Re: [MBZ] cheap SDL

2007-01-02 Thread Curt Raymond

Cheez whiz it sure is, I drive through Littleton most every day.
I'd offer to go look at it but I'm in NYC tomorrow afternoon through Friday.
If somebody wanted to see it and could setup and appointment for Friday I could 
probably swing it.

Now if it was a 116...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 17:02:17 -0500
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cheap SDL
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
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 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Curt-
This in your part of the country.
Another project.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852 1979 240D
1990 300D 2.5t

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Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2007 19:32:17 -0500
From: Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Looks like a decent car, although the description is slightly in error - 
these cars typically came with MBTex, not leather and the window sticker 
confirms that it is MBTex.  Also, the seller states that the cruise is inop, 
which should be readily fixable yet with all the work that has been done, 
this isn't taken care of?  Curious.
Last item is that it is very doubtful that the car gets 35 mpg, especially 
with a college age driver.  More typical is 30-32, so with these small 
inconsistencies, I would be careful with this seller.  Oh, also unusual is 
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine) 
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal 
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.
Wonder what his reserve really is?

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 4:31 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-90-Mercedes-300D-Turbo-Diesel-like-new-LOW-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ200063997039QQihZ010QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net




Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna

2007-01-02 Thread BillR
Thanks guys - That has been bugging me for awhile.  I'll pick up a mast from
Rusty and follow the directions.
Your wisdom is much appreciated.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  285 k miles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 2:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna


You just need a new mast, about $30 or so.

Unscrew the bezel at the base of the antenna with the mast down as far
as it will go, then switch radio on or set antenna switch to full up
and pull the tail out of the antenna housing as it comes free.  Note
which way the teeth go!

Wipe a bit of silicone grease on the new tail, insert it in the same
orientation as the old one and push down until it stops.  Have someone
switch the antenna switch to the down position and feed the new
tail and antenna mast into the motor box, then re-install the bezel.

Check the grommet while you are at this -- a good time to replace it if
it's hard.  Take the antenna motor out (one nut, I think), pull the old
grommet out from inside, push the new one through the hole, put the
motor box back in, then pull the new mast in.

May take a couple tries to get it to go all the way down if you don't
get the teeth started soon enough, but it's easier next time -- just
run the antenna motor all the way up, it will grab correctly when you
switch it down again.

Lightly grease the mast with silicone grease or spray silicone lube
(the grease lasts longer, I use Loctite 51360 since it has many other
uses as well (like getting bushings in).

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread OK Don

FWIW - my '90 doesn't have headlight washers either. I think it's a
normal channel car.


Oh, also unusual is
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine)
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Don - You're probably correct, although I often get comments like where are 
the washer/wipers? - and every one of the '90-'93 124s around here do have 
the wipers.  I just assumed that this may have been a special order by 
MBUSA.  The car had never been titled, so it appears as if I'm the original 
purchaser, although the car had about 11k miles on it when I got it (at a 
good discount!).
But getting back to the Florida blue 2.5 - I have to wonder if the front has 
been in a fender bender, what with the broken headlight knob, the need for 
replacement of the grill, replacement of the A/C condenser, etc.  Lots of 
little inconsistencies, and that's just from the sketchy info in the Ebay 
ad.

Werner
'90 300D, '83 300SD, '87 F150 4x4

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo



FWIW - my '90 doesn't have headlight washers either. I think it's a
normal channel car.


Oh, also unusual is
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine)
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager





Re: [MBZ] Amazing MBs

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT

Hi Zeb,
The 240D in the W123 chassis (like mine) was available in the US from 77 
until 1983 --it was not available in '84 when it was replaced by the 190 
series (W201 chassis).


As far as finding a rust free example - it;s pretty much like any other 30+ 
year old car - Location will probably have the most to do with it.  Finding 
one from CA, AZ, NM, and other SW states will provide the best shot at none 
to low rust.


Keep an eye on this list because there's some 240Ds that appear 
ocassionally - as well as Craigslist and eBay - but you may find a nugget 
near to home in the newspaper or Trading Post/Auto Trader.


As always exercize caution when buying from someone who don;t know - you may 
find it hard to believe but there's actually people out there who will try 
to *cheat* you out of money!!  ;-)  And beware Nigerians always.


I can send a photo of my 78 240D if you want to see what a W123 chassis 
looks like - just let me know -



Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amazing MBs



How hard is it to find a really nice 240D Larry?  Are there still some
around that have very little if any rust?  My old 911 is perfect but 
what

are the odds of finding such a diesel?  Was the 240 made up to '85, or did
the 300TD replace it for North America?  What should I expect to pay for a
really nice one?  Anyone have any leads?  thanks.

Zeb.

On 01/01/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


WOW!  Thanks for all the response to my passing remark about putting a
different engine in my 240D!   BTW, I saw that video a couple of weeks 
ago

with the VW Bus outrunning the Porsche 993 - if you've ever driven a VW
Bus
you'll know what a change in personality that is!  From slower than a 
240D

auto with AC on in the heat of summer, to AMG  tricked out speeds.
Incredible.

DOn't know what (if anything) I'll do to the 240D.  Right now, the engine
is
perfect and the body is 90% perfect - but I think a W123 300D Turbo is
probably the best option.

Does the 300D T use a different AT than my 240D?  I guess it might depend
on
the donor 300?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Amazing MBs


 Jim,

 If you donate the 617 turbo, I'll do the conversion and document the
how
 to.  Otherwise, i'll have to use the NA one I have.

 At 07:00 PM 12/31/2006, you wrote:
  BTW, are there any kits out there for installing a V6 or V8 in a
W123?

Much less trouble, and of far more interest to most of us, is putting
a 300D turbo engine in instead.  Lots of rust/wrecks out there still.

-- Jim


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 Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] 115 Dash Clocks

2007-01-02 Thread Jim Cathey

Pulls from whatever the PnP had that carried the sort of clock.  There
have been some 116, a few slc, a bunch of 114/115.  Not remembering
which offered what clock, since I tried and failed, so moved on.


I can't imagine that a 116 or 107 uses the right sort of clock at all.
I think only the 76 115 300D's are the only ones I've seen the right
quartz clocks in.  But I've only seen three, and one was an obvious
retrofit.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna

2007-01-02 Thread Hendrik Riessen
OK, you can do the slack thing or you can choose to do this properly. It is 
recommended to remove the whole antenna assembly and pull it apart. Water 
and dirt gets into the workings. Also there is a little wheel in there that 
turns against the plastic winding thingy. What happens is that it stops 
turning but the mast will still go up and down, with the end result being 
that it develops a flat spot and eventually it does not apply enough 
pressure and the antenna will start to stick.
If you service it now you may get away with a good clean and lube job but 
once it has this flat spot you will have to buy a repair kit like this 
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/60-Hirschmann-Parts/Spare+Parts


Hendrik
with only one working antenna out of three Hirschies

- Original Message - 
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna


Thanks guys - That has been bugging me for awhile.  I'll pick up a mast 
from

Rusty and follow the directions.
Your wisdom is much appreciated.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  285 k miles





Re: [MBZ] Bob Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread LT Don

That is one crazy Mo'!

On 1/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acevFbpMXtM
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Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Sunil Hari

I'm pretty sure that the gassers got the headlight wipers standard, but the
diesels had them as an option that no one paid for.

My 92 300D doesn't have them either, and it was bought in Cincinnati.

Question:  if you have them, how do you turn them on?  I test drove one and
looked like an idiot when I couldn't find the switch.

On 1/1/07, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Don - You're probably correct, although I often get comments like where
are
the washer/wipers? - and every one of the '90-'93 124s around here do
have
the wipers.  I just assumed that this may have been a special order by
MBUSA.  The car had never been titled, so it appears as if I'm the
original
purchaser, although the car had about 11k miles on it when I got it (at a
good discount!).
But getting back to the Florida blue 2.5 - I have to wonder if the front
has
been in a fender bender, what with the broken headlight knob, the need for
replacement of the grill, replacement of the A/C condenser, etc.  Lots of
little inconsistencies, and that's just from the sketchy info in the Ebay
ad.
Werner
'90 300D, '83 300SD, '87 F150 4x4

- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo


 FWIW - my '90 doesn't have headlight washers either. I think it's a
 normal channel car.

 Oh, also unusual is
 the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90
(mine)
 that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal
 pipeline of imports by MBUSA.

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
 sit there.
 Will Rogers
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


[MBZ] OT: VW Passat

2007-01-02 Thread Limon276
Does anyone know where the OBD 2 fuse is on a 2002 Passat?  Thanks


Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT
My 91 doesn;t have the headlight washers either -  I read somewhere (maybe 
on the CarFax?) - they were optional on diesels - standard on the more 
expensive models -


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo



FWIW - my '90 doesn't have headlight washers either. I think it's a
normal channel car.


Oh, also unusual is
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine)
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Brake Double Flare Tools

2007-01-02 Thread Loren Faeth
Jim, I am shocked!   I guess I found one patchup that I may have done more 
than you!


Snappy has double flare tools in both Metric and SAE.  There ARE minor 
differences in the tubing sizes.  I have replaced rusted sections of MB 
brake line with US stuff, using the metric nuts salvaged off the old lines 
or another suitable donor.  What I do is cut off one end , take off the SAE 
nuts and throw em in a box for future reference, then cut the nuts off the 
old line and put them on the new (SAE) line headed the proper directions.


Then add the new double flare.  (Right!)   The best thing to do is make 
a few double flares on the old tube or the excess of the new tube before 
doing one on tubing cut to length.  Especially if you are using the SAE 
double flare adapter.  What usually happens is the first flare on the scrap 
turns out beautifully, then you make 2-3 lousy ones on the real tube and 
break the double flare adapter.


Here is the deal about the double flare adapters:  A double flare kit is a 
plain ol flare tool in a box with 4-5 double flare adapters.  The mb uses 
the SMALLEST adapter.  It has about a 1/16 pin to slide into the tube 
while making the double flare.  This pin is VERY easy to break off, and if 
you do break the pin off, you won't be making a double flare unless you 
have another, or wait for Snappy to order one and get it to you.  Snappy 
generally carries the SAE sizes.  To do it right, you need the right size 
METRIC double flare adapter.  It is MUCH easier to make a good double flare 
with the metric adapter.  Maybe Snappy in Boston or LA carries the metric 
adapters, but I have never seen a Snappy that has one on the 
truck.  Whenever I order these, I always order 2-3.  I seem to break at 
least one for each successful double flare I do.  The morale: If you have a 
flare tool, just get the metric adapters from Snappy.


I have never found any other (local) source that even has a clue what you 
need.  Not NAPA, not other tool trucks, nobody.  I am guessing there are 
sources on the internet now.  I can't remember the metric size you 
need.  And it depends on the age of the car also, as older cars have bigger 
tubing.  Best thing to do is to order in a chunk of tubing from Rusty, 
unless you are working on a Pre-123 model where prices get outta sight.  As 
long as you are at it, you may as well just order the piece of tubing you 
want to repair, and put it on the car.


Larry, HTH

BTW, I have the Snap-on kit.  There is NOTHING special about it for 3-5 
times the price, other than the tin box that holds the flare tool and the 
adapters.  One time in '73 or so, I used the next bigger size adapter when 
I was converting my U-110 Bronco to Dual circuit brakes. Most of the time 
the box just sits on a shelf.Everything (US) since 68 has had dual 
circuit brakes, so I don't envision ever doing a dual circuit conversion 
again.  I think MB switched to dual circuit in 63.


Loren

At 02:50 PM 1/1/2007, you wrote:

 I'm considering getting the tool kit to do double flares and need to
 know if
 there's a Metric Kit and a SAE Kit?  I'm assuming there's both but
 haven't
 seen more than the SAE - although I haven't looked hard.

So far as I know, there's only the SAE.  Something about Bendix
(or somebody) having invented the brakes in the first place and
setting the standard.  I just bought a standard double-flare kit
when I fixed the brake on the 114.   The nuts are different for
metric, but not the line.  Or perhaps I misremember.

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth 





[MBZ] 1990 300SE Stalls when hot

2007-01-02 Thread rmcmail
I just put a new EGR valve and a new Idle Control Valve in my 1990 300SE - but 
I still have the same problem they were meant to correct. It starts fine when 
cold - runs fine at low to high speeds. But after the engine warms up and I 
bring it to a stop - say at an intersection - the engine shuts off (won't idle) 
and is difficult to start up again. I usually have to crank it for 30-45 
seconds before it starts reluctantly - but then runs fine again at low to 
higher speeds - until I bring it to a stop again. Then ... same problem.
Thanks,
les



Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL suspension pump

2007-01-02 Thread Loren Faeth
The tandem pump has a kit available from Rusty for about $75-80.  It is a 
BEAR to replace the shaft seal.  It is supposed to take some combination of 
special tools.  Potomac German Will sell you a good pump for $125 at last 
report (March 06).  You are money ahead to replace the pump.  One lister 
sent his pump and the kit to Star Motors in NY to replace the shaft seals 
with the proper tool, but I think that was another $75 or so plus freight 
both ways.  The result was possibly better than the used pump, but maybe 
not...


Loren
88TE, Tandem pump
87TD, Tandem pump

At 04:30 PM 1/1/2007, you wrote:

I was looking under the 560SEL and notice what appears to be suspension oil
leaking from near front of engine. It appears to be coming from the
suspension pump, I was wondering if this was a common failure and if they
make a repair kit?



Thanks

Trampas

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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] 1990 300SE Stalls when hot

2007-01-02 Thread James Zavesky
any chance you connected a scanner to it to pull the codes? Our 1995 E320
wagon had a similar problem and the code it was throwing was for the EGR
valve. However there was a recall on the EGR tube that was too small from
the factory, would plug up, throw error codes and in the final stages shut
the car off. Major PITA to do, had the idiot monkeys at the dealership do
it. They also said it needed the ICV but we opted not to do it and the
larger EGR tube solved the problem.

James Zavesky


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 9:16 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1990 300SE Stalls when hot


 I just put a new EGR valve and a new Idle Control Valve in my 1990 300SE -
but I still have the same problem they were meant to correct. It starts fine
when cold - runs fine at low to high speeds. But after the engine warms up
and I bring it to a stop - say at an intersection - the engine shuts off
(won't idle) and is difficult to start up again. I usually have to crank it
for 30-45 seconds before it starts reluctantly - but then runs fine again at
low to higher speeds - until I bring it to a stop again. Then ... same
problem.
 Thanks,
 les




Re: [MBZ] Bob Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread Loren Faeth
No he is NOT crazy!  He knows exactly what he is doing. Bob Hoover is the 
worlds most legendary test pilot.  Many have heard of Yeager, but his 
career is relatively short compared to Bob.  Bob may not be as well known 
outside aviation circles, but he is Da MAN.


At 07:43 PM 1/1/2007, you wrote:

That is one crazy Mo'!

On 1/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acevFbpMXtM
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--
I'm a man but I can change if I have to ... I guess.
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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Larry, 
I have wondered about that-as I posted a bit ago. My 90 doesn't have the
headlight washers but John Peterson's 91-identical car-has the headlight
washers. I wondered if it was model year change-seems not.  And yes MB tex.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 9:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

My 91 doesn;t have the headlight washers either -  I read somewhere (maybe 
on the CarFax?) - they were optional on diesels - standard on the more 
expensive models -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo


 FWIW - my '90 doesn't have headlight washers either. I think it's a
 normal channel car.

 Oh, also unusual is
 the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine)
 that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal
 pipeline of imports by MBUSA.

 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
 sit there.
 Will Rogers
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Werner,
You're correct on the mpg -I get about 31-32 on my 90 300D 2.5t.  Mine does
not have the headlight washers-but most I see around seem to.  
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI.  More typical is 30-32, so with these small 
inconsistencies, I would be careful with this seller.  Oh, also unusual is 
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine) 
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal 
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.
Wonder what his reserve really is?

Werner


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Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna

2007-01-02 Thread Peter Frederick
I would only disassemble the box if a new mast didn't fix the problem 
-- most likely, his is bent.


Of the 3 1980s cars we have, only one has had a problem with the 
antenna motor, and that was a broken gear, fixed by getting a junkyard 
motor.  They don't leak, so far as I can tell, mine was dry.


All the cars have well over 200,000 miles now.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] 1990 300SE Stalls when hot

2007-01-02 Thread Peter Frederick

Check for vac leaks, too!

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Bob Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread OK Don

It's not crazy - it's precise control, and knowing EXACTLY what he's
doing!  Did you catch the comment about his 'late' friends who thought
it was cool to fly lower than anyone else?

On 1/1/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

No he is NOT crazy!  He knows exactly what he is doing. Bob Hoover is the
worlds most legendary test pilot.  Many have heard of Yeager, but his
career is relatively short compared to Bob.  Bob may not be as well known
outside aviation circles, but he is Da MAN.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread OK Don

On my '87 SDL, they turn on when the headlights are on, and you
activate the windshield washer. - They only turn on when they might be
needed - no special switch - totally transparent operation - good MB
engineering!


Question:  if you have them, how do you turn them on?  I test drove one and
looked like an idiot when I couldn't find the switch.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 115 Dash Clocks

2007-01-02 Thread Redghost
Not sure where I sourced the clocks.  Came PnP, but model escapes me.  
I gave it much more thought and finally remembered that the 12v tab was 
what did not fit in the proper place.  Could be that I was not spinning 
the dial fast enough to get it to screw in all the way.  I was in the 
middle of changing blinker fluid as I was installing the clock.



On Jan 1, 2007, at 5:32 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Pulls from whatever the PnP had that carried the sort of clock.  There
have been some 116, a few slc, a bunch of 114/115.  Not remembering
which offered what clock, since I tried and failed, so moved on.


I can't imagine that a 116 or 107 uses the right sort of clock at all.
I think only the 76 115 300D's are the only ones I've seen the right
quartz clocks in.  But I've only seen three, and one was an obvious
retrofit.

-- Jim


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] OT: VW Passat

2007-01-02 Thread mykd1
Its with the other fuzes, if yours is the same as mine it will be number 10. If 
you are unsure of the location of the fuze box its on the drivers side of the 
dashboard behind the plastic panel. Open the car door, look on the side of the 
dash and remove the cover. There should be a card inside the fuze cover in a 
slot that shows all the fuze locations. If you have the original owners manual 
it also shows all the fuze locations
 
Harry
69 280 SEL 135,000 Miles
72 350SL   118,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: VW Passat


Does anyone know where the OBD 2 fuse is on a 2002 Passat?  Thanks
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Re: [MBZ] Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread RELNGSON
That is one crazy Mo'!

Why would you say that? Hoover's history in aviation is enviable and the 
skill and judgement it takes to perform those maneuvers in a non-aerobatic twin 
is 
considerable. And the story of the F-86 demo in Korea is very impressive.

I have seen the Shrike demonstration several times in the past and I was 
thrilled to watch it.

RLE



Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Tony Wirtel


My 91 doesn;t have the headlight washers either -  I read somewhere (maybe
on the CarFax?) - they were optional on diesels - standard on the more
expensive models -


My understanding- headlight wipers were standard on the 300e, didn't
come on the 2.6 liter models like mine.  That's fine, makes life
easier when pitching the crappy headlights and replacing with euros!

Then there were the 94/95 e320s; I *think* they were made optional in
'95 when a bunch of stuff was removed as standard equipment.

Tony Wirtel



Re: [MBZ] 1959 220S

2007-01-02 Thread Tom Hargrave
Tarek,

Please keep our discussions on the Mercedes Discussion List unless we get
serious about a trade. I'd rather only answer questions about my 220S once.

As far as a trade goes - all depends on what you are interested in trading.
I would not mind a 123 body 240D with a 4 speed  working AC. A late 80s /
early 90s 300E, 300D or 400E would also be nice. Either would have to be a
nice Mercedes for me to trade.

I'm not interested in a 123 body 300D, a 300SD or 300SDL as I've already
owned one or more of each of these cars.

I might be interested in something else, depending on what it is.


As far as the 220S is concerned, I've owned it for about 6 years  I've done
the following:

New shocks all the way around
New outer tie rod ends
New driver side upper king pin pivot
Rebuilt both carbs
Low mileage rear end - out of a 1958 220S (original spline shaft came apart)
New fuel pump diaphragm
New brake master cylinder
New motor mounts (all 4)

The car has the hydrak transmission  it runs and shifts great. I have spare
parts for the clutch mechanism. I also have spare brake shoes  quite a few
other parts that I've accumulated over the years. All spare parts go with
the car.

As far as known issues are concerned:
The paint looks good at a distance but it really needs a re-paint.
It needs a muffler
The right, front brake grabs if it has not been driven in a while. I've
pulled the wheel  don't see anything obvious.
The previous owner removed the heating system (common with these cars)

There is no major corrosion but I did take care of some surface rust on the
roof  some spots on the driver side front fender.

The front seats are serviceable but need redone. The headliner is down in
the back. The head liner is not original. The back seat needs recovered. All
seats have cheap seat covers. I can see the original material through a tear
in the driver seat cover. I've not removed the seat covers to see what the
seats look like but the covering is a tweed cloth.

All of the wood is in place around the doors. I refinished the 2 right door
wood trim but have not done the 2 driver side door wood trim.

The door panels are not original but nicely redone.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: Tarek Elshenawy [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:54 PM
To: 'Tom Hargrave'
Subject: RE: 1959 220S

Tom,

I would be interested in hearing more about the car, especially if you are
interested in a trade...

Tarek

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 7:37 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: [MBZ] 1959 220S

All,

 

I'm interested in selling my 1959 220S  would much rather sell to a list
member than someone else. It's in North Alabama.

 

Please email me questions through the group if interested so that I can
answer questions through the group in case others have the same questions.

 

And no, Kaleb, I will not take $500.00 for the car.

 

Thanks,

Tom Hargrave

www.kegkits.com

256-656-1924

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Amazing MBs

2007-01-02 Thread John W. Reames III
On Sun, 31 Dec 2006, OK Don wrote:

 Sorry to sound like a broken record - but the engine of choice would
 be the 603.96x !

I'd think a 606.96x with mechanical control would be zippy :) 

And thats without the finnish treatment :)
-j.





Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread John W. Reames III
My old 84 300SD (~200K at crunching) was regularly started at 24 without 
plugging in and at 14 once or twice. 

The 1985 300D use to have issues, but I found that I had a subtly failed 
GP relay (it lit the light but did not really work). Apparently water had 
wicked up under the cover, then past a cracked/broken o-ring into the box 
itself-It had close to a cup of water in it when I opened it!  I have had 
no problems with cold-weather starting since then.  Oh yeah, I use the 
older type (old stock here) red-top M1 15w50, and have for several years. 
I also adjust the valves every fall.

-j.


On Sat, 30 Dec 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've been using Mobil 1 0w40 for the last five winters.  I  change to M1 
 15w40 for the summers.  I live in Northern IL.  My 83  300D has 192, 000 mi. 
 on 
 it, and I've put about half of these miles on as the  second owner.  When I 
 got 
 the MB even after valve adjustments, gp changes,  etc., I had trouble 
 starting 
 it in sub 25 degree weather w/o it being plugged  in.
  
 After changing to M1 0w40 and keeping up with the maintenance, since I  
 changed to synthetic, winter starting has improved greatly over the dino  
 stuff.  
 BTW, I may burn 3/4 of a quart of M1 every 2, 500  mi.  
 And...the car has quieted down  greatly.
  
 Just my experience.
  
 MikeN
  
  
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[MBZ] No glow.

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Happy New Year all.

Did my brake replacement over the weekend.  4 new calipers and all new
hoses, and new rotors on the front.  Braking is MUCH improved -- so
smooth, no grabbing, vibrating, etc.  Pedal which had been very firm
now feels normal.

Another problem has emerged, however, and that is that the pre-glow
system has quit working.  When the problem started, the glow light
would illuminate intermittently (i.e. it would illuminate on some
starts, but not on others).  Now the light does not illuminate at all,
and cold starting has become difficult.  I've not been stranded yet,
thanks to the mild winter we've been having, but morning starts are
very difficult and I fear that I am putting a lot of wear on the
starter.

For now I'm using the block heater but need to get the glow system
working again.

I measured resistance on all the glow plugs and they are all reading
0.3 ohms on my little Radio Shack digital multimeter.  The fusible
link is intact (but is of unknown age).

What steps should I take to track this down?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230



[MBZ] intermittent heat

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Separate problem, separate thread...

I'm also having intermittent heat in the 300D.  Usually the heat will
come on normally once the engine warms after a cold start.  What
usually happens next is after the cabin has warmed to the set
temperature, the air from the vents will become very cool, though not
so cold as direct unheated exterior air.  Other times I don't ever get
any warm air at all, just cold and sometimes lukewarm air.  Engine
temperature is normal.

Recently flushed the cooling system, after noticing low levels and
tracing it to a leaking thermostat housing (replaced housing and
thermostat), but this did not resolve the problem.

Any likely suspects here?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230






Re: [MBZ] intermittent heat

2007-01-02 Thread Peter Frederick
Bad monovalve, the boot is swollen and it won't allow water to flow 
correclty.


Easy fix.

Peter




[MBZ] W201 Manuals

2007-01-02 Thread John Robbins
Way back in the day there was a source for chassis manuals...   I've 
been off the list for a while and was wondering if there is still a 
source out there?


Thanks!!!
John



Re: [MBZ] 1959 220S

2007-01-02 Thread John Robbins

Tom Hargrave wrote:

As far as the 220S is concerned, I've owned it for about 6 years  I've done
the following:
  
I've seen the car when Tom's helped me out on my MBs...   and I'd like 
to vouch for the described condition of the car.  I think its a pretty 
neat car, and was amazed at how smooth it idled (first old gas MB I'd 
ever seen). 

All of the wood is in place around the doors. I refinished the 2 right door
wood trim but have not done the 2 driver side door wood trim.
The wood is *very* nicely redone!  One of the things that stuck out in 
my memory ;)


-John







Re: [MBZ] Bob Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Loren said: ..Many have heard of Yeager  Guess who was flying 
the chase plane for Yeager when he broke the sound barrier. I live in 
Torrance CA and I understand Mr Hoover flies out of our airport here. 
I've spoken to several folks at the field and everyone has nothing but 
high praise for him as a man and a flyer. 

 Matt Claus




Re: [MBZ] No glow.

2007-01-02 Thread Jim Cathey

I measured resistance on all the glow plugs and they are all reading
0.3 ohms on my little Radio Shack digital multimeter.


You did remove the plug from the GP relay before checking
the five GP resistances?  If you don't they're all in parallel
and a bad one won't show up.  Such low resistance is difficult
for most meters to measure accurately, and 0.3 ohms is half
what each GP should be.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Unimog down

2007-01-02 Thread Jim Cathey

A friend called, and said that he'd scored a used 6kW UPS from work,
and that he'd trade me the 3kW he'd already gotten from there in
exchange for my help with the crane to bring home the new units.
(Think small file cabinets, one filled with car batteries.)  No
problem, says I, if I can get it going!  Hard to start in the winter,
and the hydraulics have been freezing up.  Obviously there's water in
the system.

Anyway, I get it all going and go off to meet him at his work.  The
Mog was making weird intermittent crunching noises, for which I couldn't
see any cause, and it even started pulling to the side a bit.  I'm
trepidatious, but made a commitment and decide to finish the job,
though slowly.  We got the units loaded (easily, the crane didn't even
seem to notice the weight of the battery cabinet).  On the way to the
guy's house he noticed that my noisy wheel had a camber problem.
(Much easier to see when you're watching the thing drive than when
just looking at it statically.)

Great, that explains a lot.  The oil leak at the axle must be because
the wheel bearing is shot and has allowed the axle to chew up the
seal.  The noise is explained as well.  I wonder how long it's been
like this, and what it'll cost to repair?  I kept the speeds very low
on this trip, and it made it home in apparently no worse condition
than when it left.  But it's grounded now, for sure.

Oh, and the booty?  A FerrUPS FE3.1KVA, and a Powerware CAB-N battery
cabinet, supposedly filled with 8 8-month-old 75AH sealed batteries.
(I haven't looked.)  The new price for this gear is something like
$5000, though the big capacitor may be going out on the UPS as its
power quality is suspect.  Its former owner has saltwater aquaria, and
needs reliable backup power.  The 6kW unit (with a 12-battery cabinet)
should run his entire house through the night, during the days he can
replenish with his 20kW Ford/Onan genset.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] W201 Manuals

2007-01-02 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 1/1/2007 10:57:30 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Way back  in the day there was a source for chassis manuals...   I've 
been  off the list for a while and was wondering if there is still a 
source out  there?

Thanks!!!
John



John,
 
If you are talking about on line sources, I think that skinnerbox-steaky  and 
braingear have both been shut down.  MBCA has been having a sale on the  
older manuals available on CD for as little as $30.  You might check your  
model's 
availability and price.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 146 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] ATF Type A??

2007-01-02 Thread ernest breakfield

marshall,

   this is confusing; you specifically said that MTL wasn't to be used 
in the manual boxes, but here say you've tried MTL (but didn't specify 
which box you're talking about trying it in).


   please clarify; (although it may be against the creed of some here 
who seem to think we are to worship Mobil 1 products only,) have you 
tried any of the the ATF Redline recommends for use in MBZ manual trannys?



cheers!
e


Marshall Booth wrote:
Mobil 1 ATF works better than anything I've ever tried (and I have tried 
Redine MTL).


Marshall
  




[MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread kevin kraly
The 300SD has been getting some use since it's so much easier than 
maneuvering a full size Dodge pickup around town.  I've noticed a rattle 
when going over bumps which I had thought was something in the suspension 
until I was riding in the back seat.  It turns out that it's the rear 
portion of the exhaust system.  There's supposed to be some sort of hanger 
holding it up which isn't there now.  It looks like there should be a rubber 
ring that hooks around the bracket on the underside of the car and the 
bracket on the muffler.  Is this correct?  I need to do something about it 
since it's annoying, not to mention unsafe since the muffler can fall off or 
drag.


Thanks!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] Unimog down

2007-01-02 Thread John M McIntosh


On Jan 1, 2007, at 11:15 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


A friend called, and said that he'd scored a used 6kW UPS from work,
and that he'd trade me the 3kW he'd already gotten from there in


Oddly enough I did spy in craig's list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2006-12-29, 6:04PM PST
Used APC Matrix 5000 UPS with 2 Smartcells. ($1100 cdn)
This is a 5000 vA/ 4750 watt server UPS. (Requires 208/240 V power)  
The smartcell batteries are dead but I have 4 new ones (1 cell)and  
they are readily available locally. Will deliver locally. Email for  
details.



Which is on Vancouver Island.  I do have to wonder what the week or  
of power outages they had on the north shore had did to it tho.




John
1983 300TDt  374k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] No glow.

2007-01-02 Thread Mitch Haley


Allan Streib wrote:
 
 I measured resistance on all the glow plugs and they are all reading
 0.3 ohms on my little Radio Shack digital multimeter.  The fusible
 link is intact (but is of unknown age).

Did you isolate them electrically, either by unplugging the multipin
connector at the relay or unhooking the wires at the plugs?




Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna

2007-01-02 Thread BillR
Hendrik - Thanks for the note.  The antenna went down to the last section
[leaving about 8 out of the car] until the car wash jockey pounded on it.
It still goes down just that far, but now will not go all the way up [it
leaves at least one section not extended].  I do think there is an internal
problem somewhere - and it sounds like I should try some disassembly to see
what all is broken.  I suspect a new mast will be needed, at least.  I
suppose in 25 years I can expect a bit of wear and tear, and a bit of time
and TLC will be a good investment.  It makes sense to check twice and order
once rather than the other way around...
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  282 k Miles

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Hendrik Riessen
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 8:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna


OK, you can do the slack thing or you can choose to do this properly. It is
recommended to remove the whole antenna assembly and pull it apart. Water
and dirt gets into the workings. Also there is a little wheel in there that
turns against the plastic winding thingy. What happens is that it stops
turning but the mast will still go up and down, with the end result being
that it develops a flat spot and eventually it does not apply enough
pressure and the antenna will start to stick.
If you service it now you may get away with a good clean and lube job but
once it has this flat spot you will have to buy a repair kit like this
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/60-Hirschmann-Parts/Spare+Parts

Hendrik
with only one working antenna out of three Hirschies

- Original Message -
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna


 Thanks guys - That has been bugging me for awhile.  I'll pick up a mast
 from
 Rusty and follow the directions.
 Your wisdom is much appreciated.
 BillR
 Jacksonville FL
 1981 300SD  285 k miles


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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Hans Neureiter

Yes there are, I think, 2 rubber rings holding the muffler up. Big fat
O-rings. Should be aesy to get at any dealer or Rusty.

On 1/2/07, kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The 300SD has been getting some use since it's so much easier than
maneuvering a full size Dodge pickup around town.  I've noticed a rattle
when going over bumps which I had thought was something in the suspension
until I was riding in the back seat.  It turns out that it's the rear
portion of the exhaust system.  There's supposed to be some sort of hanger
holding it up which isn't there now.  It looks like there should be a
rubber
ring that hooks around the bracket on the underside of the car and the
bracket on the muffler.  Is this correct?  I need to do something about it
since it's annoying, not to mention unsafe since the muffler can fall off
or
drag.

Thanks!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula


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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL suspension pump

2007-01-02 Thread Trampas
Thanks! 

I might order the kit and see what happens. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 9:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL suspension pump

The tandem pump has a kit available from Rusty for about $75-80.  It is a 
BEAR to replace the shaft seal.  It is supposed to take some combination of 
special tools.  Potomac German Will sell you a good pump for $125 at last 
report (March 06).  You are money ahead to replace the pump.  One lister 
sent his pump and the kit to Star Motors in NY to replace the shaft seals 
with the proper tool, but I think that was another $75 or so plus freight 
both ways.  The result was possibly better than the used pump, but maybe 
not...

Loren
88TE, Tandem pump
87TD, Tandem pump

At 04:30 PM 1/1/2007, you wrote:
I was looking under the 560SEL and notice what appears to be suspension oil
leaking from near front of engine. It appears to be coming from the
suspension pump, I was wondering if this was a common failure and if they
make a repair kit?



Thanks

Trampas

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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Loren Faeth
There should be 4 rubber donuts.  they can be put on by hand.  You can get 
replacements at flaps (don't know how good those are.)  Or its one item i'd 
consider buying from a dealer cause they'd have em and you should be able 
to walk out with 2 or 3 for $20.  Or, you can order them from Rusty and get 
good ones at a reasonable price.  If you on.ly replace the missing one(s) 
now, I'd consider replacing the rest, or all with new ones from Rusty in 
the next month or two.



At 03:05 AM 1/2/2007, you wrote:

The 300SD has been getting some use since it's so much easier than
maneuvering a full size Dodge pickup around town.  I've noticed a rattle
when going over bumps which I had thought was something in the suspension
until I was riding in the back seat.  It turns out that it's the rear
portion of the exhaust system.  There's supposed to be some sort of hanger
holding it up which isn't there now.  It looks like there should be a rubber
ring that hooks around the bracket on the underside of the car and the
bracket on the muffler.  Is this correct?  I need to do something about it
since it's annoying, not to mention unsafe since the muffler can fall off or
drag.

Thanks!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula


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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL suspension pump

2007-01-02 Thread Loren Faeth
I think you can do it.  Most people would find it not worthwhile to put a 
kit in.  I don't remember the entire sequence, but on a vickers pump you 
unscrew each of the 4 pumps for the suspension using a pin wrench 
(spanner), then the rest comes apart with circlips.  Rusty will need all 
the numbers on the pump to get you the right seal kit.  You may want a 
spare in case you bung up the shaft seal.


At 07:40 AM 1/2/2007, you wrote:

Thanks!

I might order the kit and see what happens.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 9:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 91 560SEL suspension pump

The tandem pump has a kit available from Rusty for about $75-80.  It is a
BEAR to replace the shaft seal.  It is supposed to take some combination of
special tools.  Potomac German Will sell you a good pump for $125 at last
report (March 06).  You are money ahead to replace the pump.  One lister
sent his pump and the kit to Star Motors in NY to replace the shaft seals
with the proper tool, but I think that was another $75 or so plus freight
both ways.  The result was possibly better than the used pump, but maybe
not...

Loren
88TE, Tandem pump
87TD, Tandem pump

At 04:30 PM 1/1/2007, you wrote:
I was looking under the 560SEL and notice what appears to be suspension oil
leaking from near front of engine. It appears to be coming from the
suspension pump, I was wondering if this was a common failure and if they
make a repair kit?



Thanks

Trampas

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Loren Faeth


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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
The headlight wipers was an option actually.  I have seen quite a few 
without them.  In fact, more without than with.


Werner Fehlauer wrote:

Looks like a decent car, although the description is slightly in error - 
these cars typically came with MBTex, not leather and the window sticker 
confirms that it is MBTex.  Also, the seller states that the cruise is inop, 
which should be readily fixable yet with all the work that has been done, 
this isn't taken care of?  Curious.
Last item is that it is very doubtful that the car gets 35 mpg, especially 
with a college age driver.  More typical is 30-32, so with these small 
inconsistencies, I would be careful with this seller.  Oh, also unusual is 
the lack of headlight washers, which so far I've only seen one '90 (mine) 
that did not have them, but mine was a zone car so not in the normal 
pipeline of imports by MBUSA.

Wonder what his reserve really is?

Werner


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 2.5 turbo

2007-01-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

With headlights on, activate windshield washer

Sunil Hari wrote:


I'm pretty sure that the gassers got the headlight wipers standard, but the
diesels had them as an option that no one paid for.

My 92 300D doesn't have them either, and it was bought in Cincinnati.

Question:  if you have them, how do you turn them on?  I test drove one and
looked like an idiot when I couldn't find the switch.


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



[MBZ] 201 Manuals and others

2007-01-02 Thread Frederick W Moir

http://www.tmcpubl.com/
I bot two PAPER manuals from them, GOOD Pictures, NOT CHEAP!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Klatta Nut





Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Tom Hargrave
Go ahead  replace all 4 with new. Also, the newer design is better, with a
rubber piece in the center that limits upward travel.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

There should be 4 rubber donuts.  they can be put on by hand.  You can get 
replacements at flaps (don't know how good those are.)  Or its one item i'd 
consider buying from a dealer cause they'd have em and you should be able 
to walk out with 2 or 3 for $20.  Or, you can order them from Rusty and get 
good ones at a reasonable price.  If you on.ly replace the missing one(s) 
now, I'd consider replacing the rest, or all with new ones from Rusty in 
the next month or two.


At 03:05 AM 1/2/2007, you wrote:
The 300SD has been getting some use since it's so much easier than
maneuvering a full size Dodge pickup around town.  I've noticed a rattle
when going over bumps which I had thought was something in the suspension
until I was riding in the back seat.  It turns out that it's the rear
portion of the exhaust system.  There's supposed to be some sort of hanger
holding it up which isn't there now.  It looks like there should be a
rubber
ring that hooks around the bracket on the underside of the car and the
bracket on the muffler.  Is this correct?  I need to do something about it
since it's annoying, not to mention unsafe since the muffler can fall off
or
drag.

Thanks!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula


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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Unimog down

2007-01-02 Thread Bob Rentfro

Jim typed:

aquaria

That made my day, thus far.

Bob R.


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 12:15 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Unimog down



A friend called, and said that he'd scored a used 6kW UPS from work,
and that he'd trade me the 3kW he'd already gotten from there in
exchange for my help with the crane to bring home the new units.
(Think small file cabinets, one filled with car batteries.)  No
problem, says I, if I can get it going!  Hard to start in the winter,
and the hydraulics have been freezing up.  Obviously there's water in
the system.

Anyway, I get it all going and go off to meet him at his work.  The
Mog was making weird intermittent crunching noises, for which I couldn't
see any cause, and it even started pulling to the side a bit.  I'm
trepidatious, but made a commitment and decide to finish the job,
though slowly.  We got the units loaded (easily, the crane didn't even
seem to notice the weight of the battery cabinet).  On the way to the
guy's house he noticed that my noisy wheel had a camber problem.
(Much easier to see when you're watching the thing drive than when
just looking at it statically.)

Great, that explains a lot.  The oil leak at the axle must be because
the wheel bearing is shot and has allowed the axle to chew up the
seal.  The noise is explained as well.  I wonder how long it's been
like this, and what it'll cost to repair?  I kept the speeds very low
on this trip, and it made it home in apparently no worse condition
than when it left.  But it's grounded now, for sure.

Oh, and the booty?  A FerrUPS FE3.1KVA, and a Powerware CAB-N battery
cabinet, supposedly filled with 8 8-month-old 75AH sealed batteries.
(I haven't looked.)  The new price for this gear is something like
$5000, though the big capacitor may be going out on the UPS as its
power quality is suspect.  Its former owner has saltwater aquaria, and
needs reliable backup power.  The 6kW unit (with a 12-battery cabinet)
should run his entire house through the night, during the days he can
replenish with his 20kW Ford/Onan genset.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Jim Cathey
Go ahead  replace all 4 with new. Also, the newer design is better, 
with a

rubber piece in the center that limits upward travel.


Upward travel is normally limited by a rubber bumper on the chassis
above the muffler, there should be a boss or something on the muffler
that bumps into it.  The improved 'donuts' have chain or something
inside the rubber so they don't stretch out.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Curt Raymond

Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to about 20F.
Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all the way down 
to about -5F without the block heater.

Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a challenge. I dunno 
why I had blinders on to that one. 
I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the valves set 
again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing behind the 
pickup truck twice a week...
FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to start again. 
The old battery just didn't have the capacity needed.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 23:29:56 -0500 (EST)
From: John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

My old 84 300SD (~200K at crunching) was regularly started at 24 
without 
plugging in and at 14 once or twice. 

The 1985 300D use to have issues, but I found that I had a subtly 
failed 
GP relay (it lit the light but did not really work). Apparently water 
had 
wicked up under the cover, then past a cracked/broken o-ring into the 
box 
itself-It had close to a cup of water in it when I opened it!  I have 
had 
no problems with cold-weather starting since then.  Oh yeah, I use the 
older type (old stock here) red-top M1 15w50, and have for several 
years. 
I also adjust the valves every fall.

-j.

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Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2007 11:35:22 -0500
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] No glow.
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Jim Cathey writes:

 I measured resistance on all the glow plugs and they are all reading
 0.3 ohms on my little Radio Shack digital multimeter.

 You did remove the plug from the GP relay before checking
 the five GP resistances?  If you don't they're all in parallel
 and a bad one won't show up.  Such low resistance is difficult
 for most meters to measure accurately, and 0.3 ohms is half
 what each GP should be.

*Slap forehead* 

No, I did not unplug the connector.  Will recheck as soon as I get
back to the house.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] intermittent heat

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Peter Frederick writes:

 Bad monovalve, the boot is swollen and it won't allow water to flow
 correclty.
 
 Easy fix.

Easy fix meaning replace the monovalve, or ... ?  It's not in
Rusty's online catalog, are they readily available?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] No glow.

2007-01-02 Thread Mitch Haley


Allan Streib wrote:
 No, I did not unplug the connector.  Will recheck as soon as I get
 back to the house.

BTW, I had a forehead-slapper this morning when somebody mentioned
batteries. When my 300SD wouldn't light the glow lamp, I bought
a couple of new glow plugs, put in a new battery, and found the
glow light functioned fine with a good battery, no need to mess
with the plugs. Still have two new in box glow plugs 3 years later.




[MBZ] list name

2007-01-02 Thread R A Bennell
I am amazed that there have been no comments in regard to the use of the MBZ 
name by the another list - until
Marshall asked them not to and they switched to M-B.

Randy




Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I mean,
the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
kettle syndrome.

Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block heater.
My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all last time
I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from Rusty.

Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as I
crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't explode.

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to about
20F.
Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all the way
down to about -5F without the block heater.

Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a challenge. I
dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the valves set
again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing behind
the pickup truck twice a week...
FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to start
again. The old b





attery just didn't have the capacity needed.


-Curt


Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

Yeah, mine went away recently too. Desert living has most things dried out
on that vehicle. I figured the fat rubber hangers were cheap and I must
remember to order them when I put in my glow plug order.

Meantime, I have two white zip ties on each hanger. That's class!

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Go ahead  replace all 4 with new. Also, the newer design is better,
 with a
 rubber piece in the center that limits upward travel.

Upward travel is normally limited by a rubber bumper on the chassis
above the muffler, there should be a boss or something on the muffler
that bumps into it.  The improved 'donuts' have chain or something
inside the rubber so they don't stretch out.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Levi Smith

Have you had a lot of batteries explode?

Levi (:
Still wondering if there's any hope for his Red top Optima that seems to
just continually draw as much power as you put in it (sucked 5 amps for
about 3 days straight before I disconnected it).

On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I
mean,
the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
kettle syndrome.

Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block
heater.
My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all last
time
I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from Rusty.

Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as I
crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't
explode.

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to about
 20F.
 Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all the
way
 down to about -5F without the block heater.

 Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a challenge. I
 dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
 I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the valves
set
 again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing
behind
 the pickup truck twice a week...
 FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to start
 again. The old b




attery just didn't have the capacity needed.

 -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: [Diesel-Vanagon] OT: FS, super-nice Mercedes 300 diesel, spare for your Vanagon?

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 Looks nicer than ours which has half the miles.

 I wonder, though, if the speedometer is reading 15 mph low, is that odometer
 reading low too? They work in conjunction, right?
   

They do, but the speedometer can have a calibration error even if the
odometer reads correctly.  If the error is due to larger tires they'll
both be wrong.



Re: [MBZ] old rubber (was rear exhaust hanger question)

2007-01-02 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Folks, its pretty well established that if you want all those parts of your 
car that relies on the flexibility of rubber (bushings, exhaust hangers, 
brake hoses, etc), that after about ten years, you should consider replacing 
them - at least the ones that are hard, cracked, swelled, or just out of 
shape.  Besides exhaust hangers that stretch and break, brake hoses have 
been known to swell and actually close up so that fluid can't get through to 
do what needs to be done!
Kind of like Dr. Booths admonition about fuses - change them out or be 
prepared to chase problems at inopportune times.


Werner


- Original Message - 
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question



Yeah, mine went away recently too. Desert living has most things dried out
on that vehicle. I figured the fat rubber hangers were cheap and I must
remember to order them when I put in my glow plug order.

Meantime, I have two white zip ties on each hanger. That's class!

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Go ahead  replace all 4 with new. Also, the newer design is better,
 with a
 rubber piece in the center that limits upward travel.

Upward travel is normally limited by a rubber bumper on the chassis
above the muffler, there should be a boss or something on the muffler
that bumps into it.  The improved 'donuts' have chain or something
inside the rubber so they don't stretch out.

-- Jim





Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

Ha. No, hopefully I'd have learned by now if I had.

I've seen, or at least heard, two or three batterties explode when I worked
at at service station. I think the cause was leaving them on a somewhat
rapid charge for too long with the caps still on. And I think once I saw one
explode from cranking the engine with the charger hooked up to it - this
probably after being on the charger for a good period of time with the caps
on?

The bubbling noise, seeping sound, heat, and sulfer-like smell are all
warning signs. But with many young men working in a busy shop with their
attentions divided many ways, (some of them - not me- high on either pot or
freon sucked straight out of a car's system) this can still happen.

Brian


On 1/2/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Have you had a lot of batteries explode?

Levi (:
Still wondering if there's any hope for his Red top Optima that seems to
just continually draw as much power as you put in it (sucked 5 amps for
about 3 days straight before I disconnected it).

On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I
 mean,
 the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
 kettle syndrome.

 Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block
 heater.
 My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all last
 time
 I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from Rusty.

 Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
 charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
 outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as I
 crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't
 explode.

 Brian
 83 240D


 On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to
about
  20F.
  Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all the
 way
  down to about -5F without the block heater.
 
  Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a challenge.
I
  dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
  I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the valves
 set
  again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing
 behind
  the pickup truck twice a week...
  FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to
start
  again. The old b




 attery just didn't have the capacity needed.
 
  -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Levi Smith

I would have thought it more likely to be a spark in the vicinity during one
of those charging times that caused the explosion?  I wasn't aware that
under normal circumstances you could blow up a battery simply by charging
it...  Or maybe it was possible with older batteries?

Levi

On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Ha. No, hopefully I'd have learned by now if I had.

I've seen, or at least heard, two or three batterties explode when I
worked
at at service station. I think the cause was leaving them on a somewhat
rapid charge for too long with the caps still on. And I think once I saw
one
explode from cranking the engine with the charger hooked up to it - this
probably after being on the charger for a good period of time with the
caps
on?

The bubbling noise, seeping sound, heat, and sulfer-like smell are all
warning signs. But with many young men working in a busy shop with their
attentions divided many ways, (some of them - not me- high on either pot
or
freon sucked straight out of a car's system) this can still happen.

Brian


On 1/2/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Have you had a lot of batteries explode?

 Levi (:
 Still wondering if there's any hope for his Red top Optima that seems to
 just continually draw as much power as you put in it (sucked 5 amps for
 about 3 days straight before I disconnected it).

 On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I
  mean,
  the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
  kettle syndrome.
 
  Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block
  heater.
  My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all
last
  time
  I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from
Rusty.
 
  Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
  charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
  outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as
I
  crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't
  explode.
 
  Brian
  83 240D
 
 
  On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  
   Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to
 about
   20F.
   Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all
the
  way
   down to about -5F without the block heater.
  
   Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a
challenge.
 I
   dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
   I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the
valves
  set
   again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing
  behind
   the pickup truck twice a week...
   FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to
 start
   again. The old b
 
 
 
 
  attery just didn't have the capacity needed.
  
   -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] old rubber

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Werner Fehlauer writes:

 Besides exhaust hangers that stretch and break, brake hoses have
 been known to swell and actually close up so that fluid can't get
 through to do what needs to be done!

Or, the fluid WILL go through under pressure, but then when you
release the brake it will not flow BACK and you end up with your
brakes clamped on.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon

2007-01-02 Thread Alan Clarke
I found a right fender in good shape at a Pick and Pull.  The problem 
was getting the thing off of the vehicle.  They use some sort of  putty 
on the seam that was impossible to get off.  The manual talks about 
using heat to soften it and I had a small butane blow torch thing but 
that didn't help.  I gave up, a few people followed me and they were 
unsuccessful also getting the fender off, all bolts had been removed it 
was just that damn putty.  Asked a knowledgeable body shop fellow who 
just stated that's why we use new ones.




Alan   
85 300 Turbo



Craig McCluskey wrote:

I'm going to be driving out there and want to find a W123 hood and right
front fender in good condition.

Anyone have any suggestions where?

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Levi Smith wrote:
 I would have thought it more likely to be a spark in the vicinity during one
 of those charging times that caused the explosion?  I wasn't aware that
 under normal circumstances you could blow up a battery simply by charging
 it...  Or maybe it was possible with older batteries?
   

Overcharging plus plugged vent caps can burst a battery.  Letting the
battery heat up to the point where the plates warp and short can also
spark an explosion.  A battery being rapid-charged produces hydrogen gas
at a pretty furious rate, so the atmosphere in and around it will be
rather explosive.



Re: [MBZ] Lobstah

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Zeitgeist wrote:
 Almost always requires a reservation down here in Olympia.  Probably one of
 the premier eateries in town, which mostly speaks to the a sad dearth of
 dining options.
   

I usually go to the Point Defiance one.  I usually have to wait 30-45
minutes if I don't have a reservation.



Re: [MBZ] M1 - Oil Analysis of Unused M1 0W30 (Hope it getsthruwithout being Stripped)

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
LarryT wrote:
 Excess gas in the oil is a common problem and IMO is caused by short trips 
 which do not allow the oil to get hot enough to burn off the excess fuel - 
 which is probably caused by poorly tuned carburetors or FI/
   

Stuck chokes will also do this, bad carb floats, bad fuel pumps on cars
that have engine-driven mechanical pumps, etc.  In severe cases the
engine can actually appear to gain oil.

Gasoline contamination of the oil is why some old cars get better
emissions test numbers with fresh oil.  The gasoline fumes that cook out
of old, contaminated oil end up in the breather system and go into the
intake manifold, making the mixture richer.



Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

Indeed, maybe a spark introduced into the whole mix can be the cause in the
case of bursting or exploding upon start attempt.

Brian


On 1/2/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith wrote:
 I would have thought it more likely to be a spark in the vicinity during
one
 of those charging times that caused the explosion?  I wasn't aware that
 under normal circumstances you could blow up a battery simply by
charging
 it...  Or maybe it was possible with older batteries?


Overcharging plus plugged vent caps can burst a battery.  Letting the
battery heat up to the point where the plates warp and short can also
spark an explosion.  A battery being rapid-charged produces hydrogen gas
at a pretty furious rate, so the atmosphere in and around it will be
rather explosive.

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Re: [MBZ] old rubber

2007-01-02 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 1/2/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Werner Fehlauer writes:

 Besides exhaust hangers that stretch and break, brake hoses have
 been known to swell and actually close up so that fluid can't get
 through to do what needs to be done!

Or, the fluid WILL go through under pressure, but then when you
release the brake it will not flow BACK and you end up with your
brakes clamped on.



Don't forget vacuum hoses!  Many a slow-to-shut-off diesel engine,
dysfunctional door lock, or rough-idling gasser has been cured by their
replacement.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'92 Isuzu Trooper (currently idling rough---the shoemaker's children go
barefoot)


Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon

2007-01-02 Thread R A Bennell
Unfortunately, some of the other parts of the car get ruined in the process, 
but a battery powered sawzall with
some metal cutting blades can usually get a part released so that you can work 
on it at home. The yards around here
will not let you in with any sort of torch. I assume they are concerned about 
fires.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Alan Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 2:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Salvage yards in California and Oregon


I found a right fender in good shape at a Pick and Pull.  The problem
was getting the thing off of the vehicle.  They use some sort of  putty
on the seam that was impossible to get off.  The manual talks about
using heat to soften it and I had a small butane blow torch thing but
that didn't help.  I gave up, a few people followed me and they were
unsuccessful also getting the fender off, all bolts had been removed it
was just that damn putty.  Asked a knowledgeable body shop fellow who
just stated that's why we use new ones.



Alan
85 300 Turbo


 Craig McCluskey wrote:
 I'm going to be driving out there and want to find a W123 hood and right
 front fender in good condition.

 Anyone have any suggestions where?

 Thanks,


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] list name

2007-01-02 Thread Chris Kueny
And yet Hank Hill had to give Marshall, and another listmember who caught a 
mistake in the footer URL's, flippant and borderline nasty replies.  He's 
either working too hard or off his meds.


Chris K
Cayce, SC

- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 12:13 PM
Subject: [MBZ] list name


I am amazed that there have been no comments in regard to the use of the 
MBZ name by the another list - until

Marshall asked them not to and they switched to M-B.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Euan
Don't mess about with anything other than the designated donuts for your 
Benz.. They're the right size and rubber composition for your system. 
Generic donuts or road-side salvages will have your muffler swinging 
about worse than a hot day's scrotum [pardon my turn-of-phrase].


Euan
CHCH
NZ

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

There should be 4 rubber donuts.  they can be put on by hand.  You can get 
replacements at flaps (don't know how good those are.)  Or its one item i'd 
consider buying from a dealer cause they'd have em and you should be able 
to walk out with 2 or 3 for $20.  Or, you can order them from Rusty and get 
good ones at a reasonable price.  If you on.ly replace the missing one(s) 
now, I'd consider replacing the rest, or all with new ones from Rusty in 
the next month or two.
  





Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

OK, my moth-pocket self perked up upon mention of your nylon rope success.

Do tell: Are you able to find black rope so that the rear-most ones won't
look lousy to the more discriminating tailgater? And do you not find that
the hangers occasionally play jump rope? What kind of knot do you tie to
make things inconspicuous? (I'm not worth my salt in the area of
knot-tying).

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I've tired of constantly replacing the rubber donuts, and am now using
nylon cord/rope - 1/4 inch or so - two wraps around the hangers, and
tie it off. the Nylon has some give, hasn't melted under heat in the
last six years, doesn't get hard and brittle near as fast, and I've
never had to replace any.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

Looks like it's closing time in Georgia (they're Eastern time over at
Rusty's operation I guess). Was trying to call them and ask which glow plug
to order. My engine number does not match any of the provided numbers on
their glow plug page.

I guess my engine came out of an '82 240D. Maybe I'll type in '82 for the
year and see what comes up.

Didn't think the engine number would be any different.

The number on my engine is: 616 912 10 268124

Brian
83 240D


Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Zoltan Finks writes:

 OK, my moth-pocket self perked up upon mention of your nylon rope
 success.

You can get new hangers from Rusty for a couple of bucks each.  Is it
really worth messing around with something else?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

If they're a couple bucks each, it'd be a close call.

Brian


On 1/2/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Zoltan Finks writes:

 OK, my moth-pocket self perked up upon mention of your nylon rope
 success.

You can get new hangers from Rusty for a couple of bucks each.  Is it
really worth messing around with something else?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Allan Streib
Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 If they're a couple bucks each, it'd be a close call.

Double check that this is the right one, but

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/022406/quote.jsp?header=http://www.buymbparts.com/header.txtfooter=http://www.buymbparts.com/footer.txtproduct=H8050-14328partner=buymbbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/clientid=buymbparts

There'd be some shipping charge too, unless you can put enough
together to reach his free shipping minimum.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna

2007-01-02 Thread Hendrik Riessen
The thing is that they are relatively easy to remove and disassemble, what I 
usally do is to take the motor out so I can turn the mechanism by hand and 
fit the new mast that way. This way it is easy to see/feel how the thing is 
working.
That little steel wheel is critical to the operation of the aerial because 
it applies pressure, without that pressure the mast won't go all the way 
up/down but rather just move the mast up and down in the easy 2 and 3 parts 
of the mast.
I usally pull any electric aerial I come across at the wreckers apart to see 
if there are any good parts inside, if not I reassemble the aerial and put 
it back in the boot for someone else to look at/buy.


- Original Message - 
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Antenna



Hendrik - Thanks for the note.  The antenna went down to the last section
[leaving about 8 out of the car] until the car wash jockey pounded on it.
It still goes down just that far, but now will not go all the way up [it
leaves at least one section not extended].  I do think there is an 
internal
problem somewhere - and it sounds like I should try some disassembly to 
see

what all is broken.  I suspect a new mast will be needed, at least.  I
suppose in 25 years I can expect a bit of wear and tear, and a bit of time
and TLC will be a good investment.  It makes sense to check twice and 
order

once rather than the other way around...
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  282 k Miles




Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread R A Bennell
You can likely get them locally for that price too. I did. 

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 4:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question


If they're a couple bucks each, it'd be a close call.

Brian


On 1/2/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Zoltan Finks writes:

  OK, my moth-pocket self perked up upon mention of your nylon rope
  success.

 You can get new hangers from Rusty for a couple of bucks each.  Is it
 really worth messing around with something else?

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D
 1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Checking Oil Level

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 As a pump-jockey, I ran into that many times (I'm sure others have too).
 Sometimes it's downright irritating. I seem to see it with auto tranny fluid
 dipsticks more. You have to re-dip half a dozen times and sort of use the
 most common reading.

I always have that problem with ATF dipsticks.  Either that or the whole
stick ends up coated no matter how I try to read it.

Some engines are easy to read the dipstick on and some aren't.  My
Mercedes was always easy.  My VW Cabriolet is easy.  But my Crown Vic is
a trial.  The oil won't form anything like an even line on the stick. 
It wicks up it in some places and runs off in others.  The stick has
holes drilled at the ADD and FULL marks, so I've been going by those. 
If there's oil trapped in the ADD hole I figure the level is above that
point.

Cars with short, stiff dipsticks that go in straight seem to be
easiest.  The Cabriolet's is like that.  I used to have a diesel Vanagon
with a short, bright-orange plastic stick and that one was a piece of
cake to read.  Long, floppy dipsticks that follow convoluted tubes seem
to be the worst.



Re: [MBZ] geoduck

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Zeitgeist wrote:
 Geoducks are quite tasty (especially in chowdah), but other NW bivalves are
 even better, such as the Razor Clam, Butter Clam and Olympia Oyster...oh,
 and the Dungeness Crab kicks crustacean butt, too!
   

Mmm. I love razor clams.  I didn't think I liked seafood until I moved
out here.  Then I found out I'd just never had really fresh seafood.




Re: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT

Do you have the Fast glow plugs?
If so, and they weren't original to your 240D, it's best to wait and call 
Rusty - he'll know exactly what to send - I believe they work 9-5 ET.


Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering



Looks like it's closing time in Georgia (they're Eastern time over at
Rusty's operation I guess). Was trying to call them and ask which glow 
plug

to order. My engine number does not match any of the provided numbers on
their glow plug page.

I guess my engine came out of an '82 240D. Maybe I'll type in '82 for the
year and see what comes up.

Didn't think the engine number would be any different.

The number on my engine is: 616 912 10 268124

Brian
83 240D
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Re: [MBZ] Checking Oil Level

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

Y'all can tell I have a lazy day of haning around and messing with computer
and working out/eating.

Dipsticks: I think it's a real problem to add fluid down ATF tube, then try
to check it.

And the three foot long ones were always quite unpleasing - made you look
foolish as you try to catch the end of it.

Some of the most pleasing dipsticks were on the mail jeeps we checked. Right
there and short and to the point.

Brian


On 1/2/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Zoltan Finks wrote:
 As a pump-jockey, I ran into that many times (I'm sure others have too).
 Sometimes it's downright irritating. I seem to see it with auto tranny
fluid
 dipsticks more. You have to re-dip half a dozen times and sort of use
the
 most common reading.

I always have that problem with ATF dipsticks.  Either that or the whole
stick ends up coated no matter how I try to read it.

Some engines are easy to read the dipstick on and some aren't.  My
Mercedes was always easy.  My VW Cabriolet is easy.  But my Crown Vic is
a trial.  The oil won't form anything like an even line on the stick.
It wicks up it in some places and runs off in others.  The stick has
holes drilled at the ADD and FULL marks, so I've been going by those.
If there's oil trapped in the ADD hole I figure the level is above that
point.

Cars with short, stiff dipsticks that go in straight seem to be
easiest.  The Cabriolet's is like that.  I used to have a diesel Vanagon
with a short, bright-orange plastic stick and that one was a piece of
cake to read.  Long, floppy dipsticks that follow convoluted tubes seem
to be the worst.

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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT
Depending on your MB, there are Hard and Soft compound donuts - also, if 
your state has a vehicle inspection they'll be unlikely to let rope (or 
metal, duct tape, etc) pass.



Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
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.
- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question



Zoltan Finks writes:


OK, my moth-pocket self perked up upon mention of your nylon rope
success.


You can get new hangers from Rusty for a couple of bucks each.  Is it
really worth messing around with something else?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] New thread, used to be Re: ADMIN, foul language. Happy New Year.

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Zoltan Finks wrote:
 I, and most given to contemplation, have analyzed what it is about certain
 words that makes them unacceptable in society. The four letter word could be
 buck just as easily as it could be fuck and if society has labeled it
 profane, it's profane. In that respect, you're correct - it's all relative.
   

Many of the four-letter terms that are considered profane now were
originally merely descriptive.  But they were lower-class and vulgar and
conveyed concepts that were not to be discussed in polite company in a
more puritanical age.  Profanity back then would have been the use of
religiously blasphemous language.




Re: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering

2007-01-02 Thread Zoltan Finks

I actually don't know if I have the fast plugs. I know I asked about this a
few days ago, but still not sure (my fault).

We'll be moving away from a cold climate, and to Washington state, (you
heard me, Zeitgeist), so may not need the quick plugs?

I thought that by around '82 or '83 vehicles were equipped with pencil
type that did not take all four out if one goes out. Loop type would be the
older and were wired such that one bad one took all of them out?

Brian
83 240D
Glad things can't be thrown at me via the inernet


On 1/2/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Do you have the Fast glow plugs?
If so, and they weren't original to your 240D, it's best to wait and call
Rusty - he'll know exactly what to send - I believe they work 9-5 ET.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering


 Looks like it's closing time in Georgia (they're Eastern time over at
 Rusty's operation I guess). Was trying to call them and ask which glow
 plug
 to order. My engine number does not match any of the provided numbers on
 their glow plug page.

 I guess my engine came out of an '82 240D. Maybe I'll type in '82 for
the
 year and see what comes up.

 Didn't think the engine number would be any different.

 The number on my engine is: 616 912 10 268124

 Brian
 83 240D
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
Tom Hargrave wrote:
 My Wife bought a 2006 4WD Grand Cherokee with a V6 last year and she loves
 it. The system is a full time 4WD  it uses the brakes to lock down any
 wheel that spins. She does need it since she works in Wisconsin. I've driven
 the jeep in the snow and the 4WD system works great.
   

How's reliability?  I've been a little leery of them every since meeting
a guy who had an older Cherokee, I think from the mid 90s.  He had to
put a new ABS pump in it roughly once a year, to the tune of several
hundred bucks.  Apparently it was a design flaw Chrysler wouldn't own up to.




Re: [MBZ] Checking Oil Level

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT

David wrote:Long, floppy dipsticks that follow convoluted tubes seem
to be the worst.

That would seem to indicate the oil is rubbing against the sides of the tube 
and smearing it across the dipstick.  Now that you mention it, the dipstick 
on my lawnmower is extremely easy to read - and it's only about 4 long and 
and made of hard yellow plastic - so it;s very easy to see the oil level.


I guess I need to try multiple attempts at checking the level to try and get 
an average level.


Thanks for all the comments - I was bginning to think I;d lost my ability to 
perform such a simple task.  Hmmm... I wonder if using Synthetic has made 
this problem worse ?


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Checking Oil Level



Zoltan Finks wrote:

As a pump-jockey, I ran into that many times (I'm sure others have too).
Sometimes it's downright irritating. I seem to see it with auto tranny 
fluid

dipsticks more. You have to re-dip half a dozen times and sort of use the
most common reading.


I always have that problem with ATF dipsticks.  Either that or the whole
stick ends up coated no matter how I try to read it.

Some engines are easy to read the dipstick on and some aren't.  My
Mercedes was always easy.  My VW Cabriolet is easy.  But my Crown Vic is
a trial.  The oil won't form anything like an even line on the stick.
It wicks up it in some places and runs off in others.  The stick has
holes drilled at the ADD and FULL marks, so I've been going by those.
If there's oil trapped in the ADD hole I figure the level is above that
point.

Cars with short, stiff dipsticks that go in straight seem to be
easiest.  The Cabriolet's is like that.  I used to have a diesel Vanagon
with a short, bright-orange plastic stick and that one was a piece of
cake to read.  Long, floppy dipsticks that follow convoluted tubes seem
to be the worst.

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Re: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering

2007-01-02 Thread LarryT
I think you're correct - around 81 the factory was installing the pencil 
plugs with fast wiring. If you have the very large metal (1/16 dia or so) 
rods between GPs those are the old fashioned GP's with the old fashioned 
wiring.


The fast glow system has wiring that look like those to power your radio -

But with an 83 240D - the last year for the W123 240D (in USA at least) 
making it the most developed 240D extant.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering



I actually don't know if I have the fast plugs. I know I asked about this a
few days ago, but still not sure (my fault).

We'll be moving away from a cold climate, and to Washington state, (you
heard me, Zeitgeist), so may not need the quick plugs?

I thought that by around '82 or '83 vehicles were equipped with pencil
type that did not take all four out if one goes out. Loop type would be 
the

older and were wired such that one bad one took all of them out?

Brian
83 240D
Glad things can't be thrown at me via the inernet


On 1/2/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Do you have the Fast glow plugs?
If so, and they weren't original to your 240D, it's best to wait and call
Rusty - he'll know exactly what to send - I believe they work 9-5 ET.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Engine Number for G.P. Ordering


 Looks like it's closing time in Georgia (they're Eastern time over at
 Rusty's operation I guess). Was trying to call them and ask which glow
 plug
 to order. My engine number does not match any of the provided numbers 
 on

 their glow plug page.

 I guess my engine came out of an '82 240D. Maybe I'll type in '82 for
the
 year and see what comes up.

 Didn't think the engine number would be any different.

 The number on my engine is: 616 912 10 268124

 Brian
 83 240D
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 1/1/2007





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Re: [MBZ] Bob Hoover

2007-01-02 Thread David Brodbeck
OK Don wrote:
 It's not crazy - it's precise control, and knowing EXACTLY what he's
 doing!  Did you catch the comment about his 'late' friends who thought
 it was cool to fly lower than anyone else?
   

Yeah, you don't reach Bob Hoover's age doing that kind of thing if you
don't know what you're doing.  There's a saying, There are old pilots,
and there are bold pilots, but there are no old, bold pilots.




Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?

2007-01-02 Thread Tom Hargrave
This is her second new Grand Cherokee and fourth new Chrysler Product 
all have performed flawlessly.

The key sensor failed in the new one  the dealership replaced it under
warranty. The 2001 warped 2 rotors  I replaced them  the calipers
myself. I lost a water pump in the 2001 at 120,000 miles  lost the
water pump in her second Dodge truck at 86,000 miles.

I consider the rotors  water pumps regular service items.

Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com

Original Message
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 01/02/07 06:02 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Audi Allroad?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Tom Hargrave wrote:
 My Wife bought a 2006 4WD Grand Cherokee with a V6 last year and she
loves
 it. The system is a full time 4WD  it uses the brakes to lock down
any
 wheel that spins. She does need it since she works in Wisconsin. I've
driven
 the jeep in the snow and the 4WD system works great.
   

How's reliability?  I've been a little leery of them every since meeting
a guy who had an older Cherokee, I think from the mid 90s.  He had to
put a new ABS pump in it roughly once a year, to the tune of several
hundred bucks.  Apparently it was a design flaw Chrysler wouldn't own up
to.


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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread Tom Hargrave
That's the old style hanger. There is nothing wrong with the old style
but there is always a chance that the muffler can bounce out of the
hangers. The new style has rubber inserts in the center to prevent this
from happening.

Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
 
Original Message
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 01/02/07 05:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 If they're a couple bucks each, it'd be a close call.

Double check that this is the right one, but

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/022406/quote.jsp?header=http:
//www.buymbparts.com/header.txtfooter=http://www.buymbparts.com/footer.
txtproduct=H8050-14328partner=buymbbaseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/
clientid=buymbparts

There'd be some shipping charge too, unless you can put enough
together to reach his free shipping minimum.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] rear exhaust hanger question

2007-01-02 Thread OK Don

I find that road dirt makes the white nylon less conspicuous in short
order. If the muffler is tied up into place, I don't think many
tailgaters will be able to see it - if you don't leave long dangling
ends. I've never had one jump off. I either use a couple of square
knots (not optimal, but effective so far), or one of those specialized
nautical knots - that I only learn long enough to use once every
several years. If I've used it recently, I use it on the muffler. If
it's been too long, then it gets a square knot or two.
It seemed like I was replacing those rubber donuts every year or two
(regardless of source) - multiplied by too many cars, and it becomes a
hassle that's easily avoided with a bit of nylon.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager