date:20120522

I agree with Tim that for the most part grease is grease.  The 
differentiator for me is smell.  Everything I've ever used that was 
automotive smelled really bad to me.  I'm satisfied with the dark green 
Park brand, which is suspiciously similar to the dark green Phil brand.  

I was not pleased at how the Lanolube that Riv sold seemed to get really 
gummy over time.  I had used it for seatpost and stem installation, and it 
was like tacky glue after 18 months or so.  I'm back to grease in those 
areas.  

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 6:29:07 AM UTC-7, Tim McNamara wrote:



 On May 22, 2012, at 5:44 AM, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote: 

  I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm 
  Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my 
  girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do 
  you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks, 
  etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and 
  Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that. 
  BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the 
  new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want 
  the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease 
  right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be 
  great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or 
  another except deraillers. Thanks all. 

 Grease pretty much be grease.  Any automotive, marine or bicycle grease 
 is fine.  I use Phil because I have a lot of it.  I do think that white 
 greases don't last as long.   

 Now that I think of it, I don't grease much stuff any more.  I have sealed 
 bearing wheels, BBs, headsets on most of my bikes.  I'd rather ride than 
 overhaul my bikes.  In the old days I overhauled my bikes once a year in 
 the winter and that was more than often enough.  Now my maintenance 
 schedule is replacing the chain when needed and wiping the crud off the 
 frame once in a while. 



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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread Andy Smitty Schmidt

+1 on the grease is grease front. 


On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 3:44:15 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:

 I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm 
 Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my 
 girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do 
 you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks, 
 etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and 
 Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that. 
 BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the 
 new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want 
 the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease 
 right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be 
 great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or 
 another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread Peter Morgano

I like park grease since it is sold at my local REI...if they sold
something else I would probably just buy that too though park stuff has a
non-automotive smell which is nice.  Nothing has as satisfying of a smell
as frame saver though, I could wear that like cologne, haha.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 1:55 PM, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.comwrote:

 +1 on the grease is grease front.


 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 3:44:15 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:

 I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm
 Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my
 girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do
 you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks,
 etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and
 Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that.
 BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the
 new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want
 the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease
 right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be
 great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or
 another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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[RBW] Re: Bike to school, work week

2012-05-22 Thread Frank

Cool, Addison. We have a similar thing going up here in Seattle, tying 
together Bike Trains, Middle School programs, Doughnut Rides, Greenways, 
you name it.

http://walkbikeschools.wordpress.com/

The blog is broken down by school, and the folks behind it have started to 
make some real progress. The middle school kids had 56 bikes in the cage on 
May 18th, and Bryant Elementary had 110 on the same day, with the kids all 
meeting at Top Pot doughnuts and riding to school with a Seattle PD Bicycle 
officer escort.

Riv content - there's a Glorius, a Saluki, and an All-arounder in there 
somewhere. 

On Monday, May 21, 2012 8:33:06 PM UTC-7, Addison wrote:

 Thought some might enjoy thisI helped organize an event for bike to 
 school week and we got about 60 kids out on bikes.  Even had a police 
 escort for parts which the kids went crazy for.   

 Riv content, I rode my allrounder and there is a little glimpse of it.   


 http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/05/bike-to-work-school-and-fun-wrap-up.html
  

 Regards, 
 Addison 

 Sent from my iPad

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread Brian Campbell

I too used the Park grease. A tub lasted me 5 years. I built many bikes and 
repacked many wheels. Good stuff.

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 2:04:26 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 I like park grease since it is sold at my local REI...if they sold 
 something else I would probably just buy that too though park stuff has a 
 non-automotive smell which is nice.  Nothing has as satisfying of a smell 
 as frame saver though, I could wear that like cologne, haha. 

 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 1:55 PM, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.comwrote:

 +1 on the grease is grease front.  


 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 3:44:15 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote: 

 I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm 
 Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my 
 girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do 
 you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks, 
 etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and 
 Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that. 
 BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the 
 new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want 
 the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease 
 right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be 
 great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or 
 another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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[RBW] Re: Rain Riding and Wood Fenders

2012-05-22 Thread Allan in Portland

Yes indeed. Congratulations Brian.

-Allan

On Monday, May 21, 2012 11:41:20 PM UTC-7, Rob wrote:

 *Really* looking nice Brian! Beautiful build.


 Rob in Seattle 


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[RBW] Re: Thank you

2012-05-22 Thread islaysteve

Manny, Congratulations on the new bike!  You are an inspiration and I'm so 
glad that got your stolen Riv replaced.  Kudos to Grant and the gang for 
making this happen.  I too look forward to your posts and photos.
 
Is that a 48 Sam?  I recall that you had a 51 Bleriot, which is what I 
have.  I also contemplated getting a 48 Sam, thinking that to be the size 
best for me.  Can you compare the fit between the two bikes?  Any 
difference that you can feel?   Enjoy your bike as only you can!  Cheers, 
Steve
 

 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 58 Blue Rambouillet, $1400 OBO Shipped

2012-05-22 Thread Minh

From my documents, for a 58cm ram, so height is 82.1 cm. 

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Re: [RBW] Pari-Motos and flats (was Re: New 650B conversion)

2012-05-22 Thread Steve Palincsar

On Tue, 2012-05-22 at 08:08 -0700, Taylor wrote:
 Can you compare the performance of the Lierres to the Pari-Motos or
 even Hetres?

Not really.  Hetres don't fit on the Kogswell, so that comparison is out
(that bike is too different from the MAP for tire comparisons to be
valid) and it's been since before the Mineral WV earthquake that I've
ridden the PMs.



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[RBW] Re: Silver Shifter and/or Front Derailleur Issue(s)

2012-05-22 Thread Lynne Fitz

and finished a 400k on Sunday morning.  Still working perfectly.

On May 18, 2:09 pm, Lynne Fitz fitzb...@comcast.net wrote:
 My rear Silver shifter was intermittently doing that to me, always, of
 course, at a Really Bad Time.  It was doing this from day 1.  I
 tightened it down.  I tightened it down.  It would still
 intermittently just lose it, even when it was really tight.  Replaced
 the washers.  Same thing.

 I now have a replacement Silver rear shifter (through the seller).
 Rode a century a couple weekends ago, no issues.  I am told it is a
 rare problem, but there you have it.

 Lynne F

 On May 18, 4:24 am, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:







  I use bees wax on my silver bar ends and find I still need to retighten the
  D ring about once a ride, maybe every 20 miles or so.  Has anyone tried
  lock tite?

  michael

  On Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:07:03 PM UTC-4, Noel M. wrote:

   Zack, thank you for your input.  I'll keep that in mind!

   Thank you.

   On Thursday, May 17, 2012 9:49:32 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

   and if it still slips, take it apart and put some beeswax on the threaded
   bolt thing.

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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread rcnute

I use the Phil grease.  I figure I'm not running a shop so I can buy
fancy expensive grease.  Tried white lithium but it tends to get dry
and tacky.

Ryan

On May 22, 3:44 am, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote:
 I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm
 Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my
 girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do
 you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks,
 etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and
 Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that.
 BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the
 new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want
 the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease
 right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be
 great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or
 another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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[RBW] New route for today's commute

2012-05-22 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J

New route for today's commute, winding back and forth over old footbridges 
across the Brandywine Creek.  Abandoned DuPont mill/factory buildings in back 
ground.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250981952/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250980730/in/photostream

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[RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread Patrick in VT

On May 21, 5:42 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for that tip.  I'll probably do the wheelbuild and the tire
 installation at the bike shop where I used to work.  That'll give me access
 to a burly compressor.

a compressor definitely helps, but I've had good luck with a track
pump and soapy water (rims are UST though, so that probably helped
seating).  it's a simple process and shouldn't be messy at all if the
tire and rim work together.  just don't bug out if they don't seal up/
hold pressure right away.  If the sidewalls on the b-lines are porous,
it might take a day or two for the sealant to do its thing.

I can't imagine using tubes again on my MTB.  it's just a better way
to roll.

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[RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

The thing that I'm not clear on is what actually is happening to the 
sealant goo?  Is it hardening into a rubber coating?  Is the entire inside 
of the tire and rimstrip coated?  So when you remove the tire when it's 
worn out, you are destroying that seal by ripping it apart.  What about the 
puddle of extra sealant at the end?  If you leave that pooled in the 
bottom, does that make an offcenter lump that shakes the workstand when you 
spin the wheel, same as a reflector?  I'd hate that.  Or does it stay 
liquid and slosh around forever?  Or does it magically go away?  If I do 
mount tires again, I need more sealant, right?  At some point I imagine the 
weight of a few sealing jobs could exceed the weight of a tube.  Is that 
crazy talk?

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:

 On May 21, 5:42 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Thanks for that tip.  I'll probably do the wheelbuild and the tire 
  installation at the bike shop where I used to work.  That'll give me 
 access 
  to a burly compressor. 

 a compressor definitely helps, but I've had good luck with a track 
 pump and soapy water (rims are UST though, so that probably helped 
 seating).  it's a simple process and shouldn't be messy at all if the 
 tire and rim work together.  just don't bug out if they don't seal up/ 
 hold pressure right away.  If the sidewalls on the b-lines are porous, 
 it might take a day or two for the sealant to do its thing. 

 I can't imagine using tubes again on my MTB.  it's just a better way 
 to roll.

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RE: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J

Stupid (or at least uninformed) question: What's the advantage of tubeless?

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 4:38 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into 
tubeless

The thing that I'm not clear on is what actually is happening to the sealant 
goo?  Is it hardening into a rubber coating?  Is the entire inside of the tire 
and rimstrip coated?  So when you remove the tire when it's worn out, you are 
destroying that seal by ripping it apart.  What about the puddle of extra 
sealant at the end?  If you leave that pooled in the bottom, does that make an 
offcenter lump that shakes the workstand when you spin the wheel, same as a 
reflector?  I'd hate that.  Or does it stay liquid and slosh around forever?  
Or does it magically go away?  If I do mount tires again, I need more sealant, 
right?  At some point I imagine the weight of a few sealing jobs could exceed 
the weight of a tube.  Is that crazy talk?

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:
On May 21, 5:42 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for that tip.  I'll probably do the wheelbuild and the tire
 installation at the bike shop where I used to work.  That'll give me access
 to a burly compressor.

a compressor definitely helps, but I've had good luck with a track
pump and soapy water (rims are UST though, so that probably helped
seating).  it's a simple process and shouldn't be messy at all if the
tire and rim work together.  just don't bug out if they don't seal up/
hold pressure right away.  If the sidewalls on the b-lines are porous,
it might take a day or two for the sealant to do its thing.

I can't imagine using tubes again on my MTB.  it's just a better way
to roll.

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unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this 
message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
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or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
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This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

I've had numerous people tell me that once you try tubeless you never go 
back.  The highlights according to them have been ride quality, flat 
resistance and light weight.  I think the theory is your tires are much 
more supple because there's less material holding the air in.  I don't 
quite get where the flat resistance comes from in terms of punctures, 
unless the goo stays gooey and it's kind of a self-sealing thing.  I think 
pinch flats become nearly impossible.  Light weight I think is something 
like 80-100g of savings.  

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:38:57 PM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  Stupid (or at least uninformed) question: What's the advantage of 
 tubeless?

  --
 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 22, 2012 4:38 PM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a 
 foray into tubeless

 The thing that I'm not clear on is what actually is happening to the 
 sealant goo?  Is it hardening into a rubber coating?  Is the entire inside 
 of the tire and rimstrip coated?  So when you remove the tire when it's 
 worn out, you are destroying that seal by ripping it apart.  What about the 
 puddle of extra sealant at the end?  If you leave that pooled in the 
 bottom, does that make an offcenter lump that shakes the workstand when you 
 spin the wheel, same as a reflector?  I'd hate that.  Or does it stay 
 liquid and slosh around forever?  Or does it magically go away?  If I do 
 mount tires again, I need more sealant, right?  At some point I imagine the 
 weight of a few sealing jobs could exceed the weight of a tube.  Is that 
 crazy talk?

 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote: 

 On May 21, 5:42 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Thanks for that tip.  I'll probably do the wheelbuild and the tire 
  installation at the bike shop where I used to work.  That'll give me 
 access 
  to a burly compressor. 

 a compressor definitely helps, but I've had good luck with a track 
 pump and soapy water (rims are UST though, so that probably helped 
 seating).  it's a simple process and shouldn't be messy at all if the 
 tire and rim work together.  just don't bug out if they don't seal up/ 
 hold pressure right away.  If the sidewalls on the b-lines are porous, 
 it might take a day or two for the sealant to do its thing. 

 I can't imagine using tubes again on my MTB.  it's just a better way 
 to roll.

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[RBW] Re: 57 Romulus anyone?

2012-05-22 Thread Aaron Thomas

I sometimes toy with the idea of selling my 57 Romulus, which is a bit 
large for me. But any such sale would be contingent on finding a 55 Legolas 
or 55 Romulus. If you have a line on one of those, drop me a line.

Aaron

On Monday, May 21, 2012 9:27:49 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:

 Anyone looking to part with same?  Thanks! 

 Ryan

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

If this is a stupid question, count me in. I'd like to know more,
mostly 'cuz uv goatheads. Can someone with experience itemize the
Pro's and Con's?

In particular: I used Slime in regular tubes and found it horrible: it
would seal most, but not all, goathead punctures; but if a bigger
sharpie got into the tube -- say, a nail -- then, watch out: slime
spray mess SNAFU. And try cleaning and patching a be-Slimed tube. Some
Slime clones are better, but not enough better, for me, anyway.

What is required for tubeless? Can I use it with my 44 mm wide SnoCat
SLs with 2 dozen cutout holes? See: http://tinyurl.com/chrqaj7

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 2:38 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 Stupid (or at least uninformed) question: What's the advantage of tubeless?

 

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Re: [RBW] New route for today's commute

Obviously, I missed the boat, but what **is** that saddebag? That is
bigger than my Hoss!! Looks like the trunk of a 1964 Buick! Cubic
inches or litres?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/curtisperry/5464649144/

The rest of the bike is nice, too.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 1:55 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 New route for today's commute, winding back and forth over old footbridges
 across the Brandywine Creek.  Abandoned DuPont mill/factory buildings in
 back ground.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250981952/in/photostream

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250980730/in/photostream

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread David Yu Greenblatt

I am just getting back into tubeless after a long hiatus, and I am no
expert. In the past month I got a new 29er MTB with tubeless wheels (the
rims on my old MTB were not tubeless compatible) and I also mounted Hetres
on a new wheelset that has Stan's rims using Stan's tape and Stan's
sealant. My understanding is that some of the sealant forms a solid layer
of latex on the inside of the tire and some stays liquid. Eventually the
liquid will evaporate, but it does not leave a heavy lump of latex in the
tire in my experience. You may have to add more Stan's to your tires once
or twice per year to maintain the liquid flat-sealing component. I think
Stan's sealant is latex particles suspended in an ammonia solution with
some secret ingredients.

I have not had any problems with my tubeless Hetres so far, but I don't
have many miles on them yet. One tip for mounting with a floor pump is to
try to seat the beads of the tire as peripherally as possible on the
shoulders on the rim by pinching and pulling and lifting with your thumbs
before you start pumping air through the valve.

I am interested in tubeless Pari-Motos since in theory that would maintain
the lightweight and supple qualities of the tire while improving flat
resistance significantly. However I don't think I can safety try using my
new wheelset with sub-350 gram Stan's rims because I have heard they have a
40 PSI upper limit. I am hoping that it may be possible with the new
Pacenti or Velocity A23 rims.

- David G, Madison WI



On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 3:37 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 The thing that I'm not clear on is what actually is happening to the
 sealant goo?  Is it hardening into a rubber coating?  Is the entire inside
 of the tire and rimstrip coated?  So when you remove the tire when it's
 worn out, you are destroying that seal by ripping it apart.  What about the
 puddle of extra sealant at the end?  If you leave that pooled in the
 bottom, does that make an offcenter lump that shakes the workstand when you
 spin the wheel, same as a reflector?  I'd hate that.  Or does it stay
 liquid and slosh around forever?  Or does it magically go away?  If I do
 mount tires again, I need more sealant, right?  At some point I imagine the
 weight of a few sealing jobs could exceed the weight of a tube.  Is that
 crazy talk?


 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 1:10:25 PM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:

 On May 21, 5:42 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  Thanks for that tip.  I'll probably do the wheelbuild and the tire
  installation at the bike shop where I used to work.  That'll give me
 access
  to a burly compressor.

 a compressor definitely helps, but I've had good luck with a track
 pump and soapy water (rims are UST though, so that probably helped
 seating).  it's a simple process and shouldn't be messy at all if the
 tire and rim work together.  just don't bug out if they don't seal up/
 hold pressure right away.  If the sidewalls on the b-lines are porous,
 it might take a day or two for the sealant to do its thing.

 I can't imagine using tubes again on my MTB.  it's just a better way
 to roll.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal strike and platform pedals

Thank you Grant.  I might be ordering a set of King Grip pedals soon to
give them a try -- I did ride them on your Hunqapillar bike the last time I
was there, and IIRC they supported my feet well.  And in the meantime, I'll
keep trying to retrain myself. :-)


On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 8:20 PM, Grant Petersen gep71...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree with all...but happen to have micro-knowledge about some
 particulars. The Grip King pedal has the best clearance of any pedal
 we sell...was designed to win and does. Much of this is obvioius, but
 here it is all at once: Pedal clearance is only a function of
 how far the pedal sticks out (related to crank Q-Factor, of course)
 crank length
 pedal cage height
 bottom bracket height---which itself comes from frame drop and wheel
 radius (radius minus drop is bb height).

 The CPSC Consumer Products Safety Commission requires (or used to; I
 dunno if it's changed) 25-degrees of lean before contact, and we have
 a spreadsheet that lets us plug in any combination with any of the
 pedals we offer, and so...a Roll-y Pol-y* tire on an A. Homer Hilsen
 with 175mm cranks and MKS Touring pedals doesn't quite make it, but
 once you're up to Jack Brown territory and any pedal other than the
 Touring, then all's well.

 But---as everybody has said--it's mostly a matter of learning the
 limits and pedaling within 'em.

 On May 19, 2:46 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
  So, I've been slowly warming to this idea of using platform pedals.  I
  actually compromised and went half way, using cream colored PowerGrip
  straps that Rivendell was selling at the time and the MKS touring pedals
  that they sell.  This setup works fairly well for me and I'm starting to
  prefer it over having to wear dedicated shoes, even though I was wearing
  Shimano sandals.  That said, after years of using tiny little Frog
 pedals I
  got accustomed to how much cornering clearance I had and don't remember
 the
  last time that I experienced pedal strike [except for one time on my
 fixed
  gear].  Now, though, I seem to do it at least once per ride, even on
 turns
  that seem like nothing whatsoever!  Worse, a few times I've grabbed the
 toe
  of my sandal and flipped it down! (I sure hope I don't break a toe or
 tear
  my awesome Chaco sandals!)
 
  So, now I'm wondering... are there other paltform pedals that give a
 little
  more ground clearance? Is it just something I'll have to learn to deal
  with?  Are the King Grips any better [for clearance]?  How about the RMX
  sneaker pedal with its corners rounded off?
 
  How long did it take you (if you converted to platforms) to become
  accustomed to the reduced clearance?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal strike and platform pedals

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thank you Grant.  I might be ordering a set of King Grip pedals soon to
 give them a try -- I did ride them on your Hunqapillar bike the last time I
 was there, and IIRC they supported my feet well.  And in the meantime, I'll
 keep trying to retrain myself. :-)


By your, I meant the showroom one... didn't grab your personal bike. :-)

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Re: [RBW] New route for today's commute

2012-05-22 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J

Thanks, Patrick. 

Nuthin' but a Sackville Saddlesack Large. 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bassl.htm. Around 30 liters. It's a great bag 
if you've got a rear rack. Very stable, HUGE and very usable capacity. The 
pockets on the front of the bag are readily accessible while riding. Very 
useful, and built like a brick shoot house. {nice auto spell}
Sent from my iPhone

On May 22, 2012, at 5:35 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Obviously, I missed the boat, but what **is** that saddebag? That is
 bigger than my Hoss!! Looks like the trunk of a 1964 Buick! Cubic
 inches or litres?
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/curtisperry/5464649144/
 
 The rest of the bike is nice, too.
 
 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 1:55 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
 thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 New route for today's commute, winding back and forth over old footbridges
 across the Brandywine Creek.  Abandoned DuPont mill/factory buildings in
 back ground.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250981952/in/photostream
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/7250980730/in/photostream
 
 --
 
 
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 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained
 in this message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used,
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 Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii)
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -
 
 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 
 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
 
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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread Joe Bernard

Phil. Because it's a cool company, and their stuff works.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.
 

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:33:32 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:

 I use the Phil grease.  I figure I'm not running a shop so I can buy 
 fancy expensive grease.  Tried white lithium but it tends to get dry 
 and tacky. 

 Ryan 

 On May 22, 3:44 am, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote: 
  I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm 
  Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my 
  girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do 
  you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks, 
  etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and 
  Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that. 
  BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the 
  new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want 
  the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease 
  right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be 
  great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or 
  another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal strike and platform pedals

2012-05-22 Thread Michael Hechmer

Rex, I rode on Frogs almost exclusively for the better part of a decade and 
loved them because they gave my knees lots of freedom while keeping my feet 
(usually in Keen Commuters) firmly on the pedal, and they allowed me to 
pedal through fast corners when I felt I wanted or needed to, as when 
cycling on narrow lanes, roundabouts, etc. After foot surgery I decided it 
would be wise if I varied my pedal choice.  I tried the grip kings for one 
winter but never really got to liking them.  My foot slid around on the 
pedal in ways that was disconcerting.  Then I sprung for a pair of the 
White Ind. Urban Pedal and have really liked them.  They are about 1 
narrower than the grip king so provide better corner clearance.  I ride 
them with the Bruce Gordon strapless toe clip and they do a  decent job of 
keeping my feet in place.  Two downsides - the BG clips wont feel good with 
sandals, and the price, which is extravagant.  But the pedals are a work of 
art.  BTW, if you order them together from BG he gives a discount, but his 
large is a little tight for my size 13 New Balance sneaks. 

Still love the frogs.  

Michael

Michael

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 6:34:18 PM UTC-4, Rex Kerr wrote:

 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thank you Grant.  I might be ordering a set of King Grip pedals soon to 
 give them a try -- I did ride them on your Hunqapillar bike the last time I 
 was there, and IIRC they supported my feet well.  And in the meantime, I'll 
 keep trying to retrain myself. :-)
  

 By your, I meant the showroom one... didn't grab your personal bike. :-)


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[RBW] Re: TRP Brake Levers?

2012-05-22 Thread Alex Moll

I love them. Thought they looked goofy and gimmicky when I first saw them - 
something a Klingon would design. I splurged for the drillium version, 
because the look grew on me. They work great, and are the most comfortable 
levers I've ever laid my large hands on.

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[RBW] Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

Questions summarized without all of the rambling at the end, if you want to
just jump to the meat of this long post. :-)

When I built up my AHH I was trying to reproduce the feeling of a bike that
I'd recently crashed that had been my favorite to date.  Unfortunately, I
think that I overlooked some important details, that, while I knew about
them, weren't prominent enough in my mind.  For that reason, I'm having
difficulty getting really comfortable on the AHH, so it's time for a change.

   - On the Schwinn I had used Nashbar Mustache bars.  Wanting to recreate
   the same feeling, I did the same on the AHH.  Problem is, I'd forgotten
   that they didn't have the wider ones in stock when I built the Schwinn, so
   I bought a wider bar for the AHH, giving me a bigger bar with longer reach.


   - The AHH has a longer top-tube, by about 1 cm.


   - The Nitto stem (forget which one, it's the one they used to sell like
   the Dirt Drop, but with 25.4 mm clamp) has a slightly longer reach than the
   original stem, plus I'm not really liking the aesthetic.

*etc*... all adding up to about 3 or 4 cm further reach, and I had already
been stretched to my maximum comfortable position on the Schwinn [I have
long legs relative to my torso].  The wider bars also mean that the aft
position near the bar-end shifters doesn't raise me up much, doesn't change
the angle of my back from the hood position, and seems to compress the area
between my shoulders.


*So... my questions are:*

How many hand positions on the Albatross bar?  Are the forward positions on
the flats and around the bends usable?

Do you find the Albatross bars sufficient for full 100 mile century rides?

How much shorter is the reach on the Albatross bar *vs*. the
Nashbar mustache bar?  Or, alternatively *vs*. the Nitto version, which I
know is different, but at least similar.

Do you tend to install Albatross bars higher than mustache bars?  I already
have storage problems at work [no longer able to keep it outside of my
cube, now under the raised section of my desk] and can only spare about 1
of additional height.

For reference:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/5934743783/in/photostream
http://twowheels.us/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/0226091728.jpg

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

2012-05-22 Thread rcnute

The Albatross is great, good for long rides and will absolutely help
if reach is too long (because they don't extend nearly as far) or bars
are too low (because they have approx. 2cm of upsweep).

Ryan

On May 22, 4:04 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
Questions summarized without all of the rambling at the end, if you want to
just jump to the meat of this long post. :-)

When I built up my AHH I was trying to reproduce the feeling of a bike that
I'd recently crashed that had been my favorite to date. Unfortunately, I
think that I overlooked some important details, that, while I knew about
them, weren't prominent enough in my mind. For that reason, I'm having
difficulty getting really comfortable on the AHH, so it's time for a change.

- On the Schwinn I had used Nashbar Mustache bars. Wanting to recreate
the same feeling, I did the same on the AHH. Problem is, I'd forgotten
that they didn't have the wider ones in stock when I built the Schwinn, so
I bought a wider bar for the AHH, giving me a bigger bar with longer reach.

- The AHH has a longer top-tube, by about 1 cm.

- The Nitto stem (forget which one, it's the one they used to sell like
the Dirt Drop, but with 25.4 mm clamp) has a slightly longer reach than the
original stem, plus I'm not really liking the aesthetic.

*etc*... all adding up to about 3 or 4 cm further reach, and I had already
been stretched to my maximum comfortable position on the Schwinn [I have
long legs relative to my torso]. The wider bars also mean that the aft
position near the bar-end shifters doesn't raise me up much, doesn't change
the angle of my back from the hood position, and seems to compress the area
between my shoulders.

*So... my questions are:*

How many hand positions on the Albatross bar? Are the forward positions on
the flats and around the bends usable?

Do you find the Albatross bars sufficient for full 100 mile century rides?

How much shorter is the reach on the Albatross bar *vs*. the
Nashbar mustache bar? Or, alternatively *vs*. the Nitto version, which I
know is different, but at least similar.

Do you tend to install Albatross bars higher than mustache bars? I already
have storage problems at work [no longer able to keep it outside of my
cube, now under the raised section of my desk] and can only spare about 1
of additional height.

For
reference:http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/5934743783/in/photostreamhttp://twowheels.us/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/0226091728.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

2012-05-22 Thread Peter Morgano

Bosco Bars, not as pretty but will have more positions and more rise. I
have albas and am making the switch.
On May 22, 2012 7:07 PM, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

The Albatross is great, good for long rides and will absolutely help
if reach is too long (because they don't extend nearly as far) or bars
are too low (because they have approx. 2cm of upsweep).

Ryan

On May 22, 4:04 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
Questions summarized without all of the rambling at the end, if you want
to
just jump to the meat of this long post. :-)

When I built up my AHH I was trying to reproduce the feeling of a bike
that
I'd recently crashed that had been my favorite to date. Unfortunately, I
think that I overlooked some important details, that, while I knew about
them, weren't prominent enough in my mind. For that reason, I'm having
difficulty getting really comfortable on the AHH, so it's time for a
change.

- On the Schwinn I had used Nashbar Mustache bars. Wanting to
recreate
the same feeling, I did the same on the AHH. Problem is, I'd
forgotten
that they didn't have the wider ones in stock when I built the
Schwinn, so
I bought a wider bar for the AHH, giving me a bigger bar with longer
reach.

- The AHH has a longer top-tube, by about 1 cm.

- The Nitto stem (forget which one, it's the one they used to sell
like
the Dirt Drop, but with 25.4 mm clamp) has a slightly longer reach
than the
original stem, plus I'm not really liking the aesthetic.

*etc*... all adding up to about 3 or 4 cm further reach, and I had
already
been stretched to my maximum comfortable position on the Schwinn [I have
long legs relative to my torso]. The wider bars also mean that the aft
position near the bar-end shifters doesn't raise me up much, doesn't
change
the angle of my back from the hood position, and seems to compress the
area
between my shoulders.

*So... my questions are:*

How many hand positions on the Albatross bar? Are the forward positions
on
the flats and around the bends usable?

Do you find the Albatross bars sufficient for full 100 mile century
rides?

How much shorter is the reach on the Albatross bar *vs*. the
Nashbar mustache bar? Or, alternatively *vs*. the Nitto version, which I
know is different, but at least similar.

Do you tend to install Albatross bars higher than mustache bars? I
already
have storage problems at work [no longer able to keep it outside of my
cube, now under the raised section of my desk] and can only spare about
1
of additional height.

For reference:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rexkerr/5934743783/in/photostreamhttp://twowheels.us/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/0226091728.jpg

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[RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread Patrick in VT

On May 22, 6:23 pm, David Yu Greenblatt
david.yu.greenbl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am interested in tubeless Pari-Motos since in theory that would maintain
 the lightweight and supple qualities of the tire while improving flat
 resistance significantly. However I don't think I can safety try using my
 new wheelset with sub-350 gram Stan's rims because I have heard they have a
 40 PSI upper limit. I am hoping that it may be possible with the new
 Pacenti or Velocity A23 rims.

Let us know how it goes if you try the Pari-Moto tubeless.  those have
a very thin/supple sidewall and find they can get a little squirrely
at lower pressures if pushed hard - I'd be concerned about that tire
folding or burping air if I ran it tubeless at a pressure I like.  I
think I probably just prefer stiffer sidewalls (not necessarily UST
stiff, but stiffer) for tubeless applications.

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[RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread Patrick in VT

On May 22, 4:47 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 The highlights according to them have been ride quality, flat
 resistance and light weight.

and traction - with tubeless, you can run very low pressures without
the same risk of pinch flats, which gives superior traction on loose,
uneven terrain/dirt.  that's why it's so popular with mountain bikers.
it's also the reason why cyclocrossers love tubulars.

but yeah, for road use, ride quality and flat resistance would be the
key benefits.

I actually just got back from a MTB ride and happened to spray a bit
of Stans after clipping a rock.  nice little 3mm cut ...sealed right
up.  neat.

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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread Frank Brose

What Joe is saying and Tim speaks with the same frame of mind I have.
Buy sealed everything and ride the bike. But bottom line is if I'm
greasing something it's with Phil grease and as far as I'm concerned
it smells like bicycle grease which stinks just as well. Avoid white
grease. Grease is not suppose to be white.

On May 22, 5:57 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 Phil. Because it's a cool company, and their stuff works.

 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.



 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:33:32 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:
  I use the Phil grease.  I figure I'm not running a shop so I can buy
  fancy expensive grease.  Tried white lithium but it tends to get dry
  and tacky.

  Ryan

  On May 22, 3:44 am, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote:
   I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm
   Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my
   girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do
   you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks,
   etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and
   Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that.
   BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the
   new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want
   the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease
   right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be
   great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or
   another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New build and grease

Me, I use cheap auto wheel bearing grease from NAPA or somesuch. Nice
'n' sticky -- and cheap. Stick a cheap hobby paintbrush through a hole
in the lid for easy access for threads, nuts and such. Use your finger
for larger quantities, or pack into a grease gun.

If I buy another Phil lubricant, it will be their Tenacious Oil -- do
they still make it? Great for threads, too.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 5:43 PM, Frank Brose fkbr...@gmail.com wrote:
 What Joe is saying and Tim speaks with the same frame of mind I have.
 Buy sealed everything and ride the bike. But bottom line is if I'm
 greasing something it's with Phil grease and as far as I'm concerned
 it smells like bicycle grease which stinks just as well. Avoid white
 grease. Grease is not suppose to be white.

 On May 22, 5:57 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 Phil. Because it's a cool company, and their stuff works.

 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.



 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:33:32 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:
  I use the Phil grease.  I figure I'm not running a shop so I can buy
  fancy expensive grease.  Tried white lithium but it tends to get dry
  and tacky.

  Ryan

  On May 22, 3:44 am, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote:
   I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm
   Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my
   girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do
   you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks,
   etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and
   Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that.
   BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the
   new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want
   the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease
   right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be
   great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or
   another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

How low can you go with tubeless in 2 tires? I regularly go down to
12 with my Big Apples -- have gone lower inadvertently -- with no
pinches or creep.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 5:25 PM, Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com wrote:
 On May 22, 4:47 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 The highlights according to them have been ride quality, flat
 resistance and light weight.

 and traction - with tubeless, you can run very low pressures without
 the same risk of pinch flats, which gives superior traction on loose,
 uneven terrain/dirt.  that's why it's so popular with mountain bikers.
 it's also the reason why cyclocrossers love tubulars.

 but yeah, for road use, ride quality and flat resistance would be the
 key benefits.

 I actually just got back from a MTB ride and happened to spray a bit
 of Stans after clipping a rock.  nice little 3mm cut ...sealed right
 up.  neat.

 --
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-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

2012-05-22 Thread ted

Many years ago, on the advice of Uncle Al I bought a tube of blue
marine wheel bearing grease (like for boat trailer wheel bearings) at
a local hardware store.
By tube I mean the big cardboard things you can put in calking guns if
you want to.
It was very economical and has worked very well.



On May 22, 4:43 pm, Frank Brose fkbr...@gmail.com wrote:
 What Joe is saying and Tim speaks with the same frame of mind I have.
 Buy sealed everything and ride the bike. But bottom line is if I'm
 greasing something it's with Phil grease and as far as I'm concerned
 it smells like bicycle grease which stinks just as well. Avoid white
 grease. Grease is not suppose to be white.

 On May 22, 5:57 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:







  Phil. Because it's a cool company, and their stuff works.

  Joe Bernard
  Vallejo, CA.

  On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 12:33:32 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:
   I use the Phil grease.  I figure I'm not running a shop so I can buy
   fancy expensive grease.  Tried white lithium but it tends to get dry
   and tacky.

   Ryan

   On May 22, 3:44 am, Tim tki...@comcast.net wrote:
I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm
Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my
girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do
you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks,
etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and
Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that.
BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the
new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want
the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease
right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be
great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or
another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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[RBW] Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?

I've got a cheap aluminum rack designed with adjustable struts to
clear 29er tires and disk brakes; Sunlite is embossed on the rack
platform thus guaranteeing that it was made in Taiwan. I suppose this
is adequate -- it is rated to 50 lb -- but I wonder if there exist
nicer, chromo racks that will clear 29er tires and fenders; the strut
would have to measure ~14.5/37 cm from center of eyelet to underside
of platform; perhaps half an inch of fudge factor.

(FWIW, the adjustable struts have, I guesstimate, another 2 of
extension available --  would clear a Pugsley, etc.)

The Tubus Logo would have been fine except for Tubus's unfortunate
under-platform strut clamps that crowd tire clearance.

Exist there off the shelf racks with 50 lb capacity that have such
clearance? I'd pair it with a Tubus Tara.

Thanks

-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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[RBW] Re: Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?

Ach du scheisse! I forgot to add that me, *I* don't need a
disk-specific rack since Salsa cleverly designed the Fargo's disk
mounts to accept standard racks.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 6:12 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got a cheap aluminum rack designed with adjustable struts to
 clear 29er tires and disk brakes; Sunlite is embossed on the rack
 platform thus guaranteeing that it was made in Taiwan. I suppose this
 is adequate -- it is rated to 50 lb -- but I wonder if there exist
 nicer, chromo racks that will clear 29er tires and fenders; the strut
 would have to measure ~14.5/37 cm from center of eyelet to underside
 of platform; perhaps half an inch of fudge factor.

 (FWIW, the adjustable struts have, I guesstimate, another 2 of
 extension available --  would clear a Pugsley, etc.)

 The Tubus Logo would have been fine except for Tubus's unfortunate
 under-platform strut clamps that crowd tire clearance.

 Exist there off the shelf racks with 50 lb capacity that have such
 clearance? I'd pair it with a Tubus Tara.

 Thanks

 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory



-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

2012-05-22 Thread Jim M.

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 4:57:28 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 How low can you go with tubeless in 2 tires? I regularly go down to 
 12 with my Big Apples -- have gone lower inadvertently -- with no 
 pinches or creep. 

 I go 10 to 15 psi lower with tubeless than tubed, so that should take you 
down to negative 3 psi.

But seriously folks, ride quality, flat resistance, and traction are all 
better in my experience. 4 years of off-road riding with no flats makes me 
wish that road tubeless would advance faster than it has. I've never run 
over a nail, but I've run over plenty of goatheads. The hole seals up 
around the goathead and you can remove them at your leisure. No pinch 
flats. There is much less sealant than with slime tubes. I've heard stories 
of riders hitting big bumps and having the tire burp out sealant, but 
that's never happened to me. With Stan's, most of the sealant stays liquid, 
so, in answer to one question, you do not get a lump of congealed goo in 
the tire. It evaporates eventually, and then you add more sealant. With 
off-road use, I wear out the tire long before dried sealant adds 
significant weight. If you bash your way through rock gardens and put a big 
tear in the sidewall, Stan's won't seal, but if I'm going through terrain 
like that, I carry a spare tube and a boot.

jim m
wc ca

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

negative 3 psi would be EPIC cushy!

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 5:16:56 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:

 On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 4:57:28 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 How low can you go with tubeless in 2 tires? I regularly go down to 
 12 with my Big Apples -- have gone lower inadvertently -- with no 
 pinches or creep. 

 I go 10 to 15 psi lower with tubeless than tubed, so that should take you 
 down to negative 3 psi.

 But seriously folks, ride quality, flat resistance, and traction are all 
 better in my experience. 4 years of off-road riding with no flats makes me 
 wish that road tubeless would advance faster than it has. I've never run 
 over a nail, but I've run over plenty of goatheads. The hole seals up 
 around the goathead and you can remove them at your leisure. No pinch 
 flats. There is much less sealant than with slime tubes. I've heard stories 
 of riders hitting big bumps and having the tire burp out sealant, but 
 that's never happened to me. With Stan's, most of the sealant stays liquid, 
 so, in answer to one question, you do not get a lump of congealed goo in 
 the tire. It evaporates eventually, and then you add more sealant. With 
 off-road use, I wear out the tire long before dried sealant adds 
 significant weight. If you bash your way through rock gardens and put a big 
 tear in the sidewall, Stan's won't seal, but if I'm going through terrain 
 like that, I carry a spare tube and a boot.

 jim m
 wc ca

  


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[RBW] Re: Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?

2012-05-22 Thread ted

Wouldn't the obvious suggestion around these parts be the Nitto Big
Back Rack ( http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r4.htm ) size large?

On May 22, 5:14 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ach du scheisse! I forgot to add that me, *I* don't need a
 disk-specific rack since Salsa cleverly designed the Fargo's disk
 mounts to accept standard racks.









 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 6:12 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've got a cheap aluminum rack designed with adjustable struts to
  clear 29er tires and disk brakes; Sunlite is embossed on the rack
  platform thus guaranteeing that it was made in Taiwan. I suppose this
  is adequate -- it is rated to 50 lb -- but I wonder if there exist
  nicer, chromo racks that will clear 29er tires and fenders; the strut
  would have to measure ~14.5/37 cm from center of eyelet to underside
  of platform; perhaps half an inch of fudge factor.

  (FWIW, the adjustable struts have, I guesstimate, another 2 of
  extension available --  would clear a Pugsley, etc.)

  The Tubus Logo would have been fine except for Tubus's unfortunate
  under-platform strut clamps that crowd tire clearance.

  Exist there off the shelf racks with 50 lb capacity that have such
  clearance? I'd pair it with a Tubus Tara.

  Thanks

  --

  -
  Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
  -

  A billion stars go spinning through the night
  Blazing high above your head;
  But in you is the Presence that will be
  When all the stars are dead.

  Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, 
 ACRWhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?

I dunno, that's why I asked. Will this thing go to 14.5?

And I'd be interested to know of cheaper options -- could get a custom
and a half for that price.

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 6:20 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
 Wouldn't the obvious suggestion around these parts be the Nitto Big
 Back Rack ( http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r4.htm ) size large?


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[RBW] Re: Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?

2012-05-22 Thread Michael_S

I'd like the answer to that as well. I found this steel rack that looks
promising.

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=146_240products_id=10894zenid=018...

Looks like it would work.

~mike

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 5:12:53 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

I've got a cheap aluminum rack designed with adjustable struts to
clear 29er tires and disk brakes; Sunlite is embossed on the rack
platform thus guaranteeing that it was made in Taiwan. I suppose this
is adequate -- it is rated to 50 lb -- but I wonder if there exist
nicer, chromo racks that will clear 29er tires and fenders; the strut
would have to measure ~14.5/37 cm from center of eyelet to underside
of platform; perhaps half an inch of fudge factor.

(FWIW, the adjustable struts have, I guesstimate, another 2 of
extension available -- would clear a Pugsley, etc.)

The Tubus Logo would have been fine except for Tubus's unfortunate
under-platform strut clamps that crowd tire clearance.

Exist there off the shelf racks with 50 lb capacity that have such
clearance? I'd pair it with a Tubus Tara.

Thanks

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:

 Bosco Bars,  not as pretty but will have more positions and more rise.  I
 have albas and am making the switch.


I've been looking at those.  I'm not sure, though, whether I want more
rise.  I do like the wider fore-section though, as it seems that it'd still
allow a nice wide grip while down low to avoid the wind.  That said, it
seems that riding on the bend would also give a nice wide position when
stretched out.  I rode a bike with Albatross bars while at Rivendell HQ,
but don't remember how much space there was to do that.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sturdy rack that will clear 29 tire and fender?