Re: [MBZ] FW: '84 300D GPR

2014-12-07 Thread Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes
Ah, Ok the issue here isn't the GP relay at all most likely.  The glow
plug system and the starter are mostly independent.  One will function if
the other is faulty, and neither can bring the other one down.

Your problem is, in order of likleyhood:
1. Bad ground at the Battery, chassis connection, or either end of the
ground strap to the engine block
2. Failing starter solenoid (tap lightly with a hammer to see if it helps)
3. Failing ignition switch (unlikely, but could no longer pass enough
current to the starter solenoid).

If its really an issue of the battery going dead, then the GP relay could
still be at fault.  But you'd know this because you'd have to charge the
battery to get the car to start again.

Jaime


On Sat, Dec 6, 2014 at 6:21 PM, G. M. Brown via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Latest on '84 300D GPR:

 From: g_010...@hotmail.com
 To: jaime...@gmail.com
 Subject: RE: [MBZ] '84 300D GPR
 Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 14:55:10 -0500




 Jaime,
 As per my previous note, the glow plug lite in the dash lites up OK when
 the key is turned to the ON/Start position but, when the condition occurs
 when it doesn't start, there's only a slight click and a signal from the
 starter as if the battery was almost dead . . . not enough power to turn
 the starter enough to start the car.  Note, a new glow plug fuse was
 installed in March.  What I don't understand is that the car wouldn't start
 yesterday, but started OK today prior to my doing anything to it.
 Thanx.

 Glenn

 Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 13:48:39 -0500
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '84 300D GPR
 From: jaime...@gmail.com
 To: g_010...@hotmail.com

 Hi Glenn,
 This is why information from the internet isn't always so reliable ;-)
 Funny... I have the same issue with my 79 300SD.  I take apart the relay
 once a year to clean it up with deoxit and some paper towels.  One of these
 days I'll break down and buy a new one, but until then...
 One thing you should be weary of is the fuse. It might look good, but not
 be able to support the 50+amps when the plugs are glowing.  I've seen them
 when they look ok, then break in two when you remove them a fiddle with
 them a bit.
 What exactly is the problem when it doesn't work?  No light and no glow?
 Or no light with glow?  If I remember correctly it is a failure mode for
 the light to not come on, but still provide power to the plugs if there is
 one or more thats failed.
 Good luck,Jaime

 On Sat, Dec 6, 2014 at 1:37 PM, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:



 Jaime,
 Prior to going out to the garage to see what else I could do about this, I
 found the following from a guy on the PeachParts site:
 Yes, you can pull it apart and clean the board/resolder the components.



 If it's stuck on just pull the bucket off, removing a screw in each of
  the four corners. Check the solenoid (the thing that moves) and it's
 contacts. Sometimes water will seep in and corrode on the contacts. They
  should be smooth. If they're not use a piece of sandpaper or a really
 fine file to remove any built up corrosion.



 If that doesn't work, just get another one. Unless you want to spend the
 time testing and resoldering each component.


 Today's episode:
 1. The car started OK prior to doing anything.
 2. The glow plug lite in the dash lites up OK when the key is turned to
 the ON/Start position.
 3. There's continuity between the two sides of the glow plug fuse.
 4. There's power to each side of the glow plug fuse when the key is turned
 to the ON/Start position.
 5. For grins, I DeOxit'd the female pin plugs to the glow plug relay box.
 6. The car started OK after messin' around as well.

 If the bloody thing misbehaves on my attempt to go to church tomorrow, I'm
 not sure what else I can do.

 Glenn
 Brevard, NC
 Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 10:42:12 -0500
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '84 300D GPR
 From: jaime...@gmail.com
 To: g_010...@hotmail.com; mercedes@okiebenz.com

 I think the problem is that you sanded the contacts.  Its like ignition
 points, if you sand off the surface coating then the likelyhood that they
 corrode and fail again are much higher.
 Jaime

 On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 5:01 PM, G. M. Brown via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 I had a buzzing problem upon starting attempt with the GPR in my '84 300D
 back in March, took it apart resoldered the PCB, lightly sanded the contact
 points, and cleaned the external pin connections and it's been OK till the
 other day when all I would get was a click when attempting to start and it
 sounded like the battery was dead.  I checked the battery voltage and it's
 fine, so I took the GPR apart again, cleaned things up, lightly sanded the
 contact points, and DeOxit'd the contact points and external pins and the
 car started fine for one day, but it was back to the click and sounding
 like the battery is dead.  I remembered someone indicating back in March
 that moisture can get into the GPR box, but I sealed the edges w/ RTV the
 other day.  I'll dig into it again 

Re: [MBZ] FW: '84 300D GPR

2014-12-07 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
Check the starter solenoid wire on the firewall, it's a purple wire  
going to a jumper block below the battery if I remember correctly.


It's common for the connection to corrode, giving you intermittent  
starter operation.


Loose engine ground and ignition switch are the two common things  
between glow plugs and starter.


Also make sure the main bus line from the positive cable at the  
starter is actually attached.  It slips up into the cable cover when  
the cable is removed, and sometimes doesn't get re-installed as a  
result.  Usually causes all sorts of other electrical gremlins though,  
as it' supplies the power to the fuse box and keyswitch.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Sat morning fun

2014-12-07 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
When I left Texas I had an 87 Blazer that was getting almost rusted 
out.  I had an old guy build an engine for me and put it in the truck a 
few years before.  I pulled the engine and tranny and gave the hulk to a 
guy.  Not sure what I would ever do with it but the engine was somewhat 
pricey and ran well, so figured at some point it would come in handy for 
something, like when I'm 85 and need another project.


Looking back on it, I should have kept the truck and brought it here to 
SC as there is no inspection, emissions, or anything else to comply 
with.  I could have done some welding on the body and put a carb or new 
EFI on the engine (it had the original TBFI set up which was not 
particularly good) to get more power and better running, and have the 
truck, but I guess I really did not need it for anything other than a 
project, of which I have plenty.  I did like that truck though, it was 
very agricultural and the 4WD would crawl up the side of the house.


--R


On 12/6/14 8:14 PM, Tim Crone wrote:


On Dec 6, 2014 12:16 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


 I got a built-up 350 in the garage, that would work.

Wait, what?  Did you lose a car?  Forgive me if I'm way behind.

Best,
Tim



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Re: [MBZ] FW: '84 300D GPR

2014-12-07 Thread David Bruckmann via Mercedes
Possibly useful random data:

My W115 300D does an odd thing whereby, after preglow, turning the ignition 
switch to the start position occasionally has no effect at all on the starter. 
No click, nothing. 

I think it is the ground path to the ignition switch, because a) it is more 
frequent when everything is warm/hot, an b) turning off the the key and waiting 
a few seconds, then turning straight through to start position usually works. 
The longer you wait between stopping glowing and starting again the better the 
chances it will work. 

Since there's no relationship between glowing and starting on a W115 apart from 
the ignition switch (and harness, of course) I suspect the switch. 

All of this to say: you could have a switch issue as well. The other thing that 
happened on my 300D is the solenoid connection at the starter came loose, with 
obvious effect. 

Good luck!


 On Dec 7, 2014, at 04:00, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Message: 11
 Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 05:53:40 -0500
 From: Jaime Kopchinski 
 To: G. M. Brown, Mercedes Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: '84 300D GPR
 
 
 Ah, Ok the issue here isn't the GP relay at all most likely.  The glow
 plug system and the starter are mostly independent.  One will function if
 the other is faulty, and neither can bring the other one down.
 
 Your problem is, in order of likleyhood:
 1. Bad ground at the Battery, chassis connection, or either end of the
 ground strap to the engine block
 2. Failing starter solenoid (tap lightly with a hammer to see if it helps)
 3. Failing ignition switch (unlikely, but could no longer pass enough
 current to the starter solenoid).
 
 If its really an issue of the battery going dead, then the GP relay could
 still be at fault.  But you'd know this because you'd have to charge the
 battery to get the car to start again.
 
 Jaime

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Re: [MBZ] Sat morning fun

2014-12-07 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
And you could have given Dimitri a chance to come down and weld away all
the rusty spots.

On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 11:40 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 When I left Texas I had an 87 Blazer that was getting almost rusted out.
 I had an old guy build an engine for me and put it in the truck a few years
 before.  I pulled the engine and tranny and gave the hulk to a guy.  Not
 sure what I would ever do with it but the engine was somewhat pricey and
 ran well, so figured at some point it would come in handy for something,
 like when I'm 85 and need another project.

 Looking back on it, I should have kept the truck and brought it here to SC
 as there is no inspection, emissions, or anything else to comply with.  I
 could have done some welding on the body and put a carb or new EFI on the
 engine (it had the original TBFI set up which was not particularly good) to
 get more power and better running, and have the truck, but I guess I really
 did not need it for anything other than a project, of which I have plenty.
 I did like that truck though, it was very agricultural and the 4WD would
 crawl up the side of the house.

 --R


 On 12/6/14 8:14 PM, Tim Crone wrote:


 On Dec 6, 2014 12:16 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I got a built-up 350 in the garage, that would work.

 Wait, what?  Did you lose a car?  Forgive me if I'm way behind.

 Best,
 Tim


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[MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes


I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since the 
cable company can run tv and internet over the same cable in the 
house, is there a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and put 
that in the coax with the internet?


I assume this would be in the cable junction box attached to the 
outside of the house or after the coax comes out of the junction box.


If this can be done, it would simplify trying to get a second TV running.

The new tv is running on a coax that I ran directly to the tv from 
the antenna.  There is a cable coax and the antenna coax at that tv, 
so that might be a place to connect the two without adding another 
coathanger antenna.


I am planning to put a coathanger antenna outside to run the second 
tv, but I think it is possible to add an amplifier to the coax from 
the existing attic antenna and then feed the whole cable system.


We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot of 
cat 5 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)


I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but 
that does not work.  I assume that if a signal amp was added at the 
first coax joint, then it may be possible to run multiple tv sets 
from one MAKE coathanger antenna.


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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Why not use the cat 5 (or wireless) for your internet, and use the cable
for the OTA TV signal?  Coax cable with internet gets converted at a modem,
no?  Locate the modem as close to the entry point to the house as possible,
break the coax at that point, run new coax from outside antenna to break
point, amplify and send on to rest of house.  At the cable modem, connect
either ethernet router or wireless router (or both).
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
 On Dec 7, 2014 1:06 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:


 I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since the cable
 company can run tv and internet over the same cable in the house, is there
 a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and put that in the coax with the
 internet?

 I assume this would be in the cable junction box attached to the outside
 of the house or after the coax comes out of the junction box.

 If this can be done, it would simplify trying to get a second TV running.

 The new tv is running on a coax that I ran directly to the tv from the
 antenna.  There is a cable coax and the antenna coax at that tv, so that
 might be a place to connect the two without adding another coathanger
 antenna.

 I am planning to put a coathanger antenna outside to run the second tv,
 but I think it is possible to add an amplifier to the coax from the
 existing attic antenna and then feed the whole cable system.

 We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot of cat 5
 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)

 I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but that
 does not work.  I assume that if a signal amp was added at the first coax
 joint, then it may be possible to run multiple tv sets from one MAKE
 coathanger antenna.

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
The coax enters at one end of the house, and the cable modem is at 
the other end.
However, it is possible to run a new coax cable from the cable 
junction box to the modem.
I'd have to run another cat 5 across the house too, and get another 
ethernet switch.  And then I'd have to get a signal amp and run it 
also.








Why not use the cat 5 (or wireless) for your internet, and use the cable
for the OTA TV signal?  Coax cable with internet gets converted at a modem,
no?  Locate the modem as close to the entry point to the house as possible,
break the coax at that point, run new coax from outside antenna to break
point, amplify and send on to rest of house.  At the cable modem, connect
either ethernet router or wireless router (or both).
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
 On Dec 7, 2014 1:06 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:



 I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since the cable
 company can run tv and internet over the same cable in the house, is there
 a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and put that in the coax with the
 internet?

 I assume this would be in the cable junction box attached to the outside
 of the house or after the coax comes out of the junction box.

 If this can be done, it would simplify trying to get a second TV running.

 The new tv is running on a coax that I ran directly to the tv from the
 antenna.  There is a cable coax and the antenna coax at that tv, so that
 might be a place to connect the two without adding another coathanger
 antenna.

 I am planning to put a coathanger antenna outside to run the second tv,
 but I think it is possible to add an amplifier to the coax from the
 existing attic antenna and then feed the whole cable system.

 We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot of cat 5
 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)

 I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but that
 does not work.  I assume that if a signal amp was added at the first coax
 joint, then it may be possible to run multiple tv sets from one MAKE
 coathanger antenna.

 ___
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 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
I don't think that would work -- you would probably bugger up whatever 
the cableco is running over the coax, so you will need to separate the 
cableco stuff from the antenna stuff.


--R
On 12/7/14 2:19 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Why not use the cat 5 (or wireless) for your internet, and use the cable
for the OTA TV signal?  Coax cable with internet gets converted at a modem,
no?  Locate the modem as close to the entry point to the house as possible,
break the coax at that point, run new coax from outside antenna to break
point, amplify and send on to rest of house.  At the cable modem, connect
either ethernet router or wireless router (or both).
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
  On Dec 7, 2014 1:06 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:


I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since the cable
company can run tv and internet over the same cable in the house, is there
a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and put that in the coax with the
internet?

I assume this would be in the cable junction box attached to the outside
of the house or after the coax comes out of the junction box.

If this can be done, it would simplify trying to get a second TV running.

The new tv is running on a coax that I ran directly to the tv from the
antenna.  There is a cable coax and the antenna coax at that tv, so that
might be a place to connect the two without adding another coathanger
antenna.

I am planning to put a coathanger antenna outside to run the second tv,
but I think it is possible to add an amplifier to the coax from the
existing attic antenna and then feed the whole cable system.

We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot of cat 5
so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)

I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but that
does not work.  I assume that if a signal amp was added at the first coax
joint, then it may be possible to run multiple tv sets from one MAKE
coathanger antenna.

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[MBZ] Fw: OT - Another non-political B-52 tale - MOVING IN THE BUFF

2014-12-07 Thread Addison Thompson via Mercedes
Wilton,
I think that not only has the statute of limitations expired on the windshield, 
the truck itself has expired (a lg time ago)  ;-)
Regards,
Addison

From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
Subject: [MBZ] Fw: OT - Another non-political B-52 tale - MOVING IN THE BUFF
Date: December 6, 2014 2:50:31 PM PST
To: mercedes list mercedes@okiebenz.com

BTW, Addison, has the statute of limitations expired on that windshield?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
I don't think that would work -- you would probably bugger up 
whatever the cableco is running over the coax, so you will need to 
separate the cableco stuff from the antenna stuff.


--R


Ok thanks.  I thought maybe there was a filter that could be used at 
the demark to keep the antenna off the cableco coax, but still feed 
it within the house.


Max's suggestion may be the best.

The reservation I have about that is that what I found before was 
that if the cable was not continuous from the antenna to the tv, the 
signal was lost.  Even one splitter or coupling was enough to lose 
the signal.  I am not sure a signal amp would prevent that with the 
digital signal.


Back in the flat cable days, an antenna signal amp/splitter, and I 
could run flat cable all over the house.


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Re: [MBZ] Fw: OT - Another non-political B-52 tale - MOVING IN THE BUFF

2014-12-07 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes
Great story, Wilton!  I think, given my druthers, I'd rather see BUFFs
hauling furniture than fissionables, but it IS an imperfect world, alas.

Once again, thanks to you and all servicemen past and present!  (raises a
glass)

-MMM-
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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
I've got sort of a similar situation with my new addition. I ran coax to 
the bedroom and kitchen to hook up a new antenna I will put up, and ran 
it sorta where the drop from the antenna will be.  I was going to put in 
a 2 or 3-way distribution with an amp to feed the new stuff of the 
antenna and maybe another bedroom.  I'll have to study on that, or if 
you figure it out let me know.  I don't have cable or sat, but did get 
Uverse installed for the internet and phone, they keep trying to get me 
to sign up for TV but I have no interest in it with Netflix and Amazon 
Prime over wi-fi and the OTA TV.


--R


On 12/7/14 2:58 PM, Curly McLain wrote:
I don't think that would work -- you would probably bugger up 
whatever the cableco is running over the coax, so you will need to 
separate the cableco stuff from the antenna stuff.


--R


Ok thanks.  I thought maybe there was a filter that could be used at 
the demark to keep the antenna off the cableco coax, but still feed it 
within the house.


Max's suggestion may be the best.

The reservation I have about that is that what I found before was that 
if the cable was not continuous from the antenna to the tv, the signal 
was lost.  Even one splitter or coupling was enough to lose the 
signal.  I am not sure a signal amp would prevent that with the 
digital signal.


Back in the flat cable days, an antenna signal amp/splitter, and I 
could run flat cable all over the house.





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Re: [MBZ] AT Does not engage 1st

2014-12-07 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Larry I will refrain from another of my M1 ATF saved my life Testimonials
but since i have the same car here is my experience.  It had 129k on it
when i bought it 9 years ago. Shifted a lttle rough with delays. Put M1 ATF
in it  then changed it 90k miles later to another fill of M1. Now has 243k
 shifts like new on orig tranny. I do drive it for 2 long commutes but if
traffic is bad then it is stop  go. YMMV.  Dwight.
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[MBZ] way OT - fence charger repair

2014-12-07 Thread David Kristin Gilmore via Mercedes
 Gentlemen, thank you for your responses!  You are educating an old 
farmer, which has to be a good thing.


  No, the fuse does not  blow when the mystery part is not 
installed.   It is in series with the the 110 volt hot line to the 
transformer.


  I tried connecting the line from the fuse straight to the 
transformer - the charger clicked a couple times and then quit. (When 
working right it clicks about every second when it sends a pulse.)  The 
fuse is still good. My meter shows 116 volts going to the transformer.  
So I guess something else is wrong.  No new burned things evident.


 My reading on the farming/fencing sites suggests the five years I 
have got out of this machine is about par.  I think I will just get 
another and keep this one for parts.  I am inclined toward one of the 
Zareba models sold locally by Tractor Supply.  They have a decent 
reputation and will provide schematics and parts to regular people.  
Thanks again.  Y'all are still welcome to beer and sweetcorn next 
summer.  And I almost  forgot to mention ramps!  You need to come by in 
the first two weeks of April for them!  4WD a good idea at that time of 
year.


 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV


 Cato suggested that women would live long, healthy lives if they 
washed their genitals in the urine of a cabbage eater.


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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Rich,

I saw the cheapest 75 to 300 ohm antenna converters on fleabay are 
$4.  Lowes has them for $4 with no wait.  Coax, however is a 
different story.   $15 for 50' at lowes, and under 8 bucks on fleabay.


Amp $20 at lowes.  $17 for the lease expensive 4 output (Same) on 
fleabay.  not much saving there.


My plan is to cut the coax in the basement near where it comes in 
comes in.  The end going outside will get hooked to the modem in the 
new location.  The other end will get hooked to the antenna coming in 
via an amp.Run a cat 5 from the existing switch there to the 
switch/wireless router across the house and leave it where it is in 
what we used to use as a computer room.


I put the antenna up today, and tried hooking it to the new tv.  Got 
most of the same channels.  Probably need to aim the antenna to get 
all stations the same.  Was about ready to bore the hole through the 
wall when it got dark and started to rain.  So that will have to wait.






I've got sort of a similar situation with my new addition. I ran 
coax to the bedroom and kitchen to hook up a new antenna I will put 
up, and ran it sorta where the drop from the antenna will be.  I was 
going to put in a 2 or 3-way distribution with an amp to feed the 
new stuff of the antenna and maybe another bedroom.  I'll have to 
study on that, or if you figure it out let me know.  I don't have 
cable or sat, but did get Uverse installed for the internet and 
phone, they keep trying to get me to sign up for TV but I have no 
interest in it with Netflix and Amazon Prime over wi-fi and the OTA 
TV.


--R


On 12/7/14 2:58 PM, Curly McLain wrote:
I don't think that would work -- you would probably bugger up 
whatever the cableco is running over the coax, so you will need to 
separate the cableco stuff from the antenna stuff.


--R


Ok thanks.  I thought maybe there was a filter that could be used 
at the demark to keep the antenna off the cableco coax, but still 
feed it within the house.


Max's suggestion may be the best.

The reservation I have about that is that what I found before was 
that if the cable was not continuous from the antenna to the tv, 
the signal was lost.  Even one splitter or coupling was enough to 
lose the signal.  I am not sure a signal amp would prevent that 
with the digital signal.


Back in the flat cable days, an antenna signal amp/splitter, and I 
could run flat cable all over the house.





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Re: [MBZ] way OT - fence charger repair

2014-12-07 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
What kind of fence (how high) do you electrify that keeps the deer out of
the corn? Around here they laugh as they jump over the fences. Do you
electrify the entire fence or just the top?

On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 5:41 PM, David  Kristin Gilmore via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


  My reading on the farming/fencing sites suggests the five years I
 have got out of this machine is about par.  I think I will just get another
 and keep this one for parts.  I am inclined toward one of the Zareba models
 sold locally by Tractor Supply.  They have a decent reputation and will
 provide schematics and parts to regular people.  Thanks again.  Y'all are
 still welcome to beer and sweetcorn next summer.  And I almost  forgot to
 mention ramps!  You need to come by in the first two weeks of April for
 them!  4WD a good idea at that time of year.

  Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV


-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread Russ Williams via Mercedes
Cable company here (Cox) and ATT U-verse around here puts a filter on 
the the line that runs into the house if you
don't  subscribe to TV service. This is supposed to block the TV signal. 
I have two friends that have Cox internet and
no tv service. One gets Basic TV thru his the other gets most of the 
expanded basic channels on his. The one business

client that I have that has U-Verse can't get any tv channels.
My advice is to take the coax that goes to your modem and hook it up to 
a tv set and see if you get any stations.
This will save you the trouble of cutting the inbound cable ans doing 
all the wiring and find out that the tv signal is blocked.
BTW don't get the bright idea of going into the de-mark box and removing 
the filter unless up want to pay a healthy fine

from the cable company for theft of services.

Russ W.

On Sun,12/7/14 12:06, Curly McLain via Mercedes wrote:


I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since the 
cable company can run tv and internet over the same cable in the 
house, is there a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and put that 
in the coax with the internet?


I assume this would be in the cable junction box attached to the 
outside of the house or after the coax comes out of the junction box.


If this can be done, it would simplify trying to get a second TV running.

The new tv is running on a coax that I ran directly to the tv from the 
antenna.  There is a cable coax and the antenna coax at that tv, so 
that might be a place to connect the two without adding another 
coathanger antenna.


I am planning to put a coathanger antenna outside to run the second 
tv, but I think it is possible to add an amplifier to the coax from 
the existing attic antenna and then feed the whole cable system.


We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot of 
cat 5 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)


I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but that 
does not work.  I assume that if a signal amp was added at the first 
coax joint, then it may be possible to run multiple tv sets from one 
MAKE coathanger antenna.


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4235/8696 - Release Date: 12/07/14






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[MBZ] OT: OTA TV Question

2014-12-07 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
I am right between Chicago and South Bend. I need two antennas to receive 
broadcasts from both cities. Can I use a coax splitter as a combiner? I have 
looked for a combiner and I can't seem to find one. ‎

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10

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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 
 I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since
 the cable company can run tv and internet over the same cable in
 the house, is there a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and
 put that in the coax with the internet?

Technically - yes.  Practically - probably not.


 We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot
 of cat 5 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)

Is all that coax connected to a distribution system - 
Amps/splitters/taps/etc?   If so, you should be able to feed the
antenna into the input of the distribution and have it show up
everywhere.

Or does it at least all home run to/from  one location?  If so,
you could still feed the antenna to this hub location but only
hook up the lines you are using.

 I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but 
 that does not work.  

 The reservation I have about that is that what I found before was 
 that if the cable was not continuous from the antenna to the tv,
 the signal was lost.  Even one splitter or coupling was enough to
 lose the signal.  I am not sure a signal amp would prevent that
 with the digital signal.

That doesn't make sense... A connector shouldn't degrade the signal
_that_ much.  A splitter should decrease the signal strength at the
TV by 3 dB - which isn't very much.

A small amp is typically 7-12 dB which should be more than enough
to compensate for the splitter losses.

Oh - and the best place for the amp is as close to the antenna as
you can practically put it.

 Back in the flat cable days, an antenna signal amp/splitter, and
 I could run flat cable all over the house.

That can be done with coax too.  Coax has higher loss per foot than
twin-lead - but coax is much less susceptible losses caused by
nearby metal.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: OTA TV Question

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 I am right between Chicago and South Bend. I need two antennas to
 receive broadcasts from both cities. Can I use a coax splitter as
 a combiner? I have looked for a combiner and I can't seem to find
 one. ‎

No.

If there are no channel overlaps, it seems might work.  From a
electron point of view, a splitter is also a combiner.

But I know that if I wanted to add one channel to an existing
stream it requires a channel inserter to work right.  Just a
splitter/combiner won't do.

But splitters are cheap - so you could try it anyway.  A switch -
or an antenna rotor will fix you up.

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Re: [MBZ] Sat morning fun

2014-12-07 Thread LarryT via Mercedes

Thanks Fred-
I'll find some!   I also want to be sure I'm not overlooking the obvious 
- i.e., any device that operates a kick-down function will do so for 
_any _up-shift and not just a 1-2 shift, right?


Thx again,
LarryT
91 300D


On 12/6/2014 10:58 AM, Fred Moir via Mercedes wrote:

Rich.Me too!I visited Rudesheim an Rhein in 1961 as a student, fond memories of 
Halgarten's hospitality.
Jeez, but I'm getting olde.
Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.


Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 10:49:41 -0500
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sat morning fun
From: mercedes@okiebenz.com

I want this.  Badly.  I don't know why but I want it.  Badly.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: OTA TV Question

2014-12-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
I have a similar situation.  to get the stations available, I need 2 
antennas aimed in different directions.  I suspect if we just hook 
the two antenna together with 300 ohm flat cable, it will work.


I am right between Chicago and South Bend. I need two antennas to 
receive broadcasts from both cities. Can I use a coax splitter as a 
combiner? I have looked for a combiner and I can't seem to find one.


Rick
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10


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Re: [MBZ] OT: OTA TV Question

2014-12-07 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
There are such things, look on Amazon. 

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Dec 7, 2014, at 10:59 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

I have a similar situation.  to get the stations available, I need 2 antennas 
aimed in different directions.  I suspect if we just hook the two antenna 
together with 300 ohm flat cable, it will work.

 I am right between Chicago and South Bend. I need two antennas to receive 
 broadcasts from both cities. Can I use a coax splitter as a combiner? I have 
 looked for a combiner and I can't seem to find one.
 
 Rick
 Sent from my BlackBerry Z10

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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 I saw the cheapest 75 to 300 ohm antenna converters on fleabay
 are $4.  Lowes has them for $4 with no wait.  Coax, however is a 
 different story.   $15 for 50' at lowes, and under 8 bucks on
 fleabay.
 
 Amp $20 at lowes.  $17 for the lease expensive 4 output (Same) on 
 fleabay.  not much saving there.

Take a look at MCM.  Product is usually reasonable, service has
been good, prices are decent.

http://mcmelectronics.com

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/30-2570
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/30-2167
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/33-4035
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/24-14605
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/33-2187

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