Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-28 Thread Gerry Archer
http://190rev.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37987 

This seems to be pretty good directions for installing the new K1
springs, etc.
Gerry

From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
 Pretty certain that the K1 spring kit is only for 722.3/4 trannies and 
 only fixes the 2-3 flare.
 Have no experience with the 722.1 boxes but flaring can be caused by a 
 slow change over, worn clutches, brake band 2 sticking and perhaps low 
 operating pressure.
 At this stage I would suggest that a rebuild is not in order but a look 
 inside the pan to see if there are metal particles is in order.
 I have had good success with Fuchs titan D3 semi-synthetic ATF.
 Modulator adjustment is related to all gears and while adjustment will 
 mask a problem it does not fix it.
 Shift timing is determined by control pressure, nothing to do with the 
 modulator.
 You really need to find someone who is an expert on these boxes and will 
 not just tell you that you need another box.
 
 Hendrik
 who is losing his sanity trying to get auto boxes to work 100%
 
 Larry T wrote:
 I put one of Rusty's ATs in last summer (by local shop) and  must 
 concur - they are awesome with great prices.

 I may have mentioned this, but my local MB Dealer was willing to 
 install a outside vendor's rebuilt AT  just like the local Indy did 
 (but the dealer wanted $1250 Vs $650).

 When I was talking to Rusty about the AT he said he'd sold thousands 
 over the last ~20 years and had only 3 problems!!  That's incredible!  
 2 of the  problems were the fault of the installer and the other was 
 something external that could be easily repaired.   All 3 problems 
 were minor BTW.

 When I asked the rebuilder what kind of ATF to use he said Dexron 
 III.   I was hoping to use M1 ATF but went with the rebuilder 
 recommendation.  They also say to use 24K ATF change intervals Vs 30K 
 that MB says to use.

 Have a good weekend -
 LarryT
 91 300D

 On 1/27/2012 10:08 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 5:38 AM, Tim Cbb...@crone.us  wrote:

 Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
 makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that 
 might be
 something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)
 Sounds like a really ghastly case of flaring.  Normally you just get a
 little vrrr as the engine revs up a little for an instant during
 upshifts---that condition can often be cured by proper modulator
 adjustment, a fluid change, and running a while with synthetic ATF.
 But the best cure for what you're describing, Tim, is often one of
 Rusty's rebuilt trannies installed by a competent shop (or on your
 own, if you have the right equipment).

 Alex
 On 1/26/2012 4:43 PM, Tim C wrote:
 1) Anyone know if the K1 spring upgrade (126-270-44-77) will fit in a
 722.118?  Rusty wasn't sure, and the internet seems littered with
 folks having this question unanswered. :/
 
 2) My transmission is flaring* and yesterday I realized that, after
 adjusting the accelerator throw some months ago, I didn't adjust the
 pushrod to the transmission's vacuum valve.  I shortened the pushrod a
 bit, and it is a bit better.  I am hoping the trend will continue as I
 make it shorter...
 
 However, this leaves me with two questions:
  a) How likely that I did permanent damage?  I guess I was telling the
 transmission I was always at WOT?  Not really sure what the vacuum
 valve is doing in practice. [Fluid was replaced 8-10 months ago, I'll
 do it again soon anyway since I have a slow leak I want to track
 down.]
  b) Why would it shift early with a pushrod that was too long?  Seems
 like it should be the other way.
 
 *I think it's flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
 through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3, especially if I'm accelerating above
 40%.  If I force it to hold gear with the floor shift, it shifts
 perfectly at a higher RPM.
 
 Thanks!
 -Tim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Larry T

Can't help with the spring questions but you comment about

flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3,

IMO Flaring is when the clutches do not completely engage  quickly - you are 
basically slipping the clutch as it shifts - to put it in Manual Tranny mode -

But that may be what you meant by engine spins ?

LarryT
91 300D


On 1/26/2012 4:43 PM, Tim C wrote:

1) Anyone know if the K1 spring upgrade (126-270-44-77) will fit in a
722.118?  Rusty wasn't sure, and the internet seems littered with
folks having this question unanswered. :/

2) My transmission is flaring* and yesterday I realized that, after
adjusting the accelerator throw some months ago, I didn't adjust the
pushrod to the transmission's vacuum valve.  I shortened the pushrod a
bit, and it is a bit better.  I am hoping the trend will continue as I
make it shorter...

However, this leaves me with two questions:
  a) How likely that I did permanent damage?  I guess I was telling the
transmission I was always at WOT?  Not really sure what the vacuum
valve is doing in practice. [Fluid was replaced 8-10 months ago, I'll
do it again soon anyway since I have a slow leak I want to track
down.]
  b) Why would it shift early with a pushrod that was too long?  Seems
like it should be the other way.

*I think it's flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3, especially if I'm accelerating above
40%.  If I force it to hold gear with the floor shift, it shifts
perfectly at a higher RPM.

Thanks!
-Tim
a newbie in so many ways :)

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Tim C
On Jan 27, 2012 7:16 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 Can't help with the spring questions but you comment about


 flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
 through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3,

 IMO Flaring is when the clutches do not completely engage  quickly - you
are basically slipping the clutch as it shifts - to put it in Manual Tranny
mode -

 But that may be what you meant by engine spins ?

Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that might be
something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)

I haven't driven a stick in at least 20 years, so I don't remember if the
engine revs in the scenario you describe?

Thanks,
Tim

 LarryT
 91 300D



 On 1/26/2012 4:43 PM, Tim C wrote:

 1) Anyone know if the K1 spring upgrade (126-270-44-77) will fit in a
 722.118?  Rusty wasn't sure, and the internet seems littered with
 folks having this question unanswered. :/

 2) My transmission is flaring* and yesterday I realized that, after
 adjusting the accelerator throw some months ago, I didn't adjust the
 pushrod to the transmission's vacuum valve.  I shortened the pushrod a
 bit, and it is a bit better.  I am hoping the trend will continue as I
 make it shorter...

 However, this leaves me with two questions:
  a) How likely that I did permanent damage?  I guess I was telling the
 transmission I was always at WOT?  Not really sure what the vacuum
 valve is doing in practice. [Fluid was replaced 8-10 months ago, I'll
 do it again soon anyway since I have a slow leak I want to track
 down.]
  b) Why would it shift early with a pushrod that was too long?  Seems
 like it should be the other way.

 *I think it's flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
 through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3, especially if I'm accelerating above
 40%.  If I force it to hold gear with the floor shift, it shifts
 perfectly at a higher RPM.

 Thanks!
 -Tim
 a newbie in so many ways :)

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Mitch Haley

Tim C wrote:


Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that might be
something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)


I conclude that your clutch pack gets 100 shifts worth of wear every time that 
happens.


I haven't driven a stick in at least 20 years, so I don't remember if the
engine revs in the scenario you describe?


Only if some fool hits the throttle while the clutch is disengaged.

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Tim C
Thanks Mitch, that's very helpful.

-Tim
Hopefully still has a couple years then
On Jan 27, 2012 9:00 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Tim C wrote:

  Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
 makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that might be
 something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)


 I conclude that your clutch pack gets 100 shifts worth of wear every time
 that happens.


 I haven't driven a stick in at least 20 years, so I don't remember if the
 engine revs in the scenario you describe?


 Only if some fool hits the throttle while the clutch is disengaged.

 __**_
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 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 5:38 AM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

 Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
 makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that might be
 something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)

Sounds like a really ghastly case of flaring.  Normally you just get a
little vrrr as the engine revs up a little for an instant during
upshifts---that condition can often be cured by proper modulator
adjustment, a fluid change, and running a while with synthetic ATF.
But the best cure for what you're describing, Tim, is often one of
Rusty's rebuilt trannies installed by a competent shop (or on your
own, if you have the right equipment).

Alex

___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Larry T
I put one of Rusty's ATs in last summer (by local shop) and  must concur 
- they are awesome with great prices.


I may have mentioned this, but my local MB Dealer was willing to install 
a outside vendor's rebuilt AT  just like the local Indy did (but the 
dealer wanted $1250 Vs $650).


When I was talking to Rusty about the AT he said he'd sold thousands 
over the last ~20 years and had only 3 problems!!  That's incredible!  2 
of the  problems were the fault of the installer and the other was 
something external that could be easily repaired.   All 3 problems were 
minor BTW.


When I asked the rebuilder what kind of ATF to use he said Dexron III.   
I was hoping to use M1 ATF but went with the rebuilder recommendation.  
They also say to use 24K ATF change intervals Vs 30K that MB says to use.


Have a good weekend -
LarryT
91 300D

On 1/27/2012 10:08 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 5:38 AM, Tim Cbb...@crone.us  wrote:


Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that might be
something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)

Sounds like a really ghastly case of flaring.  Normally you just get a
little vrrr as the engine revs up a little for an instant during
upshifts---that condition can often be cured by proper modulator
adjustment, a fluid change, and running a while with synthetic ATF.
But the best cure for what you're describing, Tim, is often one of
Rusty's rebuilt trannies installed by a competent shop (or on your
own, if you have the right equipment).

Alex

___
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Re: [MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-27 Thread Hendrik Fay
Pretty certain that the K1 spring kit is only for 722.3/4 trannies and 
only fixes the 2-3 flare.
Have no experience with the 722.1 boxes but flaring can be caused by a 
slow change over, worn clutches, brake band 2 sticking and perhaps low 
operating pressure.
At this stage I would suggest that a rebuild is not in order but a look 
inside the pan to see if there are metal particles is in order.

I have had good success with Fuchs titan D3 semi-synthetic ATF.
Modulator adjustment is related to all gears and while adjustment will 
mask a problem it does not fix it.
Shift timing is determined by control pressure, nothing to do with the 
modulator.
You really need to find someone who is an expert on these boxes and will 
not just tell you that you need another box.


Hendrik
who is losing his sanity trying to get auto boxes to work 100%

Larry T wrote:
I put one of Rusty's ATs in last summer (by local shop) and  must 
concur - they are awesome with great prices.


I may have mentioned this, but my local MB Dealer was willing to 
install a outside vendor's rebuilt AT  just like the local Indy did 
(but the dealer wanted $1250 Vs $650).


When I was talking to Rusty about the AT he said he'd sold thousands 
over the last ~20 years and had only 3 problems!!  That's incredible!  
2 of the  problems were the fault of the installer and the other was 
something external that could be easily repaired.   All 3 problems 
were minor BTW.


When I asked the rebuilder what kind of ATF to use he said Dexron 
III.   I was hoping to use M1 ATF but went with the rebuilder 
recommendation.  They also say to use 24K ATF change intervals Vs 30K 
that MB says to use.


Have a good weekend -
LarryT
91 300D

On 1/27/2012 10:08 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Fri, Jan 27, 2012 at 5:38 AM, Tim Cbb...@crone.us  wrote:


Mine goes to a high RPM with no load, then drops back to normal once it
makes it into gear.  I included that line because I realize that 
might be

something completely different than what I thought it was called. :)

Sounds like a really ghastly case of flaring.  Normally you just get a
little vrrr as the engine revs up a little for an instant during
upshifts---that condition can often be cured by proper modulator
adjustment, a fluid change, and running a while with synthetic ATF.
But the best cure for what you're describing, Tim, is often one of
Rusty's rebuilt trannies installed by a competent shop (or on your
own, if you have the right equipment).

Alex

On 1/26/2012 4:43 PM, Tim C wrote:
1) Anyone know if the K1 spring upgrade (126-270-44-77) will fit in a
722.118?  Rusty wasn't sure, and the internet seems littered with
folks having this question unanswered. :/

2) My transmission is flaring* and yesterday I realized that, after
adjusting the accelerator throw some months ago, I didn't adjust the
pushrod to the transmission's vacuum valve.  I shortened the pushrod a
bit, and it is a bit better.  I am hoping the trend will continue as I
make it shorter...

However, this leaves me with two questions:
 a) How likely that I did permanent damage?  I guess I was telling the
transmission I was always at WOT?  Not really sure what the vacuum
valve is doing in practice. [Fluid was replaced 8-10 months ago, I'll
do it again soon anyway since I have a slow leak I want to track
down.]
 b) Why would it shift early with a pushrod that was too long?  Seems
like it should be the other way.

*I think it's flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3, especially if I'm accelerating above
40%.  If I force it to hold gear with the floor shift, it shifts
perfectly at a higher RPM.

Thanks!
-Tim


___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

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[MBZ] Tranny questions

2012-01-26 Thread Tim C
1) Anyone know if the K1 spring upgrade (126-270-44-77) will fit in a
722.118?  Rusty wasn't sure, and the internet seems littered with
folks having this question unanswered. :/

2) My transmission is flaring* and yesterday I realized that, after
adjusting the accelerator throw some months ago, I didn't adjust the
pushrod to the transmission's vacuum valve.  I shortened the pushrod a
bit, and it is a bit better.  I am hoping the trend will continue as I
make it shorter...

However, this leaves me with two questions:
 a) How likely that I did permanent damage?  I guess I was telling the
transmission I was always at WOT?  Not really sure what the vacuum
valve is doing in practice. [Fluid was replaced 8-10 months ago, I'll
do it again soon anyway since I have a slow leak I want to track
down.]
 b) Why would it shift early with a pushrod that was too long?  Seems
like it should be the other way.

*I think it's flaring, basically the engine spins before it goes
through (I think) 1-2 and 2-3, especially if I'm accelerating above
40%.  If I force it to hold gear with the floor shift, it shifts
perfectly at a higher RPM.

Thanks!
-Tim
a newbie in so many ways :)

___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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RE: [MBZ] Tranny Questions

2005-06-22 Thread Royce Engler
Looks like I'm WAY overdue on mine.  Is the AC-Delco filter kit I can get
from my local O'Reilly store adequate for the job, or do I need to order
from Rusty and wait a few days?

Where's a good place to get M1 ATF?  WalMart doesn't carry it here

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 722.120 Tranny Questions


John Robbins wrote:

 Listers,

 Got a couple of questions about my tranny... car has 275k miles on it
 (presumably tranny does as well. Mobil 1 ATF.

 I changed my tranny fluid and filter 30k miles ago... am I supposed to
 change the filter this go around or just the fluid?

With dino, I do fluid at 15 and filter at 30k.
If I were you, I'd do both at 30k.

 Another problem is that my kickdown doesn't work.  The kickdown switch
 works, the overboost protection circuit works, and the kickdown solenoid
 is new (replaced it myself), but the stupid thing doesn't kickdown!

How's the wiring  fuse? (probably not the fuse, my 116 kills the tach
and fuel gauge when the kickdown blows the fuse)

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Re: [MBZ] Tranny Questions

2005-06-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

order from rusty

Royce Engler wrote:


Looks like I'm WAY overdue on mine.  Is the AC-Delco filter kit I can get
from my local O'Reilly store adequate for the job, or do I need to order
from Rusty and wait a few days?

Where's a good place to get M1 ATF?  WalMart doesn't carry it here

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 722.120 Tranny Questions


John Robbins wrote:


Listers,

Got a couple of questions about my tranny... car has 275k miles on it
(presumably tranny does as well. Mobil 1 ATF.

I changed my tranny fluid and filter 30k miles ago... am I supposed to
change the filter this go around or just the fluid?



With dino, I do fluid at 15 and filter at 30k.
If I were you, I'd do both at 30k.



Another problem is that my kickdown doesn't work.  The kickdown switch
works, the overboost protection circuit works, and the kickdown solenoid
is new (replaced it myself), but the stupid thing doesn't kickdown!



How's the wiring  fuse? (probably not the fuse, my 116 kills the tach
and fuel gauge when the kickdown blows the fuse)

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 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
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