Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon Rear strut/shock

2006-02-21 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Loren,

I'm no expert on the 124's...  But I don't think the rears are  
struts..

What I've chased shows the following:

Shock Absorber; Rear Left/Right; Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling   
They ain't cheap!


There are struts on the front only.

Hope this helps...

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Feb 20, 2006, at 4:40 PM, Real Estate wrote:

I want to rebuild the rear struts in the 88 TE.  I know others have  
rebuilt the 123 hydraulic struts.  Rusty can't find a kit to sell  
me for the 124 wagon struts.  Has anyone rebuilt 124 struts, or is  
the only choice to buy new ones?  I need a source for parts, and  
advice about any tools needed.  Are they simply o-rings, and I buy  
the boot and mouninting kit, then find orings locally?


  Les, are you lurking out there?  I think you have the answer?

  Loren Faeth
  88 300TE
  87 TD, et al




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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 04:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:


I plan to change the oil  filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - 
ordered

parts from Rusty -

How many quarts of oil (mobil 1)  will I need to buy?  How hard is it 
to get

to the oil filter?


	Should be 7.4 qts with filter but you'll never get it all in. Stop at 
6 and run the engine for a minute or two then wait a good long while, 
recheck and top-off. It should be no more difficult to get at the 
filter than one would expect.





Any unusual stuff I should expect?  I also ordered a AT Filter kit - 
need to

know how much ATF to buy?


5.8 qts if used and 7 if its brand new bone dry.




TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] 220D Trunk floor project

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 04:53 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


If you put grinding stones in it, it's a grinder.  If you put
cutoff wheels in it...  It's called a die grinder because die
makers use them.  To grind on their dies.  Obviously they have
other uses too.

-- Jim



Dentists have another name for it too.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon Rear strut/shock

2006-02-21 Thread Real Estate
Hi Chuck, 
   
  I know the new ones are $500 each.  I know the 123s can be rebuilt.  I am 
hoping there is a rebuild option for the 124.  Shock Absorber; Rear Left/Right; 
Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling is the book jargon.  I have heard them referred to 
as shocks and as struts.  I don't care what anyone wants to call them, I just 
hope I don't have to shell out $1000 (plus the other parts) to get this car 
running.
   
  Has anyone out there got a Shock Absorber;  Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling, 
that you could look at to see if it comes apart?
   
  Loren

Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Loren,

I'm no expert on the 124's... But I don't think the rears are 
struts..
What I've chased shows the following:

Shock Absorber; Rear Left/Right; Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling  
They ain't cheap!

There are struts on the front only.

Hope this helps...

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Feb 20, 2006, at 4:40 PM, Real Estate wrote:

 I want to rebuild the rear struts in the 88 TE. I know others have 
 rebuilt the 123 hydraulic struts. Rusty can't find a kit to sell 
 me for the 124 wagon struts. Has anyone rebuilt 124 struts, or is 
 the only choice to buy new ones? I need a source for parts, and 
 advice about any tools needed. Are they simply o-rings, and I buy 
 the boot and mouninting kit, then find orings locally?

 Les, are you lurking out there? I think you have the answer?

 Loren Faeth
 88 300TE
 87 TD, et al



 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic -  keeping warm
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On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 06:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 in other news..
 i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
 it has been  a mild winter here in phila
  i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  
 costs in
 my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use 
 for
 enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
 so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
 mike collins
 phila pa 1985 500 sec
 Go Villanova




Yup, we did this last week or so. I burn 5-6 cords each Winter. 2 
Vermont castings stoves.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


[MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-21 Thread Brian Chase
Driving around here in Tucson, I spotted an '82 CD for sale. I caught the 
owner as he came out of his jewelry shop. He says he is very interested in 
selling quickly to make room in his garage.


The thing looks real nice - light tan, clean from what I saw. Said the 
tranny was slipping but he had it fixed. Moonroof doesn't work.


I think he wants either 5500. or 6500. I forget. I got his number if anyone 
wants it. Oh, 141k mi.


No affiliation.

Brian

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Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey

Driving around here in Tucson, I spotted an '82 CD for sale.


When I saw the topic I thought: Rust spots?  Gateway paint job?

-- Jim




[MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Rory
I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her car out
of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged in to
the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord instead of
just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!

This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for being forgetful,
claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a day like me,
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it wouldn't
help!!

Thanks for listening.

Regards,

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey

so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?


This winter, since I'm unemployed, we stepped up the
use of wood to near 100%.  The furnace was only on one
weekend that we were away.  We have two old mid-70's
fireplace inserts, one up and one down.  Both have been
running continuously since November, and have consumed
all the dry wood I had for this year, and most of the
not-so-dry that I'd laid in for next.  Turns out my
woodshed is only half the size it needs to be.

The power bills have been significantly reduced, to
around $100/month.

Friends with an historic house have brought me the
rusted-out pieces of the Heatilator that was in their
fireplace to repair.  (Welding for beer, using my
finely-honed Frankenheap repair skills.)  Their heating
bills are running $400-$500/month, they're quite
interested in augmenting their heat using the fireplace,
yet don't want to ruin the look of the thing with an
insert.  Not to mention, a new insert costs more than
cases of beer!  Nor can a new Heatilator be purchased
at any price.  Without the Heatilator, using the wood
isn't a gain.  Too much lost up the chimney.  With it,
who knows?  We all figure it can't hurt.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Pics from my latest Beater-Benz journey

2006-02-21 Thread Rich Thomas
Those are some great pics!  Where (in W Texas) were they taken?  Making 
me think about a road trip.


--R

Pablo wrote:


Dell City/My Land/Carlsbad/Hike to Guadalupe Peak

http://www.pbdev.com/westtex/

p.




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Re: [MBZ] FWD GM tubs

2006-02-21 Thread Rich Thomas

Pls don't tell Elwood (my 76 Eldo) that.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The Toranado was and American oddity as it was the only major production
front wheel drive vehicle for years.

So you are ignoring the '67 Cad Eldo? And it's Toronado.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread PONDERSOA
i am going through 5 cord or so also 
osburn 2400 insert  i am thinking about getting a pellet  stove also!!!   
last months gas bill was bill was 277.00(  gd)
 
collins
1985 500 sec 
phila pa 


Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Hendrik Riessen

Leave it unplugged and make her walk.

Hendrik
who wouldn't have the guts to do something like that

- Original Message - 
From: Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Anger Management


I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her car 
out
of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged in 
to
the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord instead 
of

just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!

This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for being forgetful,
claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a day like me,
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it wouldn't
help!!

Thanks for listening.

Regards,

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] OT CD burning?

2006-02-21 Thread LT Don
K3B  Linux.

On 2/19/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've been happy with deepburner.
 www.deepburner.com

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1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen



Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Rich Thomas
When I lived near Boston I ran a woodstove in my kitchen of the old 
Victorian, kept the thermostat low, the heat went up the back stairs and 
kept upstairs nice and toasty.  When got ready to sell the house the 
realtor wanted to add up the oil bills, came to $500some for the winter, 
she refused to believe that.  Most people were spending that per month 
in the big old drafty houses.  I'd run the boiler in the morning to get 
the house warm and then when I got home to warm it up, one of those 
cheap timer thermos, set it way low over night and during the day.  I 
would scrounge wood from the neighborhood when the city or neighbors cut 
down trees, sometimes the city guys would drop off nice oak and maple 
they had cut up already into manageable chunks, i would split it.  A few 
6s now and again left out by the trash on pickup day kept the supply 
flowing.


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



In a message dated 2/20/2006 6:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA  
writes:


in other news..
i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
it has been  a mild winter here in phila  
i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  costs in 
my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use for 
enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)

so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
mike collins 
phila pa 1985 500 sec

Go Villanova




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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm -- YES GO 'NOVA!

2006-02-21 Thread Rich Thomas



Go Villanova




 






Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:46:59 -0800 Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I offered to drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims
 that it wouldn't help!!

I was the one in our house who drove off with the block heater plugged in.
I've taken to draping the power cord over the hood (we park on the street
and drive off in the forward direction).

One way might be to have her put her key inside the engine compartment (on
the W123 a good place is by the windshield washer fluid reservoir), close
the hood, connect up the block heater and drape the power cord over the
star on the hood. she will have to open the hood and see the cord before
she can get her key to start the car. That only works, though, if the car
is parked inside a garage where it can be left unlocked.

Another way, a little more work, would be to add under the hood a 120 V
relay that's powered when the block heater is. A set of normally open
contacts wired in parallel with the horn would insure that the horn would
sound when the ignition key is turned on with the power cord plugged in.
(IIRC, the horn won't sound even if the horn ring is pressed when the key
is off.)


Craig




Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread LT Don
Could be worse. I did that last winter (leaving work) in front of our
CEO, who unfortuantely shares my sick sense of humor. I even got a
small write up about it in the company newsletter, about my Electric
Benz.

On 2/20/06, Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her car out
 of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged in to
 the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord instead of
 just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!




--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen



[MBZ] CD Wiring?

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

Howdy -
Still learning about my 91 300D - the radio is CD compatible - does that 
mean the wiring is pre-installed?

Would make installation a *lot* easier -

Not sure what kind of radio it is - it says Mercedes Benz on it - does 
that mean it's a Becker?


;-)TIA

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 






Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 07:46 PM, Rory wrote:

I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her 
car out
of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged 
in to
the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord 
instead of

just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!

This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for being 
forgetful,
claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a day like 
me,
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I 
offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it 
wouldn't

help!!

Thanks for listening.

Regards,

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA


	The easy answer is only plug the car in when absolutely necessary and 
unplug it and start the car for her when its that cold. How often does 
the ambient temperature get lower than 0 F? What year and model is her 
car? What year and model is your car?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I 
offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it 
wouldn't

help!!


Perhaps loop it through the door handle?  EMT guys have self-ejecting
plug-ins on the front of their rigs.  (They spit when the key goes
on.)  In the worst case maybe you could buy one and install it
underneath enough that it worked well, yet wasn't ugly.  They're
not cheap, though.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror Owners Manual for my 91 300D

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner
Geez, Chuck!  That sounds VIOLENT!!  I'll take a look when the new mirror 
arrives - it's from Rusty so it'll probably be here *really* quickly!


;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mats, Mirror  Owners Manual for my 91 300D



Larry,

I recently replaced the interior mirror on my new 190E 2.3 16V...

1.  Hold securely as close to the top of the mirror post as
possible and JERK IT OUT down and to the rear.

2.  Place one side of the new mirror, preferably the left side
sitting in the car, into the slot Getting one end of the spring
loaded whatsits into the receiver.  I then placed the bottom
of a moderate sized hammer handle up next to the post  and hit as
hard as I could w/the palm of my hand trying to deliver the force of
the blow up and to the left.  It worked...

And I didn't break anything...

Hope this helps

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
1986 190E 2.3 16Valve
1980 300SD

On Feb 20, 2006, at 2:16 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I ordered a new inside rear
view mirror and now I'm wondering how to get the old one off?  Does
it just
pop out of the ball socket swivel joint?  And then pop the new one
in?  The
old one is damaged - the plastic frams is broken with the night/day
switch
missing.


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[MBZ] FS Manual Transmission and associated parts...

2006-02-21 Thread Richard Hattaway
I have a 4 speed transmission, clutch, flywheel, flywheel bolts,
pressure plate, pedal hardware, shift linkage, and long drive shaft
sitting under my workbench.  Parts are from a 240D.  It's a great start
in the process of converting from an automatic to a manual.  If anybody
is interested in it, I can part with it for lots less than the
commercial scrappers are selling them for on Ebay.  Please drop me an
email and lets discuss.  I am only interested in local pickup.  I
cannot ship it, or at least cannot ship it for any reasonable shipping
fees, as I would have to take it to a boxer and that cannot be cheap.

Lets find it a home and supplement my fishing hobby account.

Richard
Salisbury NC 

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Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread BillR
Rory - When we wanted to plug in our ambulances in the winter [in Indiana,
not Florida] and were concerned about that the solution suggested was to
make sure there was a plug that was anchored near the wall socket and
anchored under the ambulance so that the pull would always separate the wire
safely and the strain did not rip out the wiring on the heater when it
pulled apart.  Middle of the night calls in winter did not lend themselves
to long start / warm up times and this helped to protect the engines and our
wiring.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  EM  271K miles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rory
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Anger Management

I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her car out
of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged in to
the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord instead of
just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!

This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for being forgetful,
claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a day like me,
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it wouldn't
help!!

Thanks for listening.

Regards,

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 220D Trunk floor project

2006-02-21 Thread David Brodbeck

kevin kraly wrote:

Hi, Dimitri.

Since I've only got $175 in my 220D including the battery, I don't think 
that I'll be doing anything to the trunk for quite a while.


You could do what I did on my old Volvo 240.  I used a 3M Rust And Paint 
Removal Wheel to remove as much rust and bubbled paint as I could, then 
cut off the danglies to make a relatively smooth opening. Painted with 
rust converter on both sides, then primed it. Once the paint was dry, I 
cut patches out of galvanized sheet metal from Home Depot, leaving a bit 
of overlap all around, and pop-riveted them in place with a bit of 
silicone sealer in between.  It looked like hell, but it kept the water 
and exhaust fumes out.  The only power tool I used was a cordless 
electric drill; a pair of aviation snips, pliers, vise grips, and a 
pop-rivet gun took care of the rest.  Don't forget to wear a dust mask 
when using the paint removal wheel, and don't skip the rust converter 
and primer steps or you'll just have a bigger hole in a year.





Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 07:49 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


 Without the Heatilator, using the wood
isn't a gain.  Too much lost up the chimney.  With it,
who knows?  We all figure it can't hurt.

-- Jim



	Fireplaces are a waste of wood. not only are they inefficient in the 
task of making heat from wood but you have a gaping hole in your house 
sucking out the heat as it dies out. Close the damper too soon and you 
get a house full of smoke. 	Find a good used insert or wood stove for 
him. Earn kegs of beer for pick-up, modification installation.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] 220D Trunk floor project

2006-02-21 Thread Dimitri Seretakis



 
 You might want to consider the Nibbler - made for
 cutting metal - fits in a 
 drill - electric or air powered - and nibbles
 little chunks of metal - 
 like chewing.  Eastwood carries them along with some
 others.  

I actually have the Eastwood drill mounted nibbler. 
Its ok for making coarse cuts but lacks precision. 
It's hard to keep the thing cutting in a straight
line.  Also the dies wear out fast and are not cheap
to replace.  Another problem is that it cuts out a
wide strip of metal making it hard to judge were the
edge of what you are cutting is.  I was wondering
about electric shears like those made by Milwaukee and
Bosch.  
I think there are two and three blade varieties. 
Anyone have any experience with these?

For fabrication purposes a Beverly shear would be
awesome!

Dimitri

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Re: [MBZ] bobby lickus?

2006-02-21 Thread David Brodbeck

Donald Snook wrote:

During a particularly nasty snow/ice storm. I still had the
Olds. I drove it to runs some errands because I didn't want to drive the
benz and get it all salty.  My wife took the olds to work 30 minutes
later and I had to drive the benz.  The 90 124 was awful in the snow.
It had new (all season) tires on it. It slid around and got stuck and
was miserable to drive.  I put the snow tires on it that day and it
improved. But, given any amount of snow I would much rather drive the
oldsmobile than a rear wheel drive benz.  
  


It's all about getting weight over the driving wheels. When I lived in 
Ann Arbor I had a Volvo 240DL wagon and my boyfriend had a '99 Chevy 
Malibu.  (He's still got the Malibu, but the tinworm got the Volvo.)  
The Volvo initially was *terrible* in the snow, but the Malibu was like 
a tractor -- great traction and it went where you pointed it.  I put 120 
pounds of sand in the back of the Volvo and suddenly it was much better, 
almost a match for the Malibu.  You do have to be more on your toes with 
a RWD car, though, because it will oversteer and fishtail, while a FWD 
car will just understeer.  Most people find understeer more intuitive to 
deal with, which I suspect is part of the reason FWD cars have a 
reputation for being good in snow.




Re: [MBZ] OT CD burning?

2006-02-21 Thread David Brodbeck

Bob DuPuy wrote:

I guess I am a retard. I'm trying to burn a cd from an ISO image. All
I seem to be able to do is to make a cd with an ISO file on it. What
is the favored method of burning so the CD comes out with usable
files.
  


If you're running Windows XP, try ISO Recorder:
http://isorecorder.alexfeinman.com/isorecorder.htm

It adds a 'Copy to CD' option to Explorer that comes up when you 
right-click on an ISO file.




Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Sunil Hari
I changed the oil and filter yesterday (22 F) - drained 7+ quarts of oil.
Just replace what you drain.  I haven't done the ATF or rear diff yet, and
I'm not going to for a while.

This is because I had my ACL and MCL rebuilt today, aka I blew out my knee
Carson Palmer-style and I had surgery to fix it today.

So now I'm laid up for a week, with nothing to do but hit refresh on
gmail.

Rusty, do I get a get-well present?

On 2/20/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 04:51 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  I plan to change the oil  filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week -
  ordered
  parts from Rusty -
 
  How many quarts of oil (mobil 1)  will I need to buy?  How hard is it
  to get
  to the oil filter?

 Should be 7.4 qts with filter but you'll never get it all in. Stop
 at
 6 and run the engine for a minute or two then wait a good long while,
 recheck and top-off. It should be no more difficult to get at the
 filter than one would expect.


 
  Any unusual stuff I should expect?  I also ordered a AT Filter kit -
  need to
  know how much ATF to buy?

 5.8 qts if used and 7 if its brand new bone dry.


 
  TIA -
 
  Sincerely,
  Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 
 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am
 ___
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread PONDERSOA
when i moved in my house my neighbors were getting 800 a month gas  bills
my neighbor  used to laugh at me for collecting wood !
 
( if i EVER got a 800 dollar bill for ANYTHING  i would have laid on  the 
floor and instantaneously had a baby and  died .)
 
 i used a smaller stove the first year the second year i purchased a  larger 
one osburn 2400 
 my bills have been 160 to 300 ever since 
 however my neighbor across the street has received an $1800.00  (eighteen 
hundred) dollar gas bill ...( yep that's right)
 he does not laugh at me any more 
collins 
1985 500 sec 
phila pa 
 


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer
and another one across the river from Philly - we're using a Better'n'Ben 
insert 24/7, and have about 5 acres of wood that is going to waste!  But not 
using oil feels REAL good.

Werner



- Original Message - 
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm




On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 06:20 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



in other news..
i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
it has been  a mild winter here in phila
 i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating
costs in
my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use
for
enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
mike collins
phila pa 1985 500 sec
Go Villanova





Yup, we did this last week or so. I burn 5-6 cords each Winter. 2
Vermont castings stoves.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am





Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Rory
Thanks for your comments all.

I too did not have the nerve to take the keys and make her walk, although I
threatened to not replace it and was quickly rebuffed when she stated that I
would no longer be eating since she couldn't get to the store (I do so enjoy
eating!).  I've decided to unplug her car at the beginning of the day when I
leave for work.  Hers is the 82 300TD with about half a million miles.  It
doesn't get too cold here, only to the teens lately, but it's so much nicer
to the car even then.

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD


Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

hahahahahahahahahahahbahahaha

Good luck

Rory wrote:


I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, backed her car out
of the drive and drove down the street with the extension cord plugged in to
the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off the cord instead of
just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!

This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for being forgetful,
claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a day like me,
that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the heater.  I offered to
drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims that it wouldn't
help!!

Thanks for listening.

Regards,

Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] CD Wiring?

2006-02-21 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Yes, its prewired.  The radio is a becker, its actually a 3 piece deal. 
 The head unit, then the actual radio unit is in the trunk, behind the 
liner on the passenger side.  The 3rd piece is the amp.  You can use a 
certain model of alpine cd changer, but requires 3 different adaptors, 
wiring harnesses etc.  2 of the adapters can be ordered from any car 
audio shop, they are made by PIE.  The 3rd one is some sort of converter 
box you have to get at the dealer.  Its about $160 I think last time I 
ordered one.  Think the other adapters are about $60 each or so.  You 
have to plug all that mess together and it will work.  The dealer should 
have the instruction sheet for it.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Howdy -
Still learning about my 91 300D - the radio is CD compatible - does that 
mean the wiring is pre-installed?

Would make installation a *lot* easier -

Not sure what kind of radio it is - it says Mercedes Benz on it - does 
that mean it's a Becker?


;-)TIA

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread OK Don
Mobil 1, valves adjusted, fresh bettery? Then don't bother plugguing it in!

On 2/20/06, Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Thanks for your comments all.

 I too did not have the nerve to take the keys and make her walk, although I
 threatened to not replace it and was quickly rebuffed when she stated that I
 would no longer be eating since she couldn't get to the store (I do so enjoy
 eating!).  I've decided to unplug her car at the beginning of the day when I
 leave for work.  Hers is the 82 300TD with about half a million miles.  It
 doesn't get too cold here, only to the teens lately, but it's so much nicer
 to the car even then.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] [Banned] any thoughts on our new look?

2006-02-21 Thread M.Afzaal Khan

Very nice indeed . !
mak
- Original Message - 
From: M. Mitchell Marmel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Banned List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [Banned] any thoughts on our new look?



At 12:47 PM -0500 2/20/06, Gary Hurst wrote:

http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html#http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html


Pretty slick.

-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Chuck Landenberger


On Feb 20, 2006, at 7:14 PM, Sunil Hari wrote:



This is because I had my ACL and MCL rebuilt today, aka I blew out  
my knee

Carson Palmer-style and I had surgery to fix it today.

So now I'm laid up for a week, with nothing to do but hit refresh on
gmail.


Sunil,

I hope you were you getting paid Carson Palmer-style bucks when you  
blew out your knee


If so, you can afford to have somebody else do all the work.!!!   
Just kidding!!


Get well quick and get back under your Benz

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ



Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about 7 in 
before its over full.  That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a 
lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so long 
to really let it drain.  And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall 
pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can take 
literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase.  So the accepted 
rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add and 
full marks.


Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take the 
trouble to drain the torque converter.  Add to that the complication that 
the full mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at operating 
temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.


I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing 
either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the 
differential.


And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I went 
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror is 
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly to 
the glass.  I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



I plan to change the oil  filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered
parts from Rusty -

How many quarts of oil (mobil 1)  will I need to buy?  How hard is it to 
get

to the oil filter?

Any unusual stuff I should expect?  I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need 
to

know how much ATF to buy?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)





Re: [MBZ] FWD Cads

2006-02-21 Thread RELNGSON
So you are ignoring the '67 Cad Eldo? And it's Toronado

The 1967 Eldorado was unlike every previous Cadillac not only in that it had 
front-wheel drive but in style and attitude. Cadillac had never before made a 
coupe with no accompanying sedan (there wouldn't be a four-door front-drive 
Caddy until the 1980 Seville), and the '67 Eldorado was also the only coupe 
that 
wasn't offered as a convertible. And no Cadillac had ever looked like the 
hidden-headlight, aggressively modern '67 Eldorado, either. Credit GM designer 
Bill Mitchell for the truly gorgeous, almost arrogant '67 Eldo.

Beneath its skin, the '67 Eldorado had at least as much in common with the 
Oldsmobile Toronado as it did with any other Caddy. The Toronado had ushered in 
front-wheel drive to the General Motors lineup the previous year, and most of 
that car's structure and drivetrain carried over to the Eldo. Most prominent 
of the shared pieces was the Turbohydramatic three-speed automatic transaxle, 
which essentially put the transmission beside the longitudinally mounted 
engine, with power transmitted by a chain. Also coming over from the Toronado 
was 
the A-arm front suspension incorporating long torsion bars instead of coil 
springs and the solid rear axle with leaf springs.

Obviously, though, the Eldorado needed Cadillac power, and it used the same 
340 horsepower 429-cubic-inch V8 as other Caddies with changes in the exhaust 
manifolds, oil pan and accessory drive system to accommodate the peculiar 
drivetrain.

Priced at $6,277 (more than any DeVille, but less than a Fleetwood), the '67 
Eldorado carried all the luxury equipment of a Fleetwood and, despite its two 
doors, had room for six passengers. It was instantly the most popular Eldorado 
ever and sold 17,930 units that first year (only 2,250 '66 Eldorados were 
sold). It was a bold, confident step forward for Cadillac.

Except for moving the front parking lamps to the leading edge of the fenders 
and extending the hood's trailing edge to hide the windshield wipers, the 1968 
Eldorado was barely distinguishable from the '67. Under the hood, however, 
were some substantive changes as the engine grew to 472 cubic-inches and its 
output increased to 375 horsepower. Additionally, the suspension was softened 
somewhat.

Except for a new front grille with exposed headlamps, the 1969 Eldorado 
pretty much carried over from '68.

For 1970, Cadillac revived the tradition of the more powerful Eldorado when 
it bounced displacement on the engine up to a full 500 cubic-inches and output 
to 400 horsepower, while other Cadillacs stayed with the 472 V8 with 375 
horsepower. The grille was revised again, and for the first time metric engine 
measurements were heralded by an 8.2 litre badge in that grille. It would be 
a 
long time before the Eldo would again be as athletic as the '70 model.

RLE



[MBZ] W124 TD rear leveling AGAIN!

2006-02-21 Thread Jeff Zedic

 OK,

I'm beginning to get a little pissed here..

I replaced the spheres on my car. At the tim e the rear didn't level 
with the added load, but it didn't bottom out with my added weight. When 
I replaced the spheres there was plenty of pressure in the lines leading 
me to believe that my tandem pump was fine.


Now with the new spheres and a full reservoir of fluid, I have the rear 
bottoming out and skipping all over the road whenever I hit a decent 
sized bump.


Underneath the car tonight, I loosened the control rod nut and was 
hoping to fill the system this way. There was NO resistance from the 
valve at all..I could spin it round and round with no tension! Is my 
valve bad.my tandem pump...


Any help is appreciated!


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD



Re: [MBZ] OT CD burning?

2006-02-21 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Don't try to drag and drop to cd, it won't work. Open up cd burning 
program and dig through the menues till you find the burn from image 
option, then select the iso image and burn. That will get you a 
functional CD


---Robert

Bob DuPuy wrote:

I guess I am a retard. I'm trying to burn a cd from an ISO image. All
I seem to be able to do is to make a cd with an ISO file on it. What
is the favored method of burning so the CD comes out with usable
files.

Thanks,
Bob DuPuy

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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Steve Marci
I have been using only wood for heating for 35 years. We now have a 
Regency. I cut 3 cords of alder/maple a year off our place in the fall so 
I'm always a season ahead.  I've fabracated a propane log lighter in 
the stove which eliminates the need for kindling or wadded up paper. I use 
about 5 gallons of propane in 6 mos. The black iron pipe is replaced with 
stainless steel which lasts a couple years.  I should have done this years 
ago, it really takes the hassle outa burning wood.


Regards
Steve
85 Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
79 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
94 Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
82 TD project wagon
64 VW Bug
65 D15, AC tractor

 so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?








Re: [MBZ] FWD Cads

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 10:49 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


It would be a
long time before the Eldo would again be as athletic as the '70 model.


	Either you borrowed that Eldo history lesson (very nice by the way) 
from somewhere or you ought to be writing for Road and Track.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] CD Wiring?

2006-02-21 Thread Sunil Hari
Or you buy an iPod and an FM broadcaster for it, and you ditch CDs entirely.

On 2/20/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes, its prewired.  The radio is a becker, its actually a 3 piece deal.
   The head unit, then the actual radio unit is in the trunk, behind the
 liner on the passenger side.  The 3rd piece is the amp.  You can use a
 certain model of alpine cd changer, but requires 3 different adaptors,
 wiring harnesses etc.  2 of the adapters can be ordered from any car
 audio shop, they are made by PIE.  The 3rd one is some sort of converter
 box you have to get at the dealer.  Its about $160 I think last time I
 ordered one.  Think the other adapters are about $60 each or so.  You
 have to plug all that mess together and it will work.  The dealer should
 have the instruction sheet for it.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Howdy -
  Still learning about my 91 300D - the radio is CD compatible - does that
  mean the wiring is pre-installed?
  Would make installation a *lot* easier -
 
  Not sure what kind of radio it is - it says Mercedes Benz on it - does
  that mean it's a Becker?
 
  ;-)TIA
 
  Sincerely,
  Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
  A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
  For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
  Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
  http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
 
 
 
  ___
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  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] W124 TD rear leveling AGAIN!

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 10:53 PM, Jeff Zedic wrote:


Underneath the car tonight, I loosened the control rod nut and was
hoping to fill the system this way. There was NO resistance from the
valve at all..I could spin it round and round with no tension! Is 
my

valve bad.my tandem pump...

Any help is appreciated!


Jeff Zedic



	I think there are no detents or they are weakly sprung on the control 
valve. If my memory serves me well, the only time I felt resistance is 
when it went into by-pass. Its not clear what you loosened but the link 
from the control valve arm and the sway bar is what should be remove to 
manually operate the valve.
	If air is suspect, the system is supposed to self-bleed but opening 
the bleeder and operating the valve helps. It should lower with the 
engine off so be careful operating the valve under there. You did have 
the engine running? Have a look at where the bracket attaches to the 
sway bar too. The pinch bolt can be loose.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] FWD Cads

2006-02-21 Thread David Brodbeck
The Toronado front wheel drive assembly was also used -- with a 454 -- 
to power GMC motorhomes. It was pretty stout for a front wheel drive 
drivetrain.  It used a longitudinally-mounted engine, unlike most modern 
front wheel drive cars.




[MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-21 Thread Sunil Hari
When I changed the main fuel filter on my 92 300D, I filled it as best I
could, then crammed it into place and reattached everything.  The
maintenance manual said the system is self-priming.

Then, when I went to start it, it died after about 3 seconds, then damn near
drained the battery because I had to crank it for about a minute.  Even had
to jump start it with my other car.  It finally started and hasn't been a
problem since.

Is this duration of cranking after a filter change normal?

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-21 Thread Jeff Zedic

Sunil,

Yes, it's a scary-long-time to self-primepersonally I had no 
problem with the manual pumpat least they were a lkot easier to 
start after a filter change!!

Wait until you run out of fuel one time! It takes even longer!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto



Re: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 11:36 PM, Sunil Hari wrote:



Is this duration of cranking after a filter change normal?

--



Yes.

	I like to fill the filter, then take the old one off, then top-off the 
new one as sometimes they soak up a little fuel. It will take a good 
amount of cranking. The more fuel you get into the filter the less you 
have to crank. That's how the self bleeding system is.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] FWD vs. RWD (was: bobby lickus?)

2006-02-21 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Front wheel drive is somewhat better for getting started, but on ice, 
the back end is like trying to control a trailer.
For snow driving my favourite is my '93 Volvo 940 turbo, rear wheel 
drive with an automatic locking differential and a set of four studded 
Nokian snow tires and 2 40 pound sacks of kitty litter in the trunk. It 
will go anywhere comfortably,and i really love passing stuck 4x4's in it.
My 300sd did pretty nice with a set of studless friction tires, but not 
as good as the volvo ( got to love that locking diff :-) If you had a 
locking diff on a 300sd it would be unstoppable.
I had a fwd rabbit that I could get around OK on the white stuff, but I 
had to drive like I was racing to keep the rear end behind me.
I had a pontiac Phoenix fwd for awhile living in the northwest, with 
snow tires  it was OK going uphil or flat, but downright scary going 
downhill.


Robert
M

Dave M. wrote:

I'm with Click  Clack. FWD came about because it was cheaper to
manufacture. It's not optimal for performance of any kind. The only
advantage in snow or slick roads is starting from a stop, due to the
higher percentage of weight on the front tires. Once in motion, you
have less control with FWD. On the flip side, while you have more
control with RWD, it takes a lot more driver skill to use the extra
abilities. It's easier to get into trouble with RWD, and once again if
you don't have the skills to control oversteer, you're in trouble,
probably more so than with FWD. Which all adds up to them claiming
FWD is better. A RWD car with some kitty litter in the trunk as
ballast, plus FOUR (not two) good snow tires, is a great setup and I'd
take that any day over FWD. One caveat... in either case, a
limited-slip differential is something I *really* like... open diffs
(which result in one spinning tire) are annoying!

Now, AWD is way better than either of the above, but there are
penalties in cost, maintenance, fuel economy, and weight. Too bad MB
never imported the 300D 4Matic over here (the 124.333, which was the
AWD version of the 124.133.)

Traction tires also make a HUGE difference in driveability on slick
roads... my 123 was nearly undriveable with so-called all season
Yokohamas, but with four Kumho KW-11 studless snows, it was
unstoppable. The best test would be to drive a FWD and RWD car back to
back, same day, same conditions, with the same snow tires for
comparison!

dons snow suit over the flame suit

:-)

-Dave M.

  

--
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:00:01 -0600
From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] bobby lickus?




FWD's vaunted snow handling ability was informally put to the test a few
years ago by Click  Clack, they compared an Acura to some old land
yacht on a nasty day.  The land yacht sailed circles around the Acura,
and they attributed it all to weight.  FWD lets you make a lighter car
but with more of its weight on the driven wheels, approximating the
traction a heavier car would have. That's pretty much all it does for
you.
  


I could not disagree more.  When I bought my 90 300D I was driving a
1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera.  It was the most boring and unspectacular car
around.  During a particularly nasty snow/ice storm. I still had the
Olds. I drove it to runs some errands because I didn't want to drive the
benz and get it all salty.  My wife took the olds to work 30 minutes
later and I had to drive the benz.  The 90 124 was awful in the snow.
It had new (all season) tires on it. It slid around and got stuck and
was miserable to drive.  I put the snow tires on it that day and it
improved. But, given any amount of snow I would much rather drive the
oldsmobile than a rear wheel drive benz.



Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL



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Re: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

2006-02-21 Thread Dave M.
Sunil,

That's about normal if you don't fill the new filter up before
installing it. I made that mistake only once. Now I keep some cans of
Diesel Purge handy, and fill the new filter with Purge before
installing. Works like a charm. With a dry filter, the car will die
after a few seconds and you'll likely kill the battery trying to get
it primed  re-started. You can fill it with fresh diesel also, or
even pour the diesel from the old filter into the new one (via the
'dirty' side), although that's probably not the best thing to do, lol.

=)

-Dave M.

 --
 Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:36:29 -0500
 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] main fuel filter question

 When I changed the main fuel filter on my 92 300D, I filled it as best I
 could, then crammed it into place and reattached everything.  The
 maintenance manual said the system is self-priming.

 Then, when I went to start it, it died after about 3 seconds, then damn near
 drained the battery because I had to crank it for about a minute.  Even had
 to jump start it with my other car.  It finally started and hasn't been a
 problem since.

 Is this duration of cranking after a filter change normal?

 --
 Sunil Hari
 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.



Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey
And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - 
I went
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the 
mirror is
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not 
directly to

the glass.  I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.


Yeah, a Chevy!  (I've had plenty of Chevy mirrors land in my lap.
Enough that I grabbed an old Dodge pickup mirror from the boneyard
and screwed it to the ceiling of my Chevy pickup.  That ended the
problem there.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey

Fireplaces are a waste of wood. not only are they inefficient in the
task of making heat from wood but you have a gaping hole in your house
sucking out the heat as it dies out. Close the damper too soon and you
get a house full of smoke.  Find a good used insert or wood stove for
him. Earn kegs of beer for pick-up, modification installation.


As the owners of a historic home they wish to maintain the original
appearance (more-or-less, especially in the showpiece living room)
and so don't really want to eliminate the fireplace if the Heatilator
(a poor-man's insert) will work at all.  The fireplace in question
has glass doors, etc., already.  They are closed during operation
of the Heatilator.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Nothing

2006-02-21 Thread MICHAEL ESH


Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Trampas
Rory,

Cars and extension cords are cheap as compared to wives! 

Along the same notes I have found my life to be a whole lot less stressful
when I finally realized it was not my job in life to educate people. That is
I am not here to teach idiots on the road how to drive, nor am I here to
teach my wife about cars. Well unless she wants to learn. 

What finally made the wife and cars happy was when I said OK dear I am
tired of being beat up about the cars, I'll make a deal with you. You go
pick out any car you want and we will buy it. However you have to be
responsible for the car and repairs.  Since we were having our first kid
she and I went looking for cars. She test drove a mini-van, and a 560SEL.
She asked which was more reliable and safer, I told her that the 560SEL was
safer and that her current car was the more reliable as that everything that
could break had been replaced. 

It took her about 2 months and she decided that the 560SEL was what she
wanted. I have not heard a peep about the cars since. 

As far as the extension cord, fix the car as Don mentioned such that it will
start with out being plugged in. Then when she complains about how long it
takes to heat up hand her an extension cord and have her plug it in at
night. She will then remember to unplug it. 

Trampas


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 9:46 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anger Management

Mobil 1, valves adjusted, fresh bettery? Then don't bother plugguing it in!

On 2/20/06, Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Thanks for your comments all.

 I too did not have the nerve to take the keys and make her walk, although
I
 threatened to not replace it and was quickly rebuffed when she stated that
I
 would no longer be eating since she couldn't get to the store (I do so
enjoy
 eating!).  I've decided to unplug her car at the beginning of the day when
I
 leave for work.  Hers is the 82 300TD with about half a million miles.  It
 doesn't get too cold here, only to the teens lately, but it's so much
nicer
 to the car even then.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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[MBZ] Taking care of your woman, was Anger Management

2006-02-21 Thread Lee Levitt

 Rory wrote:
 
  I have to vent!  My Bride, for the second time in 5 days, 
 backed her car out
  of the drive and drove down the street with the extension 
 cord plugged in to
  the block heater.  Except today, the plug was ripped off 
 the cord instead of
  just coming unplugged.  AGGGHHH!!
  
  This woman, who never misses an opportunity to dog me for 
 being forgetful,
  claims that since she doesn't think about cars 24 hours a 
 day like me,
  that she can't be expected to remember to unplug the 
 heater.  I offered to
  drape the cord over the rearview mirror, but she claims 
 that it wouldn't
  help!!
 


So speaking as a jerk who's been married to the same (long-suffering) woman
for the past 20 years, I'd say just let it go.

Sure, unplug it for her...if that works. 

Or give her a picture of yourself in a small frame with the words Unplug
before driving off to put on the dashboard or steering wheel when she plugs
in.

Make it easy for her to be successful on this. Stop making her wrong.

Or sleep in the garage. Alone.

Just my .02.

Lee




Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

Hey Mike,
I've had the fire going in my fireplace insert off and on since Nov.  I wait 
until the temp will be consistantly below 45-50F.


I'm home all the time (disabled) so it's easy for me to feed the monster. 
The doors seal really well choking the fire down so it's controlled.  So I 
only have to refill it about 3 times a day - morning, afternoon and before 
bed.  On really cold nights I'll get up at 3 or so and check it.


I like the smell and seeing a curl of smoke coming out of the chimney is 
pleasant to see.  But it *is* kinda messy - everytime I bring wood into the 
house I get the broom and dustpan to clean up.---


;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 6:20 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm




In a message dated 2/20/2006 6:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA
writes:

in other news..
i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
it has been  a mild winter here in phila
i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  costs 
in

my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use for
enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
mike collins
phila pa 1985 500 sec
Go Villanova




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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

you wrote:,,add up the oil bills, came to $500some for the winter,
she refused to believe that

HA!  Reminds me of when we lived in the mountains of western MD - where it 
gets *really* cold.  One Jan AM it was 90F below windshill - the wind found 
a way to get into the basement and freeze a water line!  Br.


When we fired up the wood/coal stove the gas company came out to check out 
furnace - siad the bill was *too* low - we weren't using enough gas!  They 
thought I had bypassed their metering system!  Creeps!


Same town that has a $100 min water/sewage bill!  The house was empty for a 
month between renters and we were *pisses* when that bill came in - $100 
freakin' dollars with *no* one in the house!!  Crooks!  Where we live now, 
our water bill is around $35 for 2 months!  Zero for sewage as we have a 
septic system.


Anyway -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm



When I lived near Boston I ran a woodstove in my kitchen of the old
Victorian, kept the thermostat low, the heat went up the back stairs and
kept upstairs nice and toasty.  When got ready to sell the house the
realtor wanted to add up the oil bills, came to $500some for the winter,
she refused to believe that.  Most people were spending that per month
in the big old drafty houses.  I'd run the boiler in the morning to get
the house warm and then when I got home to warm it up, one of those
cheap timer thermos, set it way low over night and during the day.  I
would scrounge wood from the neighborhood when the city or neighbors cut
down trees, sometimes the city guys would drop off nice oak and maple
they had cut up already into manageable chunks, i would split it.  A few
6s now and again left out by the trash on pickup day kept the supply
flowing.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



In a message dated 2/20/2006 6:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA
writes:

in other news..
i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
it has been  a mild winter here in phila
i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  costs 
in

my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use for
enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
mike collins
phila pa 1985 500 sec
Go Villanova




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Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon Rear strut/shock

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner
Don't know about the W123 Hydropneumatic struts - but the old W108s used one 
next to the rear axle and they were *not* rebuildable.  There were some 
companies offering a coil spring kit to replace a bad hydro strut.  I 
bought a spring kit for around $55 IIRC.  I believe the struts were almost 
$500 at the time.


I really like those old W108s, W109s  W111's but they require deep pockets 
to keep them going.   I wish I still had one though.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Real Estate [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon Rear strut/shock



Hi Chuck,

 I know the new ones are $500 each.  I know the 123s can be rebuilt.  I am 
hoping there is a rebuild option for the 124.  Shock Absorber; Rear 
Left/Right; Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling is the book jargon.  I have heard 
them referred to as shocks and as struts.  I don't care what anyone wants 
to call them, I just hope I don't have to shell out $1000 (plus the other 
parts) to get this car running.


 Has anyone out there got a Shock Absorber;  Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling, 
that you could look at to see if it comes apart?


 Loren

Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Loren,

I'm no expert on the 124's... But I don't think the rears are
struts..
What I've chased shows the following:

Shock Absorber; Rear Left/Right; Hydropneumatic Self-Leveling  
They ain't cheap!


There are struts on the front only.

Hope this helps...

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Feb 20, 2006, at 4:40 PM, Real Estate wrote:


I want to rebuild the rear struts in the 88 TE. I know others have
rebuilt the 123 hydraulic struts. Rusty can't find a kit to sell
me for the 124 wagon struts. Has anyone rebuilt 124 struts, or is
the only choice to buy new ones? I need a source for parts, and
advice about any tools needed. Are they simply o-rings, and I buy
the boot and mouninting kit, then find orings locally?

Les, are you lurking out there? I think you have the answer?

Loren Faeth
88 300TE
87 TD, et al




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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

you wrote: Find a good used insert or wood stove 

I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough but 
the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing heat. 
The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove but the 
freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with a small fan 
oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was substantial.


The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes up 
valuable floor space.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm




On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 07:49 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


 Without the Heatilator, using the wood
isn't a gain.  Too much lost up the chimney.  With it,
who knows?  We all figure it can't hurt.

-- Jim



Fireplaces are a waste of wood. not only are they inefficient in the
task of making heat from wood but you have a gaping hole in your house
sucking out the heat as it dies out. Close the damper too soon and you
get a house full of smoke. Find a good used insert or wood stove for
him. Earn kegs of beer for pick-up, modification installation.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

you wrote:my bills have been 160 to 300 ever since

however my neighbor across the street has received an $1800.00  (eighteen
hundred) dollar gas bill 


And they probably no longer wonder how you can drive a very nice MB!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm



when i moved in my house my neighbors were getting 800 a month gas  bills
my neighbor  used to laugh at me for collecting wood !

( if i EVER got a 800 dollar bill for ANYTHING  i would have laid on  the
floor and instantaneously had a baby and  died .)

i used a smaller stove the first year the second year i purchased a 
larger

one osburn 2400
my bills have been 160 to 300 ever since
however my neighbor across the street has received an $1800.00  (eighteen
hundred) dollar gas bill ...( yep that's right)
he does not laugh at me any more
collins
1985 500 sec
phila pa

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Re: [MBZ] CD Wiring?

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

Thanks Kaleb -
   With everyone's help I'll soon learn how my new MB works!
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CD Wiring?



Yes, its prewired.  The radio is a becker, its actually a 3 piece deal.
 The head unit, then the actual radio unit is in the trunk, behind the
liner on the passenger side.  The 3rd piece is the amp.  You can use a
certain model of alpine cd changer, but requires 3 different adaptors,
wiring harnesses etc.  2 of the adapters can be ordered from any car
audio shop, they are made by PIE.  The 3rd one is some sort of converter
box you have to get at the dealer.  Its about $160 I think last time I
ordered one.  Think the other adapters are about $60 each or so.  You
have to plug all that mess together and it will work.  The dealer should
have the instruction sheet for it.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Howdy -
Still learning about my 91 300D - the radio is CD compatible - does that
mean the wiring is pre-installed?
Would make installation a *lot* easier -

Not sure what kind of radio it is - it says Mercedes Benz on it - does
that mean it's a Becker?

;-)TIA

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner
Werner wrote:my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view 
mirror 


Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy.  ;-)

Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as 
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and 
obviously dino juice.  I don't like that stuff!


I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned 
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this model? 
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr


I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it.  I 
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the 
TC when the time comes.   I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a drain 
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the 
pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount 
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)


Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions


Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about 7 
in

before its over full.  That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so 
long

to really let it drain.  And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can take
literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase.  So the accepted
rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add and
full marks.

Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take the
trouble to drain the torque converter.  Add to that the complication that
the full mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at operating
temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.

I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
differential.

And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I 
went
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror 
is
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly 
to

the glass.  I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



I plan to change the oil  filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered
parts from Rusty -

How many quarts of oil (mobil 1)  will I need to buy?  How hard is it to
get
to the oil filter?

Any unusual stuff I should expect?  I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need
to
know how much ATF to buy?

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



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Re: [MBZ] Oil CHange

2006-02-21 Thread Donald Snook
Peter wrote:  Most parts stores that carry Wix filters will have the
oil filter (and 

Wix is very good).  Probably 8 quarts if the 603 engine is a guide, at 

least 6 anyway.

 

 

I think this was in response to Larry's question about an oil change in
his new 92 300D.  If that is correct, I would buy 8 quarts, but only put
in 7.5.  When I had my 90 124 I learned that a full 8 quarts was too
much.  If you follow Dr. Booth's rule that the oil should be HALFWAY
between the full and add mark. 8 quarts puts it past the full mark. At
least that was my experience. 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL



Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread BillR
My best wood stove was a furnace add-on a welder made for folks in Indiana.
It was an inner metal box about 14 x 18 surrounded by a 2 larger metal
box with a fan that attached to the central heat / AC plenum. It used the
existing duct work and heated the entire house.  With the feed door acting
as a baffle you could easily regulate the amount of air and speed of burn.
The double wall system was pretty efficient, and with a temperature
activated blower to force warm air it saved me a lot of $$$ in Winter.
Wouldn't have wanted to have it in a part of the house as a decorator item,
though.  Worked well, but was not especially pretty.
BillR 
Jacksonville FL  
1981 300SD  'EM'  271K miles  Delvac

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:50 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

you wrote: Find a good used insert or wood stove 

I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough but
the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing heat. 
The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove but the
freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with a small fan
oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was substantial.

The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes up
valuable floor space.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo) A Blood Test for your oil -
www.youroil.net For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil Weber Carb
Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm



 On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 07:49 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

  Without the Heatilator, using the wood
 isn't a gain.  Too much lost up the chimney.  With it,
 who knows?  We all figure it can't hurt.

 -- Jim


 Fireplaces are a waste of wood. not only are they inefficient in the
 task of making heat from wood but you have a gaping hole in your house
 sucking out the heat as it dies out. Close the damper too soon and you
 get a house full of smoke. Find a good used insert or wood stove for
 him. Earn kegs of beer for pick-up, modification installation.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am
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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 08:49 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:


I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough 
but
the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing 
heat.
The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove 
but the
freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with a small 
fan

oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was substantial.

The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes 
up

valuable floor space.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



	We initially had one wood stove and a fireplace. After being deeply 
involved in the physical aspect of cutting, splitting, stacking and 
burning firewood, my wife realized the what a waste the fireplace was.
	While I was down South working, she bought a mint Vermont Castings 
Resolute Vigilant stove for $250 and had a couple of my good friends 
install it on the hearth of our fireplace.
	 People like to see the flames for some reason. I am content knowing 
that heat is being made. The stove she bought has glass in the door and 
came with a cast iron piece to be used in lieu of glass.
	From experience, I learned that to replace the glass with the right 
stuff is expensive. Heat causes expansion which can cause the glass to 
break, sudden cooling and impacts from wood being dropped in can also 
break the glass. I removed the glass and cut it down the middle 
allowing some expansion to prevent damage to the glass.
	In the past few days this area was hit by sub-zero temps and 60-70mph 
winds blowing down trees and utility poles causing widespread power 
outages. We lost power for less than 2 hours but many thousands of 
homes and businesses have been without power since mid-day Friday. 
Frozen pipes are bursting and many folks are staying in mass shelters 
until power is restored and pipes repaired. People are dying as a 
result, at least 2 were killed when trees hit their vehicles while 
driving.
	We will be OK, our stoves provide not only heat, we cook in and on 
them even when there is no power outage. I live a stones throw from 
Lake George which also serves as a local source of domestic water. The 
lake is still very clean and safe for drinking/cooking. If things get 
bad, I can always go to the lake with 5gal buckets and ice spud in 
hand. There are also several springs from which folks can draw as much 
water as is needed. A small inconvenience in comparison to the plight 
of others.

Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Sunil Hari
The AT pan has a hex-head drain plug, but even after you drain it out
there's still about 1/2 - 1 pint of ATF in the pan.  Tends to be messy.

The one issue I had with ATF changes is that I didn't have any way to let
air into the system, so the ATF draining looked like someone pouring a
gallon of milk too quickly (i.e. blug-blug-blug instead of laminar flow).
This was true of draining the torque converter.  I suspect that if you
loosen a line somewhere, flow becomes smoother and drainage is more
complete.

On 2/21/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Werner wrote:my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view
 mirror 

 Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy.  ;-)

 Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
 possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
 obviously dino juice.  I don't like that stuff!

 I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
 draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
 model?
 I'll probably have to extract some, them dr

 I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it.  I
 have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
 TC when the time comes.   I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
 drain
 plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
 pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
 of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)

 Thanks again!

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
 - Original Message -
 From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:34 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions


  Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about
 7
  in
  before its over full.  That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
  lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so
  long
  to really let it drain.  And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
  pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can
 take
  literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase.  So the
 accepted
  rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add
 and
  full marks.
 
  Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take
 the
  trouble to drain the torque converter.  Add to that the complication
 that
  the full mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at
 operating
  temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.
 
  I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
  either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
  differential.
 
  And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I
  went
  out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the
 mirror
  is
  actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly
  to
  the glass.  I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.
 
  Werner
 
  - Original Message -
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
  Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
 
 
 I plan to change the oil  filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week -
 ordered
  parts from Rusty -
 
  How many quarts of oil (mobil 1)  will I need to buy?  How hard is it
 to
  get
  to the oil filter?
 
  Any unusual stuff I should expect?  I also ordered a AT Filter kit -
 need
  to
  know how much ATF to buy?
 
  TIA -
 
  Sincerely,
  Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 
 
  ___
  http://www.striplin.net
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 09:07 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:


I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you 
mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this 
model?

I'll probably have to extract some, them dr


	Still a matter of personal preference. There will still be oil in the 
cooler and lines, so don't sweat getting every last drop out, it is 
impossible to do so.


I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about 
it.  I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain 
the

TC when the time comes.


	Loosen a cooler line to avoid the glug-glug effect while the TC is 
draining.



 I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop 
the
pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the 
amount

of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)


	There should be a drain plug in the pan. If not I would take the 
opportunity to either weld one in or buy a pan with a drain built-in. 
Topsider will work fine for you.


Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread BillR
Johnny B. - you remind me of my years in the frozen wastelands of Indiana.
Sounds like you are far more prepared than most, certainly than I was. Got
down to -34 one weekend [couldn't believe my Chevy started on the first
crank].  One of our friends whose home was on a small hill lost power and
pipes froze in the basement.  She had 2 - 3 feet of ice in her basement when
she got home.  My [then difficult to afford] investment in the wood stove
suddenly seemed well worth it.
BillR
Jacksonville FL  
1981 300SD  'EM'   271K - Delvac

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 08:49 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough 
 but the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing 
 heat.
 The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove 
 but the freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with 
 a small fan oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was 
 substantial.

 The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes 
 up valuable floor space.

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)


We initially had one wood stove and a fireplace. After being deeply
involved in the physical aspect of cutting, splitting, stacking and burning
firewood, my wife realized the what a waste the fireplace was.
While I was down South working, she bought a mint Vermont Castings
Resolute Vigilant stove for $250 and had a couple of my good friends install
it on the hearth of our fireplace.
 People like to see the flames for some reason. I am content knowing
that heat is being made. The stove she bought has glass in the door and came
with a cast iron piece to be used in lieu of glass.
From experience, I learned that to replace the glass with the right
stuff is expensive. Heat causes expansion which can cause the glass to
break, sudden cooling and impacts from wood being dropped in can also break
the glass. I removed the glass and cut it down the middle allowing some
expansion to prevent damage to the glass.
In the past few days this area was hit by sub-zero temps and
60-70mph winds blowing down trees and utility poles causing widespread power
outages. We lost power for less than 2 hours but many thousands of homes and
businesses have been without power since mid-day Friday. 
Frozen pipes are bursting and many folks are staying in mass shelters until
power is restored and pipes repaired. People are dying as a result, at least
2 were killed when trees hit their vehicles while driving.
We will be OK, our stoves provide not only heat, we cook in and on
them even when there is no power outage. I live a stones throw from Lake
George which also serves as a local source of domestic water. The lake is
still very clean and safe for drinking/cooking. If things get bad, I can
always go to the lake with 5gal buckets and ice spud in hand. There are also
several springs from which folks can draw as much water as is needed. A
small inconvenience in comparison to the plight of others.
Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used
parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-21 Thread andrew strasfogel
Price is way too high for an '82 CD with obvious issues.



On 2/20/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Driving around here in Tucson, I spotted an '82 CD for sale.

 When I saw the topic I thought: Rust spots?  Gateway paint job?

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 10:50 AM, BillR wrote:

Johnny B. - you remind me of my years in the frozen wastelands of 
Indiana.
Sounds like you are far more prepared than most, certainly than I was. 
Got

down to -34 one weekend [couldn't believe my Chevy started on the first
crank].  One of our friends whose home was on a small hill lost power 
and
pipes froze in the basement.  She had 2 - 3 feet of ice in her 
basement when
she got home.  My [then difficult to afford] investment in the wood 
stove

suddenly seemed well worth it.
BillR



	 That happens all to frequently around here. There are many seasonal 
or 2nd homes in this area and many folks do not take precautions and 
return in the spring to a swimming pool in the basement.
	In recent years some mfrs are making hot water heaters with dense foam 
insulation. A great idea except when flooding occurs, they will float 
and break the water feed line making matters worse as the water will 
flow freely until someone stops it.
	The water heaters with fiberglass insulation generally will not float. 
Something to think about if you have a home in the frozen white North 
or a flood plain. I have learned an awful lot about things like this 
from working disasters with FEMA. Houses and coffins can float up out 
of the ground during floods too. Another lesson learned.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Bob Rentfro
Having grown up in Illinois, I remember those winters and those winter woes 
well. We were discussing weather the other night at the old nuke plant and a 
native Az-er was trying to convince everyone that trying to keep cool in our 
summers was harder than trying to stay warm in the back east winters. We 
pretty much told him he was nuts, citing instances like Johnny B talked 
about (it's fun giving crap to him...he was a Chief on a sub...he takes it 
so well).
There is no comparison. When you're hot here, get in the shade...jump in a 
pool. When you're freezing cold back there, without heat or the prospect of 
heat, you're screwed.


Bob Rentfro (don't miss the winters...much)
'77 300D 149K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm



Johnny B. - you remind me of my years in the frozen wastelands of Indiana.
Sounds like you are far more prepared than most, certainly than I was. Got
down to -34 one weekend [couldn't believe my Chevy started on the first
crank].  One of our friends whose home was on a small hill lost power and
pipes froze in the basement.  She had 2 - 3 feet of ice in her basement 
when

she got home.  My [then difficult to afford] investment in the wood stove
suddenly seemed well worth it.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  'EM'   271K - Delvac

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 08:49 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough
but the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing
heat.
The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove
but the freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with
a small fan oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was
substantial.

The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes
up valuable floor space.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



We initially had one wood stove and a fireplace. After being deeply
involved in the physical aspect of cutting, splitting, stacking and 
burning

firewood, my wife realized the what a waste the fireplace was.
While I was down South working, she bought a mint Vermont Castings
Resolute Vigilant stove for $250 and had a couple of my good friends 
install

it on the hearth of our fireplace.
People like to see the flames for some reason. I am content knowing
that heat is being made. The stove she bought has glass in the door and 
came

with a cast iron piece to be used in lieu of glass.
From experience, I learned that to replace the glass with the right
stuff is expensive. Heat causes expansion which can cause the glass to
break, sudden cooling and impacts from wood being dropped in can also 
break

the glass. I removed the glass and cut it down the middle allowing some
expansion to prevent damage to the glass.
In the past few days this area was hit by sub-zero temps and
60-70mph winds blowing down trees and utility poles causing widespread 
power
outages. We lost power for less than 2 hours but many thousands of homes 
and

businesses have been without power since mid-day Friday.
Frozen pipes are bursting and many folks are staying in mass shelters 
until
power is restored and pipes repaired. People are dying as a result, at 
least

2 were killed when trees hit their vehicles while driving.
We will be OK, our stoves provide not only heat, we cook in and on
them even when there is no power outage. I live a stones throw from Lake
George which also serves as a local source of domestic water. The lake is
still very clean and safe for drinking/cooking. If things get bad, I can
always go to the lake with 5gal buckets and ice spud in hand. There are 
also

several springs from which folks can draw as much water as is needed. A
small inconvenience in comparison to the plight of others.
Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For 
used

parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 11:08 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:



Price is way too high for an '82 CD with obvious issues.




	How much do you figure it should go for? How about a near mint one? 
Blue Book is not a good enough source for value of these cars.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Larry - yes, the AT has a drain plug, but that will not drain the torque 
converter.  You have to turn the engine over (in the correct direction) very 
slowly until the small Allen-head drain bolt appears at the bottom, then 
remove it to drain the fluid.  Then you just slightly loosen the external 
oil line on the left side of the transmission, up near the top so as to 
break the vacuum.


Of course, the major PITA is removing first the front sound panel, and then 
the rear main sound panel.  And if the small metal clips are stripped, I 
would recommend getting a few to keep on hand for spares.  The hex head 
screws have a big metal washer to firmly hold up the sound panel, and the 
metal clip just gets tapped into the opening in the frame.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



Werner wrote:my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view
mirror 

Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy.  ;-)

Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice.  I don't like that stuff!

I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this 
model?

I'll probably have to extract some, them dr

I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it.  I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes.   I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a 
drain

plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)

Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)





Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Larry - the dealers are almost all using topsiders these days as it saves 
fooling around with the sound panels and therefore costs them less labor. 
The tradeoff is that you don't get to see what else is going on under the 
engine - loose items, small leaks, etc.  And as we've mentioned before, you 
cannot get all the old oil out using any method - there's the oil cooler, 
big connecting lines, etc.
My preference is to get it on a lift or over a pit and take the time to go 
over things thoroughly.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



Werner wrote:my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view
mirror 

Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy.  ;-)

Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice.  I don't like that stuff!

I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this 
model?

I'll probably have to extract some, them dr

I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it.  I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes.   I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a 
drain

plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)

Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)





Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread R A Bennell

So where do you get the wood? Around here, firewood is relatively expensive.
The other alternative is to get it yourself but that requires a fair amount
of equipment to do right. Also a dry place to store it etc.

Also wonder about your insurance company. Around here, a woodstove is
becoming an option that most insurance companies are not happy about.
Proper installation is expensive and takes a fair amount of space.

We are fortunate enough to have fairly reasonable natural gas rates so far.
My 1800 square foot 2 storey costs, on average $150 per month to heat
(including heating water). That is on a budget plan that runs throughout the
year so we pay in the summer as well.


Randy B in Winnipeg

-Original Message-
Subject: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm



In a message dated 2/20/2006 6:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA
writes:

in other news..
i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
it has been  a mild winter here in phila
 i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  costs in
my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use for
enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
mike collins
phila pa 1985 500 sec
Go Villanova








Re: [MBZ] any thoughts on our new look?

2006-02-21 Thread Gary Hurst
yes, that would be clever  :)

On 2/20/06, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Very nice. (the horn button doesn't honk, though).

 On 2/20/06, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html#
  http://www.buymbparts.com/newdesign/index.html
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 --
 Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
 '82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

you wrote:Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Sorry to hear about nature's fury around you!  


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm




On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 08:49 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:


I've had both - and now use a Woodcheif Insert.  It works well enough 
but
the free standing woodstove seems to be *much* better at providing 
heat.
The Woodchief has a built in fan to blow the heat away frm the stove 
but the
freestanding stove provided heat on 4 sides and the top - with a small 
fan

oscillating on the floor behind it, the heat was substantial.

The only probem with the freestanding unit it safety - plus, it takes 
up

valuable floor space.

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



We initially had one wood stove and a fireplace. After being deeply 
involved in the physical aspect of cutting, splitting, stacking and 
burning firewood, my wife realized the what a waste the fireplace was.
While I was down South working, she bought a mint Vermont Castings 
Resolute Vigilant stove for $250 and had a couple of my good friends 
install it on the hearth of our fireplace.
People like to see the flames for some reason. I am content knowing 
that heat is being made. The stove she bought has glass in the door and 
came with a cast iron piece to be used in lieu of glass.
From experience, I learned that to replace the glass with the right 
stuff is expensive. Heat causes expansion which can cause the glass to 
break, sudden cooling and impacts from wood being dropped in can also 
break the glass. I removed the glass and cut it down the middle 
allowing some expansion to prevent damage to the glass.
In the past few days this area was hit by sub-zero temps and 60-70mph 
winds blowing down trees and utility poles causing widespread power 
outages. We lost power for less than 2 hours but many thousands of 
homes and businesses have been without power since mid-day Friday. 
Frozen pipes are bursting and many folks are staying in mass shelters 
until power is restored and pipes repaired. People are dying as a 
result, at least 2 were killed when trees hit their vehicles while 
driving.
We will be OK, our stoves provide not only heat, we cook in and on 
them even when there is no power outage. I live a stones throw from 
Lake George which also serves as a local source of domestic water. The 
lake is still very clean and safe for drinking/cooking. If things get 
bad, I can always go to the lake with 5gal buckets and ice spud in 
hand. There are also several springs from which folks can draw as much 
water as is needed. A small inconvenience in comparison to the plight 
of others.

Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
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Re: [MBZ] any thoughts on our new look?

2006-02-21 Thread LT Don
That should be a very simple Java script and .wav file.

On 2/21/06, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 yes, that would be clever  :)

 On 2/20/06, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Very nice. (the horn button doesn't honk, though).
 
 




--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] mail

2006-02-21 Thread LT Don
-- Forwarded message --
From: Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Feb 21, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: mail
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I cannot send mail from my gulseth.net account.  Will you forward this?
Thanks.
subject: Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale
message body:

My '82 CD had 153kmi, 2-3 1/4 spots of rust, a good interior, (parts of it
apart...p/o trying to add more speakers) and a suspect tranny (fixed by
changing to Mobile 1 ATF).  It lacked TLC, drives like a scared cat, and was
purchased for $1500.  Might be on the low end, but that gives you an idea.

Luther

~
~On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 11:08 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
~
~
~ Price is way too high for an '82 CD with obvious issues.
~
~
~
~   How much do you figure it should go for? How about a near mint one?
~Blue Book is not a good enough source for value of these cars.
~
~Johnny B.
~I Mac Therefore I am

--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) alive and needing work
'90 300E (parts or run?)


--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread l02turner

Whoa Werner,
What sound panels?  Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to change 
the ATF?  Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D!  Clatter 
clatter!  How are the sound panels held in place?
;-)   Sounds like I'll need to pick up some of the metal clips prior to 
starting this job?


I'm still starry eyed to learn I have a windshield washer reservoir with a 
*heating* coil in it!  That is *so* cool!  And I see Buick (or someone) 
advertising their heated WW fluid!!  And MB was doing it *at least* 15 years 
ago! ;-)


Have been out looking at the engine - the coolant level is about 1/2 way up 
the reservoir - but I don't see a marker on the reservoir indicating the 
proper level.  But I suspect it's right.  BTW, the coolant res. cap was 
loose - probably caused the cooler than normal running?  (a little below 
80C)


Can the coolant flushing be left to an independant shop?   Assuming I bring 
the MB coolant and make sure they use it - I'd do it but I always seem to 
spill a lot when opening the system to drain.  Of course, it looks like MB 
has really made things easy to work on with this W124 (in some areas)!


The belt looks to be in good condition - no visible cracks, abrasions, etc.

Found the fuse box (an improvement over the W123!) but it looks like the 
same old ceramic fuses.  I assume they still need to be replaced on a 12-15 
year cycle?  Meaning it's time now.  Perhaps since the vibrations have been 
reduced (so it seems) it's not necessary?


The hood has a foam pad near the latch mechanism - it has some damaged foam 
so I'll want to replace it - but that's the only obvious thing needing 
attention.


Am getting ready to vacuum the leaves and debris from the hinge area - will 
probably see more stuff generating more questions -- 

Thanks to all who are helping!  When I get my Owners Manual (5-10 days) and 
other tech books it'll help with many of my questions.  BTW, I ordered a 
extra key - only came with one - which seems to be typical of a used car for 
some reason.  MB gets $25 for a key - forgot to ask Rusty to get one for 
me --


Love this car!!   ;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



Larry - the dealers are almost all using topsiders these days as it saves
fooling around with the sound panels and therefore costs them less labor.
The tradeoff is that you don't get to see what else is going on under the
engine - loose items, small leaks, etc.  And as we've mentioned before, 
you

cannot get all the old oil out using any method - there's the oil cooler,
big connecting lines, etc.
My preference is to get it on a lift or over a pit and take the time to go
over things thoroughly.
Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



Werner wrote:my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view
mirror 

Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy.  ;-)

Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice.  I don't like that stuff!

I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr

I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. 
I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain 
the

TC when the time comes.   I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop 
the
pan.  I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the 
amount

of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)

Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey
What sound panels?  Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to 
change


201, 124 and 126 diesels (and probably all newer ones too) have
belly pans under both the engine and transmission areas.  They reduce
the sound transmitted outside the car considerably.  To the point
where it's a bit hard to tell they're diesels.

the ATF?  Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D!  
Clatter

clatter!  How are the sound panels held in place?


Big-headed sheet metal screws.  The pans tend to disappear, due to
road damage and/or the carelessness of Iffy-Lube monkeys.  The pans
are expensive to replace.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Jim Cathey
So where do you get the wood? Around here, firewood is relatively 
expensive.


Off our hillside.  We've got 20 acres of pine trees.  Neighbors with
less personal resources get a permit from the lumber company (it's
cheap) and harvest from the slash piles.

The other alternative is to get it yourself but that requires a fair 
amount

of equipment to do right. Also a dry place to store it etc.


You do need a woodshed, but otherwise nothing more than a pickup
truck, axe, and chainsaw.  And you can do without the truck if
you are on flat land, and have a beater MB that you don't mind
treating like a truck!  (Take out seats and remove trunk lid,
and fill 'er up!)

See http://www.woodheat.org for lots more information, including
plans for an ultra-cheap woodshed.

-- Jim




[MBZ] test

2006-02-21 Thread Luther Gulseth
Can I send mail from here?
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - FloLogic, was keeping warm
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I installed a Flologic water circuit breaker in the main water line coming
into the house.  Any water outlet running for more than 20 minutes
(adjustable) and the Flologic shuts off the main line.  If you go out of
town and push the away button, it shuts down in 30 seconds.  If you don't
push the away button, it will do it for you after 18 hours of no water being
used

It won't stop freezing but it will prevent a major flood situation.  It lets
you know if something is left running, such as a toilet.

One of my best purchases.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

  One of our friends whose home was on a small hill lost power
  and
  pipes froze in the basement.  She had 2 - 3 feet of ice in her
  basement when
  she got home.  My [then difficult to afford] investment in the wood
  stove
  suddenly seemed well worth it.
  BillR
 

 That happens all to frequently around here. There are many seasonal
 or 2nd homes in this area and many folks do not take precautions and
 return in the spring to a swimming pool in the basement.
 In recent years some mfrs are making hot water heaters with dense foam
 insulation. A great idea except when flooding occurs, they will float
 and break the water feed line making matters worse as the water will
 flow freely until someone stops it.






Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617

2006-02-21 Thread Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How was oil consumption prior to this event?

Ah, that's a question. On this car it's low if driven hard, when it's left
idling in the cold it goes through a LOT. However it's hard to quantify as
it's got two significant oil leaks, one out the pan gasket in front and the
other is where the breather tube exits out the left side of the pan (bad
seal that my wrench is procrastinating wanting to do). IIRC from my old
w126, this tube is a CA-emissions-only deal, runs from pan up to the bottom
of the air cleaner assembly.
 
 Try to find a rebuild-able set of newer ones if possible. I haven't
 seen all that many blow that seal out but it obviously happens. Could
 be that the 2 halves weren't torqued properly on assembly or maybe they
 vibrate loose.

Yeah, from the sounds of them at least two need to be cleaned/rebuilt pretty
bad actually.

THX

Mac




Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 01:40 PM, R A Bennell wrote:

So where do you get the wood? Around here, firewood is relatively 
expensive.
The other alternative is to get it yourself but that requires a fair 
amount

of equipment to do right. Also a dry place to store it etc.


	My wood comes from the woods. Where else? I have access to many wood 
lots, logged land and logging headers. We do not own a wood lot but 
nature occasionally provides us with a blow-down. Another good source 
of easy to get at wood is when the Power Co clears the growth that can 
damage power lines.





Also wonder about your insurance company. Around here, a woodstove is
becoming an option that most insurance companies are not happy about.
Proper installation is expensive and takes a fair amount of space.


	I go above and beyond building code requirements. I want to stay warm 
not die trying. We have no problem with insurance as a result of 
complying.





We are fortunate enough to have fairly reasonable natural gas rates so 
far.

My 1800 square foot 2 storey costs, on average $150 per month to heat
(including heating water). That is on a budget plan that runs 
throughout the

year so we pay in the summer as well.


	We fill our 1,000 gal tank every Summer when prices are more 
reasonable but only use between 400 and 600 gal/year. Our furnace 
supplies the hot water.






Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 11:40 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:



you wrote:Staying warm is a life or death situation around here.

Sorry to hear about nature's fury around you!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)



Being prepared and resourceful makes it no big deal for us.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Pics from my latest Beater-Benz journey

2006-02-21 Thread Steve MacSween
someone claiming to be [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Dell City/My Land/Carlsbad/Hike to Guadalupe Peak
 
 http://www.pbdev.com/westtex/

Nice pics. Try to take better shots of the most important thing, next time.

No, not YOU. The CD, for heaven's sake.

Mac




Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer

Larry - you have a lot of ground to cover in your questions!
First, the 124 2.5 Diesels have (in my case) 2 sound panels, the front one 
about 3x3 ft which gives access to the engine drains, radiator lower end, 
etc - and held on with 4 of those special screws.  This panel has to come 
off before you get to remove the rear panel, about 3x4 ft, under the 
transmission.  A real PITA if you try it while on your back, but a piece of 
cake on a lift.  And I keep a few of those screws and clips on hand, as if 
you overtighten and strip out the clips, the best fix is just to replace 
them.  Some second owners have found the sound panels missing as places like 
Jiffy Lube are suspected of just forgetting to put them back on!


Make sure you take a good look at the metal transmission cooler lines right 
under the radiator, as with the panels in place, they can get corrosion 
started there (another reason to look around).  Also look for chafe points 
on those lines.  The serpentine belt should look evenly smooth on the flat 
side, and have no cracks of the grooved side.  Changing the belt is simple; 
getting to it is another PITA job.


Coolant level is at the seam of the plastic expansion tank.  A loose cap 
would make me want to see why the engine was run without any cooling system 
pressure - leaks???  With no pressure, the system might even run hot or boil 
off some water.  Normal temp is around 90-95C, with 100C OK.  You might want 
to get a new radiator pressure cap from Rusty just to be safe.


Flushing the system is supposed to be done every 2 years (and I'm delinquent 
in that on my car).  In the old days, we just dumped the old stuff on the 
ground, but now the EPA and animal rights people have educated us to dispose 
of this poisonous stuff correctly.  I'll get around to that one of these 
days - but I suspect that if the engine isn't overheating, that a simple 
drain and refill with good M-B antifreeze (50-50) will suffice.  IMO, snake 
oil procedures are only needed if there are cooling system problems.  But 
while doing this coolant flush is a good time to change the thermostat if 
the car isn't running at the proper temperature - and you probably want to 
change the serpentine belt at the same time.  Getting working space in there 
usually involves removing the fan shroud and fan, which is held on by a 
small 8mm Allen bolt (and it will appear to have been tightened to 200 
ft-lbs!!).  M-B makes a special tool to do that job, which amounts to a very 
long arm ratchet handle for the 8 mm screw, and a simple notched bar to hold 
the pulley, both of which you can improvise.


Yes, by all means replace the fuses - and have a 30A strip fuse on hand in 
case you have to replace the blower fuse.


The foam strip across the front underside of the hood keeps the air going 
through the radiator.  I've had to replace mine once in 15 years.


And vacuum out all the leaves and debris on both sides - you should make 
sure that the drains are all open, and that there's no corrosion starting 
under the battery area.


There, have I covered the questions??

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions



Whoa Werner,
What sound panels?  Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to 
change

the ATF?  Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D!  Clatter
clatter!  How are the sound panels held in place?
;-)   Sounds like I'll need to pick up some of the metal clips prior to
starting this job?

I'm still starry eyed to learn I have a windshield washer reservoir with a
*heating* coil in it!  That is *so* cool!  And I see Buick (or someone)
advertising their heated WW fluid!!  And MB was doing it *at least* 15 
years

ago! ;-)

Have been out looking at the engine - the coolant level is about 1/2 way 
up

the reservoir - but I don't see a marker on the reservoir indicating the
proper level.  But I suspect it's right.  BTW, the coolant res. cap was
loose - probably caused the cooler than normal running?  (a little below
80C)

Can the coolant flushing be left to an independant shop?   Assuming I 
bring

the MB coolant and make sure they use it - I'd do it but I always seem to
spill a lot when opening the system to drain.  Of course, it looks like MB
has really made things easy to work on with this W124 (in some areas)!

The belt looks to be in good condition - no visible cracks, abrasions, 
etc.


Found the fuse box (an improvement over the W123!) but it looks like the
same old ceramic fuses.  I assume they still need to be replaced on a 
12-15
year cycle?  Meaning it's time now.  Perhaps since the vibrations have 
been

reduced (so it seems) it's not necessary?

The hood has a foam pad near the latch mechanism - it has some damaged 
foam

so I'll want to replace it - but that's the only obvious thing needing
attention.

Am getting ready to vacuum the leaves and 

Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - FloLogic, was keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Dave Wakin

Where did you get that Harry? Thanks

Dave W





I installed a Flologic water circuit breaker in the main water line coming
into the house.  Any water outlet running for more than 20 minutes
(adjustable) and the Flologic shuts off the main line.  If you go out of
town and push the away button, it shuts down in 30 seconds.  If you 
don't
push the away button, it will do it for you after 18 hours of no water 
being

used





Re: [MBZ] Off Topic - keeping warm

2006-02-21 Thread Richard Murdoch
Mike,
We used wood stoves from the mid 70' s to the mid 90's and rarely had to turn 
on the central steam heat.

I cut  a good bit of what we used (i.e. free or cheap).

Had to stop using wood because my wife was developing serious allergies.

The best stove we found for our purpose was a Kresno.  It could be burned open 
like a fire place or closed as an air tight stove.  

Really miss using it.

We have a 4 year gas boiler and gas hot water heater.  Looks like cost will 
peak to 300 to 350 during the coldest months for our 2000 sq. ft old house.)

Richard Murdoch
Winston-Salem NC
82 240D
82 300TDt
(MLS Villanova '64)

 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2006/02/20 Mon PM 06:20:25 EST
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Off Topic -  keeping warm
 
  
 In a message dated 2/20/2006 6:18:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA  
 writes:
 
 in other news..
 i was wondering how every one has been dong regarding house heat
 it has been  a mild winter here in phila  
  i have a wood stove insert that has saved me a fortune in heating  costs in 
 my living room fireplace and a fireplace in the basement that i  use for 
 enjoyment ( not a good efficient  source of heat  really)
 so ... do we have any other wood burners out there ?
 mike collins 
 phila pa 1985 500 sec
 Go Villanova
 
 
 
  
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 




Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617

2006-02-21 Thread Werner Fehlauer
The oil drain pipe from the turbo down to the pan isn't only for CA cars. 
On my '83 126, all the O-ring seals had to be replaced to stop some 
significant oil leaks - a messy job, but worth the effort.
Also make sure the air cleaner drain is connected properly - the flex mounts 
break, and eventually someone doesn't connect the drain properly.


Werner




Re: [MBZ] mail

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 12:01 PM, LT Don wrote:


I cannot send mail from my gulseth.net account.  Will you forward this?
Thanks.
subject: Re: [MBZ] Spotted 300CD for sale
message body:

My '82 CD had 153kmi, 2-3 1/4 spots of rust, a good interior, (parts 
of it

apart...p/o trying to add more speakers) and a suspect tranny (fixed by
changing to Mobile 1 ATF).  It lacked TLC, drives like a scared cat, 
and was
purchased for $1500.  Might be on the low end, but that gives you an 
idea.


Luther



	I got one for a dollar and paid between that and $2,000 for others. 
Our 1983 300CD came with the original window sticker. MSRP $36,158


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617

2006-02-21 Thread Steve MacSween
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The oil drain pipe from the turbo down to the pan isn't only for CA cars.

This isn't a drain, it's a tin crankcase vent breather tube from the upper
part of the pan, that wraps up around the turbo and up into the bottom of
the air cleaner assembly.

Mac




[MBZ] Clean Hands and Trim Questions

2006-02-21 Thread Bob Rentfro
It's amazing how clean one's hands are when one is done changing the oil in a 
vergasser. 

Anywho

I have a couple of pieces of trim in the door (the trim in the middle of the 
door...the anti-door-bash-in-the-parking-lot-by-a-moron-trim) that is becoming 
loose and it won't pop back in. How is the best way to address this? Just one 
fastener is loose/unfastened now.

Thanks, like minded car pals.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 149K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
'87 Acura Legend 169K (fresh oil change)
Litchfield Park, AZ
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Feb 21 18:32:51 2006
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As of 02/21/06 BuyMBparts, Inc., will beat ANY price by ANY competitor
on the web. It doesn't matter who it is, where they are, we will NOT be
undersold. All you have to do is call us at 1-800-741-5252 and let us
know who is selling what item and what their price is, we'll do the
rest. We ship from multiple (40) warehouses located all over the country
and carry the same OE and OEM parts that all the others do. All orders
ship same day with free freight over $75.00. We have been selling
Mercedes parts since 1976 and know these cars inside and out. Don't get
fooled by all these new parts experts on the web, everyone at
BuyMBparts is a genuine Mercedes enthusiast.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
1-800-741-5252
http://www.BuyMBparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com/

Serving the Mercedes Benz enthusiast for over 30 years.



Re: [MBZ] test

2006-02-21 Thread Kevin
On Tue, Feb 21, 2006 at 09:26:53AM -0800, Luther Gulseth wrote:
 Can I send mail from here?

No.



Re: [MBZ] test

2006-02-21 Thread LT Don
No, I don't see a thing.

On 2/21/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Can I send mail from here?
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] test

2006-02-21 Thread Luther Gulseth
Thanks for your kind thoughts.  I can send mail now.

~No, I don't see a thing.
~
~On 2/21/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
~
~ Can I send mail from here?
~
~
~
~--
~1977 240D
~1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
~1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
~
~http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) alive and needing work 
'90 300E (parts or run?)



Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 12:36 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:

Ah, that's a question. On this car it's low if driven hard, when it's 
left
idling in the cold it goes through a LOT. However it's hard to 
quantify as
it's got two significant oil leaks, one out the pan gasket in front 
and the
other is where the breather tube exits out the left side of the pan 
(bad

seal that my wrench is procrastinating wanting to do). IIRC from my old
w126, this tube is a CA-emissions-only deal, runs from pan up to the 
bottom

of the air cleaner assembly.


	All that I have seen have that tube. It drains away oil from the from 
the crankcase breather.






Try to find a rebuild-able set of newer ones if possible. I haven't
seen all that many blow that seal out but it obviously happens. Could
be that the 2 halves weren't torqued properly on assembly or maybe 
they

vibrate loose.


Yeah, from the sounds of them at least two need to be cleaned/rebuilt 
pretty

bad actually.

THX

Mac


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


Re: [MBZ] Pumping oil out of injectors OM617

2006-02-21 Thread John Berryman


On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 12:49 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:

This isn't a drain, it's a tin crankcase vent breather tube from the 
upper
part of the pan, that wraps up around the turbo and up into the bottom 
of

the air cleaner assembly.

Mac



	Its a drain, there's that tornado-like device in the filter housing 
that separates liquid from vapor, kind of.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


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