Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-25 Thread Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
I'm taking it ('05 e320) to my indy Friday to see what needs to be done.
When I called him and I described the symptoms as those that would lead to
axle replacement in a W123, he echoed many of the things y'all said knowing
this is a W211. We will see what he finds out.

Bob R
On Feb 24, 2015 8:57 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Good point.  People, please include the YEAR and MODEL of your car, and if
 you're talking about the weather indicate WHERE you are.



 On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:01 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

Curly wrote:
 
 
   Since this car is post-1986...
 
 
  Uh oh.  My post was for a S or W123.
 
  Bob R didn't mention the car.  Looks like maybe I jumped to the
  wrong conclusion.
 
 
  Yeah, he did somewhere.  05 E320 i think.  211 maybe?
 
  That's why I think it will need the triple square socket rather than a
  clip inside the Diff.
 
  I forgot to mention, it is good form to put neverseeze on the 6 triple
  square capscrews if you think you might keep the car more than a couple
  years.  Especially if it travels well salted roads.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

  Curly wrote:


 Since this car is post-1986...


Uh oh.  My post was for a S or W123.

Bob R didn't mention the car.  Looks like maybe I jumped to the
wrong conclusion.


Yeah, he did somewhere.  05 E320 i think.  211 maybe?

That's why I think it will need the triple square socket rather than 
a clip inside the Diff.


I forgot to mention, it is good form to put neverseeze on the 6 
triple square capscrews if you think you might keep the car more than 
a couple years.  Especially if it travels well salted roads.


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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 Since this car is post-1986...

Uh oh.  My post was for a S or W123.

Bob R didn't mention the car.  Looks like maybe I jumped to the
wrong conclusion.

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Less than an hour to do all that??  How would you like a free trip to D.C.?

On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 12:00 PM, fmiser via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

  Bob wrote:
 
  So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

 No. It's not a bad job.

 Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
 less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
 car back on the ground. I've done it a few (too many) times.
 And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately
 began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

 Here's my procedure

  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
drain plugs.

  * While the oil is draining:

 - take off the wheel(s)

 - take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
   come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
   always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
   by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
   than necessary.

 - remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
   hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
   in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
   shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
   but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

  * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
high.

  * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
called the differential jack) and remove the four bolts
that hold the differential mount to the frame.

  * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
differential changes impossible to merely challenging.
The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
is removed.

  * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
the retainer clip.

  * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

  * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
differential.

 Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.

  * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
together more easily.

  * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
differential.

  * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

  * With the differential jack lower the differential.

  * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

  * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
spec.

  * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
spec.

  * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

  * Put the brake caliper back on.

  * Put the wheel on.

  * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

  * Remove the differential jack.

  * Lower the car to the ground.

 Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
 clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
 for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

 --   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Tue, 24 Feb 2015 11:00:40 -0600 fmiser via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  Bob wrote:
  
  So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

   
 
 Here's my procedure
 
  * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
differential oil.


This, of course, is applicable to W123s and not to the newer car about
which Bob was asking.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Bob wrote:
 
 So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

No. It's not a bad job. 

Last time I replaced an axle shaft (on a wagon) it took me
less than an hour from putting the jack under the car to the
car back on the ground. I've done it a few (too many) times.
And I had just done it (the replacement axle shaft immediately
began leaking) so all the bolts were clean and greased.

Here's my procedure

 * Jack up the car enough to get under to drain the
   differential oil.  It's a Good Idea (TM) to make sure the
   fill plug can be opened before you drain.  The higher the
   back of the car is jacked up, the less oil will drain out,
   so I only jack up the car enough to get to the fill and
   drain plugs.

 * While the oil is draining:

- take off the wheel(s)

- take off the brake caliper.  Yes, it really does need to
  come off.  I have tried many tricks to avoid it and
  always had to take it off.  Don't let the caliper hang
  by the hose, and try not to twist/stress the hose more
  than necessary.

- remove the bolt that keeps the axle shaft in the wheel
  hub and push on the axle shaft to make sure it's loose
  in the hub.  I have never used a tool like the manual
  shows.  Occasionally I have had to tap the shaft out,
  but it's never been more than just a bit stiff.

 * Once the oil is fully drained, jack up the back of the car
   to working height.  I like to have the lower shock mount
   about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) off the floor.  I get it this
   high just to make it easier for me to work under there -
   none of the parts install/removal process need the car that
   high.

 * Put a jack under the front of the differential (after this
   called the differential jack) and remove the four bolts
   that hold the differential mount to the frame.

 * Remove the differential back cover. Lower the differential
   a bit with the differential jack will make getting to the
   top bolts much easier.  This part is especially tricky on a
   wagon because the fuel tank and the suspension control
   valve conspire to get in the way.  Lowering the
   differential changes impossible to merely challenging.
   The shape of the lip on the differential housing means
   little or no oil will run out when the differential cover
   is removed.

 * Pull the retainer clip from the axle shaft.  I have a piece
   of steel wire with the end bent about 95 degrees.  The bent
   end fits into the hole in the retainer clip.  I grip the
   other end of the wire with vise grips and pull to remove
   the retainer clip.

 * With the differential jack, jack the differential up as
   high as it will go. This should mean it runs into the car
   body and is just a bit higher than it's normal position.

 * Pull/push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, slide it
   past the hub toward the back of the car, and once that end
   is free, pull the other end of the axle shaft out of the
   differential.

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse.  

 * First, clean the splines in the wheel hub and if necessary,
   on the replacement axle shaft.  I lightly grease the axle
   shaft splines to retard corrosion and make it all slide
   together more easily.

 * Put the differential end of the axle shaft into the
   differential.

 * Put the wheel end of the axle shaft into the wheel hub.

 * With the differential jack lower the differential.

 * Put the axle shaft retainer clip on in the differential.
   Put the wheel hub retainer bolt in and snug it.

 * Put the differential cover on and tighten the bolts to
   spec.

 * Using the differential jack, lift the differential so the
   differential mount bolts can be put back in. Tighten to
   spec.

 * Tighten the axle shaft wheel hub bolt to spec.

 * Put the brake caliper back on.

 * Put the wheel on.

 * Put Mobil 1 differential fluid in the differential.

 * Remove the differential jack.

 * Lower the car to the ground.

Things not specifically mentioned, but that always apply are:
clean mating surfaces, clean bolt threads, drink beer, look
for worn/missing/damaged other parts nearby, etc.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-24 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Good point.  People, please include the YEAR and MODEL of your car, and if
you're talking about the weather indicate WHERE you are.



On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:01 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

   Curly wrote:


  Since this car is post-1986...


 Uh oh.  My post was for a S or W123.

 Bob R didn't mention the car.  Looks like maybe I jumped to the
 wrong conclusion.


 Yeah, he did somewhere.  05 E320 i think.  211 maybe?

 That's why I think it will need the triple square socket rather than a
 clip inside the Diff.

 I forgot to mention, it is good form to put neverseeze on the 6 triple
 square capscrews if you think you might keep the car more than a couple
 years.  Especially if it travels well salted roads.


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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes

yep

--R


On 2/23/15 3:36 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 13:03:02 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


No this wasn't meant for Banned. When I turn to the right while
accelerating, I hear a clicking in the rear end. When I turn to the
right and I am NOT accelerating, I do not hear that clunking. What is
going on?

Sounds like you have a rear-axle half-shaft going bad.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

Bob R
On Feb 23, 2015 2:01 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 yep

 --R


 On 2/23/15 3:36 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

 On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 13:03:02 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  No this wasn't meant for Banned. When I turn to the right while
 accelerating, I hear a clicking in the rear end. When I turn to the
 right and I am NOT accelerating, I do not hear that clunking. What is
 going on?

 Sounds like you have a rear-axle half-shaft going bad.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 14:07:26 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

No, you do not, though it would be much easier on a lift.

BTW, what vehicle are you asking about?

I changed the half-shafts on our W123 240D/3.0 when we were in Austin, TX,
in our garage.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
My 05 e320.  crawling underneath the car up on jackstands has lost its
allure. This may be something I fix with my checkbook.

Bob R
On Feb 23, 2015 2:13 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 14:07:26 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

 No, you do not, though it would be much easier on a lift.

 BTW, what vehicle are you asking about?

 I changed the half-shafts on our W123 240D/3.0 when we were in Austin, TX,
 in our garage.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Rich Thomas via Mercedes
Put the back up on stands, loosen the diff from its support bracket and 
let it down a bit (I think with a jack?) which frees up the axles to 
slide out/in.  You need to take off the diff cover to get at some 
retainer rings in there (quite fiddly, I remember that part!), so make 
sure you can get the filler plug off first so you can fill it back up 
after.  It is actually not too hard, just fiddly.  There are seals too 
you got to be careful of.


The first one I did took a coupla hours then the other side was a lot 
faster.  I vaguely recall the brake rotors have to come off to get the 
axle out of the axle/wheel carrier/bearing (it was quite a while ago I 
did so the details are a bit vague).  This was on the 123 TD, not sure 
what your car is but it is probably a similar process if yours is different.


There is a procedure in the manual that is fairly straightforward. Not 
too hard, but you have to get under the car and it can be a bit tight to 
do it while on your back lifting stuff around and reaching into the 
diff.  Be a good opportunity to refresh the diff lube too.


--R


On 2/23/15 4:07 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:


So how difficult of a job is that? I reckon you gotta have a lift.

Bob R

On Feb 23, 2015 2:01 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


yep

--R


On 2/23/15 3:36 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 13:03:02 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

No this wasn't meant for Banned. When I turn to the right
while
accelerating, I hear a clicking in the rear end. When I
turn to the
right and I am NOT accelerating, I do not hear that
clunking. What is
going on?

Sounds like you have a rear-axle half-shaft going bad.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Mon, 23 Feb 2015 13:03:02 -0700 Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 No this wasn't meant for Banned. When I turn to the right while
 accelerating, I hear a clicking in the rear end. When I turn to the
 right and I am NOT accelerating, I do not hear that clunking. What is
 going on?

Sounds like you have a rear-axle half-shaft going bad.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I was unable to get a triple square female socket some years ago when I was 
going to replace the diff on my 190D. Fred ended up giving me what I think was 
a head bolt that had the correct piece, I'd intended to weld it into a socket 
but never got around to it, ended up replacing the car since the tinworm was 
already pretty severe into it.
IIRC all 201 and later cars have the externally accessible bolts.
-Curt
  From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 5:06 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear
   
Put the back up on stands, loosen the diff from its support bracket 
and let it down a bit (I think with a jack?) which frees up the 
axles to slide out/in.  You need to take off the diff cover to get 
at some retainer rings in there (quite fiddly, I remember that 
part!), so make sure you can get the filler plug off first so you 
can fill it back up after.  It is actually not too hard, just 
fiddly.  There are seals too you got to be careful of.

Since this car is post-1986, I am pretty sure they don't use the 
retainer inside the diff.  There will be 6 big triple square allen 
type capscrews at the DIff end.  No need to drop the diff.  One bolt 
at the outer end of the axle.

Best to order the triple square socket online, as it will probably 
NOT be at FLAPS, but snappy may have it.

Also remember the list experience that replacement new/rebuilt axles 
are no good.  So finding a good used one at car-part.com is a good 
route.

I've had good luck with used ones except for two that some from 
someone Kaleb sent me to in OK.

You have tri-star in your back yard.



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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Put the back up on stands, loosen the diff from its support bracket 
and let it down a bit (I think with a jack?) which frees up the 
axles to slide out/in.  You need to take off the diff cover to get 
at some retainer rings in there (quite fiddly, I remember that 
part!), so make sure you can get the filler plug off first so you 
can fill it back up after.  It is actually not too hard, just 
fiddly.  There are seals too you got to be careful of.


Since this car is post-1986, I am pretty sure they don't use the 
retainer inside the diff.  There will be 6 big triple square allen 
type capscrews at the DIff end.  No need to drop the diff.  One bolt 
at the outer end of the axle.


Best to order the triple square socket online, as it will probably 
NOT be at FLAPS, but snappy may have it.


Also remember the list experience that replacement new/rebuilt axles 
are no good.  So finding a good used one at car-part.com is a good 
route.


I've had good luck with used ones except for two that some from 
someone Kaleb sent me to in OK.


You have tri-star in your back yard.

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes

W123 or W124?

W124 the axles bolt to a cup on the side of the diff, you don't have  
to open it up.  Hexhead bolts, though.


Not a bad job except that the exhaust has to be dropped on the  
driver's side to get the half shaft out.


Just changed one on my brother's 300E a couple weeks ago.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes

The outer joint on a half shaft is bad.

Replace with a good used one or new -- new is expensive.  rebuilt is  
usually junk.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Klunking in the Rear

2015-02-23 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I would guess left side axle, which is loaded when you turn right.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On February 23, 2015 6:57:21 PM EST, Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
The outer joint on a half shaft is bad.



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