[mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

My 250W halogen work light/garage heater went and melted a hole in an injector 
hose (not while it was installed). Can I repair it with hose and clamps? If so 
what should I do and/or NOT do? Hose type, brand, clamps, kits, any advice will 
help.
Thanks,
Steve 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/67D4A6C7-19C1-48FC-991B-04244043E26A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

Yeah, Collin's the guy. He answered every question I had. You don't repair 
those lines with hose and clamps. He can get me a used one. Problem solved. 
Thanks. 


On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:15 PM, Jack Simon crabs...@gmail.com wrote:

Call Techtonics (503-843-2700) and ask to talk directly to Collin Gyenes 
(pronounced like Guiness, the beer).  He will give you the straight skinny on 
exactly what you can do to resolve the problem.

On 29 Jun 2015, at 17:09, Larry Velez wrote:

Techtonics Tuning sells fuel hose by the foot and they know this engine well 
(or at least used to),  I bet a call to them and you'll get the right hose to 
replace it: 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=indexcPath=2_12_794 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EC82EC2D-2DB3-49B2-8678-63803BCC21FE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/517FA4F6-265F-495C-9B45-B4CA3C920FE9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

It's the hose between the fuel distributor and the injector, I need to figure 
out which cylinder it is. 
I asked him about mixing CIS-E and Motronic components, (it's what I've got) he 
said to get him part numbers of fuel dist., injectors etc and he'll be able to 
recommend what to use with what. 



On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:50 PM, Larry Velez la...@sinu.com wrote:

Great to hear, for everyone else’s benefit in the future – what was the part in 
question here and did Collin say it was NLA (no longer available) new?
 
Someone should invite Collin to this list – I bet he is a wealth of useful info 
– tell him it’s a small awesome group of people.
 
-Larry
91 GTI 16V
 
From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Steven Arguello
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2015 5:34 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair
 
Yeah, Collin's the guy. He answered every question I had. You don't repair 
those lines with hose and clamps. He can get me a used one. Problem solved. 
Thanks. 


On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:15 PM, Jack Simon crabs...@gmail.com wrote:

Call Techtonics (503-843-2700) and ask to talk directly to Collin Gyenes 
(pronounced like Guiness, the beer).  He will give you the straight skinny on 
exactly what you can do to resolve the problem.
 
On 29 Jun 2015, at 17:09, Larry Velez wrote:

Techtonics Tuning sells fuel hose by the foot and they know this engine well 
(or at least used to),  I bet a call to them and you'll get the right hose to 
replace it: 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=indexcPath=2_12_794 

 
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EC82EC2D-2DB3-49B2-8678-63803BCC21FE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/517FA4F6-265F-495C-9B45-B4CA3C920FE9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/81af14c491334946bf046c1ccd3448d1%40MBX082-E1-VA-4.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
MK2-16v group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/0548EDFA-180D-4519-B5E5-68B121F83721%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Tire Rack + mount and balance tires locally... worth it?

[Steven Arguello]

I wonder all the time about that. If you have the tires rotated and balanced 
once a year it's probably worth it. I only use Tire Rack when I'm picky about 
what tires I'm buying, now that's just with my GTi. All other cars, whatever's 
cheapest/easiest. I've been to 4 or 5 different places in the past 10 years and 
I'd say that they're all pretty much the same. 

On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

I just dropped off a car at Tire Kingdom to have a set of four 15" tires 
mounted, balanced with the lifetime balance and rotation option included.  Cost 
is about $110 before tax.  I purchased the tires at Tire Rack because I was 
looking for a good deal.

Anyone else buy tires at Tire Rack then wonder if it would have been better to 
just buy locally? Do places like Tire Kingdom and Tires Plus still charge less 
for mounting and balancing when tires are purchased from them?





-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC_3wwkV_6mDFc-pbbXPRDdhxf3H%3DyBw%3DxjCtxnSZ7wrBg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/3A6560FA-6352-47F2-874F-FA08041EE447%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf

[Steven Arguello]

http://www.cpp.edu/~bvnorum/cars/WSP-521-124-00.pdf

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03EA635C-13FC-4E82-B5B7-240C3A880AD0%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bentley Online

[Steven Arguello]

I struggle every time I have to fire up my Bentley. I found this by accident, 
hopefully it'll last.

http://madsen-jensen.dk/golf/Golf/index.htm

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1B34800C-9153-4523-AFB5-33C6F957AE06%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol Free Gasoline?

[Steven Arguello]

I blame the ethanol for all my corrosion-in-the-fuel-dizzy issues. A few years 
back, water freezing in the fuel lines was a problem out here in the east. 

On Nov 5, 2015, at 5:32 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

What's the deal with this new ethanol free gasoline I am seeing at the local 
wawa gas station?

Anyone using this on their mk2?  Would our cars like drinking this stuff much 
better and help prevent the varnish that happens these days on modern gasoline 
which our cars don't like at all..

Larry
91 GTI 16V
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/o0hsyghorrtg1xljlu5ny2t8.1446762770163%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
<20151105_172822_resized.jpg>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/8859F20B-63DB-498A-8F7E-239CA085702F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf

[Steven Arguello]

I hope so, Larry. I'm in the same boat, it's helped some but I still have some 
serious issues. Mostly from the car having sat in my driveway for too long. 
Nothing comes out of one fuel dizzy (I have 2 sets of everything) and the other 
one never stops, even with the sensor plate at rest. From what I read in the 
manual, with the plate at rest the injector shouldn't even drip. Mine hum 
nicely as soon as I turn on the fuel pump. I even pulled the fuel dizzy off the 
airbox to make sure the plate isn't pressing on the plunger.
I suppose that the plunger or the walls of its housing can wear. Is this the 
most likely reason the injectors are always on?

I got a loaner fuel pressure tester from autozone and it didn't have the right 
fittings. I faked it with hose clamps etc and was able to get one reading of 
75psi before everything got soaked in gas.

As always any help is appreciated.
Steve


On Nov 5, 2015, at 3:22 PM, Larry Velez wrote:

> Awesome,  this could be very useful as I deal with my fuel system issues.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Larry
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Steven Arguello
> Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 3:13 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf
> 
> http://www.cpp.edu/~bvnorum/cars/WSP-521-124-00.pdf
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03EA635C-13FC-4E82-B5B7-240C3A880AD0%40gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cdba21739dcf471fb05a3ba0f3cc1a13%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/4A9086A3-D186-4E3E-A84A-79E8A59C0B6F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Any 020 tranny for sale around north jersey?

[Steven Arguello]

Short version, I yanked the selector rod on my existing trans and now have to 
rebuild the whole thing. 
I saw a guy has 3 in PA in vwvortex, for 150ea. I thought I'd check with you 
first. 
Thanks and never yank before you look,
Steve

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/52AA7003-2B03-4799-8A73-55BBA0211D9A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

[Steven Arguello]

The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the oil pump. 
If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The 16v dizzy runs 
off the cam. 
Does it have A/C? 



On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004  wrote:

I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and planned on 
using it as a project to restore for fun.  I have been driving it as is because 
it worked.  I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect but it was 
getting me around ok with no funky noises.

Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure oil 
buzzer constantly started going off.  I heard a racket of screeches and clunks 
in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed.  So too many wierd 
things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i probably ran the 
car about a minute after before turning it off.  just putting my safety first 
because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a motor.

i had to work and came back to cold car.  i have good fluids and started it up 
for a bit.  it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't know if 
these cars typically do that while warming up.  it wasn't loping the same.  i 
reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the racket sounded 
like its on the drive belt system.  while engine was running only odd thing i 
noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft from the lower plastic 
timing belt cover.  couldn't quite tell if another pully was actually touching 
it.

im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it would 
do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im shaft without 
interference? 

is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up?  i 
sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer.  it has 
power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts.

or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im bearings 
and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting?
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CADF84B2-BAD8-409C-95D8-813D44827BFD%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

[Steven Arguello]

Once and only once I fit myself, 3 big dudes and our snowboards for the 1/2 hr 
trip to our local ski slopes. They complained all the way home about the 
exhaust noise, babies. 

Another time, I bought one of those K-Mart bike racks, it didn't like the shape 
of the GTi's hatch. Only 1 of the bikes was really damaged, at least it was on 
an unused back road.

As a side note, for full disclosure, I've had snowboards, sailboards and 
surfboards fly off the roof at one time or another. We used to call it 
premature ejection. Anyway, I now have a Volvo wagon w/2" hitch and a hitch 
bike rack. Snowboards now always travel inside in either car.

On Dec 24, 2015, at 11:48 AM, Larry Velez wrote:

> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all our 
> cars are small.
>  
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to take 
> it to the dump for me.
>  
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack on 
> it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large item 
> on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be wasted 
> space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit anything 
> inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>  
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>  
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3 
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run 
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>  
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room nor 
> desire to own a pick up truck.
>  
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily is 
> an Audi B5 A4).
>  
> -Larry
>  
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/e91861b7cb534f2b8914a4f374e1a468%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/88630B2D-0344-4D22-86BF-CD7C7711779F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, eventually 
I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth never matched up 
exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 

On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:

i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the marks 
would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks touch when not 
parallel.

what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the cam 
gears is not perfect.

i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed there 
is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?

i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so i 
guess all bets are off.

i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward center of 
cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these cams the lobes 
at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle of the head an using 
those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a tad higher at that point 
than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work or is it a bad sign that the 
heights are just a tad different?

also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and see 
the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each have their 
own part number or can you swap between ok?

i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat and 
press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just fall off.  
not sure if thats how the stock setup is?


i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.  the 
chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of these motors 
up close.


On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips 
 wrote:


When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, the 
marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured they 
were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell immediately that 
it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it did before I messed 
with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam retainer caps on one cam 
so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and rechecked the alignment marks. 
They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled everything and started the engine 
once again. Perfect! The engine revved freely and more quickly than ever. I 
already had a lightened flywheel, and a bunch of other mods done to the engine, 
and with the new cams, the car was noticeably faster than it had ever been. 
Moral of the story is all those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
~Holland
On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004"  wrote:
im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
 
-Larry
 
From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v 
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
 
so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
 
is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
 
i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got colored 
stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i emailed 
them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
 
i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car back 
stock.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be concerned.
~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it. I 
realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the oil 
cooler, the 1.8 only has one. 

On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(


im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.


> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
> 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
> 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
>> differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure 
>> i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>> 
>> 
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>> 
>> the head says:  051103373
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/22ADE48B-6EF9-46BC-BCD2-B73D3E433E30%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My GTi 
had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never passed 
emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care of it. He 
sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic vehicle. No more 
emissions testing. 

On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty clear 
now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me to look 
at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different dimension!

it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to feed 
the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit the bigger 
gear!

the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil pump 
side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that part must 
be what people say hits.

so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.

so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had another 
motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis fueling stuff 
and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?

oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.

> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>> 
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>> 
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
>> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>> 
>> 
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
>> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
>> where mated.
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
>>> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic 
>>> for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under 
>>> the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts 
>>> bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model 
>>> parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, 
>>> not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
>>> 2.0
>>> 
>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
>>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>> 
>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
>>> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
>>> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is 
>>> a big embossed A
>>> 
>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
>>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
>>> utilize an ECU.
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
>>> seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>> 
>>> 
>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
>>> attached, down below that is the part number.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, 

Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes

[Steven Arguello]

I've seen road maps and shareable tracks in .gpx format that I believe were 
created with a rally mapping software called Rally Navigator. They had rally 
style road instructions, might be more than what you're looking for, but still 
pretty cool. 

On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:34 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

What is the best way to share driving routes? Google Maps or a GPS is going to 
take you a certain direction every time. What I want to do is get the routes 
from some nice driving roads then share those with others.  There is a car club 
in the Tampa area that I know has specific route that they drive on occasion 
but I don't even know how they save and share those other than a printed map.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/A5C021CF-A8B7-41AE-884B-C4D4484068EA%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is 
all the way to the right and why it's running rough. 
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?


On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004  wrote:

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i 
checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident not 
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up and 
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so 
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and 
barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox 
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know what to 
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EF0C36EB-F258-4865-A22C-092B8D130A2A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

The stock cams are aligned with marks on the chain sprockets, they face each 
other and flush to the head (at 3 and 9 o'clock) A guy once installed them with 
the marks at 12 o'clock. Luckily the head wasn't mated to the block. 

On Feb 12, 2016, at 6:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
> USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> damac2004
> Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> To: MK2-16v 
> Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
> 
>  
> 
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
> what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
> number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
> 
>  
> 
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i 
> emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
> 
>  
> 
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car 
> back stock.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> 
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
> 
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
> 
>  
> 
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump? 
>  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
> 
>  
> 
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
> where mated.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
> 
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
> 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the 
> bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin 
> that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts 
> when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and 
> their supply was the same.  
> 
>  
> 
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> 
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
> 
>  
> 
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare 
> wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
> 
>  
> 
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a 
> big embossed A
> 
>  
> 
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this still 
> doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil 
> pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they 
> aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> 

[mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

[Steven Arguello]

I have 3 different fuel distributor/pressure regulator/dpr sets. They were all 
at least partially messed up with that white flakey oxidation crap. I wasn’t 
able to get any of the messed up ones to work, but I finally found a 
combination of the 3 that worked. I also cleaned the injectors with my Dad’s 
old drafting pen ultrasonic cleaner. (not sure if that did anything). Car runs 
great. I now run the car at least every other day. Now I can move onto other 
issues.

The most urgent one is the 1/2” of water and ice in the spare tire well. I can 
tell by the high water line there was up to 3” in there. It seems wetter around 
the taillights. The sunroof seal is shot, is that the most likely place that 
water’s getting in? How big of a deal are they to replace?

Water’s also getting in through the doors, with the door panels off water drips 
out of the door onto the rocker. I’ve been replacing the plastic sheet just the 
way I found it, but I’m not sure that it’s the right way. Any tips on how to do 
it right?

Water might also be getting in around the windshield.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B19230BB-233C-4A9C-8A44-2D1601D38362%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

[Steven Arguello]

I was able to free up the plunger on all of fuel dizzies, but on one, fuel 
would come out of the metering ports no matter what position the plunger was in 
and the other, no fuel would come out at all. I tried everything I could think 
of, no change other than the plunger. I didn’t try to open it up any further, 
but I don’t think there’s any way to free them up without taking it apart. 
Maybe there’s a product that dissolves what I guess is aluminum oxidation. 

Now I have it under a cheap home depot plastic tarp and I did try to clean out 
those hoses including 6A that drains towards the back. I also was a little 
shocked at the price of a replacement seal $175. I’ll jump on it once warms up 
outside. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/DF3F8133-7B0B-438C-A741-22D99C7921C7%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

 The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks like 
the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a guess, could 
be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m a little color 
blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the electrical tape go 
to the sensor. 
I think.

There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the block 
is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact opposite 
happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when I 
discovered the second KS.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:

As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a coaxial 
cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of about 20 
gauge, with a braided shield covering it.

~Holland

On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" > wrote:
im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
sensor signal wire?

and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall gong 
to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire from 
outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH the 02 sensor 
signal wire???

this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02 
sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?

whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be fused 
together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached firmly 
inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have to cut 
which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further down the 
line.

 



On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an insulated 
male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a duplex VW 
connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue that you’re 
going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock sensor signals, I 
think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other adjusts the spark 
timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
> wrote:

This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and Audi 
engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 

At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW had 
a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is to 
never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious isn't always 
obvious 

- Matthew -

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips > wrote:

Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but yes, 
one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once you set 
the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2 sensor hooked 
up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least you've resolved a lot 
of your issues. I'm happy for you.

~Holland

On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" > wrote:
well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick plate 
and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then tried to start 
the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than 900 rpm i think.

wow do i feel stupid.  

i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next problem is 
the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and 02 sensor at 
this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some previous owner 
electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together into a bundle thats 
hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this includes a single wire 
that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming from the drivers side.  
halfway it turns from black to brown with vw plastic connectors.

seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the way over 
there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look closer but i 
think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02 sensor connector 
is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 white wires goes into 
the loom.

i have a feeling car isn't even getting a 

[mk2-16v] Finding Engine Letter Codes

[Steven Arguello]

It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought 
because I couldn’t find these.

Finding Engine Letter Codes

The code characters which identify an engine can be easily viewed in the engine 
compartment. The code, GX for example, is given at the beginning of the engine 
number which is stamped on a flat area of the top of the engine block, just 
below the lower edge of the cylinder head and located approximately between the 
No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. The location of the engine number stamp is shown in 
Fig. 1-4. Table a lists engine codes, application information, and major 
specifications.

Fig. 1-4.   Location of stamped engine number and identifying code.



Table a. GTI, Golf, and Jetta Engines


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CB69E57F-66AE-410A-8F2D-0D3BBA0FAA3D%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

So you bought a new 3wire O2 sensor? If so, the black is the signal not the 
ground. (The sensor is grounded through the exhaust?) 
After the orange connector the signal wire back to the ecu is a little thicker 
because it's a coaxial cable, it has a braided shield around the signal wire. 
This shield has a ground and I believe that's the one going to the firewall. 
That's why they look like 2 wires fused into 1. 
(I think, my loom is different.) If I'm way off, I hope someone will let him 
and me know. 

There should be an extra female connector for the 2nd knock sensor, unless they 
cut it off. 


On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:30 PM, damac2004  wrote:

hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor and want 
to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole harness that 
goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock sensor.  don't 
see any special shielded wiring.

the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to the ecu. 
 a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal wire connector 
is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts, looks original to me?

i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti 91 
chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on firewall 
rather than the engine block.

i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and their 
colored wires into the ecu harness. 

bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black wire 
making a left turn into that black ground wire.

so it seems it is wired correctly?   

i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire is a 
ground wire on all car applications.

> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks 
> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a 
> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m 
> a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the 
> electrical tape go to the sensor. 
> I think.
> 
> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
> If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the 
> block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact 
> opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when 
> I discovered the second KS.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a 
> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of 
> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004"  wrote:
> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
> sensor signal wire?
> 
> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall 
> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire 
> from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH the 02 
> sensor signal wire???
> 
> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02 
> sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
> 
> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be 
> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached 
> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have to 
> cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further down 
> the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an 
> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a 
> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue 
> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock 
> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other 
> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
> 
> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and 
> Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 
> 
> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW 
> had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an insulated 
male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a duplex VW 
connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue that you’re 
going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock sensor signals, I 
think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other adjusts the spark 
timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
 wrote:

This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and Audi 
engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 

At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW had 
a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is to 
never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious isn't always 
obvious 

- Matthew -

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips > wrote:

> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but yes, 
> one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once you set 
> the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2 sensor 
> hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least you've 
> resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004"  > wrote:
> well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick 
> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then tried 
> to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than 900 rpm i 
> think.
> 
> wow do i feel stupid.  
> 
> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next problem is 
> the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and 02 sensor at 
> this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some previous owner 
> electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together into a bundle 
> thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this includes a 
> single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming from the 
> drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw plastic 
> connectors.
> 
> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the way 
> over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look closer 
> but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02 sensor 
> connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 white wires 
> goes into the loom.
> 
> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need to 
> get that straight before installing new one.
> 
> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it 
> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing light 
> in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock chip/cams, 
> etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it comes off the 
> idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out but is reacting to 
> pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will help.  
> 
> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
> 
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
> made the car act this way?
> 
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
> held by bolts and gasket.
> 
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was solid 
> wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe would be 
> drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
> 
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
> the car like that.
> 
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort i 
> noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went off.  
> so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole up.  if 
> you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  when i went 
> to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the top.  when i 
> tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
> 
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom was 
> watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i told 
> her its just 

Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

[Steven Arguello]

One of those banjo bolts is a check valve.

On Mar 4, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:

McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be dealer 
only. McMaster does carry banjo bolts, but only in sae. I'm sure the sleeve 
will also be dealer only, unless you want to buy the proper size metric steel 
tubing and cut to fit. McMaster will have metric tubing.

~Holland

> On Mar 4, 2016 15:16, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
> Went to Fastenal this morning (7:30am open time works well for me) 
> 
> Picked up 4 of the 9 metal pieces on this thing.  All in stainless. 
> 
> Now just missing the banjo bolts, metal sleeves and a flange nut I am 
> surprised they didn't have.   True Value is my next stop and maybe McMaster.  
> Might as well put all new hardware on this thing at this point. 
> 
> I'll summarize what size it all is so someone in the future can order all 
> this stuff more easily. 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Larry Velez
> Date:02/29/2016 12:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket 
> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum 
> Hammered.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection. These guys 
> also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:  
> https://www.fastenal.com/
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to paint 
> the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Simon
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
>  
> 
> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit although 
> I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and actually 
> lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting electrical 
> connections.  
> 
>  
> 
> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially since 
> you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old British 
> product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC regulations 
> got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams stores now carry 
> it.  
> 
>  
> 
> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts, 
> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that 
> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.  
> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get them 
> loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest 
> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10 years 
> working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest Fasteners 
> and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts" area consisted 
> of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything imaginable.  
> 
>  
> 
> Good luck...Jack
> 
>  
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016, at 11:25, Larry Velez wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will 
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the 
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more permanent 
> before it all goes back under the car.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/F3B91F00-9091-4BCA-BB05-C7FF9B283C9D%40gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/ngb2qks89juua9o3ygr8jk4s.1457133341754%40email.android.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails 

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

So you’re going to yank the 2.0 and swap in a tdi? I wonder which trans you 
have, there are several.   Give us a heads up when you eBay the old parts.
The last time I had mine smogged it was at a buddy’s shop, they were dyno 
testing them back then and it was close to passing with a hollowed out cat, so 
there’s a lot of headroom. They don’t dyno test anymore here in NJ and anyway 
I’m exempt now as it’s registered as a classic.
Also, if you do go back to a stock suspension, give us another heads up if you 
eBay the coilovers.


> On Apr 25, 2016, at 1:25 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> i think i sold them for best offer on ebay for $75, had allot of interest.  i 
> took a bunch of pictures, etc.
> 
> i noticed on my emissions tests barely anything registered.  so i guess an 
> engine that is basically working with a tune up and new catalytic converter 
> will do that?  i think california cats have to have a 7 year 70,000 warranty 
> on them.  i wonder if it will last.  i don't care to find out, i will be 
> restoring the car for fun to get better at painting, will restore the ac, and 
> put it on stock suspension and let the next person enjoy it.  it has been so 
> annoying driving this thing on coilovers, im surprised the bumper is still 
> attached.  i do love the go kart feel of the chasis, but have been surprised 
> that the bigger tires are allowing me to peel out so easy.  i guess i'm going 
> to have to be carefull when i put the tdi in it.
> 
> On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 9:33:28 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> Congrats.
>  What did you do with the old cams? Just curious. 
> 
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:21 PM, damac2004  
> wrote:
> 
> looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second knock 
> sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.  never 
> detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it seems happy 
> at current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the pedal.  car is 
> definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.
> 
> i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to 
> find out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about the 
> check engine light.  
> 
> this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out to 
> his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a federal 
> emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars from this 
> generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.  he smogged me 
> on the spot and i passed!
> 
> i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to 
> finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this 
> car needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed a 
> light blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a 
> good shop when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these guys 
> at face value.
> 
> thanks for all the help!!!
> 
> i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.  i 
> really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions, never 
> will buy an old gasser again!
> 
> 
> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
> It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2 
> knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors. 
> The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just 
> find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really don't 
> have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother idle is 
> probably due to the stock cams.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004" <
> ...
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/7d1cccff-08d8-42f2-bec2-10ef311a8128%40googlegroups.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to 

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Congrats.
 What did you do with the old cams? Just curious. 

On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:21 PM, damac2004  wrote:

looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second knock 
sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.  never 
detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it seems happy at 
current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the pedal.  car is 
definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.

i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to find 
out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about the check 
engine light.  

this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out to 
his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a federal 
emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars from this 
generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.  he smogged me 
on the spot and i passed!

i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to 
finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this car 
needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed a light 
blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a good shop 
when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these guys at face 
value.

thanks for all the help!!!

i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.  i 
really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions, never 
will buy an old gasser again!


> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
> It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2 
> knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors. 
> The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just 
> find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really don't 
> have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother idle is 
> probably due to the stock cams.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004"  wrote:
> anybody know how long it should take to throw a code?  i just warmed the car 
> up one cycle on the driveway and it didn't throw any codes after, i'm 
> guessing i have to go take it on a nasty drive?
> 
> i am close to taking it in for smog.  i had to go back and trace wires, etc. 
> and fix previous owner crap.  i was worried about the moving timing light so 
> i got another distributor, cap, rotor and wires with the #4 sensor that i 
> didn't have, and the car still wanders with the light making it hard for me 
> to get exact :(  i tried to leave it in a happy spot based on sound.
> 
> it turns out i have 2 knock sensors attached to the block.  #1 inbetween 1 
> and 2 cylinders.  then #2 between 2 and 3!!!  i'm guessing this is incorrect 
> no matter the engine and either it gets one over on the left side, or a 
> second one to the right of the breather?  this is probably going to confused 
> the car if i leave it as is?
> 
> they had #2 sensor hooked up correctly to the harness.  but they hooked #1 up 
> to the ignition reference sensor from #4 spark plug, and they cut the harness 
> side of #1 knock sensor.  that damn car really did run great to me, it was 
> faster then than it is now, just a
> ...

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/259247e4-948a-40f8-9a99-a3bb576bde60%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/FF5E4525-F32F-4A67-99E9-D3AC5FD58BBD%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Struts & Springs

[Steven Arguello]

Excellent, this is what I had in mind, I thought all cars were like this from 
factory.
Thanks all.



> On Apr 25, 2016, at 7:39 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm pretty sure that from the factory, all four lower strut bolts are 
> identical. I recall that New Dimensions used to sell the special bolts which 
> provide the adjustabilty. They were sold in pairs, since most people were 
> just interested in the ability to set the camber to factory specs, or to add 
> a small amount of negative camber. I wanted more negative camber than just 
> one bolt provided, so I bought two pair, which allowed me to get a bit more 
> negative camber. I seem to recall that some VW dealer parts departments sold 
> the bolts as well under a factory part number. I think the intention was to 
> allow setting camber after collision repairs.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 25, 2016 16:23, "Jack Simon"  > wrote:
> The bolts and nuts that hold the strut to the wheel bearing housing are one 
> of two sizes, I believe the size of the shaft of the bolt is 11mm and 12mm, 
> the thinner one allowing for camber adjustment. Torque nuts with 19mm hex 
> head to 59 ft. lb. and torque the 18mm hex head to 70 ft. lb. Any VW dealer 
> with a decent parts department old timer (if there are any left!) can help 
> you out.  Both of them have a VW part numberJack 
> 
> On 25 Apr 2016, at 18:03, Holland Phillips wrote:
> 
> Bottom line is I would get 4 of the adjustable front camber bolts, and have 
> the car realigned after you install the bolts. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/D6F2216B-3023-4A7E-B508-9D59E8DC18C2%40gmail.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkEJxb0aMqKP1OdefkiV7M8oNSga864wythuWfDv9-Kkg%40mail.gmail.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/ADA6DED9-1839-4DFC-A343-025CDBBAA5D7%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Hatch struts

[Steven Arguello]

Scored a new pair of hatch struts, the instructions only say to install the 
same way the old ones were. I don’t trust the PO too much. What is the correct 
way, thick side up or down?
Thanks

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/94FCCE5E-949A-49A6-A087-A3A0D17D68FB%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bentley Online (most of it)

[Steven Arguello]

Not sure what the legality or even the karma is regarding this, but it’s a lot 
easier for me to go here rather than fire up my version.

http://vwts.ru/vw_doc/eva2/

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03D2A456-C38A-49E5-A036-CB51C2E9406A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] SparkPlug tool fail

[Steven Arguello]

I'm a big believer in dielectric grease, even on the ceramic part so the boot 
doesn't stick. It'll also prevent the tool from sticking. Stuck boots=failed 
wires=more $ spent
Also always anti seize on the threads. 
In the picture, there looks like a metal washer/cap attached to the rubber part 
of the stuck tool. Could that be what's seized and not just the rubber? It 
looks very tight on the plug. Are there different diameter ceramic stems for 
spark plugs? Maybe I'm seeing it wrong. 
Anyway, best of luck. 

On Nov 27, 2016, at 11:54 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

There are locking extensions as well.  I have one of those I purchased due to 
the sockets getting stuck on the plugs in my 16v.


> On Nov 27, 2016 11:47 AM, "Holland Phillips"  
> wrote:
> I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the 
> inside of the socket that belongs to the rubber piece. Thoroughly clean the 
> inside of the socket with brake cleaner first and let it dry. Put the socket 
> firmly on to the plug/rubber piece and let it cure for a while. 
> On the extension problem, the detent balls tend to weaken over time/use. I 
> used to replace my Craftsman extensions every few years, usually after 
> experiencing problems with removing plugs from my 16V. 
> There are spark plug sockets available from some of the specialty tool 
> manufacturers that work better than the ones that use the rubber inserts. I 
> had SK plug sockets which were better than Craftsman. 
> I just saw some magnetic plug sockets available on eBay, which might be worth 
> a try.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2016 08:19, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
>> Hey 16vers,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yesterday I spent some time on my 16V’s never ending journey to revival.  
>> With the help of a new local friend (who has four 16V Scirrocos) we 
>> reinstalled the restored main fuel pump and McGuyvered transfer pump.  Two 
>> nights ago I removed the spark plugs and poured a cap full of new engine oil 
>> down the plug holes so the engine would not restart dry when we finally 
>> tried to start it.  Unfortunately yesterday when finally reinstalling the 
>> spark plugs,  the rubber boot for the spark plug removal socket stayed on 
>> the plug and after 30 minutes of trying to remove it – we were defeated.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So close yet so far,  we were at the final two steps before trying to start 
>> the engine:  reinstall spark plugs and add fresh gasoline…
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Clearly the Craftman 5/8” (Part #43324)  spark plug removal tool is not of 
>> high quality.  I have snap-on 11/16” spark plug removal tool (S9727K) which 
>> seems of higher quality.   I will be ordering a snapon 5/8” spark plug tool 
>> and throwing my two other 5/8” plug sockets in the trash.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So now my question – any ideas on how to get the rubber piece out?   The 
>> spark plug tool won’t grab the plug to screw it out and won’t hold onto the 
>> rubber to pull it out.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am thinking glue might work but I am also afraid of getting the socket 
>> stuck down there – any tricks to get the socket to stick to the extension?   
>> Does anyone have an extension welded onto the socket to avoid the socket 
>> getting stuck down there?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Any ideas would be welcome.
>> 
>> Pictures of incident:  https://goo.gl/photos/AqU6SiPWRHewd3Np9
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Larry
>> 
>> 91 GTI 16V
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990675EC0C7BB763ADF3D3FC08B0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DqdHQ_eLabQoFx1-DdbDu7gjRHBX11GSN8rZ%3Dp%3DMMRsQ%40mail.gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 

[mk2-16v] Brake pedal feel- not so good

[Steven Arguello]

In the ’90’s I had a Volvo 740 piece of crap that I loved, mostly because of 
the brakes and the pedal feel. I’ve bled the brakes on the GTi so many times 
that the fluid is brand-new clear now. And it still feels a little spongy. I 
have it in my head that it’s due to the proportioning valve on the rear axle. I 
freed and cleaned it up, but I can’t really test if it’s working correctly. So 
I want to bypass it using female/ female couplers. It might or might not make 
the pedal feel better, but it should make it easier for the rears to lock up. 
I’ll fix that with a proportioning valve. 
And lastly I’d change out the hoses.
Any thoughts?

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/0DAEAD48-31AD-4CA0-A860-93FD2870E5BE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

[Steven Arguello]

This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if it's 
the right one. 

11587010532Fuel Pump Check Valve
171044Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet

On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:

Hey 16Vers,
 
Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for a 91 
GTI 16V?

Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.

While I am at it,  what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is obscured 
by the plastic housing?  A narrow adjustable wrench or something better?
 
Thanks,
 
Larry
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990197BA56D65427FE53356C0920%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/FC7E2104-66DE-4A38-B4F5-0CA5109A3CE1%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

[Steven Arguello]

Yeah, but it was yesterday. 
Sorry. 


On Jul 10, 2017, at 12:07 PM, jlagn...@massed.net wrote:

Still available?

From: "Steven Arguello" <stevenargue...@gmail.com>
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 12:13:04 PM
Subject: [mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

I have two tickets to this Sunday morning's, Signal Corps spectating, I can't 
make it. They're free for the taking. 
I offered them to the organizers to donate, but they never responded. 
They're fully transferable. So it's legit. 
http://www.climbtotheclouds.com/
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B75C8879-B1E1-47FC-A71C-A7DC2167B10A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1761883134.12340778.1499702831556.JavaMail.root%40massed.net.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9BAA40AC-A5C5-4EB5-AEB1-63016F67BAF9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

[Steven Arguello]

I have two tickets to this Sunday morning's, Signal Corps spectating, I can't 
make it. They're free for the taking. 
I offered them to the organizers to donate, but they never responded. 
They're fully transferable. So it's legit. 
http://www.climbtotheclouds.com/

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B75C8879-B1E1-47FC-A71C-A7DC2167B10A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] WTB working speedometer or odometer parts

[Steven Arguello]

I broke the red gear trying to fix the odometer for the 3rd time. Need the odo 
for an upcoming tsd rally.
Thanks,
Steve

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EED1143B-6BD2-4D35-8849-CAE43EBCFAFE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bad O2 sensor?

[Steven Arguello]

The other day I drove through a couple of inches of standing water and since 
then about 30 seconds to a minute after starting it’ll buck and idle really 
rough, have no power for about 30 seconds to a minute then it clears up and 
runs fine. 
When it’s idling rough, I disconnect the sensor and it clears up. 
I’m thinking the O2 heater shorted out. 
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor. 

The biggest deal is that it’s a PITA to change out. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/87776105-4185-427A-A518-492086609319%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] 1991 Volkswagen Golf Country Chrome SYNCRO 4WD - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

[Steven Arguello]

This caught my eye.

> https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-volkswagen-golf-country/6448021170.html
>  
> 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B60F692C-E9F2-45AB-AC4A-35A5C4E3E609%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.