[neonixie-l] Re: Urwerk SpaceTime Blade clock

[Tony Adams]

Hmmm

[image: WhatsApp Image 2024-04-08 at 17.26.44.jpeg]
On Sunday 7 April 2024 at 09:52:56 UTC+1 Robert wrote:

>
> https://www.ablogtowatch.com/new-release-urwerk-spacetime-blade-nixie-tube-clock/
>
>
> Rob
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] What is this tube ?

[Tony Adams]

6E2 'magic eye' tubes driven to produce a colon?. Very neat but power
hungry and short lived I'd expect.

On Sun, Feb 12, 2023 at 10:44 AM Benoit Tourret 
wrote:

> Ok ok...
> It doesn't seems to be a regular item...
>
> It must surely be Chinese, the lack of clues and evidence brings us there
> with force.
> Whatever the top of the tubes made me look towards Nec.
>
> Wait & See...
> Le jeudi 9 février 2023 à 22:37:06 UTC+1, Tidak Ada a écrit :
>
>> IO guess a VFD zero-indicator and a VFD level indicator….
>>
>>
>>
>> eric
>>
>>
>>
>> *Van:* neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] *Namens
>> *Audrey
>> *Verzonden:* donderdag 9 februari 2023 22:20
>> *Aan:* neoni...@googlegroups.com
>> *Onderwerp:* Re: [neonixie-l] What is this tube ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Probably chinese bargraph vfd tubes, they seem to be very rare. I've
>> attached some pictures of similar tubes.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 9, 2023, 3:48 PM Benoit Tourret  wrote:
>>
>> Hello, I wonder what are the two tubes between the digits ???[image:
>> Capture d’écran 2023-02-09 214402.png]
>>
>> the picture is from aliexpress, so there is no informations...
>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: mason jar numitrons

[Tony Adams]

I did play with these about 3 years ago, since then shorter filament strips 
have become available for half-segments.

(my first attempt at attching a photo here).

On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 15:04:25 UTC, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> Love this: https://youtu.be/JUFx7mmOjXw
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Upside-down nixies

[Tony Adams]

Each digit has a small 'tail' with a round pad for the spot weld. It might 
be possible to make a small batch with an alternative used to attach a wire 
to the 'top' of the digit, maybe very small thin eyelet terminals 
sandwiched in the stack under each digit.

On Tuesday, 14 November 2017 22:01:49 UTC, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Don't think it's as straightforward as that as the contacts for each 
> number are at the bottom of the digit...
>
> http://dalibor.farny.cz/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMG_0006.jpg
>
> On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 1:49 PM, Paul Andrews  > wrote:
>
>> Eh? Am I missing something here? Just mount them all upside down. In your 
>> head imagine: pull the numbers off their mounts, rotate the tube 180 
>> degrees, put the numbers back in their mounts. Now you have the pins at the 
>> top and all the numbers look just like they did before.
>>
>> On Nov 14, 2017, at 4:20 PM, Terry S  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Correct, just like the Russian 2, invert & flip to create a really bad 5. 
>> Or is it the other way around?
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 3:07:45 PM UTC-6, Pramanicin wrote:
>>>
>>> Would it? You can just flip it around(he says doing some painful 
>>> mental gymnastics...)
>>>
>>> On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 12:38 PM, gregebert  wrote:
>>>
 Gotcha!   '3' would look like a garbled 'E'  so it would also need to 
 be rebuilt.


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Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

5-600mA at 12V so around 6-7W allowing for PSU efficiency.

On Thursday, 21 July 2016 22:32:23 UTC+1, Tidak Ada wrote:
>
> Any idea about the power consumtion?
>
> For some years I got the idea to build a digital clock working with 
> relay’s.
>
> Calculating the power consumption let me decide to stop the project.
>
> A clock isn’t only a conversation piece It has to be a reliable time 
> indicator for 24/7
>
>  
>
> eric
>
>  
>
> *Van:* neoni...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> neoni...@googlegroups.com ] *Namens *Quixotic Nixotic
> *Verzonden:* donderdag 21 juli 2016 19:37
> *Aan:* neoni...@googlegroups.com 
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this
>
>  
>
>  
>
> On 21 Jul 2016, at 16:43, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>
>
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lasermad/time-flies-levitating-nixie-clock
>
>  
>
> I've seen one or two of my nixie clocks levitate, but only when my wife 
> has decided to clean my work table and has moved an unhoused example. It's 
> usually followed by some robust Anglo-Saxon. A small price to pay and it 
> does not cost £35,000.
>
>  
>
> John S
>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

Thanks for the comments everyone. A serious question though, would anyone 
consider it worth adding an IN-8-2 option for example? I'd expected anyone 
wanting a good looking nixie would have gone for Dalibor's tube but sadly 
it hasn't been as popular as I'd hoped.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

The only photoshopping was to touch up dust spots and colour balance, the 
height is real and you're welcome to come and look at one in operation.

On Thursday, 21 July 2016 19:39:12 UTC+1, gregebert wrote:
>
> Are any of you suspicious about the levitation height in the picture ? My 
> gut feeling is perhaps a few millimeters with a strong magnetic field. I 
> have a pair of circular magnetron magnets, and I can get roughly the height 
> pictured, but my magnet is much lighter than a nixie clock.
>
> One can only guess how much photoshop work is done for kickstarter 
> campaigns.
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Tony Adams]

If you can increase the anode voltages enough to get the dimmest displays 
up to an acceptable brightness you could cheat and PWM the brighter 
displays to balance the brightness in software. Depends if you can get an 
acceptably high voltage on the centre tube anodes/grid to counteract the 
12v you have on the filament.

On Wednesday, 11 November 2015 21:12:42 UTC, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>
> Hello guys, I made an IV -17 display panel. I made the filaments five in 
> series and put them under 12VDC to get a 2.4VDC filament voltage.
> The problem is, there is a voltage difference between each tube's filament 
> as the one closer to ground goes up to 3.2VDC and the one close to 12V gets 
> to 1.6 VDC.
> As you can see in the video, the ones on the outside are much brighter 
> (close to ground).  youtube video here. 
>
> So is there anything I can do to fix the problem here? I made PCB already, 
> so there is no way I can switch to AC now. Thanks for the help!
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Burrough B-7094, B-8091, ZM1200, ZM1206 in eBay auction!

[Tony Adams]

Big tubes are insane these days, $2995 wouldn't surprise me

On Mar 29, 5:02 pm, westdave westd...@aol.com wrote:
 Burrough B-7094, B-8091, ZM1200, ZM1206 in eBay auction!

 westdave thinks they will go to $2600 usd

 we will find out in five days
 what.am.i.bid? the prize is an ne51 for the closest bid

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[neonixie-l] Re: Sourcing Large Quantities of 5870s Nixies

[Tony Adams]

Have a look at the current ebay prices of IN-7 nixies for an
example...

I have a design that was completed late last year but have no
intention of announcing it until I've managed to buy enough tubes at a
reasonable price. One seller I approached for a quote increased their
ebay listing price of the tube I was interested in by 50% within 5
minutes of my enquiry.

It's a sellers market and will only get worse as supplies dry up.

On Mar 14, 3:04 am, Terry Kennedy terry+googleb...@tmk.com wrote:
 On Mar 13, 4:55 pm, Adam Jacobs jacobs.a...@gmail.com wrote:

  I think that (based on the current supply of nixies), if I was to design
  and build a new clock right now I would use IN-12's.

 Deciding on the desired tube, buying up available stocks, and _then_
 announcing the new clock is probably the best way to go. Look at what
 happened to the price of IV-4/IV-17 displays when the IV-17
 Smartsocket was announced - the price per tube jumped from $1.50-ish
 to $4-$8 per tube, and that's without an ongoing supply of Smartsocket
 boards to drive them.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Anybody want to build some nixie tubes?

[Tony Adams]

OK I'll jump in with a few points...

1, The price. From my dealings with this seller their idea of an offer
will be $100 less than asking. (OK maybe free shipping).

2. Extra costs. If I could afford to pay that and brought them to the
UK there would be an extra 20% tax to pay - the price is now over
$50k.

3. Quantities. I read it as enough of some parts to make 1,000 tubes
and of others for 10,000. No sign of cathodes so there may not be
enough ot assemble even 1 without extra materials.

4. Knowhow. How long will it take, even with data/manuals (In Russian,
probably added/changed as production improved and written by engineers
for their own use..) to make a tube you could guarantee for 10+
years of life?.

5. Legality. IN-18s have a Mercury pill, in this country at least I
don't see a chance of having their manufacture approved.

There's some interesting bits there but a very long way from a turnkey
nixie plant, which is what you'd need to justify the price though
if I had a spare million I'd be tempted ;).

Tony.


On Feb 20, 11:21 am, Nick n...@desmith.net wrote:
 Yup - including the shipping, its not attractive. Note that all that
 fragile glass packed into rather feeble cardboard boxes has to make it to
 you in whatever country you are in, without breakage.

 Face it - what are you actually buying here? Part of (certainly not all) of
 a factory line that made IN-18s. Big deal. That's not the problem - the
 expertise is - neon equipment, spot welders, glass tempering etc. is common
 and understood. The bags of ceramic beads etc. are useful, but not worth a
 huge amount. The special metal is what exactly? Are the
 wire-forming machines there? All the digits (and the decimal points)? The
 anode screen punches? Nowadays the digits etc. would probably be formed by
 an alternative technique - the Russians were expert at using what they had
 available to the best effect, but in the 30 or 40 years since this
 equipment was first commissioned, manufacturing techniques have moved on.

 Maybe USD 10,000 including shipping would be almost OK, but 40K?

 Certainly doesn't work for me :)

 Nick







 On Wednesday, 20 February 2013 10:35:57 UTC, Nixcited delighted wrote:
  So a best case scenario is you get 10,000 nixies at the end of the
  day. For all the heartache of making them you have paid $4.348 before
  adding the cost of the magic smoke, the compressor, hand press etc
  etc. If you only get the lowest estimate of 1,000 tubes, you will
  have paid $43.48 each, but probably double that.

  Does it work for you?

  John S

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Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.

[Tony Adams]

I can machine phenolic laminate but finding time to is the problem... if 
it's only a small quantity I could probably do it if you can find suitable 
pins.

http://www.lasermad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSCF5038-300x225.jpg

Tony.

On Tuesday, 15 January 2013 16:58:35 UTC, Tidak Ada wrote:

  Sounds nice BUT just for a hydrogen filled EZ10A/B  it is essential 
 the pins undergo as less as possible stress by mounting the pins LOOSLY and 
 movable in the insulator.
 I think a sandwich construction, like at those old pertinax sockets, will 
 fulfil more to that need.
 Making a socket, either from thick pertinax or an other thermo hardened 
 material (Bakelite or an phenolic resin) by use of a CNC driven tool will 
 make a perfect socket it you can find contacts that have enough difference 
 in diameter (a collar) to get hold.
 Who can help machining the parts ???
  
 eric
  --
  *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Quixotic Nixotic
 *Sent:* dinsdag 15 januari 2013 17:19
 *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.

  On 15 Jan 2013, at 15:50, mjrippe wrote:

 In case anyone has NOT heard of 3D printing, you can use it to make almost 
 any sort of plastic part.  One at a time, rather slowly.  But for those 
 unobtainable bits, it is perfect.  Some clever fellow has started making 
 their own tube sockets.  Kinda pointless for 7 pin miniatures, but would be 
 nice for EZ10A sockets!  Read about it here:
 https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/neonixie-l


 It seems a bit over time-consuming to me.

 I've made great IN 18 sockets by using the plastic middle of an old 
 adhesive roll glued around some pins to suit my pin receptacles. Melt some 
 polymorph in a cup of hot water from the kettle and squidge it into the 
 roll around the pins. When set, in about a minute, pull the pins out and 
 put your receptacles in - I used crimp ones from a D socket.

 If you need a mounting flange, that is easy too, just melt some more 
 polymorph, maybe roll it out flat, reheat one edge a bit and stick it to 
 the sides of your new socket. Trim to shape with an X-Acto knife or 
 scalpel. Polymorph will drill quite well.

 John S


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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

When - or if - I find enough tubes and build it this will be the first 
place I post a link to the photos ;)

A seperate question though - are there any of the original ticker displays 
left intact or were they all scrapped?.

Tony.


On Friday, 30 November 2012 20:12:17 UTC, kay486 wrote:

 You still havent told us what are you building. Im really curious. 32 
 tubes for one *thing*

 On Friday, 30 November 2012 19:01:31 UTC, Tony Adams wrote:

 They'll sell for an equally huge price, plus even huger (;)) taxes so 
 no use for our project. 

 We have about 22-23 up to now so still looking for more, another 10 
 should be enough to build the first, then we just need another 32 for 
 the second 

 Tony. 


 On Nov 30, 6:41 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote: 
  another huge auctionhttp://
 www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-Alphanumeric-Large-Vacuum-Tubes-B-7971-... 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote: 
  
   Hi all, 
   I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity 
   of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more 
   the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal. 
   I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would 
   consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or 
   gassy are no use - it needs to light up. 
   I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck 
   eventually I should be able to put a set together. 
  
   Tony. 



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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

They'll sell for an equally huge price, plus even huger (;)) taxes so
no use for our project.

We have about 22-23 up to now so still looking for more, another 10
should be enough to build the first, then we just need another 32 for
the second

Tony.


On Nov 30, 6:41 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote:
 another huge 
 auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-Alphanumeric-Large-Vacuum-Tubes-B-7971-...







 On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

  Hi all,
  I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
  of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
  the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
  I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
  consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
  gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
  I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
  eventually I should be able to put a set together.

  Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Currently I'm still looking for another 10 plus a couple of spares,
buying them at full price wouldn't be worth it and be a waste of good
tubes to just sit there displaying a static pattern.

Tony.

On Oct 8, 6:02 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Keep your eye on this (im not realted to the auction 
 anyhow)http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-20-LARGE-BURROUGHS-ULTRONIC-B-7971-NIX...







 On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

  Hi all,
  I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
  of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
  the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
  I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
  consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
  gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
  I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
  eventually I should be able to put a set together.

  Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: How necessary are sockets?

[Tony Adams]

I have seen used IN-12 and 15s that have been soldered directly into
the PCB and I've done the same myself for prototype or experimental
purposes but for long term use I wouldn't want to put that much strain
on the seals.
The socket pins removed from standard D connectors will fit most tubes
if you have the patience to solder them individually to the PCB.

On Sep 11, 3:56 pm, Sean sean4s...@gmail.com wrote:
 What are the options for mounting nixie tubes that have the short pins
 instead of solderable wires if you don't have the matching sockets?

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

I'd prefer not to say just yet, if it works as well as I hope then
it'll be public, otherwise It makes it easier to hide the embarassing
failure ;)

Tony.

On Sep 4, 10:39 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote:
 May i ask what exactly are you planing to do with them?







 On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 9:15:03 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

  Hi,
  I know they're part of an ongoing dispute so I'll just have to wait
  and see but wondered if any more might be out there as I'll still need
  to find quite a few to make up 32.
  64 probably wasn't going to happen but if you don't ask you never
  know, I'll be happy with 32 and if anyone else ever wants a set I'll
  just supply the parts and let them source their own tubes.
  I really don't want to use good tubes for this though as it'll
  encourage me to add more 'features' to make full use of them.

  Tony.

  On Sep 4, 7:54 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
   Tony,

   I may be able to help as I have at least 22 bad tubes.  Just need to
   decide on if I can get rid of them yet.

   Will start retesting shortly to find the ones that light up although I
  only
    have a few that lit.  Will update you.

   Might be hard to find a person that has 64 (good or bad) let alone
  willing
   to give them up.  Heh.

   Michail

   In a message dated 9/4/2012 7:48:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,

   sa...@amt-electronics.com writes:

   Hi  all,
   I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large  quantity
   of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the  more
   the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
   I'm mostly  interested in tubes with missing segments but would
   consider hard to start  as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
   gassy are no use - it needs  to light up.
   I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with  luck
   eventually I should be able to put a set  together.

   Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Hi all,
I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
eventually I should be able to put a set together.

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Ha :)

At atmospheric it's more a matter of breakdown voltage though any
remaining mercury vapour will lower it. A little too much UV I think
from those tubes, really prefer orange

Tony.

On Sep 4, 7:55 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 I was thinking of that as well... What is the voltage needed to cause
 ionization in air?

 -Adam

 On 9/4/2012 11:48 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:







  I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
  consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
  gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
  You tempt me to take one of my cracked ones and hook it up to
  several kilovolts - it'll light up.

  - John

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
I know they're part of an ongoing dispute so I'll just have to wait
and see but wondered if any more might be out there as I'll still need
to find quite a few to make up 32.
64 probably wasn't going to happen but if you don't ask you never
know, I'll be happy with 32 and if anyone else ever wants a set I'll
just supply the parts and let them source their own tubes.
I really don't want to use good tubes for this though as it'll
encourage me to add more 'features' to make full use of them.

Tony.


On Sep 4, 7:54 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
 Tony,

 I may be able to help as I have at least 22 bad tubes.  Just need to
 decide on if I can get rid of them yet.

 Will start retesting shortly to find the ones that light up although I only
  have a few that lit.  Will update you.

 Might be hard to find a person that has 64 (good or bad) let alone willing
 to give them up.  Heh.

 Michail

 In a message dated 9/4/2012 7:48:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,

 sa...@amt-electronics.com writes:

 Hi  all,
 I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large  quantity
 of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the  more
 the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
 I'm mostly  interested in tubes with missing segments but would
 consider hard to start  as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
 gassy are no use - it needs  to light up.
 I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with  luck
 eventually I should be able to put a set  together.

 Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV tubes

[Tony Adams]

I'd love to find a few IV-2 tubes, no point in describing them you'll
have to see them :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA4lsghN4HU

Others I know of not in that list:

IV-19 Top view Numitron
IV-28 Large single dot (VFD version of IN-28)

Anyone know of any more?.

Tony.


On Jul 6, 7:51 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi there, does somebody know what IV tubes are there? I would love to see a
 list with pictures or something like that.

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV tubes

[Tony Adams]

Sorry the IV29 is the large dot, the IV-28 is a flat multi digit 'VCR'
type display.

On Jul 6, 11:33 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:
 I'd love to find a few IV-2 tubes, no point in describing them you'll
 have to see them :)

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA4lsghN4HU

 Others I know of not in that list:

 IV-19 Top view Numitron
 IV-28 Large single dot (VFD version of IN-28)

 Anyone know of any more?.

 Tony.

 On Jul 6, 7:51 pm, kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com wrote:







  Hi there, does somebody know what IV tubes are there? I would love to see a
  list with pictures or something like that.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Shameless plug time - hope you all won't mind too much.

I've finally listed kit options and prices, there are only 7 complete
kits available just now and I'd prefer to sell them to the first to
show interest so that will probably be to members here - so if you're
still interested in buying one could you contact me directly and I can
work out what order they should go out in.

http://www.lasermad.com/?p=319

Tony.


On Jun 24, 2:28 am, Gene Segal wavefr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Very impressive!  Where can I get one?  =)
 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:Hi all,
 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something nixie-based.http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
 Tony.

 Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ... well, 
 you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe !?





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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

I'll try to reply to most of the pints in one post to prevent
cluttering the thread up, but first of all - you are all a bunch of
feature creeps! ;)

I did consider one large coil but couldn't see it being possible to
provide even coverage and avoid hotspots or overdriving the displays
if it wasn't fully loaded - it may be possible but I didn't explore
that.

Power efficiency, the loaded drivers deliver 70%+ of the input to the
display, the figures only look bad as unloaded they still use quite a
bit of power. Probably 10W could be saved by switching off the unused
squares but it adds to the complexity and would prevent another idea I
have from working.

Any kit will be exactly that, you'll be thrown a bunch of machined
paxolin discs and a roll of copper wire - reminds me of a clock case
'kit' I bought many years ago which consisted of some paper stencils
and 2 sheets of plywood. well it won't be that bad :).

As for modifications that would turn it into an electronic chess game
I've had the following ideas, along with a few hints offlist from
Dekatron42:
.
The base coils are currently driven in rows of eight, they're also fed
in rows of eight via 8x 2R2 fusible resistors. If I rearrange them to
be supplied in rows and driven in columns this should work:

The starting positions are known, or at least can be assumed.
The controller will need to keep a map of the piece positions and
track each movement.

When a piece is picked up or put down there is a change in current
through that row resistor, the controller can detect it then scan
through the columns to find out which square has changed. As all the
pieces are mapped it will know what was on that square and which
squares will be valid for it to reappear on.

When an increase is recorded across one of the resistors it can scan
again to see which square is now occupied. If it detects it's on a
valid square the game continues, if not it will stay in a loop waiting
for a legal move to be made or end the game depending on programming.

For the computer to make a move it will indicate it by only driving
the coil under the piece to be moved and the destination square.
As you know which moves are valid for that piece it will be easy to
find that square and the piece will light up. Again if it's not moved
to the correct square the controller can detect it and halt the game
until it is.

As all the pieces are mapped by the controller it doesn't need to
identify them and swapping them for another piece or attempting to
cheat will only halt the game or confuse the human player.

To make this work I'll need to change the current row/row arrangement
to row/column, add ADC lines from each resistor and add a 12v switch
to each row of 8 coils. It'll need a larger microcontroller and a few
spare pins will be needed to allow external programming. I really
don't want to end up bogged down with more modifications though so if
I do make these up as a kit I'd just supply the board with the above
mods, basic always-on software and a means to program it externally.
It's then up to the end user to do the rest.

- and chess piece Nixie tubes would be just incredible expecially if
they're made as plugin replacements.

Tony.


On Jun 22, 6:17 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Actually, I am just as well interested in the custom made chess Nixie
 tubes, Ron ;-)

 Jens







  Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit

  Sent from my iPhone

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[neonixie-l] Re: IN-23 (multisegment nixie) on ebay

[Tony Adams]

It does seem over the last couple of years many sellers have realised
they have us by the shorts as they control a limited supply.

Tony.

On 21 June, 19:11, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ahhh yes, they smell blood in the water...

 Just like the IN-18's; the cartel has fixed their prices even though nobody
 appears to be paying. Well, maybe Dieter.

 Regards, Jeff







 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 9:40:46 AM UTC-7, marcin wrote:

  Did any of you hear about IN-23 tubes? And there is somebody selling them:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-23-X-1pcs-23-NEW-NIXIE-RAREST-LIMITED-EDIT...that 
 the price quickly raised from 35USD per two to 48USD for each.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thank you :)

They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
multplier to produce around 180v.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
 you drive the tubes?

 Jens







  Hi all,

  Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
  something nixie-based.

  I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
  growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
  design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
  couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
  humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

  Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
  found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

  Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
  controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

  Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thanks everyone for the positive comments, I'm not very good at
promoting things - maybe one of the reasons why I'm always redesigning
rather than finishing them.

I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver
coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected
leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide
more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube
to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed.

Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due
to the amount of repetition in assembly.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:04 pm, Dalibor Farný dali...@farny.cz wrote:
 Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie
 project!

 Do You have some technical info on your site?

 Dalibor

 2012/6/21 kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com









  This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes without
  any risk?

  On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

  Hi all,

  Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
  something nixie-based.

  I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
  growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
  design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
  couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
  humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

  Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
  found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

  Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
  controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

  Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Hi,

Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Absolutely fantastic!

 This might actually get me to play chess again!

 Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?

 /Martin

 On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:







  Thank you :)

  They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
  secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
  multplier to produce around 180v.

  Tony.

  On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
  wrote:

   Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
   you drive the tubes?

   Jens

Hi all,

Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
something nixie-based.

I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
found here:

   http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

The driver circuits aren't that efficient though, I'd estimate the
nixies take about 10W and the board loses another 15W. If the edges
were made wider it would be possible to fit enough mh cells in for
maybe 2 hours or longer using Li.
As it stands though it can be fed from an external 12v battery, the
terminals are marked 'LT accumulator' though it's not very easy to see
in the videos.

Tony.

On Jun 22, 1:45 am, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:
 I think I would also try to let it run on rechargeable batteries and make
 it portable. I roughly estimated you need about 5W for all chess pieces
 which is not all that much. It only needs to operate for a few hours and
 when pieces disappear from the board, it will draw less power.

 Michel







 On Friday, June 22, 2012 10:32:14 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

  The chess timer idea did pop up at one point when it seemed it needed
  more software, along with the idea of an extra 6 pieces with numeric
  tubes that would be placed on the board to use it as a clock when it
  wasn't in use for chess - but I managed to resist...;)

  Tony.

  On Jun 22, 12:14 am, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:
   Not really, we just make him work harder :-)

   Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing
   steampunk chess game!

   Michel

   On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote:

Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-)

Tom

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[neonixie-l] Looking for a couple of IN-7s (UK)

[Tony Adams]

Hi all,

I'm working on a new design and would like a couple of IN7s to try out
- I have IN-15s and IN-19s but didn't think I would need any IN-7s.
Does anyone in the UK have a couple I could buy to try out?.

Thanks,
Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
Very good advice, I've had to do so in the past with a couple of other
sellers and have had no problems to date with ebay and paypal issuing
a refund.

The problem this time was I trusted the seller to sort it out. I know
better for next time and it's a shame I'll now have to be a bit more
suspicious when there is a problem, even with sellers I've trusted in
the past.

Dieter, the seller is polivoks-russia.

Tony.

On Apr 18, 3:48 am, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 Always use the ebay resolution center. Never let a claim lapse. I would
 take this as an $80 lesson and be glad that it wasn't far more money. :)
 If you let the claim lapse, you are telling ebay that you no longer have
 a dispute. I always start the resolution center case _immediately_
 whenever anything starts to go wrong. It is often good at lighting a
 fire under the seller, even in the best of circumstances. If they
 respond but they aren't solving it, then escalate it to ebay customer
 service. They _ALWAYS_ favor the buyer.

 -Adam

 On 4/17/2012 6:13 PM, Tony Adams wrote:







  Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
  from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
  arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
  asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
  after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
  bought directly.
  I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
  traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
  nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
  been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
  I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
  effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.

  Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
  that for less than $80?..

  On Apr 9, 9:37 am, Dieter Waechteri...@nocrotec.com  wrote:
  Attention Attention!!!

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[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[Tony Adams]

Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
bought directly.
I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.

Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
that for less than $80?..

On Apr 9, 9:37 am, Dieter Waechter i...@nocrotec.com wrote:
 Attention Attention!!!


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[neonixie-l] Re: Any interest in non-working IN-18's?

[Tony Adams]

I would be interested in them depending on the price but suspect that
postage and taxes to the UK would make it uneconomical.

Tony.

On Mar 6, 7:36 am, Terry Kennedy terry+googleb...@tmk.com wrote:
 I have qty 13 of non-working (no illumination on any digits at all,
 seals appear intact) IN-18 Nixies.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Self Plug : B7971 on ebay

[Tony Adams]

Two for a pound - where's my time machine?.

Those things are literally going to be worth their weight in gold
soon.

On Feb 13, 3:16 pm, Mefistofelix markpeters...@btinternet.com wrote:
 Lney prices !   - I'm out !

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Self Plug : B7971 on ebay

[Tony Adams]

Unfortunately I am in the UK and looking for at least another two
7971s but can't afford them just now.

B.Bamber - I remember buying surplus junk from them back in the early
80s I think, but back then nobody wanted nixies. Another surplus
seller had bags of miniature nixies 10 or 15 for £1, at least I did
buy a couple of those just in case they came in handy one day

On Feb 12, 9:13 pm, Alex Grant ajlgr...@gmail.com wrote:
 A shameless bit of self publicity: I have been promising a work
 college I would sell these for him for ages - bit of a shame really as
 I wouldn't mind them myself but I made the rookie mistake of telling
 him they were worth a reasonable sum... If you are after some 7971s in
 the UK, check out item # 220953104146 on ebay.

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[neonixie-l] Re: clock kits

[Tony Adams]

I prefer using Dichloromethane, it may be easier to find or cause less
difficult questions.

Tony.

On Jan 12, 9:27 pm, Adam Jacobs a...@jacobs.us wrote:
 Wow, that's a great tip. Thanks.

 Now, I wonder if there is any way for a normal citizen in the US to
 obtain chloroform... and if I do, will the department of homeland
 security kick my door in?

 -Adam

 On 1/12/2012 1:25 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:







  If you 'glue' the plexiglass with a solution  of plexi sawdust in
  chloroform, you can make weldings almost invisible.
  A bit help with pure chloroform in a syringe with a fine needle, makes
  it even finer (Carefull  your hand wil warm and evaporate the
  chloroform so the pressure in the syringe rises and will expel the
  fluid !! ) .
  eric
  
  *From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
  [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Adam Jacobs
  *Sent:* donderdag 12 januari 2012 19:01
  *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
  *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] clock kits

  That is a nicely executed acrylic box case, Nick. Acrylic boxes are my
  goto cheap case of choice (because I live near Tap Plastics and can
  have one made for less than $5). They are more transparent than glass,
  so any adhesive becomes visible. Mine are much less clean than
  Nick's.   (.. and yes, I know about your famous aversion to box cases,
  Mike. :D )

  -Adam

  On 1/12/2012 9:19 AM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
  The case for the IN-18 clock on his website came from me, so if
  you're interested then PM me...I'm getting a few more made and other
  similar cases for his IN8/IN-14/IN16 clocks

  On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 9:12 AM, micha...@aol.com
  mailto:micha...@aol.com wrote:

      I have purchased about 20 kits from Pete.
      Had issues with bouncing (button press); however, he was on top
      of it with sending new controllers.
      So, he stands by his items.
      PS.  Damn, I didn't know he had cases available.  I need to get a
      few now.  :)
      Michail
      In a message dated 1/12/2012 9:08:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
      nickst...@gmail.com mailto:nickst...@gmail.com writes:

          Check outwww.pvelectronics.co.uk
          http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/ for kits that can include
          cases. I've built a few of them and they're very good.

          Nick

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 Explorer boards and FLW/Geeklok instruction request

[Tony Adams]

I have the Geekklok PDF (v2.0, 28 Aug 2003) if that's any use. Found
it a couple of years ago, can't remember where now. It's mostly of use
for the fonts list, it can even display the time in Klingon :).

Tony.

On Dec 9, 12:29 am, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Latest news on the IV-17 explorer boards and Smartocket pics is 
 herehttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/smartsockets/message/797

 I am also seeking to find copies of original Zetalink documentation
 for the FLW and Geeklok by Ray Weisling. (I've tried the internet
 archive but they aren't easy to find)

 Cheers !

 Chris Barron

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[neonixie-l] Re: Yet more 7441, 74141 questions

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
They certainly weren't designed to run like that, they only produce an
output as they don't have extra logic to prevent it. It was left up to
the design engineer using them to make sure it would only be fed BCD.

As for alternatives, for my latest design I eventually went for 4028s
and SN75468s. It wouldn't be so bad if there was even a suitable
transistor array with 10 or 11 outputs.

Tony.


On Nov 23, 9:33 pm, chuck richards chuc...@all2easy.net wrote:
 Thank you all for those suggestions and the experiment to
 observe what actually happens when Vcc is disconnected
 from a 7441/74141 driver ic.  I will be trying all of those
 very soon here.

 Here is another curious aside that goes along with the
 7441 questions.   The 7441 does not blank hex codes A through F,
 as the 74141 does.

 I got to experimenting with an old 7441 in this mode.
 I had one connected to a binary counter that was counting
 single seconds.  The 7441 then was operating the nixie tube
 normally for digits 0 through 9, and then it also was displaying
 the codes A through F.

 Here's what my old 7441s do for those codes:

 1010  lights 2 and 8
 1011  lights 3 and 9
 1100  lights 4 and 8
 1101  lights 5 and 9
 1110  lights 6 and 8
   lights 7 and 9

 It works great except that it appears to maybe exceed the
 total package dissipation of the chip, because after a while,
 one digit inevitably sticks on after running in this mode.

 So, even though the chip is built this way that it
 turns on two outputs simultaneously for codes greater than 9,
 it appears that it eventually destroys the ic.

 My guess is that having two outputs on at the same time
 is a bit more than the ic can handle.

 Anyone else know anything about this, or have any insight
 or opinions about it?

 Thanks, Chuck











  Original Message 
 From: threeneur...@yahoo.com
 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
 Subject: RE: [POSSIBLE SPAM]  [neonixie-l] Re: Yet more 7441, 74141
 questions
 Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:58:38 -0800 (PST)

  the 7441/74141 having some path that would try to
  draw excessive current from the inputs when Vcc is
  disconnected.

  Is this a good idea to try, or is it a recipe for
  trashing some HC160 counters?

 Its possible. The only way to really find out, is to run an
 experiment. Get one of your 74141s, and tie the gnd, and leave Vcc
 open. Connect a 470 ohm resistors to each input. Connect the other
 side of those resistors to its own DIP switch. A 4 switch DIP switch
 is needed. Tie the other side of the DIP switches to +5V. Gnd the
 negative side of your 5V source. Try all 16 input combinations, and
 see if there's a voltage drop across any of those resistors.

 The inputs of old TTL was usually the emitter of an NPN transistor,
 so
 it would be reverse biased if you tried your scheme. Ideally, it
 shouldn't draw any current. But it may, if (1) 5V exceeds its
 reverse
 breakdown rating; doubtful, or (2) there is some protection circuit,
 or phantom substrate structure. In old TTL, there usually wasn't any
 protection circuits, but a phantom diode is possible. Only way to
 find
 out, is by experiment.

 If the input impedance is still high with no power, then your good
 to
 go. However, if excess current is drawn. Excessive, being more than
 the HC160s are rated for, or higher than you want to supply,
 whichever
 is less, then you got work to do. A possible solution (if needed) is
 to insert a schottky diode in series in each input path. Anodes
 toward
 the counter, cathodes towards the 74141s. put 10K pull-up resistors
 on
 each 74141 input. Tie the power side of those pull-ups to the VCC
 pin
 of its nearest 74141. This is a pseudo-open-collector arrangement.
 Real TTL tended to have a soft pull-up. The 10K pull-ups will tend
 to
 bring up into a safe Logic-1, when the circuit is powered. The
 diodes
 will only allow the counters to sink the inputs to 0. When the
 counters output a 1, the diode is reversed, and off. The pull-up
 will
 bring it to a logic 1. I suggest small signal schottky diodes,
 because
 they have smaller forward voltage drops than your jelly-bean 1N914.
 A
 logic 0 must be 0.8V or less. This may be iffy if a common silicon
 diode is used. A BAT46 will have a much lower forward drop. Probably
 ~0.3V in this use.

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 based HV supply question

[Tony Adams]

A quick search at Farnell lists the cheapest 34063 at 41p for one and
the cheapest 555 at 36p. I just don't get why 555 based supplies are
so popular.

On Nov 21, 10:56 pm, MrNixie (UK) laurence.wilk...@dsl.pipex.com
wrote:
 No doubt these 555 power supplies can work, but the efficiency can be
 poor, and there is no current overload protection. If you can live
 with the extra wasted power (means a heat sink, for your numbers) and
 can trust yourself never to short the power supply out, then these
 circuits will deliver. But you will never beat a custom SMPS IC with a
 generic 30 year old one IMHO.

 On Nov 21, 5:50 pm, chuck richards chuc...@all2easy.net wrote:







  All of the recent discussion about the little boost converter
  HV supply is getting me interested in trying the idea.

  I looked around on the web and came across a few schematics
  for it.  It uses a 555 timer ic as the controller, and I
  see that various frequencies are used.   Looks like
  rounding up the FET, the diode, and the inductor would
  be no big deal.

  But, are these things really any good?  Will one of them
  hold decent regulation when running (6) nixies?

  My estimated total current at 170 volts DC would
  be about 2.2 mA per tube.   That would be about 13.2 mA
  total.  Is it worth experimenting with?

  I ask, because it seems quite tough to beat John Taylor's
  model 1363 and 1364 power supplies.  I have one of his 1364
  supplies here, and it's really slick!

  Thanks.    Chuck Richards

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[neonixie-l] Re: The difference between IV4 and IV17 vfd tubes

[Tony Adams]

It seems an extreme way of expanding your product line though how
these things were arranged when the factory was probably just told to
make xx000's a year I don't know.

Would have been a lot more useful if they'd used the materials to make
bucketloads if IV-2s though, I have yet to find even one.

Tony.

On Nov 21, 8:51 am, fixitsan chefin...@gmail.com wrote:
  The 1000 hours lifetime is hopefully a misprint, there shouldn't be
  that much difference in the build to shorten it by 9000 hours and why
  continue to build a vastly inferior tube when you have a functionally
  identical and improved design available?.
  Tony.

 That is an excellent point Tony.
 The cost to build the IV17 must be about the same as the IV4, so pin
 compatibility means you would naturally choose the better tube for the
 same price, and the low demand for the IV4 would put them out of
 production, if there were major difference between them (and the cost
 was the same)

 I had an amusing thought, that the IV4 and the IV17 both continued to
 be made just to make the factory appear to have a broader product
 range.
 Could there be a benefit to showing you had a wider range of products
 in preference to producing higher volumes of a smaller range?

 Chris

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working

[Tony Adams]

First of all I'd go back to using a 10-15 ohm resistor in series with
the 12v supply, it will still work and produce 180-200v out for test
purposes.

Don't bother putting another mosfet in just yet, you need to fid out
why it's being fried first.

Probably either the mark/space ratio is too long or it's being driven
on permanently. What's the DC voltage on pin 3?.

You could try connecting one pin of a small cap, maybe .1u to pin 3
and connecting your meter probe to the other pin, if it's oscillating
you should get a reading therough the capacitor. Or try a cheap AM
radio next to it, you may pick up harmonics.

I would check around the feedback circuit and Q2, beyond that you
really need a scope to see what the gate drive looks like. It could be
very long rise/fall times though if they're failing almost instantly
it's probably just the 555 output is stuck high.

Tony.

On Nov 18, 11:31 pm, Imbanon imba.a...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just tested my FETs. I have 2 new in working order, the other 3 are as
 good as a broken nixie. Now I'm afraid of using them, they are my last
 x)

 I can't test the inductors, but they should be 100uH, 1watt max. I
 can't test them, nor do they have any markings on them. Just plain
 black cover.
 The diodes are UF4004. I suppose they should work..

 Can I use some other inductor, like 220uH?
 Also, how do I check if my 555 is oscillating without an oscilloscope?

 Thanks!

 On Nov 18, 10:29 pm, Quixotic Nixotic nixot...@blueyonder.co.uk
 wrote:







  I've made up dozens of these supplies in all kinds of layout
  configurations and have found them to be bomb-proof. In fact I have
  never had a failure yet, they work every time. The circuit will work
  without the snubber R6/C3.

  There must be some simple answer to your problem. It seems to me as
  if the 555 might not be doing any switching, or doing it incorrectly.
  Or as you say the FET is not all it's cracked up to be, or the diode
  is not fast enough. Check the value and rating of your inductor.

  The FET should not get too hot. Usually it will run cool enough for
  you to hold it.

  John S

  On 18 Nov 2011, at 19:43, Imbanon wrote:

   Hi all.

   Yeah, another thread about this supply..http://www.ledsales.com.au/
   kits/nixie_supply.pdf
   I know I could and should have made that Maxim power supply, but I
   didn't. So now I'm stuck fixing this with loads of spare parts I've
   got... except for the FETs..

   Anyways, the supply isn't working. The first one I made worked just
   fine for 15 minutes, powering 6 IN-14 at 170 volts (multiplexed). Then
   I set it to 200 volts (to get RMS of 2mA), which worked for 5 minutes,
   and then smoked and failed.
   I made another on a quick PCB, which just smoked immediately when I
   switched it on. The same thing happened to the newest, breadboarded
   one.
   The MOSFET seems to overheat instantly and smoke out. Having nothing
   to lose (except the molten hole in the breadboard), I left it powered,
   to see the diode smoking next. Aparently, its still in working order
   (so says the multimeter).
   Heat sinking FET only makes it last longer in not working state before
   it smokes.

   I tried replacing inductors, 555s, diodes, transistors..
   What the F**K do I do people? Losing my head here!

   And yeah, I'm powering it at 12 volts, tried 5. Output is always 3-6
   volts.

   Thank you for any help provided!
   Imbanon

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  JS Design
  54 Brambledown Road
  Wallington
  Surrey
  SM6 0TF

  T+F +44 (0)20 8773 4779www.jsdesign.co.uk

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working

[Tony Adams]

I just noticed this bit: 'I left it powered, to see the diode smoking
next.'

If the mosfet was fried before then, the diode should just have been
sitting there with nothing to do. I assume it's not connected to the
rest of the clock?.

Power it up with a 15R series resistor, no mosfet and come back with
some voltages.

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: WAY way off topic but they light up...

[Tony Adams]

On Nov 14, 8:27 pm, orange_glow_fan grandpacorv...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi, Found this on youtube and can NOT figure out how it works.
 Included is TWO links to slightly differing versions..

 Help..

 http://wn.com/Light_Bulb_Trick

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGm5_uo5cHQfeature=related

 Thanks,

 Kerry

My guess would be a microcontroller which switches to the next
sequence when all 4 switches are off. As long as you memorise what
order it changes them in it'll work.

Then I saw this one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw9MGa7iQq4

Tony.

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