date:20110126

Looks great Adam.  Double thumbs up.

On Jan 25, 11:14 pm, Ad Noyce adamab...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey all,

 Thanks for the input on front racks.  My setup now includes a mini front
 rack for the loafer and fenders:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905387@N04/5388732538/in/photostream/

 Thanks gang,
 Adam

 On Monday, January 10, 2011 9:10:43 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

  Tubus are indeed fine racks... My only gripe with my Tubus Logo was
  that the top (main) platform was very narrow, compared to the Nitto
  Big Rack.  Anything I put on the Logo seemed tippy, and unstable.  I
  don't understand where Tubus is coming from with this design; in fact
  I believe you build the rack platform to be as wide as possible
  without it becoming heavy or unwieldy.

  On Jan 10, 10:14 am, hobie moho...@yahoo.com wrote:
   Don't forget Tubus in stainless still. Tubus might be stronger or more
   rigid.

   On Jan 7, 1:54 am, Adam adam...@gmail.com wrote:

Thought I'd use the rebate to throw on a front rack...

Could anyone speak to whether the Nitto Two-Strut Top Rack is
compatible with canti brakes?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-two-strut-top-rack/20-190

I was planning to sit the small loafer up front...so then any reason
I'd choose the Two-Strut, which seems to manage a good amount of
weight,  v. the Mini Front Rack, which handles a smaller load and has
one strut?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mini-front-nitto/20-020

Concerned about weight in the front, especially when I'm on longish
rides--frequent biking in the Oakland and Berkeley hills and it can be
plenty windy.

Any thoughts appreciated--

Best,
Adam- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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RE: [RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

2011-01-26 Thread jim phillips

Beautiful! Great job.

JimP

 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 06:33:59 -0800
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks
 From: tapebu...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 Looks great Adam. Double thumbs up.

 On Jan 25, 11:14 pm, Ad Noyce adamab...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hey all,

  Thanks for the input on front racks.  My setup now includes a mini front
  rack for the loafer and fenders:

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905387@N04/5388732538/in/photostream/

  Thanks gang,
  Adam

  On Monday, January 10, 2011 9:10:43 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

   Tubus are indeed fine racks... My only gripe with my Tubus Logo was
   that the top (main) platform was very narrow, compared to the Nitto
   Big Rack.  Anything I put on the Logo seemed tippy, and unstable.  I
   don't understand where Tubus is coming from with this design; in fact
   I believe you build the rack platform to be as wide as possible
   without it becoming heavy or unwieldy.

   On Jan 10, 10:14 am, hobie moho...@yahoo.com wrote:
Don't forget Tubus in stainless still. Tubus might be stronger or more
rigid.

On Jan 7, 1:54 am, Adam adam...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thought I'd use the rebate to throw on a front rack...

 Could anyone speak to whether the Nitto Two-Strut Top Rack is
 compatible with canti brakes?

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-two-strut-top-rack/20-190

 I was planning to sit the small loafer up front...so then any reason
 I'd choose the Two-Strut, which seems to manage a good amount of
 weight,  v. the Mini Front Rack, which handles a smaller load and has
 one strut?

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mini-front-nitto/20-020

 Concerned about weight in the front, especially when I'm on longish
 rides--frequent biking in the Oakland and Berkeley hills and it can be
 plenty windy.

 Any thoughts appreciated--

 Best,
 Adam- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread Earl Grey

I used to have a mid-to-high end mini U-lock from Kryptonite
(something 2000), and the smallest SOMA U-lock. The Soma is slightly
bigger, and thus gets around more posts, and works better with bikes
that have more space between front tire and downtube than racers, but
still fits in a pants' back pocket.

BUT the biggest reason I much prefer the SOMA is that after the Bic
Pen debacle, which I heard about only a few months after the fact,
Kryptonite told me tough sh*t, no more replacements, while SOMA let
me buy a new cross beam with 3 new keys for $5. Last I checked, they
were still selling the upgrade crossbeams. What a great, Rivish
solution to the problem!

Here in Thailand I just lock the front wheel to the frame. In the US I
lock the rear wheel to a post like Sheldon, and if I park it longer I
remove the front wheel and lock it with the U lock as well, though I
think my new fenders may make that awkward.


Gernot


On Jan 26, 5:23 am, jsk jeff...@lightsideps.com wrote:
 I use a Kryptonite NY Fahgettaboudit, which, is too small for most
 street poles. Because of this I just use it to lock the frame to
 whatever I can get it to fit around. I combine that with a pair of VO
 Anti-Theft Skewers (a great bargain at $15.00) and a 4' Kryptonite
 cable just for securing my saddle (if I'm feeling paranoid).

 I look at it this way:

 1. Think Positive
 2. If the man with the van and power tools is coming for your bicycle
 then, well, it's all over at that point no matter what you do.

 And, btw, I'm in New York City.

 jsk

 On Jan 25, 1:56 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:



  So, still too darn cold outside for me but dreaming of spring.  As my
  Hillborne is my first 'nice' bike in forever i've been thinking about
  bike lock options strategies.  I'm asking the collective because part
  of me things, hey this is a nice looking bike better protect it.
  and another part of me is saying hey, this ain't no go-fast flashy
  bike, it's not a target.  so i'm trying to resolve how much i should
  really worry about locking it up, strategies etc.

  In the past i've always just used a simple cable lock, but that's been
  on my cruiser (which while it looks really nice, i didn't consider it
  a theft risk).  As my Hillborne has a few expensive things on it (phil
  rear wheel, nitto racks, etc) i'm a little more inclined to be more
  careful, so what are people's approaches?  U-lock the rear wheel+bike
  to post and then cable to the front wheel?  dual u-locks?  Please keep
  in mind that i need to carry all the locks as well so something like a
  kryptonite nyc chain lock is out of the question.

  If it helps this is for around town riding and that would mostly be in
  and around Washington DC but mostly the suburbs of DC.

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

2011-01-26 Thread jsk

Hey Adam,

Does the Mini Front rack attach to your front fender?

jsk

On Jan 26, 2:14 am, Ad Noyce adamab...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey all,

 Thanks for the input on front racks.  My setup now includes a mini front
 rack for the loafer and fenders:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905387@N04/5388732538/in/photostream/

 Thanks gang,
 Adam



 On Monday, January 10, 2011 9:10:43 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

  Tubus are indeed fine racks... My only gripe with my Tubus Logo was
  that the top (main) platform was very narrow, compared to the Nitto
  Big Rack.  Anything I put on the Logo seemed tippy, and unstable.  I
  don't understand where Tubus is coming from with this design; in fact
  I believe you build the rack platform to be as wide as possible
  without it becoming heavy or unwieldy.

  On Jan 10, 10:14 am, hobie moho...@yahoo.com wrote:
   Don't forget Tubus in stainless still. Tubus might be stronger or more
   rigid.

   On Jan 7, 1:54 am, Adam adam...@gmail.com wrote:

Thought I'd use the rebate to throw on a front rack...

Could anyone speak to whether the Nitto Two-Strut Top Rack is
compatible with canti brakes?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-two-strut-top-rack/20-190

I was planning to sit the small loafer up front...so then any reason
I'd choose the Two-Strut, which seems to manage a good amount of
weight,  v. the Mini Front Rack, which handles a smaller load and has
one strut?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mini-front-nitto/20-020

Concerned about weight in the front, especially when I'm on longish
rides--frequent biking in the Oakland and Berkeley hills and it can be
plenty windy.

Any thoughts appreciated--

Best,
Adam- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

jsk

The Nitto Mini Front does have a threaded boss on the underside of the
rack platform.  I drilled out my fender there and attached it.  It
looks like Adam might want to use a spacer at that spot to maintain
his fender lines.

FWIW, the Mark's Rack does not have that threaded boss on the
underside of the platform.

On Jan 26, 6:42 am, jsk jeff...@lightsideps.com wrote:
 Hey Adam,

 Does the Mini Front rack attach to your front fender?

 jsk

 On Jan 26, 2:14 am, Ad Noyce adamab...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey all,

  Thanks for the input on front racks.  My setup now includes a mini front
  rack for the loafer and fenders:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905387@N04/5388732538/in/photostream/

  Thanks gang,
  Adam

  On Monday, January 10, 2011 9:10:43 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

   Tubus are indeed fine racks... My only gripe with my Tubus Logo was
   that the top (main) platform was very narrow, compared to the Nitto
   Big Rack.  Anything I put on the Logo seemed tippy, and unstable.  I
   don't understand where Tubus is coming from with this design; in fact
   I believe you build the rack platform to be as wide as possible
   without it becoming heavy or unwieldy.

   On Jan 10, 10:14 am, hobie moho...@yahoo.com wrote:
Don't forget Tubus in stainless still. Tubus might be stronger or more
rigid.

On Jan 7, 1:54 am, Adam adam...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thought I'd use the rebate to throw on a front rack...

 Could anyone speak to whether the Nitto Two-Strut Top Rack is
 compatible with canti brakes?

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-two-strut-top-rack/20-190

 I was planning to sit the small loafer up front...so then any reason
 I'd choose the Two-Strut, which seems to manage a good amount of
 weight,  v. the Mini Front Rack, which handles a smaller load and has
 one strut?

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mini-front-nitto/20-020

 Concerned about weight in the front, especially when I'm on longish
 rides--frequent biking in the Oakland and Berkeley hills and it can be
 plenty windy.

 Any thoughts appreciated--

 Best,
 Adam- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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[RBW] SKS Lonboard fenders

I saw these in beige on a SH when I was RBWHQ last Sept, they looked
nice. They are longer than the standard SKS P45s. I realize some
people prefer Honjos or Bethouds. I've used Berthouds and they're
great but I don't mind SKS fenders and find them a bit easier to set-
up. I was at the Universal website and saw them listed although not
available. I'm sure RBW will be stocking them soon. Anyway, something
to consider if you're looking for fenders. I bet the beige ones would
look nice on a bike with a cream accents/headtube like a Hilsen.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39107category=698

--mike

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Re: [RBW] SKS Lonboard fenders

2011-01-26 Thread Seth Vidal

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 10:27 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I saw these in beige on a SH when I was RBWHQ last Sept, they looked
 nice. They are longer than the standard SKS P45s. I realize some
 people prefer Honjos or Bethouds. I've used Berthouds and they're
 great but I don't mind SKS fenders and find them a bit easier to set-
 up. I was at the Universal website and saw them listed although not
 available. I'm sure RBW will be stocking them soon. Anyway, something
 to consider if you're looking for fenders. I bet the beige ones would
 look nice on a bike with a cream accents/headtube like a Hilsen.

 http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39107category=698


hmm - I've not seen those - they look very interesting.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread Michael_S

Beautiful bikes Chris. I have always had a passion for the older black
Competitions. The bar on the Raleigh looks very interesting, what kind
is it¿ ( i can type  the ? upsidedown because Im currently vactioning
in the Yucatan with my wife) The 3 speed hub sounds pretty cool too.
Velocult is a great shop, Ive been these a few times and just got one
of the new wool jerseys, for some reason they dropped the San Diego
from the jersey though.

Im missing riding being down here, but the white sand and baby blue
water at 80F is fantastic.

Mike

On 26 ene, 07:19, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 Very nice bike, Chris.  I love the color.  You will love the Paul's
 breaks, easy set up, great control.  I liked them so much on my tandem
 that I bought a set for my Rambouillet.  Two questions.  I see that
 the front fender stay is nearly horizontal.  I installed the same
 fluted Honjos on my Ram that way and got considerable TCO.  I moved
 the stay down a couple of inches and solved about 90% of that.  What's
 your experience with TCO on the fendered Rodeo?  Also, what's the
 crank  ring set up?

 For a while I made all my bikes a  black free zone, then a Shimano
 free zone (after quite a few negative experiences) but now I take a
 more judicious approach.  I love my White cranks, black and all; and I
 have to say my new Ultegra RD 6700 is the best shifting derailler I
 have used in 30+ years of riding.

 Anyway, enjoy the ride.  I love my Ram as much today as I did when I
 bought it - six or seven years ago.  Wish the same for you.

 michael

 On Jan 25, 7:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  Thanks to Sky, Tom, Anthony, and the rest of the Velo Cult team for
  their amazing service as San Diego County's premier bike shop which
  caters to everybody except the mainstream - which means we fit right
  in! Today they have featured two of my Rough Riding bikes, and their
  recent work on them, on their blog:

 http://www.velocult.com/blog/post/raleigh_competition_rivendell_roadeo

  Click on over to their always fascinating blog which is always VERY
  well illustrated with incredible photography. Today their blog
  features my 1983 Raleigh Competition, which Tom outfitted with a 3-
  Speed Fixed Wheel set-up, and my 2010 Rivendell Roadeo, on which Sky
  installed hammer Honjo fenders and Challenge Paris-Roubaix 700x29
  tyres. They do superb work and are great people. And don't my bikes
  look as awesome as they ride??? (I'll be riding that Roadeo in a 300km
  brevet this Saturday, from Moorpark to Santa Barbara and back.)

  Velo Cult is located in the South Park area of San Diego, just a bit
  south of University Avenue and west of the 805, in a really neat
  neighborhood with a great restaurant next door (Whistle Stop Bar) and
  a classic coffee shop (Rebecca's) on the corner. Velo Cult often show
  films or have other social events at their shop in the evenings,. They
  are a driving force behind the San Diego Tweed Ride and they also
  created the San Diego Bike Commuter online forum and the
  SDBikeCommuter.com Discount Program through which local merchants give
  discounts to customers who arrive by bicycle.

  Related links:http://www.sdbikecommuter.com/
  andhttp://www.sdbikecommuter.com/find_businesses/

  - Chris Kostman
  La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com- Ocultar texto 
  de la cita -

 - Mostrar texto de la cita -

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

Yet another quintessential Rivendell! Beautiful set-up Adam. Glad you
went with the Nitto rack. I love and trust Nitto products. I feel
they're worth the cost.

--mike

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[RBW] Chain L 5 over boeshield t-9

2011-01-26 Thread CCX

Hello,

I am tired of sounding like a flock of birds every three or so
rides.

Have any of you used chain-L 5? I was wondering if it was cool to put
in on over a chain that has had t-9 on it.  Some other lubes turn to
tar over t-9 when I used a friends lube during a trip.  Normally I
clean the chain with citra-solve before lubing, but in an emergency, I
have put on different lubes (think tri flo) and the t-9 combo reacts
funny.

Also how clean does a chain-L 5 lubed chain stay? I like the dry waxy
finish of t-9, but I have had to apply it quite a bit this year it
seems.  I wonder if something in the formulation changed?






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[RBW] Re: Nitto Front Racks

2011-01-26 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean

Very nice setup.

Historically I have tended to have more cargo weight in the rear than
in the front on my bike. However, lately I've been mixing it up more.
And sometimes going with heavy front weighting.

One thing I've been very pleased about is that the Hillborne just
plain doesn't seem to care a lot about how I ride it, including where
the weight is. Yeah, I can tell when I have a loaded BarSack on my
handlebars which are a couple inches above my saddle. And I can tell
when I have panniers and a stuffed SaddleSack Medium. And I can tell
when I have a ShopSack Large in back and a ShopSack Medium in front,
both in baskets.

But the Hillborne is a Country Bike. It deals. So it is appropriate
here to apply what seems an oft-invoked-by-Mr.-Petersen principle:
It's different. It's fine. You get used to it in about 10 minutes /
miles / shifts / rides / what-have-you.

Couple questions:

Is that a standard Hillborne paint job? I've seen several with a
contrasting head tube in photos but more often see them with same-
color head tubes. It looks really good.

Those are some *long* fenders. Are those Honjos? Is *that* how long
Honjo fenders just are?

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Jan 26, 1:14 am, Ad Noyce adamab...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey all,

 Thanks for the input on front racks.  My setup now includes a mini front
 rack for the loafer and fenders:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905387@N04/5388732538/in/photostream/

 Thanks gang,
 Adam

 On Monday, January 10, 2011 9:10:43 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

  Tubus are indeed fine racks... My only gripe with my Tubus Logo was
  that the top (main) platform was very narrow, compared to the Nitto
  Big Rack.  Anything I put on the Logo seemed tippy, and unstable.  I
  don't understand where Tubus is coming from with this design; in fact
  I believe you build the rack platform to be as wide as possible
  without it becoming heavy or unwieldy.

  On Jan 10, 10:14 am, hobie moho...@yahoo.com wrote:
   Don't forget Tubus in stainless still. Tubus might be stronger or more
   rigid.

   On Jan 7, 1:54 am, Adam adam...@gmail.com wrote:

Thought I'd use the rebate to throw on a front rack...

Could anyone speak to whether the Nitto Two-Strut Top Rack is
compatible with canti brakes?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-two-strut-top-rack/20-190

I was planning to sit the small loafer up front...so then any reason
I'd choose the Two-Strut, which seems to manage a good amount of
weight,  v. the Mini Front Rack, which handles a smaller load and has
one strut?

   http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/mini-front-nitto/20-020

Concerned about weight in the front, especially when I'm on longish
rides--frequent biking in the Oakland and Berkeley hills and it can be
plenty windy.

Any thoughts appreciated--

Best,
Adam- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Chain L 5 over boeshield t-9

2011-01-26 Thread Patrick in VT



On Jan 26, 10:05 am, CCX chive...@gmail.com wrote:

 Have any of you used chain-L 5?

I've been using it for a little over a year now.  at the end of the
day, it's just lube - but it lasts a really long time.  in my
experience, it's key to start with a very clean chain, so I wouldn't
apply over the t-9.  it takes some time to completely work it's way
into the chain and is easier to apply and wipe down off the bike - if
you apply it on the bike, it can get messy.  a little goes a long way
and you'll have a real mess on your hands if you go overboard with it.

 Also how clean does a chain-L 5 lubed chain stay?

be diligent about wiping away excess after application and it will
accumulate a slight film road dust/dirt, but not much.  it will stay
that clean for a very long time.  it also makes your drivetrain
incredibly quiet for a long time.

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[RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

If I remember correctly they appeared to be sturdier, thicker
(heavier?) than the standard SKS fenders.

--mike

On Jan 26, 7:33 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 10:27 AM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
  I saw these in beige on a SH when I was RBWHQ last Sept, they looked
  nice. They are longer than the standard SKS P45s. I realize some
  people prefer Honjos or Bethouds. I've used Berthouds and they're
  great but I don't mind SKS fenders and find them a bit easier to set-
  up. I was at the Universal website and saw them listed although not
  available. I'm sure RBW will be stocking them soon. Anyway, something
  to consider if you're looking for fenders. I bet the beige ones would
  look nice on a bike with a cream accents/headtube like a Hilsen.

 http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39107;...

 hmm - I've not seen those - they look very interesting.

 -sv

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[RBW] SFR Pt. Reyes Lighouse 200K report

2011-01-26 Thread Esteban

My brother and I drove up for the Lighthouse ride, and saw a few of
you.  While I rode my Ebisu, my brother was on his Romulus.  Lots of
Rivs out there.  Jay and Aaron on the Hilsen/Saluki respectively, Tom
on his do-all Atlantis, and a bunch of other folks from the list.
You'll spot a few in the photos...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625896137764/

Report:  http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/out-to-the-lighthouse/

I love riding with SF Randonneurs, as there's a critical mass of folks
who seem to make space for enjoying the ride, sitting down for a meal,
great camaraderie -- not just hammering through for the best time.
Very Riv-ish.

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

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[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread XO-1.org Rough Riders

Mike, the bars on my Raleigh Competition 3-Speed Fixed Wheel are
track bars from Eighth-Inch: http://www.eighthinch.com/track_bars.html

I was going for a Path Racer kind of set-up. I haven't decided if I
like the bars yet, or not. They feel great in the drops. I want really
shallow drops because it's not always as comfortable to get down deep
and low on a fixed gear bike for a long period of time. But of course
I've given up having nice, wide tops for the uphills and cruising
around town. Also, now that the adjustable stem has allowed me to dial
in the reach I like, I may install one of my lugged Nitto stems with
the longer quill, so that I can get the bars higher. But then if I do
that, I may go ahead and put on some Nitto Dream bars, at which
point I'd probably have to get rid of the non-aero brake levers!
See what a cascading effect just one change can have??? Also, I am
installing Challenge Paris-Roubaix tyres on this bike this weekend. I
just love them on my Roadeo and they will also cushion the harsher
ride one gets on a fixed set-up. Plus the tan sidewalls will look more
appropriate on this classic ride. when it's all done I will post a
full slideshow with lots of comments and details.

- Chris Kostman
http://www.XO-1.org
http://www.adventurecorps.com

On Jan 26, 7:45 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 Beautiful bikes Chris. I have always had a passion for the older black
 Competitions. The bar on the Raleigh looks very interesting, what kind
 is it¿ ( i can type  the ? upsidedown because Im currently vactioning
 in the Yucatan with my wife) The 3 speed hub sounds pretty cool too.
 Velocult is a great shop, Ive been these a few times and just got one
 of the new wool jerseys, for some reason they dropped the San Diego
 from the jersey though.

 Im missing riding being down here, but the white sand and baby blue
 water at 80F is fantastic.

 Mike

 On 26 ene, 07:19, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

  Very nice bike, Chris.  I love the color.  You will love the Paul's
  breaks, easy set up, great control.  I liked them so much on my tandem
  that I bought a set for my Rambouillet.  Two questions.  I see that
  the front fender stay is nearly horizontal.  I installed the same
  fluted Honjos on my Ram that way and got considerable TCO.  I moved
  the stay down a couple of inches and solved about 90% of that.  What's
  your experience with TCO on the fendered Rodeo?  Also, what's the
  crank  ring set up?

  For a while I made all my bikes a  black free zone, then a Shimano
  free zone (after quite a few negative experiences) but now I take a
  more judicious approach.  I love my White cranks, black and all; and I
  have to say my new Ultegra RD 6700 is the best shifting derailler I
  have used in 30+ years of riding.

  Anyway, enjoy the ride.  I love my Ram as much today as I did when I
  bought it - six or seven years ago.  Wish the same for you.

  michael

  On Jan 25, 7:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
  wrote:

   Thanks to Sky, Tom, Anthony, and the rest of the Velo Cult team for
   their amazing service as San Diego County's premier bike shop which
   caters to everybody except the mainstream - which means we fit right
   in! Today they have featured two of my Rough Riding bikes, and their
   recent work on them, on their blog:

  http://www.velocult.com/blog/post/raleigh_competition_rivendell_roadeo

   Click on over to their always fascinating blog which is always VERY
   well illustrated with incredible photography. Today their blog
   features my 1983 Raleigh Competition, which Tom outfitted with a 3-
   Speed Fixed Wheel set-up, and my 2010 Rivendell Roadeo, on which Sky
   installed hammer Honjo fenders and Challenge Paris-Roubaix 700x29
   tyres. They do superb work and are great people. And don't my bikes
   look as awesome as they ride??? (I'll be riding that Roadeo in a 300km
   brevet this Saturday, from Moorpark to Santa Barbara and back.)

   Velo Cult is located in the South Park area of San Diego, just a bit
   south of University Avenue and west of the 805, in a really neat
   neighborhood with a great restaurant next door (Whistle Stop Bar) and
   a classic coffee shop (Rebecca's) on the corner. Velo Cult often show
   films or have other social events at their shop in the evenings,. They
   are a driving force behind the San Diego Tweed Ride and they also
   created the San Diego Bike Commuter online forum and the
   SDBikeCommuter.com Discount Program through which local merchants give
   discounts to customers who arrive by bicycle.

   Related links:http://www.sdbikecommuter.com/
   andhttp://www.sdbikecommuter.com/find_businesses/

   - Chris Kostman
   La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com-Ocultar 
   texto de la cita -

  - Mostrar texto de la cita -

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[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread XO-1.org Rough Riders

Hi Rob

I've been riding all those same roads since my first double century in
1983. Up through the 80s, including when I raced RAAM in 1987, nobody
had a lower gear than 42x23. We sneered at C-Record when it came out
with a 39 tooth small ring. Eventually I got older, grew out of my
skinny teenager body, and started riding up much steeper climbs (Santa
Monica Mountains, for ex) and started running a 39 tooth front with a
25, then 26, then 27, and then finally a 28 largest rear cog.

Nowadays I run a 39/48 in front (or 38/48 on some cranks) and 11/28 in
rear. I can get up anything on that 39/28 low gear, including the vast
majority of the Rough Riding adventures in which I partake. I'm not a
fan of triple cranks and only have them on my two mountain bikes and
mountain bike tandem. I don't like compact doubles, either, because
the jump is so wide between, for example, 34 to 48.

- Chris Kostman
La Jolla, CA
http://www.XO-1.org
http://www.adventurecorps.com

On Jan 25, 8:41 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 Chris,
 it should be a really fun ride.  I have done many of the pieces of the
 route, but never all at once they way it was put together for this
 brevet.  I know you are a strong rider, but put some thought intio
 your gear range, there are some pretty serious hills thrown in there,
 mostly in the middle.  Casitas pass has taken me by suprise with the
 lack of breeze and steepness, it can get hot and long on the back side
 of the lake, even on days when it is cool everywhere else.  I would
 pack layers and have a few extra teeth in the rear jus in case.

 I was thinking about doing this ride as it is the closest to my home,
 but 300k on this route is not where my fitness is at the moment, maybe
 I will see you guys out there though I hope to be riding in the mid
 day.

 Rob

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[RBW] 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread NME

Hi All,

This is sort of a goldilocks question and a little bit rambling, so
please bear with me!

I just put a deposit down on my first Rivendell, an AHH.  My PBH (81)
suggests a 54cm (650b).  I test rode a 54, but for some reason, it
didn't feel quite right -- a little twitchy.  There are about six
thousand possible reasons for that:  I had never ridden 650b (only
27), the standover (78.6) was a centimeter shorter than I was used
to, I hadn't ridden drop bars in 8 years, and the stem seemed very
high.  Overall, it was a great ride, but somehow not perfect.  Besides
that, the frame looked (visually, psychologically) too small, somehow.

They didn't have any 56cm's built up, so I tried a too-big 57cm
(700c).  Visually, it looks more like the right size, even if my PB
was touching the top tube (83cm standover) when in bare feet. The ride
felt more stable, even if the top-tube was too long.  Jay suggested
that it was perhaps because of the longer wheel base on the 57.

It's hard for me to explain why the 57 felt better than the 54: was it
the stem height?  The longer wheel base on the 57?  The larger wheel
size, which is closer to what I am used to?  The larger frame?  Or was
it purely psychological because the 54 looked small?

So now I'm left with a choice:  the 55cm (700c) or the 56cm (650b).
The standover is virtually identical for both, halfway in between the
54 and the 57.

I've never owned a bike with either wheel size, so they are both a
little abstract for me right now.  I know there have been a lot of
discussions on this topic before, and this group encouraged at least
one person to go with the 650b size.

I'm actually leaning a little toward the 55cm 700c because this bike
might travel with me to Russia at some point, and I'm not sure about
the availability of 650b there, and because I am wondering if it was
the longer wheel base that made the 57 feel better to me.  But I'd
rather have the right bike, and if that's a 650b bike, then so be it.
This would all be easier if I could ride both side by side, but that's
not possible right now.

What are your impressions about how the two wheel sizes ride
differently?  Any insight you might have would be great.

Thanks so much!
Nicole

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[RBW] PCH Rando Route

2011-01-26 Thread rperks

For the curious here is a link to the route:
http://ridewithgps.com/routes/18958
close to 9200 feet of climbing, multiple 5-10% pitches, sustained.
The views are incredible, if you have the time and legs it is going to
be a great ride.  I would have to break it into at leat 2 or 3 rides.
Lesson learned, never let Chris get you in a scissor hold, he and
those that do rides like this could probably crush you

Rob

On Jan 26, 9:05 am, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hi Rob

 I've been riding all those same roads since my first double century in
 1983. Up through the 80s, including when I raced RAAM in 1987, nobody
 had a lower gear than 42x23. We sneered at C-Record when it came out
 with a 39 tooth small ring. Eventually I got older, grew out of my
 skinny teenager body, and started riding up much steeper climbs (Santa
 Monica Mountains, for ex) and started running a 39 tooth front with a
 25, then 26, then 27, and then finally a 28 largest rear cog.

 Nowadays I run a 39/48 in front (or 38/48 on some cranks) and 11/28 in
 rear. I can get up anything on that 39/28 low gear, including the vast
 majority of the Rough Riding adventures in which I partake. I'm not a
 fan of triple cranks and only have them on my two mountain bikes and
 mountain bike tandem. I don't like compact doubles, either, because
 the jump is so wide between, for example, 34 to 48.

 - Chris Kostman
 La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com

 On Jan 25, 8:41 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:



  Chris,
  it should be a really fun ride.  I have done many of the pieces of the
  route, but never all at once they way it was put together for this
  brevet.  I know you are a strong rider, but put some thought intio
  your gear range, there are some pretty serious hills thrown in there,
  mostly in the middle.  Casitas pass has taken me by suprise with the
  lack of breeze and steepness, it can get hot and long on the back side
  of the lake, even on days when it is cool everywhere else.  I would
  pack layers and have a few extra teeth in the rear jus in case.

  I was thinking about doing this ride as it is the closest to my home,
  but 300k on this route is not where my fitness is at the moment, maybe
  I will see you guys out there though I hope to be riding in the mid
  day.

  Rob- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

2011-01-26 Thread rperks

I have also heard reports that these have a more rounded profile,
similar to the Berthoud models, but have not seen them in the flesh
yet.  Unfortunately the images on universal seem to be computer
generated.  These could be just the ticket for the roadeo if I had not
bought into the planet bikes fenders a couple months ago.

On Jan 26, 7:27 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I saw these in beige on a SH when I was RBWHQ last Sept, they looked
 nice. They are longer than the standard SKS P45s. I realize some
 people prefer Honjos or Bethouds. I've used Berthouds and they're
 great but I don't mind SKS fenders and find them a bit easier to set-
 up. I was at the Universal website and saw them listed although not
 available. I'm sure RBW will be stocking them soon. Anyway, something
 to consider if you're looking for fenders. I bet the beige ones would
 look nice on a bike with a cream accents/headtube like a Hilsen.

 http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=39107;...

 --mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

2011-01-26 Thread Seth Vidal

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 1:14 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 I have also heard reports that these have a more rounded profile,
 similar to the Berthoud models, but have not seen them in the flesh
 yet.  Unfortunately the images on universal seem to be computer
 generated.  These could be just the ticket for the roadeo if I had not
 bought into the planet bikes fenders a couple months ago.


I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
said they have been discontinued.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread Patrick in VT

On Jan 26, 12:21 pm, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:

 What are your impressions about how the two wheel sizes ride
 differently?  Any insight you might have would be great.

for all intents and purposes, the bike itself isn't going to ride
differently because of the wheel size.  650b has some great options
for wide tires, so if you require the absolute best ride quality out
of tire that is more than 35mm or so, 650b might make sense - but,
given what you shared, I doubt it.

anyway, fit should be your first priority, so go with whatever size
will allow you to achieve the best fit.  and whichever you choose,
you'll need to spend some time dialing everything in to acheive a ride
that feels just right.  that can take some time.  small differences
in handlebars/stem height/saddle placement/etc. can make a big
difference in how a bike feels.  a spin around the block doesn't cut
it.

good luck and congrats on the new ride.

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-26 Thread Ryan

As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

Regards,
Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:
 How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
 from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
 kickstand plate and range of sizes.

 In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
 builder?

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[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread Philip Williamson

Beautiful bikes, Chris.
I was more into the Raleigh than the Roadeo, too, and I'm glad Mike
asked about the bars. The Rough Rider decal and headbadge, on the
Roadeo, though! Too cool.
I look forward to the slideshow of these bikes, and how you like the
s3x hub.

I'm not likely to get down to San Diego any time soon, but I really
like the Velo Cult blog.
 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Jan 26, 11:55 am, XO-1.org Rough Riders
adventureco...@gmail.com wrote:
 Mike, the bars on my Raleigh Competition 3-Speed Fixed Wheel are
 track bars from Eighth-Inch:http://www.eighthinch.com/track_bars.html

 I was going for a Path Racer kind of set-up. I haven't decided if I
 like the bars yet, or not. They feel great in the drops. I want really
 shallow drops because it's not always as comfortable to get down deep
 and low on a fixed gear bike for a long period of time. But of course
 I've given up having nice, wide tops for the uphills and cruising
 around town. Also, now that the adjustable stem has allowed me to dial
 in the reach I like, I may install one of my lugged Nitto stems with
 the longer quill, so that I can get the bars higher. But then if I do
 that, I may go ahead and put on some Nitto Dream bars, at which
 point I'd probably have to get rid of the non-aero brake levers!
 See what a cascading effect just one change can have??? Also, I am
 installing Challenge Paris-Roubaix tyres on this bike this weekend. I
 just love them on my Roadeo and they will also cushion the harsher
 ride one gets on a fixed set-up. Plus the tan sidewalls will look more
 appropriate on this classic ride. when it's all done I will post a
 full slideshow with lots of comments and details.

 - Chris Kostmanhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com

 On Jan 26, 7:45 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:







  Beautiful bikes Chris. I have always had a passion for the older black
  Competitions. The bar on the Raleigh looks very interesting, what kind
  is it¿ ( i can type  the ? upsidedown because Im currently vactioning
  in the Yucatan with my wife) The 3 speed hub sounds pretty cool too.
  Velocult is a great shop, Ive been these a few times and just got one
  of the new wool jerseys, for some reason they dropped the San Diego
  from the jersey though.

  Im missing riding being down here, but the white sand and baby blue
  water at 80F is fantastic.

  Mike

  On 26 ene, 07:19, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

   Very nice bike, Chris.  I love the color.  You will love the Paul's
   breaks, easy set up, great control.  I liked them so much on my tandem
   that I bought a set for my Rambouillet.  Two questions.  I see that
   the front fender stay is nearly horizontal.  I installed the same
   fluted Honjos on my Ram that way and got considerable TCO.  I moved
   the stay down a couple of inches and solved about 90% of that.  What's
   your experience with TCO on the fendered Rodeo?  Also, what's the
   crank  ring set up?

   For a while I made all my bikes a  black free zone, then a Shimano
   free zone (after quite a few negative experiences) but now I take a
   more judicious approach.  I love my White cranks, black and all; and I
   have to say my new Ultegra RD 6700 is the best shifting derailler I
   have used in 30+ years of riding.

   Anyway, enjoy the ride.  I love my Ram as much today as I did when I
   bought it - six or seven years ago.  Wish the same for you.

   michael

   On Jan 25, 7:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
   wrote:

Thanks to Sky, Tom, Anthony, and the rest of the Velo Cult team for
their amazing service as San Diego County's premier bike shop which
caters to everybody except the mainstream - which means we fit right
in! Today they have featured two of my Rough Riding bikes, and their
recent work on them, on their blog:

   http://www.velocult.com/blog/post/raleigh_competition_rivendell_roadeo

Click on over to their always fascinating blog which is always VERY
well illustrated with incredible photography. Today their blog
features my 1983 Raleigh Competition, which Tom outfitted with a 3-
Speed Fixed Wheel set-up, and my 2010 Rivendell Roadeo, on which Sky
installed hammer Honjo fenders and Challenge Paris-Roubaix 700x29
tyres. They do superb work and are great people. And don't my bikes
look as awesome as they ride??? (I'll be riding that Roadeo in a 300km
brevet this Saturday, from Moorpark to Santa Barbara and back.)

Velo Cult is located in the South Park area of San Diego, just a bit
south of University Avenue and west of the 805, in a really neat
neighborhood with a great restaurant next door (Whistle Stop Bar) and
a classic coffee shop (Rebecca's) on the corner. Velo Cult often show
films or have other social events at their shop in the evenings,. They
are a driving force behind the San Diego Tweed Ride and they also
created the San Diego Bike Commuter

Re: [RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread Eric Norris

I have a 48x34 crankset (Velo Orange) on one of my bikes and an a 50x34 (Campy) 
on another.  I don't find the big jump to be a drawback.  In practice, I use 
the big ring for 90% or more of my riding, switching to the small ring just for 
the steep stuff.  Once I'm in the small ring, I stay there and shift on the 
cogs, so I'm not going back and forth between rings.  

I've found the 50 and 48 big rings to be exactly right for my riding.  Like 
Chris, I use big clusters 13-28 or 13-29, which in combination with a the 48 or 
50 ring give me a great range of gears.  I get spun out a little sooner on 
ripping fast downhills, but by that time I'm already going fast enough!

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Jan 26, 2011, at 9:05 AM, XO-1.org Rough Riders wrote:

 Hi Rob
 
 I've been riding all those same roads since my first double century in
 1983. Up through the 80s, including when I raced RAAM in 1987, nobody
 had a lower gear than 42x23. We sneered at C-Record when it came out
 with a 39 tooth small ring. Eventually I got older, grew out of my
 skinny teenager body, and started riding up much steeper climbs (Santa
 Monica Mountains, for ex) and started running a 39 tooth front with a
 25, then 26, then 27, and then finally a 28 largest rear cog.
 
 Nowadays I run a 39/48 in front (or 38/48 on some cranks) and 11/28 in
 rear. I can get up anything on that 39/28 low gear, including the vast
 majority of the Rough Riding adventures in which I partake. I'm not a
 fan of triple cranks and only have them on my two mountain bikes and
 mountain bike tandem. I don't like compact doubles, either, because
 the jump is so wide between, for example, 34 to 48.
 
 - Chris Kostman
 La Jolla, CA
 http://www.XO-1.org
 http://www.adventurecorps.com
 
 On Jan 25, 8:41 pm, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 Chris,
 it should be a really fun ride.  I have done many of the pieces of the
 route, but never all at once they way it was put together for this
 brevet.  I know you are a strong rider, but put some thought intio
 your gear range, there are some pretty serious hills thrown in there,
 mostly in the middle.  Casitas pass has taken me by suprise with the
 lack of breeze and steepness, it can get hot and long on the back side
 of the lake, even on days when it is cool everywhere else.  I would
 pack layers and have a few extra teeth in the rear jus in case.
 
 I was thinking about doing this ride as it is the closest to my home,
 but 300k on this route is not where my fitness is at the moment, maybe
 I will see you guys out there though I hope to be riding in the mid
 day.
 
 Rob
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

2011-01-26 Thread Rob Harrison

Bummer! I'm very happy with my composite Berthouds on my 650b Saluki. 

( http://www.flickr.com/photos/robharrison/5337359747/in/set-72157624011191725/ 
) 

Better coverage and lighter than most other composites, and less foppish than 
metal (though I've eased into my own foppishness since;)) 

Rob in Seattle

On Jan 26, 2011, at 10:15 AM, Seth Vidal wrote:

 I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
 said they have been discontinued.

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

Nicole

It's hard for me to make a recommendation for what would be best for
you.  I was introduced to 650B last year, and I'm very happy with it.
I have a 58cm Hilsen and use it as a brevet bike.  On lousy quality
pavement it's great to be able to run a cushy tire at low pressure and
not have it weigh a ton.  It's also appealing to me to run ultra
strong rims that are super light as well (a 650B Velocity Synergy
weighs only 15 grams more than a 700C Mavic Open Pro).  A wide tire on
650B has the same total diameter as a super skinny tire on a 700C
rim.  That said, I have four bikes, 2 650B and 2 700C and would not
change the wheelsize on any of them even if I had a magic wand.

On Jan 26, 9:21 am, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi All,

 This is sort of a goldilocks question and a little bit rambling, so
 please bear with me!

 I just put a deposit down on my first Rivendell, an AHH.  My PBH (81)
 suggests a 54cm (650b).  I test rode a 54, but for some reason, it
 didn't feel quite right -- a little twitchy.  There are about six
 thousand possible reasons for that:  I had never ridden 650b (only
 27), the standover (78.6) was a centimeter shorter than I was used
 to, I hadn't ridden drop bars in 8 years, and the stem seemed very
 high.  Overall, it was a great ride, but somehow not perfect.  Besides
 that, the frame looked (visually, psychologically) too small, somehow.

 They didn't have any 56cm's built up, so I tried a too-big 57cm
 (700c).  Visually, it looks more like the right size, even if my PB
 was touching the top tube (83cm standover) when in bare feet. The ride
 felt more stable, even if the top-tube was too long.  Jay suggested
 that it was perhaps because of the longer wheel base on the 57.

 It's hard for me to explain why the 57 felt better than the 54: was it
 the stem height?  The longer wheel base on the 57?  The larger wheel
 size, which is closer to what I am used to?  The larger frame?  Or was
 it purely psychological because the 54 looked small?

 So now I'm left with a choice:  the 55cm (700c) or the 56cm (650b).
 The standover is virtually identical for both, halfway in between the
 54 and the 57.

 I've never owned a bike with either wheel size, so they are both a
 little abstract for me right now.  I know there have been a lot of
 discussions on this topic before, and this group encouraged at least
 one person to go with the 650b size.

 I'm actually leaning a little toward the 55cm 700c because this bike
 might travel with me to Russia at some point, and I'm not sure about
 the availability of 650b there, and because I am wondering if it was
 the longer wheel base that made the 57 feel better to me.  But I'd
 rather have the right bike, and if that's a 650b bike, then so be it.
 This would all be easier if I could ride both side by side, but that's
 not possible right now.

 What are your impressions about how the two wheel sizes ride
 differently?  Any insight you might have would be great.

 Thanks so much!
 Nicole

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[RBW] Re: SFR Pt. Reyes Lighouse 200K report

Nicely done.  It was nice to meet you pre-ride.  I called to you
heading the other way after the Lighthouse Control.  It was a perfecto
day.

On Jan 26, 8:51 am, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
 My brother and I drove up for the Lighthouse ride, and saw a few of
 you.  While I rode my Ebisu, my brother was on his Romulus.  Lots of
 Rivs out there.  Jay and Aaron on the Hilsen/Saluki respectively, Tom
 on his do-all Atlantis, and a bunch of other folks from the list.
 You'll spot a few in the photos...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625896137764/

 Report:  http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/out-to-the-lighthouse/

 I love riding with SF Randonneurs, as there's a critical mass of folks
 who seem to make space for enjoying the ride, sitting down for a meal,
 great camaraderie -- not just hammering through for the best time.
 Very Riv-ish.

 Esteban
 San Diego, Calif.

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread newenglandbike

I have both a 650b bike and a 700c touring bike with somewhat fat 42c
tires, and don't really notice a difference in steering response
between the two.They have similar angles and trail, and handle
very similarly. I agree that fit and comfort are going to be the
most important thing.

Another thing to consider is that there might be a bit more 'toe-
overlap' on a 55cm AHH with 700c wheels versus a 54 or 56 with 650b
tires (which will probably have none at all).


-Matt

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Re: [RBW] Re: SFR Pt. Reyes Lighouse 200K report

2011-01-26 Thread nathan spindel

Agreed, it was great ride, good company, and a wonderful day:
http://flic.kr/p/9cAUEz. Always a pleasure to ride with you,
Esteban!

Unfortunately I was still sick and in poor shape, so I bailed out at
mile 75. Looking forward to the next SFR 200K in a few weeks!

-nathan

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 11:10 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Nicely done.  It was nice to meet you pre-ride.  I called to you
 heading the other way after the Lighthouse Control.  It was a perfecto
 day.

 On Jan 26, 8:51 am, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
 My brother and I drove up for the Lighthouse ride, and saw a few of
 you.  While I rode my Ebisu, my brother was on his Romulus.  Lots of
 Rivs out there.  Jay and Aaron on the Hilsen/Saluki respectively, Tom
 on his do-all Atlantis, and a bunch of other folks from the list.
 You'll spot a few in the photos...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625896137764/

 Report:  http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/out-to-the-lighthouse/

 I love riding with SF Randonneurs, as there's a critical mass of folks
 who seem to make space for enjoying the ride, sitting down for a meal,
 great camaraderie -- not just hammering through for the best time.
 Very Riv-ish.

 Esteban
 San Diego, Calif.

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

Standover height matters somewhat, but when it comes to proper bike
fit it is pretty far down the list, unless of course your intended use
will see you standing over the top tube a lot as opposed to riding.

When I pick a bike, I look for a size that best fits my riding
position. Factors such as proper leg extension without putting the
seat post too high or low, proper handle bar reach with an average
length and height stem, and being able to mount my chosen saddle in
the middle of its rails all seem a lot more important to me than the
where the top tube is when I stand over it.

If these factors favor the 54, that may be the best choice.  If they
favor the 57, well there you are.

n.b.:  At 5'11 with an 82.5 pbh, most of my bikes have been 58s.  The
right Hilsen for me is the 59.

On Jan 26, 11:21 am, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi All,

 This is sort of a goldilocks question and a little bit rambling, so
 please bear with me!

 I just put a deposit down on my first Rivendell, an AHH.  My PBH (81)
 suggests a 54cm (650b).  I test rode a 54, but for some reason, it
 didn't feel quite right -- a little twitchy.  There are about six
 thousand possible reasons for that:  I had never ridden 650b (only
 27), the standover (78.6) was a centimeter shorter than I was used
 to, I hadn't ridden drop bars in 8 years, and the stem seemed very
 high.  Overall, it was a great ride, but somehow not perfect.  Besides
 that, the frame looked (visually, psychologically) too small, somehow.

 They didn't have any 56cm's built up, so I tried a too-big 57cm
 (700c).  Visually, it looks more like the right size, even if my PB
 was touching the top tube (83cm standover) when in bare feet. The ride
 felt more stable, even if the top-tube was too long.  Jay suggested
 that it was perhaps because of the longer wheel base on the 57.

 It's hard for me to explain why the 57 felt better than the 54: was it
 the stem height?  The longer wheel base on the 57?  The larger wheel
 size, which is closer to what I am used to?  The larger frame?  Or was
 it purely psychological because the 54 looked small?

 So now I'm left with a choice:  the 55cm (700c) or the 56cm (650b).
 The standover is virtually identical for both, halfway in between the
 54 and the 57.

 I've never owned a bike with either wheel size, so they are both a
 little abstract for me right now.  I know there have been a lot of
 discussions on this topic before, and this group encouraged at least
 one person to go with the 650b size.

 I'm actually leaning a little toward the 55cm 700c because this bike
 might travel with me to Russia at some point, and I'm not sure about
 the availability of 650b there, and because I am wondering if it was
 the longer wheel base that made the 57 feel better to me.  But I'd
 rather have the right bike, and if that's a 650b bike, then so be it.
 This would all be easier if I could ride both side by side, but that's
 not possible right now.

 What are your impressions about how the two wheel sizes ride
 differently?  Any insight you might have would be great.

 Thanks so much!
 Nicole

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[RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

 I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
 said they have been discontinued.

Oh that is a pity.  They are very nice fenders.

On Jan 26, 12:15 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 1:14 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
  I have also heard reports that these have a more rounded profile,
  similar to the Berthoud models, but have not seen them in the flesh
  yet.  Unfortunately the images on universal seem to be computer
  generated.  These could be just the ticket for the roadeo if I had not
  bought into the planet bikes fenders a couple months ago.

 I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
 said they have been discontinued.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com

Yeah, TCO is not fun...

What width tires do you want to run and what sort of surfaces will you
be riding over?   650b has a lot of choices in wide tire tires that
are still light and flexible (Pacenti, Grand Bois, Soma) while 700c is
more limited to heavier utility tires in that size (Marathons,
Paselas).  If you like the idea of wider tires, but want them to still
be zippy, go w/ the 650b.

BTW, what width tires did the 54cm bike that you tried out have?  If
they were the narrower type, maybe that would have been part of the
consideration?

On Jan 26, 11:11 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have both a 650b bike and a 700c touring bike with somewhat fat 42c
 tires, and don't really notice a difference in steering response
 between the two.    They have similar angles and trail, and handle
 very similarly.     I agree that fit and comfort are going to be the
 most important thing.

 Another thing to consider is that there might be a bit more 'toe-
 overlap' on a 55cm AHH with 700c wheels versus a 54 or 56 with 650b
 tires (which will probably have none at all).

 -Matt

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[RBW] Re: SFR Pt. Reyes Lighouse 200K report

In case there's any doubt about whether Esteban and Tavio had fun:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/onehappycog/5386506626/in/photostream/

Bovine Bakery FTW!

On Jan 26, 11:15 am, nathan spindel nath...@gmail.com wrote:
 Agreed, it was great ride, good company, and a wonderful day:
 http://flic.kr/p/9cAUEz. Always a pleasure to ride with you,
 Esteban!

 Unfortunately I was still sick and in poor shape, so I bailed out at
 mile 75. Looking forward to the next SFR 200K in a few weeks!

 -nathan

 On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 11:10 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  Nicely done.  It was nice to meet you pre-ride.  I called to you
  heading the other way after the Lighthouse Control.  It was a perfecto
  day.

  On Jan 26, 8:51 am, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
  My brother and I drove up for the Lighthouse ride, and saw a few of
  you.  While I rode my Ebisu, my brother was on his Romulus.  Lots of
  Rivs out there.  Jay and Aaron on the Hilsen/Saluki respectively, Tom
  on his do-all Atlantis, and a bunch of other folks from the list.
  You'll spot a few in the photos...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671211@N02/sets/72157625896137764/

  Report:  http://veloflaneur.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/out-to-the-lighthouse/

  I love riding with SF Randonneurs, as there's a critical mass of folks
  who seem to make space for enjoying the ride, sitting down for a meal,
  great camaraderie -- not just hammering through for the best time.
  Very Riv-ish.

  Esteban
  San Diego, Calif.

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread NME

Thanks all for your replies and advice!  I agree that it's personal
and individual, and ultimately the choice is up to me.  It's
comforting to hear from you all that there's not a lot of difference
in the way the ride feels between 700c and 650b.  I'm guessing that
the 54 didn't feel right to me because the frame was a little smaller
than what I wanted (forcing the stem and seatpost to be higher than
I'm used to).  A lot of the perfect fit, I agree, will be getting the
right saddle, pedals, bars, stem -- the little stuff that gets tweaked
along the way.

I'll use this bike mostly for commuting, but with some longer rides
and some European inn-to-inn tours.  I imagine I'll choose tires
between 32 and 38.  The bike will stay on the pavement most of the
time.  I'm in the Bay Area now, but getting ready to move to Berlin
soon, so I probably won't have much a chance to take it on the famed
California fire trails before I go.

I think that the 55 is probably the way to go, if only because it will
ease my paranoia about getting stuck in rural Belorussia with a broken
rim. As for toe-overlap, I'm not too worried about that, since it's
rarely been a problem for me so far.

It's good to hear that wheel size alone probably wasn't the issue.
This will be my only nice bike for the next several years, but if
the budget expands a few years from now, I'll definitely consider
adding a 650b to the line-up.

Thanks again for your help!

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread Mike S

I had a feeling that locking to only the wheel could be very
vulnerable, good to have my paranoia validated!

I also use the kryptonite mini on my Quickbeam, and lock the frame to
that (usually rear seat stay, main/seat stay if rack calls for it) in
addition to using a Pitlock on the front Schmidt dynowheel and
seatpost. My rear is a 6mm Phil track hub and I usually leave that
unlocked, but I may look into the previously mentioned anti-theft
skewer for solid axles. My bike is usually locked up at a college
campus with low threat potential or other very visible locations where
it doesn't stay for long.

The pitlocks are really fantastically well made and I'd highly
recommend them, despite the high price. The other cheap anti-theft
device I use by Zefal is low-quality and generally annoying (have to
turn bike upside down and tap bolt to undo). I use to use the ABUS
cable locl Riv sells, but I'm almost relieved I lost that as it may
have provided a false sense of security. The Bordo locks are
intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

On Jan 25, 9:43 pm, Mark in Melbourne mbi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I commute in Melbourne, Australia, where I think the risk of theft is
 moderate. I love the Kryptonite Mini, for its strength, size and
 weight, compared to other U locks. I used to use the Sheldon method,
 until I saw this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9fLtdZyX-A

 I think Sheldon got this one wrong, proving simultaneously that he was
 both human and a God Amongst Men.

 I also use a 6' cable through the wheels and saddle, and if the
 situation warrants, secure this with a separate padlock.

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean

Yeah, I suspect those rivets are a weak point, structurally speaking.
I can't assert that the plate-lock style (OnGuard has one and Abus has
three) lock is as good as the best systems available (take your
pick... heavy heavy chain? well-designed 1 cable lock? tiny tough U-
lock?). But... I feel okay about it. It's a trade-off between what I
am willing to carry/use vs. theft-defense.

I also agree that the pitlocks seem great. Again, they aren't
invulnerable. But you're talking about going to a lot of trouble to
take just a wheel, even a SON or Phil wheel.

And I agree that the Zefal turn-it-over things are not all that. I
used them for a couple of months before I came to the conclusion that
turning a bike over is a *helluva* lot of trouble if you care at all
about anything attached to your handlebar. Plus they didn't always
work readily, especially when it's cold outside. A couple of times I
felt like it simply wasn't going to work after minutes of smacking at
it. I'm more confident I'll have my pitlock pit and a 14mm wrench
with me than I am that the Zefals skewer mechanisms will work at any
given time. I do *not* recommend the Zefals.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Jan 26, 2:54 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I had a feeling that locking to only the wheel could be very
 vulnerable, good to have my paranoia validated!

 I also use the kryptonite mini on my Quickbeam, and lock the frame to
 that (usually rear seat stay, main/seat stay if rack calls for it) in
 addition to using a Pitlock on the front Schmidt dynowheel and
 seatpost. My rear is a 6mm Phil track hub and I usually leave that
 unlocked, but I may look into the previously mentioned anti-theft
 skewer for solid axles. My bike is usually locked up at a college
 campus with low threat potential or other very visible locations where
 it doesn't stay for long.

 The pitlocks are really fantastically well made and I'd highly
 recommend them, despite the high price. The other cheap anti-theft
 device I use by Zefal is low-quality and generally annoying (have to
 turn bike upside down and tap bolt to undo). I use to use the ABUS
 cable locl Riv sells, but I'm almost relieved I lost that as it may
 have provided a false sense of security. The Bordo locks are
 intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

 On Jan 25, 9:43 pm, Mark in Melbourne mbi...@gmail.com wrote:

  I commute in Melbourne, Australia, where I think the risk of theft is
  moderate. I love the Kryptonite Mini, for its strength, size and
  weight, compared to other U locks. I used to use the Sheldon method,
  until I saw this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9fLtdZyX-A

  I think Sheldon got this one wrong, proving simultaneously that he was
  both human and a God Amongst Men.

  I also use a 6' cable through the wheels and saddle, and if the
  situation warrants, secure this with a separate padlock.

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

 The Bordo locks are intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

Have you held a Bordo in your hand?  It is German made industrial
strength.  Even if the thief had a high impact power tool (just
happened to be walking down the street with my pneumatic punch) the
rivets are so tough the Bordo would have to be set on something hard
in order for the punch to do anything other than knock the Bordo
around.

Abus are head and shoulders above the competition.

On Jan 26, 2:54 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I had a feeling that locking to only the wheel could be very
 vulnerable, good to have my paranoia validated!

 I also use the kryptonite mini on my Quickbeam, and lock the frame to
 that (usually rear seat stay, main/seat stay if rack calls for it) in
 addition to using a Pitlock on the front Schmidt dynowheel and
 seatpost. My rear is a 6mm Phil track hub and I usually leave that
 unlocked, but I may look into the previously mentioned anti-theft
 skewer for solid axles. My bike is usually locked up at a college
 campus with low threat potential or other very visible locations where
 it doesn't stay for long.

 The pitlocks are really fantastically well made and I'd highly
 recommend them, despite the high price. The other cheap anti-theft
 device I use by Zefal is low-quality and generally annoying (have to
 turn bike upside down and tap bolt to undo). I use to use the ABUS
 cable locl Riv sells, but I'm almost relieved I lost that as it may
 have provided a false sense of security. The Bordo locks are
 intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

 On Jan 25, 9:43 pm, Mark in Melbourne mbi...@gmail.com wrote:



  I commute in Melbourne, Australia, where I think the risk of theft is
  moderate. I love the Kryptonite Mini, for its strength, size and
  weight, compared to other U locks. I used to use the Sheldon method,
  until I saw this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9fLtdZyX-A

  I think Sheldon got this one wrong, proving simultaneously that he was
  both human and a God Amongst Men.

  I also use a 6' cable through the wheels and saddle, and if the
  situation warrants, secure this with a separate padlock.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread PATRICK MOORE

I've got various locks of various degrees of security scattered about
the larger metropolitan area, one of which is a 3' length of super
hard chain that I bought from True Value for less than $12, plus
shackle protected lock (it has bolsters that slip over the shackle to
make it hard for a bolt cutter to fit), all covered in a
(multi-patched!) section of innertube.

The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
thievery?

(The lock is currently looped and lock'd around the pedestal of an
outdoor table at our church and the lock mech has successfully
resisted about 12 mos of dirt, water, etc. -- for many months it was
looped about a tree so that the lock itself was partially buried in
the surrounding dirt.)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-26 Thread Bruce

Current Atlantis production is Waterford. Up until last year (I think), they 
came from Toyo. Toyo was the only source for Rambouillet, Saluki and 
Romulus/Redwood. AHH was blended as you suggest, and is now all Waterford. I 
think if you get them to take an order for a Legolas, it would come from 
Waterford as well. The website currently shows Bombadil, Rodeo, Atlantis, and 
Hilsen as US made (Waterford). Hunqapillar, Gomez, Foy, Amos,  Simpleone as 
Taiwan made (Maxway)





From: Ryan ryter...@mts.net
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, January 26, 2011 12:19:28 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

Regards,
Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:
 How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
 from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
 kickstand plate and range of sizes.

 In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
 builder?

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[RBW] Riv guys in Chiang-Mai

2011-01-26 Thread doug peterson

From a recent field survey, I can confirm there really are three (3)
Rivendell's in Thailand:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33786397@N03/5391092687/

Paul, Gernot  Kip have posted info on their bikes and also think
there may be some Rivendells in Bangkok (if you're out there, let us
know!).  We met at the end of my tour and was unfortunately too worn
out to go with them on their Sunday ride.

Just completed 570 miles thru northern Thailand from Chiang-Rai to the
Mekong River, then along the border to the Golden Triangle (only got a
refrigerator magnet there, nothing stronger) and back to Chiang-Mai.
High point was Doi Mea-Salong (1,200m), the climb including long
stretches of 15-20% grades (one kick to 37%), requiring plenty of
hike'n'bike.  Although intended to be a road tour, we got our share of
mixed surface in the form of multi-kilometer sections of road
construction (the clay is pretty good if dry; not so good when wet).
Conditions were generally good and drivers excellent.

In an attempt to simplify logistics, the Atlantis stayed home  I used
a rental bike that proved over-geared and under maintained.  However,
my trusty Baggins Bar Tube (never leave home without one) fits any
bike and keeps the camera and food at the ready.

Thailand is truly a wonderful country with friendly people.  With the
mix of city, country, mixed surfaces and challenging climbs, a Riv has
the versatility needed to enjoy this trip.

dougP

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-26 Thread jose

It comes down to your aesthetic sense. If you are not that much into
the details of how things look, then it doesn't matter because quality-
wise they are identical.

But if you do care about the details, then I think you'd have to look
at the specific bike to determine what you like more.

Totally subjective.

I do remember a Grant post mentioning he really liked some of the
details on the last run of Toyo Atlantis. Here it is:

http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/196

I have both a 2006 and one of these last-run 2010 Atlantii.  I like
both (a lot), but I overall I prefer the look of the 2006.  For
example, I like the curvey lugs of the 2006 more. Many people have
said they prefer the newer, pointy lugs.

Tomato, jitomate.



On Jan 26, 3:52 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Current Atlantis production is Waterford. Up until last year (I think), they
 came from Toyo. Toyo was the only source for Rambouillet, Saluki and
 Romulus/Redwood. AHH was blended as you suggest, and is now all Waterford. I
 think if you get them to take an order for a Legolas, it would come from
 Waterford as well. The website currently shows Bombadil, Rodeo, Atlantis, and
 Hilsen as US made (Waterford). Hunqapillar, Gomez, Foy, Amos,  Simpleone as
 Taiwan made (Maxway)

 
 From: Ryan ryter...@mts.net
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Wed, January 26, 2011 12:19:28 PM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

 As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
 sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
 particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
 this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
 Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

 That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
 and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
 tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

 Regards,
 Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

 On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:

  How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
  from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
  kickstand plate and range of sizes.

  In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
  builder?

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

Those hardened chains are pretty tough to cut.  After the Portland
NAHBS there was a video demonstrating how hard it is to cut thick
chain with bolt cutters.  Some of the wild and crazy Portlanders
chained their bikes on a barricade or something the hall managers
wanted to keep clear.  The video shows a security guard with big
honking bolt cutters cutting through some U-Locks as though they were
butter.  When he gets to the hardened chain he huffs and puffs but
cannot blow the chain apart.

The down side to hardened chain of course is their weight.  Your
solution is an elegant one, especially if you leave your bike
frequently some place where there is not a lot of competition at the
rack.  I've thought of doing the same here in Chicago.  It would be
great to have that level of protection without having to lug the chain
and lock around.  Problem is unless I beat other riders to the rack,
my chain will be under the wheels of a bunch of other bikes and I
would have to collect it and go looking for another lock.

On Jan 26, 5:07 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got various locks of various degrees of security scattered about
 the larger metropolitan area, one of which is a 3' length of super
 hard chain that I bought from True Value for less than $12, plus
 shackle protected lock (it has bolsters that slip over the shackle to
 make it hard for a bolt cutter to fit), all covered in a
 (multi-patched!) section of innertube.

 The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
 claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
 how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
 thievery?

 (The lock is currently looped and lock'd around the pedestal of an
 outdoor table at our church and the lock mech has successfully
 resisted about 12 mos of dirt, water, etc. -- for many months it was
 looped about a tree so that the lock itself was partially buried in
 the surrounding dirt.)

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[RBW] Riv'ish trails in Berkeley Hills/Tilden?

2011-01-26 Thread jose

Can anyone recommend some trail loops they like in the Berkeley
Hills / Tilden Park area? Swoopy fire roads, nothing technical but
still fun.

I just moved to the area (Rockridge) and I'm looking for some short
( 15 - 20 miles) jaunts out in the hills.

Last week, the weather being what it was (ie perfect) I jumped on the
bike and meant to go explore the trails around Inspiration Point.
However, I made the mistake of of going up Centennial Rd and I was
cooked by the time I got to Grizzly Peak! I turned around, and coasted
back down the hill. Ha!  I guess I'll have to drive to the trailhead
(lame) for now, until I get into better shape. I road my bike everyday
in Houston and thought I was in decent shape, but I guess I wasn't in
hills-shape.

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread PATRICK MOORE

Good to know; may just get me  a few more to scatter 'round the city.

Moving on to wholly unrelated matters -- and this is addressed to
y'all, not just to JM or MJ: riding home today on my newly Berthoud
be-fendered #3 Riv custom fixie, I stopped to piss (it's a perfectly
normal word, don't twist the knickers) in the very kindly,
CABQ-provided pissoirs at the Alameda/RG Rec Path trailhead. I arrived
with another fellow in full kit with road bike. I brazenly rode the
Riv on its 200 gram, 22 mm Turbos, over the dirt to the portapissers
and did my thing. As I was leaving, I saw fellow cyclist carrying his
bike the 60 feet or so back to the pavement of the parking lot before
he got back on it. I called out, good naturedly, It will roll! but
he didn't seem to get it. I suppose he was afraid of goatheads but
heck, my Turbos are more fragile and lighter than anything he can be
riding.

And one more thing: I've not been on a Riv for a month or so: have not
ridden much, and such riding as I've done has been on the Motobecane
and the Fargo. For the 100th time, at least, the Riv was, once again,
a revelation: fit, fit and fit, not to mention handling -- quicker
than the nicely handling Motobecane, with those tiny, 1500 gr wheels,
but a wonderful quickness. And it fit so, so so nicely, even to this
almost-56-year-old body that is so stiff that it can't get within 5
of its toes (plan to take up yoga soon, God willing). Bars 5 cm below
saddle.

Thankyou again, Grant.

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 6:44 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Those hardened chains are pretty tough to cut.  After the Portland
 NAHBS there was a video demonstrating how hard it is to cut thick
 chain with bolt cutters.  Some of the wild and crazy Portlanders
 chained their bikes on a barricade or something the hall managers
 wanted to keep clear.  The video shows a security guard with big
 honking bolt cutters cutting through some U-Locks as though they were
 butter.  When he gets to the hardened chain he huffs and puffs but
 cannot blow the chain apart.

 The down side to hardened chain of course is their weight.  Your
 solution is an elegant one, especially if you leave your bike
 frequently some place where there is not a lot of competition at the
 rack.  I've thought of doing the same here in Chicago.  It would be
 great to have that level of protection without having to lug the chain
 and lock around.  Problem is unless I beat other riders to the rack,
 my chain will be under the wheels of a bunch of other bikes and I
 would have to collect it and go looking for another lock.

 On Jan 26, 5:07 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got various locks of various degrees of security scattered about
 the larger metropolitan area, one of which is a 3' length of super
 hard chain that I bought from True Value for less than $12, plus
 shackle protected lock (it has bolsters that slip over the shackle to
 make it hard for a bolt cutter to fit), all covered in a
 (multi-patched!) section of innertube.

 The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
 claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
 how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
 thievery?

 (The lock is currently looped and lock'd around the pedestal of an
 outdoor table at our church and the lock mech has successfully
 resisted about 12 mos of dirt, water, etc. -- for many months it was
 looped about a tree so that the lock itself was partially buried in
 the surrounding dirt.)

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Riv'ish trails in Berkeley Hills/Tilden?

2011-01-26 Thread Anne Paulson

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:50 PM, jose jose.cor...@gmail.com wrote:


 Last week, the weather being what it was (ie perfect) I jumped on the
 bike and meant to go explore the trails around Inspiration Point.
 However, I made the mistake of of going up Centennial Rd and I was
 cooked by the time I got to Grizzly Peak! I turned around, and coasted
 back down the hill. Ha!  I guess I'll have to drive to the trailhead
 (lame) for now, until I get into better shape.

No no no no no no. Don't drive to the trailhead. Just use low gears,
pick less steep routes if you need to, and patiently ride up the
hills. And realize that a 15- or 20-mile hilly ride is way harder than
a flat ride of the same length.


-- 
-- Anne Paulson

My hovercraft is full of eels

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Re: [RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread Dan Abelson

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 2:19 PM, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks all for your replies and advice!  I agree that it's personal
 and individual, and ultimately the choice is up to me.  It's
 comforting to hear from you all that there's not a lot of difference
 in the way the ride feels between 700c and 650b.  I'm guessing that
 the 54 didn't feel right to me because the frame was a little smaller
 than what I wanted (forcing the stem and seatpost to be higher than
 I'm used to).  A lot of the perfect fit, I agree, will be getting the
 right saddle, pedals, bars, stem -- the little stuff that gets tweaked
 along the way.

 I'll use this bike mostly for commuting, but with some longer rides
 and some European inn-to-inn tours.  I imagine I'll choose tires
 between 32 and 38.  The bike will stay on the pavement most of the
 time.  I'm in the Bay Area now, but getting ready to move to Berlin
 soon, so I probably won't have much a chance to take it on the famed
 California fire trails before I go.

 I think that the 55 is probably the way to go, if only because it will
 ease my paranoia about getting stuck in rural Belorussia with a broken
 rim. As for toe-overlap, I'm not too worried about that, since it's
 rarely been a problem for me so far.

 It's good to hear that wheel size alone probably wasn't the issue.
 This will be my only nice bike for the next several years, but if
 the budget expands a few years from now, I'll definitely consider
 adding a 650b to the line-up.

 Thanks again for your help!


I have one data point to add.  I have an 80cm PBH and ride a 55cm AHH
(it currently has 700 x37 tires).  It fits well but I personally would
not want to go any bigger.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

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Re: [RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread omnigrid

one solution: cut the chain by 2/3 or so (length of a mini u-lock). carry in
pannier/handlebar bag/etc.
find a shop with a plasma cutter and give 'em a 12 pack of something tasty.

these guys will cut the chain to size, if requested:
http://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/product_info.php?products_id=54osCsid=84c016be71edc6bb9c1b14ae333a43a3

On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 7:44 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

Those hardened chains are pretty tough to cut. After the Portland
NAHBS there was a video demonstrating how hard it is to cut thick
chain with bolt cutters. Some of the wild and crazy Portlanders
chained their bikes on a barricade or something the hall managers
wanted to keep clear. The video shows a security guard with big
honking bolt cutters cutting through some U-Locks as though they were
butter. When he gets to the hardened chain he huffs and puffs but
cannot blow the chain apart.

The down side to hardened chain of course is their weight. Your
solution is an elegant one, especially if you leave your bike
frequently some place where there is not a lot of competition at the
rack. I've thought of doing the same here in Chicago. It would be
great to have that level of protection without having to lug the chain
and lock around. Problem is unless I beat other riders to the rack,
my chain will be under the wheels of a bunch of other bikes and I
would have to collect it and go looking for another lock.

On Jan 26, 5:07 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
I've got various locks of various degrees of security scattered about
the larger metropolitan area, one of which is a 3' length of super
hard chain that I bought from True Value for less than $12, plus
shackle protected lock (it has bolsters that slip over the shackle to
make it hard for a bolt cutter to fit), all covered in a
(multi-patched!) section of innertube.

The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
thievery?

(The lock is currently looped and lock'd around the pedestal of an
outdoor table at our church and the lock mech has successfully
resisted about 12 mos of dirt, water, etc. -- for many months it was
looped about a tree so that the lock itself was partially buried in
the surrounding dirt.)

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-26 Thread doug peterson

Holy rack mounts, Batman!  Just back from my wanderings  of course
can't resist a thread with Atlantis in the subject line (really wish
I'd had mine with me but that's another story).  IIRC, GP specs the
bike and the vendor builds it to spec.  A brazed joint can only be so
good and both Waterford and Toyo have proven they pass the test.
Therefore, there should be no functional difference between the two
builders, and a frame from either should perform equally well.  Riv is
pretty careful about the quality of their vendors so spend your energy
on which Riv meets your needs and don't stress who built it.  If in
doubt, just get an Atlantis.

dougP

On Jan 26, 5:08 pm, jose jose.cor...@gmail.com wrote:
 It comes down to your aesthetic sense. If you are not that much into
 the details of how things look, then it doesn't matter because quality-
 wise they are identical.

 But if you do care about the details, then I think you'd have to look
 at the specific bike to determine what you like more.

 Totally subjective.

 I do remember a Grant post mentioning he really liked some of the
 details on the last run of Toyo Atlantis. Here it is:

 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/knothole_post/196

 I have both a 2006 and one of these last-run 2010 Atlantii.  I like
 both (a lot), but I overall I prefer the look of the 2006.  For
 example, I like the curvey lugs of the 2006 more. Many people have
 said they prefer the newer, pointy lugs.

 Tomato, jitomate.

 On Jan 26, 3:52 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Current Atlantis production is Waterford. Up until last year (I think), they
  came from Toyo. Toyo was the only source for Rambouillet, Saluki and
  Romulus/Redwood. AHH was blended as you suggest, and is now all Waterford. I
  think if you get them to take an order for a Legolas, it would come from
  Waterford as well. The website currently shows Bombadil, Rodeo, Atlantis, 
  and
  Hilsen as US made (Waterford). Hunqapillar, Gomez, Foy, Amos,  Simpleone as
  Taiwan made (Maxway)

  
  From: Ryan ryter...@mts.net
  To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Wed, January 26, 2011 12:19:28 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

  As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
  sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

  My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
  particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
  this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
  Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

  That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
  and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
  tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

  Regards,
  Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

  On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:

   How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
   from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
   kickstand plate and range of sizes.

   In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
   builder?

  --
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Re: [RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread Fai Mao

I don't know about Russia. I do know that you can't buy 650b tires in Asia
unless you have them imported yourself. If I had it to do over again I'd
have upped my Sam Hillborne by a size to get the 700c wheel

On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 4:19 AM, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks all for your replies and advice! I agree that it's personal
and individual, and ultimately the choice is up to me. It's
comforting to hear from you all that there's not a lot of difference
in the way the ride feels between 700c and 650b. I'm guessing that
the 54 didn't feel right to me because the frame was a little smaller
than what I wanted (forcing the stem and seatpost to be higher than
I'm used to). A lot of the perfect fit, I agree, will be getting the
right saddle, pedals, bars, stem -- the little stuff that gets tweaked
along the way.

I'll use this bike mostly for commuting, but with some longer rides
and some European inn-to-inn tours. I imagine I'll choose tires
between 32 and 38. The bike will stay on the pavement most of the
time. I'm in the Bay Area now, but getting ready to move to Berlin
soon, so I probably won't have much a chance to take it on the famed
California fire trails before I go.

I think that the 55 is probably the way to go, if only because it will
ease my paranoia about getting stuck in rural Belorussia with a broken
rim. As for toe-overlap, I'm not too worried about that, since it's
rarely been a problem for me so far.

It's good to hear that wheel size alone probably wasn't the issue.
This will be my only nice bike for the next several years, but if
the budget expands a few years from now, I'll definitely consider
adding a 650b to the line-up.

Thanks again for your help!

--
Fai Mao
The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-26 Thread Bob

The current Riv Atlantis is built by Waterford.  My original question
concerned whether, excluding paint, braze ons and probably tubing, the
Waterford is identical to the Toyo build. This is not questionaing the
obviously excellent Riv quality, but about subtle specifics of
interest to velohistorians an bike nerds.  The question remains
unanswered.  For example, are their differences between the acclaimed
Toyo and current Waterford forks?  What about subtle bends in the
chainstay and other tubing?  There must be things that Toyo and
Waterford do uniquely well.  What are they?

On Jan 26, 1:19 pm, Ryan ryter...@mts.net wrote:
 As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
 sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
 particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
 this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
 Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

 That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
 and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
 tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

 Regards,
 Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

 On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:



  How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
  from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
  kickstand plate and range of sizes.

  In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
  builder?

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[RBW] Marathon Supremes

I got out for a 60 mile ride on the Hilsen today. It was my first ride
on Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (700x35) which I purchased from Riv last
week. What a fantastic tire! I love them. Just a really really good
tire. They seemed to ride as nicely as Paselas but are hopefully
sturdier. I also like that they have a reflective strip. I really have
grown to love Schwalbe tires.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Riv'ish trails in Berkeley Hills/Tilden?