Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-28 Thread Rolf
Schade. Take the Turbo off and send it back. That RVT gets in the head 
and smoking is the start of your problems.


Did they really paint the exhaust housing?

-Rolf


On 3/16/2012 11:39 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Photo of the new turbo hanging in place and one showing the missing stud.
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-20 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I prefer loctite 518 for my sealing needs.

Walt
On Mar 19, 2012 11:42 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities.  as in put a
 little on your finger and rub it on the surface.  It takes almost none to
 work well.   I have seen frod dealers smear way too much black RTV on
 everything in sight.

 Many times the blue goo has bailed me out when I needed an extra hand to
 hold a gasket in place, or didn't have a gasket.

 I never liked the red stuff because it is not as easy to just rub on a
 minuscule amount.  The good Dr. Booth didn't like any, and on MBs, I rarely
 use any.  I disagree on an outright ban on silicon based sealants.


  Marshall always said not to use that stuff.  Guess he was right again.
 Thanx for pics.

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-bounces@**
 okiebenz.com mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Dieselhead
 Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

 More followup:

 The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
 still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
 What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
 turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.

 I know there is intelligent life in Arkieland, but there sure are
 some stupid ones too.  (Car was from Arkieland)
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-20 Thread Mitch Haley

Dieselhead wrote:
I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities.  as in put a 
little on your finger and rub it on the surface.  It takes almost none 
to work well.   I have seen frod dealers smear way too much black RTV on 
everything in sight.


Many times the blue goo has bailed me out when I needed an extra hand 
to hold a gasket in place, or didn't have a gasket.


I never liked the red stuff because it is not as easy to just rub on a 
minuscule amount.  The good Dr. Booth didn't like any, and on MBs, I 
rarely use any.  I disagree on an outright ban on silicon based sealants.


There is little on an MB that I believe silicone can do better than Hylomar, but 
gasket positioning might be included, I haven't really compared the temporary 
adhesive ability of Hylomar vs uncured silicone.


The only high volume practicing mechanic I can recall posting here on the 
subject, John Berrymann, claimed that his comeback percentage on head gaskets 
dropped to zero after he began dressing head gaskets with minuscule amounts of 
Hylomar. I'm reasonably sure that you could not look at an engine he'd worked on 
and tell from sight whether there was any Hylomar in there.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-20 Thread Scott Ritchey
FWIW, Hylomar worked well on a leaking Yanmar head gasket (1-lung marine
motor) I replaced 6-8 years ago.  Hylomar will not fill big gaps but you
better not have big gaps on a Diesel head (I had mine planed before
reinstall).  Just one data point.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 8:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

Dieselhead wrote:
 I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities.  as in put a 
 little on your finger and rub it on the surface.  It takes almost none 
 to work well.   I have seen frod dealers smear way too much black RTV on 
 everything in sight.
 
 Many times the blue goo has bailed me out when I needed an extra hand 
 to hold a gasket in place, or didn't have a gasket.
 
 I never liked the red stuff because it is not as easy to just rub on a 
 minuscule amount.  The good Dr. Booth didn't like any, and on MBs, I 
 rarely use any.  I disagree on an outright ban on silicon based sealants.

There is little on an MB that I believe silicone can do better than Hylomar,
but 
gasket positioning might be included, I haven't really compared the
temporary 
adhesive ability of Hylomar vs uncured silicone.

The only high volume practicing mechanic I can recall posting here on the 
subject, John Berrymann, claimed that his comeback percentage on head
gaskets 
dropped to zero after he began dressing head gaskets with minuscule amounts
of 
Hylomar. I'm reasonably sure that you could not look at an engine he'd
worked on 
and tell from sight whether there was any Hylomar in there.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Dieselhead

Photo of the new turbo hanging in place and one showing the missing stud.
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Dieselhead

More followup:

The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk. 
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off. 
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the 
turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.


I know there is intelligent life in Arkieland, but there sure are 
some stupid ones too.  (Car was from Arkieland)

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Craig
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 22:34:34 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 More followup:
 
 The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk. 
 still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off. 
 What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the 
 turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.

What is the scale of the closeup picture? A ruler, or even a thumb, in
the picture would have helped.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Dieselhead

Bolt holes are 8mm.  top to bottom of the machined surface is maybe 2 

I don't write manuals.  I don't have a photographer standing by.  You 
are lucky that I think enough of y'all to try to clean up and take a 
few pitchurs   ; )


I admit it would be nice to have a good writeup with pictures,  but 
when I am covered with black Diesel crankcase oil mixed with road 
dirt, I am not much in the mood for photography.


I found precious little to go by, so there is a need for a good manual.


On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 22:34:34 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 More followup:

 The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
 still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
 What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
 turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.


What is the scale of the closeup picture? A ruler, or even a thumb, in
the picture would have helped.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Scott Ritchey
Marshall always said not to use that stuff.  Guess he was right again.
Thanx for pics.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

More followup:

The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk. 
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off. 
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the 
turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.

I know there is intelligent life in Arkieland, but there sure are 
some stupid ones too.  (Car was from Arkieland)
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Peter Frederick
Silicone sealant in places where it should not be used is a sign of a  
very poor mechanic.  My buddy the MB guy rejected a rebuilt 420 once,  
had orange silicone all over.  He refused to install it, said it was  
an absolute certainty that nothing was right with it.  Cost $4500, too.


There is no need to use ANY sealant on that gasket.  It's probably  
like the one for my brother's 75 300D -- comes from the factory with  
adhesive on both sides protected by silicone release paper.  Peel,  
stick, and tighten, that's all, but some genius decided half a tube  
of RTV was necessary instead.  Of course, it all squeezed out into  
the oil line, and piled up on the feed orifice and starved the turbo  
of oil, so it failed in short order.


There are only a few places on any MB engine that I know of that use  
RTV -- upper pan on some models (not the 603, it has a gasket), upper  
chain case cover on the M103, occasional covers for things.  Almost  
always black RTV in a very small (1/8 or less bead) amount on  
machined surfaces, never on gaskets of any kind.  Only other sealant  
used is permatex paint-on stuff for thermostat housings on older  
engines.  Newer ones have o-ring seals, no sealant required.


Peter

On Mar 19, 2012, at 9:55 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:


Marshall always said not to use that stuff.  Guess he was right again.
Thanx for pics.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes- 
boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

More followup:

The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.

I know there is intelligent life in Arkieland, but there sure are
some stupid ones too.  (Car was from Arkieland)
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-19 Thread Dieselhead
I have been a fan of the blue permatex in small quantities.  as in 
put a little on your finger and rub it on the surface.  It takes 
almost none to work well.   I have seen frod dealers smear way too 
much black RTV on everything in sight.


Many times the blue goo has bailed me out when I needed an extra 
hand to hold a gasket in place, or didn't have a gasket.


I never liked the red stuff because it is not as easy to just rub on 
a minuscule amount.  The good Dr. Booth didn't like any, and on MBs, 
I rarely use any.  I disagree on an outright ban on silicon based 
sealants.




Marshall always said not to use that stuff.  Guess he was right again.
Thanx for pics.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:35 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

More followup:

The photo shows how obstructed the oil passage was with red RTV gunk.
still a lot of RTV on the turbo after I pulled a massive amount off.
What I pulled off can be seen in the background of the photo with the
turbo.  The other photo is a closup of the rtv I pulled off.

I know there is intelligent life in Arkieland, but there sure are
some stupid ones too.  (Car was from Arkieland)
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-17 Thread Rolf
Oil gets in compressor naturally from oil breather in head. The oil feed 
pipe runs right over the exhaust and I've had one break there dripping 
on exhaust. Haven't really kept up with the thread, sorry.


It's a shame I just sold my old one for $80 on ebay :(.

The euro manifolds (sans egr) can be had for not that much money and do 
wonders for the looks of the engine bay :D


-Rolf

On 3/16/2012 10:23 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
How would you get oil in the compressor if the oil feed was leaking? 
It accounts for leaking outside the turbo, but not oil inside the turbo.


Anyhow, I had it just about done by noon, then found a tin ring on the 
ground.  Figured out it must have been inside the flex coupling 
between the turbo and exhaust pipe flange.  So I took the tail apart 
and slid the ring in.  The last bolt was the inner bolt for the hanger 
at the back of the turbo (not the one behind that that supports the 
exhaust flange).  It took me hours to get it in. finally got it by 
loosening everything more, and taking the bracket loose from the 
manifold.  The inside nut on the bracket to the manifold is a bugger too.


I robbed a allen capscrew from the EGR to bolt the turbo to the 
football eliminator pipe.  That kept me going without having to run 
out and find a bolt to buy.  Since I forgot the EGR eliminator kit, I 
got a 3/4 copper sweat coupling, sawed through it lengthwise, 
unwrapped it and flattened it, then held it to the ERG nipple on the 
football eliminator pipe while I scribed a mark.  Oh, I annealed it as 
described on here a few months ago.  Then I cut out the circle with 
tinsnips, tapped around the edges holding it to the manifold nipple 
and then clamped it on.  One half of the EGR eliminated.  I went out 
and bought a bolt, then used the remaining chunk of copper to use as a 
gasket/plate under the EGR.  That blocked the other side of the EGR, 
but still left the EGR hanging.  Not pretty, but functional until I 
get the plate attached to the engine on the next trip.


Changed the serpentine belt, and took it for a road test.  Lots of 
smoke at startup, and heavy smoking at low speeds.  At one stoplight, 
smoke was coming out from under the hood and being drawn into the 
interior ventilation.


got to to stoplight highways and that gave me a chance to spool up the 
turbo several times, with much smoke.  then onto the interstate, 
laying down a smokescreen that would make a destroyer skipper proud. 
Out on the interstate for 5 miles cleaned out a lot.  Up to 80. Then 
took an exit, got off drove around and then back on with it floored. 
That laid a really good smokescreen down.  Had it close to 80 at the 
top of the ramp.  That was the last smoke I saw.  drove back along 
stoplight highway.  I could not see any smoke when i floored it on 
takeoff.


After I got back, there was no oil dripping and everything seemed 
good, so I packed up the tools and started to get ready for the trip 
home.


(1987 300SDL)



Oil in compressor is from intake not turbo. Did you verify its not 
the supply line?

--
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to 
rewind on my commodore 64.


Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?

Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
of seal failure?

Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
below. What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



***prior post***

I think I am on to something. With the crossover off, the insides
are abnormally clean. Like a complete M1 wash. No gunk, no black,
except where oil has pooled a little.

Started up the engine. when I revved up the engine enough so that
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of
the throat. if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away
the oil.

It is not enough to get a bath. I am suspecting that what I am
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke,
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.

My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil. Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic. This
is not. But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge? Les Blumner had a
source that was something like $80. I have seen $250.




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-17 Thread Randy Bennell

But is that what caused it? Sealant plugging the oil passage?

Randy

On 16/03/2012 5:40 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and it 
broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.


Peter


On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in 
and plugged an oil passage???


Randy




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-17 Thread Peter Frederick
Big blob of orange silicone sealant in the oil passage at the spun  
bearing.


Peter

On Mar 17, 2012, at 2:06 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:


But is that what caused it? Sealant plugging the oil passage?

Randy

On 16/03/2012 5:40 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and  
it broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.


Peter


On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked  
in and plugged an oil passage???


Randy




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-16 Thread Randy Bennell
So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in and 
plugged an oil passage???


Randy

On 15/03/2012 6:16 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage like 
it was on my brother's 75 300D.


Peter

On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on top 
or from underneath.  So you have to take the football (trap oxidizer) 
elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway.  It would have been a lot 
easier to do that in the first place.


Oil leak found:  the oil supply pipe was loose on the turbo.  Could 
spin the 6mm allen wrench stem with my fingers.  Not even finger 
tight.  the upper drain fitting was also loose.  the bottom drain 
fitting to the block was snug, but not tight.


May have been a used or rebuilt turbo.  I found evidence such as way 
too long bolts in the mounting.  I found a partial cause of death. 
the oil supply was maybe 2/3 obstructed with red RTV crap.  A sure 
sign someone was in there buggering things up  (english technical 
term for Fred)


Sure is strange that there are no pdfs for this job on the cd or 
online.  It is not uncommon.


1987 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably 
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the 
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big 
deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with 
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If 
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the 
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing 
the turbo?


Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the 
turbo?


The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need 
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until 
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive 
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.





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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-16 Thread Peter Frederick
Starved the #2 main and #2 crankpin of oil, scored the crank, and it  
broke on the highway doing 60, trashed the engine.


Peter


On Mar 16, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

So, what happened to your brother's 300D? RTV sealant got sucked in  
and plugged an oil passage???


Randy

On 15/03/2012 6:16 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage  
like it was on my brother's 75 300D.


Peter

On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on  
top or from underneath.  So you have to take the football (trap  
oxidizer) elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway.  It would have  
been a lot easier to do that in the first place.


Oil leak found:  the oil supply pipe was loose on the turbo.   
Could spin the 6mm allen wrench stem with my fingers.  Not even  
finger tight.  the upper drain fitting was also loose.  the  
bottom drain fitting to the block was snug, but not tight.


May have been a used or rebuilt turbo.  I found evidence such as  
way too long bolts in the mounting.  I found a partial cause of  
death. the oil supply was maybe 2/3 obstructed with red RTV  
crap.  A sure sign someone was in there buggering things up   
(english technical term for Fred)


Sure is strange that there are no pdfs for this job on the cd or  
online.  It is not uncommon.


1987 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will  
probably need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line  
to the bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.   
Not a big deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts  
with strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or  
the turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain  
getting plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.   
If the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the  
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when  
replacing the turbo?


Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out  
the turbo?


The * forum had a post where someone said taking off  
the cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and  
stopped oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone  
until I have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be  
weeks or months until it gets finished because of the distance  
involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(?  
gaskets? hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I  
need to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess  
until another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo  
failure. Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive  
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it  
oil under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/ 
compressor housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft,  
but if the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth  
seals would get chewed too and might let oil into the  
compressor section.





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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-16 Thread Dieselhead
How would you get oil in the compressor if the oil feed was leaking? 
It accounts for leaking outside the turbo, but not oil inside the 
turbo.


Anyhow, I had it just about done by noon, then found a tin ring on 
the ground.  Figured out it must have been inside the flex coupling 
between the turbo and exhaust pipe flange.  So I took the tail apart 
and slid the ring in.  The last bolt was the inner bolt for the 
hanger at the back of the turbo (not the one behind that that 
supports the exhaust flange).  It took me hours to get it in. 
finally got it by loosening everything more, and taking the bracket 
loose from the manifold.  The inside nut on the bracket to the 
manifold is a bugger too.


I robbed a allen capscrew from the EGR to bolt the turbo to the 
football eliminator pipe.  That kept me going without having to run 
out and find a bolt to buy.  Since I forgot the EGR eliminator kit, I 
got a 3/4 copper sweat coupling, sawed through it lengthwise, 
unwrapped it and flattened it, then held it to the ERG nipple on the 
football eliminator pipe while I scribed a mark.  Oh, I annealed it 
as described on here a few months ago.  Then I cut out the circle 
with tinsnips, tapped around the edges holding it to the manifold 
nipple and then clamped it on.  One half of the EGR eliminated.  I 
went out and bought a bolt, then used the remaining chunk of copper 
to use as a gasket/plate under the EGR.  That blocked the other side 
of the EGR, but still left the EGR hanging.  Not pretty, but 
functional until I get the plate attached to the engine on the next 
trip.


Changed the serpentine belt, and took it for a road test.  Lots of 
smoke at startup, and heavy smoking at low speeds.  At one stoplight, 
smoke was coming out from under the hood and being drawn into the 
interior ventilation.


got to to stoplight highways and that gave me a chance to spool up 
the turbo several times, with much smoke.  then onto the interstate, 
laying down a smokescreen that would make a destroyer skipper proud. 
Out on the interstate for 5 miles cleaned out a lot.  Up to 80. Then 
took an exit, got off drove around and then back on with it floored. 
That laid a really good smokescreen down.  Had it close to 80 at the 
top of the ramp.  That was the last smoke I saw.  drove back along 
stoplight highway.  I could not see any smoke when i floored it on 
takeoff.


After I got back, there was no oil dripping and everything seemed 
good, so I packed up the tools and started to get ready for the trip 
home.


(1987 300SDL)



Oil in compressor is from intake not turbo. Did you verify its not 
the supply line?

--
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to 
rewind on my commodore 64.


Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?

Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
of seal failure?

Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
below. What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



***prior post***

I think I am on to something. With the crossover off, the insides
are abnormally clean. Like a complete M1 wash. No gunk, no black,
except where oil has pooled a little.

Started up the engine. when I revved up the engine enough so that
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of
the throat. if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away
the oil.

It is not enough to get a bath. I am suspecting that what I am
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke,
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.

My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil. Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic. This
is not. But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge? Les Blumner had a
source that was something like $80. I have seen $250.




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Brian Toscano
Oh the trap oxidizer replacement pipe = football replacement. :-)



On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 11:46 PM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Actually, only the 86 West coast 603's had the football trap oxidizer. All
 87's had them.

 John

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  This is a 603, not a 617.  All US 603s had a football smog crap over
 the top of the exhaust manifold.  This caused problems, and led to an
 extended warranty, where the stealer would replace the football with a
 pipe, and replace the trashed turbo if the football was not replaced before
 it trashed the turbo.
 
  Actually, Andrew's 85 Collyfawnia TD had a football on the 617.
 
  On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
  brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Dieselhead
Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on top 
or from underneath.  So you have to take the football (trap oxidizer) 
elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway.  It would have been a lot 
easier to do that in the first place.


Oil leak found:  the oil supply pipe was loose on the turbo.  Could 
spin the 6mm allen wrench stem with my fingers.  Not even finger 
tight.  the upper drain fitting was also loose.  the bottom drain 
fitting to the block was snug, but not tight.


May have been a used or rebuilt turbo.  I found evidence such as way 
too long bolts in the mounting.  I found a partial cause of death. 
the oil supply was maybe 2/3 obstructed with red RTV crap.  A sure 
sign someone was in there buggering things up  (english technical 
term for Fred)


Sure is strange that there are no pdfs for this job on the cd or 
online.  It is not uncommon.


1987 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably 
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the 
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big 
deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with 
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If 
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the 
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need 
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until 
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive 
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Max
Was the RTV clogging due to use somewhere else, or locally?

Getting a complete unit to replace the dead certainly was the right call.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Peter Frederick
At least it was just the turbo, and not the #2 main oil passage like  
it was on my brother's 75 300D.


Peter

On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Once I got the turbo loose, there was no way it was coming out on  
top or from underneath.  So you have to take the football (trap  
oxidizer) elimination pipe and the EGR out anyway.  It would have  
been a lot easier to do that in the first place.


Oil leak found:  the oil supply pipe was loose on the turbo.  Could  
spin the 6mm allen wrench stem with my fingers.  Not even finger  
tight.  the upper drain fitting was also loose.  the bottom drain  
fitting to the block was snug, but not tight.


May have been a used or rebuilt turbo.  I found evidence such as  
way too long bolts in the mounting.  I found a partial cause of  
death. the oil supply was maybe 2/3 obstructed with red RTV crap.   
A sure sign someone was in there buggering things up  (english  
technical term for Fred)


Sure is strange that there are no pdfs for this job on the cd or  
online.  It is not uncommon.


1987 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will  
probably need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line  
to the bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.   
Not a big deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with  
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or  
the turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain  
getting plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If  
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the  
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing  
the turbo?


Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the  
turbo?


The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the  
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and  
stopped oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until  
I have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks  
or months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(?  
gaskets? hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I  
need to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess  
until another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo  
failure. Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive  
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it  
oil under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor  
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but  
if the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth  
seals would get chewed too and might let oil into the  
compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Dieselhead
  on the gasket for the supply line.  glued down to the turbo only, 
with great excess.


Fortunately all my other 603 were apparently un- messed with.  un-buggered up.

Will post more observations when I actually pull it out of the car. 
I have to take loose one bracket hung on the exhaust manifold.


I quit to try to track down the buggered up buggering UPS  (UFUPS) 
They got the turbo on the truck at 6 am this morning for delivery.


they usually don't show here until about 5 PM.  the moron took it 
back to the shop with him.  Of course there is no way to phone them 
or to even find the address where the trucks originate from.  The 
address on Q's invoice is absolutely right.  The morons are just too 
lazy to deliver and too arrogant to let you talk to the local shed.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Brian Toscano
Check out the attachment for some factory procedures on turbochargers.



On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 5:28 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  on the gasket for the supply line.  glued down to the turbo only, with
 great excess.

 Fortunately all my other 603 were apparently un- messed with.  un-buggered
 up.

 Will post more observations when I actually pull it out of the car. I have
 to take loose one bracket hung on the exhaust manifold.

 I quit to try to track down the buggered up buggering UPS  (UFUPS) They
 got the turbo on the truck at 6 am this morning for delivery.

 they usually don't show here until about 5 PM.  the moron took it back to
 the shop with him.  Of course there is no way to phone them or to even find
 the address where the trucks originate from.  The address on Q's invoice is
 absolutely right.  The morons are just too lazy to deliver and too arrogant
 to let you talk to the local shed.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Dieselhead

You should not need to order parts more than once.  It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time.  The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble.  You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe.  It may also help to
remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to

work with.

Well, here is a case in point:

Got the turbo in,  unpacked it and looked it over.  There are 3 studs 
to mount it to the exhaust, and the whole thing  looks very nice. 
Came with metal gasket for the exhaust.  the old one had no gasket. 
Also has new gaskets for the oil supplu and the oil drain.  Very 
good!   The only thing is, that the old turbo has 4 studs to mount it 
to the football eliminator.  Yup!  I get a factory new short block 
completely missing one head bolt hole;  and I get a turbo with a 
missing stud.  Yes, I could try to pull a stud from the old turbo, 
and likely it would twist off because I don't have a flame wrench.  I 
could drive around trying to find someone who has a stud of the right 
thread and dimensions  (riiight!), I could order one from Q, or I 
could go to the stealer, have them order the wrong part, pay $25 
extra for a special order, then have to take it back etc. etc. 
Murphy is alive and well.


In this case, I will drive across town, buy an 8mm capscrew and be 
back in business with in 60 to 90 minutes.  But often I have to order 
something more from Q, and that generally takes a week.


I ended up having to take the muffler hangers off at the back to get 
the pipes apart.  the muffler hangers look bad., especially the one 
under the pass compartment.  More parts to order.


I have not checked out all the other stuff to see if there are other 
things I may need before the job is finished.  It got too dark 
tonight to get that done too.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Rolf
Oil in compressor is from intake not turbo. Did you verify its not the supply 
line?
-- 
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to rewind on my 
commodore 64.

Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is 
that right?

Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence 
of seal failure?

Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from 
below. What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



***prior post***

I think I am on to something. With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean. Like a complete M1 wash. No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.

Started up the engine. when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of 
the throat. if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away 
the oil.

It is not enough to get a bath. I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.

My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil. Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic. This 
is not. But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge? Les Blumner had a 
source that was something like $80. I have seen $250.




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Peter Frederick
I have decided I'm using part of my bonus this year to buy a rebuilt  
turbo for my 87 300D -- same symptoms (blue smoke on startup,  
excessive oil consumption (worse on the highway) and definitely  
lethargic turbo response when cold, all the same problems I had with  
the 85 Volvo TD when it's turbo went south.


Oil coming out the front of the turbo (as in still getting oil blown  
into the intake (with the crankase line removed) can ONLY be the  
front seal on the turbo.  Easy to check, just verify that the blowby  
isn't bad enough to use that much oil.  Mine has more than I would  
like, but not enough to lose a quart of oil in 500 miles!  Usually,  
there is oil leaking into the turbine side as well, and that burns in  
the exhaust making blue smoke.


Odometer just rolled over to 300,000 this week, and is at least  
60,000 miles short of true milage, maybe 70,000.  I'm not upset the  
trubo has gone south at nearly 400,000 miles.  Seems to have good  
compression, too, although I'm not too sure about the head  
replacement done before I got the car 5 years ago.


Peter
On Mar 15, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Rolf wrote:

Oil in compressor is from intake not turbo. Did you verify its not  
the supply line?

--
please excuse the delay in response, I had to wait for the tape to  
rewind on my commodore 64.


Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
that right?

Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
of seal failure?

Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL? Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
below. What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



***prior post***

I think I am on to something. With the crossover off, the insides
are abnormally clean. Like a complete M1 wash. No gunk, no black,
except where oil has pooled a little.

Started up the engine. when I revved up the engine enough so that
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of
the throat. if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away
the oil.

It is not enough to get a bath. I am suspecting that what I am
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke,
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.

My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil. Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic. This
is not. But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge? Les Blumner had a
source that was something like $80. I have seen $250.




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-15 Thread Dieselhead
That seems like a reasonable life expectancy, especially when you 
don't know what the PO did.


In spite of the fact that my turbo came in minus a stud, I'd still 
getting your turbo from Rusty.  The fact that he has had ZERO returns 
over a lot of years tells me they are a good rebuild.


I took cell phone pictures of the red goop all over the oil inlet of 
my old one.  Some year when I get the photos off my cell phone I will 
post them.



I have decided I'm using part of my bonus this year to buy a rebuilt 
turbo for my 87 300D -- same symptoms (blue smoke on startup, 
excessive oil consumption (worse on the highway) and definitely 
lethargic turbo response when cold, all the same problems I had with 
the 85 Volvo TD when it's turbo went south.


Oil coming out the front of the turbo (as in still getting oil blown 
into the intake (with the crankase line removed) can ONLY be the 
front seal on the turbo.  Easy to check, just verify that the blowby 
isn't bad enough to use that much oil.  Mine has more than I would 
like, but not enough to lose a quart of oil in 500 miles!  Usually, 
there is oil leaking into the turbine side as well, and that burns 
in the exhaust making blue smoke.


Odometer just rolled over to 300,000 this week, and is at least 
60,000 miles short of true milage, maybe 70,000.  I'm not upset the 
trubo has gone south at nearly 400,000 miles.  Seems to have good 
compression, too, although I'm not too sure about the head 
replacement done before I got the car 5 years ago.


Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football 
eliminator pipe would make access much easier.  Are these necessary 
for access, or just a convenience for getting the turbo out?  I am 
going to start on this tomorrow.



Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably 
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the 
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big 
deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with 
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If 
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the 
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need 
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until 
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive 
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Brian Toscano
What is the football eliminator pipe?  You don't have to separate the EGR
valve from the pipe it bolts to.  There are big fat o-rings that keep all
those intake pipes together.  You probably won't even need to replace them
unless they were butchered in the past.

But I strongly suggest not bolting anything up on reassembly until you get
all the parts back in place first.  i.e.  Don't bolt parts together until
you have the turbo oil drain pipe in place.  Its such a PITA to undo
everything just to fit something small like that.

It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs with a
post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual parts and
what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for a few weeks...




On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football eliminator
 pipe would make access much easier.  Are these necessary for access, or
 just a convenience for getting the turbo out?  I am going to start on this
 tomorrow.



  Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need
 to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
 possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.

 The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
 clamps, easy to manage.

 I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

  Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
 turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged
 when M1 is in the engine.

 I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
 drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
 shelf.

 Where does the oil feed line come in?

 What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
 turbo?

 Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

 The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the
 cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
 leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

 Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
 all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it
 gets finished because of the distance involved.

 Parts needed:

 2 or more drain tube o-rings
 2 oil drain gaskets
 EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
 Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
 new steel line?)
 Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

 It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
 either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

 1987 300SDL is the subject.

  Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?


 ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
 pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.

 I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
 bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
 chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
 with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
 parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
 a few weeks...

Or take pictures with a digital camera


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble
 It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
 with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
 parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
 a few weeks...
 
 Or take pictures with a digital camera


Or both :-)

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
This is a 603, not a 617.  All US 603s had a football smog crap 
over the top of the exhaust manifold.  This caused problems, and led 
to an extended warranty, where the stealer would replace the football 
with a pipe, and replace the trashed turbo if the football was not 
replaced before it trashed the turbo.


Actually, Andrew's 85 Collyfawnia TD had a football on the 617.


On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread John Freer
Actually, only the 86 West coast 603's had the football trap oxidizer. All 87's 
had them. 

John

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is a 603, not a 617.  All US 603s had a football smog crap over the 
 top of the exhaust manifold.  This caused problems, and led to an extended 
 warranty, where the stealer would replace the football with a pipe, and 
 replace the trashed turbo if the football was not replaced before it trashed 
 the turbo.
 
 Actually, Andrew's 85 Collyfawnia TD had a football on the 617.
 
 On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
 brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-13 Thread Dieselhead
The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and 
the oil filler cap loose.  [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with 
the cap off at idle.  a whole lot at higher rpm.]  Still roughly the 
same amount of oil coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown 
out in wisps


I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with 
wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a 
complete rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is 
worth the price differential in this case.  Plus the turbo from Q has 
a 2 yr warranty.  He says he has never had one come back.  that is 
good too.   Had I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I 
might have tried one.  but at $300, a known with time savings is good 
in this case.


Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.

Parts should be in thurs pm.  I have Thursday night and fri am to git er done.




87 300SDL


Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably 
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the 
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big 
deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with 
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If 
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the 
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need 
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until 
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive 
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-13 Thread Dieselhead
Can anyone find the pdf for removing a turbo in a SDL? (or a OM603 in 
a 300D or 300TD for that matter)


Dave M's online version does not have anything about the turbo.  Nor 
did his notes.


I think he has notes in the 124 section.  I will have to look there.

I found a really good how to from UK for rebuilding a garrett.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alexis.g/pics/Turbo%20recon.pdf
If I had time, that would be a good option.  But i'd have to get the 
turbo out, order parts, wait, make the first attempt, order more 
parts, wait, then put it all back together.  Likely a two week 
process.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-13 Thread Brian Toscano
You should not need to order parts more than once.  It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time.  The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble.  You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe.  It may also help to
remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to
work with.




On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and the
 oil filler cap loose.  [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with the cap off
 at idle.  a whole lot at higher rpm.]  Still roughly the same amount of oil
 coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown out in wisps

 I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with
 wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a complete
 rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is worth the
 price differential in this case.  Plus the turbo from Q has a 2 yr
 warranty.  He says he has never had one come back.  that is good too.   Had
 I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I might have tried one.
  but at $300, a known with time savings is good in this case.

 Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.

 Parts should be in thurs pm.  I have Thursday night and fri am to git er
 done.




 87 300SDL



 Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need
 to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
 possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.

 The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
 clamps, easy to manage.

 I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the turbo
 off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged when M1
 is in the engine.

 I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
 drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
 shelf.

 Where does the oil feed line come in?

 What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
 turbo?

 Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

 The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the
 cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
 leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

 Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
 all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it
 gets finished because of the distance involved.

 Parts needed:

 2 or more drain tube o-rings
 2 oil drain gaskets
 EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
 Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
 new steel line?)
 Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

 It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
 either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

 1987 300SDL is the subject.

 Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?


 ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
 pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.

 I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
 bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
 chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


 __**_
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-13 Thread Dieselhead
THanks for the info.  It is not the parts for the job, that require 
the second wait.  It is stuff that is not in the kit or things that 
you find when  you are in there that cause the second order.




You should not need to order parts more than once.  It is a relatively
straightforward job, but it does take some time.  The exhaust parts tend to
come loose without too much trouble.  You will need (or find it easier) to
get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe.  It may also help to
remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to
work with.




On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and the
 oil filler cap loose.  [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with the cap off
 at idle.  a whole lot at higher rpm.]  Still roughly the same amount of oil
 coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown out in wisps

 I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with
 wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a complete
 rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is worth the
 price differential in this case.  Plus the turbo from Q has a 2 yr
 warranty.  He says he has never had one come back.  that is good too.   Had
 I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I might have tried one.
  but at $300, a known with time savings is good in this case.

 Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.

 Parts should be in thurs pm.  I have Thursday night and fri am to git er
 done.




 87 300SDL



 Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need

 to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
 possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.

 The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
 clamps, easy to manage.

 I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the turbo

 off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged when M1
 is in the engine.

 I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
 drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
 shelf.

 Where does the oil feed line come in?

 What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
 turbo?

 Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

 The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the
 cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
 leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

 Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
 all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it

 gets finished because of the distance involved.

 Parts needed:

 2 or more drain tube o-rings
 2 oil drain gaskets
 EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
 Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
 new steel line?)
 Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

 It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
 either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

 1987 300SDL is the subject.

 Dieselhead wrote:



  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?



 ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under

  pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.


 I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
 bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
 chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.



 __**_
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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 To search list archives 

Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-13 Thread Brian Toscano
Right, like if the bushings around the transmission are bad or you decide
you want new studs, washers, or nuts for the exhaust, or one or both of the
flex pipes or clamps appears to be in poor condition.

I recall the job vividly because I had a KKK rebuilt and it wouldn't spool
up.  So I had to R/R the turbo a few times

There really is nothing to the job, except patience and time.

Because of all the parts and the tight fit, I recommend tightening all nuts
and bolts AFTER the parts are put into place (I'm talking exhaust, oil
lines, manifold, and T/O replacement pipe)

Otherwise when you have to pull it off again... its a headache.

The most expensive single part at the time was the metal flange gasket
between the turbo and the exhaust manifold.




On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 3:57 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 THanks for the info.  It is not the parts for the job, that require the
 second wait.  It is stuff that is not in the kit or things that you find
 when  you are in there that cause the second order.


  You should not need to order parts more than once.  It is a relatively
 straightforward job, but it does take some time.  The exhaust parts tend
 to
 come loose without too much trouble.  You will need (or find it easier) to
 get under the car to disconnect the exhaust downpipe.  It may also help to
 remove the exhaust support near the transmission to give you more room to
 work with.




 On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 12:39 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

   The turbo flunked the test with the breather (egr) disconnected and the
  oil filler cap loose.  [the cam throws quite a bit of oil with the cap
 off
  at idle.  a whole lot at higher rpm.]  Still roughly the same amount of
 oil
  coming up the throat of the turbo and being blown out in wisps

  I decided that $300 for a cartridge, and still having to fiddle with
  wastegate adjustment, and possibly running out of time vs buying a
 complete
  rebuilt from Q and not having to check or adjust anything is worth the
  price differential in this case.  Plus the turbo from Q has a 2 yr
  warranty.  He says he has never had one come back.  that is good too.
 Had
  I found the elusive $79 cartridge (gotta be chinee) I might have tried
 one.
  but at $300, a known with time savings is good in this case.

  Once again, Mr. Q saves an agent of Herr Daimler's secret service group.

  Parts should be in thurs pm.  I have Thursday night and fri am to git er
  done.




  87 300SDL



  Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need

  to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
  possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.

  The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with
 strap
  clamps, easy to manage.

  I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

  Peter

  On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

  Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
 turbo

  off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged
 when M1
  is in the engine.

  I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
  drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on
 a
  shelf.

  Where does the oil feed line come in?

  What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
  turbo?

  Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the
 turbo?

  The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the
  cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped
 oil
  leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

  Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I
 have
  all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months
 until it
  gets finished because of the distance involved.

  Parts needed:

  2 or more drain tube o-rings
  2 oil drain gaskets
  EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
  Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets?
 hose?
  new steel line?)
  Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

  It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
  either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another
 trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

  1987 300SDL is the subject.

  Dieselhead wrote:


   From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
  that right?

  Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence
 of
  seal failure?


   ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil
 under

   pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.


  I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if
 the
  bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
  chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


  ___

  

[MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Dieselhead
From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  Is 
that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence 
of seal failure?


Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from 
below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?




***prior post***

I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of 
the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away 
the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This 
is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a 
source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.





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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Mitch Haley

Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  Is 
that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of 
seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under 
pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the bearings 
wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get chewed too and 
might let oil into the compressor section.



___
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Peter Frederick
All diesel engines have some blowby -- easy enough to check on a 603,  
just pull the hard plastic hose out of the intake boot in front of  
the turbo.


I believe mine is bad, due to the amount of oil consumption (too high  
for the front seal leak to account for) and blue smoke on startup  
(new head about 60,000 miles ago, although quality of that job is  
unknown).


To check, take the intake boot off with the engine stopped and rotate  
the turbo by hand.  It must turn very smoothly and have zero axial  
play.  There will be barely detectable side play as it has floating  
bearings.  It must turn very easily, although it will not spin freely  
without oil pressure, and must not bind anywhere in rotation.  Rough,  
tight, or gritty sensations while rotating it indicate wiped bearings.


Last turbo cartridge I got was $400 for the job, rush basis with  
overnight shipping since I was in a hurry.  Car ran MUCH better (it  
was my old Volvo TD).


If you have used Mobil 1 for the entire time of operation, the turbo  
may indeed never wear out, but dino oil and interstate rest stops  
kill them fast -- you pull off the highway and shut it off with the  
turbine red hot, and the oil cokes in the bearings.  Not too much  
later, the bearings have been eroded by the carbon buildup, and it  
starts to run slow and leak oil out both ends.


A big leak out the back will make huge clouds of blue smoke, out the  
front you get excessive oil consumption.


If you have oil traveling out the crossover while idling, you  
definitely have a leaking seal, and usually that means the bearings  
are gone.


Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 5:11 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.   
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence  
of seal failure?


Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from  
below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?




***prior post***

I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides  
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black,  
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that  
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the  
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side  
of the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew  
away the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am  
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke,  
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine  
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.   
This is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had  
a source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.





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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Dieselhead
Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the 
drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on 
a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to 
either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another 
trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence 
of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Brian Toscano
The turbos can be either Garrett or KKK.  They were used interchangeably
from the factory.  You do not need to take off the exhaust manifold.  You
will need the metal gasket that goes between the turbo  the manifold.  You
may need to purchase studs or new copper nuts if you have problems.  The
O-rings are pretty hardy but you may want to replace them. For reassembly,
I found it is helpful to assemble the parts before fastening any nuts
because there isn't a lot of play.



On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 5:08 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the turbo
 off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged when M1
 is in the engine.

 I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
 drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
 shelf.

 Where does the oil feed line come in?

 What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

 Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

 The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the cranckase
 vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil leaking into
 the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

 Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
 all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it
 gets finished because of the distance involved.

 Parts needed:

 2 or more drain tube o-rings
 2 oil drain gaskets
 EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
 Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
 new steel line?)
 Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

 It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
 either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

 1987 300SDL is the subject.


  Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?


 ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
 pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.

 I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
 bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
 chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Dieselhead
I did not pull off the intake yet.  That was on my list for the 
morning.  Along with wrapping the joint at the crossover/intake 
manifold with a white rag and after a highway drive, checking to see 
if oil is leaking out there.


After 300k to 400k, the shaft on my old SDL had imperceptible side 
play, but did have noticeable end play.  It and the engine were fine.


I have run M1, but I doubt any PO did.

I asked Daughter about hot shutoffs, and I am not sure if she has 
been guilty of that.



All diesel engines have some blowby -- easy enough to check on a 
603, just pull the hard plastic hose out of the intake boot in front 
of the turbo.


I believe mine is bad, due to the amount of oil consumption (too 
high for the front seal leak to account for) and blue smoke on 
startup (new head about 60,000 miles ago, although quality of that 
job is unknown).


To check, take the intake boot off with the engine stopped and 
rotate the turbo by hand.  It must turn very smoothly and have zero 
axial play.  There will be barely detectable side play as it has 
floating bearings.  It must turn very easily, although it will not 
spin freely without oil pressure, and must not bind anywhere in 
rotation.  Rough, tight, or gritty sensations while rotating it 
indicate wiped bearings.


Last turbo cartridge I got was $400 for the job, rush basis with 
overnight shipping since I was in a hurry.  Car ran MUCH better (it 
was my old Volvo TD).


If you have used Mobil 1 for the entire time of operation, the turbo 
may indeed never wear out, but dino oil and interstate rest stops 
kill them fast -- you pull off the highway and shut it off with the 
turbine red hot, and the oil cokes in the bearings.  Not too much 
later, the bearings have been eroded by the carbon buildup, and it 
starts to run slow and leak oil out both ends.


A big leak out the back will make huge clouds of blue smoke, out the 
front you get excessive oil consumption.


If you have oil traveling out the crossover while idling, you 
definitely have a leaking seal, and usually that means the bearings 
are gone.


Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 5:11 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence 
of seal failure?


Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from 
below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?




***prior post***

I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side 
of the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew 
away the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  
This is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had 
a source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.





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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Brian Toscano
It is unlikely that hot shutoffs killed your turbo.  Some parts just break
and no amount of oil changes or babying could have prevented it.



On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 5:52 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I did not pull off the intake yet.  That was on my list for the morning.
  Along with wrapping the joint at the crossover/intake manifold with a
 white rag and after a highway drive, checking to see if oil is leaking out
 there.

 After 300k to 400k, the shaft on my old SDL had imperceptible side play,
 but did have noticeable end play.  It and the engine were fine.

 I have run M1, but I doubt any PO did.

 I asked Daughter about hot shutoffs, and I am not sure if she has been
 guilty of that.



  All diesel engines have some blowby -- easy enough to check on a 603,
 just pull the hard plastic hose out of the intake boot in front of the
 turbo.

 I believe mine is bad, due to the amount of oil consumption (too high for
 the front seal leak to account for) and blue smoke on startup (new head
 about 60,000 miles ago, although quality of that job is unknown).

 To check, take the intake boot off with the engine stopped and rotate the
 turbo by hand.  It must turn very smoothly and have zero axial play.  There
 will be barely detectable side play as it has floating bearings.  It must
 turn very easily, although it will not spin freely without oil pressure,
 and must not bind anywhere in rotation.  Rough, tight, or gritty sensations
 while rotating it indicate wiped bearings.

 Last turbo cartridge I got was $400 for the job, rush basis with
 overnight shipping since I was in a hurry.  Car ran MUCH better (it was my
 old Volvo TD).

 If you have used Mobil 1 for the entire time of operation, the turbo may
 indeed never wear out, but dino oil and interstate rest stops kill them
 fast -- you pull off the highway and shut it off with the turbine red hot,
 and the oil cokes in the bearings.  Not too much later, the bearings have
 been eroded by the carbon buildup, and it starts to run slow and leak oil
 out both ends.

 A big leak out the back will make huge clouds of blue smoke, out the
 front you get excessive oil consumption.

 If you have oil traveling out the crossover while idling, you definitely
 have a leaking seal, and usually that means the bearings are gone.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 5:11 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?

 Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


 Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

 It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
 below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



 ***prior post***

 I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides are
 abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, except
 where oil has pooled a little.

 Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that the
 turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the throat of
 the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of the throat.  if
 I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away the oil.

 It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am seeing
 is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, especially on startup,
 and washdown the port side of the engine through the crossover pipe not
 being sealed well.

 My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

 The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This is
 not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

 Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a
 source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.




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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Peter Frederick
Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably  
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the  
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with  
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the  
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting  
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If  
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the  
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing  
the turbo?


Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the  
turbo?


The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the  
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped  
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I  
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or  
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets?  
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need  
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until  
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive  
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil  
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor  
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if  
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals  
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-12 Thread Dieselhead
yes.  270k miles is on the low side of longevity, but not unheard of. 
500k miles is probably the top of longevity.  (with possible outliers)




It is unlikely that hot shutoffs killed your turbo.  Some parts just break
and no amount of oil changes or babying could have prevented it.



On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 5:52 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


 I did not pull off the intake yet.  That was on my list for the morning.
  Along with wrapping the joint at the crossover/intake manifold with a
 white rag and after a highway drive, checking to see if oil is leaking out
 there.

 After 300k to 400k, the shaft on my old SDL had imperceptible side play,
 but did have noticeable end play.  It and the engine were fine.

 I have run M1, but I doubt any PO did.

 I asked Daughter about hot shutoffs, and I am not sure if she has been
 guilty of that.



  All diesel engines have some blowby -- easy enough to check on a 603,

 just pull the hard plastic hose out of the intake boot in front of the
 turbo.

 I believe mine is bad, due to the amount of oil consumption (too high for
 the front seal leak to account for) and blue smoke on startup (new head
 about 60,000 miles ago, although quality of that job is unknown).

 To check, take the intake boot off with the engine stopped and rotate the
 turbo by hand.  It must turn very smoothly and have zero axial play.  There
 will be barely detectable side play as it has floating bearings.  It must
 turn very easily, although it will not spin freely without oil pressure,
 and must not bind anywhere in rotation.  Rough, tight, or gritty sensations
 while rotating it indicate wiped bearings.

 Last turbo cartridge I got was $400 for the job, rush basis with
 overnight shipping since I was in a hurry.  Car ran MUCH better (it was my
 old Volvo TD).

 If you have used Mobil 1 for the entire time of operation, the turbo may
 indeed never wear out, but dino oil and interstate rest stops kill them
 fast -- you pull off the highway and shut it off with the turbine red hot,
 and the oil cokes in the bearings.  Not too much later, the bearings have
 been eroded by the carbon buildup, and it starts to run slow and leak oil
 out both ends.

 A big leak out the back will make huge clouds of blue smoke, out the
 front you get excessive oil consumption.

 If you have oil traveling out the crossover while idling, you definitely
 have a leaking seal, and usually that means the bearings are gone.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 5:11 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure.  Is

 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?

 Does anyone have experience with buying a turbo cartridge?


 Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

 It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from
 below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?



 ***prior post***

 I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides are
 abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, except
 where oil has pooled a little.

 Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that the
 turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the throat of
 the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of the throat.  if
 I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away the oil.

 It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am seeing
 is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, especially 
on startup,

 and washdown the port side of the engine through the crossover pipe not
 being sealed well.

 My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

 

 The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This is
 not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

 Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a
 source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.




 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/


 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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 To search list archives 

[MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-10 Thread Dieselhead

Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from 
below.  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?






I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides 
are abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, 
except where oil has pooled a little.


Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that 
the turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the 
throat of the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of 
the throat.  if I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away 
the oil.


It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am 
seeing is enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, 
especially on startup, and washdown the port side of the engine 
through the crossover pipe not being sealed well.


My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This 
is not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.


Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a 
source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.







Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of 
Turbo is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The 
drain pipe is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and 
it looks like from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs 
of a major leak.  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is 
coated with dirt and oil, but nothing fresh.  I could not find the 
pressure line that feeds the turbo.  Where do you see it?


Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff 
oring on the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. 
no signs of oil leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil 
leaks apparent from IP to block.  That oring was new last summer. 
Even the shutoff on top of the IP is wet with oil.  Oil all over the 
IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount, the head, and the side of the 
block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed clean from oil.  Bottom of 
oil pan is coated and dripping oil.


When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much 
centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal 
shows no sign of excessive leakage.


What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the 
engine with no sign of  valve cover leaking?


here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover 
pipe to intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray 
could be blown all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. 
That could account for the head being wet with oil on the left side, 
but the valve cover does not leak.  Would account for smokin and 
leaking.  It would also account for oil all over the compressor side 
of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the feed pipe drains down and 
pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air intake hose fitting 
to the turbo.



I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil 
shower results.


Subject is 87 SDL OM603.

I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone 
now.  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.






Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than 
the oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this 
happen in my old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the 
exhaust.  Leaking turbo seals can put quite a bit of oil into the 
intake -- I'm thinking mine is shot due to excess oil consumption 
and lousy performance at light throttle, same as the Volvo when the 
turbo quit on it.


One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod 
because you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled 
up with oil on an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.


Peter


On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:


I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
:-)

Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
wife said she could still smell it for a week.

-Dave Walton


On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

Blown head gasket

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil 
is dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  
The engine is also smoking more than normal.


Turbo seals?
Turbo drain seals?

anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?


Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-10 Thread Brian Toscano
The Garrett and KKK turbochargers are interchangeable and both were used.


On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Does anyone know what turbo is on an 87 SDL?  Garret or KKK?

 It looks like some things are accessible from above, and some from below.
  What is the best method for getting the turbo out?





 I think I am on to something.  With the crossover off, the insides are
 abnormally clean.  Like a complete M1 wash.  No gunk, no black, except
 where oil has pooled a little.

 Started up the engine.  when I revved up the engine enough so that the
 turbo started, and held it there, there was oil climbing up the throat of
 the turbo and running counterclockwise to the high side of the throat.  if
 I ran the RPM up to 3k or so, then the air blew away the oil.

 It is not enough to get a bath.  I am suspecting that what I am seeing is
 enough to wash the crossover/intake clean, smoke, especially on startup,
 and washdown the port side of the engine through the crossover pipe not
 being sealed well.

 My guess is that any visible oil is too much oil.  Is this correct?

 The turbo seal failures I have heard of have been catastrophic.  This is
 not.  But I suppose it could go catastrophic at any time.

 Any body got a cheap source for a turbo cartridge?  Les Blumner had a
 source that was something like $80.  I have seen $250.






 Got the SDL jacked up today to look for leaks.  Compressor side of Turbo
 is all wet with oil.  It is NOT washed clean from the oil.  The drain pipe
 is not oily.  the top mount of the drain pipe is wet, and it looks like
 from above.  The bottom mount is also wet, but no signs of a major leak.
  the vacuum pod that controls the wastegate is coated with dirt and oil,
 but nothing fresh.  I could not find the pressure line that feeds the
 turbo.  Where do you see it?

 Left side of engine is wet and oily all over.  I knew the shutoff oring on
 the IP is bad, had ordered replacements from Q last week. no signs of oil
 leaking out from the head to block seam.  No oil leaks apparent from IP to
 block.  That oring was new last summer. Even the shutoff on top of the IP
 is wet with oil.  Oil all over the IP, the fuel heater, left motor mount,
 the head, and the side of the block.  Left side of the oil pan is washed
 clean from oil.  Bottom of oil pan is coated and dripping oil.

 When I looked where the car has been parked, the oil is pretty much
 centered under the car.  Like dripping off the oil pan.  Front seal shows
 no sign of excessive leakage.

 What is up with this?  how does oil get all over the side of the engine
 with no sign of  valve cover leaking?

 here is my new theory:  if the turbo is leaking AND the crossover pipe to
 intake manifold is leaking out the bottom, then an oil spray could be blown
 all over the engine when the turbo is spooled up. That could account for
 the head being wet with oil on the left side, but the valve cover does not
 leak.  Would account for smokin and leaking.  It would also account for oil
 all over the compressor side of the turbo:  Oil in the crossover and the
 feed pipe drains down and pools in the compressor, with seepage out the air
 intake hose fitting to the turbo.


 I am off to remove the crossover and start it up and see if an oil shower
 results.

 Subject is 87 SDL OM603.

 I had the 126 CD on this computer before the HD died.  It is gone now.
  Ceerap.  I left the cds at home.





  Could be a bad turbo, which will cause all the problems other than the
 oil drip (unless the drain tube is bad too).  I've had this happen in my
 old Volvo -- an amazing amount of coked oil in the exhaust.  Leaking turbo
 seals can put quite a bit of oil into the intake -- I'm thinking mine is
 shot due to excess oil consumption and lousy performance at light throttle,
 same as the Volvo when the turbo quit on it.

 One thing to check for -- does it clank too?  If so, bent #1 rod because
 you didn't replace the head gasket before #1 cylinder filled up with oil on
 an intake stroke from a failed head gasket there.

 Peter


 On Mar 4, 2012, at 2:02 PM, dave walton wrote:

  I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
 being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
 a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

 I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
 you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
 drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
 :-)

 Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
 wife said she could still smell it for a week.

 -Dave Walton


 On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 wrote:

 Blown head gasket

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil is
 dripping on the passenger side near the rear of the