2.102 2.092 1.981 1.982 1.971 1.999 2.169 2.236 040920 1.912 1.905 1.988 1.973 1.868 1.882 1.868 1.937 2.088 2.1
RE: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
20 degrees is under charged. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 http://stores.ebay.com/Tom-Hargrave-Sales -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ali Al-Abbasi Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2005 7:48 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very sceptical about how bad R-134 is. >From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? >Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 > >Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: >>Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap >>this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on >>my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent >>temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that >>before. > >Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. > >-- >John L. Ervine >1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi >1980 300TD 163+kmi >1980 300SD 277+kmi > >___ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see >www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Just wanted to thank everyone that has piped in with info and suggestions on this project. I have been being VERY concerned about this thing, and to get a little more input is very valuable. I feel much better about the TON of fuel it is drinking, as someone reminded me that it has an overflow line back to the carb, which it does! So thanks to all! I'll keep you updated on how it goes! Michael In a message dated 7/5/2005 11:33:55 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I will also say that it just GUZZLES gas-like if I fill a pint bottle > of gas and have it hooked up to the pump, by the time the ten-twenty > seconds are over, the bottle is empty. That would equate to a gallon > every 2.5 minutes, which would be 2.5 MPG if travelling at 65 MPH! > > Any suggestions? I have the proper/recommended after-market electric > fuel pump on it, but, again, this si the one that is SUPPOSED to be > the proper one. It had the same problem before I put this pump on it, > but still had an electric-of the same PSI rating. > > It had not been run for about five years prior to me buying it, if > that adds any info of note. Michael, Doesn't that fuel system have a return line back to the tank. That would be where your excess fuel is going. Also, the ones I am familiar with would have a pressure regulator (restrictor) in the return line. If that is not functioning you may not be building enough pressure to overcome the float resistance. Let us know what you find. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 603 block
Hey John Gregg, if I bid on this will you pick it up for me till next time I see you? Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33613&item=7985130119&rd=1 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
[MBZ] 603 block
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33613&item=7985130119&rd=1 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
RE: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
Pretty much what everyone else said; for me, the big worry would be rust (thankfully not a big problem here in Oregon), and the heater fan. The rest of it isn't so hard to deal with; chain stretch, for instance, would be just as much of a possible issue on a 123, I'd imagine, and you can't really check that without getting the valve cover off. If the thing runs tolerably well, the chain stretch isn't fatal, and the chain can be replaced (along with a valve adjustment, which it's pretty likely to need too). As far as my experience goes, everything else is just endemic to 30 year old cars. Seats are almost certainly going to be worn. You'll probably need to replace a lot of rubber to get good sealing. The A/C, if not maintained well, is likely to be bad. On the plus side, the drivetrain is tank-like, as is the body, if it wasn't used anywhere they salt the roads. I like mine. Your mileage, well, will depend on the shape of the car and how much money you're willing to throw at it. It will almost certainly need *some*. Stuart S. 1976 300D (w115) > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2005 18:40:00 -0700 > From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser?? > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to > look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around > underneath. > > Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this > thing? > > Advice appreciated. I have never owned one of these. > > Randy
Re: [MBZ] mbz.org
You should probably ask Barry Hill about all of this.
RE: Re: [MBZ] Blinker
Both sides do it, as near as I can remember - I'll test that tomorrow. I had *somehow* gotten the idea that the 115s didn't have a bad-bulb fast-flash feature (which is why I didn't check explicitly and note if it was one side or both), and I know the bulbs aren't BAD (though might be FAILING) because I checked that first, just in case. I've cleaned the hazard switch within the last year (because of another electrical issue involving my conversion to running-light-flash on the front end, but that's another story and long-since resolved), so I *suspect* it's not the culprit, but I'll try that too. Thanks! Stuart S. > Message: 17 > Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:48:32 -0400 > From: Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Blinker > To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which > > surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. > > Not unusual. Could be a bad bulb or intermittent bad bulb connection, if > only one side does it. If both sides do it, it is the relay, sometimes > pressing the hazard switch down and up once will 'clear' it temporarily. > > It is the same relay, but this is a typical failure mode. Possibly the > hazards continuing to work was designed in as some sort of fail-safe > > Mac >
Re: [MBZ] Advice for potential purchaser??
Rust, rust filled with body putty, structural rust covered with new sheet. Look over the headlights, over the readr wheels, behind the front wheels, (inside the fender), in front of the rear wheels (inside the fender) and in the trunk wells. Anything else is not terminal in most cases. Others can add more info. I drove a 76 240D 5-600 miles when it was so rusty the back fender flapped at every rough spot in the road. It made the trip though. The bumpers had fallen off and i doubt Kaleb would even give $250 for it. Still drove good. At 08:40 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote: I test drove a 76 300D this afternoon. It drove quite nice and I intend to look at it further. I want to get it on a hoist so I can poke around underneath. Is there anything that I should really look for before I agree to buy this thing? Advice appreciated. I have never owned one of these. Randy ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] squeaky something
Dragging parking brakes, or dragging service brakes. Dragging service brakes are usually caused by swollen hoses. Try pushing the caliper pucks in while still on the car. If they won't push in all the way, open the bleeder screw. if they push in then (squirting out fluid) then the hoses are bad. If the calipers push in with the bleeder shut, then most likely your problem is rusty parking brake cables causing the parking brake to drag. Another heat test is if the hub gets hotter than the brake disk, then it it parking. A sticking service brake will cause the disk to be hotter than the hub. At 08:34 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote: Brian: You have dragging rear brakes, it's time for a caliper rebuild. You will get better performance, better milage, and better brakes, as they are not now working correctly. Peter ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Aye, Aye! But this is a low budget cause. I only want to learn how to take apart the cylinder. At 08:38 PM 7/5/2005, you wrote: Loren: I have no idea how to take the lock apart, but if it was sticking, cleaning won't fix it (they tend to go bad around 200,000 miles, more or less). Get a new one, they are only about $70 or so. Take the registration to a dealer or good independent parts supplier and order one from MB, along with a new key. In fact, if you are still using the original key (or a brass replacement), a new key may fix you up with no other effort. $18 last time I bought one, same deal as the cylinder. Peter ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] 1963 190D For Sale Photo
Saw a partially restored 1963 190D "Fintail" for sale outside Waynesville Ohio. Do not know asking price. I have attached photo. If interested and the photo is stripped let me know and I can send directly. Contact No. for 1963 190D is (937) 902-3380. I haven't had the time to stop and take a close look at it. Regards, Robert Massmann Wilmington, Ohio 87 190D 2.5 Turbo 231K? 85 300CD 327K 82 300D 327K 81 VW Rabbit Pickup 210K (Diesel) <>
Re: [MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
Loren: I have no idea how to take the lock apart, but if it was sticking, cleaning won't fix it (they tend to go bad around 200,000 miles, more or less). Get a new one, they are only about $70 or so. Take the registration to a dealer or good independent parts supplier and order one from MB, along with a new key. In fact, if you are still using the original key (or a brass replacement), a new key may fix you up with no other effort. $18 last time I bought one, same deal as the cylinder. Peter
Re: [MBZ] squeaky something
Brian: You have dragging rear brakes, it's time for a caliper rebuild. You will get better performance, better milage, and better brakes, as they are not now working correctly. Peter
[MBZ] ATE Brake Fluid (Blue)
Rusty, Late last week, I ordered three liters of ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid from you. Today, it arrived, and in great shape. Thanks again for having what I need, and at a price way under the competition's. Jerry Flintrop
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
It stayed like that for a good few years until I sold the car. In TX summers, I never complained. From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 19:47:59 -0500 must not have been charged right then, if it gets that cold I would think the evaporator would freeze up. Ali Al-Abbasi wrote: I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very sceptical about how bad R-134 is. From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi 1980 300TD 163+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] 123 Ign lock Q
For a late model 123 ign lock (The one with a face about 3/4 inch dia as opposed to the older 3/8 inch exposed face) I'd like to know how to get the wafers out of the lock. I have the lock out of the car in my hand. THere is a pin on the side, just behind the face that looks like it might be the key to disassemble, but I can't get the pin to move with the ksy in any position, or in or out, and with the paper clip in or out for the outside lug. Any pointers appreciated. I want to take the wafers out and clean it good. Loren
Re: [MBZ] Blinker
Sounds like a bulb failing in the blinker circuit On Tuesday, July 5, 2005, at 05:21 PM, Stuart Saxonberg wrote: Hi, everybody. Lately, the flasher on my 300D (w115, 1976) will, after a period of normal blinking, start to blink rapidly. This first manifested after a general fixup and renewal of the electrical stuff, so I'm thinking that maybe it's just getting old and can't handle getting full power, and was fine with the voltage drop my bad wiring threw at it. Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stuart S. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
must not have been charged right then, if it gets that cold I would think the evaporator would freeze up. Ali Al-Abbasi wrote: I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very sceptical about how bad R-134 is. From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi 1980 300TD 163+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] Blinker
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which > surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. Not unusual. Could be a bad bulb or intermittent bad bulb connection, if only one side does it. If both sides do it, it is the relay, sometimes pressing the hazard switch down and up once will 'clear' it temporarily. It is the same relay, but this is a typical failure mode. Possibly the hazards continuing to work was designed in as some sort of fail-safe Mac
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
I got 20 degrees from R134 from a 92 Saab, no flush, just a vac and charge after changing the expansion valve. This was in a Dallas Summer. I am very sceptical about how bad R-134 is. From: John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year? Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 20:03:07 -0400 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi 1980 300TD 163+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Blinker
Hi, everybody. Lately, the flasher on my 300D (w115, 1976) will, after a period of normal blinking, start to blink rapidly. This first manifested after a general fixup and renewal of the electrical stuff, so I'm thinking that maybe it's just getting old and can't handle getting full power, and was fine with the voltage drop my bad wiring threw at it. Also, the emergency blinker works fine in the same circumstances, which surprises me, since I think it's the same blinker relay. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stuart S.
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
WOW, that is as good as 134 just about. Anybody got any work on when the damn price of this crap will go back down? Hopefully by the time fall gets here. John Ervine wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] did they put magic pixie dust in the R134 this year?
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Charged my SDL up with 134 instead of duracool after compressor swap this year, it cools down to the 40's. Just put a used compressor on my 85 300D and converted it to 134, it drops down to 38, YES THIRTYEIGHT degrees vent temp with 85-90 outside temp. I dont think I have ever seen 134 do that before. Not sure, but when we converted the 240D we also saw 38F vent temps. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 265+kmi 1980 300TD 163+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi
