Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[greg via Mercedes]

That being said, I have a traditional style "airtight" stove, IIRC it is
"Earth Stove" brand. It utilizes convection vents on either side, and is
fully lined with firebrick. My home is around 2,700 sq. ft. and has a heat
pump, but I run the stove to supplement the heat during sub-freezing
temps. One time I had forgotten to set the heat pump to heat only, and
when I ran the woodstove the A/C kicked on.

Yes, the glass darkens quickly.

Greg

> For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here
> in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance
> baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove
> and utilize waste products of lumbermills.
>
> Greg
>
>
>> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood
>> stove.
>> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably
>> attractive
>> to look at. Any recommendations?
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

Pellet stoves do burn very clean, and they're very efficient.  One 40# bag of 
pellets
will heat the beach cabin for 24 hours.  (40# of firewood will barely get you 
through
the morning.)  Their piddly little flame, with no coals, is not aesthetically 
very pleasing,
though.  The wood stove is very attractive, if the glass is clean.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. 
> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to 
> look at. Any recommendations?

I put in Quadra-fire inserts to replace the ratty old inserts in our house.  
They worked
very well, had secondary burn chambers and no catalysts to foul, and would damp 
down
for an overnight burn.  But, as inserts, they have (and need) fans in order to 
actually heat.

Then the company got bought and the EPA got even uglier.  When I went to look 
at a
free-standing stove for our new addition they were much more cheaply made, and 
wouldn't
damp down at all.  I was Not Impressed, particularly with the damping lever 
(which they
still had) that wasn't actually connected to anything.

I ended up with a Lopi, bought in Idaho, instead.  It works well, but dirties 
the glass almost
immediately if damped down.  (Unlike the neighbors' Lopi, although theirs is 
oriented deep
vs our wide.)

I dislike the triple-wall pipe, because I think that eliminates a lot of the 
heat that would get
into the room.  Fine for going through the roof, but I'd prefer single-wall 
in-room going to
a 3-wall at the ceiling.

Our Lopi is attractive but doesn't heat as well as the stoves of yore I 
remember.  I suspect
that it really needs a fan in order to make up for its cosmetic and safety 
features.  But, even
without the fan it does heat and we're very happy to have it.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

There was a scheme a coupla years ago to build a pellet plant around 
here to utilize the trees that couldn't go to the pulp plant or 
sawmills.  A good part of SC is in managed pine forests so there is a 
large supply of timber for whatever uses.  Most of it was going to be 
shipped to europe it seems, and that pissed off a lot of people who 
opposed it.  Lot of drying involved too, utilizes burning waste I think, 
but that is not environmentally-sound to some extent. I don't think it 
ever got built, might have been covids influenced that too.


--FT

On 8/27/22 11:10 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

They require less attention than a traditional woodstove and utilize waste 
products of lumbermills.

Two comments: 1) They require power to operate, so one major use of such a 
stove,
heat when the power is out, is compromised.  (Some can use a backup deep-cycle
battery to operate for some hours, or you can put them on a UPS with big 
batteries.)
And 2) they ran out of 'waste' sawdust some time ago, and now grind up trees 
for the
fuel too.  The price of pellets has risen to be somewhat on parity with other 
fuels.

Which is not to say that they're not worth having, but they're not a gimme.  
One of these
is the primary heat at our beach cabin, but I don't have one here.  Heat with 
power off
was a major consideration, post-ice-storm, and I have 20 acres of trees.  Lots 
of
beetle kill, wind takedowns, etc.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archiveshttp://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


--
--FT
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> They require less attention than a traditional woodstove and utilize waste 
> products of lumbermills.

Two comments: 1) They require power to operate, so one major use of such a 
stove,
heat when the power is out, is compromised.  (Some can use a backup deep-cycle
battery to operate for some hours, or you can put them on a UPS with big 
batteries.)
And 2) they ran out of 'waste' sawdust some time ago, and now grind up trees 
for the
fuel too.  The price of pellets has risen to be somewhat on parity with other 
fuels.

Which is not to say that they're not worth having, but they're not a gimme.  
One of these
is the primary heat at our beach cabin, but I don't have one here.  Heat with 
power off
was a major consideration, post-ice-storm, and I have 20 acres of trees.  Lots 
of
beetle kill, wind takedowns, etc.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

We've got a Jotul 118. I really like it, it's got secondary burn so there isn't 
any smoke when it's burning good and it'll heat our whole house adequately 
while requiring no electricity.

I make a big pile of yard waste all year and burn it during the first few days 
of heating season which uses up the brush and heats the house for free.

-Curt




On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 02:09:00 PM EDT, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. I'd 
like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to look 
at. Any recommendations?


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Those corn heaters seem like a really stupid idea. Lets burn food for heat. At 
least with ethanol the residue still has some food value.

-Curt

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 07:09:07 PM EDT, mitch--- via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





On 2022-08-26 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote:
> For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular 
> here
> in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by 
> resistance
> baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional 
> woodstove
> and utilize waste products of lumbermills.

Had a client buy a big corn stove to heat their warehouse about 15 years 
ago.
Corn was about $1.60 a bushel, and the stove dealer sold them on the 
fuel savings.
Wasn't looking quite so good a year later when corn was over $3 a 
bushel.
And IIRC it didn't work with pellets.



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Make sure you've got some backup electricity though...

-Curt




On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 06:38:51 PM EDT, greg via Mercedes 
 wrote: 





For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here
in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance
baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove
and utilize waste products of lumbermills.

Greg


> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove.
> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive
> to look at. Any recommendations?
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

>
>



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[mitch--- via Mercedes]

On 2022-08-26 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote:
For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular 
here
in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by 
resistance
baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional 
woodstove

and utilize waste products of lumbermills.


Had a client buy a big corn stove to heat their warehouse about 15 years 
ago.
Corn was about $1.60 a bushel, and the stove dealer sold them on the 
fuel savings.
Wasn't looking quite so good a year later when corn was over $3 a 
bushel.

And IIRC it didn't work with pellets.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

I want to utilize the waste products of my 5 wooded acres.

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022, at 18:37, greg via Mercedes wrote:
> For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here
> in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance
> baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove
> and utilize waste products of lumbermills.
>
> Greg
>
>
>> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove.
>> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive
>> to look at. Any recommendations?
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 18:37:54 -0400 greg via Mercedes
 wrote:

> For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here
> in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by
> resistance baseboard heat. They require less attention than a
> traditional woodstove and utilize waste products of lumbermills.

The PNW has a lot of lumbermills, so pellets in pellet stoves would be a
good use of a resource. Other parts of the country don't have those
lumbermills.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[greg via Mercedes]

For efficiency, pellet stoves are a good bet. They are very popular here
in the PNW. A typical setup here is a pellet stove backed up by resistance
baseboard heat. They require less attention than a traditional woodstove
and utilize waste products of lumbermills.

Greg


> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove.
> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive
> to look at. Any recommendations?
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Don't have a fireplace.

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022, at 15:54, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
> You can use a fireplace insert provided you allow outside air for
> combustion rather than suck heated air from the home up the chimney.
>
> On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 4:23 PM Craig via Mercedes 
> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 13:07:54 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>>
>> > For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood
>> > stove. I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably
>> > attractive to look at. Any recommendations?
>>
>> We had Vermont Castings stoves in the long past.
>>
>>
>> Craig
>>

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

You can use a fireplace insert provided you allow outside air for
combustion rather than suck heated air from the home up the chimney.

On Fri, Aug 26, 2022 at 4:23 PM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 13:07:54 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood
> > stove. I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably
> > attractive to look at. Any recommendations?
>
> We had Vermont Castings stoves in the long past.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Fri, 26 Aug 2022 13:07:54 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
 wrote:

> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood
> stove. I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably
> attractive to look at. Any recommendations?

We had Vermont Castings stoves in the long past.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

A free-standing stove gets into a lot of code and insurance issues. There are a 
lot of zero-clearance inserts you can box in and run a flue, they have fans to 
move the heat around, look like a fireplace when (glass) doors are open. 

The flue aspect can be challenging too. I think the newer types are triple-wall 
and bring combustion air in from outside and insulate much better than the 
older styles. 

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Aug 26, 2022, at 2:09 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. 
> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to 
> look at. Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

For a “variety” of reasons. How about for one reason- because oil is $5 per 
gallon and we all know why

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 26, 2022, at 2:09 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. 
> I'd like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to 
> look at. Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] OT: Wood stove

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

For a variety of reasons I've been thinking about putting in a wood stove. I'd 
like something well made and efficient but also reasonably attractive to look 
at. Any recommendations?


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Yes around the outside. Also hood to put a vertical clamp on a leg or two
so you have pressure on legs & rungs.  If not tap legs in with rubber
mallet.Wish I were closer. Have boatload of clamps.

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
2005 E320 4 matic
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 2:02 PM, "Max Dillon via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Ok, but for the legs, Dwight said he likes web clamps.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
>
> On November 13, 2016 1:09:03 PM EST, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >I have pipe clamps, and you will need some C-clamps to keep the seat
> >sides aligned while skweezing the edges together.  Web clamps won't get
> >
> >you where you need to be, you need the pipe clamps (and skweeze kind of
> >
> >clamps won't give enough pressure).  This is a case of more is better,
> >too much is fine too.
> >
> >--R
> >
> >
> >On 11/13/16 1:04 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> >> Ok, ok, Titebond it is, with clamps.
> >>
> >> Does harbor freight sell web clamps?
> >
> >--
> >--FT
> >
> >
> >___
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I used it some years ago, but for it to work well you have to apply it hot.  It 
involves the use of a glue pot and brush.  You buy it in pellet or block form 
and throw it in the pot where it melts down into a liquid. Messy and painful to 
use, but does a pretty good job when it comes to gluing up boards to make a 
panel, for example.

Modern glues are so much easier to use and far less hassle, I’m not sure why 
anyone would use hide glue these days unless they were trying to be authentic 
for some reason.

Never used the liquid at room temperature hide glue stuff.

I used to melt shellac for finishing, too.  You can get as good or better 
finishes with a lot less effort with modern products.  Only thing I can think 
of that makes it worthwhile is the ease of touchups and repairs.  Shellac is 
amazingly easy to repair.

Dan


> On Nov 13, 2016, at 1:40 PM, archer75--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Have you, or anyone else on the list, ever used (hot) hide glue? 
> Gerry
> ~
> Dwight wrote:
> 
>> You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I
>> like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs.
>> And never use gorilla glue for this.
>> Dwight
>> 
>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> 1982 300CD
>> 1990 300D
>> Wickford RI
>> 
>> On Nov 13, 2016 9:43 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Titebond yellow wood glue.  You can get it at any big box home improvement
>>> store.
>>> 
>>> As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity.  C clamps. rubber
>>> bands, anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the
>>> joint.
>>> 
>>> Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my choice.  Gorilla glue
>>> expands as it cures, and can actually force the joint open as a result.
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Nov 13, 2016, at 6:15 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
 bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
 you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
 Dwight
 
 Dwight Giles Jr.
 1982 300CD
 1990 300D
 Wickford RI
 
 On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:
 
> I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
> sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
> well-protected by the wood itself?
> 
> -- Jim
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> arche...@embarqmail.com 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Oh yeah, for that, the straps are great

--FT


On 11/13/16 2:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Ok, but for the legs, Dwight said he likes web clamps.


--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Ok, but for the legs, Dwight said he likes web clamps.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On November 13, 2016 1:09:03 PM EST, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>I have pipe clamps, and you will need some C-clamps to keep the seat 
>sides aligned while skweezing the edges together.  Web clamps won't get
>
>you where you need to be, you need the pipe clamps (and skweeze kind of
>
>clamps won't give enough pressure).  This is a case of more is better, 
>too much is fine too.
>
>--R
>
>
>On 11/13/16 1:04 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>> Ok, ok, Titebond it is, with clamps.
>>
>> Does harbor freight sell web clamps?
>
>-- 
>--FT
>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

You can get bottled hide glue now too.  The thing about hide glue is 
that it is releasable so not really permanent.  I notice on old 
furniture it dries out and crumbles up so doesn't really hold any more.  
Interestingly, Titebond is also releasable with some heat, and will 
rebond when it cools.  This is useful for gluing up veneers or edge 
banding, if you can get an iron on it to warm it up you can move it 
around or take it off.


--R


On 11/13/16 1:40 PM, archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:

Have you, or anyone else on the list, ever used (hot) hide glue?
Gerry
~
Dwight wrote:


You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I
like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs.
And never use gorilla glue for this.
Dwight

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 9:43 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:


Titebond yellow wood glue.  You can get it at any big box home improvement
store.

As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity.  C clamps. rubber
bands, anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the
joint.

Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my choice.  Gorilla glue
expands as it cures, and can actually force the joint open as a result.

Dan




On Nov 13, 2016, at 6:15 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
Dwight

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:


I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
well-protected by the wood itself?

-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Have you, or anyone else on the list, ever used (hot) hide glue? 
Gerry
~
Dwight wrote:

> You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I
> like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs.
> And never use gorilla glue for this.
> Dwight
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> 1982 300CD
> 1990 300D
> Wickford RI
> 
> On Nov 13, 2016 9:43 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
> wrote:
> 
> > Titebond yellow wood glue.  You can get it at any big box home improvement
> > store.
> >
> > As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity.  C clamps. rubber
> > bands, anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the
> > joint.
> >
> > Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my choice.  Gorilla glue
> > expands as it cures, and can actually force the joint open as a result.
> >
> > Dan
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Nov 13, 2016, at 6:15 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
> > > bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
> > > you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
> > > Dwight
> > >
> > > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > > 1982 300CD
> > > 1990 300D
> > > Wickford RI
> > >
> > > On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
> > >> sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
> > >> well-protected by the wood itself?
> > >>
> > >> -- Jim
> > >> ___
> > >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >>
> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >>
> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > >>
> > >>
> > > ___
> > > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > >
> > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


-- 
arche...@embarqmail.com 

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I have pipe clamps, and you will need some C-clamps to keep the seat 
sides aligned while skweezing the edges together.  Web clamps won't get 
you where you need to be, you need the pipe clamps (and skweeze kind of 
clamps won't give enough pressure).  This is a case of more is better, 
too much is fine too.


--R


On 11/13/16 1:04 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Ok, ok, Titebond it is, with clamps.

Does harbor freight sell web clamps?


--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Ok, ok, Titebond it is, with clamps.

Does harbor freight sell web clamps?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On November 13, 2016 at 10:19 AM Max Dillon via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock?
> 
> I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type.

"Bedding" of action to stock should always be done with Acraglas, or better yet,
Acraglas Gel. 

"Hot stuff" is widely used in model aircraft framework as it sets quickly, adds
little weight, and is much stronger than balsa and even spruce. At least one
gunsmith recommends Hot Stuff for stock cracks, but I'm still not sure if it's
really strong enough for structural repairs on hardwood that sees heavy impulse
loads.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

If the crack is tight in regular wood repair get a hypodermic  needle,
water down  the tite bond & inject it into the crack.

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 10:42 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> For gun stocks, yes.
>
> Acraglas can be used to repair cracks as well, if they’re open enough to
> get it into the joint.
>
> Hot Stuff Thin instant CA glue is for really tight cracks that you can’t
> force adhesive into, as it can get "wicked” into the joint by capillary
> action.
>
> I would never use anything but Titebond yellow glue on furniture.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> > On Nov 13, 2016, at 10:19 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock?
> >
> > I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type.
> > --
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> > '87 300TD
> > '95 E300
> >
> > On November 12, 2016 11:05:11 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
> >>  wrote:
> >>
> >>> What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for
> >> the
> >>> shotgun stock that Dan was considering)?
> >>>
> >>> I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half.
> >>> Some other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular
> >> wood
> >>> glue in the joints.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
> >>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> >>> Cc: Mitch Haley 
> >>> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> >>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Gun Question
> >>> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2016 10:16:48 -0400 (EDT)
> >>> Sender: "Mercedes" 
> >>> X-Mailer: Open-Xchange Mailer v7.8.0-Rev40
> >>>
> >>> If you're going to glue it, Brownell's Acraglas, not gorilla glue,
> >>> which isn't really that strong and seems to die with exposure to UV.
> >>>
> >>>
> >> http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/BrowseItems2.aspx?
> Keywords=Lanber=3037
> >>>
> >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Akq1tUUU
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

You want Titebond II wood glue, smear some in the crack, make sure both 
sides are covered, then clamp it together for 24hr.  If you want to 
bring them out I have all the clamps needed, and the glue too.


--R


On 11/13/16 10:19 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock?

I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type.


--
--FT


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

For gun stocks, yes.

Acraglas can be used to repair cracks as well, if they’re open enough to get it 
into the joint.

Hot Stuff Thin instant CA glue is for really tight cracks that you can’t force 
adhesive into, as it can get "wicked” into the joint by capillary action.

I would never use anything but Titebond yellow glue on furniture.

Dan



> On Nov 13, 2016, at 10:19 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock?
> 
> I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type.
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD
> '95 E300
> 
> On November 12, 2016 11:05:11 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
>> On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for
>> the
>>> shotgun stock that Dan was considering)?
>>> 
>>> I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half.
>>> Some other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular
>> wood
>>> glue in the joints.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Cc: Mitch Haley 
>>> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Gun Question
>>> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2016 10:16:48 -0400 (EDT)
>>> Sender: "Mercedes" 
>>> X-Mailer: Open-Xchange Mailer v7.8.0-Rev40
>>> 
>>> If you're going to glue it, Brownell's Acraglas, not gorilla glue,
>>> which isn't really that strong and seems to die with exposure to UV. 
>>> 
>>> 
>> http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/BrowseItems2.aspx?Keywords=Lanber=3037
>>> 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Akq1tUUU
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

Looks like Brownell's Acraglas is for bedding the stock?

I thought someone mentioned a "super glue" type.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On November 12, 2016 11:05:11 PM EST, Craig via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>> What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for
>the
>> shotgun stock that Dan was considering)?
>> 
>> I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half.
>> Some other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular
>wood
>> glue in the joints.
>
>
>
>> From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Cc: Mitch Haley 
>> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Gun Question
>> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2016 10:16:48 -0400 (EDT)
>> Sender: "Mercedes" 
>> X-Mailer: Open-Xchange Mailer v7.8.0-Rev40
>> 
>> If you're going to glue it, Brownell's Acraglas, not gorilla glue,
>> which isn't really that strong and seems to die with exposure to UV. 
>> 
>>
>http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/BrowseItems2.aspx?Keywords=Lanber=3037
>> 
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Akq1tUUU
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

You are correct Dan. I have about 15 different clamps. For chair seats I
like bar or pipe clamps. Web clamp for chair legs.
And never use gorilla glue for this.
Dwight

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 9:43 AM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> Titebond yellow wood glue.  You can get it at any big box home improvement
> store.
>
> As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity.  C clamps. rubber
> bands, anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the
> joint.
>
> Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my choice.  Gorilla glue
> expands as it cures, and can actually force the joint open as a result.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> > On Nov 13, 2016, at 6:15 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
> > bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
> > you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
> > Dwight
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > 1982 300CD
> > 1990 300D
> > Wickford RI
> >
> > On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
> >> sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
> >> well-protected by the wood itself?
> >>
> >> -- Jim
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Titebond yellow wood glue.  You can get it at any big box home improvement 
store.

As suggested, clamping is critical to joint longevity.  C clamps. rubber bands, 
anything to keep the surfaces in contact and minimize voids in the joint.

Gorilla Glue has its uses, but this would not be my choice.  Gorilla glue 
expands as it cures, and can actually force the joint open as a result.

Dan


 
> On Nov 13, 2016, at 6:15 AM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
> bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
> you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
> Dwight
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> 1982 300CD
> 1990 300D
> Wickford RI
> 
> On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" 
> wrote:
> 
>> I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
>> sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
>> well-protected by the wood itself?
>> 
>> -- Jim
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

You have to clamp!!! This is,especially true for chair seats. I use tite
bond wood glue. You want a thin even coating so tighten the clamps until
you see a bead of glue,squeeze out.
Dwight

Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
1990 300D
Wickford RI

On Nov 13, 2016 2:27 AM, "Jim Cathey via Mercedes" 
wrote:

> I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
> sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
> well-protected by the wood itself?
>
> -- Jim
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I use regular wood glue for regular wood.  If it's going to get wet
sometimes, I use gorilla glue.  How can UV attack a glue that is
well-protected by the wood itself?

-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 22:32:07 -0500 Max Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for the
> shotgun stock that Dan was considering)?
> 
> I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half.
> Some other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular wood
> glue in the joints.



> From: Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Cc: Mitch Haley 
> Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Gun Question
> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2016 10:16:48 -0400 (EDT)
> Sender: "Mercedes" 
> X-Mailer: Open-Xchange Mailer v7.8.0-Rev40
> 
> If you're going to glue it, Brownell's Acraglas, not gorilla glue,
> which isn't really that strong and seems to die with exposure to UV. 
> 
> http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/BrowseItems2.aspx?Keywords=Lanber=3037
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Akq1tUUU

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] OT wood furniture repair

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

What was the recommendation for glue to repair a crack in wood (for the shotgun 
stock that Dan was considering)?

I've got a couple old chairs, solid wood seat, cracked right in half.  Some 
other chairs have loose joints, I was planning to use regular wood glue in the 
joints.

Thanks,
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

CINC would be Commander IN Chief.

COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home.

I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations...

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC

On Nov 12, 2014 9:26 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 AF designation would be CINCHOME.  'Hope all are well.   ;)


 Civvy interpretation would be Complainer In Chief, Home?

 -- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

Commander, mid america

How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT?


CINC would be Commander IN Chief.

COMHOMELANT would be Commander, Atlantic Home.

I can't quite figure out Curly's abbreviations...

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Ah, got it.

COMHOMELANT only recognizes one higher authority, and it isn't COMMIDAM!

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC

On Nov 13, 2014 12:51 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Commander, mid america

 How did the COMMIDAM orders fly with COMHOMELANT?

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

[MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
that if necessary.

Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
and cats.

We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
flooring.

-- 
-
Max
Charleston SC
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

I have recently put down 3 floors.  One prefinished brazilian cherry, 
one prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry.  These are 
all solid wood.  The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice.  The 
hickory is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and 
temperature.  The unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and 
finished soon.  The finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's 
down.  I don't really like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot 
fully articulate.  Maybe the nailed-down stuff would be better than the 
floating.


I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it.  I ordered my flooring 
on-line, got good prices.  The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the 
same stuff.


--R


On 11/12/14 8:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
that if necessary.

Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
and cats.

We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
flooring.




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Opinion:

Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a
fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the
area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and
finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing
the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years
if kept dry and cared for.

I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had
engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look
cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was
cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said..
I'm solid wood and I look it.

At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I
used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold
them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test.

My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with
new solid wood.

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

 Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
 trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
 that if necessary.

 Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
 pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
 and cats.

 We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
 in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
 connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
 oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
 downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

 So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
 existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
 different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
 carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
 However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
 entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
 flooring.

 --
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Thanks Rich.

Tell me more about ordering wood on-line.  Website?

-Max

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I have recently put down 3 floors.  One prefinished brazilian cherry, one
 prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry.  These are all
 solid wood.  The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice.  The hickory
 is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature.  The
 unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and finished soon.  The
 finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's down.  I don't really
 like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot fully articulate.  Maybe the
 nailed-down stuff would be better than the floating.

 I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it.  I ordered my flooring
 on-line, got good prices.  The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the same
 stuff.

 --R



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[dseretakis--- via Mercedes]

I agree. Engineered is garbage. It will always have a cheap look to it. The pre 
finished is nice but it has a subtle bevel and a finish which is too perfect. 
These both detract in my opinion. The best is solid wood sanded then finished.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 12, 2014, at 9:21 AM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Opinion:
 
 Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to a
 fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the
 area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain and
 finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of replacing
 the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years
 if kept dry and cared for.
 
 I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had
 engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look
 cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it was
 cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said..
 I'm solid wood and I look it.
 
 At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I
 used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold
 them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test.
 
 My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet with
 new solid wood.
 
 On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.
 
 Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
 trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
 that if necessary.
 
 Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
 pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
 and cats.
 
 We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
 in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
 connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
 oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
 downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.
 
 So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
 existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
 different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
 carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
 However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
 entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
 flooring.
 
 --
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has 
 no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what is there?

The prefinished stuff is nowhere near as nice as the old oak  (or 
maple) flooring.  Maybe you can find a school that is taking up their 
maple flooring and get then for the hauling if you want to go cheap.


I got some oak flooring out of  house that was being torn down.

I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house.  3 big 
red oak logs.  Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few 
years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw.  (anyone 
remember them?  They used to be quite popular)


The prefinsihed stuff expands after installation, so if you don't 
want the floor to buckle, you have to leave plenty space for 
expansion.



I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
that if necessary.

Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
and cats.

We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
flooring.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I have done real TG oak and maple in about six different houses. This would 
be solid wood, 3/4 thick, tongue and groove flooring, unfinished.

I'm not familiar with a prefinished 3/4 wood product.

I have done engineered flooring, specifically Pergo, in a couple of houses.

My personal preference is for the real thing. While properly installed 
engineered flooring should have no problems with the loads you describe, I 
would again lean towards real wood flooring.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Nov 12, 2014, at 8:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.
 
 Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
 trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
 that if necessary.
 
 Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
 pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
 and cats.
 
 We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
 in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
 connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
 oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
 downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.
 
 So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
 existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
 different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
 carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
 However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
 entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
 flooring.
 
 -- 
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has 
 no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

Hurst Hardwoods for the pre-finished and I think the unfinished, 
build.com for the hickory (although they have other stuff too).  I 
actually can't remember on all of it, would have to pull my receipts and 
check.  Hurst (not Jabba) is in Tampa and were very good and good 
prices.  I can dig up the sales guy's name if you want.


Build.com has been the source for a lot of my stuff and a great seller 
-- very good prices, excellent service, and I have my own sales cutie 
(Brittany) if you want to check on stuff (and I usually beat on them for 
another 5% discount on their already good prices).


http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=SOLPFBC5cat=1516

http://www.build.com/mohawk-industries-wsc36-10/s754252?uid=1890353

http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=4CLRJAT

If you go with oak you might as well just hit Lowes or HD for that 
stuff, or maybe Lumber Liquidators.  See what their prices are. That 
stuff is mostly commodity so prices are fairly cheap.  There is a 
distributor in NChuck I was going to get my stuff from but they changed 
their sales and wouldn't sell to me after saying they would, but it 
turns out Hurst was cheaper anyway, even with some shipping (and no 
Nimrata tax).



--R


On 11/12/14 9:23 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks Rich.

Tell me more about ordering wood on-line.  Website?

-Max

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 9:18 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


I have recently put down 3 floors.  One prefinished brazilian cherry, one
prefinished hickory, and one unfinished brazilian cherry.  These are all
solid wood.  The prefinished brazilian cherry is really nice.  The hickory
is nice but that stuff really moves with moisture and temperature.  The
unfinished is nice too, gotta get it sanded and finished soon.  The
finished stuff goes down fast and is done when it's down.  I don't really
like the engineered stuff for reasons I cannot fully articulate.  Maybe the
nailed-down stuff would be better than the floating.

I have the air nailer if you need to borrow it.  I ordered my flooring
on-line, got good prices.  The local outlets were 2-3X higher for the same
stuff.

--R




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

I particularly hate the 'snare drum' sound of the floating wood-like
floors.  That said, we've got one of those in the kitchen, and are
about to do the same to the boy's room.  (Pet bird, carpets.  You
do the math!)

The thing is, in 20 years (?) when these look like crap they'll
be easy to take up and redo.  It's like carpet in that sense.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

I was concerned about the prefinished stuff too but after researching 
it I determined that the factory finish is much harder and durable than 
what can be put down after a floor is sanded.  The finishes are 
warranteed, for whatever that is worth.  The prefinished hickory I put 
down has a small bevel on the edges of the pieces which deals with any 
minor thickness differences (that would be sanded down on unfinished) 
and so gives some small grooves between boards.  Not too noticeable but 
it is there.  The prefinished jatoba I put down has smaller edge bevels 
and is much smoother.  I like it better.  Prefinished solid can be 
sanded when necessary so that aspect is the same.  On the engineered 
stuff you gotta be really careful as the actual wood is not very thick.  
The prefinished is standard TG so no different from regular flooring 
material.  Goes down just the same then it is done so cost and timewise 
I think it is a better deal.


I am actually going to check out a floor sander to rent today, and have 
sorta decided on a finish 
http://www.bona.com/en-US/United-States1/BonaSystem/Coatings/Finishes/BonaTraffic/ 
for the jatoba in the kitchen.  Waterborne so not a big stink, and has a 
lot of solids (aluminum oxide I think) for durability.  Looks easy 
enough to put down, basically pour some down then smear it around with a 
pad and it levels itself fairly well.  Sealer goes down first.  The 
jatoba is very hard so sanding tends to be a chore, but Lowes rents a 
sander with 3 random orbit pads, much better than the old drums I have 
used and hated in the past.


--R


On 11/12/14 9:42 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I have done real TG oak and maple in about six different houses. This would be 
solid wood, 3/4 thick, tongue and groove flooring, unfinished.

I'm not familiar with a prefinished 3/4 wood product.

I have done engineered flooring, specifically Pergo, in a couple of houses.

My personal preference is for the real thing. While properly installed 
engineered flooring should have no problems with the loads you describe, I 
would again lean towards real wood flooring.

Dan




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[WILTON via Mercedes]

'Still have my radial arm saw I bought in The Soo 42 years ago.  Also, still 
using the kitchen cabinets it helped me to build, incl. moldings, drawers, 
doors, etc., 26 years ago.  'Filed/shaped the blades for milling the 
moldings to match that existing on doors throughout the house.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered



Why not buy or make your own oak flooring to match what is there?

The prefinished stuff is nowhere near as nice as the old oak  (or maple) 
flooring.  Maybe you can find a school that is taking up their maple 
flooring and get then for the hauling if you want to go cheap.


I got some oak flooring out of  house that was being torn down.

I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house.  3 big red oak 
logs.  Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few years, then 
planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw.  (anyone remember them? 
They used to be quite popular)


The prefinsihed stuff expands after installation, so if you don't want the 
floor to buckle, you have to leave plenty space for expansion.



I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to 
exceed

that if necessary.

Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just 
humans

and cats.

We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got 
tile
in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway 
and

connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new 
wood

flooring.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner 
has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[WILTON via Mercedes]

'Zackly.

BTW, 'sold my last rental 'bout 3 months ago after 35 years as a landlord. 
'Been feelin' a lot better for 3 months, too.  (Had only 28 rentals for 
several years.)  'Same tenant in last one for 34 years.  'Decided years ago, 
though, maybe I'm too nice a guy to be a landlord - for example, don't 
like having to take a tenant to court to get 'im to do what he agreed to do 
in the lease; and on and on.  'Just got tired of the hassle of having to 
babysit irresponsible adults.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
To: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com

Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered



Opinion:

Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to 
a

fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the
area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain 
and
finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of 
replacing

the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years
if kept dry and cared for.

I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had
engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look
cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it 
was

cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said..
I'm solid wood and I look it.

At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I
used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold
them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test.

My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet 
with

new solid wood.

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to 
exceed

that if necessary.

Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just 
humans

and cats.

We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got 
tile
in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway 
and

connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new 
wood

flooring.

--
-
Max
Charleston SC
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner 
has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Since we're on the subject of floors, part of my home is floored with
Brazilian Redwood, which is intersting because no two planks are alike so
it has a quite distincitive look.  The rest of the floors are either faux
oak or real oak.  Anyone have any experience with proper care for the
Brazilian stuff, or a good place to buy more?

On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 10:49 AM, WILTON via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

 'Zackly.

 BTW, 'sold my last rental 'bout 3 months ago after 35 years as a
 landlord. 'Been feelin' a lot better for 3 months, too.  (Had only 28
 rentals for several years.)  'Same tenant in last one for 34 years.
 'Decided years ago, though, maybe I'm too nice a guy to be a landlord -
 for example, don't like having to take a tenant to court to get 'im to do
 what he agreed to do in the lease; and on and on.  'Just got tired of the
 hassle of having to babysit irresponsible adults.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: G Mann via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 9:21 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered


  Opinion:

 Keep the current wood floor you have, which is solid wood, and sand it to
 a
 fresh finish. [there are machines you can rent to do that]. Then match the
 area where you remove carpeting with new solid wood. You can then stain
 and
 finish the whole lot the same for a match, without the expense of
 replacing
 the existing solid wood, which should have a life span of 50 to 100 years
 if kept dry and cared for.

 I have had solid wood floors [installed them myself] and I've had
 engineered wood floors.. I've always found the engineered wood to look
 cheap and beaten after a couple years, regardless of how carefully it
 was
 cared for... solid wood, however just gathered a nice patina that said..
 I'm solid wood and I look it.

 At one time, I owned 42 rentals, all of which I rehabbed and rented.. I
 used engineered wood floors in a lot in them, and regretted it when I sold
 them.. renters are hard use and it showed. Sort of the acid test.

 My vote would be tile and solid oak. Refinish existing, replace carpet
 with
 new solid wood.

 On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 6:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.

 Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
 trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to
 exceed
 that if necessary.

 Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
 pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just
 humans
 and cats.

 We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got
 tile
 in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway
 and
 connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
 oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
 downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.

 So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
 existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
 different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
 carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
 However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
 entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new
 wood
 flooring.

 --
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

  ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

I thihnk that is jatoba or brazilian cherry, which is what I put down.  
Very hard.  Mine does not have a lot of variability but some.  I think 
what you have is a lower grade than what I got.


Do a google but this is where I got mine, both prefinished and 
unfinished.  They ahve a variety of grades and sizes fin/unfin  Look at 
their site.



http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=SOLPFBC5cat=1516

http://hursthardwoods.com/proddetail.php?prod=4CLRJAT

Proper care is usually just a dry mop or I think you can use some type 
of swiffer, you don't want it really wet.


--R


On 11/12/14 11:54 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Since we're on the subject of floors, part of my home is floored with
Brazilian Redwood, which is intersting because no two planks are alike so
it has a quite distincitive look.  The rest of the floors are either faux
oak or real oak.  Anyone have any experience with proper care for the
Brazilian stuff, or a good place to buy more?



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Thanks to all for the input, and Rich thanks for the offer of the nail gun
- I will probably take you up on that.

Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka
Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple,
hickory, birch, or ash.  Oak is not preferred, she likes something with
less grain and very light in color.  We passed on a lot of pre-finished
solid oak flooring that was less than $4 per square foot (SF), and we are
strongly leaning toward a maple floor at $5 per SF.

Also, I do not want the mess and smell of sanding and finishing.  Nail it
down and be done, that sounds the way to go to me. It is a shame to take up
a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types
of flooring - tile and wood -  our home has an open floor plan).

-
Max
Charleston SC
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Wed, 12 Nov 2014 08:38:54 -0600 Curly McLain via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I made my own from logs on the place when I built my house.  3 big 
 red oak logs.  Got em sawed, dried em, air dried the lumber for a few 
 years, then planed and milled the TG on a radial arm saw.  (anyone 
 remember them?  They used to be quite popular)

I still have and use the DeWalt commercial radial arm saw I purchased
used 32 years ago (not quite up to Wilton's 42 years, but ... ).

I even have the molding head I bought from Sears and the guard I bought
at a garage sale.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Clay via Mercedes]

 Paint hides a multitude of sins.  Maybe you can put a coat on the stair parts,

The  choice of wood engineered floor presents a host of questions.  Cheap end 
floor or the more expensive stuff. Some of the really high end laminate is of 
the same durability of solid wood.  Solid wood does require more extensive 
install process and post install finishing.  I would say use at least a three 
coat process for long life.  There is also all the upkeep and normal work that 
the old fashion floors needed.  I think a real wood floor is best in a classic 
home.

Snap together floor goes in really fast, does not need the acclimation process 
or the post install finishing.  Some of it can even be sanded and refinished 
once in about 20 years when  it gets beat up.  It is a floating floor instead 
of being secured to the underlayment and has a pad to reduce squeaks and such.  
It is not as forgiving if it gets soaked.  The base will warp and fall apart.

clay



On Nov 12, 2014, at 4:58 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

 I'll bet at least one person on this list has an opinion on the topic.
 
 Pros and Cons for pre-finished solid wood flooring vs engineered?  We're
 trying to keep the price at $6 / square foot or less, but willing to exceed
 that if necessary.
 
 Major consideration: The new floor must stand up to the weight of three
 pianos, two uprights and one baby grand.  No dogs in the house, just humans
 and cats.
 
 We are trying to decide on new flooring for our downstairs.  We've got tile
 in the kitchen, which we love and aren't going to change.  The entryway and
 connected hallway (and two closets and a half-bathroom) have a solid wood
 oak floor, 20 years old now but holding up nicely.  The rest of the
 downstairs is carpet, which we hate and it MUST GO.
 
 So we've pretty much decided that we'll replace all the carpet and the
 existing oak floor with new wood.  We'd really like to have only two
 different types of flooring downstairs (tile and wood).  The stairwell is
 carpeted, and ideally that is the only place we'll keep carpeting.
 However, the bannisters and faux stair edges are in oak to match the
 entryway.  I think we can live with a mis-match between stairs and new wood
 flooring.
 
 -- 
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has 
 no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

‎Original Message  
From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Reply To: Meade Dillon
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered


Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka
Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple,
hickory, birch, or ash.  Oak is not preferred, she likes something with
less grain and very light in color.  

It is a shame to take up
a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types
of flooring - tile and wood -  our home has an open floor plan).

‎
My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak 
refinished, and contract someone to install more oak. 

However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First of 
all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without turning 
it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo. It has tight 
grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard woods like maple, 
birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker. 

The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there. 

http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Rick,

I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is
included, not sure if they are free or cost.  Yes, I'm planning to take it
up carefully with re-use in mind.

Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple
hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled
against it.  The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys
claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
 On Nov 12, 2014 4:40 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 ‎Original Message
 From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Reply To: Meade Dillon
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered


 Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka
 Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like
 maple,
 hickory, birch, or ash.  Oak is not preferred, she likes something with
 less grain and very light in color.

 It is a shame to take up
 a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two
 types
 of flooring - tile and wood -  our home has an open floor plan).

 ‎
 My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak
 refinished, and contract someone to install more oak.

 However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First
 of all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without
 turning it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo.
 It has tight grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard
 woods like maple, birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker.

 The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there.

 http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html

 Rick
 Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rich Thomas via Mercedes]

There is a girl runs the recycle warehouse who does the recovery.  I 
would come help you, won't take that long with a coupla good-sized crowbars.


I looked into bamboo for the loft, liked it and so did management, but 
prices were all over the map.  I saw some mixed reviews on durability of 
the finish.  Went with the pre-finished jatoba, which I'm happy with.  
I'd go with prefinished maple in a wider board, 4 or 5 if you want 
quick and durable, but unfinished will provide a bit better uniformity 
with more work.


--R





On 11/12/14 5:37 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Rick,

I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is
included, not sure if they are free or cost.  Yes, I'm planning to take it
up carefully with re-use in mind.

Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple
hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled
against it.  The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys
claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
  On Nov 12, 2014 4:40 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:


‎Original Message
From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Reply To: Meade Dillon
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered



Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka
Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like

maple,

hickory, birch, or ash.  Oak is not preferred, she likes something with
less grain and very light in color.
It is a shame to take up
a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two

types

of flooring - tile and wood -  our home has an open floor plan).

‎
My first thoughts on the matter were the same as Grant's. Have the oak
refinished, and contract someone to install more oak.

However, if THE boss says no, then another tack needs to be taken. First
of all, PLEASE Salvage the oak. Have someone or yourself pull it without
turning it into toothpicks. My lighter alternative to oak would be bamboo.
It has tight grain, is light, and should be inexpensive, compared to hard
woods like maple, birch, alder, and ash. Hickory is a bit darker.

The link is just for an example, I have not ordered from there.

http://www.calibamboo.com/bambooflooring.html

Rick
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

‎From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 5:02 PM
To: Mercedes; Rick Knoble
Reply To: Meade Dillon
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

Rick,

I think there is a local group who recycles wood floors and removal is
included, not sure if they are free or cost.  Yes, I'm planning to take it
up carefully with re-use in mind.

That's great. 
‎
Bamboo was considered by the Finance Chair, but the Chief Designer (triple
hatted as the aforementioned Chair and COMHOMELANT) ultimately ruled
against it.  

Too bad. ‎

The colors and texture are good, but one of the sales guys
claimed that it cannot be sanded and re-finished.

If the finish lasts 35-50 years as some warranties suggest, who cares? SWMBO 
WILL change her mind on the flooring in 30 years. 

The salesman gets less commission on the bamboo...

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

TO:  COMHOMELANT
From: COMMIDAM
SUBJECT:  Deciduous Decking
Date:   12 Nov, 2014   18:00 Hrs

COMHOMELANT,
The current quercus rubra deciduous decking must be handled as follows:
1.  thoroughly swab the deck with descending grits of aluminum oxide 
until all old finish is removed.

2. remove all residue from step one with skivvies saturated with turps.
3. Observe the color of the newly swabbed deck.
4.  If the newly swabbed deck is not light enough in color, take 
fresh skivvies and swab with white paint (as used for painting on the 
ship's identity numbers)
5. before the paint is dry, enlist ship's crew to take more fresh 
skivvies and swab the deck until the COMHOMELANT approved color is 
reached.

6.  Give the poor swabbies a break while the paint dries.
7.  Swab the deck with Varithane floor polyurethane using lambswool swabs
8. Repeat step 7 per instructions on the Varithane can
9.  Give the swabbies grub and grog while the Varithane dries.

10.  Report results to COMMIDAM




Thanks to all for the input, and Rich thanks for the offer of the nail gun
- I will probably take you up on that.

Regarding keeping the existing oak floor, COMHOMELANT (aka SWMBO, aka
Chairman of the Finance Committee) would really like something like maple,
hickory, birch, or ash.  Oak is not preferred, she likes something with
less grain and very light in color.  We passed on a lot of pre-finished
solid oak flooring that was less than $4 per square foot (SF), and we are
strongly leaning toward a maple floor at $5 per SF.

Also, I do not want the mess and smell of sanding and finishing.  Nail it
down and be done, that sounds the way to go to me. It is a shame to take up
a perfectly good floor, but it's required to meet the goal (only two types
of flooring - tile and wood -  our home has an open floor plan).

-
Max
Charleston SC


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood Floors - solid wood vs. engineered

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

AF designation would be CINCHOME.  'Hope all are well.   ;)


Civvy interpretation would be Complainer In Chief, Home?

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has no 
control over the content of the messages of each contributor.

[MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[Rich Thomas]

I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry. Having 
run several boards through the jointer I now have a large trash barrel 
full of shavings, which smells really good.  But I am pained to just 
dump it in a pile out back, as I have done in the past, and was trying 
to figure out how best to use it for BBQ smoke.  IN the past I have also 
wet it down and thrown it in, which is sorta OK but it does not last 
long.ccI got to thinking that making some kind of pellets or charcoal 
chunks or something would be fun.  I have been trying to figure out how 
best to do that, of course using low-tech/no-tech techniques.  There's 
gotta be something good to do with it and condense it down some.


Ideas from all you tinkerers?


BTW it makes a really nice sweet smoke and a great flavor on the meat.  
I do have a lot of cut-offs and chunks too, which work pretty well.


--R



___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[G Mann]

I have a large BBQ and also a large smoker. For both of them I bought at
the local BBQ supply store [specialty shop that only sells BBQ's , parts,
and all the frick and frack you would possibly want or use with BBQ's] a
nice little metal wood smoke box.  It is a box with a lid that has holes
to let out wood smoke but not enough to support fire so the wood cooks to
ash while it sends out flavors.

Instructions say to soak the wood chips in water overnight before using,
which I do, to great success. You might want to look into one of them.
Or two.  Because of the size of my smoker, I'm wanting more flavor smoke
so likely will add another to drop in the firebox after the first one
exhausts it's stuff.


On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 8:32 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry. Having
 run several boards through the jointer I now have a large trash barrel full
 of shavings, which smells really good.  But I am pained to just dump it in
 a pile out back, as I have done in the past, and was trying to figure out
 how best to use it for BBQ smoke.  IN the past I have also wet it down and
 thrown it in, which is sorta OK but it does not last long.ccI got to
 thinking that making some kind of pellets or charcoal chunks or something
 would be fun.  I have been trying to figure out how best to do that, of
 course using low-tech/no-tech techniques.  There's gotta be something good
 to do with it and condense it down some.

 Ideas from all you tinkerers?


 BTW it makes a really nice sweet smoke and a great flavor on the meat.  I
 do have a lot of cut-offs and chunks too, which work pretty well.

 --R



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[Fmiser]

 Rich wrote:
 
 I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry.
 Having run several boards through the jointer I now have a large
 trash barrel full of shavings, which smells really good.  But I
 am pained to just dump it in a pile out back, as I have done in
 the past, and was trying to figure out how best to use it for BBQ
 smoke.  IN the past I have also wet it down and thrown it in,
 which is sorta OK but it does not last long.  

2/3 Hickory and 1/3 cherry is one of my favorite smokes.  I use the
shavings by putting them in an old cookie tin that I drilled a
couple 1/4 inch (7 mm) holes in the lid.  When I set this on the
charcoal, the shavings heat up enough to give off their smoke but
don't burn.

 I have been trying to figure out how best to do that, of course
 using low-tech/no-tech techniques.  There's gotta be something
 good to do with it and condense it down some.

I just store mine in big trash bags.  I probably have 10 year
supply.  It is important that the shavings are well dried before
storing.

--  Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[Rich Thomas]

I filled another big trash bag so far with shavings from the planer, it 
is good and dry.  I'll probably put the stuff in the barrel in some bags 
too just to make it easier to deal with.  I have some hickory I got in 
KY too, slabs from what the Amish were milling, I do a mix with some oak 
too, it is all good.


I was thinking to use a smoke box of some kind, I have one of those cast 
iron ones for the gas grill but it is kinda small.  I need a bigger 
something for the smoker, maybe I will make some kind of attachment for it.


--R


On 2/25/14 1:11 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Rich wrote:

I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry.
Having run several boards through the jointer I now have a large
trash barrel full of shavings, which smells really good.  But I
am pained to just dump it in a pile out back, as I have done in
the past, and was trying to figure out how best to use it for BBQ
smoke.  IN the past I have also wet it down and thrown it in,
which is sorta OK but it does not last long.

2/3 Hickory and 1/3 cherry is one of my favorite smokes.  I use the
shavings by putting them in an old cookie tin that I drilled a
couple 1/4 inch (7 mm) holes in the lid.  When I set this on the
charcoal, the shavings heat up enough to give off their smoke but
don't burn.


I have been trying to figure out how best to do that, of course
using low-tech/no-tech techniques.  There's gotta be something
good to do with it and condense it down some.

I just store mine in big trash bags.  I probably have 10 year
supply.  It is important that the shavings are well dried before
storing.

--  Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[clay]

Wrap the wetted wood shavings in foil, then put them in the smoker.  Poking 
holes in the foil will let the smoke out.  Bigger chunks will smoke longer.  If 
you have small stuff, make a few packets and put fresh in as needed

clay

On Feb 25, 2014, at 7:32 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 I am milling up a bunch of cherry wood for my kitchen cabinetry. Having run 
 several boards through the jointer I now have a large trash barrel full of 
 shavings, which smells really good.  But I am pained to just dump it in a 
 pile out back, as I have done in the past, and was trying to figure out how 
 best to use it for BBQ smoke.  IN the past I have also wet it down and thrown 
 it in, which is sorta OK but it does not last long.ccI got to thinking that 
 making some kind of pellets or charcoal chunks or something would be fun.  I 
 have been trying to figure out how best to do that, of course using 
 low-tech/no-tech techniques.  There's gotta be something good to do with it 
 and condense it down some.
 
 Ideas from all you tinkerers?
 
 
 BTW it makes a really nice sweet smoke and a great flavor on the meat.  I do 
 have a lot of cut-offs and chunks too, which work pretty well.
 
 --R
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT Wood shavings -- BBQ

[Fmiser]

 clay wrote:
 
 Wrap the wetted wood shavings in foil, then put them in the
 smoker.  Poking holes in the foil will let the smoke out.  Bigger
 chunks will smoke longer.  If you have small stuff, make a few
 packets and put fresh in as needed

This works well too.  I suggest heavy duty foil, and only poke 1 to
3 holes.  The objective is to let the smoke out - but not let
enough air in to allow the shaving to burn.

--  Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Donald Snook]

Mitch wrote: I know there are some woodworkers on the list. I just bought some 
 10 year old wild cherry . . .

This reminds me of something I was going to ask the list members.  Which 
members are REALLY into woodworking?  My uncle has been into Woodworking for 
years.  He built a boat, he builds all sorts of things and is very 
knowledgeable.  Also, my father has gotten into woodworking.  When his wife (my 
stepmother) died back in July, he really threw himself into it.  He has now 
turned his whole garage into a woodworking shop.  The reason I am asking is I 
wonder if several of you would like to form a little woodworking group.  I 
don't mean a forum like Okie Benz.  I was just thinking that my father and my 
uncle might like to email and discuss woodworking issues with other like-minded 
folks.  My Uncle would probably be a great addition to this board, except he 
doesn't have his Mercedes anymore.  He had a 250 (I think) for 30 years and did 
basically all of his own work.

Anyway, if there are some of you that are really into woodworking, send me your 
email OFFLIST and I will try to send out a group email including my father and 
Uncle.


Donald H. Snook
2004 Jaguar XJR (WOW THIS IS FAST)
2010 Dodge Charger (Her car)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Mitch Haley]

I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had 
sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had been 
getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from shrinkage.


My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It says 
0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old kiln 
dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.


I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet doors 
I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that I'll have 
shrinkage problems?


Mitch.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Max Dillon]

Believe your meter.  Wood will stabilize at a particular moisture level 
depending on local humidity levels, process takes a matter of weeks.  

If you can, move the cherry wood into the building where the final product 
(cabinets) will reside, let it sit for a couple weeks, then make your cabinets. 
 You shouldn't have any issues.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered
and had 
sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
been 
getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
shrinkage.

My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
says 
0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old
kiln 
dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
doors 
I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
I'll have 
shrinkage problems?

Mitch.


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Gerry Archer]

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered
and had
sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
been
getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
shrinkage.
My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It 
says

0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old
kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
doors
I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
I'll have shrinkage problems?
Mitch.

.

Buying Cabinet-Quality Lumber

The wood used for furniture and other fine projects differs in many ways 
from lumberyard 2x4s.
The first thing to realize about cabinet-quality lumber is that the rules 
you probably know about ordering dimension lumber (the type you use for 
carpentry work) don't apply. Sizing, grading, ordering -- they're all 
different. Also keep in mind that except for a few white pines, redwood, and 
cedar, most of the time you'll be working with hardwoods.
Understanding Moisture Content All cabinet-grade lumber begins as a green 
board that's been mill-sawed from a freshly felled tree. The moisture 
content of a green board will be 28 percent or greater, making it unsuitable 
for woodworking because all wood shrinks, warps, and splits as it dries.
Air-drying reduces the moisture content naturally -- workers stack the slabs 
in such a way that air circulates between the separated layers of boards. 
Air-drying lowers the moisture level to between 12 and 17 percent. (This is 
acceptable for outdoor construction, but don't make any interior projects 
using air-dried material.)
Kiln-drying takes over where air-drying leaves off. Large oven-like kilns 
with carefully controlled temperatures reduce the moisture content to 
between 6 and 9 percent, the ideal range for interior projects.
With few exceptions, retail hardwood dealers sell only kiln-dried lumber. 
It's stored and sold indoors under a roof where the elements won't affect 
it.
When you purchase kiln-dried lumber, store it indoors lying flat on dry 
sticks of scrap or hardboard. Never lay it directly on concrete because it 
will absorb excess moisture.


 http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/buying-cabinet-quality-lumber/ 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[G Mann]

From my experience, end splits are normal for air dried lumber. The ends
get more air and sun exposure and dry relatively faster than deeper in the
pile. You have to count it in as waste, sorry to say.

At that moisture content with the wood stacked and sticked you should be
good. As for the boards split from shrinkage, they would still produce
workable wood if you can cut the sizes you need from the solid parts. Bring
it a little closer to the computer so I can have a look at it.. ;))). You
judgement call on that of course.

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 7:18 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
 I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and
 had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
 gets.
 There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
 been getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
 shrinkage.

 My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
 says 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year
 old kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

 I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
 doors I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
 I'll have shrinkage problems?

 Mitch.


 __**_
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives 
 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Rich Thomas]

Ideally you want to paint the ends with a waxy sealer stuff that keeps 
the end grain from wicking moisture out faster than it escapes from the 
edges and faces.  Seldom done so you end up with a few inches each end 
that are waste from the cracks/splits.  Now if that is cherry, hickory, 
oak or other wood like that, you can enjoy it with some tasty Q.


--R (who has a good supply of Q wood)

On 3/15/13 11:55 AM, G Mann wrote:

From my experience, end splits are normal for air dried lumber. The ends
get more air and sun exposure and dry relatively faster than deeper in the
pile. You have to count it in as waste, sorry to say.

At that moisture content with the wood stacked and sticked you should be
good. As for the boards split from shrinkage, they would still produce
workable wood if you can cut the sizes you need from the solid parts. Bring
it a little closer to the computer so I can have a look at it.. ;))). You
judgement call on that of course.

Grant...

On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 7:18 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and
had sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it
gets.
There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had
been getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from
shrinkage.

My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It
says 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year
old kiln dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.

I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet
doors I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that
I'll have shrinkage problems?

Mitch.


__**_
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives 
http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: wood moisture

[Dan Penoff]

From someone who used to buy 400 BF loads of red oak from the people who owned 
the trees

Splitting during drying is normal and part of the process.  There are ways of 
treating the wood prior to drying that can minimize this, but unless you're 
doing some serious milling it's not usually worthwhile.  People who want large 
chucks of wood, such as turning stock, will treat lumber before drying so the 
pieces don't split.  For regular board stock it's just not economical to do in 
most cases.

The value you gave for moisture doesn't mean much without taking other factors 
into account, such as relative (ambient) humidity, the location, and if the 
board has been acclimated or seasoned.  7% is a good number for lumber that is 
about to be worked. I find it difficult to imagine it's 0.5%, unless it's been 
really cold and dry around there.

For maximum stability you want to have the lumber in the environment it's going 
to be worked in for at least a week, more if it's unheated or a basement with 
exposed concrete floors.  Never, ever stack lumber on a concrete floor, as it 
will absorb moisture from the concrete.

As for shrinkage, there are ways you can minimize this depending on how you 
work the wood.  With pieces as small as 1 x 3, I can't imagine you will have 
any problems with shrinkage.  It's when you start using larger panels or do 
some large glue-ups that you will see issue with shrinkage if the wood is not 
dry enough.  I have one of my first large furniture projects, a raised panel 
blanket chest, that has a split panel in it because of two things - the wood 
wasn't dry enough, and I didn't leave room in the stiles and rails for the 
panel to expand and contract.  Lesson learned.

If by some chance your lumber is truly at 0.5% moisture content you would have 
more to fear due to swelling than shrinkage, especially if the cabinets are 
going into areas such as a kitchen or bathroom.  However, I still think you 
have nothing to worry about as long as you stabilize the lumber prior to 
working it.  Pieces as small as you describe have little chance of splitting.

To minimize even the remotest possibility of splitting, stay away from board 
ends, that is, cut a good 3-4 off of the ends of the boards before you 
measure out and cut for your pieces.  Yes, it's waste, but you can always 
figure on a minimum of 10% waste on any lumber project, like it or not.

Dan

On Mar 15, 2013, at 10:18 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 I know there are some woodworkers on the list.
 I just bought some  10 year old wild cherry, it was fully stickered and had 
 sheets of steel roofing laid on it. The seller said it's as dry as it gets.
 There were spots of ice on the ends of some of the boards, so snow had been 
 getting under there. 1/4 of the boards in the pile were split from shrinkage.
 
 My dad bought one of those $13 Tool Shop moisture meters at Menards. It says 
 0.5% on one of my cherry boards. It also reads 0.5% on a three year old kiln 
 dried 2x4. I'm thinking that's not a credible number.
 
 I need to make 1x3s from this wood for stiles and rails on some cabinet doors 
 I'm making with 1/4 cherry plywood centers. What are the odds that I'll have 
 shrinkage problems?
 
 Mitch.
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[andrew strasfogel]

Locust and oak are totally awesome firewood for wood stoves.

On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Depends on the species of oak.  Red oak is easy to split.  White oak is a
little tougher.   i did so little black oak and other species, that i
can't
remember about them.  I think black oak was tough. - I would always split
what I could with a double bit axe, cause it is 8 oz heavier than most
single bits.  the next step for what would not split with an axe was the
maul.  If I could not pop it with the maul, then I went to the maul and
wedges.  Really knotty stuff, sometimes I'd saw it up a little first.  It
is easier to split 10-12 inch lengths than 24 lengths

I never used a hydraulic splitter, so i don't know how the productivity
factors differ.

At 11:38 AM 4/2/2007, you wrote:

I stumbled onto a deal to get something like 3 full cords of oak for
free.
I hauled about a cord of it last weekend and spent a little time
splitting
some.
I'd always wondered why splitting mauls were so popular. For splitting
spruce or poplar a good axe is much better than a maul but in that oak
the
maul is the way to go.
My axe still does a good job but with so much wood to go through a maul
is
probably worth picking up.

My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much faster
by hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original

The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day
with a
maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the
chain
saw.  They suck.

Mike


-
The fish are biting.
  Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Loren Faeth


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[R A Bennell]

How does your insurance company feel about a wood stove? 

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 1:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


Locust and oak are totally awesome firewood for wood stoves.

On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Depends on the species of oak.  Red oak is easy to split.  White oak is a
 little tougher.   i did so little black oak and other species, that i
 can't
 remember about them.  I think black oak was tough. - I would always split
 what I could with a double bit axe, cause it is 8 oz heavier than most
 single bits.  the next step for what would not split with an axe was the
 maul.  If I could not pop it with the maul, then I went to the maul and
 wedges.  Really knotty stuff, sometimes I'd saw it up a little first.  It
 is easier to split 10-12 inch lengths than 24 lengths

 I never used a hydraulic splitter, so i don't know how the productivity
 factors differ.

 At 11:38 AM 4/2/2007, you wrote:

 I stumbled onto a deal to get something like 3 full cords of oak for
 free.
 I hauled about a cord of it last weekend and spent a little time
 splitting
 some.
 I'd always wondered why splitting mauls were so popular. For splitting
 spruce or poplar a good axe is much better than a maul but in that oak
 the
 maul is the way to go.
 My axe still does a good job but with so much wood to go through a maul
 is
 probably worth picking up.
 
 My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much faster
 by hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400
 From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
   reply-type=original
 
 The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day
 with a
 maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the
 chain
 saw.  They suck.
 
 Mike
 
 
 -
 The fish are biting.
   Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 Loren Faeth


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[andrew strasfogel]

They didn't mind until I had a creosote fire (from burning too much pine)
that cracked the chimney.  Then they made us line the chimneys at great
expen$e.

In the new house we only have a fireplace, and SWMBO likes it the way it is
unless I can find a really good looking FP insert.

On 4/3/07, R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


How does your insurance company feel about a wood stove?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 1:50 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


Locust and oak are totally awesome firewood for wood stoves.

On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Depends on the species of oak.  Red oak is easy to split.  White oak is
a
 little tougher.   i did so little black oak and other species, that i
 can't
 remember about them.  I think black oak was tough. - I would always
split
 what I could with a double bit axe, cause it is 8 oz heavier than most
 single bits.  the next step for what would not split with an axe was the
 maul.  If I could not pop it with the maul, then I went to the maul and
 wedges.  Really knotty stuff, sometimes I'd saw it up a little
first.  It
 is easier to split 10-12 inch lengths than 24 lengths

 I never used a hydraulic splitter, so i don't know how the productivity
 factors differ.

 At 11:38 AM 4/2/2007, you wrote:

 I stumbled onto a deal to get something like 3 full cords of oak for
 free.
 I hauled about a cord of it last weekend and spent a little time
 splitting
 some.
 I'd always wondered why splitting mauls were so popular. For splitting
 spruce or poplar a good axe is much better than a maul but in that oak
 the
 maul is the way to go.
 My axe still does a good job but with so much wood to go through a maul
 is
 probably worth picking up.
 
 My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much
faster
 by hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400
 From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
   reply-type=original
 
 The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day
 with a
 maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the
 chain
 saw.  They suck.
 
 Mike
 
 
 -
 The fish are biting.
   Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 Loren Faeth


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

I think this stuff is red oak, the leaves were rounded and the wood has a 
decidedly red color. It splits like a dream.
Even when it splits hard like putting my manual hydralic splitter through a 
branch, it splits pretty easy.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 14:49:47 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Locust and oak are totally awesome firewood for wood stoves.

On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Depends on the species of oak.  Red oak is easy to split.  White oak 
is a
 little tougher.   i did so little black oak and other species, that i
 can't
 remember about them.  I think black oak was tough. - I would always 
split
 what I could with a double bit axe, cause it is 8 oz heavier than 
most
 single bits.  the next step for what would not split with an axe was 
the
 maul.  If I could not pop it with the maul, then I went to the maul 
and
 wedges.  Really knotty stuff, sometimes I'd saw it up a little first.  
It
 is easier to split 10-12 inch lengths than 24 lengths

 I never used a hydraulic splitter, so i don't know how the 
productivity
 factors differ.

 
-
Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peek at the forecast 
 with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Apr 03 21:27:28 2007
Received: from alnrmhc11.comcast.net ([206.18.177.51])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HYqXI-0006SB-Mn
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Tue, 03 Apr 2007 21:27:28 +
Received: from [192.168.0.2]
(c-71-197-225-160.hsd1.wa.comcast.net[71.197.225.160])
by comcast.net (alnrmhc11) with SMTP
id 20070403212718b1100kf04ke; Tue, 3 Apr 2007 21:27:19 +
Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v752.2)
In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
References: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
From: Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 14:27:27 -0700
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.752.2)
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SD lust w116
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2007 21:27:29 -

Mad dash through all the possible models when she comes home trying  
to describe a really Cute benz she saw.  Really likes the lines and  
would be interested in driving that model.  Spend some time tracking  
it down and then find some available, to have her decide she really  
did not want one that badly and .

Tease, that is what it is, a darn mean TEASE Taunt me with the  
possibility of getting another diesel, dangle that in front of me,  
and then yank it away!

On the other hand, I do show up with homeless benz and expect her to  
be happy and make a home for them

On Apr 3, 2007, at 11:26 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 whoa dude - you sound bitter...

 On 3/30/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 annoyed

 she who must be annoyed

 Or appeased

 chamberlain and all that nazi nonsense

 On Mar 30, 2007, at 6:27 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 SWMBA = She Who Must Be ??

 I was only aware of SWMBO (O=obeyed)

 On 3/29/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/car/300468487.html

 Would drag this home to surprise SWMBA, but that would reduce
 conjugal bliss.  1979 has issues, but only $950

 no affiliation




 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

Better about the Jotul I put in than the Vogelzang cheapie that was here 
before...

A good quality properly installed woodstove is no danger to a house.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 14:30:44 -0500
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

How does your insurance company feel about a wood stove? 

Randy



 
-
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and 
always stay connected to friends.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Apr 03 22:43:26 2007
Received: from host337.ipowerweb.com ([72.22.69.22])
by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED])
id 1HYrin-0004de-ON
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:43:25 +
Received: (qmail 91632 invoked from network); 3 Apr 2007 22:41:54 -
Received: from unknown (HELO ?127.0.0.1?) (206.109.43.202)
by host337.ipowerweb.com with SMTP; 3 Apr 2007 22:41:54 -
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2007 17:43:33 -0500
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5.0.10 (Windows/20070221)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
References: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2007 22:43:26 -

Where I lived the Fire Dept had to give you some sort of certificate, 
and of course the bldg inspector had to have his palm greased, er, I 
mean, permits issued.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:
 Better about the Jotul I put in than the Vogelzang cheapie that was here 
 before...

 A good quality properly installed woodstove is no danger to a house.

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 14:30:44 -0500
 From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 How does your insurance company feel about a wood stove? 

 Randy



  
 -
 Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and 
 always stay connected to friends.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


   

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

Wet pine in a chimney that wasn't lined or properly cleaned...

The chimney here has a fancy masonry liner that was installed for the crappy 
woodstove that was here.
Amazing, the liner must have cost thousands of dollars to install. The stove 
must have cost about $100 then they were too dumb to put in the proper 6 flue 
hole. They put a 4 hole with a sizing pipe, filled the basement with smoke.

I cut the hole the right size, put in a thimble (the old piece was just a 4 
pipe into the hole) and bought a good stove. Heats the house real nice. In the 
fall I'll have a sweep check it out but based on one season of burning just 
hardwood and burning it HOT I'm not worried.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 16:50:54 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

They didn't mind until I had a creosote fire (from burning too much 
pine)
that cracked the chimney.  Then they made us line the chimneys at great
expen$e.

In the new house we only have a fireplace, and SWMBO likes it the way 
it is
unless I can find a really good looking FP insert.

 
-
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and 
always stay connected to friends.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Apr 03 23:10:29 2007
Received: from ms-smtp-04.southeast.rr.com ([24.25.9.103])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HYs8z-0006IK-Ob
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Tue, 03 Apr 2007 23:10:29 +
Received: from computer (cpe-069-134-169-178.nc.res.rr.com [69.134.169.178])
by ms-smtp-04.southeast.rr.com (8.13.6/8.13.6) with SMTP id
l33NA4Gt022038
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Tue, 3 Apr 2007 19:10:23 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 19:08:29 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106
X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: [MBZ] Freightliner motor home and  watch pockets
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2007 23:10:30 -

Re: the 55-yr-old wrist Elgin; I doubt that it has EVER been worth much
MONEY.  It's greatest worth to me has been the giver's (my brother) thought
and expression of care for me.

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

I stumbled onto a deal to get something like 3 full cords of oak for free.
I hauled about a cord of it last weekend and spent a little time splitting some.
I'd always wondered why splitting mauls were so popular. For splitting spruce 
or poplar a good axe is much better than a maul but in that oak the maul is the 
way to go.
My axe still does a good job but with so much wood to go through a maul is 
probably worth picking up.

My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much faster by 
hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day 
with a 
maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the 
chain 
saw.  They suck.

Mike

 
-
The fish are biting.
 Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Apr 02 16:56:49 2007
Received: from sccmmhc91.asp.att.net ([204.127.203.211])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HYPpn-0004f3-UM
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Mon, 02 Apr 2007 16:56:48 +
Received: from lono2.leadingchange.com
(12-216-11-137.client.mchsi.com[12.216.11.137])
by sccmmhc91.asp.att.net (sccmmhc91) with SMTP
id 20070402165641m9100bck2oe; Mon, 2 Apr 2007 16:56:41 +
Message-Id: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 6.2.0.14
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2007 11:56:27 -0500
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
References: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2007 16:56:49 -

Depends on the species of oak.  Red oak is easy to split.  White oak is a 
little tougher.   i did so little black oak and other species, that i can't 
remember about them.  I think black oak was tough. - I would always split 
what I could with a double bit axe, cause it is 8 oz heavier than most 
single bits.  the next step for what would not split with an axe was the 
maul.  If I could not pop it with the maul, then I went to the maul and 
wedges.  Really knotty stuff, sometimes I'd saw it up a little first.  It 
is easier to split 10-12 inch lengths than 24 lengths

I never used a hydraulic splitter, so i don't know how the productivity 
factors differ.

At 11:38 AM 4/2/2007, you wrote:

I stumbled onto a deal to get something like 3 full cords of oak for free.
I hauled about a cord of it last weekend and spent a little time splitting 
some.
I'd always wondered why splitting mauls were so popular. For splitting 
spruce or poplar a good axe is much better than a maul but in that oak the 
maul is the way to go.
My axe still does a good job but with so much wood to go through a maul is 
probably worth picking up.

My manual splitter just sits by its lonesome, I can split so much faster 
by hand and at the same time I'm making the jiggly go away...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:16:34 -0400
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original

The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day
with a
maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the
chain
saw.  They suck.

Mike


-
The fish are biting.
  Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Loren Faeth 

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Richard Smith]

Its 4' high by 50' by 18.

On 3/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
 split a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

So, would that be 6 'face cords'?  I borrowed a neighbor's splitter,
and in the time I have daily to use it it takes me a couple of weeks
to do our 8-10 full cords, maybe 25 face cords.  Rental over that
period of time is a whole lot less attractive.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Richard Smith]

I did split some locust wood with it. sections that were 18 long and maybe
10-12 across. That is some tough wood! It split it with no problem, but you
had to run the splitter all the way throught  it. That wood just does not
want to come apart. It sure burns good, hot, and long though.

Did not have any big knots. Not sure it would have been able to split that
or not.


On 3/29/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Give it a big ole locust knot and see how it does.  That always seems to
be
a good test of a splitter.  Let it set for a season first if ye really
want
to test it;)

Mike



- Original Message -
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
split
 a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

 That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

 I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
 Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even
 cross
 crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
 probably do anything you want.


 On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
 Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
 2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
 that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
 unless they're a whole lot more than that.

 Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
 spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

 -- Jim


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
 Midwest City, Oklahoma
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mike Canfield]

Yep, that's just over 6 face cord.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters



Its 4' high by 50' by 18.

On 3/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
 split a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

So, would that be 6 'face cords'?  I borrowed a neighbor's splitter,
and in the time I have daily to use it it takes me a couple of weeks
to do our 8-10 full cords, maybe 25 face cords.  Rental over that
period of time is a whole lot less attractive.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mike Canfield]

The straight grained locust splits nice.  I will split that all day with a 
maul...Knots, on the other hand usually get hacked up with the chain 
saw.  They suck.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters



I did split some locust wood with it. sections that were 18 long and maybe
10-12 across. That is some tough wood! It split it with no problem, but 
you

had to run the splitter all the way throught  it. That wood just does not
want to come apart. It sure burns good, hot, and long though.

Did not have any big knots. Not sure it would have been able to split that
or not.


On 3/29/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Give it a big ole locust knot and see how it does.  That always seems to
be
a good test of a splitter.  Let it set for a season first if ye really
want
to test it;)

Mike



- Original Message -
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
split
 a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

 That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

 I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
 Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even
 cross
 crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
 probably do anything you want.


 On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
 Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
 2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
 that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
 unless they're a whole lot more than that.

 Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
 spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

 -- Jim


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
 Midwest City, Oklahoma
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[andrew strasfogel]

Frozen hemlock knots will supposedly shatter a splitting axe.  Try that too.

On 3/29/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Give it a big ole locust knot and see how it does.  That always seems to
be
a good test of a splitter.  Let it set for a season first if ye really
want
to test it;)

Mike



- Original Message -
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
split
 a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

 That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

 I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
 Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even
 cross
 crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
 probably do anything you want.


 On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
 Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
 2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
 that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
 unless they're a whole lot more than that.

 Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
 spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

 -- Jim


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
 Midwest City, Oklahoma
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mike Canfield]

I'll tell you what..I don't want to piss off the guy that can swing a 
splitting axe hard enough to shatter it!!  I believe those knots to be hard 
but I think some one was exaggerating just a wee bit


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


Frozen hemlock knots will supposedly shatter a splitting axe.  Try that 
too.


On 3/29/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Give it a big ole locust knot and see how it does.  That always seems to
be
a good test of a splitter.  Let it set for a season first if ye really
want
to test it;)

Mike



- Original Message -
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters


I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
 afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can
split
 a
 stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

 That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

 I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
 Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even
 cross
 crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
 probably do anything you want.


 On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
 Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
 2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
 that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
 unless they're a whole lot more than that.

 Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
 spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

 -- Jim


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 --
 OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
 Midwest City, Oklahoma
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Richard Smith]

I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split a
stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even cross
crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
probably do anything you want.


On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
unless they're a whole lot more than that.

Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Jim Cathey]

I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can 
split a

stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.


So, would that be 6 'face cords'?  I borrowed a neighbor's splitter,
and in the time I have daily to use it it takes me a couple of weeks
to do our 8-10 full cords, maybe 25 face cords.  Rental over that
period of time is a whole lot less attractive.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mike Canfield]

Give it a big ole locust knot and see how it does.  That always seems to be 
a good test of a splitter.  Let it set for a season first if ye really want 
to test it;)


Mike



- Original Message - 
From: Richard Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters



I rent a 30 ton splitter once a year for $60 a day. Rent it Saturday
afternoon and have to return it Monday morning when they open. I can split 
a

stack 4' high by 50' in the time I have the splitter.

That way I don't have to maintain the splitter or store it.

I have split every type of wood you can find in Oklahoma Pine, Oak,
Hickory... you name it that 30 ton press goes through it. It will even 
cross

crush softer wood up to about 6'' in diameter. I think the 30 ton will
probably do anything you want.


On 3/23/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Need to do this sooner or later, and I have a 15% coupon at HF.
Their flier had a 30-ton unit.  Has a 9HP Robin and a 16 GPM pump,
2-speed, and a 24 stroke.  $1300 (before discount).  Any likelihood
that this will be a decent enough unit?  They're all about $1k,
unless they're a whole lot more than that.

Preliminary results with the new Kill-A-Watt indicate that we're
spending about 6 cents/day for heat.  Plus wood.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
OK Richard 1987 300D 193k with miles and miles to go!!!
Midwest City, Oklahoma
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

Thats an outstanding deal. I got a cord for $175 last fall and thought it was a 
good deal.
Around here most places are getting $200 a cord.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 17:13:20 -0400
From: Kris Gilmore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

At 10:42 AM 3/24/2007, Jim wrote:
  A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.

And by full, I mean FULL.  Mounded up above the roof height
in the center, all the way back.

  {snip)

  A thrown cord of 18 long wood is about 180 cubic ft,  of 
24  length about 195, and when stacked 128.

  A seasoned cord usually weighs between 2500 and 3500 pounds 
depending on species.  The heavy stuff is best.

  Live within ten miles of me and I will dump a full two cord 
load on you for $150.

  Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV

  Not satisfied with defiling one another in this world, we would 
all go to heaven together.











 
-
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Mar 25 01:55:14 2007
Received: from an-out-0708.google.com ([209.85.132.249])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HVHww-0005RM-0N
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sun, 25 Mar 2007 01:55:14 +
Received: by an-out-0708.google.com with SMTP id b6so1708999ana
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 18:55:07 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by 10.100.124.5 with SMTP id w5mr3904394anc.1174787707250;
Sat, 24 Mar 2007 18:55:07 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by 10.100.228.13 with HTTP; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 18:55:07 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 18:55:07 -0700
From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MIME-Version: 1.0
References: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp2
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Veedubs
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 01:55:14 -

You may need to add two or even three more zeros to that figure, nowadays.
That era VW commands a real premium.

On 3/23/07, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'll give you $100 cash for any of them that still run.

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mike Canfield]

We burn a good 5-6 cords a winter.  I split it all by hand.  Keeps me from 
getting too lazy.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters



10 cords, each measuring 8' long by 4' tall by 4' deep.

I'll burn 2 - 3 cords at the house every winter. I hand split my wood
one winter -  I know I spent 4 hours / week for at least 3
months

But I guess it was good for me.

Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com


Original Message
From: John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 03/23/07 11:27 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Rich Thomas wrote:

You guys are total wimps.  Big sledge hammer and a wedge, or a maul.
It wahms ya twice as they say down Maine.


I believe Jim mentioned 10 cords (that term is pretty meaningless to
me, other than a lot) of wood...

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Jim Cathey]

you can power the pump by your unimog pto or a motor the next piece is 
a 3

or 4 inch hydraulic cylinder.  The rest you can build from scrap.


Was going to build my own, but got employed.  There's just not
enough spare time to do this, versus just buying something.


If its good straight wood I can split about half a cord in 8 hours.


Tamarack splits if you just look at it funny.  The fir usually
pops nicely with a whack or two of the axe.  The ponderosa pine,
the bulk of what we get, is twisty and has to be forced apart.
Splits like elm, burns like pine.  Oh, and for whatever reason
a pine fire still has a few coals in the morning, fir will be
completely dead.  So I make sure to stoke up in the evening
with pine.

My wife and I together using the manual splitter can cut split and 
stack a quarter cord (approximately, whatever fits in one pickup load 
anyway)

in about 4 hours which I think is pretty impressive.


A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Mitch Haley]

Jim Cathey wrote:
 A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.

... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4'
http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Craig McCluskey]

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 22:19:31 -0500 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim Cathey wrote:
  A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.
 
 ... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4'
 http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm

But since a piece of plywood (4' x 8') can lie flat between the wheel
wells, a pickup bed is wider than four feet. So it doesn't have to be
quite 4' high.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[LarryT]

Jim Cathey wrote:

A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.


I believe that's what they call a face cord - it has the width and height 
of a cord but not the depth.
The depth only goes as far as one stick of wood - about 25 long.  where a 
full cord is 3 X's that deep.

IIRC - YMMV
;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters





Jim Cathey wrote:

A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.


... if you can pile it to an average depth of 4'
http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/cord.htm

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.17/730 - Release Date: 3/22/2007 
7:44 AM

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Curt Raymond]

Might be in a full sized 3/4 ton pickup... 1/2 ton you can't go full height or 
you'll be draggin the rear end too low to get out of the woods. Ask me how I 
know this, I've got a great story about leaving a muffler in the bush.

I however have a Dodge Dakota which is narrower and only has a 6' bed. I can 
only fill as high as the top of the bed before it also is hanging pretty low. 
It might be close to a half cord but its a long way from a full cord.
My friend sold me a full cord last fall and delivered it in an S10, took him 3 
trips so yeah I guess the Dakota might hold a half.
Sweet, I've got twice as much wood than I thought I did.

-Curt

 My wife and I together using the manual splitter can cut split and 
 stack a quarter cord (approximately, whatever fits in one pickup load 
 anyway)
 in about 4 hours which I think is pretty impressive.

A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.

-- Jim






 
-
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail QA for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sat Mar 24 12:24:23 2007
Received: from web32806.mail.mud.yahoo.com ([68.142.206.36])
by server8.arterytc8.net with smtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HV5IF-0006W1-02
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 12:24:23 +
Received: (qmail 45653 invoked by uid 60001); 24 Mar 2007 12:24:18 -
X-YMail-OSG: 
nT.0_2MVM1ndzdrewXT3QdAnduPJoYsRR.2hEl1nQdh5pBEzc6hrtmsatTZZ7WP2NAEdjkN6ciiWhjooqOKcr9YJH4Mh4Or7xXN7BfwkosptIDGCkHSEPrbaS0S8E1p0rlobG7s6GHPWNhDX.iEOyWDDwA--
Received: from [63.209.226.49] by web32806.mail.mud.yahoo.com via HTTP;
Sat, 24 Mar 2007 05:24:18 PDT
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 05:24:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp2
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Vista
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Archive: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com
List-Post: mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
List-Subscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-List-Received-Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 12:24:23 -


I installed PC Linux OS last night on my spare machine. Very easy install, 
looks awesome too.
Heck with Microsoft...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 22:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Vista
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Any and all,
   
  We installed Vista Home Premium on one of our home computers, and it 
won't let us install security software...it just erases 
it...suggestions?  Do we need to be logged into an admin account or something?
   
  Thanks,


Bruce
82 300CD 348kmi 'His'
85 300CD 253kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' gone to a better place
74 240D 79kmi 'Orangewagen'
73 220D 'Fnu Lnu'

 
-
 Get your own web address.
 Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sat Mar 24 12:37:02 2007
Received: from an-out-0708.google.com ([209.85.132.240])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
(envelope-from [EMAIL PROTECTED]) id 1HV5UT-00070Q-LN
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 12:37:02 +
Received: by an-out-0708.google.com with SMTP id b6so1562089ana
for mercedes@okiebenz.com; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 05:36:58 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by 10.100.57.14 with SMTP id f14mr3433358ana.1174739818367;
Sat, 24 Mar 2007 05:36:58 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by 10.100.167.15 with HTTP; Sat, 24 Mar 2007 05:36:58 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 07:36:58 -0500
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MIME-Version: 1.0
References: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.9.cp2
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Vista
X-BeenThere: mercedes@okiebenz.com
X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.9.cp2
Precedence: list
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_okiebenz.com.okiebenz.com
List-Unsubscribe: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com, 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] OT: Wood Splitters

[Jim Cathey]

A full pickup load is a cord.  Very roughly.


And by full, I mean FULL.  Mounded up above the roof height
in the center, all the way back.  The guys that deliver
commercially usually have plywood sides on the truck.  They
way to do that is to make a reference stack (or ten) then
load the truck.  Once you're used to how a full cord looks
in the truck then you dispense with the reference stacking.



I believe that's what they call a face cord - it has the width and 
height

of a cord but not the depth.


A stack of single sticks of wood 4' high 8' long is a face cord.
Not a particularly useful measure for any commercial purpose.


Might be in a full sized 3/4 ton pickup... 1/2 ton you can't go full
height or you'll be draggin the rear end too low to get ...
Dodge Dakota ... narrower ... 6' bed ... S10 ... 3 trips


I said pickup truck, not grocery getter!  :-)  My Dodge diesel
laughs at such paltry loads.  That pair of concrete barrier blocks
that weighed some 9000# it _did_ notice.

-- Jim