Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-28 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes

Yea I have figured I would just replace them both.

On 5/28/2020 4:00 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

In one of your early posts, about trying to bleed the slave cylinder, I
seem to recall you said upon opening the bleed port and pumping the clutch
peddle, you only got a small amount of fluid coming out?
If this was the case, I posit the issue is with the Clutch Master Cylinder,
not the Slave.
If the Master has failed, the rubber "pucks" are leaking and when you pump
the clutch, fluid is bypassing the puck and not producing pressure to the
slave...
When you bleed from the bottom with brake pressure, you pump fluid up to
the master, but even when you have fluid to pump the master cylinder isn't
making pressure because the rubber puck is leaking internal...

Again.. replace them both.. have a clutch... My suggestion / advise.

On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 10:22 AM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:


On Thu, 28 May 2020 13:04:42 + (UTC) Max Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:


I think there is a section of rubber hose built into the hose between
master and slave, so maybe you could try that.  Not sure if the hard
line part is mounted to the top of the trans or not.

See attached pictures.


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-28 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
What Herr Mann said ---

On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 4:01 PM G Mann via Mercedes 
wrote:

Again.. *replace them both*.. have a clutch... My suggestion / advise.
>


-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-28 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
In one of your early posts, about trying to bleed the slave cylinder, I
seem to recall you said upon opening the bleed port and pumping the clutch
peddle, you only got a small amount of fluid coming out?
If this was the case, I posit the issue is with the Clutch Master Cylinder,
not the Slave.
If the Master has failed, the rubber "pucks" are leaking and when you pump
the clutch, fluid is bypassing the puck and not producing pressure to the
slave...
When you bleed from the bottom with brake pressure, you pump fluid up to
the master, but even when you have fluid to pump the master cylinder isn't
making pressure because the rubber puck is leaking internal...

Again.. replace them both.. have a clutch... My suggestion / advise.

On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 10:22 AM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Thu, 28 May 2020 13:04:42 + (UTC) Max Dillon via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > I think there is a section of rubber hose built into the hose between
> > master and slave, so maybe you could try that.  Not sure if the hard
> > line part is mounted to the top of the trans or not.
>
> See attached pictures.
>
>
> Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-28 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I think there is a section of rubber hose built into the hose between master 
and slave, so maybe you could try that.  Not sure if the hard line part is 
mounted to the top of the trans or not.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

May 27, 2020 9:53:19 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> I am sure it is not working.  You are right there is very little resistance 
> in the pedal which my other 240D has, this one has zero.  Can I pull the 
> cylinder out without disconnecting the line and push the pedal to see if the 
> piston comes out or not?  I am sure this is all basic stuff but I have never 
> messed with clutches before.
> 
> On 5/27/2020 8:13 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes wrote:
>> Stupid question here:  but are you sure the clutch doesn’t work?  When the
>> clutch is perfect is these, there is very little feel and resistance in the
>> pedal.
>> 
>> On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 5:17 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> So the other day I hooked clear line from right front brake caliper to the
>>> bleeder on the slave cylinder, opened them both up and had the wife start
>>> pumping the brake pedal (not all the way down) while I watched. It was
>>> moving fluid thru for sure. Had her pump a while then I took over. After
>>> all was said and done the clutch medal now returns back to the top position
>>> on its one but still does nothing. I assume it’s now air free but not sure
>>> exactly how long to pump. I guess I will order a new slave cylinder and
>>> replace it.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
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>> http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-27 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I am sure it is not working.  You are right there is very little 
resistance in the pedal which my other 240D has, this one has zero.  Can 
I pull the cylinder out without disconnecting the line and push the 
pedal to see if the piston comes out or not?  I am sure this is all 
basic stuff but I have never messed with clutches before.


On 5/27/2020 8:13 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes wrote:

Stupid question here:  but are you sure the clutch doesn’t work?  When the
clutch is perfect is these, there is very little feel and resistance in the
pedal.



On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 5:17 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


So the other day I hooked clear line from right front brake caliper to the
bleeder on the slave cylinder, opened them both up and had the wife start
pumping the brake pedal (not all the way down) while I watched. It was
moving fluid thru for sure. Had her pump a while then I took over. After
all was said and done the clutch medal now returns back to the top position
on its one but still does nothing. I assume it’s now air free but not sure
exactly how long to pump. I guess I will order a new slave cylinder and
replace it.

Sent from my iPhone

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--

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-27 Thread Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes
Stupid question here:  but are you sure the clutch doesn’t work?  When the
clutch is perfect is these, there is very little feel and resistance in the
pedal.



On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 5:17 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> So the other day I hooked clear line from right front brake caliper to the
> bleeder on the slave cylinder, opened them both up and had the wife start
> pumping the brake pedal (not all the way down) while I watched. It was
> moving fluid thru for sure. Had her pump a while then I took over. After
> all was said and done the clutch medal now returns back to the top position
> on its one but still does nothing. I assume it’s now air free but not sure
> exactly how long to pump. I guess I will order a new slave cylinder and
> replace it.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-27 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Suggest you replace both the clutch slave AND master at the same time.
I did a search online and looks like replacement$ are not "terrible" for
each.


On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 3:07 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I think that's a good plan.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> May 27, 2020 5:17:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  >:
>
> > So the other day I hooked clear line from right front brake caliper to
> the bleeder on the slave cylinder, opened them both up and had the wife
> start pumping the brake pedal (not all the way down) while I watched. It
> was moving fluid thru for sure. Had her pump a while then I took over.
> After all was said and done the clutch medal now returns back to the top
> position on its one but still does nothing. I assume it’s now air free but
> not sure exactly how long to pump. I guess I will order a new slave
> cylinder and replace it.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > ___
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-27 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I think that's a good plan.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

May 27, 2020 5:17:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> So the other day I hooked clear line from right front brake caliper to the 
> bleeder on the slave cylinder, opened them both up and had the wife start 
> pumping the brake pedal (not all the way down) while I watched. It was moving 
> fluid thru for sure. Had her pump a while then I took over. After all was 
> said and done the clutch medal now returns back to the top position on its 
> one but still does nothing. I assume it’s now air free but not sure exactly 
> how long to pump. I guess I will order a new slave cylinder and replace it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-20 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> Nope. Asked a few days ago and never really got a firm answer. 

Do what the book says.  Why so much resistance, especially if it's going
to lead you to shotgun a bunch of parts rather than try it?  (And which, I
might add, if you did you'd be back in exactly the same place as regards
air in the system.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
The firm answer: RTFM.  Short cut: do what Jim says.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC
May 19, 2020 9:53:18 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

>   Nope. Asked a few days ago and never really got a firm answer. 
>  
>  
>  Sent from my iPhone 
>  
>  
>   
>  
> 
> >On May 19, 2020, at 8:40 PM, Jim Cathey  
> > wrote: 
> >   
> >  
> >    
> >   
> >  
> >   
> > >  
> > >Before doing what I did today, the pedal came right back up when 
> > > pressed but just felt like it was not doing anything.  Maybe I should 
> > > just replace the master and slave cylinders?  I thought clutches were 
> > > easy to mess with but this is the first time I have had to deal with one. 
> > >
> > >  
> > >   
> >  
> >   Have you actually bled it according to the factory instructions?  
> > Cheap, easy, and effective. 
> >   
> >  
> >   -- Jim 
> >   
> >  
> >
> >  
>  
>   
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Nope. Asked a few days ago and never really got a firm answer. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 19, 2020, at 8:40 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> Before doing what I did today, the pedal came right back up when pressed but 
>> just felt like it was not doing anything.  Maybe I should just replace the 
>> master and slave cylinders?  I thought clutches were easy to mess with but 
>> this is the first time I have had to deal with one.
> 
> Have you actually bled it according to the factory instructions?  Cheap, 
> easy, and effective.
> 
> -- Jim
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> Before doing what I did today, the pedal came right back up when pressed but 
> just felt like it was not doing anything.  Maybe I should just replace the 
> master and slave cylinders?  I thought clutches were easy to mess with but 
> this is the first time I have had to deal with one.

Have you actually bled it according to the factory instructions?  Cheap, easy, 
and effective.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
No not really. Mention was made of connection a line to a brake caliper but I 
asked about hooking pressure bleeder to the reservoir and never really got a 
definitive answer.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 19, 2020, at 8:10 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Did anyone mention you need it bleed it from the slave up?  Connect
> pressure bleeder hose to the slave bleed screw  and push fluid in, remove
> excess from the res as you go.
> 
> Jaime
> 
> 
>> On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 8:17 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on the slave
>> cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push the clutch
>> pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge pressure like I
>> expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what force the fluid
>> should come out when the clutch is pressed but it appears fluid is
>> getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing the slave cylinder
>> and go from there.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes
Did anyone mention you need it bleed it from the slave up?  Connect
pressure bleeder hose to the slave bleed screw  and push fluid in, remove
excess from the res as you go.

Jaime


On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 8:17 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on the slave
> cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push the clutch
> pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge pressure like I
> expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what force the fluid
> should come out when the clutch is pressed but it appears fluid is
> getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing the slave cylinder
> and go from there.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I'll bet there is air in the circuit now, that is why the pedal stays down.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC
May 19, 2020 8:32:18 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

>   Before doing what I did today, the pedal came right back up when 
> pressed but just felt like it was not doing anything.  Maybe I should just 
> replace the master and slave cylinders?  I thought clutches were easy to mess 
> with but this is the first time I have had to deal with one. 
>  
>  
>  On 5/19/2020 7:28 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote: 
>  
>  
>  
> 
> >Sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder, but it's been a LONG time 
> > since I 
> >   
> > trouble shot one. 
> >   
> >  
> >   On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 7:19 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes < 
> >   
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: 
> >   
> >  
> >
> >   
> > 
> > > One thing I forgot to mention is after doing this procedure the 
> > > clutch 
> > >
> > > pedal now stays down and does not self return without help. 
> > >
> > >  
> > >On 5/19/2020 7:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote: 
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > > 
> > > >  So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on 
> > > > the 
> > > > 
> > > > slave cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push 
> > > > 
> > > > the clutch pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge 
> > > > 
> > > > pressure like I expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what 
> > > > 
> > > > force the fluid should come out when the clutch is pressed but it 
> > > > 
> > > > appears fluid is getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing 
> > > > 
> > > > the slave cylinder and go from there. 
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > >  
> > > > ___ 
> > > > 
> > > > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > > > 
> > > >  
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> > > > 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Before doing what I did today, the pedal came right back up when pressed 
but just felt like it was not doing anything.  Maybe I should just 
replace the master and slave cylinders?  I thought clutches were easy to 
mess with but this is the first time I have had to deal with one.


On 5/19/2020 7:28 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

Sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder, but it's been a LONG time since I
trouble shot one.

On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 7:19 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


One thing I forgot to mention is after doing this procedure the clutch
pedal now stays down and does not self return without help.

On 5/19/2020 7:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on the
slave cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push
the clutch pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge
pressure like I expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what
force the fluid should come out when the clutch is pressed but it
appears fluid is getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing
the slave cylinder and go from there.


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
Sounds like a bad clutch master cylinder, but it's been a LONG time since I
trouble shot one.

On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 7:19 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> One thing I forgot to mention is after doing this procedure the clutch
> pedal now stays down and does not self return without help.
>
> On 5/19/2020 7:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> > So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on the
> > slave cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push
> > the clutch pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge
> > pressure like I expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what
> > force the fluid should come out when the clutch is pressed but it
> > appears fluid is getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing
> > the slave cylinder and go from there.
> >
> >
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-- 
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"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch

2020-05-19 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
One thing I forgot to mention is after doing this procedure the clutch 
pedal now stays down and does not self return without help.


On 5/19/2020 7:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
So tonight I got under the car and loosened the bleed screw on the 
slave cylinder.  Fluid would dribble out.  I then had a helper push 
the clutch pedal and fluid came out must faster but not under huge 
pressure like I expect when doing a brake caliper.  I am not sure what 
force the fluid should come out when the clutch is pressed but it 
appears fluid is getting there.  I guess I will start with replacing 
the slave cylinder and go from there.



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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread WILTON via Mercedes

ATTABOY.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 8:52 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update



An update to the saga.

A month ago I purchased a replacement clutch master cylinder
from MercedesSource.  The website did NOT list the
manufacturer - but it came with both a short and a long rod.

It came in a TRW box, and Lucas was cast into the body.  I
was not pleased.

After installing the master cylinder using the short rod, I
determined by how it mounted and by the fact the system
wouldn't bleed that the rod was too long.  That is, the short
rod was not short enough.  Closer examination determined the
problem is really the top of the piston in the cylinder is too
high.

Rather than have the car out of service for many days as I
tried to find a proper part, I chose to modify the rod making
it short enough it would work.  I was successful - but it took
me an extra 4+ hours of effort.

At this point, I was _very_ unhappy with MercedesSource.  I
let them know how unhappy I was, saying things like I'll buy
from Autohaus before I'll buy from you again.

And they responded!  Stood behind their product, apologized
for the trouble, promised to pester their supplier - and gave
me enough monetary compensation that I'm now quite satisfied.
MercedesSource is now very high on my list.  Any company
willing to put money behind the promise to keep customers
happy says to me they _are_ serious and really do care about
their products and reputation.  I'll still be very cautious
about the manufacturer, though.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes
-- Philip wrote:
 ...That is, the short rod was not short enough.

What year is the car?
I thought the problem was that my 240D is an '84 euro.  We had the
same problem.  Something in mfg specs is off.  My original part was
obtained via buymbparts-historic.  My recollection is that Classic
provided proper dealer part number and I sourced it at the dealer.  My
son said - get the right part, or you do the job yerself, so... that's
the way that went down, about 6 years ago.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread dseretakis--- via Mercedes
Mercedes Source is definitely nice to deal with. I bought an injector pop 
tester a couple of years ago and the needle in the gauge was broken. I emailed 
them and they immediately sent me a new gauge. No questions asked. 

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jan 22, 2015, at 8:52 PM, fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 An update to the saga.
 
 A month ago I purchased a replacement clutch master cylinder
 from MercedesSource.  The website did NOT list the
 manufacturer - but it came with both a short and a long rod.
 
 It came in a TRW box, and Lucas was cast into the body.  I
 was not pleased. 
 
 After installing the master cylinder using the short rod, I
 determined by how it mounted and by the fact the system
 wouldn't bleed that the rod was too long.  That is, the short
 rod was not short enough.  Closer examination determined the
 problem is really the top of the piston in the cylinder is too
 high.
 
 Rather than have the car out of service for many days as I
 tried to find a proper part, I chose to modify the rod making
 it short enough it would work.  I was successful - but it took
 me an extra 4+ hours of effort.  
 
 At this point, I was _very_ unhappy with MercedesSource.  I
 let them know how unhappy I was, saying things like I'll buy
 from Autohaus before I'll buy from you again.
 
 And they responded!  Stood behind their product, apologized
 for the trouble, promised to pester their supplier - and gave
 me enough monetary compensation that I'm now quite satisfied.
 MercedesSource is now very high on my list.  Any company
 willing to put money behind the promise to keep customers
 happy says to me they _are_ serious and really do care about
 their products and reputation.  I'll still be very cautious
 about the manufacturer, though.
 
 --  Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Thanks for the report!  I've bought from them once, ten years ago, new HVAC 
blower motor and custom tool for removing squirrel cage fan blades from old.  
Tool worked fine, blower motor is still blowing...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Philip wrote:
 
  ...That is, the short rod was not short enough.

 Mountain wrote:
 
 What year is the car?

The car is a very early '81.  The master cylinder that was in it
came from a very late '81.

 I thought the problem was that my 240D is an '84 euro.  We had the
 same problem.  Something in mfg specs is off.  My original part
 was obtained via buymbparts-historic.  My recollection is that
 Classic provided proper dealer part number and I sourced it at
 the dealer.

I had dealer part numbers.  I was hoping to buy a FAG or FTE, but I
was having difficulty determining whether the short rod was for
early or late, and is there a different part number for the later
master cylinder.  Based on my experience and the data I encountered
during the project, there is only one master cylinder available -
and it comes with the long rod for the older cars.  For the younger
cars that (best I can tell) require the short rod, a master
cylinder AND and short rod have to be purchased.  

 My son said - get the right part, or you do the job
 yerself

My biggest issue was the scarcity of information about the master
cylinder and rod - and the lack of manufacturer information on
MercedesSource website.  I had part numbers - but I wasn't sure for
what car that number was valid.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Four years ago I refreshed the clutch master cylinder pulled
  from one of the parts cars to put in a 240 that I drive.  I
  could not find any new rubber parts, so is wasn't really a
  rebuild - just a bore hone and cleanup.  But it lasted four
  years.
 
  And then it failed. 
 
  And I really miss Q!

 Curly wrote:
 
 You will have to set yourself up as a shop/retailer.  THen you
 can order the worldparts stuff from Q.

Hey!  Now there's an idea!

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Fmiser wrote:
 

  Another way to tell the rod is too long is in mounting.
  If there is fluid in the master cylinder, the rod (and
  piston) will move a millimeter or two before the supply
  port is covered. At this point, it becomes _very_ hard to
  press because any pressure is trying to compress the
  clutch spring.

  So I choose to shorten the rod.

  I grind, file, sand, and polish the rod making it about 2
  mm shorted.  Nope - not enough.  I remove another 1 mm.
  Now it works.  A total of about 3 mm ground of the end of
  the rod to make the TRW part work in my car.

  The car is working properly - but I'm sure not happy with
  MercedesSource for not listing the manufacturer and for choosing
  TRW, which seems to be junk.

 Curly wrote:
 
 ATTABOY!

Thanks!

 I think I'd have done the same.

I've got pictures and a sketch with dimensions if anyone else
needs data.

 It may be possible to order the Clutch MC Kit form the classic 
 center.  

I'll have to look into that.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 30/12/2014 9:54 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

2. Gary at buyeuroparts dot com.
Personalities aside, business is business.

No way.  There comes a point where I choose to take my business to
a vendor who doesn't abuse me.




No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

On 30/12/2014 9:54 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:



No way.  There comes a point where I choose to take my business to
a vendor who doesn't abuse me.



No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.

RB


100% agree.I won't buy from a horses _ss for anything.  There is 
always someone else you can buy from, whatever the product.


If we are looking for price, autohausAZ is hard to beat.  If we want 
OE, certain dealers that advertise in the Star are good.  (mostly 
East or west cost.  I have a shop who swears by a dealer in Kansas 
City, but I don't know which one.


And there is the Classic center.

And car-part.com for used

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Michael Esh via Mercedes
Why is this being brought up again?

Michael E. Esh
231 286 2344


 On Dec 31, 2014, at 12:02 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 On 30/12/2014 9:54 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
 2. Gary at buyeuroparts dot com.
 Personalities aside, business is business.
 No way.  There comes a point where I choose to take my business to
 a vendor who doesn't abuse me.
 
 
 
 No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.
 
 RB
 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes
Curly wrote:
 Isn't your car a euro or RTW model, not a USA 123?
 That could make a difference.

Euro VIN  It could make the difference, I dunno.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes
RB wrote:
 No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.

Blow it away, really, guys.
Don't be so thin skinned.
Jabbhursty is excellent.  We each have rough spots and Jabbahursty
wears well - not very rough.  Ya just gotta roll with it.  Just like
with Q.  I always expected an FU from Q.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes
Michael wrote:
 Why is this being brought up again?

Really.
Totally.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Wed, 31 Dec 2014 18:24:21 -0500 Michael Esh via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Why is this being brought up again?

Yes, indeed.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread Michael Esh via Mercedes
Well said!  Get off it. 

Michael E. Esh
231 286 2344


 On Dec 31, 2014, at 7:57 PM, Mountain Man via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 RB wrote:
 No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.
 
 Blow it away, really, guys.
 Don't be so thin skinned.
 Jabbhursty is excellent.  We each have rough spots and Jabbahursty
 wears well - not very rough.  Ya just gotta roll with it.  Just like
 with Q.  I always expected an FU from Q.
 mao
 
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Interesting. I gave Dimitri the replacement slave cylinder I'd bought. I always 
kind of thought that putting the slave to match the master might fix the 
problem.Your car had more severe issues than mine, on mine it was just that 
engagement was very high, I had no problem bleeding the clutch or with 
operation just that it had a funny feel.
-Curt

  From: fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2014 7:38 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder
   
Four years ago I refreshed the clutch master cylinder pulled from
one of the parts cars to put in a 240 that I drive.  I could not
find any new rubber parts, so is wasn't really a rebuild - just a
bore hone and cleanup.  But it lasted four years.

And then it failed.  

And I really miss Q!

For those with a long memory, Curt had issues with his clutch not
long after I refreshed mine.  We compared notes.  Best I can tell,
the early cars have a long rod and the newer cars a short rod.  The
different in length is 5 mm.

I can't find an EPC that works for me, but via other methods, I
_think_ newer than chassis number 091119 needs the short rod -
probably part number 000-295-08-33.  The master cylinder part number
is 001-295-44-06.  What I suspect now, but couldn't prove before is
that the master cylinder always comes with the long rod and a short
rod has to be purchased if it is needed for a newer car.
Probably.  I think.

So I finally decide to purchase from MercedesSource, since they
ship with both rods.  What the website doesn't say is the
manufacturer.

Well, the one I got from them does have both rods.  In a TRW box.
With Lucas cast into the body of the master cylinder.  Uh oh.

It's very obvious my car needs the short rod. But a little closer
look suggests maybe even the short rod is too long...

Well, I install the master cylinder, making sure the adjuster
eccentric is at it's longest setting. The way to bleed the system,
and to set the eccentric, is to pressure bleed from the slave
cylinder.  I can't - because the piston is too far down in the
master cylinder and is blocking the supply port.  That is, the rod
is too long.  The _short_ rod is too long.

*sigh*

So much for TRW.

Another way to tell the rod is too long is in mounting.  If there
is fluid in the master cylinder, the rod (and piston) will move a
millimeter or two before the supply port is covered. At this point,
it becomes _very_ hard to press because any pressure is trying to
compress the clutch spring.

But the car is down, and it will be at least _days_ before I can
get something else.

So I choose to shorten the rod.  Careful measurements on the bench
between the new TRW and the old FAG shows the TRW to be 3 mm to
long.  But it's not the rod.  The rod is exactly the same length as
the old FAG - it's the position of the piston top that is too far
from the mounting bolt ears.

There is a ball form on the end of the rod.  I choose to try to
keep the radius of the contact with the piston about the same.  I
grind, file, sand, and polish the rod making it about 2 mm
shorted.  Nope - not enough.  I remove another 1 mm.  Now it
works.  A total of about 3 mm ground of the end of the rod to make
the TRW part work in my car.

The car is working properly - but I'm sure not happy with
MercedesSource for not listing the manufacturer and for choosing
TRW, which seems to be junk.

I sure miss the knowledge, support, and service Q provided.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread Mountain Man via Mercedes
-- Philip wrote:
 I sure miss the knowledge, support, and service Q provided.


Q could not supply my master.  For that, I had to go to Classic
Center.  For whatever reason, they were able to get the correct one.
That was the least cost option for me at the time.  My son and I spent
4 hours at the shop he worked at and ended with nothing which resulted
in his telling me that if the proper part were not purchased, I would
be doing the job myself, so... Classic Center it was.  The cylinder Q
supplied twice was returned.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 ‎Probably the best options for parts would be,
 
 1. Local dealer you are on a first name, chat over coffee, basis
 with. (discount$)

Nope.  The closest dealer is over 100 miles away.

 2. Gary at buyeuroparts dot com.

 Personalities aside, business is business. 

No way.  There comes a point where I choose to take my business to
a vendor who doesn't abuse me.

 3. The Mercedes Classic Center. I have heard that Tom Hanson (sp)
 knows his stuff. 

That's a possibility.  I have not yet done any business with them.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

-- Philip wrote:

 I sure miss the knowledge, support, and service Q provided.



Q could not supply my master.  For that, I had to go to Classic
Center.  For whatever reason, they were able to get the correct one.
That was the least cost option for me at the time.  My son and I spent
4 hours at the shop he worked at and ended with nothing which resulted
in his telling me that if the proper part were not purchased, I would
be doing the job myself, so... Classic Center it was.  The cylinder Q
supplied twice was returned.
mao

_


Isn't your car a euro or RTW model, not a USA 123?
That could make a difference.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
You will have to set yourself up as a shop/retailer.  THen you can 
order the worldparts stuff from Q.




Four years ago I refreshed the clutch master cylinder pulled from
one of the parts cars to put in a 240 that I drive.  I could not
find any new rubber parts, so is wasn't really a rebuild - just a
bore hone and cleanup.  But it lasted four years.

And then it failed. 


And I really miss Q!


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes



Another way to tell the rod is too long is in mounting.  If there
is fluid in the master cylinder, the rod (and piston) will move a
millimeter or two before the supply port is covered. At this point,
it becomes _very_ hard to press because any pressure is trying to
compress the clutch spring.

But the car is down, and it will be at least _days_ before I can
get something else.

So I choose to shorten the rod.  Careful measurements on the bench
between the new TRW and the old FAG shows the TRW to be 3 mm to
long.  But it's not the rod.  The rod is exactly the same length as
the old FAG - it's the position of the piston top that is too far
from the mounting bolt ears.

There is a ball form on the end of the rod.  I choose to try to
keep the radius of the contact with the piston about the same.  I
grind, file, sand, and polish the rod making it about 2 mm
shorted.  Nope - not enough.  I remove another 1 mm.  Now it
works.  A total of about 3 mm ground of the end of the rod to make
the TRW part work in my car.

The car is working properly - but I'm sure not happy with
MercedesSource for not listing the manufacturer and for choosing
TRW, which seems to be junk.

I sure miss the knowledge, support, and service Q provided.

--  Philip


ATTABOY!

I think I'd have done the same.

It may be possible to order the Clutch MC Kit form the classic 
center.  OR MB may have quit selling the kits do to the liabilities 
caused by the lack of open season with no bag limit on USA shysters.


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod revisited

2012-09-07 Thread Rich Thomas

lubed it with Crisco

--R

On 9/7/12 12:16 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

Nice!  How did you shorten it?



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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod revisited

2012-09-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Started out with the angle grinder but switched to a file for more control.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 00:16:14 -0400
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod revisited
Message-ID: 978f780e-643e-48d6-b9a7-4f9267d24...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Nice!  How did you shorten it?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Some of you might remember when I changed the clutch master cylinder on
my '78 240D and inadvertently threw away the short clutch rod which
left me with an incorrect wrong rod which made the clutch really high.
I'm also not 100% sure the clutch actually engages all the way...

Today I took the long rod out and shortened it. I removed 1/8 in 2
jumps of 1/16 each. With the first 1/16 removed I was reasonably sure
I could detect improvement so I went with the second run. I think it
could probably do with another 1/8 but my back is pretty sore from
crawling in to do the job and I want to take it for a longer test ride
before trying again. Also Phillip had sent a picture of a proper short
rod and I want to revisit that before doing more.

I think I also mentioned the other day that Mercedessource has the
proper rod but you need to buy a whole kit including the master
cylinder to get it. Finally having found somewhere that admitted that
the short rod existed (which baffled even the guys at the Mercedes
Classic Center) made me confident in trying this adjustment.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod revisited

2012-09-06 Thread Max Dillon
Nice!  How did you shorten it?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Some of you might remember when I changed the clutch master cylinder on
my '78 240D and inadvertently threw away the short clutch rod which
left me with an incorrect wrong rod which made the clutch really high.
I'm also not 100% sure the clutch actually engages all the way...

Today I took the long rod out and shortened it. I removed 1/8 in 2
jumps of 1/16 each. With the first 1/16 removed I was reasonably sure
I could detect improvement so I went with the second run. I think it
could probably do with another 1/8 but my back is pretty sore from
crawling in to do the job and I want to take it for a longer test ride
before trying again. Also Phillip had sent a picture of a proper short
rod and I want to revisit that before doing more.

I think I also mentioned the other day that Mercedessource has the
proper rod but you need to buy a whole kit including the master
cylinder to get it. Finally having found somewhere that admitted that
the short rod existed (which baffled even the guys at the Mercedes
Classic Center) made me confident in trying this adjustment.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-30 Thread Curt Raymond
Shifting sheet metal wouldn't be so reliable would it? If I put the shim in 
backwards the pedal is low, if I put it in forward its high.

Hopefully Sunday I'll find time to see what upside down and upside 
down/backward does.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:39:30 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: 4e84e592.3090...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 29/09/2011 3:43 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
 You also seem to think mine won't bleed. Mine bled fine, it drives funny but 
 actuates just fine. Mao had the bleed problem.

 I *think* the shim is not quite square and the angle of the slope effects the 
 pedal feel. The old one broke and fell out so I have no idea how its supposed 
 to be situated...

 -Curt


Any chance you have other issues? Have you looked at the firewall and
the pedal assembly?
Older Toyota pickups and 4Runners sometimes have problems similar to
this and the fault is often cracked sheet metal on the firewall where
the pedal assembly mounts permitting enough flex to affect the whole
system (assuming my memory on the subject is correct - I used to read a
Toyota forum more regularly than I now do).

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-30 Thread Curt Raymond
From the picture you sent I think the difference between the two rods is no 
more than 1/8 and possibly less than that.

I need to play with the shim more, I'm still convinced its the cause of all my 
problems. Otherwise I do have a brand new MC to swap in assuming that I somehow 
damaged this one during the bleed process (which is quite possible.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 00:32:02 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: 20110930003202.8bc791ea.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

   Curt Raymond wrote:
  
   In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of
   pedal travel, conversely it engages in the last 1/8th of
   pedal travel (on the way UP) so my theory is the rod is
   too long...

  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Shoot.  I had your symptoms backwards.
 
  Well - if it's enough too long the piston can't move far
  enough up to clear the file-port and so it won't bleed.
  If it bleeds, then it may be the slave shims after all.

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 You also seem to think mine won't bleed. Mine bled fine, it
 drives funny but actuates just fine. Mao had the bleed problem.

No, I caught that you had no trouble bleeding.  I keep bringing
that up because I am rather certain that if you have a rod that
is even as much as 1/4 too long your system will not bleed.
It's that close.

So, since your's is bleeding, I figured you must have the
opposite of what I had.  I had long rod and and short master
cylinder - and no bleed.  Ergo, you have a short rod and a long
cylinder.

Or then again, maybe not. *weak smile*

 I *think* the shim is not quite square and the angle of the
 slope effects the pedal feel. The old one broke and fell out
 so I have no idea how its supposed to be situated...

Hmm. The shim I had was so thin I don't think I could have
detected a lack of parallel.   But I also wasn't looking for
it. :)

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-30 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 From the picture you sent I think the difference between the
 two rods is no more than 1/8 and possibly less than that.

Oh!  Then there must be more than two choices.

The different between my short and long rod is at least 1/2
inch. As I recall, it's closer to 1 inch different.  But right
now I'm to lazy to pull apart the working car just to measure it.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-29 Thread Curt Raymond
In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of pedal travel, conversely 
it engages in the last 1/8th of pedal travel (on the way UP) so my theory is 
the rod is too long which fits with what you're saying except my results are 
opposite of what you thought.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:41:57 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: 20110928204157.0365a9e6.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Huh?

 I thought the rod I have is too long... My theory is that too
 long a rod would run the MC farther along than it should and
 aww hell I dunno, the old rod was shorter...

 See my other message about the shim. Looks like if I hadn't
 touched the slave I wouldn't be in this mess.

Gee - I dunno either.

I don't trust my memory of the details.  But if the shims are
doing something, then it is something. *weak smile*

My reconstruction from the results.

* I swapped in the master cylinder from one of the parts
   cars.

* The system would not bleed.

* The system will only bleed when the piston in the master
   cylinder is _all_ the way at the top.

* Since it wouldn't bleed because the piston was not all the
   way up, and the piston is depressed by a rod between the
   pedal and the piston, then the rod must have been too long.

* I swapped in the rod from the same car the master cylinder
   came from and all was well.

* I have a picture of a rod that I took after the job was
   done, therefore the photos must be of the long rod I am not
   using.

* If you have a rod that's too short, then when you step on
   the pedal your foot will have to move further than
   originally planned before the piston moves - which I think
   describes your situation.

Logical - no?

Doesn't mean it's right...

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-29 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of pedal
 travel, conversely it engages in the last 1/8th of pedal
 travel (on the way UP) so my theory is the rod is too long
 which fits with what you're saying except my results are
 opposite of what you thought.

Shoot.  I had your symptoms backwards.

Well - if it's enough too long the piston can't move far enough
up to clear the file-port and so it won't bleed.  If it bleeds,
then it may be the slave shims after all.

I just re-used what was in there, positioned so the gap was at
the bottom so it would drain.

Adding more shims would mean the slave is further from the fork
so more pedal travel will be needed.  Except it's a
self-adjusting layout, so it may adjust out what the shims
gain.  Though you said the shims did make a difference.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-29 Thread Curt Raymond
You also seem to think mine won't bleed. Mine bled fine, it drives funny but 
actuates just fine. Mao had the bleed problem.

I *think* the shim is not quite square and the angle of the slope effects the 
pedal feel. The old one broke and fell out so I have no idea how its supposed 
to be situated...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 12:39:15 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: 20110929123915.c713064b.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of pedal
 travel, conversely it engages in the last 1/8th of pedal
 travel (on the way UP) so my theory is the rod is too long
 which fits with what you're saying except my results are
 opposite of what you thought.

Shoot.  I had your symptoms backwards.

Well - if it's enough too long the piston can't move far enough
up to clear the file-port and so it won't bleed.  If it bleeds,
then it may be the slave shims after all.

I just re-used what was in there, positioned so the gap was at
the bottom so it would drain.

Adding more shims would mean the slave is further from the fork
so more pedal travel will be needed.  Except it's a
self-adjusting layout, so it may adjust out what the shims
gain.  Though you said the shims did make a difference.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-29 Thread Randy Bennell

On 29/09/2011 3:43 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

You also seem to think mine won't bleed. Mine bled fine, it drives funny but 
actuates just fine. Mao had the bleed problem.

I *think* the shim is not quite square and the angle of the slope effects the 
pedal feel. The old one broke and fell out so I have no idea how its supposed 
to be situated...

-Curt


Any chance you have other issues? Have you looked at the firewall and 
the pedal assembly?
Older Toyota pickups and 4Runners sometimes have problems similar to 
this and the fault is often cracked sheet metal on the firewall where 
the pedal assembly mounts permitting enough flex to affect the whole 
system (assuming my memory on the subject is correct - I used to read a 
Toyota forum more regularly than I now do).


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-29 Thread Fmiser
   Curt Raymond wrote:
  
   In my case the clutch disengages in the first 1/8th of
   pedal travel, conversely it engages in the last 1/8th of
   pedal travel (on the way UP) so my theory is the rod is
   too long...

  Fmiser wrote:
  
  Shoot.  I had your symptoms backwards.
  
  Well - if it's enough too long the piston can't move far
  enough up to clear the file-port and so it won't bleed.
  If it bleeds, then it may be the slave shims after all.

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 You also seem to think mine won't bleed. Mine bled fine, it
 drives funny but actuates just fine. Mao had the bleed problem.

No, I caught that you had no trouble bleeding.  I keep bringing
that up because I am rather certain that if you have a rod that
is even as much as 1/4 too long your system will not bleed.
It's that close.

So, since your's is bleeding, I figured you must have the
opposite of what I had.  I had long rod and and short master
cylinder - and no bleed.  Ergo, you have a short rod and a long
cylinder.

Or then again, maybe not. *weak smile*

 I *think* the shim is not quite square and the angle of the
 slope effects the pedal feel. The old one broke and fell out
 so I have no idea how its supposed to be situated...

Hmm. The shim I had was so thin I don't think I could have
detected a lack of parallel.   But I also wasn't looking for
it. :)

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-28 Thread Curt Raymond
I remember that, this is a factory MC that had been working just fine in my '83 
240D pre-engine failure. The rod (which is now cut down) also came from the 
'83. Mine bled just fine, I connected the bleed fitting on the slave to the 
right front wheel brake bleeder. Pumped the brake a couple times and had good 
clutch right away.

In retrospect I think you had a bad (ie not incorrect) MC. The older type rod 
is shorter than the new type...

John at the Classic Center (I was there in person a couple weeks ago remember) 
gave me EXACTLY the same story (with the same prices) as Rusty had including 
the same part numbers.
I want to try replacing the broken shim on the slave next, then replacing the 
MC.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:18:50 -0500
From: Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID:
calk3cy7n_ljvdkc_7w+16osefxmumrovurjnu2e2kb5cy6a...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Curt wrote:
 You may remember some time ago when I replaced the clutch MC in my '78 240D 
 and the pedal feel got real high and short. So yesterday I converted a 
 new-type clutch rod to an old type by grinding the beanie off the end. 
 Tonight I installed it and it made no difference...


My experience with 240D clutch MC is from 2 years ago.  My son and I
spent 6 hours trying to get the MC in so we could bleed and adjust per
instructions.  The critical item lacking was the ability to get the
piston high enough in the cylinder to bleed.  At the time, my son
scolded me for wasting his time - on a lift at the shop where he
works, and said I would do the next install if I did not get an MC
from the dealer.  I got the MC from the dealer and my son did the
work... again.  We installed the MC, pedal movement got us to bleed
port and adjusted like the instructions indicated.  Of course, we did
the MC only and last year did the slave - it was recommended that we
do both at the same time, but...
mao


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-28 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 You may remember some time ago when I replaced the clutch MC
 in my '78 240D and the pedal feel got real high and short. So
 yesterday I converted a new-type clutch rod to an old type by
 grinding the beanie off the end. Tonight I installed it and it
 made no difference...

So my grinding off the ball on the end you hoped to make it
longer?  *smiles*

My memory is a bit fuzzy, but my recollection is your problem is
from a short rod - right?  Because a long rod would prevent
bleeding.  

Maybe you could hire out extending the rod.  I know I wouldn't
try it with my welding skill and tools!  And I don't have a lathe.

Hmmm.  I don't think the outside diameter is critical - maybe a
tube to extend it. An inside diameter to match the outside
diameter of the rod, cut the rod, use the tube to span the gap.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-28 Thread Curt Raymond
Huh?

I thought the rod I have is too long... My theory is that too long a rod would 
run the MC farther along than it should and aww hell I dunno, the old rod was 
shorter...

See my other message about the shim. Looks like if I hadn't touched the slave I 
wouldn't be in this mess.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:29:19 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update
Message-ID: 20110928122919.26eab74a.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 You may remember some time ago when I replaced the clutch MC
 in my '78 240D and the pedal feel got real high and short. So
 yesterday I converted a new-type clutch rod to an old type by
 grinding the beanie off the end. Tonight I installed it and it
 made no difference...

So my grinding off the ball on the end you hoped to make it
longer?  *smiles*

My memory is a bit fuzzy, but my recollection is your problem is
from a short rod - right?  Because a long rod would prevent
bleeding. 

Maybe you could hire out extending the rod.  I know I wouldn't
try it with my welding skill and tools!  And I don't have a lathe.

Hmmm.  I don't think the outside diameter is critical - maybe a
tube to extend it. An inside diameter to match the outside
diameter of the rod, cut the rod, use the tube to span the gap.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-28 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Huh?
 
 I thought the rod I have is too long... My theory is that too
 long a rod would run the MC farther along than it should and
 aww hell I dunno, the old rod was shorter...
 
 See my other message about the shim. Looks like if I hadn't
 touched the slave I wouldn't be in this mess.

Gee - I dunno either.

I don't trust my memory of the details.  But if the shims are
doing something, then it is something. *weak smile*

My reconstruction from the results.

 * I swapped in the master cylinder from one of the parts
   cars.

 * The system would not bleed.

 * The system will only bleed when the piston in the master
   cylinder is _all_ the way at the top. 

 * Since it wouldn't bleed because the piston was not all the
   way up, and the piston is depressed by a rod between the
   pedal and the piston, then the rod must have been too long.

 * I swapped in the rod from the same car the master cylinder
   came from and all was well.

 * I have a picture of a rod that I took after the job was
   done, therefore the photos must be of the long rod I am not
   using. 

 * If you have a rod that's too short, then when you step on
   the pedal your foot will have to move further than
   originally planned before the piston moves - which I think
   describes your situation.

Logical - no?

Doesn't mean it's right...

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod update

2011-09-27 Thread Mountain Man
Curt wrote:
 You may remember some time ago when I replaced the clutch MC in my '78 240D 
 and the pedal feel got real high and short. So yesterday I converted a 
 new-type clutch rod to an old type by grinding the beanie off the end. 
 Tonight I installed it and it made no difference...


My experience with 240D clutch MC is from 2 years ago.  My son and I
spent 6 hours trying to get the MC in so we could bleed and adjust per
instructions.  The critical item lacking was the ability to get the
piston high enough in the cylinder to bleed.  At the time, my son
scolded me for wasting his time - on a lift at the shop where he
works, and said I would do the next install if I did not get an MC
from the dealer.  I got the MC from the dealer and my son did the
work... again.  We installed the MC, pedal movement got us to bleed
port and adjusted like the instructions indicated.  Of course, we did
the MC only and last year did the slave - it was recommended that we
do both at the same time, but...
mao

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Re: [MBZ] clutch question

2011-05-19 Thread Mitch Haley

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
This is not for a MB but a chrysler product actually but I guess would 
hold true for any car with a clutch.  Symptom is shifts OK when cold, or 
driving on highway.  If you are doing a lot of stop and go traffic, or 
sit in a parking lot with the engine running for more than about 20 
minutes it gets real hard to get it in gear.  Is this the clutch worn 
out or could it be something in the fluid/master/slave cylinder?


Either your clutch is dragging or the pilot bearing is dying.

The problem might be very slight, so it only hits after the transmission fluid 
is warm and thin. When the tranny is cold, the drag inside the trans is greater 
than the drag inside the clutch.


Clutch drag could be from a lot of causes, including being low on working fluid 
in the master cylinder, or air anywhere in the clutch hydraulics.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] clutch question

2011-05-19 Thread MG
My guess is fluid/master/slave cylinder, clutch disk binding 
slightly on the input shaft, also check the tranny for correct 
fluid and amount. Hot oil is thiner so dragging disk or slight 
drag in the pilot bushing or bearing would tend to cause the 
gears to rotate. Also low oil or too thin could let gears roll 
when hot. I've had all those happen at one time or another.


Manfred



Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 18:23:38 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
Subject: [MBZ] clutch question


This is not for a MB but a chrysler product actually but I guess
would hold true for any car with a clutch.  Symptom is shifts OK
when cold, or driving on highway.  If you are doing a lot of stop
and go traffic, or sit in a parking lot with the engine running
for more than about 20 minutes it gets real hard to get it in
gear.  Is this the clutch worn out or could it be something in the
fluid/master/slave cylinder?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK

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Re: [MBZ] clutch question

2011-05-19 Thread OK Don
Why do you even know that a Chrysler has clutch problems??? Ran out of
Mercedes to drive?

On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 This is not for a MB but a chrysler product actually but I guess would hold
 true for any car with a clutch.  Symptom is shifts OK when cold, or driving
 on highway.  If you are doing a lot of stop and go traffic, or sit in a
 parking lot with the engine running for more than about 20 minutes it gets
 real hard to get it in gear.  Is this the clutch worn out or could it be
 something in the fluid/master/slave cylinder?

 --


-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] clutch question

2011-05-19 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
It's my company car

Sent from my iPhone

On May 19, 2011, at 8:02 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why do you even know that a Chrysler has clutch problems??? Ran out of
 Mercedes to drive?
 
 On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
 
 This is not for a MB but a chrysler product actually but I guess would hold
 true for any car with a clutch.  Symptom is shifts OK when cold, or driving
 on highway.  If you are doing a lot of stop and go traffic, or sit in a
 parking lot with the engine running for more than about 20 minutes it gets
 real hard to get it in gear.  Is this the clutch worn out or could it be
 something in the fluid/master/slave cylinder?
 
 --
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] clutch question

2011-05-19 Thread Dieselhead

He'll never run out of MBs to drive, just MBs that run

some corollary of Murphy's lawthen more old MBs you have, the 
weirder the problems will be thus more time consuming.  And the end 
result is that the more MBs  (or any old car) you have, the harder it 
is to keep one running.  energy/cost to number of cars running is a 
parabolic curve.



Why do you even know that a Chrysler has clutch problems??? Ran out of
Mercedes to drive?

On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:23 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:


 This is not for a MB but a chrysler product actually but I guess would hold
 true for any car with a clutch.  Symptom is shifts OK when cold, or driving
 on highway.  If you are doing a lot of stop and go traffic, or sit in a
 parking lot with the engine running for more than about 20 minutes it gets
 real hard to get it in gear.  Is this the clutch worn out or could it be
 something in the fluid/master/slave cylinder?

 --



--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-03-01 Thread MG
Yeah. Sorry about that. I was reading through the digest and 
stopped to send without finishing all the others that were piled 
up behind it.


Manfred




Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 17:59:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod


You haven't been following along with the other posts, but based 
on your post I understand why! ;)


A. Theres a ball on the end so you can't just cut it off. I could 
section it I suppose, weld the ball back on.


B. Its an annoying fiddly job to get it in and out.

C. Assuming Rusty can get the correct part its ~$10. Not much of 
my time has to be spent to equal $10.


-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Max Dillon
What part number did Rusty send you?  EPC says two different part numbers are 
123 290 07 93 (up to ident. no: A091118) or 000 259 08 33 (as of ident. no: 
091119).

-Max





From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, February 27, 2011 9:39:32 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Clutch rod

Hey,

Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could rob the 
actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got on my '78 now 
seems 
to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty which is exactly the same. The 
clutch on this car actuates really high since I inadvertently put in a too new 
clutch rod and again inadvertently threw the old rod away...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
Been thinking that... The problem is that its got a ball on the end, the rod I 
think moved in a somewhat eliptical motion so the ball keeps it from getting 
stuck. I *think* I could shorten and weld a new ball on or take the length from 
the center and weld the ball back on to the end.

Still since I don't know how much length needs to come out and since its 
moderately annoying to do the swap, it'd be way easier if somebody had the 
actual correct part.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 20:51:10 -0600
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID:
    aanlktimsf_vom6hwk7s3qltsdm6fsvjdem3tz+wuq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Now that you have two that are too long, you can take a Dremel with a
cut-off disk and a grinding stone and shorten one till it works right ---
just thought I'd throw that out there for consideration ;-)

On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey,

 Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could rob the
 actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got on my '78 now
 seems to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty which is exactly the
 same. The clutch on this car actuates really high since I inadvertently put
 in a too new clutch rod and again inadvertently threw the old rod away...

 -Curt --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
The ball on the end is much larger than the shaft of the rod. I think that 
forces it to stay clipped into the MC plunger... Still I could cut the end off, 
shorten the shaft and weld it back together... See my other post for my 
concerns on that.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 22:18:07 -0600
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: a06240803c990d2356564@[192.168.1.51]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

Got a Makita grinder?  (or a HF 4.5 grinder?)  Cut it to length and 
grind the end round.

Hey,

Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could 
rob the actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got 
on my '78 now seems to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty 
which is exactly the same. The clutch on this car actuates really 
high since I inadvertently put in a too new clutch rod and again 
inadvertently threw the old rod away...

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Fmiser
  curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they
  could rob the actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder?
  The one I got on my '78 now seems to be too long. I got a
  replacement from Rusty which is exactly the same.

 OK Don wrote:

 Now that you have two that are too long, you can take a Dremel
 with a cut-off disk and a grinding stone and shorten one till
 it works right

I'm not willing to part with mine - but I can measure it. 

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
I hadn't even thought to check...

000 259 08 33 - Well thats probably my problem...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 04:39:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: 74197.52619...@web180002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

What part number did Rusty send you?  EPC says two different part numbers are 
123 290 07 93 (up to ident. no: A091118) or 000 259 08 33 (as of ident. no: 
091119).

-Max


  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Max Dillon
How about cutting out the middle and replacing with some threaded rod deal, so 
you can adjust by turning the center portion and then locking in place with a 
couple of locking nuts, similar to the adjustable throttle linkages or the 
linkage for the self-leveling rear suspension.  Trick would be to have threads 
right-hand at one end, and left-hand at the other.

_OR_

If the ball end doesn't care which end is up, make that end the part that 
turns, 
and you only need right-handed threads and one lock nut.  In other words, you 
will be re-engineering so the awkward cam/nut adjustment becomes redundant, 
replaced by something easier to adjust and with a greater range of adjustment.

Trick will be to make it stiff and strong like the original.

-Max
(full of solutions for all the worlds problems)




From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 28, 2011 9:34:55 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

Been thinking that... The problem is that its got a ball on the end, the rod I 
think moved in a somewhat eliptical motion so the ball keeps it from getting 
stuck. I *think* I could shorten and weld a new ball on or take the length from 
the center and weld the ball back on to the end.

Still since I don't know how much length needs to come out and since its 
moderately annoying to do the swap, it'd be way easier if somebody had the 
actual correct part.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 20:51:10 -0600
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID:
aanlktimsf_vom6hwk7s3qltsdm6fsvjdem3tz+wuq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Now that you have two that are too long, you can take a Dremel with a
cut-off disk and a grinding stone and shorten one till it works right ---
just thought I'd throw that out there for consideration ;-)

On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey,

 Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could rob the
 actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got on my '78 now
 seems to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty which is exactly the
 same. The clutch on this car actuates really high since I inadvertently put
 in a too new clutch rod and again inadvertently threw the old rod away...

 -Curt --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread MG
Since you seem to have two that are too long why not just cut one 
shorter by 1/8 at a time till you get to a comfortable length? 
That's what I would do.


Manfred



Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 18:39:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: 280053.2302...@web32805.mail.mud.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hey,

Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they 
could rob the actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The 
one I got on my '78 now seems to be too long. I got a replacement 
from Rusty which is exactly the same. The clutch on this car 
actuates really high since I inadvertently put in a too new 
clutch rod and again inadvertently threw the old rod away...


-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
That'd work. Best thing for me would actually be a pic of the rod next to/on a 
ruler...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 09:19:54 -0600
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: 20110228091954.705ded9d.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

  curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they
  could rob the actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder?
  The one I got on my '78 now seems to be too long. I got a
  replacement from Rusty which is exactly the same.

 OK Don wrote:

 Now that you have two that are too long, you can take a Dremel
 with a cut-off disk and a grinding stone and shorten one till
 it works right

I'm not willing to part with mine - but I can measure it. 

--       Philip



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
Thats a pretty good idea though I'm not sure my fabrication skills are up to 
it... The rod isn't very long (3 maybe) and a majority of it lives in a 
bellows thing...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 07:44:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: 468265.78694...@web180004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

How about cutting out the middle and replacing with some threaded rod deal, so 
you can adjust by turning the center portion and then locking in place with a 
couple of locking nuts, similar to the adjustable throttle linkages or the 
linkage for the self-leveling rear suspension.  Trick would be to have threads 
right-hand at one end, and left-hand at the other.

_OR_

If the ball end doesn't care which end is up, make that end the part that 
turns, 
and you only need right-handed threads and one lock nut.  In other words, you 
will be re-engineering so the awkward cam/nut adjustment becomes redundant, 
replaced by something easier to adjust and with a greater range of adjustment.

Trick will be to make it stiff and strong like the original.

-Max
(full of solutions for all the worlds problems)




  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-28 Thread Curt Raymond
You haven't been following along with the other posts, but based on your post I 
understand why! ;)

A. Theres a ball on the end so you can't just cut it off. I could section it I 
suppose, weld the ball back on.

B. Its an annoying fiddly job to get it in and out.

C. Assuming Rusty can get the correct part its ~$10. Not much of my time has to 
be spent to equal $10.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 18:34:02 -0500
From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod
Message-ID: 4d6c30ea.4050...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Since you seem to have two that are too long why not just cut one 
shorter by 1/8 at a time till you get to a comfortable length? 
That's what I would do.

Manfred



  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-27 Thread OK Don
Now that you have two that are too long, you can take a Dremel with a
cut-off disk and a grinding stone and shorten one till it works right ---
just thought I'd throw that out there for consideration ;-)

On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey,

 Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could rob the
 actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got on my '78 now
 seems to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty which is exactly the
 same. The clutch on this car actuates really high since I inadvertently put
 in a too new clutch rod and again inadvertently threw the old rod away...

 -Curt --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch rod

2011-02-27 Thread Dieselhead
Got a Makita grinder?  (or a HF 4.5 grinder?)  Cut it to length and 
grind the end round.



Hey,

Anybody got an old (say pre '80) 240D manual trans what they could 
rob the actuating rod from the clutch master cylinder? The one I got 
on my '78 now seems to be too long. I got a replacement from Rusty 
which is exactly the same. The clutch on this car actuates really 
high since I inadvertently put in a too new clutch rod and again 
inadvertently threw the old rod away...


-Curt



 
___

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-27 Thread Curt Raymond
That explains the unusually high clutch pedal on my '78 240D w/'83 clutch MC... 
Now I'll need to dig through the trash and find the arm from the '78 MC...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 23:32:12 -0600
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual
Message-ID: 20101226233212.b53e1aa8.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Fmiser wrote:

 The supply hose was leaking, so I did a field-expedient repair
 with an incorrect hose.  While under the dash, I noticed the
 master cylinder was leaking a bit.  That was last week.
 Yesterday I found a large puddle of break fluid under the car.
 Seems to be coming off the area around the slave cylinder.
 
 So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system
 service.  Oh - and the brake master cylinder is allowing the
 brake pedal to sink under light pressure, so it too need a
 rebuild.

This too is now complete. 

On the clutch system, Rusty got me a new slave cylinder, new
master cylinder supply hose (used to be a lenth of bulk
hose. Now it's a corrugated, exact-length hose. Part number
003-997-12-52 for about $8).  I took the master cylinder from
a parts car, honed the bore, cleaned it up, and used it.

The clutch master cylinder as a whole seems to be
interchangable - but not the sub parts!  The rods from the
pedal to the piston were NOT the same length, so the rod needs
to stay with the rest of the cylinder.


  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-27 Thread Craig
On Sun, 26 Dec 2010 23:32:12 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system
  service.  Oh - and the brake master cylinder is allowing the
  brake pedal to sink under light pressure, so it too need a
  rebuild.
 
 This too is now complete. 

Congratulations!


 I used the same gear to force clean fluid into the brake
 system from the calipers.

I'm not sure I would have done it from that direction. I'd be concerned
about getting dirty brake fluid into the master cylinder reservoir.


 No leaks - and it all works and feels right.

Again, congratulations!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-27 Thread Fmiser
 On Sun, 26 Dec 2010 23:32:12 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
   So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system
   service.  Oh - and the brake master cylinder is allowing
   the brake pedal to sink under light pressure, so it too
   need a rebuild.
  
  This too is now complete. 

 Craig wrote:
 
 Congratulations!

Thanks! *smiles* And thank you for the manual!

  I used the same gear to force clean fluid into the brake
  system from the calipers.
 
 I'm not sure I would have done it from that direction. I'd be
 concerned about getting dirty brake fluid into the master
 cylinder reservoir.

It did.  And I then sucked all the dirty stuff out of the tank.
Besides, I seem to have a, uhm, well - history of running the
tank dry when I bleed the brakes the other way.  Thought I'd
give this a try.  I considered trying it _before_ the tank was
on by putting a hose into the top of the master cylinder.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-26 Thread Fmiser
 Fmiser wrote:

 The supply hose was leaking, so I did a field-expedient repair
 with an incorrect hose.  While under the dash, I noticed the
 master cylinder was leaking a bit.  That was last week.
 Yesterday I found a large puddle of break fluid under the car.
 Seems to be coming off the area around the slave cylinder.
 
 So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system
 service.  Oh - and the brake master cylinder is allowing the
 brake pedal to sink under light pressure, so it too need a
 rebuild.

This too is now complete. 

On the clutch system, Rusty got me a new slave cylinder, new
master cylinder supply hose (used to be a lenth of bulk
hose. Now it's a corrugated, exact-length hose. Part number
003-997-12-52 for about $8).  I took the master cylinder from
a parts car, honed the bore, cleaned it up, and used it.

The clutch master cylinder as a whole seems to be
interchangable - but not the sub parts!  The rods from the
pedal to the piston were NOT the same length, so the rod needs
to stay with the rest of the cylinder.

Rusty made me a good deal on the brake master cylinder, so I
got a new one.  I was pretty annoyed that none of the
cylinders have rebuild parts available.  I did pull a brake
master cylinder from a parts car, honed the bore, cleaned it
up.  It will now sit on the shelf, ready to be put into
service quickly.

I bled the clutch system from the bottom.  I used a canning
jar.  I took a dome, drilled two holes in it, and soldered a
couple lengths of steel brake line to the holes.  A long one
to reach liquid, and a short one to reach air.  Works for both
vacuum and pressure, though using it for pressure worked
better after I did make an extra gasket from an old
inner-tube.

I used the same gear to force clean fluid into the brake
system from the calipers.

I was using a bicycle tire pump as the pressure source.  I'm
going to look for a pressure regulator for my shop compressor
that will regulate at less than 10 psi.

No leaks - and it all works and feels right.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-11 Thread Rolf
I have the manual manual in pdf form lying around somewhere. It covers 
the manual trans in pretty much every mb made in the mid 70s to mid80s 
(no 201 or 124 stuff). If you are interested I can email you a url. I 
think its about ye (100mb) big.


-Rolf

On 12/10/2010 10:23 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

Is there a Mercedes manual section regarding clutch cylinder install
bleeding?  I cannot find that section in my Mercedes manuals anywhere.
I have the Haynes manual also, but have only pressure bled the clutch
from the brake reservoir - down to the slave bleed.  My son does my
work told me I will be the one bleeding the clutch from the bottom,
because he has had too many brake fluid baths in the past to
appreciate them anymore.  His logic is not bad - pressure feeding
fluid in to the bleed screw is problematic and tends to encourage
brake fluid bathing - the bleed nipple is not a good pressure fitting.

If someone can cite the Mercedes manual section referencing bleed the
clutch from the bottom up and the equipment to do that - my son will
do that, but not if it is Haynes - he has too much bad experience from
the junk in Haynes.

Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-11 Thread Craig
On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 09:40:14 -0500 Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

 I have the manual manual in pdf form lying around somewhere. It covers 
 the manual trans in pretty much every mb made in the mid 70s to mid80s 
 (no 201 or 124 stuff). If you are interested I can email you a url. I 
 think its about ye (100mb) big.

Please post the URL to the list.

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-11 Thread Mountain Man
Rolf wrote:
 I have the manual manual in pdf form lying around somewhere. It covers the
 manual trans in pretty much every mb made in the mid 70s to mid80s (no 201
 or 124 stuff). If you are interested I can email you a url. I think its
 about ye (100mb) big.

Yes - please post the url - I want to see the factory manual on
bleeding the system.
Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-11 Thread Fmiser
 Rolf wrote:

 I have the manual manual in pdf form lying around somewhere.
 It covers the manual trans in pretty much every mb made in the
 mid 70s to mid80s (no 201 or 124 stuff). If you are interested
 I can email you a url. I think its about ye (100mb) big.

Oh.   I'd like a copy of that.

A URL would be great! If you don't want the URL in the list
archive, just send it to me directly. 

Thanks!

-- Philip


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-10 Thread Craig
On Thu, 9 Dec 2010 07:07:25 -0700 Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

  So I'll tackle the project without a manual - but if it includes any
  useful tricks I'd be mighty grateful for a copy!
 
 I have already put it in my briefcase.

The scanned file is attached.


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-10 Thread Mountain Man
Is there a Mercedes manual section regarding clutch cylinder install 
bleeding?  I cannot find that section in my Mercedes manuals anywhere.
I have the Haynes manual also, but have only pressure bled the clutch
from the brake reservoir - down to the slave bleed.  My son does my
work told me I will be the one bleeding the clutch from the bottom,
because he has had too many brake fluid baths in the past to
appreciate them anymore.  His logic is not bad - pressure feeding
fluid in to the bleed screw is problematic and tends to encourage
brake fluid bathing - the bleed nipple is not a good pressure fitting.

If someone can cite the Mercedes manual section referencing bleed the
clutch from the bottom up and the equipment to do that - my son will
do that, but not if it is Haynes - he has too much bad experience from
the junk in Haynes.

Thanks.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-09 Thread Craig
On Thu, 9 Dec 2010 00:39:10 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Craig wrote:
 
  I wish you success.
 
 Thanks. :)  This is at the same time the wagon's suspension
 system has it sidelined and the Suburban is iffy 'cause of a
 transmission acting funny.  Why can't these cars take turns
 needing service?

Indeed! It's like they get together and gang up on you, isn't it?


 So I'll tackle the project without a manual - but if it includes any
 useful tricks I'd be mighty grateful for a copy!

I have already put it in my briefcase.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-09 Thread Mountain Man
I replaced the master cylinder 2 years ago, and the slave tonight.
It took a week to get the correct part.  Somehow my 84 euro 240D does
not fit the chassis number cut-off in the EPC, or something, so the
wrong slave was gotten.  In calling the Classic Center, they provided
the proper part number - how they know things... I don't know, but I
would like to know how so that I can direct the parts guy next time,
whether that be Rusty, or dealer.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-08 Thread Craig
On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 18:42:43 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

 I can't find it.
 
 Am I blind?
 
 I have the CD, but can't seem to find a section on the clutch
 system.

What do you want to know about it?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-08 Thread Fmiser
  On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 18:42:43 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  I can't find it.
  
  Am I blind?
  
  I have the CD, but can't seem to find a section on the clutch
  system.

 Craig wrote:
 
 What do you want to know about it?

Everything about the control system. *grin*

The supply hose was leaking, so I did a field-expedite repair
with an incorrect hose.  While under the dash, I noticed the
master cylinder was leaking a bit.  That was last week.
Yesterday I found a large puddle of break fluid under the car.
Seems to be coming off the area around the slave cylinder.

So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system
service.  Oh - and the brake master cylinder is allowing the
brake pedal to sink under light pressure, so it too need a
rebuild.

But I found the section in the manual for the brakes.

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-08 Thread Craig
On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 20:27:16 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Craig wrote:
  
  What do you want to know about it?
 
 Everything about the control system. *grin*

I don't know if I'd call it a control system, but it's not that
difficult. 

I did look in my paper manuals (Engine manual and both volumes of the
Chassis and Body manual) for information, but found only job 03-410,
Removal and installation of flywheel and driven plate, and job 03-420,
Refacing flywheel, to be related to the manual clutch in any way.

I thought I had seen something that at least talked about bleeding the
clutch, but I cannot find that either!


 The supply hose was leaking, so I did a field-expedite repair with an
 incorrect hose.  While under the dash, I noticed the master cylinder
 was leaking a bit.  That was last week. Yesterday I found a large
 puddle of break fluid under the car. Seems to be coming off the area
 around the slave cylinder.
 
 So it looks like I get to do a complete hydraulic system service.  Oh -
 and the brake master cylinder is allowing the brake pedal to sink
 under light pressure, so it too need a rebuild.
 
 But I found the section in the manual for the brakes.

So everything hydraulic needs to be looked at.

The master cylinder for the brakes and its affiliated appurtenances are
the more complicated part of the system.

The clutch system has one master cylinder and one slave cylinder. The
master cylinder is fed by a rubber/cloth hose from the rear section of
the brake fluid reservoir. That goes through the firewall to the inlet of
the clutch master cylinder. The outlet of the clutch master cylinder is
connected to a hard line that goes through the firewall near to the bell
housing. A short flex line jumps the gap between the body and the bell
housing and connects to another hard line that goes to the slave
cylinder, which actually does the work of pushing on the clutch actuator.

The leak at the master cylinder can be due to the connection of the hard
line being loose. That was the problem on our car when I found a
brake-fluid-saturated (and ruined) driver's carpet.

Both the master and the slave cylinders, of course, are subject to
leaking gaskets and seals. I used to rebuild them, but don't anymore. Q
has the parts you need.

I found the best way to bleed the clutch is by pressure bleeding from the
slave cylinder bleed screw. That has the potential of over-filling the
brake fluid reservoir. Others say one should connect one of the front
brake caliper bleed screws to the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and
pump the brakes. That risks ruining the brake master cylinder by running
the seals onto a region that hasn't been much used and is therefore rough.
Still others say start the car in gear and drive around until the clutch
self-bleeds.

I wish you success.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-08 Thread Craig
On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 21:17:07 -0700 Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 I did look in my paper manuals (Engine manual and both volumes of the
 Chassis and Body manual) for information, but found only job 03-410,
 Removal and installation of flywheel and driven plate, and job 03-420,
 Refacing flywheel, to be related to the manual clutch in any way.
 
 I thought I had seen something that at least talked about bleeding the
 clutch, but I cannot find that either!

Well, I did find something about it. The information is in my Haynes
manual, MERCEDES-BENZ DIESEL 123 Series, part number 63012 (697), in
Chapter 8, Clutch and driveline.

If you want, I can take the manual to work tomorrow and scan it on our
copier (which does network scanning by making PDF files).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch in the 123 service manual

2010-12-08 Thread Fmiser
 Craig wrote:

 The leak at the master cylinder can be due to the connection
 of the hard line being loose. That was the problem on our car
 when I found a brake-fluid-saturated (and ruined) driver's
 carpet.

Aaah. I had not though of that.  I'll definitely check that
before deciding it must come out. 

 Both the master and the slave cylinders, of course, are
 subject to leaking gaskets and seals. I used to rebuild them,
 but don't anymore. Q has the parts you need.

I was figuring on rebuilding both masters and the clutch slave.

 I wish you success.

Thanks. :)  This is at the same time the wagon's suspension
system has it sidelined and the Suburban is iffy 'cause of a
transmission acting funny.  Why can't these cars take turns
needing service?

 If you want, I can take the manual to work tomorrow and scan
 it on our copier (which does network scanning by making PDF
 files).

Well, I'm familiar with the concept of the system.  And I'm
comfortable rebuilding cylinders, etc.  But the manual can be
handy for the sneaky bits - like which bolts have to come out to
get the clutch master cylinder out.  And bolt torques for
re-assembly.  So I'll tackle the project without a manual - but
if it includes any useful tricks I'd be mighty grateful for a
copy!

--Philip



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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-29 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Yep!
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Craig
Sent: Tue 11/23/2010 9:39 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?



On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:27:49 -0500 Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 I bought the Motive power bleeder with attachment for MB reservoirs
 (about $40 plus shipping IIRC), and it is mighty nice to use (when
 properly set-up so it doesn't leak).  Some extra pieces and parts would
 be needed to attach to the clutch slave bleeder nipple - should be
 available for about $3 at local hardware store.

Like the attached picture shows?


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-29 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Dieselhead wrote Plus if the master is adjusted
per the procedure Max posted, it can't self bleed.  It probably would
if you adjusted the eccentric so that the fluid WOULD flow up into
the master.  That should allow self-bleeding, except maybe the slave,
depending on how it is oriented.

I think that the procedure I posted would still allow it to self-bleed, because 
of the 1 mm spacer used.  Once the spacer is pulled out, the clutch pedal and 
the master cylinder rod would move back, and open the internal ports which 
allow the fluid and air to freely flow up/down?  I don't know, never used the 
procedure I posted, I simply installed the new parts, drove around in first 
gear until they self-bled and worked, and left good enough alone.  Maybe I got 
lucky.
 
Is it better to be lucky or good?
 
-Max




From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Wed 11/24/2010 8:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?



The 110 diesels would self bleed if you just opened the bleed screw a
little.  When it dripped a steady stream, close the bleeder.  I
usually tried then to let is sit overnight in case any lil air
bubbles are trapped inside.  Apparently the tube routing is more
complicated on 123 and newer cars.  Plus if the master is adjusted
per the procedure Max posted, it can't self bleed.  It probably would
if you adjusted the eccentric so that the fluid WOULD flow up into
the master.  That should allow self-bleeding, except maybe the slave,
depending on how it is oriented.

Concur, that's why I recommended and successfully have used the
procedure that Marshall Booth promoted: allow it to self bleed by
driving around in first gear for a few minutes.  Worked great on a 123
and a 201.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 10:31 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

This sounds awfully complicated. On my 115, I just opened the bleed
screw, moved the pedal up and down a few times, and called it a day.
Seems to be working fine ever since.

Someone wrote:
  The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because
  that system being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC
  rise, you MUST have a pressure bleed device, which I don't.


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-29 Thread Dieselhead

Ah!  I forgot about the spacer.  Yes, that is probably what lets it self bleed


Dieselhead wrote Plus if the master is adjusted
per the procedure Max posted, it can't self bleed.  It probably would
if you adjusted the eccentric so that the fluid WOULD flow up into
the master.  That should allow self-bleeding, except maybe the slave,
depending on how it is oriented.

I think that the procedure I posted would still allow it to 
self-bleed, because of the 1 mm spacer used.  Once the spacer is 
pulled out, the clutch pedal and the master cylinder rod would move 
back, and open the internal ports which allow the fluid and air to 
freely flow up/down?  I don't know, never used the procedure I 
posted, I simply installed the new parts, drove around in first gear 
until they self-bled and worked, and left good enough alone.  Maybe 
I got lucky.


Is it better to be lucky or good?

-Max




From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Wed 11/24/2010 8:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?



The 110 diesels would self bleed if you just opened the bleed screw a
little.  When it dripped a steady stream, close the bleeder.  I
usually tried then to let is sit overnight in case any lil air
bubbles are trapped inside.  Apparently the tube routing is more
complicated on 123 and newer cars.  Plus if the master is adjusted
per the procedure Max posted, it can't self bleed.  It probably would
if you adjusted the eccentric so that the fluid WOULD flow up into
the master.  That should allow self-bleeding, except maybe the slave,
depending on how it is oriented.


Concur, that's why I recommended and successfully have used the
procedure that Marshall Booth promoted: allow it to self bleed by
driving around in first gear for a few minutes.  Worked great on a 123
and a 201.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 10:31 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

This sounds awfully complicated. On my 115, I just opened the bleed
screw, moved the pedal up and down a few times, and called it a day.
Seems to be working fine ever since.

Someone wrote:

  The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because
  that system being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC
  rise, you MUST have a pressure bleed device, which I don't.



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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-24 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Thanks for sharing that link - I learned that there is an inverse
relationship between the number of pirates and the global average
temperature (number of pirates is in steady decline, temperature is
increasing, ergo the solution is more pirates). 

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 2010 8:31 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

As in - http://www.venganza.org/about/open-letter/ ???

On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 1:06 PM, Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

 . I'll stick to the FSM...

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-24 Thread David Bruckmann
This sounds awfully complicated. On my 115, I just opened the bleed screw, 
moved the pedal up and down a few times, and called it a day. Seems to be 
working fine ever since. 

Someone wrote:
 The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because 
 that system being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC 
 rise, you MUST have a pressure bleed device, which I don't.


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-24 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Concur, that's why I recommended and successfully have used the
procedure that Marshall Booth promoted: allow it to self bleed by
driving around in first gear for a few minutes.  Worked great on a 123
and a 201.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 10:31 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

This sounds awfully complicated. On my 115, I just opened the bleed
screw, moved the pedal up and down a few times, and called it a day.
Seems to be working fine ever since. 

Someone wrote:
 The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because 
 that system being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC 
 rise, you MUST have a pressure bleed device, which I don't.


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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-24 Thread Craig
On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:27:49 -0500 Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 I bought the Motive power bleeder with attachment for MB reservoirs
 (about $40 plus shipping IIRC), and it is mighty nice to use (when
 properly set-up so it doesn't leak).  Some extra pieces and parts would
 be needed to attach to the clutch slave bleeder nipple - should be
 available for about $3 at local hardware store.

Like the attached picture shows?


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-24 Thread Dieselhead
The 110 diesels would self bleed if you just opened the bleed screw a 
little.  When it dripped a steady stream, close the bleeder.  I 
usually tried then to let is sit overnight in case any lil air 
bubbles are trapped inside.  Apparently the tube routing is more 
complicated on 123 and newer cars.  Plus if the master is adjusted 
per the procedure Max posted, it can't self bleed.  It probably would 
if you adjusted the eccentric so that the fluid WOULD flow up into 
the master.  That should allow self-bleeding, except maybe the slave, 
depending on how it is oriented.



Concur, that's why I recommended and successfully have used the
procedure that Marshall Booth promoted: allow it to self bleed by
driving around in first gear for a few minutes.  Worked great on a 123
and a 201.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 10:31 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

This sounds awfully complicated. On my 115, I just opened the bleed
screw, moved the pedal up and down a few times, and called it a day.
Seems to be working fine ever since.

Someone wrote:

 The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because
 that system being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC
 rise, you MUST have a pressure bleed device, which I don't.



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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-23 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I bought the Motive power bleeder with attachment for MB reservoirs (about $40 
plus shipping IIRC), and it is mighty nice to use (when properly set-up so it 
doesn't leak).  Some extra pieces and parts would be needed to attach to the 
clutch slave bleeder nipple - should be available for about $3 at local 
hardware store.

Now that I have three cars with ABS, the bleeder is pretty much a necessity.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 9:36 PM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

Including rotating that dammed eccentric bolt which is a BASTARD if I'm honest 
about it... Fortunately it just occurred to me to hold the thing with needle 
nose pliers so you can tighten the other bolt, you really can't use a wrench...

So my take on it, put a 1mm thick shim between the rubber clutch stop and the 
pedal.
Apply less than 2 bar pressure (using brake fluid) to the bleeder on the slave, 
open said bleeder and adjust the eccentric until the fluid level in the MC 
stops rising.

The problem is for this one you can't use the brake system because that system 
being a closed system it can't make the level in the MC rise, you MUST have a 
pressure bleed device, which I don't.

*sigh* time to build a pressure bleed device I guess.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 14:01:38 -0500
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,    53310
    meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?
Message-ID:
    
1370e90cffd2ac4b8cb65267ba10c4b80369d...@naeachrlez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Here you go.  Procedure looks like it calls for a pressure bleeder to maintain 
pressure (2 bar maximum) at the bleeder screw of the slave; rather fiddly.

-Max 


  
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Re: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?

2010-11-23 Thread Rolf

. I'll stick to the FSM...

-Rolf


On 11/20/2010 08:31 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

Curt,

Try this before anything else: self-bleed the clutch!   Put the car into first 
gear, pointed in a safe direction to start driving (i.e. out into the street, 
hopefully with no traffic or very light traffic).  Let out clutch pedal, and 
don't touch it for the next five minutes.  Ensure MC reservoir is full full 
full!

Glow, and start the car, leaving the transmission in gear.  Drive around in 
first gear for five minutes or so.  After a couple of minutes, gingerly test 
the clutch pedal for firmness - if it goes to the floor, be prepared to pull it 
back to upright position (it will not self-bleed if pedal depressed, must be in 
upright position to open the port in the MC to allow fluid to freely flow 
to/from the reservoir).

Check the MC reservoir when done to see if you need to top it up.

You may need to start the car in neutral and let it warm up a bit before trying 
this to make sure it will start in gear.  Reverse would bleed just as well 
except not as easy to drive around in reverse for five minutes.

I've successfully used this method on a 123 and a 201, and I've never had to use the 
official method of hooking a hose between front right brake caliper and 
clutch slave bleeder, opening both bleeders, and then pump the brakes to circulate fluid 
through the clutch circuit.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Curt Raymond
Sent: Thu 11/18/2010 7:11 PM
To: Diesel List
Cc: Dwight Giles
Subject: [MBZ] Clutch bleed procedure?



Anybody happen to know the procedure to bleed the clutch on a '78 240D?
I messed around with mine today, the master cylinder was the issue. I figured 
that after I pulled the slave and realized the one in the car was better than 
the one from my parts car...

The plunger at the top of the master came out of the cylinder when I took it 
out, pretty good hint eh? I can also see where its been leaking.
I got the replacement (from my parts car, hurray for a parts car!) in and have 
gotten it to the point where it'll at least self return but before going any 
farther I wanted to check in.
It seems like it'd bleed just like brakes, have somebody pump the clutch a 
bunch, then hold it down and open the bleeder. Sound right?

That bleeder is a BASTARD to get at...

-Curt




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