Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Kevin wrote: Is the defrost only mode a failure mode of the servo, so it's worth me trying the junkyard one, or is defrost only more likely something else, and I should just replace the leaky hose? If you lose electric power to the servo, it should open the water valve and the defroster flaps. If there was no vacuum in the system, the defrost flaps would open. Your failure could be a fuse, the servo, the pushbutton array
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here's the question though. His car only has working front defrost, none of the other buttons do anything. I have a spare servo from a junkyard that I picked up several months ago. Is the defrost only mode a failure mode of the servo, so it's worth me trying the junkyard one, or is defrost only more likely something else, and I should just replace the leaky hose? Defrost only is a general fail-safe mode for the system... could be the temp selector wheel, the pushbutton panel, or the amplifer unit as well. A quick check for the servo is to listen carefully (from outside the car) when you switch off the key, as the servo goes to its 'park' position when the main power is off. It's a whirring and sometimes clicking sound. If it does not do anything, then it's done. Mac
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
On Thu, Aug 04, 2005 at 07:11:14PM -0400, Mitch Haley wrote: Is the defrost only mode a failure mode of the servo, so it's worth me trying the junkyard one, or is defrost only more likely something else, and I should just replace the leaky hose? If you lose electric power to the servo, it should open the water valve and the defroster flaps. If there was no vacuum in the system, the defrost flaps would open. Your failure could be a fuse, the servo, the pushbutton array That being the case, let me elaborate on the symptoms. The only position on the pushbutton array that actually does anything is the defrost. All other buttons behave like 'off', with the possible exception of the A/C switch - there is no belt on the A/C, so we haven't played with A/C at all. When the defroster is on, it puts out full heat, irregardless of the position on the wheel. My brother replaced all the fuses shortly after he got the car and was chasing weird, intermittent electrical problems. Thanks... K
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
On Thu, Aug 04, 2005 at 07:16:16PM -0400, Steve MacSween wrote: Defrost only is a general fail-safe mode for the system... could be the temp selector wheel, the pushbutton panel, or the amplifer unit as well. A quick check for the servo is to listen carefully (from outside the car) when you switch off the key, as the servo goes to its 'park' position when the main power is off. It's a whirring and sometimes clicking sound. If it does not do anything, then it's done. I haven't noticed anything. I'll check tonight with the hood is up. Thanks... K
Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question/2 spares fit ?
I have had 3 cars that they failed on Tom Hargrave wrote: Marshall, You've had better luck than I've had. I have replaced at least 4, all with confirmed failures. Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 1:29 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question/2 spares fit ? Gabriel S. wrote: Mine was broken I'm NOT saying that KLIMAs can't or don't break. ONLY that I've had 20-30 situations (including two this spring) of AC failure where the first suggestion was that it was likely to be a bad KLIMA. In every case it was NOT the KLIMA, but something else. I have 3 replacement KLIMAs that I bought over the years to fix the problems. I keep them for diagnostic use and someday I may actually need to use one, but so far they have NOT been required on any of my cars (or the cars of my friends that have borrowed them). I have another friend that claimed that every one of the AC problems in half a dozen Mercedes he serviced WAS repaired by replacing the KLIMA. I can't explain the dramatic difference. Marshall -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
its a BIG BIG job. About everything on the firewall has to come out to get that sucker out of there. Dan Weeks wrote: After applying the brakes hard at about 5mph, I heard a bang. Checked under the car and the RF stabilizer (I've heard them called Torsion bars on this list) had snapped off at the outer end. Rust under the bushing did it in, I think. Anyway, my indy's about to give me a quote for parts and labor, but he didn't have a time estimate for it available to him, so he seemed less than sure how much to charge, or how long it would take. Anyone done this or had it done and know what's reasonable? He also wanted to suggest doing the other side, which I'm inclined to decline. THoughts on that appreciated, too. TIA! Dan -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
IIRC, it should also move *from* the park position when you turn the key on before starting. I've posted some servo related diagnostic stuff at http://my.sanbrunocable.com/joeknight/. joe On 8/4/05, Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Thu, Aug 04, 2005 at 07:16:16PM -0400, Steve MacSween wrote: Defrost only is a general fail-safe mode for the system... could be the temp selector wheel, the pushbutton panel, or the amplifer unit as well. A quick check for the servo is to listen carefully (from outside the car) when you switch off the key, as the servo goes to its 'park' position when the main power is off. It's a whirring and sometimes clicking sound. If it does not do anything, then it's done. I haven't noticed anything. I'll check tonight with the hood is up.
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
I had this done on my 81 under warranty about four or five years ago. Check with your local dealership and maybe your's can be done also! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD 83 300D
Re: [MBZ] [Mercedes] '71 MB 220D
Ralph, it has to be from a 114/115 chassis. The problem with the 110 chassis is the engine mounting arms and the 123 has the tall oil filter canister sticking up and will hit the diagonal firewall brace on the LS. Darrell Ralph A Robertson wrote: Can somebody advise me what years' diesel engines would fit into my '71 220D. I am looking either for an engine to replace mine, or a vehicle that I could buy and transfer the engine into my unit. Would really appreciate it, thanks. Ralph Robertson '71 220D '84 300CD ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.mercedesmailinglist.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Kevin wrote: When the defroster is on, it puts out full heat, irregardless of the position on the wheel. Then the defrost button is behaving as per normal - max blower, max heat, independent of thumb wheel position. What happens if you hit defrost after starting the car, then wait 10 seconds and hit bi-level? Do the leg vents open? Does the blower motor step down a notch? If should step down another notch in Auto-Hi, and if the compressor switch is in the on position, the leg vents should close, and the center vents should open. Turning the compressor switch off, the leg vents should open. Auto-Lo should have even further decreased blower motor speed, but would otherwise act like Auto-Hi as far as vent functions. Ah, the joys of ACC2... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi 1980 300TD 167+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Kevin wrote: The defrost turns off, and that's it. No vents changing, no fan, might as well have pushed the off button. Then you've got a great winter car! x-D Seriously, though, should I send you 83-605 of the service manual so you and your friend can go cross-eyed staring at electrical diagrams 7, 8, and 8a? I'd take the other's suggestions and listen if the servo is moving into and out of park - the servo could be bad, the amplifier could bad, or the pushbutton unit could be bad. The amplifier is quick and easy to pull and check, just pull the liner to the glovebox. If the circuit board looks burnt, then it is. If the servo moves, and the amplifier looks fine, then... -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi 1980 300TD 167+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That being the case, let me elaborate on the symptoms. The only position on the pushbutton array that actually does anything is the defrost. All other buttons behave like 'off', with the possible exception of the A/C switch - there is no belt on the A/C, so we haven't played with A/C at all. When the defroster is on, it puts out full heat, irregardless of the position on the wheel. Yes, that is the failure, or fail-safe mode. The intent is that you can drive the car safely even in cold conditions until the system gets repaired. Actually, IIRC that system always puts out heat on defrost, however, even when the rest of the pushbutton array is working. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, as I hardly ever had to use defrost except in the worst of winter conditions on my 116. If you decide to be brave and pull the pushbutton panel at some point, be very, very careful as you are liable for a blown mind when you see the spaghetti of wires and fiber optic cables running into the back of the assembly. Oh, dear, that reminds me. The car didn't by any chance have a stereo installed recently, did it? Mac
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Brunnhilde has the same problem. It doesn't really get cold enough here to worry much about heat, the defrost warms things up when needed, so I have not spent much time on this (when it's high 90s, its definitely not an issue). I will be interested to see what sorts out with your car then maybe about December I will have a look at mine. --R Kevin wrote: On Thu, Aug 04, 2005 at 08:33:43PM -0400, John Ervine wrote: Then the defrost button is behaving as per normal - max blower, max heat, independent of thumb wheel position. Okay... What happens if you hit defrost after starting the car, then wait 10 seconds and hit bi-level? The defrost turns off, and that's it. No vents changing, no fan, might as well have pushed the off button. Ah, the joys of ACC2... :-/ K ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] holy crap is this thing rusty
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1973-Mercedes-Benz-280-SE-4-5L-4-door-Auto_W0QQitemZ4566447732QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Can you imagine what you DONT see in the pics -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question/2 spares fit ?
I think I mentioned in a previous post that my indie told me that the KLIMA for 85 W123 models is unique...as in it doesn't work with any other model and year. Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Loren Faeth Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 9:22 AM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] KLIMA 85 300D question/2 spares fit ? Thanks Jim, but the one I need is specific to the 85 300D (5zyl) I have one on the way I have one off a 280SEL Euro if that is of any help to anyone. I have two Klima used spares, but both are marked 4 Zyl which I thinks means
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Kevin, Here is some information I have accumulated over the years of working on this system: If the ACC Servo has been replaced with an aluminum body servo, make sure that you used nylon attachment bolts, and nylon washers to mount the servo, or you might encounter intermittent electrical problems with the servo. Everything in the ACC system is vacuum controlled through the ACC Servo. It is possible that a vacuum line came off or loose. The switch that turns on the fan is a vacuum actuated relay. This relay (or vacuum switch) is located just above the radio and behind the vertical switch assembly. It is the one on the far right side of the relay bank. Near this relay is a coil of green wire located near the passenger foot-well near the glove box. This coil of wire is a controlled vent for the vacuum system. Don't try to find a place to connect it - one end is plugged into a vacuum line; the other end is open to allow air to enter the vacuum system at a very slow rate. If this wire is missing, or has fallen out, the blower will only run in defrost. (The vent line is a German engineers idea of a practical joke). Defrost mode, by the way, bypasses all of these circuits. Assuming that the vacuum is OK, check the servo and servo control system. This system consist of a temperature sensing resistor loop, an ACC control amplifier (located behind the glove box), and the dreaded servo (located under the hood, to the right on the engine). The temperature is sensed/controlled by a sensor chain. The sensor chain consists of a series of resisters; the ambient air temperature sensor (located on the firewall just behind the engine), the temperature dial, the in-car temperature sensor (located in the dash in the right hand speaker grill, and the resister in the servo. If there is a problem in the resistor chain, it is likely with the sensor in the dash. This sensor work by drawing in car air through a tube connected to the blower. If this tube is deteriorated, replace it with a piece of water pipe foam insulation. Generally, a deteriorated sensor pipe will cause erratic temperature control. The temperature dial resister can have a dead spot near the end. To check out the resister chain, 1. Remove the ACC amplifier (located behind the glove box) and connect a ground to pin 3 of the connector plug. 2. At the servo electrical connector, connect an OHM meter between pins 1 and pin 2 on the left of the connector. 3. Place the temperature wheel at max (85 degrees) and the resistance should be between 2.2K ohms, and 4.7K ohms. 4. Place the temperature wheel at 65 degrees, and the resistance should be between 1K ohm and 3.5 K ohms. When you finish, re-install the amplifier. If the circuit is open at any place in the resistor chain, the result is heat. If the chain is OK, then the problem might be the amp. To check the amplifier, connect a voltmeter between pins 1 and 7. With the ignition switch in the on position, the voltage should be about a volt. Move the temperature wheel from cold to hot. The voltage should increase to about 5 volts, the servo motor should move, and when the servo finds it home, the voltage will drop back to about a volt. If it does not vary, then the amp is bad. If you listen to the servo, you should be able to hear the servo motor running to find the new position. To check the motor in the servo, disconnect the electrical connectors on the servo, and connect 12 volts between pins 4 and 5. The motor should run in one direction and stop. Reverse the voltage and it should run in the other direction. If it runs, only run it momentarily in each direction. Pin 1 on the connector is on the left (towards the engine) side of the servo. There is an inline fuse, located in the relay box on the fender, as I recall. The in-line fuse powers the amplifier when the car is turned off to run the servo to a parked position. The purpose of the parked position is to avoid having the system start up where it was when you last turned off the car. If the fuse is in there and the servo is operating properly, the servo will run to PARK and shut itself off after you turn off the car. If the servo is seized, the servo will run the battery down overnight for no apparent reason - because the motor in the servo is always trying to move the servo to a parked position and can't, thus, the system runs the battery down trying to park the servo all night. It does not hurt to leave the inline fuse disconnected. The system will work correctly, but the servo will not park. For most people, this is generally not a problem. While you are working around the servo, check the operation on the aux water pump located beside the servo. The auxiliary water pump tends to short when they stop working. If the pump is bad, it can keep the system from working. This electric pump is located just in front of the servo. If it does not hum happily when connected to 12 volts, leave it
Re: [MBZ] R-12
Thanks, Dave... I think they did some pretty thorough flushing to clean out the R134 oil. In any case, they seized up at least one compressor (on their nickel) before they got it right. The good news from my perspective is that I can once again work on my a/c system myself now that I can get coolant for it. Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave M. Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 11:23 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12 Hi Royce, I hope I'm not just being a Chicken Little here, but switching to Freeze-12 from 134a is probably a really bad thing. Your system would have been fed PAG/POE oil during the conversion to R-134a. The problem is, FR-12 is not particularly compatible with those oils, even though the mfr may claim it is. Read this page for more info: http://www.autofrost.com/hotshot/index.html The R-12 replacements (FR-12, AutoFrost, HotShot, etc) are all great products but only when used in an original, virginal R-12 system that still has mineral oil and has NOT been contaminated with PAG/POE oils. At least that's my opinion. For a car that's been converted to R-134a, or otherwise has PAG/POE oil, and you want a cheaper or more effective refrigerant... I'd try to use the GHG-X7 or -X8 products from AutoFrost. I believe these will perform better than DuraCool (which I think is safe for PAG/POE oils, it just doesn't work all that great in hot climates.) :-) Dave M. Boise, ID -- Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:22:14 -0500 From: Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've just been through the saga of dealing with my a/c system, and it ain't over yet. Here are some of the things I've learned along the way... Converted to R134 a few years ago when the evaporator started leaking. That worked for a couple of years...started having troubles with it this year and took it to an indie a/c shop for work. They said the compressor seals were blown, and put in a new compressor. They then determined that the KLIMA relay was toasted (I'm not sure how good an analysis this was). They put in an aftermarket KLIMA, and started having problems with them frying. I say them...I don't know how many of them they went through before they got one to last. One of the other things they did was to replace the R134 with Freeze12, which claims to be a replacement for R-12. I did a google on it and found out that it's certified by EPA and readily available. It seems to cool well. The indie a/c shop swears by it... Continuing on...blew the KLIMA relay (the aftermarket one) again, so I took it to my regular indie, who said they had been having troubles with the after market KLIMAs and put an OEM KLIMA on it. That part of the system seems to be working, but I still think I'm losing FR-12...as I drive I keep hearing something from time to time that sounds like a relief valve lifting. Gotta check into that some more today. Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Bravo, Dan! Where the heck were you when I was tearing what little hair I have left over this stuff? joe
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
One more little thing. The rubber vacuum manifold on the servo is retained by a small screw that's kind of hard to see. If you remove the manifold you'll have better access to check the condition of the small rubber vacuum connectors to the vacuum lines. joe
[MBZ] old cars
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/89020825.html --77 300D $2k http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88995169.html --85 300D $4500 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/88915648.html --Wagon for Casey $500 no affiliation -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
[MBZ] Injection line clips for OM60x
Hi all, I finally uploaded the photo of the OM60x clips with part numbers, for easy future reference. Here's the link: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/inj_line_clips.jpg Note to anyone with an OM60x engine who has NOT replaced these... do yourself a favor and order a whole set, should be $20 or so from Rusty. Much cheaper than metal injection lines, which are about $30-$40 each, or something ridiculous like that. (Don't ask how I know... or just look at some of the other photos in that directory.) Enjoy! :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] R-12
How many lbs does your system take and how many did you put in? Did you use gauges? highlow side? pressure? ambiant temperature? R-134 will work in r-12 systems but creates higher pressures with the same volume. -- Original message -- I've also been having an occasional relief valve opening. strange sound that! But it only happend this week in 100+ temps right after I pulled the hcf-12 and installed r134a. Might have to switch back. I was happy with the 134 cooling, (faster cool down after being parked in the hot sun), but the hcf-12 was colder by a good 8 degrees on the highway. Brian from Columbia MO '82 240D 286,3XX still think I'm losing FR-12...as I drive I keep hearing something from time to time that sounds like a relief valve lifting. Gotta check into that some more today. Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K ---BeginMessage--- ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ---End Message---
Re: [MBZ] holy crap is this thing rusty
Thats not so bad. I saw a 250 in montreal last year. I beleive you could see the inside through the body. Salt kills cars. -- Original message -- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1973-Mercedes-Benz-280-S E-4-5L-4-door-Auto_W0QQitemZ4566447732QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Can you imagine what you DONT see in the pics -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] R12
Hey Mitch, Any details on that? what happened? Any particular sellers to avoid? Thx George -- Original message -- Constantine N. Polites wrote: I just ordered a 30# cylinder from Donald Knieriem in Hardin KT. Tel. 270 354 8710. Cost $ 395 plus $ 40 shipping. He has a few left. They are said to be virgin R-12, not reprocessed. Let us know when you get it. I've spent $580 on a couple cans of R12 from ebay auctions, and got nothing. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Injection line clips for OM60x
Awesome, Dave! Thank you! On 8/4/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I finally uploaded the photo of the OM60x clips with part numbers, for easy future reference. Here's the link: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/inj_line_clips.jpg Note to anyone with an OM60x engine who has NOT replaced these... do yourself a favor and order a whole set, should be $20 or so from Rusty. Much cheaper than metal injection lines, which are about $30-$40 each, or something ridiculous like that. (Don't ask how I know... or just look at some of the other photos in that directory.) Enjoy! :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline) ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
I have been noticing that my oil gauge fluttered at idle around 20 psi but smoothed out as soon as it went up. I thought maybe it was a rough idle problem.Last night it started to flutter in the 30 range. Then coming down my street and in the driveway I heard a light clattering noise in the dash behind the cluster and the gauge fluttered at 40 psi. Noise would stop when I pegged it at 45 psi. Anybody have any advice? I don't recall seeing this problem on the list over the past 3 years. TIA. Dwight Dwight Giles 1979 240D auto 244k + miles Wickford, RI Bissell Cove Quahog Auto Salvage Co. For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Thanks. I was tearing my last remaining hair out myself! And even though I have a good idea of how this mess works, it can still bring me to my knees in a moment. Dan - Original Message - From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 10:44 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question Bravo, Dan! Where the heck were you when I was tearing what little hair I have left over this stuff? joe ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Chassis/32-300.pdf This will give you an idea of all the work involved to RR front stabilizer (I call it a swaybar) I was just looking at this the other day to see what it would take to just pull the ends out of the upper control arms and paint them with POR-15 before they rust and break. If I am interrupting the document Mercedes Labor Time on the FTP site correctly. Series 50 early w126. 12.2 Hrs, Series 60 late w126 12.4 Hrs. Your Indy will be doing both sides because it is a 1 piece bar that runs from one side to the other. Unless he can patch it back together somehow, but I don't think that will work. Russ H
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
One question, Dan. I noticed that you stated that the motor should only be run momentarily when jumpered. Why is this? During my little stint in purgatory diagnosing and repairing a misbehaving gear assembly -details in the text file on the website- I had to put the thing thru its paces pretty extensively both in situ and on the bench and have yet to notice any ill effects. joe
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
Joe, In its normal configuration, the motor is controlled by the servo amp. As the resistance feedback of the resistor chain changes, the amp begins to slow the motor before it reaches the end stop. Running the servo motor full speed with the jumper can cause the gears to slightly bind or jam when the reach the end stop, and also stress the motor. I have never seen a problem caused by using the jumper -- even running it into the end stop, but a working servo may be 10 - 15 even 20 years old or older. I tend to try to treat my old Benz like an old man -- gently, cause they might break (like me). Dan - Original Message - From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 9:30 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question One question, Dan. I noticed that you stated that the motor should only be run momentarily when jumpered. Why is this? During my little stint in purgatory diagnosing and repairing a misbehaving gear assembly -details in the text file on the website- I had to put the thing thru its paces pretty extensively both in situ and on the bench and have yet to notice any ill effects. joe ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting
In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:22:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I tried one time plugging in the hall socket and got a severe thrashing from the landlady. C'mon lady its 4 amps for crying out loud! Has anyone tried running a 500W power inverter to run a block heater? If you wired your marine battery into the trunk so it could be fully charged in the evening when you park it seems that an inverter could run your block heater off that battery for a half hour or so, then, with the extra cranking power of two batteries you should be able to get Gump started in any weather. Good, fully charged batteries shouldn't be bothered by 12 hours or so at 20 below. Mike
[MBZ] OT, gmail hiccup
Have to report my first instance in several months use of an actual spam finding its way into my inbox. Sure hope this is an isolated event. :( joe
Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting
In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:22:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've cut alot of wood for my woodstove this summer and the old adage holds just as true when you're using a chainsaw. Can't stand to cut firewood in the Summer heat..Don't need it to warm me any more in the Summer so I wait until cooler weather to let it do it's magic warminglol, Mike PS. I like the way it warms the kids when they unload and stack it too. Get alot more cooperation from them in the cooler weather.
Re: [MBZ] another 123 climate control question
In a message dated 8/4/2005 3:52:32 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Here's the question though. His car only has working front defrost, none of the other buttons do anything. I have a spare servo from a junkyard that I picked up several months ago. Is the defrost only mode a failure mode of the servo, so it's worth me trying the junkyard one, or is defrost only more likely something else, and I should just replace the leaky hose? Kevin, You can delete all the replies except Dan's and go with his. The key thing he said is you don't need vacuum to get the blower to run on defrost. There is both an electric relay for defrost and a vacuum relay for normal blower operation. The other buttons requires vacuum to start and stop the blower, the AC compressor, and move the dampers. You need to find out where the vacuum signal to the AC is going. It is probably plugged at the firewall if the PO has removed the AC belt. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
Re: [MBZ] OT, gmail hiccup
Oh it happens, fortunately not often. Just click report spam and it'll be sent to your spam box for later discardation. Tim 1982 300TD Moby On 8/5/05, Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have to report my first instance in several months use of an actual spam finding its way into my inbox. Sure hope this is an isolated event. :( joe ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:38:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: its a BIG BIG job. About everything on the firewall has to come out to get that sucker out of there. I don't think his bar is broken, just the link to the suspension. In this case, I would do both links as they are about $20 each. If the bar is truly broken, then there is no left or right to replace, it is all one piece, and Kaleb is right, it is quite a job. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
about a year or more ago, someone on this list proposed cutting the long bar in two, fixing all ends needed, then welding it back together...anybody remember the results? In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:38:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: its a BIG BIG job. About everything on the firewall has to come out to get that sucker out of there. I don't think his bar is broken, just the link to the suspension. In this case, I would do both links as they are about $20 each. If the bar is truly broken, then there is no left or right to replace, it is all one piece, and Kaleb is right, it is quite a job. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles
Re: [MBZ] holy crap is this thing rusty
I wonder why there aren't any closeups of the body. Only pics from many feet away. winmail.dat
Re: [MBZ] Diesel Fuel Filtering
And to think I've been using a collander and funnel to filter diesel fuel for my wagon... On 8/4/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you are buying commercial diesel fuel from a gas station in the US that sells to the public, there should be NO problem that requires filtering that Mercedes hasn't prepared for! There's a strainer in the tank, and inline filter that is visible (in MOST models) that allows you to inspect the color and see significant quantities of water and the BIG filter that will trap a LOT of water before there's any problem. Just buy quality fuel and give the fuel system a dose or two of anti-gel (or other additive with water sequestering capacity) a couple of times a year and change the filters every 15/30kmi (depending on conditions) and you should have NO trouble that requires additional filtering. When you start talking about stuff that has sat in a tank behind the shed for 4-5 years or home brew stuff made in somebody's basement, kitchen or barn - that's a different story! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Texas Charity Auction 76 300D
Please somebody by this for our collective vicarious pleasure. I remember when purchasing a 1976 300D in 1983 how very modern it seemed at the time... On 8/4/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=5762vType=1 TEXANS CAN! Cars for Kids Car Details Stock No:24-28966 Lot No:80 Year:1976 Make:Mercedes Benz Model:300 D Color:Silver VIN:11511412032938 Location:Arlington Radio:Car Complete: Start:Tires Good: Battery:Spare Tire: Door Key:Trunk Key: Ignition Key: Replaced Parts in last Year? What Parts? NO Anything wrong: YES, HAS NOT BEEN RUNNING/HAS ANOTHER CAR Is the car Drivable? NO ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] holy crap is this thing rusty
Looks like a mouse-fest has been chewing up the A/C too. This shows the power of MB Tex to resist nearly anything. NASA should have clad the Discovery in MB Tex instead of ceramic tiles... On 8/5/05, Schisler, Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wonder why there aren't any closeups of the body. Only pics from many feet away. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
I have been noticing that my oil gauge fluttered at idle around 20 psi but smoothed out as soon as it went up. I thought maybe it was a rough idle problem.Last night it started to flutter in the 30 range. Then coming down my street and in the driveway I heard a light clattering noise in the dash behind the cluster and the gauge fluttered at 40 psi. Noise would stop when I pegged it at 45 psi. Anybody have any advice? I don't recall seeing this problem on the list over the past 3 years. TIA. Dwight Dwight Giles 1979 240D auto 244k + miles Wickford, RI I have a recollection of someone saying that if you have not replaced the small rubber rings on the post that fits inside your oil filter that will lead to fluctuation in this guage, as the old rings allow oil past them. Not exactly sure, perhaps others on the list could confirm/deny this ? Hope this helps, Dan Elliott 82 300D-T 83kmi
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
About that same time somebody mentioned a 3 piece bar, splines end and stuff. On 8/5/05, JJJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: about a year or more ago, someone on this list proposed cutting the long bar in two, fixing all ends needed, then welding it back together...anybody remember the results? In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:38:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: its a BIG BIG job. About everything on the firewall has to come out to get that sucker out of there. I don't think his bar is broken, just the link to the suspension. In this case, I would do both links as they are about $20 each. If the bar is truly broken, then there is no left or right to replace, it is all one piece, and Kaleb is right, it is quite a job. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com/ For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Don Teresa Merriman Market Place Mexico Vacation Rentals Property Administration www.marketplacemexico.com http://www.marketplacemexico.com
[MBZ] Arizona Benzes.....
Some Craigslist AZ Benzes Mostly gassers ... For anyone interested.. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/88820407.html W116 280SE gasser http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/88612157.html W201 190E 2.3 gasser http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/88040086.html 450SL http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/87580032.html 420SEL - no reverse. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/88376075.html 1980 450SLC $4500 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/88516933.html 300E overheating - Make offer http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/87371740.html 80 300SD - no A/C $1500 No affiliation, etc. Chuck Phoenix, AZ 1980 300SD das alte Mädchen Ö¿Ö ~
Re: [MBZ] Texas Charity Auction 76 300D
Hey if it was a bit closer I would be interested for parts if nothing else. I just acquired a 76 300D last month and am driving it daily. Randy in Winnipeg -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 7:56 AM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Texas Charity Auction 76 300D Please somebody by this for our collective vicarious pleasure. I remember when purchasing a 1976 300D in 1983 how very modern it seemed at the time... On 8/4/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=5762vType=1 TEXANS CAN! Cars for Kids Car Details Stock No:24-28966 Lot No:80 Year:1976 Make:Mercedes Benz Model:300 D Color:Silver VIN:11511412032938 Location:Arlington Radio:Car Complete: Start:Tires Good: Battery:Spare Tire: Door Key:Trunk Key: Ignition Key: Replaced Parts in last Year? What Parts? NO Anything wrong: YES, HAS NOT BEEN RUNNING/HAS ANOTHER CAR Is the car Drivable? NO ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Massive oil leak (from May) -- SOLVED
Background: Way back in May I drove out to Phoenix and on the way had a MASSIVE (6 quarts 200 miles) oil leak that ONLY occured during sustained highway driving. Since then I've only really had a chance to poke around and try and see where it was coming from. It appeared to be coming from the IP where it connects to the engine, but I was driving all over the place and was busy when I wasn't driving so I just kept it under the magic speed of 75 (only 1 quart per 1000 miles) and drove away. Some rear suspension issues came up that made the car almost undriveable, and while it was down for that I also knocked out what I thought was the cause of the oil leak. Symptoms: Sustained highway speeds, can not duplicate by revving engine, driving around town in S, etc. Only occurs during high load. (Presumably crankcase pressure is causing leak to occur and that follows load) MASSIVE leak -- entire bottom of car dripping, back of car wet, etc No discernable source -- its in an awkward enough position that it is not very obvious where the leak is coming from. Does not help that oil cooler lines run right underneath IP. Solution (So far...): When I removed the IP there did not appear to be any gasket material. Turned out that there was a gasket, it just looked JUST like the metal and was almost the same thickness as the surrounding metal. That gasket was so far gone there was essentially no gasket. There was also lots of oil residue below and on the sides of the IP, but nothing above it. Scrubbed off the old gasket and installed a new one, which upon the 15 miles or so I've driven so far (some at *high* sustained speeds) seems to have fixed the leak. Normally it would seep constantly, which has not occurred yet, and nothing leaked after the high speed excursions. After I drive to Starkville this weekend should be able to post a definite answer about it being the cause of the problem. Thanks to everyone that helped me out in May and offered help while I was away from home!! John '79 300SD
[MBZ] AC oil capacity
Hi all, Anybody knows what the oil capacity is for the AC on a 72 250 w114 M130 w/ a york 210 compressor? Thanks George
[MBZ] Re flaky oil gauge-240D
Dwight Have you changed the O-rings on the oil filter stem? Thats a cheap place to start. Also there are a couple of ground attachments in back of the instrument cluster that might need the tighten up Regards Steve Van Cleve Marrowstone Isl Wa 85 Euro 240D 5 spd 110K 79 240D 5spd fresh tranny transplan 82 Euro 300 TD non turbo, project wagon 94 Dodge, 2500, 5 spd, 5.9 Cummins, 95K I have been noticing that my oil gauge fluttered at idle around 20 psi but smoothed out as soon as it went up. I thought maybe it was a rough idle problem.Last night it started to flutter in the 30 range. Then coming down my street and in the driveway I heard a light clattering noise in the dash behind the cluster and the gauge fluttered at 40 psi. Noise would stop when I pegged it at 45 psi. Anybody have any advice? I don't recall seeing this problem on the list over the past 3 years. TIA. Dwight Dwight Giles 1979 240D auto 244k + miles Wickford, RI
Re: [MBZ] 126 RF STABILIZER FAILURE ADVICE NEEDED
Thanks, all, for your responses. Jim is correct--it is the link to the suspension that is broken. That rusted away and snapped right where it goes through the suspension, where a rubber bushing trapped water and salt. From what my indy could see on his computer, those ends spline into the actual torsion part of the swaybar. I'll let you all know what happens. Meanwhile, thanks again! In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:38:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: its a BIG BIG job. About everything on the firewall has to come out to get that sucker out of there. I don't think his bar is broken, just the link to the suspension. In this case, I would do both links as they are about $20 each. If the bar is truly broken, then there is no left or right to replace, it is all one piece, and Kaleb is right, it is quite a job. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 137 K miles -- Dan Weeks 82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 175k 82 Mercedes 300SD, 260k
Re: [MBZ] Arizona Benzes.....
Chuck wrote http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/87371740.html 80 300SD - no A/C $1500 No wonder they want to sell it...no a/c in AZ?? Oh, I forgot...It's a dry heat GRIN Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K - sweating in Houston...Where the humidity is so thick the fish come out of the pond to see what's up there...
Re: [MBZ] R-12
Minor clarification... R-134a will work in an R-12 system if you do the full conversion process. It's not just a matter of emptying the system and charging with R-134a (although that's a great way to destroy the AC system right quick like.) Converting any mineral-oil (R-12) system to a PAG/POE system (R-134a) is a very VERY undesireable thing to do, even though the performance is about equal if you live in Canada (eh) or Alaska. (steps off soapbox) In case anyone wants to read the full official R-134a conversion/retrofit procedure from Mercedes, here's a link to the factory document (200kb PDF file): http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/134a_retrofit.pdf :-) Best regards, Dave M. Boise, ID -- Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 04:31:08 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] R-12 R-134 will work in r-12 systems but creates higher pressures with the same volume.
Re: [MBZ] Arizona Benzes.....
THE CAR NEEDS PAINT JOB AND THE INTERIOR REDONE. That's an expensive proposition (over $5,000) for a 450SL C, and on top of that you have to be prepared to spend another $2500 for a valve job since the seller conveniently forgot to provide the actual mileage... This is why these cars are likely to disappear completely in the next decade. And paradoxically, why it may make sense to purchase one for the eventual day when they suddenly become highly prized collectible cars, as opposed to bottomless money pits. On 8/5/05, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chuck wrote http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/87371740.html 80 300SD - no A/C $1500 No wonder they want to sell it...no a/c in AZ?? Oh, I forgot...It's a dry heat GRIN Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K - sweating in Houston...Where the humidity is so thick the fish come out of the pond to see what's up there... ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Re flaky oil gauge-240D
Van, the 123 240D has a non electrical oil pressure gauge therefore no ground attachment there. Dwight, there is an orifice in the line at the oil filter connection. Pull the connector and see if you can find it. You may have to replace the pressure feed line from the oil filter to the back of the gauge. Darrell Van Cleve wrote: Dwight Have you changed the O-rings on the oil filter stem? Thats a cheap place to start. Also there are a couple of ground attachments in back of the instrument cluster that might need the tighten up Regards Steve Van Cleve Marrowstone Isl Wa 85 Euro 240D 5 spd 110K 79 240D 5spd fresh tranny transplan 82 Euro 300 TD non turbo, project wagon 94 Dodge, 2500, 5 spd, 5.9 Cummins, 95K I have been noticing that my oil gauge fluttered at idle around 20 psi but smoothed out as soon as it went up. I thought maybe it was a rough idle problem.Last night it started to flutter in the 30 range. Then coming down my street and in the driveway I heard a light clattering noise in the dash behind the cluster and the gauge fluttered at 40 psi. Noise would stop when I pegged it at 45 psi. Anybody have any advice? I don't recall seeing this problem on the list over the past 3 years. TIA. Dwight Dwight Giles 1979 240D auto 244k + miles Wickford, RI ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] R-12
Dave M. wrote: In case anyone wants to read the full official R-134a conversion/retrofit procedure from Mercedes, here's a link to the factory document (200kb PDF file): http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/134a_retrofit.pdf I'm reading the factory procedure for the old York and Harrison compressors you listed above and thinking what a crock. They attempt to remove the mineral oil by flushing it with your old R12 and pulling a vacuum, put the R134 adapters on, fill with R134+PAG, and that's it. No barrier hoses, no mention of what happens to PAG when you run it through chlorine coated condensorevaporator. They get points for saying to replace the receiver/dryer, where most of the mineral oil is probably sitting.
Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.
Thanks,Dave. Shorted the leads and nothing happened. Any idea what to check next? Thank you, Jay 95 MB E300D 92K The new baby 83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin 99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K Cannondale SR500 Allentown,Pa. http://www.thecornerstonefamily.org/
Re: [MBZ] Electric fan and AC.
In a message dated 8/3/2005 9:51:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: On an E300D, locate the coolant temp sensor (on the front of the head pointing up) and disconnect the connector. The fans should immediately go to their high speed. J.B. Thanks, JB I disconnected the lead and the fan did not come on. Any idea what's wrong? Thank you, Jay 95 MB E300D 92K The new baby 83 MB 300D 241K The silver coffin 99 Mercury Sable wagon 24 valve 72K Cannondale SR500 Allentown,Pa. http://www.thecornerstonefamily.org/
Re: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
The direct reading Bourdon oil pressure gauges have a tendency to chatter under some conditions. It causes NO harm, but is annoying. Mercedes sells a small restricter that can be placed in the line that will damp the chatter. I will SEE if I can find a part number. Oil Pressure Restricter, MB part number: 123 542 00 74 There are other potential causes for the gauge to oscillate - like the oil pressure actually going up and down (a blown head gasket between one cylinder and an oil passage CAN cause that, but oil consumption would skyrocket) and I THINK that seriously degraded O rings on the oil filter stem shaft might sometimes cause that - they will result in lowered oil pressure reading, but I'm NOT sure about pressure oscillation. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] R-12
I was thinking the EXACT same thing. I thought the procedure was awfully weak for being the official factory dogma. Basically the mineral oil remains, same as the McParts-style 'retrofit' kits, and you just add PAG/POE oil on top of it... then wait a few years for the infamous Black Death to pooferate the system. Back on soapbox... if you have an R-12 system, don't ever put PAG/POE oil in it! Use a mineral-oil compatible refrigerant only (R-12, AutoFrost, Duracool, etc). =) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline) Dave M. wrote: In case anyone wants to read the full official R-134a conversion/retrofit procedure from Mercedes, here's a link to the factory document (200kb PDF file): http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/134a_retrofit.pdf I'm reading the factory procedure for the old York and Harrison compressors you listed above and thinking what a crock. They attempt to remove the mineral oil by flushing it with your old R12 and pulling a vacuum, put the R134 adapters on, fill with R134+PAG, and that's it. No barrier hoses, no mention of what happens to PAG when you run it through chlorine coated condensorevaporator. They get points for saying to replace the receiver/dryer, where most of the mineral oil is probably sitting.
Re: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
Doktor Booth used the phrase direct reading Bourdon pressure gauge in a post. Sweet. AZ Bob '77 300D 137K Litchfield Park, AZ On 8/5/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The direct reading Bourdon oil pressure gauges have a tendency to chatter under some conditions. It causes NO harm, but is annoying. Mercedes sells a small restricter that can be placed in the line that will damp the chatter. I will SEE if I can find a part number. Oil Pressure Restricter, MB part number: 123 542 00 74 There are other potential causes for the gauge to oscillate - like the oil pressure actually going up and down (a blown head gasket between one cylinder and an oil passage CAN cause that, but oil consumption would skyrocket) and I THINK that seriously degraded O rings on the oil filter stem shaft might sometimes cause that - they will result in lowered oil pressure reading, but I'm NOT sure about pressure oscillation. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] AC oil capacity
George, I don't know but I have a 'dipstick ' with the HI/LO mark like an oil stick. Darrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, Anybody knows what the oil capacity is for the AC on a 72 250 w114 M130 w/ a york 210 compressor? Thanks George ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Contact Yankee Diesel in Newton, Ct. He is the sage of all things injection
pump.
Mathieu Cama
At 03:56 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Your ole buddy Rusty certainly has them.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Arnold
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2005 3:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Buy a used one from a reputable source. Kaleb! got one?
At 02:56 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
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Re: [MBZ] cheap AZ MBs
No wonder they want to sell it...no a/c in AZ?? Oh, I forgot...It's a dry heat GRIN Like a crematory. RLE
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
On Fri, Aug 05, 2005 at 03:56:27PM -0400, Peter Arnold wrote:
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Injector pumps don't usually just break. What's broken about it?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
You can buy rebuilt units, or you can buy a used one and take your
chances. Since it's probably for your SDL, odds are good of you finding
a good used one from a car that cracked its head and wasn't worth repairing.
If there's a Bosch shop and yours isn't completely broken (say, by setting
the timing with the lock thing and breaking the piece inside the IP), the
Bosch shop might be able to repair yours. Or, you can get one shipped in
from Finland, and while you're waiting for it, bolt an intercooler on, and
some gauges...
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
Start adding zeros, unless you score a deal on a used one (which will likely
require adding a bunch as well)
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
From having a 603's head off, it doesn't look too bad to get the IP out.
Casey should be able to give an idea, he had to yank the IP on his 300TD.
K
Re: [MBZ] AC oil capacity
Hey Darrell, The top of my old compressor broke, I'm in the process of flushing out the system and refilling it. So I guess I'm looking for the total Oil capacity for the system. Thanks George -- Original message -- George, I don't know but I have a 'dipstick ' with the HI/LO mark like an oil stick. Darrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, Anybody knows what the oil capacity is for the AC on a 72 250 w114 M130 w/ a york 210 compressor? Thanks George ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Loren Faeth wrote: Buy a used one from a reputable source. If it's for the SDL, I'm a little short on six cyl pumps, I imagine Kleb is too. I've got a Cummins rebuilt Bosch P7100, it might be a little large, but it can pump lots of fuel. Maybe Peter could build a Finn style superturbo with it.
Re: [MBZ] R-12
Mitch Haley wrote: I'm reading the factory procedure for the old York and Harrison compressors you listed above and thinking what a crock. They attempt to remove the mineral oil by flushing it with your old R12 and pulling a vacuum, put the R134 adapters on, fill with R134+PAG, and that's it. No barrier hoses, no mention of what happens to PAG when you run it through chlorine coated condensorevaporator. They get points for saying to replace the receiver/dryer, where most of the mineral oil is probably sitting. Turns out that 10+ year old hoses that had run mineral oil AND R-12 provided a more complete barrier than NEW barrier hoses! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] AC oil capacity
Looking at the manual I don't find a direct indication of total capacity, but there are a few tidbits that might give you a clue. Total refrigerant capacity is 1.2kg of R-12. Using the dipstick, self made marked 22,2528mm from the end, level in the compressor should fall somewhere between the first last marks corresponding to a compressor capacity of between 180300cc. Total system capacity may well be in there someplace but it's not jumpin' out at me. joe On 8/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ... Anybody knows what the oil capacity is for the AC on a 72 250 w114 M130 w/ a york 210 compressor?
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Peter Arnold wrote:
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
Any Bosch repair station (that works on BIG trucks - Freight-Liner and
the like) can repair you injection pump (but may not want to). The cost
will be somewhere between $300-$600 of a general calibration plus the
cost of any parts and additional labor for the cost to replace any
parts. $600-$1800 would be the average cost of a calibration/rebuild. To
purchase a pump already rebuild would almost surely cost more as they
must assume that EVERYTHING in yours would need to be replaced.
Used injection pumps in pretty good condition usually cost $200-$400.
They can be a very good buy as injection pumps almost never wear out or
break sooner then engines wear out (and MOST Mercedes diesel engines
don't wear out - they break).
HAVE YOU TURNED THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW AT LEAST SEVERAL TURNS (keep track
of how far so you can set it back to where it was) IN EACH DIRECTION
YET? Don't start shopping for a pump until you do!
I THINK that turning the screw clockwise (looking at it from the
driver's seat) increases idle speed, but it's been several years since I
adjusted one!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
Hi Dwight, My '83 240D did something similar last winter. It would flutter just a bit when I first pulled out but then settle down when the car was moving. Sometimes at lower speeds, say 30mph it'd flutter too but it was always rock solid on the highway. Finally one day it blew the oil cap clean off and puked about 2 quarts of oil out. I put the cap back on and although it seeped a little bit until I replaced the cap it never pulled that game again. I replaced the fitting from the top of the valve cover to the air intake and ran a wire through the hose there to make sure it wasn't plugged, I got some gunk out but nothing major... Dunno, just one of those things. -Curt '83 240D Hammie 243kmi Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 08:05:36 -0400 From: degcoast [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original I have been noticing that my oil gauge fluttered at idle around 20 psi but smoothed out as soon as it went up. I thought maybe it was a rough idle problem.Last night it started to flutter in the 30 range. Then coming down my street and in the driveway I heard a light clattering noise in the dash behind the cluster and the gauge fluttered at 40 psi. Noise would stop when I pegged it at 45 psi. Anybody have any advice? I don't recall seeing this problem on the list over the past 3 years. TIA. Dwight Dwight Giles 1979 240D auto 244k + miles Wickford, RI - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Re: [MBZ] flaky oil gauge-240D
Doktor Booth used the phrase direct reading Bourdon pressure gauge yeah...i got that phrase the other day as an email heading...DIRECT BOURDON GAUGE selling internet drugs
Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting
400w inverter and yes obviously I've done it, for 2 winters now, put the inverter on before my shower. Start the car, haul the battery back upstairs to put on the charger, have a cup of coffee and then head to work. I've thought about wiring it up. To make it an effective starting battery the cables to the trunk would have to be ginormous to carry from the trunk and I don't think I could find space for that battery anywhere else... Of course to just wire it for charging wouldn't be as big a deal... So with my hope of buying a house sometime in the near future or hoping that the 190D would start easier, which is only a factor in considering the 190D, I'm not planning on wiring up anytime soon. -Curt '83 240D Hammie 243kmi Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 09:52:36 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii In a message dated 8/4/2005 4:22:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I tried one time plugging in the hall socket and got a severe thrashing from the landlady. C'mon lady its 4 amps for crying out loud! Has anyone tried running a 500W power inverter to run a block heater? If you wired your marine battery into the trunk so it could be fully charged in the evening when you park it seems that an inverter could run your block heater off that battery for a half hour or so, then, with the extra cranking power of two batteries you should be able to get Gump started in any weather. Good, fully charged batteries shouldn't be bothered by 12 hours or so at 20 below. Mike - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting
We cut about a half cord in May when it was relatively cool and I'll cut probably another half cord or maybe a full cord in September/October. That'll be enough for hunting season and a trip out on the snowmobile, and for any leafpeeper trips. You never know how many friends you have until you own a camp... Except when theres wood to cut. I cut about a cord last year. It was brutally cold during hunting season and the hunters burned about all of it. I didn't make a trip out in the snow because I was worried there wasn't enough wood -Curt Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 09:59:10 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] and now it gets interesting To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Can't stand to cut firewood in the Summer heat..Don't need it to warm me any more in the Summer so I wait until cooler weather to let it do it's magic warminglol, Mike PS. I like the way it warms the kids when they unload and stack it too. Get alot more cooperation from them in the cooler weather. - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
Re: [MBZ] Arizona Benzes.....
Royce, But remember in dry heat You must hydrate Not original Saw it somewhere recently. Chuck Phoenix, AZ 1980 300SD das alte Mädchen Ö¿Ö Ω
Re: [MBZ] AC oil capacity
Yeah I didn't see it in the Haynes manual. Hmmm. maybe the online manual? -- Original message -- Looking at the manual I don't find a direct indication of total capacity, but there are a few tidbits that might give you a clue. Total refrigerant capacity is 1.2kg of R-12. Using the dipstick, self made marked 22,2528mm from the end, level in the compressor should fall somewhere between the first last marks corresponding to a compressor capacity of between 180300cc. Total system capacity may well be in there someplace but it's not jumpin' out at me. joe On 8/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ... Anybody knows what the oil capacity is for the AC on a 72 250 w114 M130 w/ a york 210 compressor? ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Dallas auction 300SD
Says needs glow plugs, wonder if it is just the fuse? Not half bad looking, as much as can tell from the pic. --R http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=5822vType=1 Stock No: 15-36938 Lot No: 11 Year: 1980 Make: Mercedes Benz Model: 300 sd Color: Gray VIN: 11612012020185 Odometer: 212534 Location: Dallas Radio: Car Complete: Start: Tires Good: Battery: Spare Tire: DoorKey: Trunk Key: IgnitionKey: Anything wrong: Does not start, dead battery, needs glow plugs
[MBZ] Dallas auction 300SD]
Says needs glow plugs, wonder if it is just the fuse? Not half bad looking, as much as can tell from the pic. --R http://www.texascarsforkids.org/details.asp?CarId=5822vType=1 Stock No: 15-36938 Lot No: 11 Year: 1980 Make: Mercedes Benz Model: 300 sd Color: Gray VIN: 11612012020185 Odometer: 212534 Location: Dallas Radio: Car Complete: Start: Tires Good: Battery: Spare Tire: DoorKey: Trunk Key: IgnitionKey: Anything wrong: Does not start, dead battery, needs glow plugs
