Re: A digital weekend ( long )
de-cloaking yes it does use the AA type, I used the ones supplied with the camera, not my own 1600 mha ones that I keep in the AF500 flash. The batteries could have been abused hence low on capacity as what you are experiencing doesn't sound right. The storage was micro-drive? If so I suspect that that would have added significantly to the power consumption as does using the post view LCD. Cotty could provide some reference real world experience with the D60 as he has had his for a month or two now. FWIW I get around 150 4MP shots off to a set of 4 AA 1600mAh NiMH cells in my E-10. I ran for 2 weeks on a double battery pack set in the battery grip shooting around 800 images. Use of the flash was minimal. Use of the rear LCD minimal. I run 512 MB and 256 MB CF cards. I suspect a problem with Brendan's power sources / may not have been fully charged. FWIW, I have the LCD set to not come on automatically after each shot, and I must agree with Rob about not letting clients look at the results so early. When shooting Betacam, anyone wants to look at the tape down the viewfinder is met with a 'I'm sorry but that facility is not available at this time' courtesy message from me. I, too, was unaware that the D60 was slated as a studio camera, and is certainly not regarded as a full 'professional' camera, at least from where I sit. .02, re-cloaking Cotty Free UK Macintosh Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ Oh, swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps/
Re: Dust in Lenses
Hi Fred, This is just a hypothesis, but I would guess that non-IF, non-FREE lenses have elements fixed with relation to each-other, so there is no air movin between the glass surfaces. IF and FREE lenses do have elements moving WRT others, so there is also air-flow, and thus an influx of dust. Cheers, Boz
Re: Dust in Lenses
Hi, On 12 Nov 2002 at 21:41, Bojidar Dimitrov wrote: This is just a hypothesis, but I would guess that non-IF, non-FREE lenses have elements fixed with relation to each-other, so there is no air movin between the glass surfaces. IF and FREE lenses do have elements moving WRT others, so there is also air-flow, and thus an influx of dust. This is true for primes. And even those have that annoying small metal parts called aperture blades moving between the lenses... Gabor
Re: Dust in Lenses
2) How do you deal with dust, and how do you store and protect your lenses? I buy foam lined hard cases for all my gear (photo, video and audio) and cut them to match the gear. Store them in there, label the outside and you know where everything is. They travel well (especially flying), are pretty dust proof due to the seal made by the foam and you can tell if somethings missing by the gap in the foam. Which reminds me I must cut a hole in the camera case for the Optio...
RE: Dust in Lenses
I be being dumb (probably - no need to rub it in!), but surely ALL lenses even primes without IF have moving elements - isnt this how focussing works, by moving certain elements in relation to others? Or does the entire enclosure move as one so focussing is purely down to the distance between the assembly and the film plane? -Original Message- From: Sas Gabor [mailto:sas.gabor;fornax.hu] Sent: 13 November 2002 09:58 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dust in Lenses Hi, On 12 Nov 2002 at 21:41, Bojidar Dimitrov wrote: This is just a hypothesis, but I would guess that non-IF, non-FREE lenses have elements fixed with relation to each-other, so there is no air movin between the glass surfaces. IF and FREE lenses do have elements moving WRT others, so there is also air-flow, and thus an influx of dust. This is true for primes. And even those have that annoying small metal parts called aperture blades moving between the lenses... Gabor
Re: OT More flower pics
Rob wrote: RS For those listers with a penchant for nice (albeit clichéd) flower pics see: RS http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/flowers/ Hi Rob, A couple are quite nice, however most of them sin by too distracting backgrounds - either less inspired or not blurred enough. The last one is due to the huge dof, I suppose. RS If only Mike J was subscribed I'm sure I'd receive a fair critique :-) Sure, like from digital to digital guy. ;o) Servus, Alin
RE: Christmas cards
I guess you must source your comparison tests outside the entire suite of UK photographic publications then. -Original Message- From: Paul Stenquist [mailto:pnstenquist;comcast.net] Sent: 13 November 2002 01:41 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Christmas cards Rob Brigham wrote: Consensus is that Canon has now overtaken Epson in the quality stakes. The comparison tests I've seen seem to indicate otherwise. Unless, perhaps, you're tooking about the quality of the machinery rather than the quality of the output. Paul
Re: OT: sliding away?
I'd love to see them. My daughter is on the synchronized skating team at Michigan State. Paul Stenquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My daughter is on a synchronized skating team and I have great fun using photoshop to create types of collages for the team's website. I take about a half dozen photos of the team, individuals whatever and create an 8X10. Some of the images are close cropped, others have shadows etc etc. They are very effective. A similar idea can be done with any subject. Your kids, a family vacation, your pets ... It's even a nice way to set up a portfolio. I'll put a few on my Website if anyone is interested... Vic In a message dated 11/12/02 8:40:14 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: PhotoShop is fun, and the more you play, the more you learn. Paul Stenquist
Vs: Who makes what?
Wasn´t there a 28-105 also by Tamron? All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Michel Carrère-Gée [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 13. marraskuuta 2002 8:39 Aihe: Re: Who makes what? Raimo Korhonen a écrit: ... As to the Cosina-Pentax link it is pure speculation by myself The only know Pentax lens made by Cosina is: SMC Pentax FA 100mm f/3.5 Macro And by Tamron: SMC Pentax FA 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 AL-IF That's all! Michel
Re[2]: Christmas cards
From my experience, separate cartridges really become useful if you print a lot of images that are heavy in one color. Printing lots of yellow flowers will run out the yellow quicker than some other colors, for example. But for general printing, as Doug said, it isn't that big of a deal. Bruce Wednesday, November 13, 2002, 6:13:05 AM, you wrote: DF Hi Keith, DF On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 04:00:27 -0800, Keith Whaley wrote: Let's be clear...you mean 6 or more separate ink containers? DF That's more of an economic decision. I use an Epson 820, which has one DF container with black and the other holds all five other colors. If that's so. when would you know when one reservoir ran out of it's particular ink? DF If the status displays by the Epson driver are to be believed, black DF lasts longer than any color (larger volume container) and the other DF five typically aren't more than a few percentage points different in DF their consumption. That is, it rarely reports that I've got almost an DF empty cyan, but nearly full light cyan, magenta, light magenta, and DF yellow, or anything like that. I've never cracked open a spent DF cartridge, so I don't know if the status displays are accurate. DF That said, separate cartridges would be more economically efficient. DF They also introduce extra plumbing to deal with, and the ones I've seen DF mount the ink supplies outside the chassis of the printer, making them DF more susceptible to the attentions of my cats. Do the printers so equipped have warnings when that happens? If not, I suspect that one missing color may be too subtle to detect readily... DF One missing color is generally very easy to detect. I've got one DF around here somewhere. If I can find it, I'll scan a portion of it and DF put it on my web site. DF TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re[2]: Christmas cards
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm sure there are a few people on the list who can scan, adjust and print out perfect prints everytime. this is one of the advantages of haveing good color management. after committing to print, i almost never have to make a second print. it's right the first time, or at least close enough i don't care. a couple of times in the recent few months, i have made different prints with different color settings, but that was a deliberate choice to experiment with different amounts of saturation. bpth prints are nice, they just convey different moods. Herb...
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] The question is whether or not the MZ-5n/3 has played out it's role. There's not much you can do with the MZ-5n/3 and still keep it simple. You can of course update the AF but you cannot have several AF points without redesigning or complicate the user interface. I feel that the MZ-S really is the updated MZ-5n/3. Pål two features i am missing that i would like to see, mirror lockup and P-TTL flash support. Herb
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Pål Jensen wrote: The question is whether or not the MZ-5n/3 has played out it's role. There's not much you can do with the MZ-5n/3 and still keep it simple. You can of course update the AF but you cannot have several AF points without redesigning or complicate the user interface. I feel that the MZ-S really is the updated MZ-5n/3. I've never held or seen an MZ-S in the flesh, does it have the same general layout, that is a real dial on the top to do shutter speeds -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, Herb Chong wrote: (on the ZX-5n) two features i am missing that i would like to see, mirror lockup and P-TTL flash support. Nicer viewfinder and more conductive to manual focussing! Half-stops for shutter speed, too... -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re[3]: Christmas cards
Herb, Would you please go into detail about exactly what you have done (including costs where you can) to have good color management? That would be most enlightening. What quality of equipment, software, etc? Thanks, Bruce Wednesday, November 13, 2002, 8:26:10 AM, you wrote: HC Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm sure there are a few people on the list who can scan, adjust and HC print out perfect prints everytime. HC this is one of the advantages of haveing good color management. after HC committing to print, i almost never have to make a second print. it's right HC the first time, or at least close enough i don't care. a couple of times in HC the recent few months, i have made different prints with different color HC settings, but that was a deliberate choice to experiment with different HC amounts of saturation. bpth prints are nice, they just convey different HC moods. HC Herb...
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
- Original Message - From: gfen [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've never held or seen an MZ-S in the flesh, does it have the same general layout, that is a real dial on the top to do shutter speeds Yes.
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
- Original Message - From: gfen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 5:44 PM Subject: Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, Herb Chong wrote: (on the ZX-5n) two features i am missing that i would like to see, mirror lockup and P-TTL flash support. Nicer viewfinder and more conductive to manual focussing! Half-stops for shutter speed, too... The MZ-S got that as well... Pål
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, gfen wrote: I've never held or seen an MZ-S in the flesh, does it have the same general layout, that is a real dial on the top to do shutter speeds Control-C aborts, Control-X sends.. they're next to each other, and evidently, I misse dthe right one. Anyways, when I'm less bored and less worked, I'll just dig this up myself, so nevermind the inane question (and only half completed, at that, as I had many other questions about the layout which I'm sure are answered in a dozen plus places on the internet) (golly, it sure would be NICE if my local shops carried Pentax in the flesh, sigh, etc) (felt obligated to add that last part) -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Pål Jensen wrote: Yes. -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re[2]: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
gfen, The slanted top plate has a dial that surrounds an LCD. By spinning the dial, you change shutter speeds. Pretty much the same. One general fault with a true dial like the MZ-5n is that it has a limited number of positions so you can't set as many shutter speeds - for example, faster than 1/2000 (MZ-3 goes to 1/4000) or longer than 1 second, or half stop speeds, etc. Using the dial plus middle LCD readout, you can have an almost infinite (seeming) number of positions. With the readout changing as you spin, it has much the same general style as a traditional shutter speed dial. There is an added bonus, when the camera is not in shooting mode, the dial doubles as the interface for other settings, like setting the ISO. It is quite an ingenious, clean, simple design. In fact, when you learn to lightly pull with your thumb instead of pushing against the dial, you can very easily change shutter speeds while looking through the viewfinder and still keeping your shutter finger properly placed. A traditional SS dial requires a thumb and finger to operate - clumsier. Bruce Wednesday, November 13, 2002, 8:42:51 AM, you wrote: g On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Pål Jensen wrote: The question is whether or not the MZ-5n/3 has played out it's role. There's not much you can do with the MZ-5n/3 and still keep it simple. You can of course update the AF but you cannot have several AF points without redesigning or complicate the user interface. I feel that the MZ-S really is the updated MZ-5n/3. g I've never held or seen an MZ-S in the flesh, does it have the same g general layout, that is a real dial on the top to do shutter speeds
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Pål Jensen wrote: Nicer viewfinder and more conductive to manual focussing! Half-stops for shutter speed, too... The MZ-S got that as well... Perhaps I owe it to myself to checck an MZ-S next time I'm at BH... -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, gfen wrote: On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, [iso-8859-1] Pål Jensen wrote: Yes. Wow, I've fatfingered two responses in a row.. Perhaps I _shouldn't_ be working today.. I knew it was a mistake to be up at 4am entertaining guests... (yawn) -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re[2]: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote: The slanted top plate has a dial that surrounds an LCD. By spinning the dial, you change shutter speeds. Pretty much the same. One Does this mean this same dial works to control aperature when in Av mode? That actually was a part of the -5n I wasn't happy with, several of my lenses choose not to relay aperature back to the viewfinder, which can be confusing unless I take it down to look. general fault with a true dial like the MZ-5n is that it has a limited number of positions so you can't set as many shutter speeds - for example, faster than 1/2000 (MZ-3 goes to 1/4000) or longer than 1 second, or half stop speeds, etc. Using the dial plus middle LCD I was able to understand the lack of halfstops on the -5n, but I was kinda bitter about it.. I actually forgot it didn't go above 2s, either, unless in a program mode.. shows how often I've had to do that outside of bulb. readout, you can have an almost infinite (seeming) number of positions. With the readout changing as you spin, it has much the same general style as a traditional shutter speed dial. New and old, works for me. There is an added bonus, when the camera is not in shooting mode, the dial doubles as the interface for other settings, like setting the ISO. My fondest feeling about the ZX-5n is that with a quick glance to teh front, and one to the top, I'll know EVERYTHING about the camera.. most of the actual important information is viewable top down, with the exception of MF/AF and AF size... It is quite an ingenious, clean, simple design. In fact, when you learn to lightly pull with your thumb instead of pushing against the dial, you can very easily change shutter speeds while looking through the viewfinder and still keeping your shutter finger properly placed. A traditional SS dial requires a thumb and finger to operate - clumsier. I'm not sure, but I believe I've been able to spin my -5n with thumb, alone. Gonna have to go home and try that out. I knew the MZ-S had some retro styling to it, I'm glad to know that its more than just a bit.. Perhaps I won't be so upset afterall when the -5n/-3 line is terminated, after all. Now, if only the MZ-S would start to pop up on the secondary market, I'm starting to realize just how little I should be blowing on toys for me and how much I should be spending on getting my debt paid off and house cleaned up... I really hate when these moments of responsibility get in the way of my otherwise good times. ;) -- http://www.infotainment.org - more fun than a poke in your eye. http://www.eighteenpercent.com- photography and portfolio.
Re: Re[2]: Christmas cards
Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mark, How about 3 more data points. I have owned an 870, 780 and 820. The 870 is the oldest and still works fine - never a clogged head even with periods of no use. Both the 780 and the 820 are now in the trash due to cheap construction, cheap cost and clogged heads. Interesting that the one you never had trouble with (the 870) has the same mechanism/engine as the 1270 (the one I've never had trouble with). -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Nicer viewfinder and more conductive to manual focussing! Half-stops for shutter speed, too... The MZ-S got that as well... Pål twice the price of ZX-5n though. i was looking for a camera body in the $500 street price range. there is too large a gap between MZ-S and ZX-5n. Herb
Re: Vs: Who makes what?
Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Wasn´t there a 28-105 also by Tamron? All the best! Don't know about that but the 28-200 is/was a rebadged Tamron. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Re: MZ-S can you ...
Hallo, in manual mode of the MZ-S, the you can do flash bracketing with older TTL flashes like the AF500. regards Rüdiger -Ursprüngliche Nachricht- Von: Sylwester Pietrzyk [EMAIL PROTECTED] An: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Datum: Sonntag, 10. November 2002 00:43 Betreff: Re: MZ-S can you ... On Sun, 10 Nov 2002, Leon Altoff wrote: Brad, White hankerchiefs have no effect when using TTL. I know that on the Z1, MZ-3 and MZ-5n you can set the camera to manual and use the exposure compensation on the camera to affect the TTL flash output. On the MZ-S this does not appear to be the case. I have a custom built flash with 2 heads, that used to be an AF240FT which I use for macro work. It's far lighter and easier to carry than 2 of any sort of flash and I'd like to use it with the MZ-S. Without the capability to do flash compensation and auto bracketing it makes it a lot less useful. I have tried to do nowhere mentioned (with exception of Canadian MZ-S PDF-brochure) flash bracketing and it certainly works with MZ-S and AF360. Unfortunately I don't know if this is the case with other flashes... -- Regards Sylwek
Re: Lowepro SF Reporter 100? (Was Re: OT: Domke Bags)
On Tue, 12 Nov 2002, Pat wrote: My new question: Has anyone used the smaller version of the Reporter series (100 200)? I believe David Brooks wrote something about this in the past? I have a Lowepro SF 200. I find the size just right for me. I've taken it through crowded antique shops full of crap that I can't afford to replace with no problems. I usually carry 3 lenes and one body and tons of film, but there is room for a second body if I cut down on film a bit. Nice bag. - Chris -- Chris Murray /\ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN http://apeman.org/ XAGAINST HTML MAIL Cell: 604.861.8307 / \/ Please avoid sending me Word or PowerPoint attachments. See http://www.fsf.org/philosophy/no-word-attachments.html
Re: OT More flower pics
On Tuesday, November 12, 2002, at 11:11 PM, Rob Studdert wrote: For those listers with a penchant for nice (albeit clichéd) flower pics see: http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/flowers/ If only Mike J was subscribed I'm sure I'd receive a fair critique :-) Cheers, Rob Studdert Rob, I like the Oxalis. The rose pictures are probably good (but I'm allergic to rose pictures, so there you go vbg). Dan Scott (flower shooter)
Re[2]: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
Pål wrote: PJ The question is whether or not the MZ-5n/3 has played out it's PJ role. There's not much you can do with the MZ-5n/3 and still keep PJ it simple. You can of course update the AF but you cannot have PJ several AF points without redesigning or complicate the user PJ interface. I feel that the MZ-S really is the updated MZ-5n/3. MZ-5n was intended to rescue old timers and it may have ended its mission indeed. The question is, is there a retro trend out there to justify Pentax to upgrade it? If not, what will they do for the 5n followers besides offering a very expensive upgrade path to the MZ-S? Servus, Alin
Re: Re[2]: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
On Wednesday, November 13, 2002, at 11:04 AM, gfen wrote: Now, if only the MZ-S would start to pop up on the secondary market, I'm starting to realize just how little I should be blowing on toys for me and how much I should be spending on getting my debt paid off and house cleaned up... I really hate when these moments of responsibility get in the way of my otherwise good times. ;) Go take a look over at KEH; 3 or 4 where available second-hand the last time I looked. Dan Scott
Vs: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
More than double here in Finland: MZ-S 1100 Euros, MZ-5n 444 Euros, battery pack BG-10 180 Euros, Fg 52 Euros. And the MZ-5n has the clearest, most understandable user interface. I´m beginning to like my MZ-S though. All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Herb Chong [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 13. marraskuuta 2002 17:52 Aihe: Re: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan Message text written by INTERNET:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Nicer viewfinder and more conductive to manual focussing! Half-stops for shutter speed, too... The MZ-S got that as well... Pål twice the price of ZX-5n though. i was looking for a camera body in the $500 street price range. there is too large a gap between MZ-S and ZX-5n. Herb
Finally! I got an SMC-FA 50mm 1.4 lens and have acceptedautofocus! (long)
It's a big step in my continuing evolving interest in photography -- the biggest surprise is, I can't believe the manual focus feel of this lens is significantly superior than the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 lens I have, but it is. I no longer fear the future, and I know my manual focus stuff can happily coexist with a more modern outfit. For too long, I had been trying for a compromise. I long resisted autofocus, both because of the blobbish plastic bodies of current cameras and because of the seemingly terrible manual focus feel of autofocus lenses (but this was based on the only autofocus lenses I ever handled, which were on horrible C Rebels and the like at the Wal-Mart electronics counter). I had been nurturing my love for old manual-focus equipment, building a Pentax screwmount collection and upgrading my original high-school-era K-1000 with a KX and then an MX, and building a collection of mostly M-series primes. Then I bought an ME on an impulse a few years ago, and discovered autoexposure! How nifty! Set the aperture and the camera selects a stepless shutter speed! How modern and convenient! I could live with that! I thought I could bring myself to embrace early '80s technology and create the ultimate (budget-priced) Pentax manual focus kit, so I tried a Super Program and got a few A-series lenses like the 50 1.4. With program exposure, it was pretty much the most advanced Pentax equipment before the advent of autofocus SLRs. However, I never liked the Super Program as much as the sleek and stylish ME, perhaps because of the very plasticky rear grip, plasticky wind lever, and the fiddly mode dial. Also, I was quite underwhelmed by the sloppy and imprecise focus feel of the A lenses. The M lenses were worlds better, as were my K 50 1.4 and all my Super Takumars. I only bought a PZ-1 because I came across a great deal at my local camera shop. I had thought all modern Pentaxes of the '90s were flimsy and plasticky -- the PZ-1, while plasticky, is far heavier and more solid-feeling than the ZX-M. The PZ-1 came with an SMC-F 50 f1.7, which did have the fairly loose and whirry manual focus action I expected (but still produced great Pentax quality images). I spent nearly a year using my manual-focus lenses on the PZ-1 and using it as my main camera -- mostly photos of my two young daughters and family trips and events. I only occasionally put on the 50 1.7 F for fun -- almost as a novelty. But my sister ran in the NYC marathon earlier this month, and I was inspired to pick up the original 28-105 power zoom lens for this camera and get photos of her in action using equipment that would likely give me better results. Predictive autofocus and autowind, circa 1992! It was the most modern camera outfit I ever used, and it was fun, and still had the Pentax feel, albeit with a completely different interface! The 28-105 zoom, with its long throw and narrow focus ring, is certainly not meant to be manually focused at all with any ease of use, but I can accept that. I also picked up the constant-aperture SMC-FA 28-70 f4 lens, which has a very good reputation but is also light and plasticky. But I finally got the SMC-FA 50mm f1.4 (via KEH, EX+ condition), something I felt the camera deserved as a present. (Ha -- enablement at its worst! The lens isn't a toy for me, it's for the camera! Has anyone else ever felt this way?) What a beautiful lens! The focus feel is definitely better than the A lenses I've tried. Who woulda thunk it? And I've never even seen a Limited lens in the flesh or tried one, which would probably bolster my confidence in Pentax even more (and tempt me terribly ...). I don't fear the continued wave of evolving autofocus cameras, at least ones that are well designed, well built and created with pride. (I would probably really like an MZ-S). I don't fear digital, either, since a Pentax digital will likely be able to use many (if not all) of my lenses. In ditching the Super Program, I made a conscious effort to split the thrust of my photo collection -- on the one hand, backwards to the '70s and '60s: a fine set of manual focus, mostly manual cameras (MX, ME Super, ESII, Spotmatic) that I use for my own pleasure (all my prowling around the Finger Lakes area, my scenic shots, my black-and-white); and on the other hand, forward to the '90s at least: a fairly modern, well designed camera, also Pentax, that can use the latest autofocus lenses -- but that can also take any of the lenses I have! Maybe this is all a rationalization for the continued enablement this list has provided me for the past two years -- or I just use too many words to say that I REALLY like Pentax equipment. The photos I take with it all are quite nice, too! Joe
Re: Finally! I got an SMC-FA 50mm 1.4 lens and have accepted autofocus! (long)
Your post seems to be a study in self-enablement at its finest. Put it down on paper and it will come true. ;-) On Wednesday 13 November 2002 07:21 pm, Joe Wilensky wrote: It's a big step in my continuing evolving interest in photography -- the biggest surprise is, I can't believe the manual focus feel of this lens is significantly superior than the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 lens I have, but it is. I no longer fear the future, and I know my manual focus stuff can happily coexist with a more modern outfit. For too long, I had been trying for a compromise. -- Kenneth Archer, San Antonio, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Lowepro SF Reporter 100? (Was Re: OT: Domke Bags)
--- David Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My friend has the LP 100 and has added two side bags to keep extra stuff in. The ability to add-on is a nice option to have, especially if I want to add a water bottle or something. I have my eye on a Reporter 100 for now. Was really a debate between the 100 200. But if the equipment doesn't fit, *maybe* I don't need it. Plus less gear, less fumbling. I have the 300 for the digital and it holds the D1 body in 1 slot,80-200 and 35-70 in two slots and a flash in the last slot.There is just enough room in a slot for the spare nicad.Note books,CF cards etc fit niceley in the pockets up front.I still feel a side bag is needed if i add any more equipment(not likely,have to pay this off first:)) I, too, have the Reporter 300. Really useful when I'm going on a trip and would like to cram even the inconceiveables in there. Dunno if I'll use this or that item, but nuts, always wish I had it w/ me if I didn't bring it syndrome. But a little too spacious for local outings. These bags come with built in soft lens tubes that can be removed(velcrow)but if they only added a couple of spare slot makers that would help.Alan mentioned they are bulky. I agree,but they are sturdy. Checking in my 300, it seems as if other dividers could be velcroed (is that a word?) in to replace the default. However, not being crafty myself, hard to envision it. Pat in SF __ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
Re: Finally! I got an SMC-FA 50mm 1.4 lens and have acceptedautofocus! (long)
Yes, self-enablement gets easier the more you think about it! BTW, because of my last few lens purchases, I'll be offering at least a couple of A-series lenses for sale next week -- the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 and the SMC-A 35-70 f4 (the constant-aperture one, better optically than the later A-series 35-70 zoom). E-mail me early if you're interested, I'll have pics and details next week. Joe Your post seems to be a study in self-enablement at its finest. Put it down on paper and it will come true. ;-) On Wednesday 13 November 2002 07:21 pm, Joe Wilensky wrote: It's a big step in my continuing evolving interest in photography -- the biggest surprise is, I can't believe the manual focus feel of this lens is significantly superior than the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 lens I have, but it is. I no longer fear the future, and I know my manual focus stuff can happily coexist with a more modern outfit. For too long, I had been trying for a compromise. -- Kenneth Archer, San Antonio, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wideangle Dilemmas
Hi Gang, After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Finally! I got an SMC-FA 50mm 1.4 lens and have accepted autofocus! (long)
Joe, I'm assuming you're still enjoying the M40/2.8. Jeff. - Original Message - From: Joe Wilensky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 3:05 PM Subject: Re: Finally! I got an SMC-FA 50mm 1.4 lens and have accepted autofocus! (long) Yes, self-enablement gets easier the more you think about it! BTW, because of my last few lens purchases, I'll be offering at least a couple of A-series lenses for sale next week -- the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 and the SMC-A 35-70 f4 (the constant-aperture one, better optically than the later A-series 35-70 zoom). E-mail me early if you're interested, I'll have pics and details next week. Joe Your post seems to be a study in self-enablement at its finest. Put it down on paper and it will come true. ;-) On Wednesday 13 November 2002 07:21 pm, Joe Wilensky wrote: It's a big step in my continuing evolving interest in photography -- the biggest surprise is, I can't believe the manual focus feel of this lens is significantly superior than the SMC-A 50mm f1.4 lens I have, but it is. I no longer fear the future, and I know my manual focus stuff can happily coexist with a more modern outfit. For too long, I had been trying for a compromise. -- Kenneth Archer, San Antonio, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re[2]: AP (16/11) - Pentax UK Confirms digital SLR launch plan
Alin wrote: If not, what will they do for the 5n followers besides offering a very expensive upgrade path to the MZ-S? Nothing of course! Pentax never provides direct upgrade paths but leave the customers unsupported. Pål
Pentax K2 and K1000 dimensions
This is a question from photo.net (http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0041l2) from a long time Pentax user that can't seem to get through to PDML: Hello. I have a technical question for the few Pentaxer's out there (I'd like to do this through the PDML site, but still no luck getting through with them). I need to know if the K2 and K1000 are dimensionally similar (ie. same size 'footprint') and if the shutter release and advancing mechanism are superimposable on each other. I checked out Boz's site and while they look identical, I cannot be sure. Any help would be appreciated. Doug Stemke To reply directly try: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
Shaun, I believe that if the filter system is a critical factor in your choice, then you are picking the Tokina. The FA *24 hood will not fit a 77mm filter. I just tried it - no go. Having used both the FA *24 and the Tokina, the Pentax is one sweet lens. The Tokina is no slouch either, but flare control is not nearly as good. Do be cautious with polarizing at 24mm or wider. You might end up with some banding in the sky. Bruce Wednesday, November 13, 2002, 1:07:56 PM, you wrote: SC Hi Gang, SC After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA SC 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my SC wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears SC to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. SC Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and SC the other two are just expensive. SC A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to SC fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the SC 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters SC stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, SC will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? SC If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded SC lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. SC Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm SC filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm SC threaded Tokina more attractive. SC Cheers SC Shaun Canning SC Archaeology Department SC La Trobe University, SC Bundoora, VIC, 3086, SC Australia. SC Ph: 0414-967 644 SC e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Larry Burrows Vietnam
Hi, Larry Burrows was a British photographer who was killed in Vietnam. I don't think he is very well known outside photographic circles (wherein he is a legend). His work has not been very widely published in recent years, so some people on the list may not be very familiar with it, except for a few key, classic images. A new book with the title above has just been published. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/037541102X/qid=1037223659/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/104-3747888-3031947?v=glances=books I only saw it today for the first time, so I bought it but I haven't yet removed the shrink wrap, therefore I can't comment yet on the contents. But I have his one other book, a tribute called 'Larry Burrows Compassionate Photographer', published by Life shortly after his death, and it is superb, so I fully expect this one to be. His work is also featured in 'Requiem'. He used to work in the Life lab in London during WWII and for a long time it was rumoured that he was the poor sod who ruined Capa's D-Day snaps. At one time he also worked for the National Gallery (I think) in London, photographing old master paintings. He attributed his compositional skills to that period, and he is indeed a master of composition. We could probably all learn a great deal by studying his photos. That's all - just a 'heads up', as you Americans say, for those who are interested. Cheers, Bob
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
On Wednesday, November 13, 2002, at 03:07 PM, Shaun Canning wrote: Hi Gang, After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. Cheers Shaun Canning Hi Shaun, You have a problem. The step-up ring is too big to fit inside the FA 24/2's hood. It shouldn't cause any problems otherwise (are your filter rings unusually big and thick?). Are you sure you're going to want to use a CP with this lens, anyway? The angle of view on this lens 84 degrees. That's a pretty broad swath of sky or water. Dan Scott
Re: Christmas cards
I've been using an Epson 1200 for about five years. I've experienced clogged heads five times or so, but the problem was always solved with a nozzle cleaning or two. I'm extremely pleased with the performance of this printer. In my line of work I have the opportunity to review the portfolios of numerous high-dollar pros. Most of the portfolios consist of inkjet prints. I've inquired numerous times in regard to how they were produced. All were done on Epsons. Some on 2000s, some on 1270s or 1280s, and quite a few on the older 1200s. Paul Stenquist Doug Franklin wrote: On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:18:14 -, Rob Brigham wrote: If I print more than 2 or so sheets of A4 without running normal porous paper in the meantime then one or other of the heads often clogs. I haven't had a problem like that. If I had, I'd have returned the printer. TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Re[2]: Christmas cards
Hi Bruce, On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:03:35 -0800, Bruce Dayton wrote: I'm sure there are a few people on the list who can scan, adjust and print out perfect prints everytime. I am not one of them. It sounds to me like there are problems in your color calibration. I just use the monitor calibration in Photoshop, and I use the Epson supplied ICC profile for the 820. My CanoScan FS4000US seems to scan to the RGB color space pretty accurately, so I don't use a device-specific profile for it. One day I might generate my own color profiles for the scanner and/or printer, but I'm getting good fidelity just using the one supplied by Epson with the printer. TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Re[2]: Christmas cards
Hi Bruce, On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 08:06:31 -0800, Bruce Dayton wrote: From my experience, separate cartridges really become useful if you print a lot of images that are heavy in one color. Printing lots of yellow flowers will run out the yellow quicker than some other colors, for example. But for general printing, as Doug said, it isn't that big of a deal. That's definitely been my experience. The vast majority of the photos that I shoot and print consume the inks pretty consistently across the different colors. I did run a cartridge out of one color (light magenta, I think) when I did a whole bunch of 8 x 10 prints of a big pink rose. TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Another Graywolf update
Hi Bob Tom, I just got Frank T's address, and I think he expects it from me, so if you don't mind...I'll do that. Thanks for the attention. keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Keith Bill, Frank was going to coordinate all this and send a lump sum or two. I think you need Frank's address. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: - Original Message - From: Keith Whaley Subject: Re: Another Graywolf update I need an address to send my money to, please. Tom Rittenhouse P. O. Box 563, Boone NC 28222, USA
Re: Lowepro SF Reporter 100? (Was Re: OT: Domke Bags)
Howdy, folks, On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:49:48 -0800 (PST), Pat wrote: The ability to add-on is a nice option to have, [...] Speaking of which, have any of you tried out the Tamron MAS (Modular Attachment System) components? TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: Re[3]: Christmas cards
On Wed, 13 Nov 2002 17:00:33 -0500, Herb Chong wrote: Beginning Color Management For Photographers Hey, Gary, put that one in the FAQ! :-) TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
Re: November PUG pt1
Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Noli Me Tangere The light playing on the statue here almost makes it seem life-like. I would have liked to have seen this at f16 or 22 perhaps to try to lose some of that background which is a little hazy. I feel the image could be cropped to be rid of that brown tower and in particular the communications tower on the hill which I find a little off putting. Nice shot this. Hi Kevin, As always, I'm very late... BTW, thanks for taking the time to comment. I don't think that a smaller aperture could have helped with the background (too haze indeed) although your point of view on a different cropping is interesting. I have missed that opportunity in the field, though: four shots with almost identical framing... :-( Ciao, Gianfranco = __ Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
Re: Best (Inexpensive) Autofocus Teleconverter?
On Wednesday, November 13, 2002, at 04:46 PM, Michael Cross wrote: Thanks to all who offered opinions on the best lens for candids and portraits of my kids! I got some great advice. I am considering getting the FA 50mm f/1.4 and then using it with a 1.4x teleconverter when I need a portrait length lens. Two questions: 1. How would a 1.4x teleconverter and a 50mm lens work for portraits? What about a 2x teleconverter? 2. Which autofocus teleconverter in the $100 range would perform the best? Thanks! Michael Cross Chico, CA Michael, Instead of getting a teleconverter, take a look at the Russian Jupiter-9, 85/2, lenses being offered on eBay. I just got one and this baby rocks for portraits. You'd need a screw to k-mount adapter, but it's worth it. I'm thinking about picking up one or two more since they're so cheap. Dan Scott
Re: Best (Inexpensive) Autofocus Teleconverter?
On Wednesday, November 13, 2002, at 04:46 PM, Michael Cross wrote: Thanks to all who offered opinions on the best lens for candids and portraits of my kids! I got some great advice. I am considering getting the FA 50mm f/1.4 and then using it with a 1.4x teleconverter when I need a portrait length lens. Two questions: 1. How would a 1.4x teleconverter and a 50mm lens work for portraits? What about a 2x teleconverter? 2. Which autofocus teleconverter in the $100 range would perform the best? Thanks! Michael Cross Chico, CA Disregard my previous post. Didn't realize you were looking for autofocus. Dan Scott
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. I have the FA*24/2.0 and generally use my 77mm filters with it. I just can't use the lens hood when I have one of these on the lens. I do have a 67mm polarizer for occasions when I need a polarizer *and* the lens hood, but this is very rare in practice. Most often I use the 77mm polarizer without the lens hood or a Cokin-style ND grad, which also precludes the use of a lens hood. Here's a shot with the 24/2.0 and 2-stop ND grad: http://www.robertstech.com/temp/7d204610.jpg Not a big deal in practice. And it's a marvelous lens. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Re: Opinions requested: How good is the 645 A-35mm f/3.5? and generally, wide for MF ?
tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Michel Adam wrote: In search of the list wisdom... I am considering enabling me with a 35mm wide for my 645, and would like to get the views of the list users who have used this manual focus lens: How good is it wide open? Very good. How good is it at the best aperture? Excellent+. I think the 45-85 and 120/4 are sharper. It's about on par with the 75, I guess. I don't really do comparisons or strict lens tests. Any flare problem? Not really. Seems to get about the same amount of flare as any other Pentax WA. The FA might be better in this regard as it has a dedicated tulip hood. I think it was optically redesigned too. Apart from the obvious wider field of view, is it sharper than the A-45mm/2.8 ? Couldn't say, I haven't got any film back from my FA 45 to compare. I've used Tom's 35mm f3.5 and it *is* very good! I only used it for a day and didn't take a lot of shots with it, but I really liked the ones I did get. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
Thanks Mark. I am swaying more and more towards the FA 24mm. I have heard nothing but positive comments about this lens, so it must be pretty good. Nice shot BTW. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Mark Roberts [mailto:mark;robertstech.com] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 11:34 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. I have the FA*24/2.0 and generally use my 77mm filters with it. I just can't use the lens hood when I have one of these on the lens. I do have a 67mm polarizer for occasions when I need a polarizer *and* the lens hood, but this is very rare in practice. Most often I use the 77mm polarizer without the lens hood or a Cokin-style ND grad, which also precludes the use of a lens hood. Here's a shot with the 24/2.0 and 2-stop ND grad: http://www.robertstech.com/temp/7d204610.jpg Not a big deal in practice. And it's a marvelous lens. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
Dan Scott wrote: Are you sure you're going to want to use a CP with this lens, anyway? The angle of view on this lens 84 degrees. That's a pretty broad swath of sky or water. I think 24mm is a bit wide for useful polarizing, too. I have found that a deep sky (2a) or something similar can have a good deepening of the blue sky effect w/o the perilz of polarization so common w/ a wide field of view and the resultant variations in degree of polarization across the scene. Interestingly, skylight filters seem to work best for this in line w/ the direction of the light whereas polarizers work best at a 90deg angle to the light. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
Hi, Its a really nice lense, i really couldn;t fault it. I look back at some of shots with this lense and they that 3d look to them, where the main focus of the image just pops out. The only reason i sold mine was because i found it to heavy to lug around, but i like a relatively small and light kit to carry around. Regards, Paul - Original Message - From: Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 12:08 PM Subject: RE: Wideangle Dilemmas Thanks Mark. I am swaying more and more towards the FA 24mm. I have heard nothing but positive comments about this lens, so it must be pretty good. Nice shot BTW. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Mark Roberts [mailto:mark;robertstech.com] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 11:34 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. I have the FA*24/2.0 and generally use my 77mm filters with it. I just can't use the lens hood when I have one of these on the lens. I do have a 67mm polarizer for occasions when I need a polarizer *and* the lens hood, but this is very rare in practice. Most often I use the 77mm polarizer without the lens hood or a Cokin-style ND grad, which also precludes the use of a lens hood. Here's a shot with the 24/2.0 and 2-stop ND grad: http://www.robertstech.com/temp/7d204610.jpg Not a big deal in practice. And it's a marvelous lens. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Re: LX is ISO 6400
This is a new one on me, I knew the LX went from 1600 to 3200 but know nothing about 6400. Interestingly the earlier KX goes to 6400 Anton ___ Freeserve AnyTime, only £13.99 per month with one month's FREE trial! For more information visit http://www.freeserve.com/time/ or call free on 0800 970 8890
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
Thanks Bill. Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Bill D. Casselberry [mailto:bcasselb;orednet.org] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 12:24 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Dan Scott wrote: Are you sure you're going to want to use a CP with this lens, anyway? The angle of view on this lens 84 degrees. That's a pretty broad swath of sky or water. I think 24mm is a bit wide for useful polarizing, too. I have found that a deep sky (2a) or something similar can have a good deepening of the blue sky effect w/o the perilz of polarization so common w/ a wide field of view and the resultant variations in degree of polarization across the scene. Interestingly, skylight filters seem to work best for this in line w/ the direction of the light whereas polarizers work best at a 90deg angle to the light. Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] -
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
Thanks Paul. I have heard that it is a heavy little sucker, but then most of my kit is pretty heavy. If I am going lite, I only take one or two lenses, and leave the others in the car, or at home anyway, so another heavy lens doesn't matter much. I seem to be finding the wide-angle end of town is becoming more and more like a standard lens for me anyway. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Paul Jones [mailto:pdml;nrg666.com] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 12:24 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Hi, Its a really nice lense, i really couldn;t fault it. I look back at some of shots with this lense and they that 3d look to them, where the main focus of the image just pops out. The only reason i sold mine was because i found it to heavy to lug around, but i like a relatively small and light kit to carry around. Regards, Paul - Original Message - From: Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 12:08 PM Subject: RE: Wideangle Dilemmas Thanks Mark. I am swaying more and more towards the FA 24mm. I have heard nothing but positive comments about this lens, so it must be pretty good. Nice shot BTW. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Mark Roberts [mailto:mark;robertstech.com] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 11:34 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: After weighing up the options (FA 20-35mm f4, Tokina ATX-Pro 20-35mm, FA 24-90mm, and FA 24mm f2.0), I am 90% decided on the FA 24mm f2.0 lens as my wide-angle lens. Not only is it the cheapest of these options, but appears to get consistently good reviews from those who have owned or used it. Quality control issues seem to be a bit of a theme with the FA20-35mm, and the other two are just expensive. A problem others may have encountered is that I have a 77mm filter system to fit all of my other Tokina lenses. Will the 77mm filters go all right on the 24mm (67mm thread) using a step ring? I am concerned that the 77mm filters stepped up on a 67mm thread will be obtrusive and cause vignetting. Also, will the hood clear a 77mm filter on step rings or not? If anybody happens to have or have used this combination of 67mm threaded lens and 77mm filters on an FA 24mm f2.0, I would appreciate your comments. Mostly because if it doesn't work, I'm not going to buy an entire new 67mm filter system for one lens. Even adding a 67mm polariser makes the 77mm threaded Tokina more attractive. I have the FA*24/2.0 and generally use my 77mm filters with it. I just can't use the lens hood when I have one of these on the lens. I do have a 67mm polarizer for occasions when I need a polarizer *and* the lens hood, but this is very rare in practice. Most often I use the 77mm polarizer without the lens hood or a Cokin-style ND grad, which also precludes the use of a lens hood. Here's a shot with the 24/2.0 and 2-stop ND grad: http://www.robertstech.com/temp/7d204610.jpg Not a big deal in practice. And it's a marvelous lens. -- Mark Roberts www.robertstech.com Photography and writing
Pz-1P
Thanks to everyone for their comments regarding the pz-1p over the last few weeks. My new (second-hand) pz-1p arrived today, and I like it already. First impressions are always interesting, and mine are all positive. It 'feels' better than the z-1 if this is possible, considering they are almost identical. The z-1p's shutter is definitely a bit quieter, as is the motor drive. So far so good! Off to run a couple of rolls through it this afternoon Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
e-Bay
Is it just me or is e-Bay having a hissy fit? Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: e-Bay
seems fine to me. - Original Message - From: Shaun Canning [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax-Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 1:51 PM Subject: e-Bay Is it just me or is e-Bay having a hissy fit? Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Wideangle Dilemmas
Shaun a cheaper alternative might be to look for the older Tokina 20-35/3.5??? it's an excellent lens and could be picked up much cheaper than the f2.8. It takes a 77mm filter ring as well.. Vic In a message dated 11/13/02 4:32:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Shaun, I believe that if the filter system is a critical factor in your choice, then you are picking the Tokina. The FA *24 hood will not fit a 77mm filter. I just tried it - no go. Having used both the FA *24 and the Tokina, the Pentax is one sweet lens. The Tokina is no slouch either, but flare control is not nearly as good. Do be cautious with polarizing at 24mm or wider. You might end up with some banding in the sky.
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
Shaun, You might want to consider looking for a used Pentax K 24/2.8 or A 24/2.8. I have the former, and it's quite good and quite small. I can't say how it stacks up against the FA* 24mm, but it take 52mm filters in case you already have some that size. -Scott On Wed, 2002-11-13 at 14:07, Shaun Canning wrote: Thanks Bruce. I am truly torn on this. I know the Tokina's are all pretty good lenses as I have three other ATX-Pro series lenses, and am generally very happy with them. I also know from my research that the FA*24mm is going to be a brilliant lens. I am still not convinced on the Tokina by any means, and may still go with the FA*. The difference in price between the FA* and the Tokina averages about $150.00 USD. That more that pays for the extra 2 or 3 filters I would carry (circ.pol, Grad ND, and an 81a probably). The question is whether I want to cart around duplicate filters or not.
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
Hi Vic, Yep, been there done that. I have just sold a 19-35mm Tokina F/3.5-4.5. It was a solid little performer, however there was a little bit too much light fall-off in the corners. I am looking for a little bit more performance, and am prepared to pay for it. At this stage, I think I will go for the FA* 24mm, as everyone raves about it. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:Pentxuser;aol.com] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 03:18 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wideangle Dilemmas Shaun a cheaper alternative might be to look for the older Tokina 20-35/3.5??? it's an excellent lens and could be picked up much cheaper than the f2.8. It takes a 77mm filter ring as well.. Vic In a message dated 11/13/02 4:32:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Shaun, I believe that if the filter system is a critical factor in your choice, then you are picking the Tokina. The FA *24 hood will not fit a 77mm filter. I just tried it - no go. Having used both the FA *24 and the Tokina, the Pentax is one sweet lens. The Tokina is no slouch either, but flare control is not nearly as good. Do be cautious with polarizing at 24mm or wider. You might end up with some banding in the sky.
RE: Wideangle Dilemmas
I'm not sure how all these lenses stack up either Scott, but I know that the FA* is pretty good (as indeed are the others). I have got rid of most of my 52mm filters, as I now use a predominantly 77mm set. The 77mm sound like they can be used on the FA*, but this is not the sole reason for purchasing this lens. Mainly, I am interested in outright performance. If it doesn't perform up to my expectations, I will look at something else. However, all the indications are that this is a cracker of a lens. Cheers Shaun Canning Archaeology Department La Trobe University, Bundoora, VIC, 3086, Australia. Ph: 0414-967 644 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Scott Nelson [mailto:senelson;interchange.ubc.ca] Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2002 03:54 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Wideangle Dilemmas Shaun, You might want to consider looking for a used Pentax K 24/2.8 or A 24/2.8. I have the former, and it's quite good and quite small. I can't say how it stacks up against the FA* 24mm, but it take 52mm filters in case you already have some that size. -Scott On Wed, 2002-11-13 at 14:07, Shaun Canning wrote: Thanks Bruce. I am truly torn on this. I know the Tokina's are all pretty good lenses as I have three other ATX-Pro series lenses, and am generally very happy with them. I also know from my research that the FA*24mm is going to be a brilliant lens. I am still not convinced on the Tokina by any means, and may still go with the FA*. The difference in price between the FA* and the Tokina averages about $150.00 USD. That more that pays for the extra 2 or 3 filters I would carry (circ.pol, Grad ND, and an 81a probably). The question is whether I want to cart around duplicate filters or not.
Re: Opinions requested: How good is the 645 A-35mm
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 19:49:37 -0500 From: Mark Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] Michel Adam wrote: In search of the list wisdom... I am considering enabling me with a 35mm wide for my 645, and would like to get the views of the list users who have used this manual focus lens: How good is it wide open? It and the 300/4 are my favorites for the P645. I usually use it at f8 or f11 so really can't say how it does wide open. Warren __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site http://webhosting.yahoo.com
