[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthawkLvr]

ARRGGG BEYOND FRUSTRATED

Yesterday, my son and I tried to push start the bike... It didn't work to
well, but we did actually get it started...by pushing the starter button!
Put new gas in...got it started...and my son rode it up and down the street
till it died again! It actually turned over a couple of times and then
suddenly... "click-click"...
FRUSTRATED, we pushed back into the driveway and managed to get a couple of
turn overs but it didn't start up...

So, today I went out to try again...again it turned over a few
times...then...
CLUNK-CLUNK as opposed to click-click... Turns over a couple more times...
CLUNK-CLUNK...rock the bike a bit...turns over again a few times...then ...
" CLUNK grind CLUNK click...click-click...rocked a few times...put in
first...click-click... Back to neutral...click-click... click-click... and
THAT is where we are at...again!!!

Click-click... Click-click... I am really starting to hate that
sound...click-click!

??? ??? ???



On Wednesday, July 6, 2016, Javier Garcia  wrote:

> I just read the entire thread and maybe you should too to retrace your
> steps. Things you should try if you haven't:
>
> - Check the voltage of your battery with the switch in the off position,
> then in the on position, then while hitting the starter button. Is the
> voltage consistent or is it dropping drastically at any of these points?
>
> - Before getting the starter out of the bike, I will suggest taking
> Glenn's advice and connecting jumper cables from a car battery (or even the
> battery of the bike once it is out) directly to the starter. If it goes
> fine it means the starter engine is good and you should worry about
> something else.
>
> - To test the solenoid, check the voltage on the battery side of the
> solenoid, it should be the same as the voltage of the battery. Then check
> the voltage when you hit the start button. There shouldn't be any drastic
> drop in the voltage there neither (at least no below ~10 volts according to
> some pages on internet).
>
> Javier.
>
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 4:20 PM, NghthawkLvr  > wrote:
>
>> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside,
>>
>> Is 'the disk inside' inside the starter motor?
>>
>> I ask because before I had my accident I was having a problem with the
>> bike starting...
>> I would press the starter switch, and would get a clunk-ing sound...like
>> two gears getting stuck...after a couple of times, I found that if I rocked
>> the bike forward and backwards a couple of times until something in the
>> engine literally 'clicked', the starter motor would turn over and the bike
>> would start.
>>
>> So far as an update, I've tried everything here and gotten nowhere!
>> ...so...
>> Battery -> Solenoid -> Starter
>> Which could it be?
>> I tried to get the starter off today but didn't get too far...
>> Most of my tools we're stolen back in December and those two bolts are in
>> there pretty tight...simple tools I currently have just not strong enough...
>> So I'll try again tomorrow...until then...any other suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks
>> ~NHL~
>> On Jul 2, 2016 12:15, "Johnny Miller" > > wrote:
>>
>>> This could be the heart of the matter: the solenoid makes the connection
>>> between the battery and the starter motor. The click is the solenoid
>>> pushing the disk that makes the direct connection. As EGrider suggests, try
>>> jumping directly to the starter motor connections. If the starter motor
>>> turns, then you know it's probably the electrical connection inside the
>>> solenoid.
>>>
>>> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside, so the wear is
>>> spread out over time. If it happens to hit a good spot, the connection is
>>> made and the start happens. Next attempt might be on a bad section, so all
>>> you get is the click-click.
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 4:24:48 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:

 You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that
 wouldn't start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive
 and ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the
 starter was good.

 The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had
 a parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and
 the problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably
 working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the
 engine over.

 If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and
 starter motor, as you already suspect.

>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Javier Garcia]

I just read the entire thread and maybe you should too to retrace your
steps. Things you should try if you haven't:

- Check the voltage of your battery with the switch in the off position,
then in the on position, then while hitting the starter button. Is the
voltage consistent or is it dropping drastically at any of these points?

- Before getting the starter out of the bike, I will suggest taking Glenn's
advice and connecting jumper cables from a car battery (or even the battery
of the bike once it is out) directly to the starter. If it goes fine it
means the starter engine is good and you should worry about something else.

- To test the solenoid, check the voltage on the battery side of the
solenoid, it should be the same as the voltage of the battery. Then check
the voltage when you hit the start button. There shouldn't be any drastic
drop in the voltage there neither (at least no below ~10 volts according to
some pages on internet).

Javier.

On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 4:20 PM, NghthawkLvr  wrote:

> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside,
>
> Is 'the disk inside' inside the starter motor?
>
> I ask because before I had my accident I was having a problem with the
> bike starting...
> I would press the starter switch, and would get a clunk-ing sound...like
> two gears getting stuck...after a couple of times, I found that if I rocked
> the bike forward and backwards a couple of times until something in the
> engine literally 'clicked', the starter motor would turn over and the bike
> would start.
>
> So far as an update, I've tried everything here and gotten nowhere!
> ...so...
> Battery -> Solenoid -> Starter
> Which could it be?
> I tried to get the starter off today but didn't get too far...
> Most of my tools we're stolen back in December and those two bolts are in
> there pretty tight...simple tools I currently have just not strong enough...
> So I'll try again tomorrow...until then...any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> ~NHL~
> On Jul 2, 2016 12:15, "Johnny Miller"  wrote:
>
>> This could be the heart of the matter: the solenoid makes the connection
>> between the battery and the starter motor. The click is the solenoid
>> pushing the disk that makes the direct connection. As EGrider suggests, try
>> jumping directly to the starter motor connections. If the starter motor
>> turns, then you know it's probably the electrical connection inside the
>> solenoid.
>>
>> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside, so the wear is
>> spread out over time. If it happens to hit a good spot, the connection is
>> made and the start happens. Next attempt might be on a bad section, so all
>> you get is the click-click.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 4:24:48 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:
>>>
>>> You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that wouldn't
>>> start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive and
>>> ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the starter
>>> was good.
>>>
>>> The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had
>>> a parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and
>>> the problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably
>>> working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the
>>> engine over.
>>>
>>> If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and
>>> starter motor, as you already suspect.
>>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Kyle Munz]

The starter motor is pretty easy to test and rebuild, once you get it off
the bike. I took pics when I did mine: http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=517


-Kyle

On Wed, Jul 6, 2016 at 3:20 PM, NghthawkLvr  wrote:

> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside,
>
> Is 'the disk inside' inside the starter motor?
>
> I ask because before I had my accident I was having a problem with the
> bike starting...
> I would press the starter switch, and would get a clunk-ing sound...like
> two gears getting stuck...after a couple of times, I found that if I rocked
> the bike forward and backwards a couple of times until something in the
> engine literally 'clicked', the starter motor would turn over and the bike
> would start.
>
> So far as an update, I've tried everything here and gotten nowhere!
> ...so...
> Battery -> Solenoid -> Starter
> Which could it be?
> I tried to get the starter off today but didn't get too far...
> Most of my tools we're stolen back in December and those two bolts are in
> there pretty tight...simple tools I currently have just not strong enough...
> So I'll try again tomorrow...until then...any other suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> ~NHL~
> On Jul 2, 2016 12:15, "Johnny Miller"  wrote:
>
>> This could be the heart of the matter: the solenoid makes the connection
>> between the battery and the starter motor. The click is the solenoid
>> pushing the disk that makes the direct connection. As EGrider suggests, try
>> jumping directly to the starter motor connections. If the starter motor
>> turns, then you know it's probably the electrical connection inside the
>> solenoid.
>>
>> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside, so the wear is
>> spread out over time. If it happens to hit a good spot, the connection is
>> made and the start happens. Next attempt might be on a bad section, so all
>> you get is the click-click.
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 4:24:48 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:
>>>
>>> You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that wouldn't
>>> start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive and
>>> ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the starter
>>> was good.
>>>
>>> The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had
>>> a parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and
>>> the problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably
>>> working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the
>>> engine over.
>>>
>>> If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and
>>> starter motor, as you already suspect.
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthawkLvr]

When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside,

Is 'the disk inside' inside the starter motor?

I ask because before I had my accident I was having a problem with the bike
starting...
I would press the starter switch, and would get a clunk-ing sound...like
two gears getting stuck...after a couple of times, I found that if I rocked
the bike forward and backwards a couple of times until something in the
engine literally 'clicked', the starter motor would turn over and the bike
would start.

So far as an update, I've tried everything here and gotten nowhere!
...so...
Battery -> Solenoid -> Starter
Which could it be?
I tried to get the starter off today but didn't get too far...
Most of my tools we're stolen back in December and those two bolts are in
there pretty tight...simple tools I currently have just not strong enough...
So I'll try again tomorrow...until then...any other suggestions?

Thanks
~NHL~
On Jul 2, 2016 12:15, "Johnny Miller"  wrote:

> This could be the heart of the matter: the solenoid makes the connection
> between the battery and the starter motor. The click is the solenoid
> pushing the disk that makes the direct connection. As EGrider suggests, try
> jumping directly to the starter motor connections. If the starter motor
> turns, then you know it's probably the electrical connection inside the
> solenoid.
>
> When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside, so the wear is
> spread out over time. If it happens to hit a good spot, the connection is
> made and the start happens. Next attempt might be on a bad section, so all
> you get is the click-click.
>
> Good luck!
>
>
> On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 4:24:48 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:
>>
>> You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that wouldn't
>> start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive and
>> ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the starter
>> was good.
>>
>> The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had a
>> parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and the
>> problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably
>> working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the
>> engine over.
>>
>> If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and
>> starter motor, as you already suspect.
>>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Johnny Miller]

This could be the heart of the matter: the solenoid makes the connection 
between the battery and the starter motor. The click is the solenoid 
pushing the disk that makes the direct connection. As EGrider suggests, try 
jumping directly to the starter motor connections. If the starter motor 
turns, then you know it's probably the electrical connection inside the 
solenoid.

When the solenoid actuates, it rotates the disk inside, so the wear is 
spread out over time. If it happens to hit a good spot, the connection is 
made and the start happens. Next attempt might be on a bad section, so all 
you get is the click-click.

Good luck!


On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 4:24:48 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:
>
> You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that wouldn't 
> start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive and 
> ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the starter 
> was good. 
>
> The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had a 
> parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and the 
> problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably 
> working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the 
> engine over.
>
> If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and 
> starter motor, as you already suspect.
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Dave duChêne]

blue lock tite, don't use red


On 25 June 2016 at 16:41, NghthawkLvr <nghthwk...@gmail.com> wrote:

> IS THIS THE CULPRIT?
>
> The screw on the starter motor has two nuts...a silver and gold nut... the
> gold but which connects the screw to to the motor keeps coming loose...no
> matter how much I tighten it...after a few attempts to start I go back to
> click-click...click-click...
> On Jun 23, 2016 06:04, "Jeremy" <jman2...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Check all the connections as stated.  Could also jump it with a car
>> battery and jumpers.  If using a vehicle make sure you do not start the
>> vehicle.  I repeat key OFF engine not running in the vehicle.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:40 PM, NghthwkLvr (NL) <nghthwk...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
>>
>> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>
>> Working on cleaning the starter now...
>>
>>
>> -NghtHwkLvr
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your
>>> positive
>>>
>>> -Original Message-----
>>> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com]
>>> On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
>>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>>>
>>> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200
>>> CCAs
>>>
>>> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am
>>> going to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/-
>>> wiresassuming that is the best way, right?
>>>
>>> -Nghthwklvr
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO
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>>> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the
>>> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
>>> agent responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient, you
>>> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or
>>> copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received
>>> this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail
>>> or telephone, and delete the original message immediately. Thank you.
>>>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[EGrider]

You may have already done this, but once when I had a bike that wouldn't 
start I used jumper cables from a battery directly to the positive and 
ground on the starter motor. The bike turned over, so I knew the starter 
was good. 

The next suspect was therefore the starter solenoid. Fortunately, I had a 
parts bike, so I swapped out the starter solenoid. The bike fired, and the 
problem was fixed. If your solenoid is clicking, however, it's probably 
working. See if jumper cables to the starter motor get it to turn the 
engine over.

If it turns over, it might be the connection between the solenoid and 
starter motor, as you already suspect.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Kyle Munz]

Maybe try a dab of locktite?

On Jun 25, 2016 2:41 PM, "NghthawkLvr" <nghthwk...@gmail.com> wrote:

> IS THIS THE CULPRIT?
>
> The screw on the starter motor has two nuts...a silver and gold nut... the
> gold but which connects the screw to to the motor keeps coming loose...no
> matter how much I tighten it...after a few attempts to start I go back to
> click-click...click-click...
> On Jun 23, 2016 06:04, "Jeremy" <jman2...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Check all the connections as stated.  Could also jump it with a car
>> battery and jumpers.  If using a vehicle make sure you do not start the
>> vehicle.  I repeat key OFF engine not running in the vehicle.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:40 PM, NghthwkLvr (NL) <nghthwk...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
>>
>> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>>
>> Working on cleaning the starter now...
>>
>>
>> -NghtHwkLvr
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your
>>> positive
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com]
>>> On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
>>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>>>
>>> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200
>>> CCAs
>>>
>>> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am
>>> going to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/-
>>> wiresassuming that is the best way, right?
>>>
>>> -Nghthwklvr
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthaw...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO
>>> WHICH IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED,
>>> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the
>>> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthawkLvr]

IS THIS THE CULPRIT?

The screw on the starter motor has two nuts...a silver and gold nut... the
gold but which connects the screw to to the motor keeps coming loose...no
matter how much I tighten it...after a few attempts to start I go back to
click-click...click-click...
On Jun 23, 2016 06:04, "Jeremy" <jman2...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Check all the connections as stated.  Could also jump it with a car
> battery and jumpers.  If using a vehicle make sure you do not start the
> vehicle.  I repeat key OFF engine not running in the vehicle.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:40 PM, NghthwkLvr (NL) <nghthwk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
> Working on cleaning the starter now...
>
>
> -NghtHwkLvr
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
>>
>> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>>
>> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200
>> CCAs
>>
>> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am
>> going to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/-
>> wiresassuming that is the best way, right?
>>
>> -Nghthwklvr
>>
>> --
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Jeremy]

Check all the connections as stated.  Could also jump it with a car battery and 
jumpers.  If using a vehicle make sure you do not start the vehicle.  I repeat 
key OFF engine not running in the vehicle.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:40 PM, NghthwkLvr (NL) <nghthwk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
> 
> Thoughts? Suggestions? 
> 
> Working on cleaning the starter now...
> 
> 
> -NghtHwkLvr
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
>> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive 
>> 
>> -Original Message- 
>> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com] On 
>> Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL) 
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM 
>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics... 
>> 
>> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 
>> CCAs 
>> 
>> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am going 
>> to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- wiresassuming 
>> that is the best way, right? 
>> 
>> -Nghthwklvr 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 
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>> 
>>  
>> 
>> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO 
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>> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or 
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> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Javier Garcia]

You need to measure the voltage in your battery. I had a battery recently
that will charge and show good voltage until I pressed the star button, the
voltage will immediately drop. Your voltage should be ~12.6V for a good
start.

On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 11:33 PM, James O'Gorman <aspor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> “click click” means that things are trying to work. keep the battery
> charging for a while and try again. verify that the cells in the battery
> are filled up properly.
>
> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Richard Potter <rpot...@anaheim.net> wrote:
>
> Ck your ground cable where it bolts to the engine / frame
> Take it off and clean it
> Ck for voltage at the solenoid
> One side will be hot all the time the other will be hot when cranking
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [
> mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> <nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com>] *On Behalf Of *NghthwkLvr (NL)
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:40 PM
> *To:* Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>
>
> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
>
> Thoughts? Suggestions?
>
> Working on cleaning the starter now...
>
>
> -NghtHwkLvr
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive
>
> -Original Message-
> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>
> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200
> CCAs
>
> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am
> going to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/-
> wiresassuming that is the best way, right?
>
> -Nghthwklvr
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>
> 
>
> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO
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> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
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> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[James O'Gorman]

“click click” means that things are trying to work. keep the battery charging 
for a while and try again. verify that the cells in the battery are filled up 
properly.

> On Jun 22, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Richard Potter <rpot...@anaheim.net> wrote:
> 
> Ck your ground cable where it bolts to the engine / frame
> Take it off and clean it
> Ck for voltage at the solenoid
> One side will be hot all the time the other will be hot when cranking
>  
> From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:40 PM
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...
>  
> So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...
> 
> Thoughts? Suggestions? 
> 
> Working on cleaning the starter now...
> 
> 
> -NghtHwkLvr
> 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive 
> 
> -Original Message- 
> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com 
>  
> [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com 
> ] On Behalf Of 
> NghthwkLvr (NL) 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM 
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics... 
> 
> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 
> CCAs 
> 
> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am going 
> to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- wiresassuming 
> that is the best way, right? 
> 
> -Nghthwklvr 
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 
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> <https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers>. 
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> <https://groups.google.com/d/optout>. 
> 
>  
> 
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Richard Potter]

Ck your ground cable where it bolts to the engine / frame
Take it off and clean it
Ck for voltage at the solenoid
One side will be hot all the time the other will be hot when cranking

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 2:40 PM
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Working on cleaning the starter now...


-NghtHwkLvr



On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive

-Original Message-
From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthaw...@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 CCAs

I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am going to 
put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- wiresassuming that 
is the best way, right?

-Nghthwklvr

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THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO WHICH 
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is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, 
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THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO WHICH 
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is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthwkLvr (NL)]

So!...still a CLICK-CLICK when I hit the START button...

Thoughts? Suggestions? 

Working on cleaning the starter now...


-NghtHwkLvr



On Wednesday, June 22, 2016 at 3:29:01 PM UTC-5, Richard Potter wrote:
>
> Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive 
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: nighthaw...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> nighthaw...@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL) 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM 
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics... 
>
> SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 
> CCAs 
>
> I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am 
> going to put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- 
> wiresassuming that is the best way, right? 
>
> -Nghthwklvr 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to nighthawk_love...@googlegroups.com . 
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> . 
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> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. 
>
>  
>
> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO 
> WHICH IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED, 
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Richard Potter]

Yes your tender lead should have a fuse inline that lead is your positive

-Original Message-
From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of NghthwkLvr (NL)
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 12:49 PM
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 CCAs

I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am going to 
put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- wiresassuming that 
is the best way, right?

-Nghthwklvr

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthwkLvr (NL)]

SO!...I had the new battery tested at Sears and it tested GOOD on 200 CCAs

I am preparing to re-install the battery with the tender leads so I am going to 
put the leads between the battery terminals and the +/- wiresassuming that 
is the best way, right?

-Nghthwklvr

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthawkLvr]

No...I have not had the battery tested...will do that tomorrow...Also
haven't tried using my truck battery since it also is giving me
trouble...SO...I guess that's the plan for tomorrow:  getting both MC and
TRUCK battery checked out...

I'll post another update tomorrow...thanks!...I'm glad that I at least have
a plan!

-NghtHwkLvr


On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 9:32 PM, EGrider  wrote:

> You haven't confirmed that you had the battery tested. Did you?
>
> What happens when you attach a car battery with jumper cables? Does it
> turn over the engine?
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[EGrider]

You haven't confirmed that you had the battery tested. Did you?

What happens when you attach a car battery with jumper cables? Does it turn 
over the engine?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthwkLvr (NL)]

Hey Guys...I'm not functioning at 100% these days...I tried to update this 
thread almost two weeks ago...but it didn't go through. 

Anyway, what I tried to tell y'all then was that my son and I put the 
multi-meter on both the battery and starter and found we were getting 12 volts 
on both...my son claimed that was good but to me it was a little low...what do 
y'all think?

So a few days ago I put the bike on the tender...and when I went out the next 
day to troubleshoot it, it actually turned over a few times but didn't start...
I went out again today, and I was actually able to get it started...but it 
wouldn't stay on...after a while of trying to keep it idling it went back to 
the click clicking...so, I am stumped again...
Is it the battery?
Is it the starter?
Could it be both?
And what about the idle adjustment...should it be closed, almost closed, open, 
or wide open?

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated...I just want to get it running 
so I can go on a quick spin and then do the required preventive maintenance. 

Thanks again guys!

-Nghthwklvr

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[NghthawkLvr]

Thanks for the response...
And no, I haven't done anything...guess I'll be troubleshooting it later
today!

-Nghthwklvr
On Jun 8, 2016 05:51, "EGrider"  wrote:

> That's a "bad battery" sound to me, but since you've got a new battery in
> it, that points to something else. As you know, electrical connections will
> oxidize over time, increasing resistance and reducing current flow.
>
> At the very least, clean the connections to the starter motor, put some
> dielectric grease on them, and put them back. Have you put a multimeter on
> the leads to the starter motor?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[Kyle Munz]

+1 on checking the starter. But also, just because a battery is new is no
guarantee that it's good. Take it to a competing shop and have them test
it.


-Kyle

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 10:52 AM,  wrote:

> Yeah, clean out the starter of all the carbon dust and look at the brushes
> while in there.
> Next stop, carb diagnostics, I hope.
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[mark . wfeld]

Yeah, clean out the starter of all the carbon dust and look at the brushes 
while in there. 
Next stop, carb diagnostics, I hope.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburator Basics...

[EGrider]

That's a "bad battery" sound to me, but since you've got a new battery in 
it, that points to something else. As you know, electrical connections will 
oxidize over time, increasing resistance and reducing current flow.

At the very least, clean the connections to the starter motor, put some 
dielectric grease on them, and put them back. Have you put a multimeter on 
the leads to the starter motor?

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